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N O R T H
A M E R I C A
Volume 2 Issue 4 2008
Amoretti World Pastry Team Championship Winning Big in Macau
RC Cola and Moon Pie Photo by Brian Dressler
PA S T R Y N A . C O M
Letter From The Editor
The Value of Passion
In ancient China there was a saying: “May you live in interesting times.” It was as much a curse as anything. But sometimes the most difficult times are the most interesting and the most rewarding too. They challenge us, they test us, and occasionally they can even bring out the best in us. So the saying was as much a blessing as a curse. And the times we are living in are nothing if not interesting. Summer is over, the Olympics have come and gone and still looming is the ever bleak global economies. So, do we curl up in a ball and lament that which is beyond our control? I think not. You’ve chosen a path few can handle. Sacrifices you make on a daily basis have prepared you for just these occasions. Long hours, stressful work environments, pressure, low wages, little job security etc. All in a days work for the foodservice professional. When everyone else is losing their heads and panicking, it’s time for you to think back to why you got into this line of work? What tempted you to enter such a demanding and tiring occupation? Where you someone who sought out continual anxiety and loved the thought of working over every weekend and holidays? No. It is about passion. Passion for creation, artistry, team accomplishment and providing happiness and delight to others. So, at the end of the day, even though the economic skies are cloudy, take solace in the fact you are pursuing your passion. And, now, more than ever, the world needs pastry chefs, bakers, chocolatiers, ice cream makers, confectioners, sweets enthusiasts and all those who work so hard to put smiles on the faces of others. Keep doing what you do. Your skills and passion are very important and greatly appreciated.
Regards, Joseph Marcionette Editor-in-Chief Email: email@example.com
2 Pastry & Baking North America
ngaging customers with fresh, gourmet chocolates and pastries
has never been so easy. Many of the world’s leading establishments have already found the beautifully handcrafted creations of Norman Love Confections to be a valuable addition to their already impressive offering. Innovatively packaged for consistent and convenient delivery, Norman Love Confections puts the power of LOVE into your hands.
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N O R T H A M E R I C A
World Pastry Team Championship
A week after the closing ceremonies in Beijing – Gold, Silver, and Bronze medals were once again awarded to the best and most talented teams in the world, but this time it was at the Amoretti® 2008 World Pastry Team Championship.
Off The Wire
The latest news, happenings, events and product updates for the well informed professional.
34 Join P&B NA on a tour of North America and beyond as we visit with and showcase talented professionals who share their
Ben Roche is the pastry chef at Moto Restaurant in Chicago. Fascinated with science after discovering Alka Seltzer “bombs” as a kid, Ben’s approach to pastry is unconventional. 46
As one of Australia’s most celebrated pastry chefs, Kirsten Tibballs presents Grand Gateaux and her original take on great cakes.
Chef in Focus
Chef Jason Licker returns to Asia to take on his “Mt. Everest” challenge and run the pastry kitchen in the world’s largest casino located in Macau.
The Dubys dazzle with their leading edge approach to innovative creations.
4 Pastry & Baking North America
Off The Wire
News, events and happenings from around the region
First United States Chocolate Academy
Barry Callebaut, the world’s leading manufacturer of highquality cocoa and chocolate, is proud to announce the formal opening of the Company’s first United States Chocolate Academy. This Academy demonstrates the Company’s commitment to building its business in North America and strengthening its relationships with the chocolatiers and chefs of the United States. “By means of demonstrations, theory classes and workshops, we’re passing on Barry Callebaut’s expertise and passion for chocolate,” said Patrick Peeters, technical advisor for the Chocolate Academies. Courses are designed to inspire artisans and culinary professionals, including pastry chefs, confectioners, bakers and caterers from around the globe. The Academy will provide an arena for participants to share their passion for fine chocolate with other skilled professionals, to improve their skills in working with fine chocolate products, such as Callebaut (fine Belgian chocolate), Cacao Barry (exquisite French chocolate) and Carma (high-quality Swiss chocolate), and to learn more about the latest chocolate-making trends, techniques and recipes. Classes will begin in October in the state-of-the-art 8,500 square-foot training center in Chicago’s River North neighborhood. As the 12th Chocolate Academy location in the world, the space showcases the knowledge that Barry Callebaut
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has accumulated and encourages the exchange of technical expertise. From introductor y courses on the origins of chocolate to specialized classes in the techniques of molding, enrobing and sculpting chocolate, the Chocolate Academy’s training is specifically designed to encourage participants to apply and broaden their technical skills under the guidance of trained Barry Callebaut Master Chocolatiers. Award-winning French pastry chef, Jerome Landrieu, will serve as technical advisor for the Academy. He has worked in several leading pastry shops and restaurants in France and has studied under three chefs who have earned the prestigious title, Meilleur Ouvrier de France (M.O.F.). Chef Landrieu has just completed his fourth year at the Bellouet Conseils School, a Parisian school for the art of desserts, and is looking forward to sharing his experience with Academy participants as well as working with Barry Callebaut’s gourmet chocolates. “It’s a perfect fit,” he says. For more information on the new Chicago location of the Barry Callebaut Chocolate Academy, to request a course catalog and to register for classes, please call or email 1-866-443-0460 and email@example.com.
Call for Competitors
Entry forms are now available for the 20th annual U.S. Pastry Competition to be held at the International Foodservice Show of New York on March 1, 2009. Presented by Paris Gourmet and sponsored by Cacao Noel, Ravifruit and Pastry 1, this installment of the competition will feature Give My Regards To Broadway! as the chocolate & sugar showpiece theme with each contestant vying for points in the areas of visual appeal, artistic presentation, technique, originality and creativity. With cash prizes and the coveted Pastry Chef of the Year title on the line, entries must be postmarked no later than December 3, 2008. For more information on the event and downloadable entry form, please visit www.parisgourmet.com.
Chef Andy Chlebana National Pastry Chef of the Year
R. Andrew Chlebana II, certified executive pastry chef (CEPC) of Plainfield, Ill., received the American Culinary Federation, Inc., (ACF) National Pastry Chef of the Year Award at ACF’s 58th annual National Convention in Las Vegas, July 14-17. The 2008 ACF Pastry Chef of the Year Award recognizes a pastry chef who has displayed a passion for the craft, has an accomplished reputation in the pastry field and has given back through the education of others by sharing his or her skills and knowledge. Chef Chlebana, currently the pastry chef at White Eagle Golf Club in Naperville and culinary instructor at Joliet Junior College, swept the regional competition in February to become a contender for the national title in July. He competed against three chefs at the national convention in Las Vegas, taking part in a timed baking competition where he prepared a plated dessert, a cake and a showpiece, with the caveat that each recipe had to incorporate Splenda®. Judges evaluated Chlebana’s cooking skills, menu taste and professionalism, and Chlebana’s creations rose above the other regional semifinalist’s pieces to earn him the title of National Pastry Chef of the Year. Las Vegas was the location of the 2008 ACF National Convention. Bringing more than 2,000 chefs, cooks, foodservice professionals to the city, the event featured more than 150 exhibitors, national competitions and awards. The American Culinary Federation, Inc., established in 1929, is the premier professional organization for culinarians in North America. With more than 21,500 members spanning 230 chapters nationwide, ACF is the culinary leader in offering educational resources, training, apprenticeship and accreditation. In addition, ACF operates the most comprehensive certification program for chefs in the United States. ACF is home to ACF Culinary Team USA, the official representative for the United States in major international culinary competitions. For more information, visit www.acfchefs.org.
New Mini Drop Shape Flexipan
Demarle USA recently introduced their new Mini Drop shape Flexipan mould. This new size is perfectly designed to work well for making beautiful bite size baked, frozen, or chocolate delights. The new shape comes in a 56 mould arrangement for use in an 18 x 26 tray size. Flexipan moulds are made using the highest quality silicone materials integrated onto fiberglass mesh material. These nonstick moulds are incredibly durable, never need greasing, and are NSF and Kosher certified. Flexipan is the ideal choice for innovative bakery, pastry, chocolate, and frozen desert creations. Demarle USA is part of the SASA Industrie Group, one of the premier manufacturers of baking trays and silicone moulds & mats. The group sells into the artisan, pastry, retail, gourmet, foodservice, and industrial baking industries. Among the companies most popular products are Sasa, Demarle, Silpat®, Fiberlux®, Flexipan®, Flexipat®, Silform®, and Roul’Pat®. Demarle S.A., was founded 1965 and merged with SASA in 2000. SASA Industrie Group and its subsidiaries currently employ nearly 500 people in four production facilities all located in France, has offices in Germany, Japan, United Kingdom, the United States and exports to over 120 countries worldwide. For more information call 1 888 – FLEX-PAN or visit www.DemarleUSA.com
Off The Wire
Albert Uster Loses Life in Plane Crash in The Swiss Alps
Executive Chef, Philanthropist and Entrepreneur-Founder of Albert Uster Imports Dies at 75.
Albert Uster, Executive Chef, Founder and Chairman of the Board of Albert Uster Imports, died in a sailplane crash in the Swiss Alps on Friday, July 25, 2008 at age 75. The cause of the crash is under investigation. Swiss-born Albert Uster was a professional chef turned savvy businessman and spent the last fifty years in an industry that he treasured. After training at some of the finest restaurants in Europe, Uster arrived at Ellis Island in the United States in 1954, worked in New York and Houston, served in the U.S. Army in Texas and attended the University of Houston, majoring in industrial psychology and management. He opened three hotels for the Hotel Corporation of America in Houston, New Orleans and Hartford. And, while working as the executive sous-chef at the Shamrock Hilton in Texas, he opened several more hotels in Kansas City, Aurora and Atlanta. It was while working at the Washington Hilton as an Executive Chef that Mr. Uster formed the Restaurant Corporation of America, partnering with Harold Giesinger, Guido Gerosa and Sam Schattner. The group built a 30,000 square-foot restaurant at the Watergate Hotel, called The Watergate Restaurant. To stock the pastry kitchen, Uster returned to his Swiss roots and began importing quality chocolate and other items such as fondant and marzipan – gourmet products he could not find in the United States. In 1980, Mr. Uster took his import enterprise out of the Watergate and named it Albert Uster Imports. He built a warehouse in Gaithersburg, Md., building the company by forming strategic partnerships with Swiss manufacturers and importing only the finest ingredients and products. He introduced to the American palate Swiss couverture, a professional-grade chocolate prized by gourmet chefs for its glossy texture. The company eventually expanded into a multimillion-dollar global enterprise Albert Uster Imports with locations in Kansas City, San Francisco, Honolulu, Miami and around the world. In 1998, Uster passed the reins of the company to a new Chief Executive Officer, Philipp Braun, remaining as chairman of the board and proudly overseeing the expansion of the company into the frozen food and savory food businesses. His vision remains strongly embedded within the company’s name and spirit.
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Mr. Uster was an avid glider pilot, wine collector and gardener. He was a philanthropist who created the popular Sweet Charity event to support The Heart of America Foundation, a charity combining service, learning and literacy to support the needs of at-risk children. The event brought together pastry chefs and chefs from the Washington, D.C. Metro Area’s leading hotels and restaurants for a unique event that emphasized chocolate as a metaphor for the sweetness and potential in every child. Mr. Uster is survived by his daughters Jenny SchaepperUster, Scarlett Uster, and Kristen Narlinger-Goldner, his sons Albert D. Uster, Adam Uster and Erik Goldner, his brothers Hans Peter Uster and Henry Uster, and his close companion Josephine S. Cooper. Albert Uster Imports will continue to be led by President and CEO Philipp Braun and the AUI team. A funeral was held in Kuesnacht, Switzerland on August 8, 2008, followed by a celebration of Albert Uster’s life and accomplishments on Sunday, August 24, 2008 at the Corcoran Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C.
Outstanding Pastry Chef
The James Beard Foundation Awards shine a spotlight on the best and brightest talent in the food and beverage industry. This year’s Outstanding Pastry Chef award went to Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robinson of Tartine Bakery in San Francisco (tartinebakery.com). Covering all aspects of the industry – from chefs and restaurateurs to cookbook authors and food journalists to restaurant designers and architects and more – the James Beard Foundation Awards are the highest honors for food and beverage professionals working in America. The awards are presented at Avery Fisher Hall at Lincoln Center. Nominees and winners are féted at a weekend of gala events in New York City that has become the social and gastronomic highlight of the year.
Outstanding Pastry Chef Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robinson.
Established in 1990, the James Beard Foundation Awards are a program of the James Beard Foundation, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization whose mission is to celebrate, nurture, and preserve America’s culinary heritage and diversity in order to elevate our appreciation of the culinary arts. For more information, to join as a member, to learn more about James Beard, or to sign up to receive Beard Bites, the free electronic newsletter, visit www.jamesbeard.org. A cookbook author and teacher with an encyclopedic knowledge about food, James Beard, who died in 1985, was a champion of American cuisine. He helped educate and mentor generations of professional chefs and food enthusiasts. Today, the Beard Foundation continues in the same spirit by administering a number of diverse programs that include educational initiatives, food industry awards, scholarships to culinary schools, and publications, and by maintaining the historic James Beard House in New York City’s Greenwich Village as a “performance space” for visiting chefs.
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Off The Wire
New Online Job Service
The Retail Bakers of America (RBA) will launch its interactive job board – the RBA Job Center – offering its members and the baking industry at large an easyto-use and highly targeted resource for online employment connections. The launch will take place at RBA’s annual convention, the American Bakery Expo in Atlantic City. “We are very excited about RBA’s Job Center because we know how critical it is for employees in the baking industry to attract first-rate talent with a minimum expenditure of time and resources,” said Aleksandra Syska, RBA’s Director of Membership. “And it’s important for us to enable smooth career transitions for those seeking industry jobs.” Both members and non-members can use RBA’s Job Center to reach qualified candidates. Employers can post jobs online, search for qualified candidates based on specific job criteria, and create an online resume agent to e-mail qualified candidates daily. They also benefit from online reporting that provides job activity statistics. For job seekers, RBA’s Job Center is a free service that provides access to employers and job in the baking industry. In addition to posting their resumes, job seekers can browse and view available jobs based on their criteria, and save those jobs for later review if they choose. Job seekers can also create a search agent to provide e-mail notifications of jobs that match their criteria. The Retail Bakers of America (RBA) is a 501(c)6 not-for-profit trade association located in McLean, VA whose membership consists of retail bakeries, industry suppliers, educators, students, culinary colleges and other industry partners, is committed to the success of the retail baking industry. Celebrating its 90th anniversary year, RBA works as the business partner and resource provider for bakers across the country, and is the nation’s premier source for industry information. More information is available at www.rbanet.com or call (800) 638-0924.
Off The Wire
Chicago Welcomes The Queen of Jam
Christine Ferber has earned more than international acclaim as a Master Pastry Chef and Master Jam Maker, more than national awards for excellence in her craft, and more than orders for jam from the President of France. She’s done more than publish a variety of books on jams and pastries, translated into many languages, and still more than received invitations to teach all over the world: she has earned the nickname, “The Queen of Jams and Jellies.” Professionals in the pastry world came this past August from all over the country to gain from The Queen’s wisdom. Before sharing the secrets of her confiture recipes such as her Alsatian Apple Jam, Strawberry & Elderberry Blossom Jam, Wild Raspberry & Chocolate Jam, Pear & Fig Jam, or Spiced Bell Pepper Chutney, to name a few, Ferber addressed her new students in English, in a warm, serene voice, telling them about her history and the story of her inspiring career. Clearly, her listeners were in the presence of a master truly devoted to her craft, someone, as she explained, who has been working toward her goals for more than 30 years. Ferber told her students she comes from a village of 350 people called Niedermorschwihr in Alsace, France, located approximately five miles west of Colmar, about 50 miles southeast of Strasbourg, and found along the beautiful route des vins d’Alsace. Located in the Haut-Rhin department, the village is nestled in an area that produces several grape varieties. The rich soil and relatively dry climate create an ideal environment for growing grapes and other fruit. The one-road village is comprised of old stone houses and a gothic church in the center of the town with a steeple dating back to the 13th century. Christine Ferber’s father came to the village in 1959, the year before Ferber was born, to open an épicerie, or small grocery store. Soon, he began baking breads for their clients, all of whom came from the village. The town was not connected by any greater road to other towns, so their only clientele came from Niedermorschwihr. Ferber dreamed of learning the art of pastry and adding this dimension to the family business, but pastry apprenticeships at that time were available only to men. So, at age 16 she went to Belgium where she studied for three years. “Learn pastry, and you can travel,” her father had told her.
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After her apprenticeship in Belgium, Ferber went to Paris to work for Chef Lucien Pelletier, a renowned pastry chef who appreciated Ferber’s ambition, strength, and the fact that she was from Alsace, a region known for its tenacious workers. At age 18, she competed and won the Championnat de France, a national pastry competition. After returning to her home in Alsace, Ferber worked toward her dream, contributing pastries to her parents’ business. She often went to Colmar and Strasbourg to gaze at the beautiful pâtisseries and dreamed of one day owning her own pastry shop, as fine and as stunning as those she visited in the neighboring cities. She had no intention in those days of creating a jam business. After all, nearly everyone in the village had their own garden and did their own canning. She made jams and jellies, but had no intention of selling them, until one day when a visitor to the family épicerie noticed one of her lovely jars of cherry preserves on the shelf. “That’s not for sale,” Ferber’s mother, who had declared that she was the jam maker in the household, told the visitor. “That’s just for decoration,” explained her aunt. Nevertheless, they sold the jar of cherries to their customer. Despite her family’s doubt and “affectionate criticism” as Ferber said, she continued making jam and found that their clientele enjoyed her innovative creations. It became a game for Ferber, coming up with new recipes. With practice, she became an expert in understanding fruit and the conditions which facilitate ideal flavors. She used only fresh, seasonal ingredients and developed close relationships with the local farmers. She continued to make pastries as well and found that one supported the other: someone came to their store for jam and bought pastries, and vice versa. Ferber’s jams were first recognized in the national French newspaper, Le Figaro in 1992. Today she is visited every weekend by journalists, writers, and enthusiasts eager to see and taste her jams and pastries. Her products and books are sold worldwide, as far away as Japan whose sales make up one quarter of her earnings. She still operates out of her parents’ épicerie which continues to earn three percent of the total revenue. Christine Ferber’s visitors, readers, and students can discern that her dedication, imagination, talent, passion, hard work, and the homegrown fruits of Alsace are some of the qualities that make her the Queen of Jam. But to understand completely, you have to taste her jam for yourself! The French Pastry School’s L’Art de la P‚tisserie program offers a 24-week course to learn in an intimate, hands-on setting, using state-of-the art equipment and top-of-the-line ingredients. The French Pastry School also hosts more than 500 food enthusiasts and professionals who come to The French Pastry School for three-day classes as a part of the Continuing Education program. Information about the school’s programs can be found at www.frenchpastryschool.com.
Star chef Charlie Trotter and his team at Restaurant Charlie (located in the Palazzo Hotel in Las Vegas) welcomed chefs Dominique and Cindy Duby to celebrate their most recent cookbook – Wild Sweets Chocolate. The pastry team at Restaurant Charlie is headed by Aaron Lindgren, but Chef Trotter also flew in Della Gosset, pastry chef at Charlie Trotter’s Restaurant in Chicago as well as Michelle Gayer, former pastry chef and co-author of Charlie Trotter’s Desserts book for the event. More than 120 guests attended the high profile event as the internationally famous chocolate couple proved their culinary artistry and passion. The Duby’s presented many of their exquisite savory-sweet recipes from their book including the ‘Cherry Bite’ made of an ancho 70% chocolate ganache, dried cherry in aged balsamic vinegar and crispy maple bacon on a wonton ‘chip’. Bar Charlie’s chefs also prepared luxurious savory samplings including Japanese eel with grapefruit and battera kombu and diver sea scallops with preserved kumquats and Thai chili.
Wild Sweets Chocolate has received international critical acclaim including second place for ‘Best Chocolate Book in the World’ at the 2008 Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in London, England. For more information or to purchase signed copies of the book, please visit www.dcduby.com
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Quinoa Pound Cake
Quinoa Pound Cake 45g milk 3 eggs 11/2 tsp vanilla 75g cake flour 75g quinoa flour 150g sugar 3/4 tsp baking powder 1/4 tsp salt 184g butter (soft) 1. Place all dry ingredients in mixer bowl and mix with paddle for 1 minute to incorporate. 2. Whisk together milk, eggs and vanilla. Add butter and half the liquid to dries and mix until moistened. 3. Add remaining liquids and mix for 2 minutes until smooth. Spread on a quarter sheet tray lined with parchment. 4. Bake at 350°F until golden. When cool, cut into 11/2 inch squares. Ginger Ice Cream 2 cup heavy cream 2 cup milk 2 oz ginger/peeled and sliced 1 cup + 2 tbsp sugar 9 egg yolks 1. Combine cream, milk, 1 cup sugar and ginger in a sauce pot. Bring up to scald and steep for 1 hour. 2. After cream has been infused reheat. Whisk remaining 1/2 cup sugar with the yolks. 3. Temper the ginger cream mixture with the yolks. Return to the pot and cook until nappe. Strain through chinois and chill in an ice bath. Spin in ice cream machine. Cherry Compote 2 cup sour cherries – pitted 1/2 cup sugar 1 tsp lemon juice 1 tbsp tapioca starch Pinch salt 1. Mix sugar, salt and tapioca together. Stir in cherries and lemon juice. 2. Cook over medium heat until thickened. Stirring frequently so as not to burn. Cherry Chip 1 cup cherries 1/4 cup sugar 1. Bring to boil. Reserve 1/2c liquid for the sauce. 2. Puree and spread thinly onto sipat. Dry in dehydrator or low oven until crisp. Break into shards. Cherry Sweet Soy Syrup Place the reserved cherry liquid in a small pot. Add 1 tsp sweet soy sauce and bring to low boil. Cool and place in syringe for plating Candied Ginger 1 knob ginger 1. Peel ginger. Slice thinly and blanch 3 times. 2. Cook in simple syrup until tender. Strain/dry and toss in sugar. Julienne when needed. Assembly 1. Draw a diagonal line on plate with cherry sweet soy syrup. 2. Place 3 squares of cake on plate in a line. 3. Top 2 squares with cherry compote. Place a quenelle of ginger ice cream on third square. Garnish with cherry chip and candied ginger.
Executive Pastry Chef Custom House 500 S Dearborn St. Chicago, IL 60605 Tel: (312) 523-0200 www.customhouse.cc
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Quinoa Pound Cake
Poached Quince, Spiced Shortbread, Lemon Verbena Ice Cream
Yield: 10 Poached Quince 5 quince 1 cup sherry 2 cups sugar 4 cups water 1 vanilla bean 2 star anise 1 cinnamon stick 1. Scrape the vanilla pod and add the beans and pod to a pot. 2. Add to the pot the sherry, water, sugar, vanilla bean, star anise and cinnamon stick and bring to a simmer. 3. Peel the quince and cut in quarters. Remove the core and dice into 1/2 inch pieces. Add the quince to the pot and simmer gently for about 11/2 hours. The quince should be a rusty golden color and very tender. Let the quince cool in the liquid to room temperature. 4. Strain the liquid from the quince. Bring the liquid to a simmer and reduce until you have 2 cups of liquid. Cool and pour over poached quince. Spiced Shortbread 1 cup butter, room temperature 2 cups flour 1/2 cup icing sugar 1/4 tsp salt 1/8 tsp ginger 1/8 tsp cinnamon 1/8 tsp nutmeg 1. Preheat an oven to 325°F 2. Cream the butter and the sugar until light and fluffy. 3. And the flour, salt, and spices. 4. Mix until just about to come together. 5. Bring the dough together with your hands to prevent overworking the dough. 6. On a lightly floured surface roll out the dough to a 1/2 inch thickness. 7. Using a 2 inch diameter cookie cutter, cut the dough and place on a baking sheet. Bake for about 12 minutes or until lightly golden in color. Lemon Verbena Ice Cream 2 cups heavy cream 2cups milk 1/2 cup sugar 1/4 cup corn syrup 1 cup lemon verbena leaves, packed 12 large egg yolks 1. In a pot steep the cream, milk and lemon verbena. Do not let the cream come to a boil. 2. In a bowl combine yolks, sugar and corn syrup. Whisk until fully combined. 3. Temper the cream into the egg yolk mixture. 4. Place the mixture into a clean pot and on low heat cook the mixture, while continuously stirring to avoid over cooking the eggs, until it forms a thick sauce and coats the spoon. 5. Pour the custard through a chinois into a clean bowl. Place that bowl over an ice water bath and stir the custard occasionally until cool. 6. Refrigerate the ice cream base overnight. 7. Turn the ice cream according the manufacturers instructions. Assembly 1. Place a round of shortbread in the center of a plate. 2. Place poached quince around the shortbread making sure that some of the liquid gets on the plate. 3. Place a scoop of ice cream on top of the shortbread and garnish the fruit with lemon geranium flowers.
Pastry Chef River Café 200 Barclay Parade South West Calgary, AB T2P 4R5, Canada (403) 261-7670 www.river-cafe.com
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Poached Quince, Spiced Shortbread, Lemon Verbena Ice Cream
Four Moons “Moon Pies”
Chocolate Cake 1 cup butter, softened 21/4 cups sugar 1 cup cocoa powder, euro dark 2 tsp baking powder 1/2 tbsp baking soda 23/4 cups all purpose flour 1 tbsp salt 3 eggs, large 2 cups hot water 1. Combine softened butter and sugar together in mixing bowl with paddle attachment. 2. Cream until light yellow and slowly add eggs, scraping well. Alternate the dry ingredients with the water until well combined. 3. Line sheet or two half sheet pans with parchment, pour mixture evenly and bake at 350°F until tester comes out clean in center. Graham Crackers 8 oz. whole wheat flour 4 oz. all purpose flour 1/2 tsp salt 1/2 tsp baking soda 1 tbsp cold water 2 oz. unsalted butter, softened 31/2 oz. sugar 43/4 oz. honey 11/2 oz. dark molasses 1 egg, large 1. Combine wheat flour, all purpose flour and salt, set aside. 2. Cream together butter and sugar until light and pale in color. Add the honey and molasses and the egg, scrape well. 3. In small bowl combine water and baking soda. Then add to creamed mixture. 4. Add half of the dry ingredients until combined then add the remaining. 5. Form dough into a disk and refrigerate overnight. Roll out dough into 1/8” thick and place on parchment lined sheet pans. 6. Bake at 325°F until lightly golden brown. Vanilla Banana Filling 2 cups mascarpone cheese 1 cup heavy cream 1/2 cup sugar Vanilla Bean, scraped 3 ripe bananas Banana liqueur to taste In mixing bowl with whip attachment mix all ingredients together until well combined and thickened. Assembly 1. Place one layer of chocolate cake on work surface. Take one pan of graham cracker and brush with banana liqueur place this side towards chocolate cake. 2. Brush the top of the graham cracker with more banana liqueur. Press the two layers firmly together. 3. Spread the vanilla banana filling evenly over the graham layer. Continue with another layer of graham brushed with banana liqueur and top with chocolate cake. 4. Wrap tightly and place it freezer until almost frozen, then cut into a moon shape. 5. Melt equal parts bittersweet chocolate and cocoa butter and place in a Wagner paint sprayer. Coat moon pie evenly and allow to dry before coating with gold dust.
Pastry Chef Four Moons Orangeburg, SC Tel: (803) 531-1984 www.fourmoons.com
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Four Moons “Moon Pies”
C2008 Brian Dressler / dresslerphoto.com 21
Warm Apple Crisp with Honey Gelato
Crisp Topping 2 cps all purpose flour 2 cps whole wheat flour 2 cps brown sugar 2 cps plain sugar 1 tsp salt 4 tsp cinnamon 1 tbsp nutmeg 2 cps butter Sift dry and spices together. With a pastry cutter, cut butter into dry ingredients until it resembles coarse cornmeal. Spread evenly over apple filling. Bake until golden brown at 375°F. Apple Filling 6 medium granny smith apples peeled, cored, cut into1/3 inch slices 1/2 cup sugar 2 tbsp all purpose flour Mix apples with the flour sugar mixture and let sit for 1 hour. Fill ramekins. Cover with above topping. Honey Gelato 16 oz cream 8 oz milk 8 oz honey 5 oz egg yolks 1 cinnamon stick Basic ice cream base cooked to 180°F.
Pastry Chef Voice Restaurant and Lounge, Hotel Icon 220 Main Street Houston, Texas 77002 Tel: 832.667.4470 www.hotelicon.com/voice-restaurant
22 Pastry & Baking North America
Warm Apple Crisp with Honey Gelato
Amoretti 2008 World Pastry Team Championship
24 Pastry & Baking North America
week after the closing ceremonies in Beijing – Gold, Silver, and Bronze medals were once again awarded to the best and most talented teams in the world, but this time it was at the Amoretti® 2008 World Pastry Team Championship. Hosted by Carymax, an event production company based in New York, the event took place at the Gaylord Opryland Convention Center & Resort in Nashville USA on August 31 and September 1, 2008. The Amoretti-sponsored event attracted teams from Belgium, China, Italy, Mexico, Russia, South Korea, as well as Japan and Switzerland. Team USA took the Gold medal, captained by Laurent Branlard, renowned Executive Pastry Chef at the Walt Disney World Swan and Dolphin Hotel, with teammates Stéphane Tréand, Executive Pastry Chef at the St. Regis Resort, Monarch Beach, CA, and Dimitri Fayard, owner of Vanille Patisserie in Chicago. The Silver medal was won by Team Japan. Consisting of Hideki Kawamura, Team Captain, Chef/Owner of Patisserie A Tes Souhaits, Tokyo; Koji Fujita, Pastry Chef, Hiro Coffee, Osaka; and Koichi Izumi, Pastry Chef, Salon de the Cerisier, Toyko. Team Switzerland took the Bronze Medal. Members were: Guilano Sargenti, Team Captain, Head of Development, Confiseur Läderach, AG; Elias Läderach, Production Development Confiseur Läderach, AG, Ennenda; and Fabian Rimann, Chef-Patissier, Hotel Baur au Lac, Zurich. The teams competed creating masterful entremets, entremet glacé, three different types of chocolate bon bons and petits gateaux, a pastillage tray, and plated desserts, culminating with the pieces de resistance: the Sugar Showpiece and the Chocolate Showpiece. During the grueling 13-hour long competition, pounds of sugar were sprayed, blown, spun, stretched, twisted, and decorated into unique delectable art forms all inspired by the event theme “Imagination”.
ARTISTIC USA JAPAN SWITZERLAND ITALY BELGIUM SOUTH KOREA CHINA MEXICO RUSSIA PLATED DESSERT BONBONS ENTREMET ENTREMET PETITS GLACE GATEAUX WORK TOTAL
347 335 290.3 272.8 250 232 146.2 112.5 92
76 48 63.2 51.2 74.4 47.2 -4.4 28 33.6
67.5 50 60 52 35.5 46 31.7 15.7 27
70.3 61 45 76 73.7 47.3 37 41.5 35
68 68 60 77.3 66 52 -3.3 40 32
80.7 62.7 62.3 58 76.3 46.7 38.5 6 -9.5
345 336.5 311 303.8 295 238.8 270.2 217 195.8
1054.5 961.2 891.9 891.1 870.9 710 515.9 460.7 405.9
Seated Right – Jack and Maral Barsoumian from Amoretti
Held every even-numbered year, the World Pastry Team Championships feature teams of three pastry chefs, each competing over a course of two days for the first place cash prize of $50,000, with a total of $100,000 handed out among the top three medaling teams. Highly acclaimed judges from around the world awarded points in three categories based 30% on artistry, 30% on formulation/technique, and 40% on dégustation (quality of flavor, taste). Training for months like tri-athletes, teams strived for perfect execution in all three areas with precision timing. Team USA’s Sugar Showpiece stood a heart-stopping seven feet tall with swirling strands of amorphous blown sugar, resembling a highly polished glass sculpture with detailed images of frogs, flowers, faces, and floating bubbles. The extraordinary Chocolate Showpiece, also seven feet tall, was replete with colorful realistic butterflies, hummingbirds, and enchanting faces.
USA Entremet – White Chocolate Exotic Imagination
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USA Entremet Glace – Imagination Yuzu-Raspberry
Jeong Sang Kyun – Korea
As a previous winner, Team USA Captain Laurent Branlard felt the pressure of once again putting his skills to the test, “this time around was certainly more nerve raking then my first event. As a gold medalist, people expect a lot. Additionally, as Captain, there are managerial and logistical responsibilities that compound the day to day anxiety.” When asked about Team USA’s inspiration for their extraordinary showpieces, Laurent revealed that science fiction novelist Jules Verne played a pivotal role, “with the theme of ‘Imagination’ we all started to think about what people dream about? It quickly came to us that high on the list are flight and living under the ocean. Since we all had read Vingt Mille Lieues Sous Les Mers (20,000 Leagues Under the Seas) as kids, we conceptualized our showpieces with that novel in mind.”
Japanese Plated Dessert
Team China Entremet Glace
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Congratulations to the winning Team in Nashville
World Pastry Team Championship 2008
Miami, Houston, New York, Los Angeles Toll free: (800) 347 9477
Max Felchlin AG Schwyz/Switzerland www.felchlin.com
Swiss Chalet Fine Foods and Felchlin Switzerland congratulate Team Branlard – Laurent Branlard, Dimitri Fayard and Stéphane Tréand – on winning the gold medal at the 2008 World Pastry Team Championship in Nashville.
Japanese Entremet Glace Laurent Barnlard – USA
However, Team USA’s decisive victory didn’t come without drama. Early after the start of Day 1, the Belgium judge called into question a portion of Team USA’s pastillage. After a lengthy discussion among the judging panel and organizers, Team USA was given the green light to continue. To make matters worse, on Day 2, Team USA encountered a faulty oven. But, as true professionals, the three chefs soldiered on and presented all their creations in a timely fashion. As is the case in many international pastry competitions, degustation (taste) proved to be the ultimate differentiator for Team USA who bested the competition by a wide margin in that category. Quick to give credit where credit is due, Captain Laurent acknowledged his team’s use of top of the line products. “I’m confident that Amoretti’s superior flavorings and pastry ingredients contributed to our team taking Gold.” Amoretti, proud sponsor of the National and World Pastry Team Championships, are also leaders in manufacturing worldclass pastry ingredients, supplying to renowned patisseries, chocolatiers, ice creameries, five-star hotels, restaurants, gourmet coffee chains, Fortune 500 industrial bakeries, as well as presidential & royal palaces throughout the world. Next year the National Pastry Team Championship moves back to Arizona.
USA Petit Gateaux
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Visit the Dobla st
19-23 october in Paris, France Booth number: 5A P156
Associate member of:
Recipe made by
WORLD PASTRY TEAM CHAMPIONSHIP
Director of Aula Chocovic S.L. Ramon used the Dobla Filter telescope dark.
Dobla is exclusively imported by:
DOBLA BV, The Netherlands
Please check our site to find your local distributor: www.dobla.com
in2food, Inc, 1775 Breckinridge Parkway, Suite 600 Duluth, GA 30096
5231 - www.fbd.be
Competitions Raspberry Gelee
500g raspberry puree 100g sugar 12g nh pectin 40g lemon juice 1. Bring raspberry puree,sugar and pectin to 104ºC. 2. Add the lemon juice.
600g exotic fruit puree 35g sugar 2g vanilla bean 45g water 8g gelatine 1. Bring to a boil the puree, sugar and vanilla bean. 2. Add the bloomed gelatine.
500g exotic fruit puree 250g heavy cream 155g sugar 240g yolks 6g gelatine 30g water 1. 2. 3. 4. Bring to a boil the puree and cream. Pour over the mixture yolks and sugar. Proceed to a créme anglaise. Add the bloomed gelatine.
White Chocolate Exotic Imagination (Entremet) Courtesy of Team USA
250g butter 130g almond flour 230g cake flour 130g confectioner sugar 70g feuilletine 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Mix soft butter with confectioner sugar. Add the cake flour and almond flour. Slowly mix in the feuilletine. Roll it out to 3mm. Bake at 300ºF for 12 minutes.
White Chocolate Mousse
170g water 50g 0% milk powder 170g yolks 40g glucose 450g milk 5g vanilla bean 300g yolks 30g gelatine 150g water 1100g white chocolate 1240 heavy cream 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Pour the yolks in a mixing bowl. Bring water, 0% milk powder and glucose to a boil. Pour over the yolks and let it whip to ribbon stage. Make a créme anglaise with the milk, vanilla bean and yolks. Add the gelatine and pour over the white chocolate. Add the whipped cream to the white chocolate mixture. Slowly fold in the whipped yolks.
200g sugar 4g nh pectin 125g glucose 200g butter 200g shredded coconut 1. 2. 3. 4. In saucepan melt butter and glucose. Add the sugar and pectin. Slowly mix in the coconut Pour over sheet pan and bake at 350ºF for 12 minutes.
Coconut Lime Dacquoise
95g almond flour 95 shredded coconut 155g confectioner sugar 200g egg whites 45g sugar 5g lime zest 1. Make a French meringue with the egg whites and sugar to soft peak. 2. Add the lime zest and fold in the almond flour, confectioner sugar and coconut. 3. Spread over sheet pan and bake at 350ºF for 9 minutes.
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720g sugar 700g cream 540g exotic puree 90g cornstarch 95g water 30g gelatine 150g water 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Make a dry caramel using the sugar. Deglaze with the warm cream. Add the warm exotic puree. Mix the water with cornstarch and add it to the mix. Bring to a boil and add the bloomed gelatine.
100g sugar 35g water 100g yolks 80g pistachio puree 350g heavy cream
1. 2. 3. 4. Whip the yolks in a mixing bowl. Bring the sugar and water to 118ºC and pour over the yolks. Whip until I the mix reaches 50ºC. Add the pistachio and the whip cream.
220g water 120g sugar 45g atomized glucose 5g sorbet stabilizer 500g raspberry puree 10g lemon juice
1. 2. 3. 4. Boil together the water, sugar, atomized glucose and sorbet stabilizer. Let it mature for 2 hours. Mix in the raspberry and lemon juice. Run thru the ice cream machine for 7 minutes.
Yuzu Ice Cream
1150g milk 420g cream 50g trimoline 90g 0% milk powder 95g atomized glucose 120g yolks 375g sugar 5g ice cream stabilizer 5 grams monostearate 400g yuza juice 15g yuza zest
1. Bring to a boil the milk, cream, trimoline, 0% milk powder, atomized glucose and yuzu zest. 2. Mix together the yolks with the sugar, ice cream stabilizer and monostearate. 3. Proceed to a créme anglaise. 4. Let it mature overnight. 5. The next day strain out the yuzu zest and add the yuzu juice. 6. Run thru the ice cream machine for 7 minutes.
Imagination Yuzu-Raspberry (Entremet Glace)
Courtesy Team USA
200g sugar 4g NH Pectin 125g glucose 200g butter 200g shredded coconut
1. 2. 3. 4. In saucepan melt butter and glucose. Add the sugar and pectin. Slowly mix in the coconut. Pour over sheet pan and bake at 350ºF for 12 minutes.
Coconut Lime Dacquoise
95g almond flour 95g shredded cocut 155g confectioner sugar 200g egg whites 45g sugar 5g lime zest
1. Make a French meringue with the egg whites and sugar to soft peak. 2. Add the lime zest and fold in the almond flour, confectioner sugar and coconut. 3. Spread over sheet pan and bake at 350ºF for 9 minutes.
200g sugar 100g water 145g mango puree 50g apricot puree 17g cornstarch 20g water 6g gelatine 30g water
1. 2. 3. 4. Boil together the water, sugar, mango and apricot puree. Mix the water with the cornstarch and add it to the boiling syrup. Bring it to a boil. Add the bloomed gelatine.
240g raspberry puree 100g sugar 15g trimoline 20g litchi alcohol 1g rose compound
1. Bring raspberry puree, sugar and trimoline to a boil. 2. Add the litchi alcohol and rose compound.
Green Chocolate Spray
300g white chocolate 200g cocoa butter 15g green chocolate coloring
1. Melt the white chocolate and cocoa butter. 2. Add the green chocolate coloring.
Welcome to Ben’s Lab, where science, food and fun come together to be analyzed. Today, I am using a class IV CO2 gas laser to see what happens when I blast some food at upwards of 2,800 degreesºF. The results are dramatic and tasty. The intense aroma and flavor enhancement of vanilla when vaporized is very powerful. By blasting it with such a high temperature, the solid (vanilla bean) turns directly into a gas and there is no burned or charred notes. Lab Notes: • When dripping liquids into liquid nitrogen, avoid clumps of pellets freezing together by adjusting the flow of the separatory funnel to a slow single drip. A hand-held squeeze bottle can also be used if separatory funnel is unavailable. • In this particular dish, I garnished a vanilla creme brulee with a warm blueberry sorbet and a crunchy “praline” of blueberries and lavender. Feel free to utilize any flavor combination desired.
Publisher’s Note: Ben Roche is the pastry chef at Moto Restaurant in Chicago. Fascinated with science after discovering Alka Seltzer “bombs” as a kid, Ben’s approach to pastry is unconventional, to say the least. In addition to his pastry chef duties, chef Roche also runs Roche Original Concepts LLC, an organization focused on food design, product development, and creative consultation.
Vanilla bean Root beer sorbet base Heat stable créme brulee custard Madiera wine Garnish materials
Blowtorch Small metal mixing bowl of sugar Small angled spatula Red wine (Bordeaux) glass CO2 class 4 laser Separatory funnel Metal strainer 1 quart container Insulated container for liquid nitrogen Lab ring stand Beam dump (to catch laser beam) Safety goggles Vanilla bean Lab forceps Root beer sorbet base Heat stable crËme brulee custard Madiera wine Ingredients/materials for garnish
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1. Fill insulated dewar with liquid nitrogen and position separatory funnel above. 2. Fill separatory funnel with root beer sorbet. 3. Drip slowly into dewar of liquid nitrogen. 4. Drops should freeze separately in the liquid nitrogen, not in clumps. 5. Strain out with metal strainer, transfer to small metal container in freezer, allow to temper in freezer for at least 1 hour before use. 6. Coat top of custard with sugar. 7. Brulee sugar with blowtorch, until caramelized. 8. Place caramelized custard on plate.
9. Safely position CO2 laser to point into beam disposal unit. 10. Position a vanilla bean to stand upright in the line of the laser beam. 11. Using laser at half power, vaporize vanilla bean, trapping smoke in glass. 12. Cover brulee custard with smoked glass (for vanilla vapor infusion). 13. After 3-5 minutes, uncover glass from brulee, pour madiera in glass and add a spoonful of rootbeer sorbet drops. 14. Place dollop of puree, cream, warm custard, etc. next to brulee.
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15. Garnish créme brulee custard with accompaniment of choice (perhaps something ‘oh-so-delicious’).
Dressing up Bread with Decorative Dough
n my last trip to Europe, I had the wonderful opportunity to visit the famed pastry shop of Pierre Hermes. As I approached, I saw that the line of people went out the door and wrapped half way around the building. I tried to wait patiently, but of course I was filled with excited anticipation of the feast that awaited my eyes. I was not disappointed. The exquisitely presented pastries and sweets were treasures indeed, and I knew I was in for a treat as I watched the sales staff pack and artfully wrap my selection with professionalism and care. Yes, I dropped a small fortune, but the experience alone was worth it and I came out of the store grinning like a child at Disneyworld. As humans, we delight in our sensory experiences, and as bakers and pastry chefs, we embrace these senses whole-heartedly. And while the final test is certainly the taste, the first test we need to pass is most definitely a visual one. Our challenge is to create something out of the ordinary that deserves a second look... a second glance... a second thought of, “That’s beautiful – I wonder what it tastes like?” Most first-time customers rely solely on their eyes when purchasing, so it makes perfect financial sense to invest in your presentation. I have made it somewhat of a mission of mine to encourage bakers to honor the beauty of their craft with a little extra decorative detail. It immediately sets your breads apart from the competition and offers your customers a unique product with individual flair. (And with flour prices at record highs, the beauty of the bread makes the increased cost of a buying a loaf a little easier to swallow!) So, try working a little decorative dough into your schedule and experiment with shapes, techniques, and packaging. Give your customers the gift of a little extra beauty and care and who knows, maybe your line will grow out the door and down the building, too! For more information and ideas, please visit www.breadhitz.com.
Publisher’s Note: Ciril Hitz is the Department Chair for the International Baking and Pastry Institute at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island. He has been recognized both nationally and internationally with numerous awards and accomplishments. Ciril recently published two DVD series: Bread Art and Better Bread. His upcoming book, Baking Artisan Bread, is due for released in October 2008. More information on Ciril and his work can be found on his web site: www.breadhitz.com.
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Decorative Dead Dough Syrup
Ingredients Granulated Sugar Water Glucose Metric 980g 950g 350g Pounds 2# 2.5 oz 2# 1.44 oz 12.34 oz % 100 97 35
1. Boil water. 2. In a separate clear bowl or container, combine sugar and glucose. 3. Scale boiling water to desired weight. 4. Pour the boiling water into the sugar/glucose mixture and stir until all of the crystals have dissolved. 5. Store at room temperature for up to one week. *This formula will be enough syrup for 31/2 batches of dead dough.
White Decorative Dead Dough
Ingredients Whole wheat flour Light Buckwheat Flour Decorative Dough Syrup Metric 750g 250g 640g Pounds 1# 10.4 oz 8.81 oz 1# 6.56 oz % 75 25 64
Brown Decorative Dead Dough
Ingredients White Rye Flour Light Buckwheat Flour Decorative Dough Syrup Molasses Metric 750g 250g 460g 200g Pounds 1# 10.4 oz 8.81 oz 1# 7.05 oz % 75 25 46 20
Red Decorative Dead Dough
Ingredients White Rye Flour Light Buckwheat Flour Dark Chili Powder Decorative Dough Syrup Metric 650g 250g 100g 640g Pounds 1# 1 oz 8.81 oz 31/2 1# 6.56 oz % 65 25 10 64
Method of Procedure for all Decorative Dead Doughs: 1. Combine the dry ingredients in a large bowl. 2. Add the syrup and mix together by hand with a plastic bowl scraper. 3. Add more syrup to achieve the desired consistency (similar to marzipan). 4. Finish working the dough on the table until it feels smooth with no dry spots. 5. Cover with plastic wrap. 6. Can be used for up to three days. 7. Bake in a convection oven at 320ºF until some caramelization color is achieved. 8. Dough will be soft when removed from oven but will harden upon cooling.
1. Prepare the syrup. See formula. Cool before scaling it into the dough. 2. Mixing the dough by hand is the gentlest way of combing ingredients without over-mixing them. It is okay to add more syrup to attain the correct consistency.
6. To marbleize the dough, take the desired colors and compress them together while rolling them into a log. Once the desired thickness has been achieved, give the log a twist. 7. Take the twisted dough roll and coil in a snail-like manner, then compress it with your hand. Using a rolling pin, roll out until the desired thickness is achieved (1/4” to 3/16” for this project). 8. Dust a precut piece of marbleized dough with some flour, then press the dough into a springerle mold of your choice. Carefully remove the dough from the mold and re-cut the piece to the desired shape. Bake and cool. Spray with a food-grade shellac.
3. Once the dough comes together, finish the mixing procedure on the table. Add a little flour if the dough feels too sticky. Wrap the dough completely with plastic wrap to prevent any crust from forming. 4. When silkscreening, it is best to use plain dough to achieve the ideal image contrast. Sheet the dough to the desired thickness and place the dough on a completely flat surface. Warmed cocoa paste works great for silkscreening since it does not set too fast during the process. 5. After silkscreening the image, use a regular cookie cutter to carefully cut out the printed disc, making sure not to smear the image. Cut a small hole at the top of the disc using a straight pastry tip and apply a decorative edge around the disc. Bake. Once cooled, spray the disc with a food-grade shellac.
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Vanilla bavaroise with a raspberry cream insert topped with a raspberry and rose water sugar crusted liquor finished on an almond dacquoise base.
This is one of my favourite shapes as it always looks elegant garnished in a variety of styles. I always enjoy this flavour combination and the textural structure is just as essential to me as the flavour.
Publisher’s Note: Kirsten Tibballs is one of Australia’s most celebrated and internationally respected pastry chefs. Specialising in chocolate and patisserie, Kirsten is the Australian Ambassador for Callebaut and Cacao Barry Chocolate and she established the Savour Chocolate and Patisserie School in Melbourne in 2002. For more information visit www.savourschool.com.au
Ingredients Boiron Raspberry Puree Whole raspberries Raspberry Liquor Rose Water Sao Thome Couverture 70% Dutch Cocoa Powder 22-24% Grenade Couverture 60% Star Fix Neutral Glaze Equipment Demarle Flexipan® Small and Large Cones (Ref 1083 & Ref 1103) Set of Round Cutters Acetate Sheet Silicon Paper Silpat® Mat Disposable Piping Bag No. 9 Plain Round Piping Nozzle Depositor Angled Palette Knife Sieve 8cm Diameter Round Cake Boards Starch Tray Starch Mould
42 Pastry & Baking North America
Almond Dacquoise 155g Almond Meal 200g Pure Icing Sugar 50g Flour 250g Egg Whites 150g Caster Sugar 50g Blanch almonds (roughly chopped) 30g Pure Icing Sugar (for dusting) 1. Whisk egg whites to a soft peak and slowly add the caster sugar. 2. Allow the sugar to dissolve then remove from the mixer and fold in the sifted dry ingredients. 3. Pipe onto prepared Silpat® mat. 4. Bake at 170ºC for 15 minutes or until golden brown.
3. Boil sugar and water to 116ºC. 4. Warm up a stainless steel bowl and pour the sugar mixture once it has reached temperature into the bowl then pour the alcohol into the warm saucepan, then the alcohol over the sugar. 5. Pour this mixture back into the saucepan and repeat the process back and forth three times. 6. Then pour it into the depositor and fill the starch moulds. 7. Cover the top of the deposited liquor with additional sifted starch heated to 80ºC. 8. Leave for 1.5 hours then cover the starch tray with a flat tray and flip over and leave for at least another 1.5 hours.
Vanilla Bavaroise 300ml Milk 12g Gelatine 100g Sugar 4 Vanilla Beans 6 Yolks 600ml Semi Whipped Cream 35% butterfat 1. Make an anglaise by boiling the milk and vanilla, separately mix the egg yolks and sugar together and pre-soak the gelatine. 2. Pour the boiled milk over the egg yolk mixture and whisk before placing the mixture back on the heat and stirring constantly to bring it to 84ºC. 3. Strain the mixture and cool immediately to 35ºC before folding through the semi whipped cream.
Glaze 240g Cream 50g Water 360g Sugar 100g Dutch cocoa powder 22-24% 20g Grenade 60% couverture 11g Gelatine 100g Star fix neutral glaze 1. Boil cream, sugar and water and then add the cocoa powder and star fix. 2. Boil again then remove from the heat and add pre-soaked gelatine then strain over the couverture. 3. Whisk until all the couverture is combined then use the glaze when it reaches 35ºC.
Raspberry Cream 100g Boiron Raspberry Puree 30g Egg Yolks 38g Eggs 30g Castor Sugar 38g Butter 1g Gelatine Sheets 100g Raspberries 1. Combine all the ingredients, except the butter and gelatine. 2. Bring to 85ºC stirring constantly, remove from the heat and then add the pre soaked gelatine. 3. Sieve the mixture before adding butter.
Raspberry Liquor 250g Sugar 100g Water 115g Raspberry Liquor 60% 10g Rose Water 100g Sao Thome 70% couverture (for dipping) 1. Prepare wheat starch in a wooden tray and heat it to 80ºC. 2. Press into the starch with prepared shaped moulds and continue to keep warm until needed.
1. Prepare raspberry liquor according to recipe and pour the mixture from the bowl to the saucepan three times to ensure it is thoroughly mixed without agitating it too much. 2. Deposit the raspberry liquor mixture into the prepared heated starch tray.
6. When the raspberry cream has cooled to 35-40ºC, incorporate the butter in pieces and emulsify. 7. Place a piece of raspberry in the base of the small cone Flexipan® then pour the raspberry cream at on top and freeze before unmoulding. 8. Pour the cool prepared vanilla anglaise onto the semi whipped cream and fold gently without over mixing.
3. Remove the sugar crusted liquor from the starch and brush them to remove any excess starch. 4. Dip the sugar crusted liquor in crystallised Sao Thome couverture to avoid it dissolving when inserted into the vanilla bavaroise. 5. Pipe the dacquoise base into 5cm discs on a Silpat® mat then sprinkle the top with roughly chopped almonds and dust with icing sugar.
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9. Pipe the vanilla bavaroise into the Flexipan® large cone and smooth the mixture into the sides of the mould with a spoon to avoid air bubbles. 10. Place the frozen raspberry cream into the centre of the vanilla bavaroise then pipe another thin layer of vanilla bavaroise on top. 11. Place the chocolate coated sugar crusted liquor into the next layer of vanilla bavaroise and cover with another layer of vanilla bavaroise mixture. 12. Place the baked dacquoise onto the base and level it off with a palette knife then freeze the cones. 13. Crystallise white couverture and spread a thin layer on an acetate sheet. Cut rings to fit in layers on the cone to garnish. Cover the white couverture with a piece of silicone paper and another tray on top to keep rings flat. 14. Take the frozen cones and place on a rack and ladle with prepared glaze. Remove from rack and place on individual boards. 15. Take prepared white couverture rings and place in sequential order on top of the cones and garnish with gold leaf.
Chef in Focus
Winning Big in Macau
Returning to Asia to take on a ‘Mount Everest’ opportunity, executive pastry chef Jason Licker pumps up the volume in the world’s biggest casino and takes Pastry & Baking North America on a tour of the massive Venetian Macau.
By Campbell Ross Walker Photography The Venetian Visual Arts Team and Karlheinz Ritter.
46 Pastry & Baking North America
Chef in Focus
the demands of each of the Venetian’s outlets, everything fell into place. “At the end of the day, it is still a pastry kitchen with the keys to success being communication, organization and patience. There are so many outlets and banquets going on at the same time the only way to succeed is to establish a crystal clear line of communication so the entire team understands each clients’ needs,” says Jason. “Clear communication” with his team would have been a barrier for most young expat chefs but Jason is no newcomer to Asia. A veteran of the bustling Shangahi hotel scene, Jason was prepared for the challenges in Macau. “I know it sounds clichéd but everyone here speaks the international language of ‘the kitchen’. In Shanghai, I learned a lot of Chinese phrases and adjusted my demeanor in order to get the most out of the team. A firm approach balanced with respect and a strong work ethic is highly effective in China. If you think as the “executive’ chef you can rein over your kingdom, bark out orders and treat everyone poorly as they do in Europe – and to some extent in the States – you might as well stay home. That’s not going to fly over here,” says Jason. And “over here” is where the action is these days. It is exhausting and frustrating to look at Macau and try to describe it, because by the time you read this it will have changed. There are more cranes and construction projects on these three islands than anywhere else in the world. The steady hum of building and industry carries on three shifts a day, seven days a week. The flashes of the arc welding on the unfinished towers, soon to become the new skyline, compete with the strobe lights and vertical acres of neon that identify their already completed neighbors.
f you’re going to travel half way around the world in search of a culinary challenge, might as well aim high. Or, in the case of pastry pro Jason Licker, take aim at the biggest casino in the world. Until you lay eyes on The Venetian Macau it’s difficult to comprehend the enormity of the structure and the absolutely daunting task of being its executive pastry chef. As the second largest building in the world, The Venetian Macau can hold 90 Boeing 747 jumbo jets. The property boosts 3,000 suites, 1,200,000 sq ft of convention space, 1,600,000 sq ft of retail, 550,000 sq ft of casino space – including 3,400 slot machines and 800 gaming tables. A renaissance Venice themed luxury destination, The Venetian Macau has been packed since its soft opening in July 2007. With average daily crowds of 100,000 veracious gamblers and sightseers, this behemoth needs every available hand to service its 35 F&B outlets. And, with Asia Pacific’s growing appreciation for tradition “European” pastry and desserts, executive pastry chef Jason Licker finds himself smack in the center of the world’s busiest pastry kitchen. Reports are he is exceeding management’s expectations however he’d be the first to admit there was a steep learning curve. “The first month was tough. Considering it takes me 15 minutes just to walk from my office to my morning meeting, my initial acclimation took a back seat to just trying to find my way around. Although I never questioned my decision to take on the job, there were days I thought we definitely needed more staff,” says a very fit chef Jason. But once Jason got his bearings straight, adjusted his staff, sorted out just the right suppliers and started to better understand
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In fact, where Macau was once known as the Las Vegas of the East, Las Vegas will soon be known as the Macau of the West. It is that big! The Portuguese colonized the tiny Macau peninsula over 400 years ago. Today it is a Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China. “In this day and age its commonplace to throw around phrases like historic, groundbreaking, and revolutionary,” said Sheldon G. Adelson, chairman and chief executive officer of Las Vegas Sands Corp., the parent company of The Venetian Macau. “But it is no overstatement to say that the opening of The Venetian Macau represents a massive paradigm shift for Macau and the future of tourism development in Asia.” Wow, that’s saying something from a guy who knows. With that in mind, consider that during this “historic” coming to market, Macau’s most recognizable property taps an American chef to guide their pastry and baking future. Such an appointment speaks volumes to Jason Licker’s abilities and reputation. At 32 years old, Chef Jason is young compared to other culinary professionals holding down similar positions. And no, he wasn’t a pastry savant who picked up a whisk before he could walk. In actuality, Jason Licker got his start in pastry quite unexpectedly.
Chef in Focus
again, mentorship, a positive working environment and latitude proved the best atmosphere in piquing creativity and passion. After Métrazur, Jason seized an opportunity to work under another great pastry chef in Miami when a FCI classmate alerted Jason to an opening at The Shore Club with pastry chef Kim O’Flaherty. “Chef Kim, a former Coupe De Monde competitor, is world class and the hotel is so dynamic with Nobu Miami Beach as well as four other outlets. During my time in Miami, I was exposed to Nobu’s amazing Japanese fusion cuisine. After a few months on the job, Chef Kim left to pursue an incredible career opportunity, leaving me in charge. At 24 years old, I was executive pastry chef of The Shore Club. Talk about pressure. It was a crazy time and I learned a tremendous amount about pastry, people and life,” says Jason. Two years in Miami flew by and Jason started to yearn for the bright lights of Manhattan. On a weekend excursion to see his parents, Jason interviewed for and was offered the executive pastry chef position at the Peninsula New York. Excited to return home, Jason accepted and spent the next three years honing his craft and adjusting his kitchen mentality towards volume production. “Working at the Peninsula was great. It was exactly what I needed to prepare me for where I am today. Pressure packed, never quiet, always something new to see and learn. Additionally, being in the City afforded me opportunities such as participating in the New York Chocolate Show, Starchefs.com Rising Chef Events as well as live demonstrations at Macy’s flagship store,” says Jason. But, as often is the case in the world of culinary professionals, new challenges are always on the horizon and in 2004 Jason stepped up and answered the call, opening a new chapter in his life that lead him to the crazy, breakneck frontier of an awakening China. Born in New York, Jason grew up in a family of big eaters. The kitchen was the focal point of the household but a culinary education was the furthest thing from his mind. “I was in college pursuing my BA in Secondary English Education when my mother was diagnosed with cancer. The doctors put her on a special diet that drastically reduced her allowed daily intake of sugar, sodium and fat. That meant no more brownies and cookies which did not sit well with my mom. One day, I got a basic recipe for muffins, substituted apple puree for butter, and the results weren’t bad. From that day on, dessert was my thing,” remembers Jason. An avid Food Network viewer, Jason starting buying every culinary magazine he could get his hands. After experimenting in the kitchen at home and in college, Jason sent out cover letters to the top restaurants in New York City. As luck would have it, Stacie Pierce, pastry chef of Union Square Cafe, needed an extra set of hands. She liked Jason’s honest letter and thirst for knowledge and gave him a shot. “Union Square Cafe was and still is regarded as one the best restaurants in New York City. It was my first time in a professional kitchen and Chef Stacie provided me with an invaluable experience and trial by fire that encouraged me to pursue my new passion,” say Jason. “The next step was a formal education and more training and once I visited the French Culinary Institute I knew it was the place for me to learn, immerse and develop the right skill set.” While going to school, Jason worked at Jean-Georges as a pastry cook. He then helped Charlie Palmer open Métrazur in Grand Central Station. At 22, Jason was ordering inventory, making menus, and managing staff. “Charlie told me that I would learn from my mistakes." Indeed, there were lots but
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Chef in Focus
With three years of New York City volume under his belt, Jason took on the culinary and cultural challenges of the Westin Bund Center in Shanghai. Then executive chef Karlheinz Ritter had confidence in Jason and worked closely with the new comer to elevate the properties’ cuisine to new heights. Jason’s team was responsible for the hotel’s eight outlets, the daily weddings and the extraordinary outside catering programs. With China in the midst of an economic awakening, conspicuous consumption was the name of the game. Experiencing fine dining at the Westin Bund was high on the list for many Chinese seeking status and international gastronomy, so it wasn’t uncommon for the property to enjoy 100% occupancy for months at a time. Such a glut provided little time for days-off. Let alone much sleep. “Sometimes I received the orders for a 1,000 person banquet the day of the event. Restaurants were constantly booked solid and outside catering orders were like nothing I’d ever experienced. We did amazing work under intense pressure and I am very proud of the products that came out of that kitchen. In Shanghai, I made lifelong friends and can think of no greater reward than experiencing firsthand China’s emergence onto the world stage,” Jason remembers fondly. Even for a high energy chef like Jason, eventually Shanghai’s hectic lifestyle wore him out. He had given 2 years of his life and that was enough. Returning back to the States, Jason hooked up with his old friends at Nobu and landed a consulting gig in California. The more relaxing and manageable position was a welcomed change and his responsibilities included overseeing pastry production at San Diego, Las Vegas and Los Angeles. Allowed to work on expanding his creativity and exploring new facets of pastry, the Nobu experience was indeed cerebral and enlightening, but, after a few months, Jason Licker longed for the high anxiety of big volume. As fate would have it, he soon
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Chef in Focus
“I know it sounds clichéd but everyone here speaks the international language of ‘the kitchen’. In Shanghai, I learned a lot of Chinese phrases and adjusted my demeanor in order to get the most out of the team. A firm approach balanced with respect and a strong work ethic is highly effective in China.”
received a call from an old friend and colleague, Chef Karlheinz Ritter, who presented Jason with his “Mount Everest’ opportunity: run the pastry operations at The Venetian Macau. Jason accepted. Site and property unseen. “Nope. I didn’t need to make a visit. It was exactly what I’d been preparing for. Biggest casino in the world? An incredible amount of outlets? More banquets than you can shake a stick at? Bring it on,” said Jason. With a penchant for large scale operations, one can’t help but wonder if continual immersion in such vastness has a detrimental impact on Jason’s sense of tradition and fundamentals? Are corners cut and sacrifices made to “just get the food out? Absolutely not. “That’s the beauty of the The Venetian Macau. From the owners to the GM, to the F&B Director down to me, we are all on the same page: quality first. It is so wonderful to know that the direction I want to take and the ingredients I require are wholeheartedly supported all the way up the chain of command. We don’t compromise. Sure, we can produce 4,000 plated desserts in an afternoon but all of them will use the best ingredients, receive the same level of care and attention and taste exactly the same,” says Jason. “I love pastry because it offers limitless creativity. It’s a combination of flavors, textures, temperature and presentations. Pastry can reflect personality and emotion and encapsulates so much more than just cooking. It’s a community. A team concept that embraces a common goal. Even when played on the largest field in the world!”
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Chef in Focus
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Ginger Cream with Blackberries
1000g cream Fresh ginger peeled, chopped. 100g sugar 17.5g softened gelatin sheets 1. Boil the cream, sugar and ginger and infuse till desired taste. 2. Warm the cream and add gelatin. 3. Pour into a mold and freeze. 4. Cut 7cm long and 2cm width and height.
227g butter, soft 255 oz sugar 191 oz all purpose flour 227g corn syrup 5g vanilla extract 1. Mix together butter and sugar 2. Add corn syrup and vanilla. 3. Add flour and bake at 175ºC till golden brown.
400g cream 400g blackberry puree 200g simple syrup Lemon to taste Combine and place in a sifon gun and use two cartridges. Assembly Chocolate Garnishes Blackberries Chopped Walnuts Blackberries Sauce 1. Smear the blackberry sauce across the plate. 2. Position the ginger cream in the center. 3. Place some blackberry foam on the right corner and garnish with blackberry and chopped walnuts. 4. Arrange garnishes.
All About The
Tools: Acrylic glass or plastic Airbrush Bicycle, multi-wheel expandable cutter Offset spatula Parchment paper Plastic acetate Putty knife Stencil Ingredients: Dark chocolate Colored cocoa butter – brown, yellow and green
Publisher’s Note: In the world of gourmet chocolate creation, few can match the career and quality of Norman Love. As the former executive pastry chef for The Ritz-Carlton Company, Norman Love understands the importance of quality and presentation and his global brand of artisan chocolates can be found in innumerable retailers, restaurants and hotels around the world. For more information on Chef Norman and his gourmet chocolates, please visit his website (www.normanloveconfections.com) or his retail salon in Fort Myers, Florida.
1. Place stencil on top of the acetate and spray completely with brown cocoa butter. 2. Quickly remove the stencil.
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4. Apply dark chocolate.
9. Sandwich and keep the chocolate perfectly flat by placing an acrylic glass/plastic square, or a heavy flat object, directly on top of the parchment paper for a minimum of two hours. This will allow the chocolate to completely crystallize. 10. Remove plastic acetate. 11. Gently separate individual plaquettes into small polka dotted squares. Use to enrobe to pastry exterior of the pastry.
3. Apply second color – yellow/green – directly on top of stenciled polka dots. Cover evenly and completely. Allow the two colors to dry. 5. Spread a thin layer of the dark chocolate couverture. Allow the chocolate to slightly solidify. 6. Open the bicycle to approximately one inch per wheel. 7. Drag wheels both horizontally and vertically across the chocolate slab. 8. Apply parchment paper on top of slab.
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exquisite chocolate. excellent price.
ALBERT USTER IMPORTS 1.800.231.8154 WWW.AUISWISS.COM
FOAMING – Part 2
The general definition of foam is a substance that is formed by trapping many gas bubbles in a liquid or solid. This process can be achieved mechanically, but it can also be achieved through the incorporation of air via another type of gasónitrous oxide (N2O) – using a siphon cream dispenser. Foams are typically quite fragile and prone to deflation unless stabilized by the addition of a substantial amount of sugar. As mentioned in Part One, foaming through the use of typically freeze dried egg white powder reconstituted with a liquid provides many possibilities. Note that the less liquid used for re-hydration, the more stable the foam will be even without any sugar added. Another method is to use a thickened, hot aromatic liquid (i.e. xanthan) and pour it over the foamed, fresh egg whites along with gelatin (as the emulsifier and stabilizer). This results in foams that can be served hot or cold. The amount of gelatin, along with the density and temperature of the liquid, yields foams that are thick like a mousse, fluid like a cream, or liquid like a soup.
WARM STRAWBERRY FOAM
6 Tbsp (90 g) granulated sugar 2 Tbsp (30 mL) water 1 tsp (5 g) ALBEN 3 Tbsp (45 mL) strawberry purée 1 gelatin leaf, bloomed Bring the sugar and water to a boil. Continue cooking until it reaches 240ºF (120ºC). Meanwhile, whip the strawberry purée with the ALBEN on medium speed with an electric mixer. As the sugar mixture is thickening, turn the mixer’s speed up to maximum. Pour the sugar syrup over the ALBEN mixture while continuing to mix. Add the bloomed gelatin and when fully incorporated, reduce the speed to low for about 3 minutes.
Publisher’s Note: Dominique and Cindy Duby are the chefs and owners of DC DUBY Wild Sweets®, a critically acclaimed chocolate atelier and virtual boutique, which has emerged as one of North America’s finest artisan chocolatiers. The couple also owns DC DUBY Hospitality Services Inc., a Vancouver-based international firm offering culinary training and consulting services to hotels and catering companies worldwide, as well as culinary creative and marketing services such as product development, food styling, and photography. For more information, visit www.dcduby.com
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1 Tbsp (15 mL) grapeseed oil zest of 1 orange 1 oz (25 g) white chocolate, finely chopped 1 Tbsp (15 g) butter 5 Tbsp (75 mL) orange juice 1/4 cup (50 g) granulated sugar 1 gelatin leaf, bloomed
Warm the grapeseed oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Remove from heat, add the orange zest and cover with plastic wrap. Let it infuse for 15 minutes. Place the chocolate and butter in a container. Bring the orange juice and sugar to a boil. Add the bloomed gelatin, stir until dissolved, pour over the chocolate and butter. Strain the infused oil into the chocolate mixture and mix until well combined using a blender.
3 Tbsp (45 g) corn syrup 1/4 cup (25 g) almonds, coarsely chopped Preheat the oven to 350ºF (180ºC). Line a baking tray with a silicon mat. Dip a brush in the syrup and paint any shape outline. Dust with some almonds and bake for about 5 minutes in the preheated oven. Let it cool completely and store in an airtight container.
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Photography by Ben Fink Courtesy of Confetti Cakes for Kids
Publisher’s Note: Elisa Strauss is the owner of Confetti Cakes and specializes in handsculpted delicious works of art. Elisa and her creations have appeared on numerous national television shows and in the pages of countless international publications. A frequent competitor on the Food Network, Elisa’s first book, The Confetti Cakes Cookbook, was released in Spring 2007 and is in its fourth printing, and her second book entitled Confetti Cakes for Kids is due out in November. For more information, please visit www.confetticakes.com.
Sculpting the Chocolate Cake 1. Set the cake on a turntable. Use a serrated knife to trim the edges off your block of cake to the approximate width you want your ball to be at its widest point. 2. Using a smaller serrated knife, carve away small pieces of cake at a time to create a ball shape. Remember, go slowly. It’s like a haircut – once you cut it off it’s too late to glue it back on! 3. When the ball shape is complete, trim away the excess cake board to fit the new shape – and you’re ready to crumb coat.
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Working with Fondant:
1. Using a small strainer, dust a flat, clean surface with cornstarch to prevent the fondant from sticking. 2. Unwrap the fondant and knead it until it becomes soft, then shape it into a round ball and flatten slightly. 3. Use a rolling pin to roll out the fondant. As you get started, turn the fondant a few times to make sure it’s even on all sides and that it is not sticking to your surface. Roll it out so the surface area is larger than the cake you need to cover and is about 1/4 inch thick. As you are rolling it out, keep in mind that you need to cover the sides of the cake as well as the top surface. 4. While the fondant is still rolled out on the flat surface, run the fondant smoothers over it to even it out. 5. Pick up the fondant by rolling it gently onto a rolling pin, wiping off any excess cornstarch with a dry pastry brush as you go. Once all the fondant is around the rolling pin, carefully unroll it over the cake. 6. Starting on top of the cake, smooth the surface of the fondant with your hands. Continue along the sides of the cake, gently pressing the fondant to the cake. Do not press the fondant onto itself – it will wrinkle. After the cake is completely covered, gently pull the fondant away from the cake, then smooth it back down, like smoothing the pleats of a skirt. Run the fondant smoothers all over the cake to create a completely smooth surface. 7. When the cake is entirely covered, cut away any excess fondant with a paring knife. First cut away the bulk of the excess, leaving a 1-inch border. Then use the side of your hand to create a crease where the fondant meets the side of the cake and the table. Make a final cut around the bottom of the cake, leaving a straight edge.
Wildly imaginative kids’ cakes, cookies, and cupcakes—
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the most sought-after cake designer in New York City, presents a whimsical collection of cakes, cookies, and cupcakes to delight children—whatever the occasion. Gorgeous photos and step-by-step instructions make creating 24 extraordinary projects easy and fun!
Little, Brown and Company
Hachette Book Group
Lemon Mascarpone Cheesecake
I first created this dessert for the 2005 National Pastry Championship as our fruit petit gateaux. Today, building upon the fresh lemon with raspberry concept, this dessert is one of our house specials here at Rosen Shingle Creek’s Italian restaurant Calla Bella. Our guests appreciate the innovative use of the ultimate Italian pastry cheese and are happy to see mascarpone used outside of the traditional tiramisu.
Fine Sugar Dough Crust Bottom Butter Powder sugar Salt Cake flour Lemon Madeline All purpose flour Baking powder Sugar Salt Lemon zest Eggs Butter soft Lemon Cream Lemon juice fresh Sugar Yolks Whole eggs Butter Lemon mascarpone Granulated sugar Egg yolk Mascarpone Gelatin Water for gelatin Heavy cream Zest Raspberry filling Raspberry puree Pectin Granulated sugar Glucose syrup Trimoline Gelatin Water for gelatin 128 gr. 2 gr. 18 gr. 15 gr. 7.5 gr. 1 gr. 10 gr. 64 gr. 82 gr. 203 gr. 6 gr. 32 gr. 203 gr. 4 lemon 70 gr. 70 gr. 70 gr. 70 gr. 70 gr. 80 gr. 2 gr. 90 gr. Pinch 2 2 100 gr. 220 gr. 80 gr. 2 gr. 200 gr.
Publisher’s Note: David Ramirez is the executive pastry chef at the Rosen Shingle Creek in Orlando and Captain of Team USA headed to the 2009 Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie. For more information on David, visit www.daveramirez.net
Mix with paddle attachment butter, powdered sugar and salt, add cake flour and mix until incorporated. Pipe mixture with round tip same size or a bit smaller than Lemon Madeline sponge. Whip eggs and sugar to ribbon stage and add soft butter in stages. Sift flour and baking powder and fold into batter with salt and lemon zest.
Neutral glaze Water Glucose Sugar Pectin Exotic glaze Neutral glaze from previous recipe Passion fruit puree Mango puree Glucose 500 gr. 50 gr. 50 gr. 100 gr. 200 gr. 100 gr. 200 gr. 5gr.
Combine sugar and pectin in a bowl. Bring to boil water and glucose and add sugar pectin mixture and bring to boil. Bring to boil all four ingredients and blend with hand emulsion blender.
Cook fresh lemon juice, sugar, yolks and whole eggs until mixture thickens and comes to first boil remove from heat. With hand emulsion blender add butter and begin to blend mixture until smooth cool mixture down. Recommendation: Use a PVC wire whip (non metallic) to cook lemon cream mixture.
Bloom gelatin with cold water, cook sugar, yolks, mascarpone and lemon zest bring to first boil remove from heat and add softened gelatin and dissolve. Bloom gelatin. Mix sugar with pectin and separately bring to boil raspberry puree glucose and trimoline. Add the sugar and pectin and bring to boil again. Remove from heat and add bloomed gelatin and blend with hand emulsion blender.
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1. Piping the fine sugar on parchment paper round piping tip and also stencil of circle pattern underneath. Bake at 340ºF to 12 minutes. 2. Lemon Madeline baked in round mold with cavity at 340 for 12 to 16 minutes. 3. Filling lemon Madeline with lemon cream in cavity, lemon Madeline stacked on top of fine baked sugar dough. 4. Mini half sphere mold of lemon mascarpone centers. 5. Cooking raspberry filling. 6. Partially fill medium mold with raspberry filling and mini mascarpone half spheres. NOTE: Do not fill half spheres mold all the way with raspberry filling but just enough to coat the mini mascarpone half spheres so when the dessert is eaten a thin layer of raspberry will complement the lemon and not over power. 7. Push mini mascarpone into raspberry filling creating thin layer of raspberry filling. 8. Cooking mascarpone filling.
13. Push mini mascarpone center into larger flexi half sphere mold filled with lemon mascarpone filling. 14. Use hand emulsion blender for exotic glaze. Critical step. 15. Glaze lemon mascarpone cream. 16. Place lemon mascarpone on top of filled lemon Madeline. 17. Plate dessert with raspberry sauce and chocolate tile décor. Your choice of garnish.
9. Strain through fine chinoise to remove lemon zest. Cool down. 10. Fold in whipped heavy cream to achieve lemon mascarpone filling. 11. Fill pastry bag with mascarpone filling. 12. Remove frozen mini mascarpone centers coated with a thin layer of raspberry filling. Note: work fast as raspberry filling will set rapidly.
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N O R T H A M E R I C A
The only magazine in North America specifically published for dessert professionals. Each issue will provide:
Industry news, current events, competition results. Recipes, demonstrations and the latest techniques. Step by step instruction from our world-renowned panel of Guest Contributors. Truly regional coverage of hard working professionals who share their experiences, stories and advice. Complimentary online site for recipe archives and educational videos.
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