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Bedford Cord By Kalyan Ray Gupta

The Bedford cord class of weave produces longitudinal warp lines in the cloth with fine sunken lines in between. The Bedford weaves are constructed by combining a long float weft rib as base weave and plain or basic twill as face. To produce more prominent cords firm plain weave to be used. If the sett is a bit crowed, the wefts cannot shrink in the plain-weave part of the cloth because there is no place for them to go. The weft floats on the other hand, are free to shrink, thus rounding out the cord. In the design of bed ford cords, two series of warp threads are considered. The first group constitutes the face threads which weave as cord and plain weave on alternate or pair of picks. The other group of threads known as cutting ends weaves as plain. The cutting ends separate the neighboring cords. Wadded Bedford Cords — These structures contain thick wadding or padding ends which lie between the rib face cloth and the weft floats on the underside ; the object of the arrangement being to give greater prominence to the cords. Wadding ends are used to give the cord further stability and help to prevent it from becoming flattened. The wadding threads never interlace with weft, but lie perfectly straight between the ridges of their respective cords and the floating weft at the back. This condition necessitates the wadding threads being wound upon a separate warp beam, and held at greater tension than face warp threads during weaving. Generally method of denting is two ends per split, the wadding ends being dented extra. If finer yarns are used for producing cords then denting is three or four ends per split. The number of wadding ends to each cord may be varied according to requirements.

Classification of Bedford cords:
Bedford cords are classified as shown below.

Bedford Cord

Plain faced

Twill faced only on alternate picks

pair of picks

alternate picks

Without Wadded Without Wadded
Wadded

Wadded

Without Wadded

Wadded

arranged with pair of pick Principle • • • C C • • C ΟΟΟΟΟΟ• • • ΟΟΟΟΟΟ ΟΟΟΟΟΟ• • • ΟΟΟΟΟΟ • C C C C • Step 1: Select the repeat size and mark the interlacement of cutting ends and weft yarn Step 2: Inserting marks indicating warp float on the first and second picks of a cord .Bedford Cord By Kalyan Ray Gupta Plain face Bedford Cord. and on the third and fourth picks on the other cords. arranged with pair of pick Principle each cord consists of six ends . 6 5 4 3 2 1 X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X 4 3 2 1 × • • C × × × × × • • • • C C Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο • • Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο × × × × × × × × × × × × × × × × × × × × × × 1 2 3 4 5 6 C Fig 1 (b): Design. drafting and lifting plan of Plain face Bedford Cord. arranged with pair of pick: 4 2 1 3 • • • C Fig 1 (a): Cross sectional view of Plain face Bedford Cord.

Bedford Cord By Kalyan Ray Gupta .

and on the third and fourth picks on the other cords. arranged with pair of pick principle • • • • C W W C • • • • C W W C Step 1: Select the repeat size . . third and fourth picks.Bedford Cord By Kalyan Ray Gupta Plain face warded Bedford Cord arranged with pair of pick: 4 2 1 3 Fig 2 (a): Cross sectional view of Plain face Bedford Cord with warded yarn. mark the interlacement of cutting ends and weft yarn and placing of wadded yarn • • Ο Ο ⊗ ⊗ W Ο Ο ⊗ ⊗ Ο Ο Ο Ο ⊗ ⊗ Ο Ο Ο Ο • • • Ο Ο Ο Ο ⊗ ⊗ W Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο • • C C • C Ο Ο C Step 2: Inserting marks indicating warp float on the first and second picks of a cord . second. × • • C × × × ⊗ ⊗ W × × ⊗ ⊗ W • • • • C C Ο Ο Ο Ο ⊗ ⊗ Ο Ο Ο Ο ⊗ ⊗ Ο Ο Ο Ο • • Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο × × × × × × C Step 3: Complete the design by inserting marks indicating interlacement of face warps with first.

Bedford Cord By Kalyan Ray Gupta Plain face Bedford Cord arranged with alternate pick: • • • C • • C • • • C C Step 1: Select the repeat size and mark the interlacement of cutting ends and weft yarn Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο • Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο • C • • • • C C • Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο • Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο C Step 2: Inserting marks indicating warp float on the first and third picks of a cord . and on the second and fourth picks on the other cords. Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο • × × × Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο • × × × C • • C • × × × Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο • × × × Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο C • • C Step 3: Complete the design by inserting marks indicating interlacement of face warps with first. third and fourth picks . second.

. third and fourth picks.Bedford Cord By Kalyan Ray Gupta Plain face wadded Bedford Cord arranged with alternate pick: • • • C W W • • W W C • • • C C Step 1: Select the repeat size and mark the interlacement of cutting ends and weft yarn Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο • Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο • C • • • • C C • Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο • Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο C Step 2: Inserting marks indicating warp float on the first and third picks of a cord . second. Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο ⊗ × ⊗ × • × • • × × × • Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο × × × • • × × × • Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο • C C C C Step 3: Complete the design by inserting marks indicating interlacement of face warps with first. and on the second and fourth picks on the other cords.

Bedford Cord By Kalyan Ray Gupta Twill faced Bedford Cord: Ο Ο Ο • × Ο Ο Ο • × Ο Ο Ο • × C F F F Ο Ο Ο × Ο Ο Ο × Ο Ο Ο × F F F • • • • Ο • × • Ο C C F Ο × Ο Ο Ο × Ο Ο Ο × Ο Ο Ο F F F × • Ο Ο × • Ο Ο • Ο Ο F F C Twill faced wadded Bedford Cord: Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο • • • • • • × × × × × × • • • × × × × • Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο • × • Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο ⊗ Ο Ο × C F F W F F W F F C C F F W F F W F F C .