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RACO Wire Protection Plate, Wood Nailing Spur

Electrical > Electrical Boxes > Electrical Box Cover Accessories
Wire Protection Plate, Wood Stud Nailing Spur, Length 2.56 In, Width 1.5 In, Depth 0.0625 In, Material of Construction Galvanized Steel & Malleable Iron, Standards UL Grainger Item # 2DCN4 Price (ea.) $0.25 Brand RACO Mfr. Model # 2709 Ship Qty. 1 Sell Qty. (Will-Call) 1 Ship Weight (lbs.) 0.05 Usually Ships** Today Catalog Page No. N/A Country of Origin USA (Country of Origin is subject to change.)

TOOLS & MATERIALS Wire or cable Stepladder Tape and sheets of plastic, as needed Keyhole or saber saw Chisel

Dust mask Utility knife Pencil Plumb bob 3/4-inch spade bit

Power drill and large bits Fish tape Metal nail shield plates Safety goggles

Electrical tape Hammer Dust mask

INSTRUCTIONS Running the cable or wire across the ceiling Wear a dust mask and safety goggles while doing this job. Working on drywall and framing creates a great deal of fine dust that should not be inhaled and could irritate your eyes. When done, sweep up and vacuum debris. (Change the cleaner's bag often — this dust can kill a vacuum cleaner.) If doing a great deal of cutting, you might want to tape sheets of plastic to doorways to seal them off, preventing the dust from entering clean areas.

Fig. 1 1) Cut the ceiling opening Using a keyhole or saber saw, cut a hole in the ceiling where you wish to locate the ceiling box. (Fig. 1)

Fig. 2 2) Mark wall For the easiest of jobs identify which way the ceiling joists run so that the wire can be fished easily across the ceiling in the space between the joists. Check the adjacent walls first to see if a suitable source for the electric can be located there. From the ceiling hole, make a visual reference line running perpendicular to the wall where the cable will turn downward; then mark a reference line on the ceiling and wall at the point of intersection. (Fig. 2)

use a utility knife to make adjoining 2x4-inch openings in the wallboard. 4 4) Notch the top plate From the 2x4-inch ceiling cutout. Tie a plumb bob or some other type of weight to the end of the fish tape and drop it down into the wall cavity. across to the ceiling cutout made at the adjoining wall. (Fig. bore a 3/4-inch-wide hole down all the way through the double top plate or use a chisel to cut a 3/4-inch wide by 1-inch deep notch in the outer face of the top plates to receive the cable.Fig. (Fig. 3) Fig. one in the ceiling and in the wall. (Fig. 4) Fig. 5 5) Fish the tape Through the new opening that you cut for the ceiling box feed a long fish tape through the joist space in the ceiling. 3 3) Cut access holes At the point of intersection. 5) .

To do this job you will need to cut openings in the ceiling and use a fish tape to pull the cable across the ceiling. If you purchase any smoke detectors. and then out the hole you cut previously that will house the ceiling box. most building codes now require hardwired smoke detectors in a home. In addition. 7) Copyright © Creative Homeowner Hardwiring Smoke Detectors Though battery-powered smoke detectors are widely used and readily available. seal off the area by taping plastic sheets over the doorway and using plastic drop cloths immediately beneath your work area. 6) Fig. 6 6) Pull the wire or cable Grab and pull the fish tape through an access hole made at the bottom of the wall. across the ceiling. Continue to use your battery-powered detectors as a backup system. or saber saw. they all sound. (Fig. be certain that they have these capabilities . (Fig. remembering to change the batteries at least twice a year. While working with the drywall.Fig. Openings in the drywall can be made using a utility knife. 7 Next. pull the cable or wire up through the wall. . and then fasten the wire or cable to the fish tape. wear safety goggles and a dust mask to protect yourself from the dust and debris. If so desired. Sweep up and vacuum the area so that you don't track it into clean areas. keyhole saw.many do not. Bend the wire or cable a little and tape over the splice to prevent any sharp wire ends from catching on and locking it in the wall cavities. all hardwired residential smoke detectors may now be required to be interconnected so that when one alarm sounds.

Safety Tips: Use battery-operated smoke detectors as a backup system in the event of a power failure. with accessible basements and attics. This involves gypsum board nailed to the studs and joists. For example. . followed by a layer of gypsum. usually don't have a light fixture in the living room ceiling. such as my house. Recommendation: Do-it-Yourself Pulling wires through walls One of the downsides of owning an older house is that older houses often don't have as many electrical circuits as one would like. Postwar housing up to some point in the 1960's generally use a "wet wall" style of plaster. But also more difficult to work with than installing a socket in drywal. Bungalows. are however relatively less difficult to add wiring to after the fact. This article describes what installing an extra light fixture in an older bungalow involves. 1950's style houses. After figuring out that I could indeed run wires where I wanted.PROJECT BASICS • • • • • Project: Easy Estimated Project Time: 5 hours Start Tips: Determine best location for the smoke detectors. followed by a layer of mortar. This makes for a very sturdy wall. and then paint. I started by making a hole in the ceiling for an octagonal box.

After drilling the holes.just made them to help me position the piece of 2x4. I nailed this piece of 2x4 in with diagonal nails on either end. and drilling a closely spaced series of 3/8" holes with a masonry bit. The two little blocks are not actually attached . and picking the point where the sound was hollowest. I used a utility knife to chip away the bits of plaster between the holes. . The piece of ceiling came out fairly nicely. I cut a piece of 2x4 to the length of the space between the joists. and only minor chipping was needed to the resulting hole to make the octagonal box fit. I ended up locating a point about half way between two joists just by knocking along the ceiling. To subsequently mount the socket. I started by outlining the shape of the octagonal box with a pencil.Stud finders are often useless with walls this thick. Two small blocks on either end lift it to the right height for the octagonal socket to be flush with the ceiling.

As a result of having to hunt for where the stud was not. I ended up putting the electrical box right next to a stud. the first few holes I drilled ended up hitting wood. I wasn't overly worried about the mess though. because the wood lath plaster is just too fragile and tends to detach itself from the lath whenever you do anything to it. it's probably best to mount a surface box near a joist. This made the special 'rework' electrical box which has the ability to clamp itself to the plaster wall unnecessary. so that it could be screwed straight into the stud. For the light switch.I wouldn't recommend this technique if your house uses wood lath (1920s or earlier). because I still had some of the paint left over from when the living room was painted. I couldn't really find a spot between the studs using my knocking technique. Hence the series of five individual hoes to the right of the outline for the switch. If your house uses wood lath. The photo shows the box inserted just for a test fit. It wouldn't be a good idea to install the box before pulling the wires through the walls. Running the wires I ran the wire from the ceiling to the light switch in the attic . This sort of work is often hit and miss. It only took a bit of plaster of Paris and paint to hide them completely.

there's usually a board nailed to the top plate of those walls. Any sort of wood bit would not be a good idea.even more so if drilling through a subfloor.To run the wire into the wall. Fortunately. one can see the top plate between the pieces of gypsum board (the horizontal line in the image at left). I used a 1/2" drill for metal. as they are not good at removing chips from deeper holes. I drilled into wall's top plate (the 2x4 that runs horizontally along the studs) into the cavity inside the wall. because hitting a nail is not alltogether unlikely . For walls parallel to the joists. For walls that run perpendicular to the ceiling joists. to give a nailing surface for the drywall or gypsum board on either side. That's as big a metal drill that fits in most hand drill chucks. So it's just a . it's easy to tell where the walls run from the attic. Spade drills are especially unadvisable.

as you can see in the photo. I ran another wire back up into the attic. For walls perpendicular to the joists. Instead. directly below the switch is the main heating duct. and then just watch for it from the hole in the wall. there will be two joists very close together where the wall is. and ran it back down through another wall. Sadly. Because the hole for the switch is large enough to reach. and I know I'm in the right spot. It's also advisable to use a smaller drill for the initial hole up from the basement. Fishing wires through the walls Fishing a wire from the attic to the basement. but in my basement. But that didn't occur to me until after I had fished the wire through. The wire itself tends to have enough rigidity that it can be up or down. That way. I suppose a solution would have been to just install an extra electrical outlet in the hallway. I had to chisel away part of that to make room for the switch. Usually. and when you see it reach in and pull it out. which makes for surprises and frustrations sometimes. there's no need for any sort of fish tape to get the wire through. so that when I drill from the top. so going down from the switch was not an option. getting the wire in is relatively easy. I can see the light through the hole. there's less damage to your floor. the walls are a bit harder to locate. I could have still drilled a hole down from that to get to the basement. . I got very close to a horizontal brace. just to have an excuse to cut another hole in the wall and avoid a difficult wire fishing job. When running wires to a switch box. for walls parallel to the joists. if your drill ends up in a room and not a wall. Where I put the switch box. without cutting a hole in the wall makes for more of a challenge though. For drilling up from the basement. Any sort duct work or pipes going through the floor is useful as a reference point to measure to. one doesn't have x-ray vision. and then check the floors before going to a larger drill.matter of measuring from the nearest corner in a wall to figure out where you are on the walls. I like to set up a lamp shining into the hole. sometimes you can see rows of nails sticking out of the subfloor.

Then. I have also seen suggestions of dropping a chain in from the top. until you feel resistance to pulling the nail up. lower a nail or other narrow piece of metal attached to a thread. Life was further complicated by an I-beam directly below the wall. the fish tape was no use. For this type of job. Once your have lowered the nail all the way down. there's likely some sort of cross brace or fire stop in the wall. or resort to cutting a hole in the wall at the height of the obstruction to get around it. and hooking it in from the bottom. For this job. so that the magnet is a few centimeters into the stud cavity. pick a different spot to run the wire. at which point it should be stuck to the magnet. and once I gave up on the fish tape and used a magnet. I have to admit that I have never successfully used it for a job that could not just as well have been done with coathanger wire. unless you drill a really big hole. As you first lower the nail. bounce it around the bottom of the cavity by repeatedly jerking the string up and down a little bit. . I'm very skeptical of that method myself .I can't imagine the chain not getting caught or jammed as you try to hook it somewhere from below. from above. Basically. be sure that it pulls in an amount of string that corresponds to the height of the wall. involving fishing the wire between two half inch holes from the basement and the attic. my method consists of attaching a small rare earth magnet to the end of a piece of copper wire or coathanger wire. My method of using a piece of metal and a magnet has served me well though. it worked form me quickly. and passing it up from below. If the nail hits something before going down the full wall height. so I had to drill the bottom hole at an angle to get into the wall. If jerking the string repeatedly doesn't make it go down further. This really makes it impossible to direct a fish tape.Although I have a handy dandy fish tape.

Once you have the nail stuck to the magnet. You might get the nail stuck and lose it. There's few things as disappointing as having the wire detach from the string as you pull it through. and having to start over again! . Strip it down to just the copper for the hook part. as the magnet may end up attaching itself to things other than your steel wire. and to hopefully cover anything that the wire might snag on. it could take a surprisingly large amount of force to pull the wire through. It may be tempting to just use steel wire from the bottom. getting the nail stuck to the magnet again doesn't take that much trying from above. and carefully pull it up into the attic. just to give it less opportunity to snag as you pull it. That however would be a bad idea. to make the hook narrower. Tightly wrap some electrical tape around the wire. tie a bigger string to it. both to hold the loop hook closed. and hook it around the loop. but fortunately. If you had to drill your holes at a bit of an angle. and strip the wire. Don't use too much tape though. and lower the magnet by the thread instead. and it could be very difficult to get it to detach by pulling on the thread. because the tape itself can bunch up and snag too. Once you have the string through. go to the basement and carefully pull it out through the hole. Once you have pulled the string into the basement. so they hopefully won't combine to make it worse.. Also note how I made it so that all my potential snag points are a few inches apart. tie a loop to the end of it.

I used a double switch. You may also need a hammer & chisel if you will be notching studs or joists. Planning your wiring run First you will need to decide on the start and end location for your wire and then determine the path that the wire will take. electrical tape. I can turn on just two bulbs at a time if I don't need as much light. Studs are 1 1/2" wide and will usually be 16" or 24" apart (except need windows. The Finishing Guide explains how to terminate the wires (put on the end connectors) after you run them to the outlet. I'm no fan of dimmer switches. and a stud finder. but this way. doorways. You may also want to read some of our other guides for more information. and other walls). See also: Installing a socket in finished drywall Installing a Bathroom sink and faucet Building a small Running Wires in an Existing Home This guide explains how to fish wires through walls on an existing home . The Wiring Panel makes the case for terminating all wires to a central location instead of running wires room to room. Minimally. you will need a fish tape. a drywall saw. The Types of Wires page explains the different types of wires you may be using. Some things to consider when running the wire: • Use a stud finder to determine the exact locations of studs in the wall. Some flexibility in the outlet location could make a difficult wire run much easier. It is important to consider the wire path before cutting any holes. .And here's my installed light. and made it so I can control half the light separately. Make sure you don't cut your hole right over a stud. The Parts Guide lists what you need to do the project.after the drywall is installed.

Next determine what is inside the wall. Do not cut the wire from the spool until you are done the wire run. Instead I use a utility knife / razor blade with the depth of the blade set to the thickness of the drywall. but you can never be sure. These boards could prevent you from running a wire down that wall. You may also want to find a home under construction in your neighborhood to walk through to familiarize yourself with what the walls look like on the inside. That way it does not cut through the paper barrier of the insulation. Duct work can interfere with everything. outlet locations should give you a good idea of where the wires are. Outlets will not fit backto-back in the same wall. A medicine cabined could interfere with an in-wall speaker. Any cable. If this is an exterior wall. The Structured Wiring page also has lots of helpful tips on identifying wires. Sometimes it is easier to count studs on each wall instead. This doesn't mean you can't use it but it makes fishing wires more difficult. For wires that are run inside walls you should purchase fire resistant wire that is rated for runs through multiple floors. you could run the wires tucked under the baseboard around the outside of the room. The best way to locate a fire stop is to use a stud finder up and down the wall where you will be running the wire. and the power wire will be run either up or down from that stud. determine if your chosen outlet/speaker location is best. If you cut the wire and then run it you will almost always cut it too short. Also. It is best to not cut until you are done (or at least partially done) and then you should add a couple of feet to your estimate. pipes and ducts with pictures of what they look like before the drywall is installed. If necessary. You may need to do some creative measuring to find the same spot on both walls. Cutting the holes for outlets At this point you think you know what is behind the wall. knowing that they are either 16" or 24" apart. Finally.. You should also go into the basement or attic to see what pipes and wires go through that wall. internet. That is why I don't like using any power tools to cut through the drywall. For wires run near the flue you may want to purchases purchase rated wires. • • • • • Now that you understand what is in the wall. Acoustic Research makes a flat speaker wire that sticks to your wall that you can paint over.• Determine what is on the other side of the wall. Builders will also sometimes use horizontal 2x4's on either side of a door to prevent the wall from shaking when the door is slammed shut. Another problem is fire stops running horizontally between two studs. I trace out the electrical box and then cut the rest of the hole using a sheetrock keyhole saw or a utility knife. it should do so at a 90 degree angle. You don't want to cut holes for a speaker only to find water pipes for the upstairs bathroom running through that wall. When your wires need to cross an electrical cable. The power outlet will be mounted to a stud. then it will be filled with insulation. Once I verify that there is nothing wrong. I also like using a utility knife to cut drywall on external walls. especially if this wall is right next to a door. be sure to read through this entire guide before you start cutting.. wires should be run at least 12" away from a power wire. This hole is big enough that I can see and feel around for any wires or pipes but small enough that it is easily patched in case I have made a mistake. For an outlet I first make a 1" x 1" hole in the center of the box using a utility knife. Would moving the outlet on the other side of a stud in either direction cause more or less problems? Are there so many problems that the wire cannot be run? There are alternatives for very difficult installations. .

you should be able to run wires without having to cut & patch any drywall. This will all be covered in detail below. .When tracing out the electrical box. don't include the tabs on the top or the bottom. Then tighten the screws on the front of the box to open the tabs/flaps and pull them toward the drywall. use existing ducts or pipe runs to get wires from the attic into the basement. Remember to pull the wires through the box before putting the box in the hole. On the second floor run wires down the wall from the attic. This is what it should look like from behind the wall when you are done. On the first floor run wires up the wall from the basement. Drilling to access the wall from above or below If you have access to your basement/crawl space and attic. When necessary.


drill a small hole under the baseboard moulding at the joint of the wall and the floor. This wire should come out right under the drywall. Again. Then attach your wire to the fish tape and pull it back through. These bits can be up to 6 feet long and can be used to drill through several studs or joists at a time. sinks. If you drill through 3 studs at a time without being able to see what is between them. Then push a thin wire (or a coat hanger wire) through this hole and then find this wire coming through the ceiling in the basement. Second floor installations are easier because you will be able to see the double top plate from the attic. Remember that 2" off in either direction and you are drilling through your rug. Also don't unnecessarily push the drill bit all of the way through the floor.. I've actually run into triple top plates (5 1/2" total thickness). Maybe you don't have a basement or an attic. push the wire fish tape through the hole you have drilled. The floor will only be 3/4" thick at most. electrical wire or ductwork. The studs are 3 1/2" wide so move 1 1/2" . above and below where you are drilling (on all floors) to determine if something might be in that wall. Fishing the wires through walls Now you should be ready to fish the wire. Make sure there are no wires or pipes in that area in the basement. and a small angle on the drill can cause you to come out through your ceiling or wall instead of being between the studs. You should have a rough idea where the drill bit will come through the floor. Sometimes drilling from above or below is not an option.2" in towards the wall to get the center of the stud. This is usually a 2 person task.. outlets. Note that determining what is inside the wall is even more important when using one of these long flexible bits. From the basement or attic. Right under the outlet where you want the hole for your wire. There are flexible drill bits that are designed for this very purpose. Cut the hole for the outlet and then stick the flexible drill bit through the hole to drill up or down or sideways through the studs. you could easily drill through a pipe. Have someone at the other end reach through the hole in the drywall. remember to look before you drill this pilot hole. A good way of marking where to drill the hole for your wire is to first drill a small pilot hole from the first floor into the basement. From down in the basement the bottom of the floorboards don't give a good indication where the walls are. Look for vents. grab the fish tape and pull it through with about a foot sticking out of the hole. Measuring is almost impossible.Red: Wire from the attic to the basement near the flue Blue: Wire from the attic to the basement using a second floor HVAC return Green: Wire from the attic to a second floor outlet Purple: Wire from the basement to a first floor outlet For a first floor installation you will be drilling up through the floorboard and then sole plate. Note: Always wear a face mask when around fiberglass insulation in the attic. Be sure you drill straight down through these boards. .

a radon tube. Do not cut into the flue or the radon tube because this could release harmful chemicals into your home. tape everything using electrical tape. Be sure that the the wire is taped on tight or it may come lose in the wall and you will have to start over. There is no need to remove it entirely. Running the wires through a HVAC return is more difficult but it is also safer. a water pipe. Once again. Consult your local building codes for more information about running wires near a flue. After pulling the wire through cut off the bent portion of the wire and throw it away. Make sure there are no bulges in the wire that will cause it to get stuck when pulling it through. It will most likely be covered by a piece of sheet metal nailed to two joists as seen in the picture below on the right. be sure it is at least 1" from the flue itself. For a chimney flue.To correctly tape a wire you should first strip off the insulation. Finally. lower the fish tape all the way to the basement. you may need to run the wire from the attic to the basement. maintain a minimum 1" distance from the flue at all times and use plenum fire resistant wire. Also. Running wires from the attic to the basement Now that you have run wires from your outlet to the basement or the attic. Remove the screws and take the grill off the wall. The next step is to find the bottom of this duct in the basement. your house included a future tube which is a PVC pipe running from the basement to the attic specifically for this purpose. shine the flash light through the return on the second floor and make sure you can see it in the basement to verify that it is the correct duct. You could also cut the edges of the hole with tin snips and bend back the rough edges. then you will need to find an existing pipe or duct that already runs the full height of the house so you can run your wire in the same area. First. This could be the flue for the furnace / hot water heater. find a return on the second floor on an internal wall that runs the full height of the house. If not. With a flashlight and a mirror look down the wall to make sure there is a clear path all of the way to the basement. From the attic. If you must run wires near the flue. so use a grommet to protect the wire. and then pull it back through. a heating duct / return. Improper wiring could cause you to fail a home inspection and prevent you from selling your home. Just enough to run a wire through it. Sometimes there is a horizontal square piece of sheet metal mounted to the floor boards to hold the flue in place. Most wires (especially coaxial cable) shouldn't be bent at extreme angles. Now that you know the duct will work. This guide will cover two different methods: running the wire near the flue (red wire in above example) and running the wire in a second floor HVAC return (blue wire in above example). this means finding a vent (like the one below on the left) where you know there is a wall on the first floor directly under the one on the second floor. go into the attic and find the top plate 2x4 that is right above the vent and make sure there are no wires running directly above it that . I prefer to stick the drill into the vent and drill up into the attic instead of drilling down from the attic. The sharp edges from this hole could cut the wire over time. Just don't drop the drill. or a fireplace chimney. the flue and chimney will get very hot and could set your wires on fire. drill a hole through the double top plate into the attic. Building codes vary between different cities and counties. the wire should be 12" from the flue. Basically. If you must drill through this. Builders will use the space between the studs and the drywall to form the return duct. connect your wire. Secure the wires tight using wire staples at both the bottom and top of the run to make sure that the wire doesn't bow in the middle and get close to the flue. so no sheet metal is required for the return until you get to the basement. Ideally. Then wrap the wire around the hook on the fish tape as shown above. Pry the sheet metal off using either a claw hammer to remove the nails or a flat head screwdriver to pry the sheet metal. Before drilling.

determine which way the joists run the ceiling. . You may be able to let gravity do the work and just push the wires down from the second floor vent and then push the other end through the hole into the attic. When you are done running the wires. Now you are ready to run the wires. Fishing wires through the ceiling If you need to run the wire to a first floor ceiling (for a ceiling speaker). then you are going to have to cut and patch some drywall. How much drywall you need to cut is based on how well you select the wire path.might get cut by the drill. You want to run your wire with the joist (green wire below) instead of against the joist (red wire below). Using a stud finder. If that doesn't work. nail the wire to one of the studs so that it isn't visible through the grill on the return. use the fish tape.

When cutting the drywall try to cut it out all in one piece and do as little damage as possible. Using a hammer and chisel. Make sure you have a drill bit large enough for all of the wires that you are going to run.You will first need to drill a hole from the basement through the sole plate into the area between the studs. You will then need to cut and remove an L shaped piece of drywall above that hole where the wall meets the ceiling. . Usually a 1" bit will let you run several coaxial and cat 5 wires. Reusing the cutout section will make patching the drywall easier. Then fish your wire from the basement to the top of the wall and pull it through into the room. notch a path in the top plate of the wall so that a wire can be run from the wall to the ceiling. as if you were wiring a first floor outlet.

If your joists are not running the right way. electrical wire. To use the flexible drill bit. so determine if there are any walls (with electrical outlets. In reality. Then trace out the speaker hole using the template provided with the speaker and cut out the ceiling drywall with a utility knife or a sheetrock keyhole saw. Sometimes there is barely enough room for a speaker between the joists. first cut the hole for the speaker and then push the drill bit through that hole and drill through the joists from the speaker hole to the wall. you may also need to drill from the wall back toward the speaker. The more joists that you drill through the more difficult it will be to fish the wire later. ducts. You will be drilling between joists without knowing what is there. then it is probably safer to cut the drywall and notch the joists instead. The last step is to cut the hole for the speaker. If the bit is not long enough. which has lots of real photos of what you may find in your walls. or you can cut out a section of ceiling drywall at each joist and notch it with a hammer and chisel to make room for the wire.) or any bathrooms above this area on the second floor. cover the notch with metal plate so that you can't later accidentally drill or nail through it.. I prefer to first cut a small pilot hole (just like the outlets) in case the hole is in a bad location. Using that small hole. verify that there are no ducts or water pipes in the ceiling that would prevent you from mounting a speaker and make sure the joists are really where you believe they are. If there is any chance that there might be any plumbing. Above than. By code you cannot notch any joist 2"x6" or smaller. Ceiling joists can be 12" apart or even closer. Use a stud finder on the ceiling to locate the joists. You should also check out our page on running the wires on a new home. . then try running the wire in a different wall instead. Then repair the drywall above the plate using the same piece of drywall that you cut out and some spackle.. or ductwork between the hidden joists. Use your wire fish to get the speaker wire to the hole for the speaker and then attach the speaker wires by following the directions that came with the speaker. For speakers. you cannot notch more than 1/6th of its height. If you must run your wire against the joists then you can either use a long flexible drill bit. After notching a stud or joist. you shouldn't need to notch more than 1/2" anyway.

. That way the sharp staple can't damage the wire. .Finishing up and other notes Insulated Electrical Box After the electrical box is installed and all of the wires are pulled through. The safest Beam or Header bet is to never notch or drill through a LVL Engineered Beam. use both a wire staple and a zip tie. use some expanding foam to fill the holes in the electrical box to insulate it. Any time you are attaching a wire to a stud or joist. Engineered joists CANNOT be notched.Engineered drilled through and some cannot. if you do drill your own hole. Some have pre-made punch outs so that you don't have to drill. Nail Wire Staple with the staple into the wood and then use the zip Zip Tie tie to attach the wire to the staple. Engineered I Joist Sometimes these engineered joists are used instead of 2x10's or 2x12's. make sure it is at least 6" away from the end of the joist. These joists are stiffer and quieter than conventional lumber. Instead you must drill holes through the middle of the joist. Some types of these beams can be . Oversized engineered beams are rarely used Laminated in homes except when special conditions Veneer Lumber require it.

then you will have to get your own or run your wire inside metal conduit.Aluminum Framing Aluminum studs should not be notched or drilled through. If the edges are sharp and there is no grommet covering the opening. The premade holes shouldn't have any sharp edges. . Instead use the pre cut holes in the studs to run your wires.