Serving Ideas for SARDINES, ANCHOVIES, MACKEREL: DARLINGS OF SUSTAINABILITY Presentation at 2009 IACP conference Panelists: Toni Lydecker

and Sam Hayward Sardines, anchovies and mackerel have earned their places on recommended fish lists for several reasons. Small, for the most part, these migratory species tend to mature quickly and may spawn several times during the year. For the most part, stocks are managed and fished in a sustainable way; purse seines and other fishing methods pose few by-catch or habitat impact issues. With the exception of king mackerel, these fish do not live long enough to accumulate mercury and other pollutants. Other good news on the health front: Sardines, anchovies and mackerel are all rich in heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids and offer other nutritional benefits, including B vitamins, phosphorus, potassium, iron and selenium. From a culinary standpoint, too, these relatively inexpensive fish hold a great deal of potential. At their pristine freshest, sardines, anchovies and mackerel can be served raw, and they also take beautifully to grilling, broiling, baking and frying. There are many applications for these species in high-quality preserved form, as well. Truth be told, though, many cooksincluding culinary professionals--veer away from sardines, anchovies and mackerel, whether from lack of familiarity or fear of fishiness that can result from using inferior or past-their-prime fish. In the hope that a creative jumpstart will motivate you to prepare these fish more frequently, here are some ideas to consider: Grill whole sardines on a hot fire. Sprinkle with sea salt and finish with a splash of housemade apple cider vinegar. (menu of Fore Street, Portland, Maine, chef/partner Sam Hayward) Sprinkle fresh sardines with lemon juice, olive oil and sea salt. Layer with blanched vine leaves and lemon slices, and bake. (www.about.com/Greek Food, Nancy Gaifyllia) To give sardines a Swedish treatment, spread fillets with butter blended with Dijon mustard, parsley and lemon juice. Sandwich fillet pairs, batter and fry. (Joy of Cooking, 1997 edition) Chop sardine fillets in a food processor bowl. Season with a mixture that includes paprika, cumin, ground hot pepper, chopped fresh parsley and coriander, and form small balls. Simmer in a spicy tomato sauce (www.about.com/Moroccan food, by Christine Benlafquih)

For a different take on sardine meatballs, use flavorings such as scallion, fresh ginger and miso, plus a little flour as a binder. Simmer in dashi broth, embellishing with julienned carrots, greens and udon noodles. (www.KyotoFoodie.com) Create an interesting variation on salade nioise by substituting fresh sardines for the usual tuna. Marinate boned sardines with extra virgin olive oil, Banyuls vinegar and calaminth (mint-scented herb). Cook with sauted onions and raisins before adding to the salad. (menu of Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro, Boston, executive chef Jason Bond) A classic Sicilian antipasto begins with marinating fresh anchovy fillets in lemon juice until they whiten. Arrange them on a platter sprinkled with red pepper flakes and parsley leaves, and drizzle with best-quality olive oil. (Seafood alla Siciliana, by Toni Lydecker, 2009) Serve Vietnamese sour beef hot pot with a pineapple-anchovy dipping sauce, flavored also with chilies, garlic and lemon juice. (Essentials of Asian Cuisine, by Corinne Trang, 2003) Marinate mackerel or sardine fillets in Greek-style yogurt combined with chopped garlic, olive oil, lemon juice and mint. Broil on one side only. Or, coat mackerel with a curry paste, broil and serve with pickled onion and fennel. (Fish Forever, by Paul Johnson, 2007) Make mackerel escabeche by frying the fillets and covering them with a mixture of vinegar and seasonings such as cumin seeds and oregano. Bring to a boil, cool and refrigerate for a day. Serve on greens with tomato wedges and other garnishes. (My Kitchen in Spain, by Janet Mendel, 2002) Bake mackerel or bluefish covered with a Portuguese tomato sauce fragrant with garlic, basil, green bell pepper and hot red pepper. (The L.L. Bean Book of New New England Cookery, by Judith and Evan Jones, 1987) Coat slashed whole mackerel or sardines with soy sauce and strew with scallions and julienned fresh gingerroot. Steam and drizzle with the seasoned liquid. (The Modern Seafood Cook, by Edward Brown and Arthur Boehm, 1995)