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DESIGNING JEWELRY

with semiprecious beads

Stringing instructions and techniques


for necklaces, bracelets, and much more

KIM GOVER
2 ABOUT BEADS

Amethyst Lapis Lazuli Turquoise

Typical colors: all kinds of purples Typical colors: brilliant blue to denim Typical colors: traditionally sky blue;
ranging between lavender, rose, color, with gold or silver colored specks. but turquoise comes in all kinds of blues
and magenta. through yellow greens, with a brown
Popular forms: beads, cabachons, chips,
“matrix” of veins and patches.
Popular forms: round and faceted rough-shaped nuggets, and pendants set
beads, chips, drop beads, and pendants in metal. Beads tend to be squared rather Popular forms: available in a range of
in all shapes. than round. forms—it’s relatively light in comparison
to other stones, so quite large stones and
Relative cost: $$ Relative cost: $$$
pendants are popular too.
Companions: silver, glass beads or other Companions: set off by yellow-hued
Relative cost: $$
quartz crystals—rose quartz is a subtle amber or citrine, looks equally good with
pink hue. bronze or copper colors. Companions: silver is a traditional
partner, but gold can look striking.
THE FACTS THE FACTS
THE FACTS
Amethyst is from the quartz species of Lapis Lazuli is an intense opaque blue. It
stones, which is the largest gemstone often contains small gold or silver mineral Watch out for reconstructed or treated
family, and one of the most widely used in deposits, which run like veins through turquoise which will be cheaper than
jewelry making because of its affordable the stone. original stones.
and beautiful appeal.
The finest quality lapis has an even blue It is a light stone, which makes it ideal
Amethyst can be found in a variety of color without the mineral specks. It has for chunkier jewelry. Unfortunately this
purple shades, from light lavender or rose the best depth of shade and is more also means that it can crumble and mark
to the intense deep Siberian amethyst, expensive because of this. easily, so if you are stringing, make knots
which reflects a magenta color. between the beads.
Lapis is commonly dyed to try and recreate
These deeper shades are often more the more pricey varieties. If you buy the The color of turquoise can range from
expensive than the lighter ones. more expensive types of lapis get it from china blue and deep blue to blue-green,
a reputable dealer to avoid fakes. dark greeny blue and yellowish green.

Turquoise goes with all


kinds of colors—yellow
beads bring out the
greener shades.
Amethyst is available
in lots of pretty cut-
pendant shapes.
SEMIPRECIOUS STONES 3

Aquamarine Amazonite Serpentine

Typical colors: from sea green to sky blue; Typical colors: blue to blue-green. Typical colors: blue-green to
even some darker blues. yellow-green.
Popular forms: round beads, chips,
Popular forms: rough and polished chips, and pebbles. Popular forms: typically round beads;
round, squared, and faceted beads. carved pendants are also common.
Relative cost: $
Relative cost: $$ Relative cost: $
Companions: set off well by smoky quartz
Companions: a darker blue or green will colors, such as Cat’s eye. Companions: set off well by smoky quartz
bring out the hues—try apatite or green colors, such as Cat’s eye.
THE FACTS
chrysoprase. Aquamarine is popularly
THE FACTS
twinned with mother of pearl and silver. Amazonite is an attractive opaque stone
that, due to the presence of lead, is either Serpentine, which is also commonly
THE FACTS
an irregular striped blue and white or a known as “new jade,” is a versatile stone.
Aquamarine is closely related to emeralds. solid blue-green color.
Commonly sold in a range of greens, it
Aquamarine can be found in sparkling Amazonite can also occur in yellow, pink, can include patches or markings of white,
sea green, sky blue and dark blue. Sky red, and gray, but blue-green is the most black, and yellow.
blue and dark blue have become the most popular and widely seen.
The stone is called “serpentine” because
desirable (and the most costly option).
The stone has a vitreous luster, but can of its color and markings, which resemble
It has become popular to heat treat the also possess a lovely “silk” or sheen. those found on snakes.
stone to give it a better color blue.
It normally appears in bead form, as it It is said by mystics to help with emotional
can be sensitive to pressure. cleansing, psychic powers, and attract love
and money.
Despite being known as true jade's poor
relation, the stone can stand alone as a
pretty, affordable alternative.

Although less highly valued, gemstone


chips can be used in bulk to great
effect. Here, the amazonite chips
are set on zigzag-shaped wire
separated by “gimp” or bullion
(see page 23).
BRACELETS 5

Black Onyx
BEAD STORE

1 dark green handmade lampworked


glass bead, approximately 12 x 10mm Handmade lampworked beads, black onyx,
Austrian crystals, and Hill Tribe silver
 2 black onyx 4mm round beads are the special ingredients in this lovely
 4 black onyx 8mm round beads bracelet. It is a real classic and will never go
out of fashion. Unusually with a piece using
 6 Swarovski crystal emerald so much silver, it has been strung and is
F G H

6mm bicone beads balanced with just the right ratio of beads to
silver to enhance the beauty of the beads.
 2 Hill Tribe silver curved tubes E

 4 Hill Tribe silver 8mm bead caps


 4 Hill Tribe silver 6mm coiled beads D C B A

 4 Sterling silver 3mm round beads

You will also need:


1 Hill Tribe silver 11mm toggle clasp M
Beading wire M 2mm sterling silver tube
crimp beads and crimp covers

Classic with gemstones and silver Simple elegance, using just round gemstone beads
and silver. The beauty of the gemstones is really being
underlined in this design. The gemstones used include
BEAD STORE You will also need:
onyx, chrysoprane, golden jade, red garnet, and carnelian.
1 12 mm silver toggle
12 8mm round gemstone beads clasp M Approximately
 1 15mm silver lentil bead 10in. of Tiger Tail beading
wire M 2 silver 2mm crimp
 2 4mm round beads beads M 2 silver 4mm
 2 10mm hammered round rings crimp covers

 2 7mm silver beads


 8 8mm silver bead caps
 8 5mm silver daisy spacer beads

D
G F E
C
A

B
6 THE DESIGNS

Sea theme
BEAD STORE

20 green moss-quartz 8mm round beads


 12 apatite 8mm round beads
 6 white freshwater pearls, approximately 7mm
 2 Hill Tribe silver 12mm shell beads
This necklace is a wonderful interpretation of the sea.
 2 Hill Tribe silver shell charm Green moss-quartz and apatite beads have been combined
 1 Hill Tribe silver starfish charm with white freshwater pearls and Hill Tribe silver sea-life
beads. A fantastic silver shell completes the design. There
 1 large Hill Tribe silver shell pendant is a really good balance between gemstone beads and
 35 sterling silver 2mm round beads silver in this strung necklace. Besides from the sea-life
silver beads, the gemstone beads have been separated by
You will also need: tiny sterling silver spacer beads. An extension chain with a
4cm of sterling silver extension chainM1 sterling silver silver shell charm has been added as an extra detail.
9mm trigger claspMBeading wire M2mm sterling
silver tube crimp beads and crimp covers
P END ANTS 7

Lapis Luzuli
B EA D ST ORE

A 22 lapis lazuli 7 x 10mm rectangular beads

B 8 blue goldstone 8mm round beads

C 16 gold filled 3mm round beads

D 14 gold vermeil 5mm flower spacer beads

E 1 blue goldstone and gold pendant,


approximately 1 X 1¼in. (2.5 x 3cm)
D

You will also need:


1 gold vermeil 12mm toggle clasp l B eading wire l 2mm
H gold filled tube crimp beads and crimp covers

This fascinating necklace has an air of ancient E gypt.


It has been created with lovely lapis lazuli rectangular
B
beads and blue goldstone round beads—each bead
A separated by gold vermeil spacer beads and gold filled
round beads. The wonderful blue goldstone and gold
E
pendant, and the gold vermeil toggle clasp bring harmony
to the finished necklace.

D
A B C D

E
DESIGNING JEWELRY
with semiprecious beads
Discover how to string beautiful pieces using semiprecious stones:
including quartz, turquoise, peridot, moonstone, amber, coral, and carnelian.
Select the most beautiful stone beads, choosing just the right number and size to guarantee a harmoniously proportioned piece.

Get inspired to make your unique combinations, learning which gemstones complement each other, which order to string them,
and how to combine them with simple knots, sterling silver findings, crimp beads, spacers, or wire twists.

Packed with over 90 examples from international bead artists, each example is “deconstructed” so you can see the exact
type and quantity of bead that goes into its creation, and re-create it.

KIM GOVER runs her own lampworking studio and has been making Paperbound, 8¾ x 8¾, 128 pages
her own jewelry for three years. Her favorite materials are semipre- 250 photographs
ISBN 978-1-59668-104-0
cious gemstones, teamed with sterling silver and crystals. She sells $24.95
her work at craft fairs, private parties, and online. February 2009