This action might not be possible to undo. Are you sure you want to continue?
Several people asked about structured fabric baskets. We're guessing there must be a lot of Sew4Home fans out there with a lot of stuff they need to organize in some terrific totes. We've come through with not just one but a pretty pair: a large basket measuring 10" wide x 8" tall x 6" deep and a small companion at 8" wide x 7" tall x 5" deep. The two nest perfectly together. Wouldn't these make an awesome wedding shower gift filled with kitchen or bath goodies?! We dove into our stash for this project and came us with four beautiful Michael Miller Fabric prints that are still available through numerous outlets. Divine Damask and Dressforms are from the Black and White collection, which we originally used for a week of beautiful pillows last spring. We accent the dramatic black and white combo with Apple and Black Ta Dot - Michael Miller classics. We found Divine Damask in Black at Fabric.com, Hawthorne Threads and Emerald City Fabrics. Dressforms in black is available at Fat Quarter Shop, Fabric.com and Emerald City Fabrics. And, you can get Ta-Dot at Fabric.com and Hawthorne Threads. Our You Asked 4 It survey article is still live on the site and we still check for new comments. Please leave your idea if you haven't already.
Sewing Tools You Need
Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Memory Craft 5200) Walking foot (optional, but with all these layers, I used my Walking foot for the entire project!) New Denim needle
We found and bought our interfacing off the bolt at our local fabric store so getting ¾ yard wasn't a problem. such as fusible Fast2Fuse or Heat 'n' Bond or Pellon's sew-in heavyweight interfacing NOTE: These type of products are normally only 18"-20" wide.Fabric and Other Supplies Our fabric cut recommendations are generous to allow for fussy cutting. we used 1" in black 1 yard of wide velvet ribbon. you may need more than one package. such as fusible Fast2Fuse or Heat 'n' Bond or Pellon's sew-in heavyweight interfacing . If you have to by packaged interfacing. ½ yard of 44-45" lightweight batting: we used Kyoto Bamboo Batting from Fabric. Large Basket ½ yard of 44-45" wide fabric for the basket exterior: we used Divine Damask in Black by Michael Miller Fabrics ½ yard of 44-45" wide fabric for the basket lining and top of handles: we used Ta Dot in Apple by Michael Miller Fabrics ¼ yard of 44-45" wide fabric or scrap for back of handles: we used Ta Dot in Black by Michael Miller Fabrics ¾ yard of heavyweight fusible OR sew-in interfacing. we used 2" black velvet Small Basket ½ yard of 44-45" wide fabric for the basket exterior: we used Dressforms in Black by Michael Miller Fabrics ½ yard of 44-45" wide fabric for the basket lining: we used Ta Dot in Apple by Michael Miller Fabrics ¼ yard of 44-45" wide fabric or scrap for back of handles: we used Ta Dot in Black by Michael Miller Fabrics ¾ yard of heavyweight fusible OR sew-in interfacing.com 1 yard of wide coordinating rick rack. carefully check the amount.
fussy cut TWO 12" high x 17" wide panels. From the heavyweight interfacing. cut TWO 12" x 17" panels. 4. At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board The steps below show me assembling the large basket. fussy cut TWO 10½" high x 14" wide panels. From the back handle accent fabric (Black Ta Dot in our sample). cut the following: TWO 10½" high x 14" wide panels TWO 2½" x 10" strips 3. 2. From the fabric for the basket lining and handle tops (Apple Ta Dot in our sample). 5. From the batting. we used 1" in black Both Baskets All purpose thread in colors to best match both rick rack and fabric: we used Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP in #6920 Chartreuse and #900 Black See-through ruler Fabric pen or pencil Seam gauge Iron and ironing board Scissors or rotary cutter and mat Straight pins Getting Started Large Basket 1. cut TWO 2½" x 10" strips. 2. ½ yard of 44-45" lightweight batting: we used Kyoto Bamboo Batting from Fabric. From the fabric for the basket exterior (Black Divine Damask in our sample). Small Basket 1. cut TWO 10½" high x 14" wide panels. From the heavyweight interfacing. 5. .com 1 yard of wide coordinating rick rack. cut TWO 2½" x 10" strips. cut TWO 12" x 17" panels. cut the following: TWO 12" high x 17" wide panels TWO 2½" x 10" strips 3. From the fabric for the basket exterior (Black Dressforms in our sample). From the back handle accent fabric (Black Ta Dot in our sample). From the batting. The steps for the smaller basket are the same. cut TWO 10½" high x 14" wide panels. From the fabric for the basket lining and handle tops (Apple Ta Dot in our sample). 4.
Place a piece of interfacing against the wrong side of each exterior panel. 3.Layering the panels 1. . Align the two layers on all four sides. Pin in place. I used my Janome walking foot since I was dealing with layers of different thicknesses and types. follow your manufacturer's directions to adhere the interfacing to the fabric rather than stitching as I did. being very careful to make sure both pieces are super flat. 2. staying about ¼" from the raw edges. Machine baste the two layers together around all four sides. NOTE: If you've chosen fusible interfacing.
Seam panels and box the bottom corners 1.4. 5. If need be. Press well. once everything is sewn. trim the interfacing so it is completely flush with the fabric. Repeat to stitch a batting panel to the wrong side of each lining panel. make sure both panels are lined up top-to-top. Place the two exterior panels right sides together. pressed and flat. . If you are using a directional print as we did.
Our bag is sized for 6" sides and base. Below is a photo of me looking straight down into the basket. you need to figure your boxed corner seam at half the finished width. pinch and pull apart one bottom corner. 8. lining up my side and bottom seams.. To create this width. 7. As you keep pulling. stitch both sides and across the bottom. Therefore.2. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom. pivoting at the corners. 3. the fabric will begin to make a little peak with the corner point at the top and a seam line running down the middle of both sides. . 6. the next step is to box the bottom corners. Fold one seam allowance to the right and the other seam allowance to the left. we measured 3" from the tip of the corner peak and drew a horizontal line. With the basket still wrong side out. then I look down inside the basket to see if my seams are lining up. but it is still pliable. I work first from the wrong side. Using both hands. Be aware the heavyweight interfacing will make this technique a little harder to do than with plain fabric. in our sample.. Precisely match the two seams front to back. you can do it! 5. Using a ½" seam allowance. 4. I'm still using my Janome Walking foot.
Pin your folded and measured 'peak' and stitch along the drawn line. so your corners should be measured at 2½". Trim away the peak on each side to about ¼" from the seam line.NOTE: For the small basket. 11. However. I would recommend stitching and then backstitching to reinforce. With most boxed corners. 9. 10. Repeat these steps on the opposite corner. since this project is so thick and stiff. I recommend stitching straight across. then replacing it under the needle. . the sides and base are 5". and stitching straight across again. locking at the beginning and end. removing the project.
Repeat ALL the steps (1-12) to create a matching lining.12. 13. Turn the basket right side out and push out to form the boxed corners. .
14. . Start at a side seam and 'dip' the curve of the rick rack down to hide the raw edge. 15. The middle of the rick rack should be aligned with the top fold of the lining so the half of the rick rack's 'wave' sticks up from the top. Fold down and press the top raw edge of both the basket exterior and the lining ½" all around. creating a nice finished edge. Pin in place. Pin the rick rack to the top folded edge of the lining.
16. Machine baste the rick rack in place. I used thread to match my lining fabric in the top and thread to match my rick rack in the bobbin. . staying close to the folded edge. which should be right through the middle of the rick rack.
Push the lining down into place so the side seams match up and the top folded edges are flush. Slip the lining inside the basket exterior so the two layers are wrong sides together. Collect the SIX 2½" x 10" strips: two top fabric strips. two bottom fabric strips and two batting strips.17. Handles 1. .
Using a ½" seam allowance stitch both sides through all layers. . 3.2. Align all raw edges. Trim the seam allowance back to approximately ¼". back fabric right side up. Leave both ends raw and open. Pin in place. Turn each handle right side out and press. top fabric right side down. Make two three-part layers: batting. 4.
Insert each handle between the layers. As with the rick rack. Topstitch along both sides close to the edge. Pin in place. But then I transferred the pins to the . Each inside edge of the handle should be 1" from the side seam and each raw end should be 1½" from the top folded edge.5. positioning them over the side seams. NOTE: I pinned from the inside to hold things in place while I was measuring. I made sure my top and bobbin threads matched each fabric: in my sample that meant green in the top and black in the bobbin. 6.
Otherwise. making sure the top folded edges are flush with one another. the pins will trapped between the layers.outside before final stitching. 7. the side seams match. . Realign the the lining and the exterior basket. and the rick rack is sticking up.
Topstitch all around the top of the basket through all the layers. I put the pedal to the metal again. Once I'd cleared this area. Again. keeping your seam line 3/8" from the top folded edges. Not all machines are up to the task. such as a stack of folded scraps.' I mean I took my foot off the pedal and used the handwheel on the side of the machine to walk the machine stitch by stitch across the super thick layers of the side seams. stay with a color to match the exterior as your top thread and a color to match your lining in the bobbin. NOTE: I switched back to black thread as both my top and bobbin thread because I liked the look of the accent lines of topstitching inside and out. I'm still using my Janome walking foot! 9.8. . IMPORTANT: You are sewing through a LOT of layers. By 'handcrank. Then go back around with a second line of topstitching 1/8" from the first line of topstitching. If you'd prefer a more subtle look. but even I was extra cautious and hand-cranked over the thickest part: the side seams. I would suggest testing your machine with a multiple layer ‘mock-up' first. Be prepared! Our Janome machines power through tough jobs like these.
Contributors .10. As a final touch. we tied a pretty velvet bow around one with the handles.