Table of Contents

Table of Contents..........................................................................................................................1 1.Introduction................................................................................................................................4 1.1. History................................................................................................................................4 1.2. Corporate Profile................................................................................................................5 1.3. Manufacturing Facilities - Fabric........................................................................................5 1.4. Departments ......................................................................................................................6 1.4.1.Unit II details ..............................................................................................................6 Plant is having following departments: -................................................................................6 1.4.2.Plant Layout of Morarjee Textiles Ltd...........................................................................6 .4.3. Organization chart.........................................................................................................7 2. Departments Studied:...............................................................................................................8 3. Design Studio............................................................................................................................9 3.1. Design studio division........................................................................................................9 3.2. Design Studio Barriers ....................................................................................................13 4. Pretreatment Processing .......................................................................................................14 4.1. Processing unit.................................................................................................................14 4.2. Mercerization....................................................................................................................15 4.2.1. Process Flow: -..........................................................................................................16 4.3. Scouring ..........................................................................................................................17 4.4. Bleaching..........................................................................................................................17 4.4.1. Recipe for bleaching bath.........................................................................................18 1

4.4.2. Precautions................................................................................................................18 4.4.3. Problems....................................................................................................................19 5. Dyeing.....................................................................................................................................19 5.1. Dyeing Process Flow.......................................................................................................20 5.1. Dyeing Methods and Procedure......................................................................................21 5.2. Developing solutions........................................................................................................21 5.4. Types of dyeing................................................................................................................24 5.5. After treatment..................................................................................................................24 5.5.1. Recipes and conditions.............................................................................................25 5.6. Stenter.............................................................................................................................26 5.7. Sanforising.......................................................................................................................27 6.1. Quality Objective:-............................................................................................................28 6.3. Printing department process flow ....................................................................................29 6.8. Screen Printing.................................................................................................................32 6.9. Color Preparation ingredients..........................................................................................32 6.10. Process flow for Reactive Printing.................................................................................33 6.10.2. Reactive color Paste Preparation............................................................................34 6.11. Process flow for Pigment Printing .................................................................................34 6.11.1. Pigment paste preparation .....................................................................................35 6.12. Process flow of Pigment Discharging Printing ..............................................................35 6.12.1. Ingredients of Pigment Discharge Printing Paste ......................................................36 2

6.12.2. Pigment discharge paste ........................................................................................36 6.13. List of machine, equipments and their specifications ...................................................37 6.14. Texfab Loop Ager ..........................................................................................................38 6.15. After treatment................................................................................................................38 6.17. Texfab Soaper................................................................................................................39 6.18. Texfab Soaper specifications and activities...................................................................39 7. Quality assurance...................................................................................................................41 7.1. Physical testing................................................................................................................41 7.1.3. Check points..............................................................................................................43 7.1.4. Seam slippage testing ..................................................................................................44 7.2. Chemical testing...............................................................................................................45 7.2.1. DESCRIPTION OF SOME TEST..............................................................................46 7.2.2. Calculations...............................................................................................................47 Conclusion..................................................................................................................................48

1.Introduction
Morarjee is a name synonymous with fashion. With over a hundred years of experience and modern integrated manufacturing facilities, Morarjee makes cutting edge fashion a reality. It has technical collaboration with Swiss and Japanese companies that sets its apart in the industry.Morarjee is part of the Ashok Piramal Group, a diversified and leading business group in India.

1.1. History
The Morarjee Gokaldas Spinning & Weaving Co. Ltd. is the oldest textile company in India, established as early as 1871. It is among the first five companies to be listed on the Indian stock exchanges. In 1935, the mill was acquired by Piramal Chaturbhuj, heralding a new era of growth and prosperity. Since inception, quality and service were the hallmark of the company. Riding on these factors, the company has survived the ups and downs in the textile sector. In the early 90s the biggest challenge came from World War I. Not only did the mill survive, it came out much stronger. In 1940, the mill joined the Swadeshi movement and set up a Khaki department. It won special acclaim from Mahatma Gandhi for this. In 1942 the Viceroy awarded a gold medal to the company for the khaki drill. The 1950s was the period of unparalleled growth and expansion. The dye house was modernized with the installation of a continuous open width boiling & bleaching plant, a modern impregnating unit & a steaming J. Box. This was to improve the fastness of mineral khaki for which Morarjee Mills have been known for. Next on the cards was acquisition. Morarjee took over the Sayaji Mills located in Mumbai in 1981 and transformed it from an obsolete loss making unit to a highly profitable modern textile mill. Continuous up -of technology and research and development of products has transformed 4

Morarjee into a leading player in the fabric business. Most of the leading global and domestic players are its clients today

1.2. Corporate Profile

Morarjee is a leading player in premium cotton shirting fabric and high fashion printed fabric globally. Morarjee subsidiary company, Integra Apparels and Textiles Ltd specializes in woven tops, casual shirts and garments for women. Morarjee has a 49% stake in Just Textiles Ltd. which is currently engaged in processing various fabrics installed at its factory in Ambernath, Mumbai. Morarjee counts most of the popular international and domestic brands as it clients, across 20 coutries. Dunhill, Zara, Esprit, Hugo Boss, Next, Paul Smith and Zodiac are some of its customers. In the domestic market, Morarjee caters to popular brands like Louis Philippe, Van Huesen and Zodiac.

1.3. Manufacturing Facilities - Fabric

Morarjee has an integrated manufacturing plant at Nagpur in Central India. The plant is equipped to produce premium shirting and high fashion printed fabric for clients across the globe. To cater to the changing demand and requirements of the fashion industry, Morarjee believes in investing in product development and technology up-gradation.In the last decades, two new fabric manufacturing units have been set up in Nagpur. These are supported by stateof-the-art Design Studios, to keep abreast of the trends in the industry. The company today is focusing on premium and high value niche product segment and has two divisions - Yarn dyed shirting division and Printing Division for voile, satin, poplin and other high-end products.

1.4. Departments
1.4.1.Unit II details Plant is having following departments: 1 2 3 4 Spinning Weaving Quality assurance laboratory (wet and dry) Pretreatment 5.Dyeing 6.Printing 7.Finishing 8.Folding

1.4.2.Plant Layout of Morarjee Textiles Ltd.

New process house

Engraving Office Colour Kitchen Printing

Exit

Dyeing

Exit

Chemical store

Finishing

Bleaching Folding

Blow Room

Spinning

Weaving

Admin. Spinning Singeing Preparatory processes For Weaving

Exit

Entry

Exit

.4.3. Organization chart Chairman

Managing Director Chief Executive Officer Unit I Unit II

HOD

Spinning

HOD

Weaving

Design Studio

Processing & Dyeing

Engineering 7 Marketing Inspection & dispatch Qualityservices HR Assurance Printing

2. Departments Studied:
1. Design studio Creation Separation Exposing Strike off

2. Processing 3. Printing Rotary Printing Flatbed printing Gum & Printing Paste Preparation After Treatment Pretreatment (scouring, bleaching, and mercerization) Dyeing After Treatment

4. Quality Assurance Physical Testing Chemical Testing

3. Design Studio
Morarjee has always played a great role in the fashion movement, for over a century. To spearhead this, It has set up a state-of-the-art design studio in Italy and India. These studios are run by creative a team that provide speedy solutions and ideas, customizes designs and also gives access to the latest international styles, exclusive colors, patterns and designs. There are 16 members in the design studios.

3.1. Design studio division

1. Creation-The design is created and designed according to the specifications given by the customer. The people from marketing department visit the place and understand about the design that needs to be printed according to the specifications provided by the buyer. The design to be printed is decided by : specifications given by the buyer Trend forecasting Fashion forecasting Magazines report

2. Separation: The colors present in the specific design are made in several specific channels. The color components present in the design are segregated individually to understand the color requirement according to that design. It is decided by the printing department, design studio, PPC, marketing and quality control. The process of separation is done on the basis of availability of machines & the design specifications given by the buyer. The finalized design is then sent for engraving or exposing. 3. Engraving or exposing: This is the process of engraving the specified design on the screens so that it can be used for printing processes.

Process flow of exposing: Unpacking the screen Changing the curvature of screen that is flat to cylindrical Degreasing Coating Exposing Developing Endring Preparation of Dichromate Solution 100 ml of distilled water + 20 gm ammonium bicarbonate powder 20 % aqueous solution for mixing in photo emulsion Photo emulsion 1 kg photo emulsion + 150 gm distilled water + 50-65 gm ready aqueous solution

The chemical is prepared and filtered, then kept in a freezer for 4 hours before coating. In mixing, the sensitizer with emulsion make bubbles, so to avoid bubbles it is kept in a freezer. If we use the chemical directly with bubbles, it will burst during coating and there will be uneven coating. In freezer the chemical become viscous.
Figure 1 . Coating Machine

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Coating parameter I. Temperature required - 29-32 0C II. Drying of screen for 40 60 min (rotary screen printing) III. Nickel screen is used and mesh size of 40-holes/linear inch. IV. The coating is done in the absence of white light. V .Light exposure - 35 sec (flat bed screens) Screens The screen is made up of nickel alloy, which is minutely perforated in nature, which is used for printing. The screen comes in three sizes 61cm, 81.4cm, and 91.4cm circumference. Stipper Acid is used to clean the screens. The cost of one screen for rotary print is Rs. 4,000.and 500 1000 m clothes pieces can be printed using one screen. The length of the screens comes in 641.2 mm and 1750 mm. The cost of one screen for flat bed printing machine is Rs. 300 and once used it cannot be used again for further printing. The preparation for flat bed screen Printing is 12 minutes. Degreaser When nickel screen is unpacked, it is smooth in nature. It is put in a degreaser to make the screen rough so that chemical can easily impregnate into the screen and the imprint of colors on the fabric make denser. The oils, waxes & impurities are also removed and then dry naturally. Endring In Endring, rings are attached in the ends of the screen so that it can be fitted in printing machine. ALALDITE Epoxy Gum + Hardener -------- Gum Paste 11
Figure 2 . Nickel screen

screen size is 82 X 42.and the design printing area is 60.Total time taken for screen

Gum Paste is applied in the ends of the screen where ring is attached by heating rods at 750W. Color scanner Technology (CST): In CST, designs are programmed in CAD and black ink jet draws that design on the rotary screen. The U.V. light passes through the whole rotary screen. The U.V. light will pass only through the spaces where black ink jet does not draw the design i.e. the spaces will be blocked by the U.V. light and design remain perforated.
Figure 3. Color scanner technology

4. Strike Off The order or design specifications are given by the buyer to the marketing department and the design studio. It deals mainly with the sampling of the specified design. Samples are made on baby rotary printing machine ( screen -15 X 15 ) Ingredients used for printing is sodium alginate (4%) ,urea (10-15 %) ,sodium bicarbonate ,Turkey Red oil (TRO ) and water (80 % ). 10 -15 made samples are sent to the buyer for approval out of which5-7 samples are selected for bulk printing. This process takes a time span of 10 days for the completion of whole process.

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BABY STRIKE OFF or BABY ROTARY MACHINE Type of screen used Rotary screen Length of the rod-15Mm Pressure required-80kg/cm2 Speed-60 rpm
Figure 4. Baby strike off machine

Process Flow for Baby strike off Hot Wash with Soap (2gpl) Sample Taken Out Ageing At 950C (2 times)

Colour Approval

Half Piece Finish

Drying

Cold Wash

3.2. Design Studio Barriers

Language barrier Exact colour matching Need to work fast according to buyer and market. Need to check every design for its feasibility.

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4. Pretreatment Processing
PROCESSING
SINGEING*

DESIZING*

MERCERISATION

*Not available in unit II

SCOURING & BLEACHING

4.1. Processing unit

Department Processing Department No. 8 2 3 Machines BENNINGER JIGGER (capacity-150 kg) KLEINEWEFERS Mercerization (capacity-2500m) STAR-HISAKA jet dyeing

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1 2 2 2 3 1

ROPE OPENER SHAKTI JUMBO JIGGER (capacity-250 kg) YAMUNA JIGGER (capacity- 350 kg) KUSTER PADDING( cold pad batch) KIER scouring & bleaching (capacity-2100kg) PRIMATEX stenter

4.2. Mercerization
Called after its inventor John Mercer. The cloth is soaked in strong caustic soda and washed under tension. The treatment is usually carried out under tension, with caustic soda at 28- 30 (approx. 270- 330
Figure 5. Mercerization machine

g/l). This process is important for cotton fabric which is treated with a caustic solution for improving properties such as fiber strength, shrinkage resistance, luster, and dye affinity. The yarn or fiber is dipped in a solution of sodium hydroxide and then treated with water or acid to neutralize the sodium hydroxide. A variation of this process is hot mercerization. It adds more value to the fabric. This process involves saturation of fabric in caustic soda solution at higher temperatures and then cooling, stretching and final washing. Hot mercerization is done. Cold mercerization faces the problem of non-uniformity due to highly viscous solution. Concentration of caustic soda is around 280-300 g/l. Treatment temperature is 50 0C. Mangle pressure-3.5bar. 15

 10% shrinkage during mercerization. 160-165m fabric with width of 2m inside the machine at a time. A total of 12 rollers are there in bleaching machine.

4.2.1. Process Flow: WETTING WITH WATER

PADDING (50 0C,

caustic)

SQEEZING IN THREE CHAMBERS

WASHING (950C,

CRP (CAUSTIC RECOVERY PLANT)

20-30 Sec)

NEUTRALIZATION

DRYING

16

4.3. Scouring
The aim of alkali scouring is to produce an absorbent material with an average degree of whiteness and extremely low mechanical and chemical damage. Scouring should be: Saponify fats and waxes. Split proteins and pectins. For this, the following are required: Pressure- 20 kg/cm2 8 hour boiling at 120 0C
Figure 6. Kier

4.4. Bleaching
It is the process of decolorization for removing all natural colors from the gray good. It is a chemical based process. Bleaching is further Natural bleached classified fibers with are into all oxidative generally methods or bleaching and reductive bleaching. oxidative sodium

using such chemicals as sodium hypochlorite, chlorite hydrogen peroxide. In addition to bleaching, Optical Brightening Agents (OBA) are also applied to give the textile material a brilliant white look. Oxidative bleaching with peroxide is done
Figure 7. Jet Bleaching with OBA

17

 It is combined scouring and bleaching process Peroxide bleaching is used instead of Hypochlorite because it provides permanent whiteness and also does not require any antichlor treatment 7 washing zones. Initially three washers 90 0C, 90 0C, and 60 0C respectively Last four washers at 90 0C, 90 0C, 90 0C, and 60 0C respectively Last chamber is meant for neutralization with acetic acid Running speed of take up roller 40 rpm It varies with required finish of the fabric It has a chain (conveyor belt) system in steaming chamber. Fabric rests over the belt is plated form and so provides residence time of 13 min. Soda and Megawet RW is used as commercial reagents in Morarjee textiles. Fabric has to be tested for I. II. PH: - phenolphthalein (colorless to violet) at PH 8-9 Whiteness index (spectrophotometer)
Figure 8. Jet Dyeing Machine

4.4.1. Recipe for bleaching bath Chemicals Peroxide (Megawet RW) Wetting agent Stabilizer NaOH Steaming temperature 92 0C 4.4.2. Precautions Steam flow should be uniform 18 Quantity (ml/kg) 30 4.5 24 18

 Sufficient residence time Uniform pressure. 4.4.3. Problems Patches may appear sometimes due to improper temperature control in steamer and so roof temperature is kept slightly higher than base temperature.

5. Dyeing
Often applied to the finished cloth to give a uniform all-over colour. But some weaving is carried out with yarns that have already been dyed. And printing can also be considered as a dyeing process. The first artificial dye, mauve aniline derived from coal tar, was discovered by William Henry Perkins in 1856. With artificial dyes there was a much greater range of bright colours and dyes were developed which were 'fast' and also fade-resistant.

Figure 10. Jumbo Jigger Figure 9. Small Jigger

19

Figure 11. Kuster machine (CPB)

Figure 2. Kuster (continuous dyeing)

5.1. Dyeing Process Flow

DYEING

Jumbo

&

CPB (Kuster Dyeing)

Small Jigger

Yamuna Jigger

AFTER TREATMENT (SOAPER WASH)

FINISHING

STENTER, SANFORISING 20 WASH BATCH

5.1. Dyeing Methods and Procedure

Dyeing Methods CPB Dyeing(1000ml) Procedure Batching Washing Color + 60 ml water + 20ml urea 10 ml soda (for light shades) 20 ml soda + Caustic (20 :5) (for medium shades) 20 ml soda + Caustic(20:8) (for dark shades) Light shade - 8 hrs Medium shade - 8-12 hrs Dark shade - 8-14 hrs Normal - 60 0C Hot wash - 95 0C Soaping - 95 0C Neutralization - Ph 4.5 Washing (cold wash)

5.2. Developing solutions

Reactive dye: 20 g/l Glauber salt + 20 g/l soda ash + 5 g/l caustic soda + 3 g/l resist salt.

21

Colour Name

Reactobond col. stren gth

Jakofix col. Stren gth(% ) 126 113 107 104 136 95 131 103 124 100

Reactobond quant ity(gr am) 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000 1000

Jakofix quant ity(gr am) 793 885 935 961 735 1052 763 970 806 1000

Red H8B Blue H3RP Brown H4R Orange H2R L.Yellow H4G G.Yellow HR Black HN Purple H3R

100% 100% 100% 100% 100% 100% 100% 100%

T.Blue P5G/HN 100% Black CECL/ XLW 100%

Dyestuff:-

22

5.3. Cold pad batch: Silicate padding is done. Bath temperature is kept 200C. Dye liquor containing urea is fed into the tank along with alkali.

23

 Dye liquor: alkali- 4:1. Air pressure-7 bar. Speed-40m/min. Mangle expression (CPB-2)-60%. 5.3.1. Batching time: 12-14 hrs for medium and dark shades 8-10 hrs for light shade Washing is done after batching. 5.3.2. Problems: Patches-Adjust the speed to maintain proper residence time. Stitch marks-Plastic paper is placed over the seam.

5.4. Types of dyeing

Reactive dyeing DEPTH 0-0.5 % 0.5-1.5% 1.5-3 % 3-7 % Black SALT (g/l) 30 40 60 80 100 SODA (50 %) 10 12 15 20 5 CAUSTIC (ml/l) 1 1 1 1 2

5.5. After treatment

SOAPER Stenter wash at 300C.- 400C without soap and acid. Counter flow washing is done. 18 drying rolls.2 cooling rolls 24
Figure 11. Soaper machine

 135m fabric inside the machine at a time 150m inside relax chamber 25000L water in each chamber Fabric speed-35m/min Expander rolls at feeding end to remove creases 5.5.1. Recipes and conditions Pre-softening (on stenter): Pursoft Acetic acid 10 g/l 2 g/l

Washing: -

Soda Wetting agent Speed

15g/l 4g/l 50m/min.

After construction of fabric through one of the many techniques described above, it is known as greige good or gray good. This simply denotes any unfinished fabric. Many finishing processes are employed for improving the appearance, feel and durability of the fabric.

25

5.6. Stenter
This is basically a smoothing out of the cloth. Because after bleaching, or any wet process, the cloth will get wrinkled or creased. Stentering (done by "stenterers") removes these bumps. It is used for: I. II. For OBA application For heat setting
Figure 12. Stenter

Both pin and clip arrangements are used Oil heating mechanism for drying 7 chambers in stenter. Bowing and heading rollers at the feed end to remove creases. Fabric speed: -50m/min Speed and temperature are two important parameters

CHAMBER NO 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

LIGHT SHADE 110 0C 120 0C 130 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C

MEDIUM SHADE 110 0C 120 0C 130 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C 140 0C

DARK SHADE 110 0C 120 0C 130 0C 140 0C 150 0C 150 0C 150 0C

Faults 26

 Pin holes Yellowing Oil spots or soiling

5.7. Sanforising
It is pre shrinking finishing Rubber belt shrinks the fabric along with it Shrinkage > 5 % Speed 50 m/min
Figure 13. Sanforiser

Steam heated roller over belt at 110 0C 50 m fabric from in to out After shrinking zone, there is a setting zone to set the shrinkage in fabric Fabric is cooled and then batched Some shade variation may occur Pressure-9kg/cm2

6. Printing
27

It is the process of transferring the given design on the specified fabric by the printing department. Printing is a very economical means of producing patterned material. The dye is applied by rollers and flat bed screens and each color is applied separately PVA is used for the adhesion of fabric on conveyor belt Speed 80-90 m/min Dummy rollers to remove surface impurities Maximum screens are possible Rangolite is used as discharging agent in paste form Belt is washed and used again.
Figure 15. Flatbed screen printing Figure 14. Rotary screen printing

6.1. Quality Objective: To get budgeted sales, expenses and profit To bring down value loss to less than 5% To continuously reduce cost

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6.3. Printing department process flow

Marketing

Cad approval DESIGN STUDIO

s/off approval and D/P design

planning ,separation, engraving, exposing and screen frame checking

PRINTING DEPARTEMENT Planning for colors, chemicals and fabric printing

AGEING or CURING

Washing

Quality or Fastness Checking

Delivered to finishing

29

6.4. Printing Department objectives under ISO 9001 -2008

Sr.no Objective . 1. Reduce chemicals 2. Increase packaging percentage printed fabric To achieve the EXPORT 92.05 % RMG 72.08 % EXPORT 95 % RMG 75 % March 2012 Co-ordination between customers PPC, marketing, QC and of 93.05 % 93.45 % March 2012 Steps defects to control cost of 7.0 % 6.84 % March 2012 Modify recipe and reuse the dyes Current level Target level Date Action

printing dyes and

OTIF %

Styles of printing

Direct Style

Discharge Style

Resist Style

Pigment Discharge Reactive colour Pigment Colour

6.5. Pigments
30

These are dry particles that give colour to ink. There are various types of pigments such as organic and inorganic. Organic pigments contain carbon and hydrogen and most are made from petroleum. Coal, wood, animal fats, and vegetable oils are also used in organic pigment manufacture. Generally there is a wider selection of colors in relationship to inorganic pigments. Colors tend to be richer, brighter, and more transparent. Inorganic pigments are chemical compounds, typically formed by precipitation. Pigment colour is determined by the proportions of the chemicals used to produce a pigment. Ink made with inorganic pigments are less expensive to produce than those made with organic pigments. They give good opacity but lack some of the qualities of organic pigments inks, such as transparency. Pigments are classed as opaque and transparent pigments. Opaque pigments are used when transferring an image to cover a substrate or when overprinting another colour. Opaque whites are also used for mixing with other inks to lighten the colour or hue. Many times a printer will print opaque white to help "hide" the influence of a dark colour paper on the overprinting ink. Transparent pigments are used to allow the background material or ink to be seen. All process colors (black, cyan, magenta and yellow) are transparent. Process inks need to be transparent to allow the proper tapping mechanism to occur.

6.6. Direct Printing:It is the most common approach to apply a colour pattern on fabric. It can be done on white or a coloured fabric. If done on coloured fabric, it is known as overprinting. The desired pattern is produced by imprinting dye on the fabric in a paste form. To prepare the print paste, a thickening agent is added to a limited amount of water and dye is dissolved in it. Earlier corn starch was preferred as a thickening agent for cotton printing. Nowadays gums or alginates derived from seaweed are preferred because they are easier to wash out, do not themselves absorb any colour and allow better penetration of colour. Most pigment printing is done without thickeners as the mixing up of resins, solvents and water itself produces thickening.

6.7. Discharge Printing

31

In this approach, the fabric is dyed in piece and then it is printed with a chemical that destroys the colour in the designed areas. Sometimes, the base colour is removed and another colour is printed in its place. The printed fabric is steamed and then thoroughly washed.

6.8. Screen Printing

It is done either with flat or cylindrical screens made of silk threads, nylon, polyester, vinyon or metal. The printing paste or dye is poured on the screen and forced through its unblocked areas onto the fabric. Based on the type of the screen used, it is known as 'Flat Screen Printing' or 'Rotary Screen Printing'. A significant characteristic of screen printing is that a greater thickness of the color can be applied to the substrate than is possible with other printing techniques. This allows for some very interesting effects that are not possible using other printing methods. Because of the simplicity of the application process, a wider range of inks and dyes are available for use in screen printing than for use in any other printing process. Utilization of screen printing presses has begun to increase because production rates have improved. This has been a result of the development of the automated and rotary screen printing press, improved dryers, and U.V. curable ink. The major chemicals used include screen emulsions, inks, and solvents, surfactants, caustics and oxidizers used in screen reclamation.

6.9. Color Preparation ingredients

Required amount of colour is taken. TRO is added and dissolved in hot water at 60 0 C. The above made paste is added to the gum paste i.e. sodium alginate paste. 1. For blotch color-mix for 10-12 min. 2. For motif colour mix for 5-7 min.

The viscosity of the paste is measured.(blotch 25-30s & motif 45-60 seconds) The colour paste is filtered using polyester bolting cloth and labeling is done 32

6.10. Process flow for Reactive Printing

Printing

Drying

Ageing

Ready for finishing

Washing

6.10.1. Ingredients for reactive color Printing (1000 liter) Ingredients Hexa phosphate sodium alginate CHT alginate Ludigol AR (softening agent ) Urea thickening agent Sarex Al -1 sodium Bicarbonate (Alkali ) Mega print PRA (viscosity) Amount (in kg) 3kg 12 kg 12 kg 4 kg _ _ 35 kg 10 kg

33

6.10.2. Reactive color Paste Preparation 1. The vessel is cleaned. 2. Stirrer is started and 3k of sodium Meta hexa phosphate is added and left for 10 min. stirring. 3. Add 12 kg of sodium alginate and 12 kg of CHT alginate while stirring as a thickening agent. 4. Stirring of gum is done for 4 hours. 5. The gum is cooled down and urea is added to reduce and maintain the temperature of 45 deg. Celsius. 6. 4 kg of Ludigol AR is added to the water for the softening action and added to gum paste. 7. Now the thickening agent Sarex Al -1 is added in water and added to gum paste. 8. Now 35 kg of sodium Bicarbonate is added for the alkaline medium maintenance and stirred for 10 min. 9. 10 kg of Mega print PRA is added to gum and stirred for 10 min. and the viscosity of the paste is checked (60-90 viscosity )and PH is checked (PH =8.5). 10. The gum paste is stored then in large tanks.

6.11. Process flow for Pigment Printing

Printing

Drying

Curing

Finishing 34

Quality checking

6.11.1. Pigment paste preparation Vessel is washed and 70 liters of water is added. Kept in stirrer and 6 kg of binder FBET and binder FBTW is added and run for 5 min. Urea is added and run for 5 min. 25 Kg of Luprintol MCL and Luprintol PE New is added to the solution and run for 15 min. and 5 min, respectively. 6-8 kg of Lutexal HEF 97 is added and run for 15 min. 0.5 Kg of Liquid ammonia is added and left for 20-30 min. and stirred.

6.12. Process flow of Pigment Discharging Printing

Drying Printing Ageing

Quality Checking Washing Curing

Finishing 35

6.12.1. Ingredients of Pigment Discharge Printing Paste

Ingredients Water Pidicryl Binder BN

Parts 168 parts 15 Parts 1 part

anol amine (TEA ) ***Liquid Ammonia Pidimine S1/100 Urea Pidicron DTS Total =

1 part 2.5 Parts 3 Parts 10 Parts 100 Parts

*** Around 1-2 % of Pidiprint 160 (thickener) is added in the above mixture so that it becomes slightly thicker and does not come out during stirring. 6.12.2. Pigment discharge paste Vessel is washed and 70 liters of water is added. Kept in stirrer and 6 kg of binder FBET and binder FBTW is added and run for 5 min. Urea is added and run for 5 min. 2.5 Kg of Luprintol MCL and Luprintol PE New is added to the solution and run for 15 min. and 5 min, respectively. 15 kg of Rangolite ST to paste and run for 15 min. 36

 6-8 kg of Lutexal HEF 97 is added and run for 15 min. 0.5 Kg of Liquid ammonia is added and left for 20-30 min. and stirred.

6.13. List of machine, equipments and their specifications

Sr.No. Specification Rotary M/C Busher Bed M/c 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Make Model Yr. of mfg. No. of colors Function Printing width Speed max. Screen used Stormac Stormac IV 1984 13 Pneumatic 1850 mm 70 mtr/min Nickel Metal T. Maneklal Hydromag III 1980 10 Hydraulic 1575 mm 7-8 mtr /min Polyester Bolting cloth 9. 10. Printing blade 5 s Blanket length 11. 12. 13. Blanket width Printing Design repeat 14. No. of dryer 4 chamber 2060 mm Warpwise Fixed 64.2 cm 2000 mm Weftwise 2400 mm Weftwise 2060 mm Warpwise 16.5 mtr Rubber 50.8 mtr Flat Ichinose Bed M/c Ichinose Ichinose 7000 2006 12 Pneumatic 2100 mm 2005 2 Hydraulic 1850 mm Flat Baby M/c M-Tex Rotary

10-18 mtr /min 5 mtr/min Polyester Bolting cloth Rubber 61.5 mtr Magnet rod 16.5 mtr Nickel Metal

Variable upto Variable upto Fix 64.2 mtr 3000 mm 1 3040 mm 1 1

37

6.14. Texfab Loop Ager

50 loops For 200 meter of fabric ageing can be done in one move. Curing by oil heating at 150 0C for 3-5 min Ageing by steaming at 1020 103 0 C for 6-8 min.
Figure 16. Texfab loopager

950 kg / hr steam pressure and the time of contact is 9-10 min. during Ageing.

6.15. After treatment

Specifications of Equipments and Machinery used Sr. No. Specification Arioli Ager 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Make Yr of manufacture Machine function Roller width Working width Fabric capacity Used for Arioli (Italy) 2004 Manually 78 72 200 mtr Developing reactive discharge colour 8. Production/day 20,000 mtr /day Loop Texfab Ager Texfab (India ) 2006 Automatic 101 98 230 mtr Developing and reactive discharge colour 40,000 mtr /day 35,000 mtr /day Texfab (India ) 2007 Automatic 78 72 180 mtr For and clothes washing Loop Texfab soaper

6.16. Specifications used in pigment printing and color fixation (ageing stage)
Reactive Printing Pigment printing 38 Discharge printing Color fixation

Temperature Air pressure Squeeze blade

110-1400 C 4-7 kg/cm2 45 x 0.15 45 x 0.20

120-1550C 4-7 kg/cm2 45 x 0.15 45 x 0.20 _ _ _

90-1200 C 4-7 kg/cm2 45 x 0.15 45 x 0.20 _ _ _

_ _ _

Chamber temp. Contact time Loop length

_ _ _

102-1040 C 9-10 min 4 mtrs.

6.17. Texfab Soaper

Made from Texfab Company (Surat). 7 tanks for hot washing and cold washing. 16 dryer chambers and 4 cooling chamber.

Figure 17. Texfab Soaper

6.18. Texfab Soaper specifications and activities

Tank Tank 1 Tank 2 Tank 3 Tank 4 Tank 5 Tank 6 Tank 7 Capacity 980 ltr 1750 ltr 1400 ltr 1200 ltr 1200 ltr 1400 ltr 980 ltr Temperature _ _ 65 0 C 950 C 950 C 900 C _ 39 Process carried out Cold wash (500 gm Hcl for 600 mtr ) Cold wash spray and overflow Hot wash Hot wash with soap (Dekol ) Hot wash with soap 1.5 gpl Only hot wash temp. 950 C Only cold wash with spray

6.17. Control parameters and precautions before Printing:

PH of the printing paste should not be less than 9. After making the color the PH checking becomes difficult so keep some color extra for PH checking. If the PH is less then add some liquid ammonia to maintain the PH. Same amount of ammonia should be added to paste as well as color before printing to avoid the defects, fuzziness and the bubbling in the print paste.

6.18. Control parameter for Rotary Printing :

Proper cleaning of rotary screen is done to avoid regular check up of the screen while printing is in process. Setting of pressure of magnetic rod and squeeze blade is done properly to avoid the misprints and other printing defects. The tension of the conveyer is adjusted properly so that the spots and stains can be avoided.

6.19. Environmental aspects and impacts of printing:

Aspects Use of chemicals Use of steam Spill or leakage of chemicals Fumes and heat Use of oil and grease Impacts Excess chemical consumption Resource depletion Soil and water pollution Human discomfort in summer Spent oil and hazardous wastes

Steps of improvement To improve the safe working practices Use 40 of PPE (personal productivity

equipments) and make available MSDS (material safety data sheet ) Conserve water resources Use of recycled water from ETP (effluent treatment plant )

7. Quality assurance
Quality assurance department works on in process quality control. It maintains the quality standards. It has been divided into separate zones, which work independently. Lab dip section In process control Finished product inspection Note: - ISO/AATCC standards are followed.

7.1. Physical testing

7.1.1. Instruments and tests: Seam Slippage/Tensile Tester (H5RT)

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 Tearing Strength Tester (Paramount) Crock Meter (Paramount) Washing Fastness Testing Computerized Twist Tester (BTRA) Random Tumble Pilling Tester (SDL atlas) Martindale Pilling Tester (SDL atlas) Wrap Reel (Kamal metal ind.)

7.1.2. Norms: Tensile strength: - minimum 25 lbf Tear strength: - minimum 1.5 lbf Seam slippage: - 15 lbf Pilling (Martindale) ---- 4 Color fastness I. Light shade ---- 4 II. Medium shade --- 3 4 III. Dark shade 3

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 Rubbing fastness I. II. III. Light shade ----- 4 Medium shade ----- 3 Dark shade ------ 2 3

7.1.3. Check points WEIGHT/ sq meter and WEIGHT/linear meter Width of fabric Fabric construction of woven fabric BOW: - bow occurs when yarns are displaced from a line perpendicular to the selvedge and form one or more arcs across the width of the fabric I. II. Take a full width specimen and level the weft yarn Then a straight edge is placed across the fabric between two points at which the last reversed yarn meets the two selvedge or edge III. IV. V. Maximum distance or deviation from straight edge is measured Measure the full width of the test specimen % Bow = (max deviation in cm)*100/full width in cms

Dimensional change Tearing strength (pendulum method) Fabric construction (ASTM D 1375) :- no of ends or picks falling per unit distance when fabric is held without tension DCAHL (AATCC 135): - determination of dimensional change in test specimen when subjected to repeated laundering 43

 Seam slippage (ASTM D 434) Crease recovery angle (AATCC 66) Abrasion resistance (Martindale ASTM D 4966-98) Pilling resistance (ASTM D 497-99) Absorbency (AATCC 79-59) Whiteness using spectrophotometer Color fastness to washing Water fastness (AATCC 107 199 D) Perspiration fastness

7.1.4. Seam slippage testing

Test the suitability of woven fabric seaming. Seam slippage is the load required to produce a specific amount of opening in a given direction (warp over weft or weft or warp) In warp over weft warp yarns moves/slides over the weft yarn and vice versa Cut a piece of fabric 4*14 inch with long direction parallel to the weft yarn for warp yarn slide over Fold the specimen 4 inch from one end with the fold parallel to short direction of the fabric (face to face)

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 Sew a seam of about inch from crease of folding 40/3 spun PET thread with 0.03 inch needle in diameter Cut the fold open Fold the entire specimen at equal distance and cut an un-seamed sample Cut three samples Condition the specimen Set the machine at 75 mm jaw separation 300m/min speed Test the seamed and un-seamed sample (seam should be between upper and lower jaws)

7.2. Chemical testing

This is done to check the purity of chemicals NORMS: CHEMICAL Caustic soda H2O2 Sodium hydrosulphite Hypochlorite PURITY > 47 % > 49 % > 84 % > 40 g/l of available Cl 45

Glauber salt Alginate MgCl2 Resist salt Soda ash Hardness pH

6.5 < Ph <7.5 Moisture 10 15 % > 95 % > 95 % > 93 % < 300 ppm 6.5 8.5

7.2.1. DESCRIPTION OF SOME TEST Test Concentration of recovery caustic I. II. Procedure Take 5 ml sample of caustic and add 500 ml of water. Take 10 ml from this solution and titrate it against 0.1 N HCl using 0.1 N phenolphthalein as indicator. Gram per liter = B.R.* 40

46

Testing of H2O2

I. II.

Take 5ml peroxide soln. Add 5ml (20%) sulphuric acid. Titrate against KMNO4 (0.588 N) End point: colourless to pink Reading*2= grams/lit

Testing of Caustic soda

I.

Take

ml

caustic

soln.

Add

2-3

drops

of

indicator

phenolphthalein. II. Titrate it against 0.245N HCl

Reading * 2= grams/lit Purity of Caustic soda I. II. III. Take 5-6 gm of sample in 500 ml of water Take 25 ml of this diluted solution in conical flask Titrate it against 0.1 N HCl using phenolphthalein and methyl orange as indicator. IV. Color change pink to colorless and yellow to orange.

7.2.2. Calculations Test mg/l of chlorine in water Procedure I. Take 100 ml of water sample and titrate it against 0.02 N AgNO3 II. Use 4 % K2Cr2O7 as an indicator with end point of yellow to red. Chlorine in water (mg/l) = B.R* 10 Testing of NaOCl III. Take 5ml of soda bleach solution. Add acetic acid & potassium iodide(10%) 47

IV.

Titrate with sodium thiosulphate(0.28 N) End point:-Brown solution turns colourless Reading *2=gram/lit

7.2.3. Specifications: For mercerized sample: Whiteness minimum 75 Residual size min 7 (on a scale of 1-9) pH I. II. Full white 5.5 7.5 Dyed 5.5 7

Absorbency Finished < 10 sec

Conclusion
The textile internship has been completed in Morarjee Textiles Ltd, Nagpur, Maharashtra. The duration of the internship was of two weeks where we had covered designs studio, pretreatment of cotton fabric, dyeing, printing and quality control & assurance methods of textile processing. We study the various aspects of a textile processing unit starting from design section to the functionality of the various departments. We were introduced to the various brands of machineries available for carrying out the different textile processes to meet global standards.

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A very interesting observation was made by us while studying the dyeing section, the kuster padding machine was completely covered with mosquito net fabric. This was done to avoid the entry of insects and mosquitoes while dyeing so that it should be free from the defects like white dots on the fabric. The internship helped us to understand the structural and functional constituents of the industry and also adapt to real industrial situations which equipped us for decision making in a realistic environment.

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