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13 valuable rock climbing tips for developing technique and improving climbing performance. The following tips are seen as the most essential techniques with biggest payoff in rock climbing performance: Performance Climbing Tip #1 Warm Up and Stretch. Stretching improves circulation and flexibility which translates to improved climbing technique. Prior to climbing, take a half hour to get your muscles and joints limbered, and your heart rate elevated a little. This simple step of stretching and warming up makes the difference between several grades of difficulty, and will help prevent injury. Climbers using good climbing technique will work many muscle groups, and position their limbs in extreme positions which are not used during daily life. Stretching and warming up helps the joints, ligaments, muscles move and last a little longer.
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Performance Climbing Tip #2 Preview and Read the Route. This is a skill to develop just like any physical technical climbing move. Advanced climbers are skilled at reading climbing routes, this is one of the most important of the mental skills for improving climbing technique. Before you climb, visualize the sequences through the entire route--or as much as you can see from the ground. Anticipate weight, balance, reach, and each move through the route. Here is the key: find the crux and decide the position you need to be in to complete it. Work backwards down the route. Make mental notes where your left and right hands and feet are positioned. When you climb, start the sequence going into the crux so your hands and feet and body is positioned correctly when you reach the crux. This takes some practice. After you complete the route, look at it again and re-analyze it. Develop a habit of previewing routes before climbing. The more you do it the better you will become. Performance Climbing Tip #3 Strength of Grip. The key to the right grip is simple: Relax. Over-gripping will wear out your forearms and when that happens, you are done. The grip is not often thought of as an attribute of good rock climbing technique, and few climbers give a second thought. However it’s well known that the grip is first muscle group to go. See forearm exercise for tips on improving your grip. It affects all types of climbers doing bouldering, top rope, lead, sport, competition, etc… The tendency, especially at critical crux points, is to unconsciously squeeze the hold a little tighter. The greater the tension, the more the smoothness and fluidity in your climbing movement will suffer which in turn degrades your climbing performance. Your back and shoulders must remain loose and relaxed. Get into the habit of mentally checking your grip in tough situations. This will help you slow down, re-check the basics, and calm yourself so you can think through the solution to the problem ahead. All that is really required with your grip is contact with the hold for balance or, in an overhanging situation, to hold your body in place with the least amount of energy. Remain conscious of your grip and the strength you use to hold yourself in place to make your movement more fluid and improve your endurance, balance and climbing performance. Performance Climbing Tip #4 Improve Your Balance. The starting point for developing a good rock climbing technique begins with your sense of balance, and how you control your balance on the wall. Your feet may be close together, or spread-eagle, or in an even stance. Your center of balance is always centered on your body mass. Your center of gravity should be centered in a forward-backward as well as a left-right direction. A good sense of balance is the key to moving smoothly and making difficult climbing moves appear effortless. The center of mass is approximately the middle of your body, around your belly. By being conscious of your center of gravity when you make a climbing move, you can anticipate the direction of force on a hand or foot hold as you make a move, and after you have made the move. A simple exercise to help improve your center of gravity and climbing technique are to find a 60 degree or greater slab and traverse it a using only your feet. If necessary use your hands for balance, but do not grip the wall. Traverse back and forth. This simple exercise will help you develop a sense of balance and give you muscle memory for good rock climbing technique. Performance Climbing Tip #5 Keep Your Body Close to the Wall. You should also keep your center of gravity balanced in a forward-backward direction. In other words, toward the wall or away from the wall. As a rule, keep your body close to the wall. Understandably, sometimes leaning back away from the wall is necessary to see the route. There is no set distance because of the variety of types of moves and hand holds in climbing. In most cases, the more accurate you need to be with your balance the closer to the wall your body and face should be. A good indicator to be aware of is the direction your knees point. In general, in a good climbing technique the knees do not point directly in towards the wall, and your body posture is rarely erect. The more erect, and the
Both types of climbing can be considered good rock climbing technique. At the dead point. Make the series of holds within hover to animate reach but which also require extending your body position. relaxed and deliberate. you will be able to combine the steps into fluid motion. but there are many variations to this basic technique. The dead point is done by sensing the top of a parabolic arch while you quickly move weight upward dynamically. The dead point technique is useful in many climbing situations. Develop smoothness to your climbing by simply making a conscious effort to control unneeded movement. see chin ups. Again. this is generally the case. Performance Climbing Tip #6 Static Climbing Technique. dead point making your body motion stop just at the point where you grab the hold. repeat this sequence. Some climbers tend to climb a little more erect to take advantage of their height. The movement should be smooth and fluid. or not needed for the type of climbing you do. It is more important to adapt your style to make best use of your abilities. both feet and both hands. Get through the moves quickly to save your upper body. Moves which are primarily static. Listen to the sound your feet make when climbing. How you shift your body weight upwards. This may be the easiest and best climbing technique tip for there is: Move your hands keeping your body motionless. bouldering requires strength moves. The control and fluidness of how you move is one of the primary indicators of good well developed rock climbing technique. such as shoulders. To correct this. Performance Climbing Tip #8 Speed of Climbing. slip off the hold or lose balance. and use the momentum to help place your body mass at the dead point. Use momentum to reach a move that is further than can be reached using a static movement. Make quiet smooth movements staying directly over your center of balance. There are two types of climbing movement: Static and dynamic. Avoid shifting weight and moving a limb at the same time. The muscles you need to develop varies widely on the type of . For dynamic climbing develop your upper body muscles. and arms to hold you in place. They should not be out of reach…these are not dynos. The best way to learn the dead point is to set up a series of moves on the bouldering wall. As you improve. and do only that. Developing good foot placement is essential for improving your climbing technique and balance. There is very little value in bulking up muscle groups that are not needed in climbing. left or right as a general rule will help you gain control. Dynamic Climbing Technique. grip and arm strength should be done quickly. Think about the movement that is needed to advance. Dynamic climbing uses the same principles of balance and movement. If your feet make a lot of noise when you climb this indicates you need to improve your static climbing technique. small hand and foot holds should be done slowly. Use your arms for balance and your legs to hold hover to animate your body weight. Some climbing fast using a dynamic climbing technique. In general. Find your foothold visually don’t stab or slide with your feet until you find a hold. At this point your upward direction has stopped and you to get a grip on the hold before your weight begins to settle. In static climbing this two step process is more pronounced. Static movement is making a move where body position is controlled by muscle movement. Performance Climbing Tip #10 Develop the Right Muscles. Some climbers are slow and deliberate and have a static technique. but it applies to dynamic climbing too. downwards. climbing moves that are dynamic and require a lot of upper body. but face climbing requires endurance. arms and forearms. simply become conscious of your movements and hold still. Practice over and over. Hold your body still. Experiment with different stances and distances so you can adjust and adapt to the conditions. your hand should be at the top of the arch and at the hold. with balance centered on body mass. Good technique in climbing movement is of it in two parts:1) move limbs. The dead point is the point your body changes directions vertically. Wiggling and resituating creates “opportunity” to fall. the easiest to learn is the dead point. helps you develop a smooth graceful characteristic. Move your body when all four points. yet it is one of the most useful for improving dynamic climbing ability. rather than by momentum. 2) shift body weight. deliberately and carefully using your legs to support your weight. Performance Climbing Tip #7 The Dead Point. Sport climbing and indoor climbing combine strength and endurance. are planted. Performance Climbing Tip #9 Develop Smooth Movement.more your knees point into the wall the further your center of gravity will be out away from the wall. In the repertoire of climbing moves. but incorporates the “dead point”. For example. then make a deliberate and precise foot placement.
Use only the degree of strength on you grip as necessary to steady your balance. Your grip is often the first to go. 1. This fear may be debilitating to people new to climbing but as you get more experience with falling the more comfortable you will become. Don’t let the rope loop on anything. They are steady level of difficulty with a crux one degree grade higher than the route is rated. 2. Now you have confidence to push yourself to try difficult moves even if it means falling. Tell your belayer you are going to take a practice fall. or an edge to lean against. Pick rest spots from the ground. • Be aware of what’s below you as you climb. Practice the moves you see while reinforcing the basic fundamentals of good rock climbing technique described here. get back on the wall. Performance Climbing Tip #11 Find Rest Spots. See rock climbing exercise for developing specific muscles for improving your rock climbing technique. Soon as you develop muscle memory for your new technique you will find you are pushing your abilities up to a new level. By keeping your body close to the wall you keep your center of balance over your center of mass and relieve pressure on your grip. Have him “take” and “lock off”. But take to heart the basics of good rock climbing technique. Learning to spot and take advantage of rest spots is a very important technique in rock climbing. The key to developing the climbing technique of resting is finding them in the preview or opportunities as they ascend the route. During the preview try to find a place to rest every 3 meters. . then push off in a controlled way. Get in the habit of previewing and learning to read the route before you climb it. a big hold. Make mental notes as you observe climbers. If you don’t you are not pushing yourself to your limit. and let the rope come tight.rock climbing you do. You can also use smaller and shift weight slowly rather than dynamically using the dead point. will determine the muscles to emphasize during training. you will feel most of them coming. Yes. which is part of the underlying thrill of climbing. The 3 meter or one panel guide is also rest technique for bouldering and traversing. So. as you climb make sure you are ready for the fall at any time by following these techniques: • Make sure the rope is clear of your gear and feet/arms at all times. These 13 rock climbing tips will help you accelerate your climbing performance. save forearm strength as much as possible. Performance and Climbing Tips Understand the basic principals of good rock climbing technique. but are less strenuous than a more direct approach. you will fall. Often a new climbing technique may feel awkward and more difficult. This is a mental control skill to develop. That is an important aspect of developing and improving your rock climbing technique: You need to be able to push yourself to your maximum ability…which means you will fall. These may be an overhang you can get your knee under. Regardless of the speed of climbing. Tight muscles and ligaments don’t perform as well. Control how you fall keeping your feet down. Developing this skill will help you get in the right position to make moves at the crux. or the height of a panel on an indoor climbing wall. A finely developed sense of balance will help you make difficult static and dynamic moves. away from the wall. but the actual moment you pop off the wall should be a surprise. Performance Climbing Tip #12 Taking a Good Fall. The reason climbers peel off high routes within their ability level is they do not managed their rest properly. 4. and practice to develop these techniques yourself. an arête. Then say to yourself. Too many climbers think they can muscle up a wall. • Push out away from the wall at the moment you slip. • Keep your feet out in front of you to catch the wall as the rope comes tight and you swing in. 5. Always Warm Up and Stretch before you start climbing. 3. Learn to spot sequences which are not technically rest. There is a basic fear of falling in humans. Falling is part of climbing and it is a skill to learn just like any other aspect of good climbing technique. To improve your own climbing performance learn and practice good climbing technique. Summary of Rock Climbing Technique. There are some basic techniques you can use to help you get over this fear and help you take a fall safely. The best way to learn and improve rock climbing technique is observe the technique used by good climbers. Performance Climbing Tip #13 Watch and Learn. Take a deliberate fall in a safe spot. climbers who look for and take rests will do better than those who do not. ever. No matter how good you are. A bolt. and practice them. “that wasn’t so bad”. Most falls should be a surprise. Most competition routes do not separate climbers based power or tricks.
Examples of performance based goals are: "Increase pull-ups by 1 per week". This is not a good performance based goal. 7. not achievement. Mental Control Often the difference between winning and losing depends on your mental control. 9. An example of an achievement goal is: "win the competition". In climbing. Developing the technique of dynamic movement is done by using momentum to peak at the dead point. confidence. This means you will fall. Self-confidence is not a matter of "fooling" yourself into believing something false. 12. Mental Imagery (described below) is also useful for building self-confidence and control.Push yourself and your ability with difficult routes. This information is not all-inclusive and is intended to provide a general overview of gaining mental control to improve your performance and spark your further personal study. not your arms.it is based on accurately knowing yourself. Taking a fall correctly is one of the most important techniques to learn how to do safely. When doing moves and sequences that require a great deal of upper body strength. and will give you confidence to push yourself to your limit. However. etc. 13. watch and learn from other good climbers. or "increase dead-hang time by 10 seconds per week". This will give you a sense of accomplishment. and help you develop a keen sense of your own abilities. Just the opposite . Using imagery without rationally considering your actual abilities can lead to over-confidence and . "increase endurance training by 1 minute per session". The most effective way to build self-confidence is by setting performance-based goals. Climbers who have mastered this seem to move smoothly and effortlessly. Use your legs to hold your weight. It is possible to use imagery to improperly build a level of over-confidence.6. Combining both static and dynamic elements of climbing technique will determine your speed of climbing. A climber's self-confidence is probably the greatest asset in developing your mental control over your body's reaction to stress. Practice good rock climbing technique every time you climb and your climbing performance will measurably improve. Self-confidence doesn't happen by simply deciding to be confident .Muscles will perform longer with short rests. 8. This is useful if your lack of self-confidence or other "mind game" factors are interfering with your ability to achieve a goal. Then set new goals and achieve them. or. Sports psychology is a large field requiring many years of study. a note of caution. Through this process you learn your own abilities. Develop as many performance based goals as you can manage. There are many aspects to achieving mental control to improve your climbing performance. 10.Finally. Believing in yourself helps you develop mental control. not holding weight. and. Set attainable and measurable performance goals and make sure you achieve them. especially climbing competitions.The right rock climbing techniques combined with building the right muscles give a climber a huge advantage. move quickly through the sequence. By knowing your own capabilities you avoid surprise failure and develop confidence in yourself. routes are designed at the peak of a climber's ability. Your goals to attain mental control should be measured in terms of performance. These techniques help you develop and master mental control. Design your goals to be achievable within about a week or two weeks time. Develop a skill at finding rest opportunities while climbing to greatly extend your endurance. 3) control doubt and negative thoughts.it takes a deliberate and planned effort. which is the point at which you grip the hold. 2) use mental imagery. Getting and keeping your head together can be much easier if you use some of the tools of sports psychology: 1) Develop self-confidence. Self-confidence allows you to take appropriate risks and climb at the top of your ability. 11. Use arms for balance and shifting weight. Your legs are much stronger and will carry you further. Develop Self-confidence to Enhance Mental Control.
Answer negative thoughts with positive thoughts. at night in bed. before a difficult move. relaxing. Imagine a peaceful. Awareness is the first step to gaining more mental control. feelings of stress. feeling of joy. Imagery can and should be used during previews. clipping. Sometimes negative thoughts are difficult to get out of your head. Use this technique to conquer doubt. your momentum. Visualizing is training for your mind. . Over confidence does not lead to mental control. Visualizing reinforces climbing movement in your mind . Not thinking of something is more difficult than thinking about something. This is an effective tool when used correctly. Use imagery and positive thinking within realistic boundaries to push yourself to new heights and break through barriers. Think and imagine yourself climbing and moving like a climber you admire . Self-confidence should come from a realistic understanding of your abilities based on incrementally achieving performance-based goals. When you get a thought that is counter productive. Imagery can also be used to help you relax and lower your stress level. But how do you not think of something? If someone says "do not think of a red balloon". If you are in a crowd or around other people do it sub-vocally. it is a misreading of your own ability. It can lead to an unexpected failure. you immediately visualize a red balloon whether you want to or not. and positive self-image. I may help to physically speak the positive out loud several times. If you are over-confident you will not give the climb 100% effort and may lead you to attempt something that you are not capable of doing. Mental Control using Imagery and Positive Thinking. and balance. Do do not dwell on bad moves.the wrong thing. As you become more aware of your thoughts you can learn to control them. This can be helpful in competitions or in many other situations in climbing. to reduce stress. Normally thoughts will come and go and you will hardly notice. etc… all the way to the top. proper rests. Analyze what went wrong then visualize the correct movement from the beginning of the sequence through the end of the section. where you chalk up . or to build up your self-confidence. Over-confidence is just as bad as a lack of confidence . In the same way positive imagery "teaches" your mind through a visualized reinforcement.be as vivid with your imagery as you can. Visualize only correct climbing technique and form. Mental Control over Doubt and Negative Thoughts. so think what you want yourself to be. Use this imagery technique to reduce stress and maintain mental control. Imagine the feeling of the holds/rock. breathing. you imagine smooth controlled climbing. Become aware of your thoughts. happy or fun place. You are what you think. momentum. your breathing. Be aware that imagery can be used to an unhealthy extreme. Imagery can be used to push your limits. make a conscious effort to visualize it's opposite. For example: "red balloon": now think of a green balloon and say "green balloon" out loud. criticism. for specific moves. to break through a mental block. Speak the opposite if possible. It is now green.maybe worse. good technique. It is a stronger reinforcement when spoken. smells… every detail that goes with your "happy place".unexpected failure. on a bus or passenger in a car (but not as driver). which can destroy your self-confidence. or at least speak it sub-vocally. Visualize the feeling. Respond to negative thoughts with positive thoughts based on clear and rational assessments of your known ability. It is a skill that needs to be developed just like physical skill. the warm sun. Watch for feelings of inadequacy. Gain mental control of yourself and the climbing route by focusing and creating positive mental imagery. which will cause a loss of confidence. negative thoughts also teach your mind .or visualize yourself making a particular move. Make it as vivid as possible by visualizing every detail. worry. waiting in a line at the store. Make a conscious point not to allow negative thoughts to dominate. for general technique.so use it to reinforce good movement. shaking. negative thoughts and reinforce your good technique. confidence. Get control of your mental thoughts. Using imagery.
Stay on the wall 20 minutes straight without a break. You can also work strength/endurance on forearms by traversing on near vertical wall. Sit on a bench or chair. Once you "peel" off the bar. do this for time not repetitions. See Chin Ups. you literally peel off the bar through lack of ability to hold a second longer without giving up. Do 3 sets. then drop the other arm and shake it out. Pick up the dumbbell holding it with a fist. then trade arms. Anytime you exercise for strength you need to make forearms sore. Using mental imagery and controlling doubt will help you press through mental barriers. Forearm Workout. endurance. Reach back up. Think about it. Static hangs on a bar is the best way to improve the strength of your forearms. This is probably the best forearm exercise for rock climbers. Self-confidence will help you climb at your best. Wait until your muscle soreness has gone away before working on strength again. All repetitions should be high enough that you can just do 8 . This training will workout the forearms to improve strength. Do this strength exercise from a seated position. shake out for 5 minutes. The workout targets forearm strength. Another good way to improve forearm strength is using a dumbbell. Several forearm exercises below combine to make a very productive forearm workout. Do at least four sets. Let the bar roll down to your finger tips then roll it back up into your palms again. Continuous low stress repetitive gripping improves endurance. Make sure it is vertical vs overhang to decrease the stress. Forearm Endurance. the first thing to go is your grip. This will add a lot of endurance while improving forearm strength. Don't climb or workout with sore forearms. Muscles need to break down in order to improve in order to get stronger. Start out with 1 minute and work yourself up to 5 minutes or more. This exercise best simulates the actual forces and stress on forearms during climbing. Repeat the workouts for 8 . Another version of above forearm strength exercise targets endurance a little more than you get with the static hang: While hanging. If you can not do 8 reps you need to decrease the weight. Developing these simple techniques are as important as your physical training. Forearm Strength. Start the 20 minute workout session with a pull up to get blood Shake out. you need strength and endurance in your grip as well as strengthening individual fingers. Then get back on and do it 3 more times. Since you are working until failure. change hands. shake out-- . Forearm curls. Top athletes. These are simple tools you can use to help break through mental barriers. grab with both. especially the thumb. coaches and trainers in every sport agree the proper application of sports psychology provides a significant boost in performance level. Hang until your muscles absolutely fail . For strength/endurance. You must give it your most intense effort to hang on.The Rock Climber's Forearm Workout All athletes--not just rock climbers--who play a sport that demands forearm strength and use of the upper body can benefit from doing forearm workouts. it will also improve your endurance. It may well take you to a new level of climbing. You can use the same principle on overhanging bouldering caves (not to high though since you must go to failure). and individual finger strengthening exercises.Summary of Mental Control. Three key routines define the rock climber’s forearm workout. Climbing sport routes and indoor climbing routes take 5 to 10 minutes.10 repetitions. maintain mental control under stressful situations and build new self-confidence. Workout the forearm muscles in a specific deliberate program and you will see a big improvement in performance. As a climber.Note: I didn't say "hang until you can't stand it". Forearm Exercise -.10. When your muscles fail. This is the key to getting your climbing ability to the next level. If you can easily do 10 reps you need to add weight. Your grip strength comes from the muscles in the forearm working together as a unit. drop one arm and shake out your forearm for 5 seconds. This will quickly improve your forearm strength.
Establish a smooth rhythm. or 2) try one arm assisted chin ups. See the picture and description for one arm chin ups above. Drop the right arm and shake. Another approach is to do one slow chin up. Finger Strengthening Exercise. A forearm exerciser will help strengthen fingers. clothes line bar. Come down in between sets. Slow Chin Ups for Endurance Improve endurance by slowing the speed of the chin up. Chin Ups and Chin Up Bar Training. Strengthening exercises for individual fingers will work the muscles controlling opposing movements. such as any sturdy overhead bar. then do another slow chin up. easy to install. is inexpensive. eaves. simple forearm exerciser is a latex rubber ring you squeeze. etc. Thumbs grip sideways to rock or holds and provide the friction needed to stay on the hold. After you work up to about 12 standard chin ups. then the left and shake. Endurance training takes willpower. Chin ups for Strength Do until muscle failure--in other words do as many as absolutely possible. drop one arm and shake. For the thumb: press the rubber with the thumb into the tips of the other 4 fingers. You can drop one arm at a time to shake. Warm up takes 5. Each time you work out do as many as possible. Get a chair and assist your chin ups with your legs. including the thumb. Chart your progress.Chin Up Bar Exercises Chin Ups are excellent training for upper body strength building. . There are several excellent upper body exercises that can be done on the chin up bar. When you first start chin up exercises you may not be able to do it. There is value in both types of exercises. but the key is still continuous low-stress gripping for 20 minutes straight. To get started. It is hard to force yourself to keep going. then hang for 5 seconds (about 2 deep breaths). don't come down hang there. Do sets of four. rafters. stretching takes 10 minutes. For fingers. When you work up to about 15 chin ups increase resistance two ways: 1) add small (5 to 10 lbs) ankle or waist weights. Very soon you will be able to do a chin up by yourself. This can be a specific bar installed for chin ups or an improvised bar. Chin ups are an excellent way to improve upper body strength. Allow your heart rate to recover to 40% of maximum before the next set. Warm Up and Stretch Before Chin Ups Take 15 minutes of light to warm up before jumping on to the chin up bar. Climbers who have good endurance have paid for it through training." Chin Ups . A good. Do chin ups in sets of four. the chin up bar produces exceptional results. Do this in four sets. including the thumb.into your forearms and bump your heart rate up. Fingers and forearms are related and perform similar functions in climbing. phase over to endurance. then the other arm. hold the forearm exerciser with one edge against the base of the thumb using the 4 fingers on the opposite edge. If you do not meet your goal. then do another slow chin up. A good warm up and stretching session will reduce the chance of injury. For upper body conditioning. Shake a few times. See muscle stretching. The exerciser is very good for both strength and endurance of forearms and fingers. Forearm Exerciser. patio beams. locate a "chin up bar". The difference between working forearms and fingers is with forearm exercises the fingers move together. including tree branches. This helps both forearms and fingers and thumb. Don't worry about it. Chin ups will greatly improve your performance in any sport that requires upper body strength. Your fingers press the rubber exerciser into the palm of your hand. Thumb strength is important in rock climbing. Continue the pattern.
Before you "peel" off. For upper body. Slowly go up. then close together. Chin Ups . Repeat to the other side for 5 seconds. you will probably only be able to hang 45 seconds. Chin up bars or an alternate bar can be easily found. variation of the chin up exercise lift both legs to the side and provides more resistance for strength building. Chin Up Bar Static Hang. For abdomen and chin up. Relax your shoulders and body. Set your personal goal and work toward it faithfully. count five breaths (15 seconds) at the top. This hanging from the chin up bar. shoulder. forearms. Do four sets. Using the chin up bar. alternate sets with arms spread apart. away from the body. By doing several types of chin ups as part of your climbing training plan. Lower smoothly back to the starting position. While with your other arm and assist. hold the position for 5 Another way to provide additional resistance is seconds. When you first start this exercise.Chin Up Bar Summary Training your upper body and forearms is probably the single best exercise training you can do to improve climbing ability. hang with one arm as long as possible. To "work into" a one arm Crunch. For strength Chin Up Bar Side training. Work your stamina and strength up to the point where you can hang for 4 minutes (or more). Let your heart rate come down a little.Chin Ups. Chin up Lockoffs This technique improves strength-endurance. start by grabbing the wrist torso "static" strength. Grasp the bar palms and fingers forward. The chin should go over the bar. . Pull up in a smooth motion. Keep arms straight and hang straight down without swinging. do not jerk. Get off the wall or bar and shake out. to add 5 or 10 pound ankle or waist belt weights. you will greatly improve your climbing ability through enhanced upper body strength. To perform a lockoff. then slowly come down. One Arm Chin Ups. This is called the "pronated" grip. trade arms and shake out while hanging from the other arm. then do it again.
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