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© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 1
these are 755 carbs.

You're a fool if you don't read Randakks website before diving into a carb rebuild.

This rebuild is based on his
GL1000 Master Carb Overhaul Kit

OK here we go:
First: detach the carbs from the bike.
I'm not going into that here, as it is just a matter of following your
manual. One thing though; I do believe they fail to mention that
removing the air cut valve assembly, make the process a lot easier.

Here they are

'normal' amount of filth and dirt and what have you
Same thing at the back (and a sneak preview of the intestines)

generally a lot of signs of neglect and heavy handed use of silicone liquid gasket or
whatever it is

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 2
more silicone AND epoxy glue(!). What is going on here?, inside

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 3
obviously one or more carbs have been leaking for a very long time:

witch is confirmed by the build up on the engine block

Time to dismantle this thing. (At that point I had the vacuum chambers off. No need to do
that) Remove the linkages (or rather; as little as possible of it)
to prepare for splitting the plenum/air chamber

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 4
through out the process; take a LOT of pictures. You will NOT remember what this looked
like next Sunday when you get around to do the assembly of the bugger.-)

try keeping the parts in 'batches'.

..theses are some of the screws that hold together the two haves of the plenum/air

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 5
mine took a LOT of struggling to get off

but eventually the gave up the fight against my immense amount of raw muscle power....ho


© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 6
...carefull you don't loose these litttle dowels?

..remove the 4 slow air hoses (between carbs and plenum) from plenum and remove bolts
inside plenum that attaches the carbs.

carefully remove the two-carb assembly (you have NOT removed the crome thingie that
holds together the two crbs)

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 7
...careful, you don't want to loose this little link that the two carbs. (it will stay
put, but if you go into further dismantling it's easily lost)

these (two for each carb) are loose. Remove.

(you'll not find those on the very earliest GL1000)
remove vacuum chamber and pistons

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 8
That is to say; don't split them up into individual carbs.
keep them together two and two.

For various reasons I'm going all the way in this thread.
You don't need to!
...and PHEW it can be a 'bit' confusing if you haven't done it before:
I counted 472 (fourhundredseventytwo) parts here and then everything became a tad

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 9
Now's the time to make a system so you keep things separated and
in 'sets'.

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 10
As a minimum for each carb; Carb body/vacuum chambers/pistons are to be kept as an
assembly I scratch numbers (1 for carb 1 parts and so on) into all the above mentioned

Remove needles from pistons.
There's a screw down there:

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 11
remove float bowls

they most probably look something like this..eeek
..or worse

remove float pivot pin VERY VERY VERY VERY carefully. It's not uncommon that the 'arms'
that holds the pin breaks

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 12
I used a, and tapped on it ever-so-carefully ..till I could get a
grip with a set of plyers ..pulled them out in a STRAIGHT line
Remove floats.

Remove primary and secondary main jets

(forgot to take picture so this is an 'installation' pic.
New o-rings and all)

Remove fuel inlet/filter screen holder

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 13
have a long good look at the state they're in:

The float needles-- look on the black tit--clean it with contact cleaner or carb
cleaner. Use some sort of lint-less rag to dry it off. With a magnifing glass
carefully inspect the black tit for any ring around the middle. If there is a ring
then it should be replaced. Ideally the SEAT should also be replaced....[snip]...
Also check the spring return on the other end. It should push in and out with
spring tension pushing it back out. If stuck then replace the valve.
( From Ray Wooldridge )

If the screen is broken; order a new one.
If it's really messed up; order a new one.
Chuck Kichline calls them
"Your hidden enemy. There's a tiny fuel filter behind every float valve seat.
I had one plug up and cause dropout at higher speeds"

The inlet screen/seat/needle assembly is still available.
Part # 16011-371-305. 15-20$

Nothing's broken....fine

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 14
Remove the small rubber-plug on top of the 'slow jet' tube. Unscrew 'slow jet'

from the top (as on photo) CAREFULLY press out secondary nozzle and primary nozzle, with
a soft instrument/tool, a piece of softish plastic or wood.
If you feel any hard resistance; soak them in your favorite brand of penetrating oil, untill
they can be pressed out without force.

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 15
Look at that !!!!
secondary nozzle / slow jet / primary nozzle....aurg!

at least I've found an excuse for this exercise .-)

..gain access to the primary and secondary air jets by removing this screw

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 16
using a small screwdriver, screw out jets

now for the 'slow air jets'. Remove rubber air tube

and unscrew jet.

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(Later US(?) models have a different kind of slow air jet witch is not to be removed. Sealed'
or something. Maybe some of you can enlighten me on that)
remove pilot screw

don't forget: there's a spring down there:

Please; do yourself a favor: make some kind of system to keep your parts separated in an
orderly manner!

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 18
...don't throw ANYTHING away yet.

My system is: the minute I, let's say, put on a new O-ring, I remove the old one from my
plastic tray. First of all; I have the old one for reference and I can keep track of witch parts
has been renewed.

Now could be the time to check if everything moves freely. This choke butterfly certainly
did not. It took two days of soaking in WD40 to free it, (yes; WD40 does come in (non-
spray) cans) and I tell you; you don't want to use force to free a thing like that.

..yeah I know; the small 'puck' is still on the carb.
More on that later.

Now as I have dismantled so far as I have, I can clean every carb individually.
I tell you.... the exterior of those carbs just wouldn't clean up. I tried every cleaning agent
in the universe...everything! Then it occurred to me that this brownish layer looked a lot
like varnish, lacquer or shellac or something. So I gave them a go with paint-remover
(avoiding covering the plastic washers on the throttle axles) ...and presto! (Well not quite;
it was a long process of paint remover, detergent, paint remover etc.) They came out rather
nicely...don't you think:

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 19
...then cleaned the 'interior' like two dusin times
using a healthy variation of brake cleaner, carb cleaner,
contact cleaner, lime-remover, detergents and few other things
Big brushes, small brushes, tooth brushes, stiff brushes, soft brushes
and a LOOOOOOOOOOOOT of compressed air.

Brake cleaner is really good for just general cleaning up
Contact cleaner is good for removing oxidation..that's what it's made for
Carb cleaner is good for removing fuel residue / varnish-like gum etc

But brake the stuff
Allways have a battery of cans ready

The float bowls and plenum halves I simply 'showered' in my bead-blasting cabinet, using
the finest grade glass-media available. I tell you; it's like the finest flour. The surface comes
out smoooooothe and nice. (But you definitely don't need to do this, ordinary cleaning will
do nicely, thank you)

.and then I washed them and blasted them with a LOT of compressed air
and then I washed them and blasted them with a LOT of compressed air
and then I washed them and blasted them with a LOT of compressed air
etc etc
© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 20
I want the vacuum chamber tops to be polished, so I removed the lacquer with paint
remover. ...avoiding the plastic tops!

you'll have to remove the 'pucks' (new ones are part of Randakks brilliant rebuild kit)
If you're lucky you can do it with your air-gun inserted in the pilot screwhole

if it's reeeealy stuck, and you have no luck with WD40/contact cleaner or similar ,(I didn't)
you may have to drill into it (careful you don't drill through it...and down into the bypass

..what a mess. Be anal about cleaning up.

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 21
So why do you wanna remove the puck? Because behind that thing you'll see this:

Blue arrow:
tree holes leading to the bypass ports and you want to get in there to clean those and the
fuel ways leading to and from there. You'll find two fuel-ways down there (besides the tree
bypass ports)
and while we're there:

Yellow upper circle: underside of the pilot outlet (witch should be cleaned. No reason to
remove it) Yellow lower circle: fuel line from pilot screw, feeding the pilot outlet
and last but not least:

Red circle: pick up of vacuum from
..the (red circle) hole you seen in the next pic here
(this ONLY goes for carb 1.)

(and you can see the bypass ports (blue arrow))

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 22
...the above vacuum runs through that hole through this hole

and through the upper lip of the float chamber and down through this tube

where it is picked up by the vacuum hose leading up to the air cut off valve......yep: that
tiny hole a few pics back is what governs the air cut off valve (more on that later)
...seen from the intake side:

Left: small hole...vacuum uptake for air cutoff valve (only on carb 1) Middle: tree small
holes...bypass ports Right (the 'periscope' thingie): pilot outlet
© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 23
Use tons of cleaner and enormous quantities of highly compressed air to clean all of the
above OK enough carb theory.
...another view of holes and passages to clean:

..clean holes and fuel passages for primary and secondary air jets

..clean holes and passage for fuel inlet

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 24
..pilot screw hole

..slow air jet hole

..fuel inlet from plenum-body to carbs (lower hole)
..air passage from plenum witch is (upper oval hole)
a)feeding air to primary and secondary air jets
b)passage for air from plenum to float chamber

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 25
You get the picture:
a hole ? a passage ? ...clean it....blow lotsa air.
here's one set of tiny thingies you'll have removed from one carb

clean, clean, clean!
I soaked them in a sort of cleaner made to clean things before it's painted

and then some strong household cleaning agent

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 26
..then carb cleaner and lot and lots of compressed air.
Note: these things are tiny tiny, and putting them in front of a strong air gun makes them
excellent projectiles and you can easily spend a whole Saturday morning trying to figure
out where they landed.
Getting there:

still keeping the parts for each individual carb separated

Finally time to break out that brilliant set from Randakk: Here's some of the parts

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 27
(Yes I'm quite anal about keeping thing tidy and orderly; I had a...a...sob..sob...messy home ho ho ; not really .-)
Showing where which O-rings goes:

Third from right: primary main FUEL jet
Second from right: secondary main FUEL jet
for witch you will
the end with the conical hollow end is where the O-ring goes
Here's a close up

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 28
NOTE: for checking jet sizes etc.:
consult Randakks site fuel-bowl fuel inlet and filter/screen goes back in

I did have with that particular O-ring from the Keyster O-ring set provided. I
couldn't really persuade the inlet/o-ring assembly into place. Pushed really hard. So I
compared it with an OEM O-ring from a genuine Honda fuel-inlet/screen set:

...and yes; the Honda O-ring is a tiny bit thinner. So I used that. Perfect fit. Maybe I wasn't
trying hard enough....donno.
Replace retaining plate

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Be careful. The carbs are made of quite soft material BUT be sure the retaining plate is fully
down in position. If not: it will influence the float height adjustment, or rather; you'll adjust
the floats/needle to a seat witch is not in the right position height-wise. (That's why I didn't
like that O-ring; if it didn't allow the fuel inlet to be pressed in fully)

..insert primary and secondary nozzle

on later models the secondary nozzle is a two-parts thing like this

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in goes the slow jet

screw it down into position

and mount the new rubber cap supplied

main jets

and again: note how the hollow conical end (o-ring'ed end)goes in first

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press into position

install the new puck provided

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and new gasket provided

at this point I skipped the floats etc. and put on the float chamber and turned to the other
side of the carb as I did not want the float / needle etc. to flap about when I did the rest of
the carb. I'll return to that in due time

screw in primary and secondary air jets:
in this case 120 and 60 (check the chart for later model specs)

UPPER one in the pic is the Primary (120)
LOWER one in the pis is secondary (60)

some if not all Clymer Manuals have got this WRONG;
they have mixed up the respective data for primary and secondary air jets!


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screw on retaining metal plate

air pilot screw and spring

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slow air jet

clean vacuum chambers and pistons

don't forget to clean inside here

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and the hole up here in the vacuum chamber cover

and lotsa and lotsa compressed air.

test that they move heavenly smooooth and nice. You may have to use the method
provided in the 'Fast Lazy Furious' thread and you may have to polish them to achieve that.

One word of warning though:
the task is not only to make them move heavenly but to make them move heavenly
without stripping chamber or piston of material, thereby creating a larger distance between
the two and lessen the units capability to hold a vacuum.
Any fool can just sand away material and in that way make them move without any friction.
Don't. You'll destroy the vacuum 'calibration'.

insert piston and the white plastic ring

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now: the springs: I have no idea how to check them,
but do it anyway .-)

mount spring and vacuum chamber cover

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now that looks pretty neat...right?

I choose to replace the screw with a set of SS hex. screws, that you can find on EBay
It's a matter of preferences. I prefer these

tree more to go

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..I did come up with a rather nifty (if I may say so ) method to check the vacuum piston

..put vacuum tops on a level surface
..install springs
..install piston

Measure how much each piston depress the spring.

Sure this method doesn't show if they are within spec. as I have no idea about spec.
But it will reveal if one spring is completely off.

OK let's get these carbs together:

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install guide pins / fuel gasket-rubber-thingy ('rounded' end towards plenum / large O-ring

IF you did split the carbs from the chrome-carb-protection thing and into individual carbs:
..then don't forget this link:

..and the small spring

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..and note: there should be one washer on each side of the 'tang'-end of the throttle
connecting shaft

now we have something like this

..mount 'net' Four bolts

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 41 be absolutely sure the big O-ring is properly seated, I lifted the plenum a few mm. and
put a flashlight to it, before tightening the bolts

lock the bolts

.same for the two carbs / other plenum-half. Then mount the fine new plenum rubber and
the two 'guide' pins: lower left and upper right

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 42
..install throttle and choke mechanism.
Hopefully you haven't been as stupid as me and broken them down to individual
it should be easy
anyway: considering the state they were in, they cleaned up surprisingly nicely

THAT looks nice:

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 43
OOOH yes!

mind you, a couple of pages back they looked like this

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so now it's a small matter of
..installing floats, adjusting the height
..air cut off valve
..air supply hoses plenum to slow air jet
and a few other things

Not for resale or to be
published. To be passed
around your Wing
© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. 45