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N O R T H
A M E R I C A
Volume 2 Issue 1 2008
All Eyes on China World Chocolate Masters
PA S T R Y N A . C O M
Everywhere you look these days there is another competition, contest or culinary challenge for dessert professionals. With this increase in the number of events, I hear grumblings from some professionals, gastronomic purests and “management” types that such competitions are negatively realigning the perspective of today’s pastry chefs, bakers, confectioners and chocolatiers. The “anti competition” faction’s argument goes something like this: competitions condition the participating professional to focus on the extreme and flamboyant rather than traditional characteristics and tastes and in doing so, the participant will detrimentally impact their own skills which will ultimately lead to the abandonment of standards in their craft. Quite the hypothesis! Fortunately, this theory is without merit. Yes, competitions do require a great deal of commitment, time and funding and perhaps there in lies the conflict. But, the byproduct of competing far outweighs any short-term sacrifice. As a case in point, please enjoy this issue’s feature on the World Chocolate Masters and be prepared for forthcoming articles on: U.S. Pastry Competition Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie Asian Pastry Cup World Team Pastry Championship International Confectionary Art Competition The Great American Dessert Experience Having attended many a competition, I believe they are a vital part of the industry and act as a catalyst; promoting standards and craftsmanship which are in turn are brought back to various geographic regions via attending representatives. Other obvious benefits to competing include team building, networking and increased confidence. Thus. competitions, whether local, regional or international should be encouraged and widely supported for their educational impact and advancement of skills. Nothing ventured, nothing ever gained. All the best!
N O R T H A M E R I C A
Synergy1 Group, Inc.
PUBLISHER Synergy1 Board of Directors EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Marcionette CREATIVE DIRECTOR Lisa Dinges SENIOR EDITOR Campbell Ross Walker ASIA PACIFIC EDITOR Rachel Lee NETWORK MANAGER Michael Ethier SENIOR WRITERS David Martell, Laura Geatty
CORPORATE OFFICES: North America PO Box 291162 Port Orange, Florida 32129-1162 Email: email@example.com
Asia Pacific 32 Maxwell Road #03-07 White House Building Singapore 069115 Fax: (65) 6323 1839 www.PastryNA.com
Regards, Joe Marcionette Editor-in-Chief email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Pastry & Baking North America Volume 2, Issue 1. All rights reserved. © under Universal International and Pan American Copyright conventions. This publication is a creative work fully protected by all applicable copyright laws, as well as by misappropriation, trade secret, unfair competition and other applicable laws.
2 Pastry & Baking North America
N O R T H A M E R I C A
Join P&B NA on our tour of North America as we visit and showcase talented professionals who share their favorite products and recipes.
Off The Wire
The latest news, happenings, events and product updates.
The incomparable Ewald Notter provides step-by-step instruction and insight into his passion and craft.
Eyes of the World
As China prepares for this summer’s Olympics, pastry professional Charles Zhao returns to his hometown of Beijing to be on the culinary front lines as the eyes of the world focus on the Chinese capital.
Pastry chef and chocolatier extraordinaire Norman Love delves deep into building skills and techniques.
World Chocolate Masters
50 Complete coverage of this event and the extraordinary artistry exhibited.
David Ramirez’s precise approach to pastry serves him well at the Shingle Creek Hotel in Florida and as the newly selected Captain for the Coupe du Monde Team USA 2009.
Legendary Kim Young Mo shares his unique approach to the marriage of classic European pastry/baking with Asian tastes and sensibilities.
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Off The Wire
News, events and happenings from around the region
2008 Great American Pie Festival
The 2008 Great American Pie Festival sponsored by Crisco® will turn the town of Celebration, Fla., into the world’s pie capital for two flavor-filled days, April 19 and 20. Presented by the American Pie Council (APC) – an organization dedicated to preserving America’s pie heritage – the popular festival returns to Celebration with all the activities that have made it a favorite family event for the past five years. The highlight of the festival is the Never Ending Pie Buffet, serving awardwinning pies from commercial bakeries, restaurants and markets, including Bakers Square & Village Inn restaurants; Publix SuperMarkets, Inc.; Schwan’s Bakery featuring Edwards and Mrs. Smith Pies; Bonert’s Slice of Pie, Kenny’s Great Pies, Harlan Bakeries, Sara Lee and Wick’s Pies. An abundant array of ice cream flavors and toppings from The J.M. Smucker Company and Publix allow everyone the opportunity to personalize their pie. Between trips to the buffet, festival attendees can enjoy pieeating contests (by participating or cheering on contestants),
baking demonstrations by professional pie makers on the Demonstration Stage, games and live entertainment – and even the opportunity for young pie enthusiasts to make their own pie at the Crisco® Kids Creation Station. All festival events will be held both days. While attendees enjoy the food and fun, competition heats up with the APC/Cr isco® National Pie Championships as the nation’s leading Commercial, Professional, Amateur and Junior Chef pie bakers vie to determine the top pie in each division. Grand prize in the amateur and professional divisions is $5,000 and serious bragging rights. Competitions will be held at the Orlando Sun Resort by Lexington, Kissimmee, on April 18 through 20. Baking competitions are not open to the public. However, the award ceremonies for the Amateur and Professional divisions will be held at Celebration as part of the festivities, with the Amateur awards presented at 6:45 p.m., April 19; and Professional and Junior Chef awards presented at 2 p.m., April 20. Commercial division awards will be presented in an industry-only ceremony on April 18.
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Business Innovator of the Year
PastryScoop’s Fall 2007 Conference
The French Culinary Institute’s PastryScoop.com, one of the country’s most popular online resources dedicated to supporting and celebrating the art of pastry and baking, recently hosted a day of dessert at their Fall 2007 Conference. Marked as one of New York’s sweetest days of the year, this special event was held in the kitchens of The French Culinary Institute at The International Culinary Center located at 462 Broadway at Grand Street.
The King Arthur Flour Company of Norwich, Vt., was honored recently with the Business Innovator of the Year Award presented for the first time by the Hanover Area Chamber of Commerce. “The innovation King Arthur Flour has been recognized for stems from both the diversity of knowledge and skills among our staff, and the fact that as employee-owners of the company, we have an added incentive to work through that diversity and turn it to our advantage,” said Media Relations Coordinator Allison Furbish. “We encourage our employeeowners to contribute not just their time and energy but their ideas, and that has continually resulted in the kinds of highquality products and creative programs that we’re proud to be able to share.” King Arthur Flour was recognized “for the way it has taken the simple act of baking and innovatively turned that into a far-ranging enterprise that touches the lives of millions in very wholesome ways,” according to the Chamber. “They have accomplished this not only with a great product – regarded by experts as the highest quality flour in America – but also with their imaginative breadth of baking-related products and services, their employee-owned business model and culture, and their everyday commitment to the communities in which they live.” America’s oldest flour company, King Arthur Flour was founded in Boston, Mass., in 1790 and moved its headquarters to Vermont in 1986. The company has grown since then from a regional staple to a brand known nationwide for its purity and consistent quality; from a small mail-order business with five employees in 1990 to the premier baking resource with nearly 200 employees today; from a family-owned operation for five generations to a 100 percent employee-owned business. King Arthur Flour has received several recent recognitions, including the 2006 Outstanding Vermont Business Award, the 2006 Best Place to Work in Vermont Award, and the 2006 Better Business Bureau Local Torch Award for Excellence. King Arthur Flour is the parent company of The Baker’s Catalogue, which offers more than 1,000 professional-grade baking tools and ingredients through its catalogue, online at www.kingarthurflour.com, and at The Baker’s Store in Norwich, Vt.
New York City’s finest pastry chefs and bakers led deliciously designed workshops on a variety of mouthwatering topics including fanciful wedding cakes, desserts with international flavor, and the latest in the high-tech pastry revolution. Guest chefs included Ron Ben-Israel of Ron Ben-Israel Cakes, Nancy Olson of Gramercy Tavern, Dominique Ansel of Daniel, Wendy Israel and Angel Elon of Baking by Design, Magdalena Wong of Kyotofu, Eric Bedoucha of Financier Pâtisserie, Shimme of Whole Foods Market and Jorge Pineda of Candle Café, Victoria Love of The Water Club, Cristobal Julio Guarchaj of Grandaisy Bakery, Jaime Sudberg of The Stanton Social, and Kir Rodriguez, David Arnold, and Nils Norén, of The French Culinary Institute. Whether you were looking to be a seasoned chef, budding home baker, or just someone who enjoys the sweeter things in life, this day of dessert featured lessons on the finer points of cake design with a how-to on custom-made silicone molds, a lesson in French cakes, and a hands-on class on piping techniques. In addition, food lovers explored the bounty of bread with rich brioche, rustic loaves, pizza, and discovered the art of elegant desserts that span the globe with classic Italian style, a Japanese sensibility, and a taste of vintage Americana. But don’t fret, if you missed the festivities… SAVE THE DATE for PastryScoop. com’s Spring 2008 Conference on Sunday, May 4th or log onto www.pastryscoop.com! Event sponsors included The French Culinary Institute, The Italian Culinary Academy, E. Guittard Chocolate Company, Geoff & Drew’s Incredible Cookies, Président Cheese, and Whole Foods Market with special thanks to Everyday Food from the Test Kitchens of Martha Stewart Living and Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, The FCI’s student and staff volunteers and Classic Pastry Arts and Art of International Bread Baking Departments, Gingerbread Homes for Animals, and Pastry & Baking North America.
Off The Wire
Nordic Ware’s Bundts Across America Contest
Anne Kornow from Dexter, Michigan captured the $10,000 grand prize for the “Bundts Across America” baking contest sponsored by Nordic Ware, creator of the Bundt pan. This year’s contest theme was “Holiday Bundts, a pan for all seasons” and Anne Kornow created an original recipe that is melt-inyour-mouth-marvelous! For her winning Bundt cake, Anne also received a trip to New York City to sit in the audience of the Martha Stewart Show on November 15 during the 2nd Annual “National Bundt Day” celebration where she will be recognized for her winning recipe. “This recipe is truly outstanding,” says David Dalquist, president of Nordic Ware. “It has everything that a prize winning Bundt cake should have, with its nice dense texture and its rich chocolate flavor dramatically blended with white chocolate and mint. It is the perfect dessert to serve families and friends while celebrating the upcoming holidays and one that will assure lasting memories of the time spent together.”
cake mimicking the coloring of a mountainside to the dusting of confectioner’s sugar “snow”.” Says Anita Chu. “I thought this entry best utilized the shape of the Bundt pan and captured spirit of the holiday best, as well as being fabulously delicious.” The winning recipe and others can be found at www. nordicware.com/bundts-across-america/winners/year/2007.
A SWEET Event
Manhattan’s sweet tooth was satisfied like never before on November 16th when approximately 1,500 guests descended upon the ultra chic Waterfront to celebrate SWEET, presented by Ferrero Rocher, a deliciously decadent evening with a charitable outcome to end hunger. Guests sampled the mouthwatering creations of New York’s premiere pastry chefs, chocolatiers, confectioners, bakers and fromagers, including such notable James Beard Outstanding Pastry Chef award winners and nominees as Le Bernardin’s Michael Laiskonis (2007), Dessert Studio at Chocolat Michel Cluizel’s Will Goldfarb (2007), Jean Georges’ Johnny Iuzzini (2006), and Karen DeMasco of Craft (2005). Also participating in the festivities were Food Network stars Rachael Ray, Giada De Laurentiis, Duff Goldman, Cat Cora and Sandra Lee. Desserts were complemented by selections of outstanding wines, Champagnes and spirits from the Southern Wine & Spirits, NY portfolio. Guests had the unique opportunity to enjoy a wide range of tempting desserts featuring inventive flavor and texture combinations, such as Tomato with Olive and Balsamic Sorbet by Graffiti’s Jehangir Mehta, Roasted Banana Mille Feuille, Chocolate Fondant with an Avocado Anglaise by Buddakan’s Daniel Skurnick, and Soft Chocolate, Frozen Sesame, Powdered Peanut Butter, Mole, by Tailor’s Sam Mason. More traditional sweet offerings included Petits Fours: Lemon Cupcakes, Caramels, Pumpkin Tarts, Rainbow Cookies and Chocolates by Gotham Bar and Grill’s Deborah Racicot, Chocolate Mousse Cheesecake by Junior’s Alan Rosen, and Wedding Biscotti: A Rosemary and Currant Biscotti by Katie Lee Joel. “We are thrilled to be a part of SWEET presented by Ferrero Rocher, and bring New York a completely different culinary event in honor of our upcoming New York City Wine & Food Festival to hit in 2008,” said Brooke Johnson, President, Food Network. “This is a perfect example of how Food Network will contribute to the generous culinary community with our new charitable partner Share Our Strength.”
Anne Kornow’s winning recipe, “Mint Mountains” celebrates the holiday season using Nordic Ware’s Holiday Tree Bundt Pan. The dense and decadent cake is a combination of white chocolate and chocolate fudge featuring a hint of mint. The pan showcases the cake’s “mountain peaks” through a circle of “snow-capped” evergreen trees. Mint sprigs and crushed red peppermint candy garnish the cake which pleases both the eye and pallet! Along with her grand prize win, Anne Kornow is celebrating a second round of good news that came while she was in San Francisco at the bake-off for the “Bundts Across America” competition. “I was with another finalist on a cable car ride. When I stepped off, my phone began to ring. I answered and got the news my son-in-law Brian was coming home from Iraq. Coupled with the Nordic Ware win, you can imagine how blessed I feel.” The panel of judges included Anita Chu, dessert aficionado and founder of Dessert First; Margo Murdock Murphy, the grand prize winner in the 2006 “Bundts Across America” contest; and Kathy Severson, Vice President Sales and National Sales Manager and a 29+-year employee of Nordic Ware. After seeing and tasting so many Bundt cakes the judges had a hard decision to make but Anne Kornow’s Mint Mountains clearly stood tall above the others. “This looks like a perfect snow covered forest, from layers of white and chocolate
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Back row (left to right): Florian Bellanger (MAD-MAC), Alan Rosen (Junior’s), Morris Harrar (Tisserie Bakery), Sam Mason (Tailor), Will Goldfarb (Dessert Studio at Chocolat Michel Cluizel), Deborah Racicot (Gotham Bar & Grill), Michael Laiskonis (Le Bernardin), Terrance Brennan (Artisanal). Seated: Michael Gabriel (Sea Grill) and Katie Lee Joel (Cookbook Author)
Hit The Books!
Gina’s devotion to fresh ingredients, simple yet elegant style, flawless technique, and uniquely Italian sensibilit y make Dolce Italiano a necessity for anyone who loves cooking and eating Italian food—and for those home cooks who, like Gina, lie awake at night in bed dreaming of the perfect dessert. A celebration of Italian desserts that also gives new meaning to the term “Italian desserts” itself, Dolce Italiano is, as Mario Batali says in his foreword, “pure inspiration.” Gina brings the beloved sweet tastes of Babbo to the home cook in this ground-breaking cookbook and reference tool. BREAD IS BACK! We’ve emerged from the low-carb craze thanks to a national rediscovery of the importance of whole grains. It is no secret now that whole grains are healthy, reducing the risk of heart disease, cancer, and diabetes. Public interest is so great that the number of whole grain products has doubled, and even Wonder Bread has a whole grain loaf. But while we may agree that whole grain breads are better for us, will people eat them? Yes, but only if they taste very, very good. Most whole grain breads taste terrible – some too dense, some too sweet, some too much like cardboard. Peter Reinhart’s Whole Grain Breads has unlocked the “secret” to great tasting whole grain bread, producing loaves that are better than any you have ever had before – rich with flavor and satisfying texture. Delicious whole grain breads are hard to find, but with Peter Reinhart’s Whole Grain Breads, people can make healthy whole grain bread (and crackers, pita bread, naan, and more) so good that their family and friends will not only eat it, but actually prefer it. It can be done!
“An inspiring and comprehensive love letter to regional Italian deserts – and an absolute joy to read.”
— Anthony Bourdain, author of Kitchen Confidential and host of “No Reservations”
Legendary chef Pichet Ong takes food lovers on a journey into the little-known world of Asian desserts in his groundbreaking book THE SWEET SPOT: Asian-Inspired D e s s e r t s . Beautifully photographed and full of anecdotes, Ong introduces readers to a new realm of culinary delight as he reveals the secrets of Asian desserts while making them accessible to home cooks. The recipes presented in THE SWEET SPOT show that Asian desserts can tempt, excite and satisfy in ways traditional American desserts cannot. These spectacular culinary delights focus on making great flavor the top priority. Instead of relying on butter and sugar, the vibrant fruit and floral flavors of Asia become the main ingredient. They will satisfy your sweet tooth without sacrificing the clean sophistication that is their hallmark.
Elizabeth Falkner has been called a “rock star of the pastry world” because her cuttingedge creations have always defied tradition. Fo r g e t t i r e d o l d tiramisu. Elizabeth demolishes and transforms the boring restaurant staple into Tiramisushi—a cocoa roulade sponge cake with marsala mascarpone filling shaped in a sushi roll, with mocha-rum dipping sauce, fruit ribbons and biscotti chopsticks. Elizabeth’s unique cuisine has made her flagship restaurant in San Francisco, Citizen Cake, one of the country’s most soughafter destinations for food that marries the flavor, technique, and mastery of a top chef with innovation and artistic flare. In her long-awaited first cookbook, Demolition Desserts, she showcases the pastry side of her kitchen. From the cookies, brownies, and cupcakes that launched the restaurant in the late 1990s to the elaborate desserts that have made her one of the most dynamic culinary talents of her generation.
Part 1: Recipe and Stencils
Pastillage, pronounced PAHS-tee-AHJ, is a highly versatile sugar-based dough, excellent for decorating and creating showpiece work. The formula below is best to mix by hand. If you use a machine, more air will be incorporated into the pastillage which makes it difficult to cut out small, intricate pieces. It is much easier to work with dough that is tight, has little air and is very fresh. The longer it sits the tougher and more difficult it becomes. This recipe is elastic and great for bending thin smooth pieces.
Publisher’s Note: Ewald Notter is considered a leading expert in modern day confectionery arts and is also well know as a competitor and instructor. Today, Chef Ewald heads the Notter School of Pastry Arts in Orlando, Florida. (www.notterschool.com)
Sugar Recipe 16 g leaf gelatin 132 g water 150 g corn starch 850 g powdered sugar Equipment Scale Bowl Marble Stencils Chef’s Knife X-ACTO Microwave Shifter
1. Scale out 16g of gold leaf gelatin using a digital scale. 2. Cut the gelatin with scissors into small pieces over a liquid measuring pitcher.
10 Pastry & Baking North America
9. Pour the flaky mixture onto a clean marble surface. The dough will be very sticky to start. Use a metal bench scraper to gather the ingredients together and form a dough. 10. Knead the dough into a ball. Cover the pastillage tightly with plastic to prevent the surface from drying. Work with small amounts of dough as you go. 11. Use corn starch instead of powdered sugar to roll out pastillage. Corn starch will keep the surface smoother. Make a beggars purse out of cloth and fill it with corn starch. This will allow you to dust the surface more easily and effectively. Roll out small pieces to ensure the dough doesn’t dry out. Move the dough around while rolling so the pastillage doesn’t stick to the rolling pin or table. After rolling out the pastillage, smooth out the surface with the palm of your hand.
3. Pour 132g of cold water over the leaf gelatin and allow to bloom for five minutes. 4. In a stainless steel bowl, scale out 150g of corn starch and 850g of powdered sugar. 5. Pour the cornstarch and powdered sugar into a fine metal sieve. Sift this mixture over a piece of parchment paper to remove any possible lumps. 6. Place the bloomed gelatin into the microwave to melt the gelatin completely. 7. Create a well in the center of the powdered sugar and corn starch mixture with a spoon and pour the melted gelatin into the well. 8. Mix just to combine the ingredients.
12. Prepare stencil cut outs with sturdy materials like card stock or heavy duty plastic. Shapes can vary. 13. Place stencil cut outs onto the pastillage. Hold the stencil firmly down and begin cutting the shapes using an x-acto blade. 14. Carefully remove each cut out piece of pastillage from the table. 15. Using a porous surface like Styrofoam will allow the pastillage to dry faster because air is trapped between the contact surfaces. Wooden boards are also very good for drying pastillage because they are also porous and allow the humidity to escape.
16. If a texture is desired, roll out the pastillage on a textured surface like plexiglass, wall paper, silicon mats or textured rolling pins. Here, I am using plexi-glass. 17. Free hand cutting is an option for cutting pastillage. Use a sharp chef ’s knife to cut out shapes like triangles or squares. 18. If you want to soften the edges of a cut out, you can use a round cutter to cut out portions from the sides of this triangle.
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If your job is to create beautiful chocolate...
Let another professional take care of the tempering!
19. Roll out a piece of pastillage into a log. Use a round cake board to roll a smooth tube-like rod. It works best if there is no cornstarch is on the table. 20. Shape the rods into swirls and curls onto Styrofoam and allow drying. 21. Use a round cutter as a guide to form round curls. Allow the curls and rods to dry over night for best results.
Pang Kok Keong Executive Pastry Chef Canele Patisserie Chocolaterie
Chocovision makes the best tempering machine! Saves me a lot time with no waste. A pastry chef’s best friend.!
Made in the USA
Next issue Part II… more shapes and assembly!
Looking for Distributors email email@example.com
14 Pastry & Baking North America
THE FINEST CONFECTION SELECTION
Rich, ultra-premium, handmade and exquisitely painted chocolates from Norman Love Confections begins with the world’s finest ingredients—Swiss Grand Cru chocolate and ganaches created with Thai coconuts, Sicilian pistachios or Tahitian vanilla. We are pleased to offer our chocolates, available in more than three dozen tantalizing flavors, to restaurants, hotels, gourmet markets and catering companies nationwide. For information please call, visit our Web site or e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org. 11380 Lindbergh Boulevard, Fort Myers, FL 33913
Whole Wheat Cinnamon Buns
Yield: 8 to 10 buns
227g whole wheat flour 4g salt 170g milk, buttermilk, yogurt, soy milk, or rice milk 1. Mix all of the soaker ingredients together in a bowl for about 1 minute, until all of the flour is hydrated and the ingredients form a ball of dough. 2. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature for 12 to 24 hours.
56.5g honey or agave nectar 56.5g sugar or brown sugar 56.5g unsalted butter, melted, or vegetable oil 113g cinnamon sugar 1. Using a metal pastry scraper, chop the soaker and the biga into 12 smaller pieces each (sprinkle some of the extra flour over the pre-doughs to keep the pieces from sticking back to each other). 2. In a stand mixer, put the pre-dough pieces in the bowl along with the flour and the salt, yeast, honey, and butter. Mix on slow speed with the paddle attachment (preferable) or dough hook for 1 minute to bring the ingredients together into a ball. Switch to the dough hook if need be and mix on mediumlow speed, occasionally scraping down the bowl, for 2 to 3 minutes, until the pre-doughs become cohesive and assimilated into each other. 3. Dust a work surface with flour, then roll the dough in the flour to coat. Knead by hand for 3 to 4 minutes, incorporating only as much extra flour as needed, until the dough feels soft and tacky, but not sticky. Form the dough into a ball and let it rest on the work surface for 5 minutes while you prepare a clean, lightly oiled bowl. 4. Resume kneading the dough for 1 minute to strengthen the gluten and make any final flour or water adjustments. Form the dough into a ball and place it in the prepared bowl, rolling it to coat it with oil. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature for approximately 45 to 60 minutes. 5. When the dough has risen, dust the work surface with about 1 tablespoon of the extra flour and gently transfer the dough to the floured work surface with a plastic bowl scraper (try not to rip or tear the dough). Roll the dough out to a 9-inch square approximately
227g whole wheat flour 1g instant yeast 142g milk, buttermilk, yogurt, soy milk, or rice milk, at room temperature 1 large egg, slightly beaten 1. Mix all of the biga ingredients together in a bowl to form a ball of dough. Using wet hands, knead the dough in the bowl for 2 minutes to be sure all of the ingredients are evenly distributed and the flour is fully hydrated. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes, then knead it again with wet hands for 1 minute. 2. Transfer the dough to a clean bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 3 days. 3. About 2 hours before mixing the final dough, remove the biga from the refrigerator to take off the chill. It will have risen slightly but need not have risen significantly in order to use it in the final dough.
inch thick. Sprinkle the cinnamon sugar over the surface and roll it up into a tight loaf. Slice the dough into 1-inch-thick slices and lay them out, 1 inch apart, on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper or a silicon mat. Mist the top of the buns with pan spray, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and let rise at room temperature for approximately 45 to 60 minutes, until the buns are nearly double in size. 6. Preheat the oven to 400°F (204°C). Place the pan on the middle shelf, lower the temperature to 350°F (177°C), and bake for 15 minutes. Rotate the pan 180 degrees and continue baking for another 10 to 15 minutes. While the buns are baking, make the glaze. 7. Cool the buns for 5 minutes before glazing.
1. 1 cup of sifted confectioners’ sugar into a bowl. Add 2 tablespoons of milk, 1 teaspoon of corn syrup (optional), and 1/2 teaspoon of either vanilla, lemon, orange, or almond extract (all optional). 2. Whisk until smooth. Add more sifted sugar or milk as needed to make a thick but drizzly fondant paste.
401g soaker 417g biga 56.5g whole wheat flour 5g salt 7g instant yeast
Baking Instructor Johnson & Wales University 801 West Trade Street Charlotte, NC 28202 www.peterreinhart.typepad.com
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Whole Wheat Cinnamon Buns
Reprinted from Peter Reinhart’s Whole Grain Breads. Published by Ten Speed Press, www.tenspeed.com. Photography by Ron Manville. 17
Honey and Pine Nut Tart
Yield: One 10” tart (8 servings)
Sweet Tart Crust
21/3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1/3 cup granulated sugar 1/2 tsp kosher salt 1/2 tsp baking powder Freshly grated zest of 1 lemon or orange 3/4 cup (11/2 sticks/6 ounces) unsalted butter, 1 large egg 1 large egg yolk 1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract 1/4 cup heavy cream A few drops ice water, if necessary 1. Place the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and citrus zest in the bowl of a food processor and pulse several times. 2. Add all of the cold, cubed butter to the bowl and pulse to process the mixture until it is sandy and there are no visible lumps of butter. 3. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg, egg yolk, vanilla extract, and heavy cream. 4. Add the wet ingredients to the food processor and pulse 3 or 4 times, or until the dough comes together. If necessary, add some ice water, a few drops at a time, to make the dough come together. 5. Remove the dough from the food processor and work it with your hands to even out any dry and wet spots. Form the dough into a ball, flatten into a disk, wrap in plastic, and chill until firm, 1 to 2 hours, before rolling it out. Assembly Sweet Tart Crust 2/3 cup honey 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1 tsp kosher salt 1 cup (2 sticks/8 ounces) unsalted butter 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 large egg 1 large egg yolk 11/4 cups pine nuts
1. On a floured board, roll the tart dough into an 11-inch circle 1/8 -inch thick. Transfer the dough to a 10-inch tart pan with fluted sides and a removable bottom. 2. Press the dough into the bottom and sides of the pan, then trim it so it is flush with the top of the pan. 3. Chill the tart shell while you make the filling. 4. Preheat the oven to 325°F and position a rack in the center. To make the custard: Place the honey, sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan and stir to combine. Add the butter, place the saucepan over medium-high heat, and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring often. 5. Remove the saucepan from the heat and transfer the mixture to a large mixing bowl; allow it to cool for 20 minutes. Whisk in the heavy cream, followed by the egg and egg yolk. 6. Distribute the pine nuts evenly over the bottom of the tart shell and pour the custard into the shell until it reaches the top of the crust. Bake for 30 to 55 minutes, or until both the crust and the filling have turned light golden brown and the custard is set but still jiggly. 7. Allow the tart to cool completely on a rack before carefully removing the sides of the pan. Serve the tart while still slightly warm, or cool it and serve at room temperature.
Pastry Chef Babbo 110 Waverly Place New York, NY 10011 www.babbonyc.com
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Honey and Pine Nut Tart
Reprinted from Gina DePalma’s DOLCE ITALIANO: Desserts from the Babbo Kitchen Published by W.W. Norton & Co. 19
Organic Cranberry Walnut Bread
.4 kg King Arthur Big O Flour at 68°F .4 kg water at 75°F .1 kg ripe refreshment levain (100% hydration; equal parts flour and water) to incorporate them evenly. The dough should now have gained more body and appear firmer. Take the dough temperature. It should be between 75 and 80°F. Note the time. 6. Place the dough in the lightly oiled bowl, cover, and place the dough in a warm (80-85°F) place for primary fermentation. The dough will now rise for 4 – 51/2 hours. During this time, give two folds to the dough after 2 elapsed hours and again after 3 elapsed hours. After the 31/2 – 51/2 total hours, the dough should be at least 80% larger than its original volume. It can sometimes double in volume; this depends on the fermentative power of the levain and the final dough temperature. An additional fold may be necessary for some dough that lack strength. The baker must exercise judgment. 7. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and divide into 2 pieces of approximately equal size. Lightly round each piece into a ball. Cover the dough and allow it to rest for at least 20 minutes or up to 35 minutes. 8. Shape the balls into tight batards about 22 cm long and place them seam side up on a floured couche or linen for their final proof. Be sure to cover the loaves to prevent crusting. After shaping, turn on a deck oven to 440°F. 9. Cover the loaves well and proof them for approximately 2 hours at 80°F or until risen about 60 percent larger in volume. 10. Carefully transfer the risen loaves to a peel or belt and place them seam down. If using a peel, be sure to flour it lightly. 11. Score the bread using a sharp razor by making a single, straight cut from end to end. 12. Steam the oven and load the loaves, making sure there is enough space so that they do not touch after oven spring has terminated; at least 3 inches should suffice. 13. Bake the loaves for 35 minutes and vent the oven for an additional 5 minutes to set the crust. Due to the fruit in the dough, the bread will take substantial color and be dark in some areas. The venting will prevent the crumb from becoming gummy as the bread is particularly dense. 14. The bread should be cooled for at least 2 hours before slicing.
.7 kg King Arthur Organic Big O Flour (14% protein) at 68°F .1 kg King Arthur Organic Type 65 Flour (12% protein) at 68°F .05 kg Lindley Mills Organic Whole Spelt Flour at 68°F .6 kg water at 65°F .3 kg ripe liquid levain at 68°F .02 kg sea salt .15kg organic walnuts at 68°F .15kg organic cranberries at 68°F 1. Ferment liquid levain for 12 hours at 68°F; the levain should at least double in volume within this time. If the levain does not double in volume, add 1 teaspoon of instant yeast to the final dough to compensate for the poor levain activity. 2. Prepare all ingredients. Lightly oil a bowl to receive the mixed dough. 3. Mix final dough. In a spiral mixer, add the water, flours, .3kg of the ripe levain, and salt to the mixer. Mix on slow speed for 5 minutes. The dough should be very soft and attached to the sides of the mixer. Scrape the bottom of the mixer to insure that no dough has stuck to the bottom of the mixing bowl. 4. Mix on fast speed for 5 minutes. The dough should detach from the sides of the mixing bowl after 3 to 31/2 minutes of mixing and mix for an additional 11/2 - 2 minutes while detached to reach proper (medium) development. The dough should be somewhat smooth, medium wet, and soft. 5. Immediately add the organic walnuts and cranberries to the mixed dough and mix for 45 seconds to 1 minute
Baker Greenlife Grocery 301 Manufacturer's Road Chattanooga, Tennessee www.greenlifegrocery.com
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Organic Cranberry Walnut Bread
Coconut Layer Cake
41/2 oz coconut, desiccated 31/2 oz almond slices 3 oz all purpose flour 8 oz confectioner’s sugar 51/2 oz egg whites 13/4 oz heavy cream 1 egg white 9 oz sugar 1. In mixer with paddle attachment, combine coconut, almond flour, flour, and confectioner sugar. 2. Slowly add first portion (51/2 oz) egg whites until combined. Add heavy cream slowly. 3. Prepare meringue by whisking together 1 egg white and sugar. Dissolve sugar on top of water bath. Whip on mixer at high speed until medium stiff peaks form. 4. Fold together coconut base and meringue. Spread on sheet pan lined with silicone mat. 5. Bake at 325°F for 12-15 minutes or until cake pulls away from the sides of pan. Set aside to cool. 2 oz trimoline 2 tsp cornstarch 1. Reduce passion fruit and pear juices by 20%. 2. Dissolve trimoline into juice. 3. Slurry cornstarch and add to reduction. 4. Continue to simmer stirring constantly until sauce thickens. 5. Chill over ice bath and refrigerate. Assembly 1. Smear plate with passion fruit sauce. 2. Place coconut layer cake shingles on cake, alternating with chocolate decoration. 3. Place almond tuile shard on plate and top with scoop of chocolate chip ice cream. 4. Garnish plate with more tuile and cocoa nibs.
Chocolate Chip Ice Cream
11/2 cups milk 1 cup heavy cream 5 egg yolks 21/2 oz sugar 8 oz 65% chocolate, chopped 1. Heat milk, sugar and heavy cream to 95°F. 2. Temper in egg yolks. 3. Heat to 185°F for 2 minutes. Cool immediately to 39°F. 4. Spin in ice cream machine following manufacturer’s instructions. 5. Fold in chopped chocolate pieces. Freeze.
14 oz coconut puree 7 oz confectioners sugar 9 oz Greek yogurt 1/2 oz gelatin sheets, bloomed 21 oz heavy cream, medium stiff peaks 1. In small bowl, whisk together coconut puree, confectioner sugar and yogurt. 2. Bloom gelatin sheets in water. Strain and melt. Slowly add to yogurt mixture. 3. Whip heavy cream to medium stiff peaks. Fold together with yogurt mixture. Chill to set slightly.
10 oz sugar 1/4 oz apple pectin 7 oz butter 7 oz glucose 7 oz water 1. Combine sugar and pectin. 2. In sauce pan heat butter, glucose and sugars to dissolve. 3. Store chilled in plastic container (overnight). 4. Spread thin layer on silicone mat; sprinkle with toasted almond slices before baking. 5. As tuile cools, form into shape or brake off into shards.
Passion Fruit Sauce
1 cup passion fruit juice 1 cup pear juice
Executive Pastry Chef Peninsula Hotel Chicago 108 East Superior Street Chicago, Illinois 60611 www.chicago.peninsula.com
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Coconut Layer Cake
Steamed Pandan Layer Cake
Makes one 9” round cake (24 servings) 2 tsp canola oil 15.8 oz (45g) chopped, thawed frozen pandan leaves 20 oz (568g) unsweetened coconut milk 117.8 oz (335g) sugar 23.4 oz (79g) tapioca flour 23.4 oz (76g)glutinous rice flour 3 tbsp all purpose flour 2 tsp cornstarch 1/2 tsp salt A drop of pandan extract, optional 1. Prepare a steamer by filling a large round casserole with water to a depth of 3 inches. The casserole should be at least 11 inches in diameter and have a tightly fitting lid. Put a steamer rack or enough crumpled heavy-duty aluminum foil to support the cake pan on the bottom. The rack or foil should be just above the waterline. Set over medium heat and bring to a steady simmer. Grease a 9” round cake pan with the oil and set aside. 2. Put the pandan leaves in a blender with 2 oz of the coconut milk and 2.6 oz water. Blend until the pandan leaves are finely chopped. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth, pressing on the pandan leaves to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the leaves and set the liquid aside. 3. In a medium bowl, combine the remaining 18 oz coconut milk with the sugar and stir until the sugar dissolves; set aside. 4. Mix the three flours, the cornstarch, and the salt together in a large mixing bowl. Add the coconut milk mixture and stir until well blended. Pour half the batter into another mixing bowl. Add the pandan liquid and the extract, if using, to one of the bowls and mix well. 5. Pour 1 cup of the green batter into the cake pan, tilting the pan to form an even layer. Carefully set the cake pan on the steamer rack, making sure that the pan sits as evenly as possible. Wrap a thin kitchen towel around the lid, cover the pot tightly, and steam until the cake layer is firm and set, about 4 minutes. 6. Carefully pour 1 cup of the white cake batter on top of the green batter. Pour the batter in from the side so that it will spread into an even layer naturally. Steam, covered, until the white layer is set, about 10 minutes. Repeat with the remaining batter, alternating colors. 7. When the final layer is set, turn off the heat, uncover the pot, and let the cake cool in the casserole until it is cool enough to touch. 8. Remove the cake pan from the casserole, run a knife around the edge, and cut the cake into little squares. Best served the same day, as it hardens over time.
Chef/Owner P*ONG 150 west 10th New york, NY 10011 www.pichetong.com www.p-ong.com
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Steamed Pandan Layer Cake
Reprinted from THE SWEET SPOT: Asian-Inspired Desserts (William Morrow Cookbooks) 25
Bread Pudding with Irish Whiskey Sauce
Makes a 13”x 9” Baking Pan; Serves 12
pound light, airy French bread, cut into 11/2 ” thick slices 1 cup dark raisins 2 dozen large eggs 11/2 quarts heavy cream 21/2 cups sugar 1 tbsp plus 1 tsp cinnamon 1 tsp ground nutmeg 1/2 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, chopped 1. Preheat oven to 250°F. 2. Arrange half of the bread in a 13”x 9” baking pan and sprinkle with raisins. Arrange the remaining half of bread over top. 3. In a large bowl whisk together eggs, cream, 2 cups sugar, 1 tablespoon cinnamon, and nutmeg until smooth. Pour half of custard over bread and gently press down bread. 4. Let sit until bread soaks up custard, about 15 minutes (depending on bread). 5. Pour remaining half of custard over bread and gently press down bread. 6. In a small bowl combine remaining 1/2 cup sugar and teaspoon cinnamon and sprinkle over bread. Dot bread with butter and bake 11/2 to 2 hours, or until custard is just set in the center.
3. Transfer mixture to a double boiler and cook over just simmering water, stirring gently but constantly with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, until thick, about 12 minutes. 4. Pour sauce through a fine sieve and stir in whiskey. Assembly Serve pudding warm drizzled with whiskey sauce.
1 cup heavy cream 1 cup whole milk 1/2 cup sugar 7 large egg yolks 1/4 cup Irish whiskey 1. In a medium saucepan bring cream and milk to a boil. 2. In a medium bowl whisk together sugar and yolks until combined well and gradually whisk in hot milk mixture.
Executive Chef Mr. B’s Bistro 201 Royal Street New Orleans, LA 70130 www.mrbsbistro.com
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Bread Pudding with Irish Whiskey Sauce
Organization and moving quickly yields dramatic results.
Tools: Chef Rubber Spatula Offset Spatula Marble Slab
Ingredients: White Chocolate Crimson Cocoa Butter
Publisher’s Note: In the world of gourmet chocolate creation, few can match the career and quality of Norman Love. As the former executive pastry chef for The Ritz-Carlton Company, Norman Love understands the importance of quality and presentation and his global brand of artisan chocolates can be found in innumerable retailers, restaurants and hotels around the world. For more information on Chef Norman and his gourmet chocolates, please visit his website (www.normanloveconfections.com) or his retail salon in Fort Myers, Florida.
1. Lightly drizzle a small quantity of red-colored cocoa butter onto the surface of the pure white chocolate. 2. Gently swirl with rubber spatula.
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4. 6. 7. 8.
3. Place marble slab in freezer for one hour. Pour small quantity onto frozen marble slab. 4. Quickly spread with offset spatula into a thin rectangular-shaped layer. 5. Use knife to cut into a rectangular band. 6. Remove excess chocolate and discard. 7. Prepare raspberry mousse timbale. 8. Quickly remove rectangular chocolate from marble slab and quickly form into a cylinder around mousse timbale. 9. Scrunch top. Garnish as desired.
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CERTIFICATE OF EXCELLENCE CERTIFICATE OF EXCELLENCE
Felchlin Edelweiss Felchlin Edelweiss
Felchlin Edelweiss 36% awarded Felchlin Edelweiss 36% awarded The Santé Gold Star The Santé Gold Star
Top honors were given by SANTÉ, The Magazine for Top honors Professionals, to Felchlin Switzerland for Restaurant were given by SANTÉ, The Magazine Restaurant Professionals, Chocolate for its supreme, for Edelweiss 36% White to Felchlin Switzerland for Edelweiss 36% White Chocolate for its supreme, clean, bold and distinctive creamy flavors. clean, bold and distinctive creamy flavors.
For more information visit www.felchlin.com or contact Swiss American Imports, LLC in Miami Phone (800) 444-0676 For more information visit www.felchlin.com or contact Swiss American Imports, LLC in Miami Phone (800) 444-0676
Eyes of the
By Campbell Ross Walker Photography by Dragon and Hungry Eyes
After years of sacrifice and travel in search of pastry enlightenment, Chef Charles Zhao is back in Beijing and looking forward to this summer’s Olympic games.
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Marinated Seasonal Fruits with Vanilla Sabayon
hina has grown rapidly from a Third World country to an economic power that many predict will rival the USA and Japan in coming years. The 2008 Summer Olympics will be China’s grandest premiere yet on the world stage. Clearly, there’s fervent national pride among the Chinese that their country has arrived in the global sports and business arenas. No less important is the hospitality industry and in the run up to this summer’s Olympics, kitchens across China are getting ready for the flood of visitors. With the Beijing hotel market being ground zero for most of the overseas influx, F&B management is putting tremendous pressure on their staff to rise to the occasion and meet the demands of their international guests. Yet, Charles Zhao is handling his appointment as Executive Pastry Chef at The Ritz-Carlton Beijing, Financial Street with aplomb. Finally, after several years in Shanghai and traveling the world in search of pastry enlightenment, Charles has returned home to Beijing. And with the eyes of the world upon China’s capital city, Charles is ready to put his skills front and center and dazzle his guests with distinct flavors and superior craftsmanship. Charles’ self confidence is readily apparent and for good reason: he has devoted his life to pastry. As a teenager, Charles was a good student but he didn’t really know what he wanted to do. Then one day, he found himself in a neighbor’s kitchen playing around with a piping bag filled with frosting. “I immediately appreciated the bag as an implement of the creative process. The technique came easy for me and soon I had piped a nice looking dragon. Very satisfying. From there, it was off to vocational high school where I would study the basics and lay my pastry foundation,” remembers Charles.
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Ritz-Carlton Pastry Team
Chocolate Mousse with Jasmine Mango Jelly
Gianduja Chocolate Log
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After vocational school, like millions of graduates before him, Charles hit the street trying to land his first job. We all can appreciate the anxiety associated with this process. However, think about what it is like in the China with hundreds of candidates vying for each and any open position. Talk about competitive. But Charles Zhao is a competitive guy. He soon heard about a posting for a pastry cook at the China World Hotel and that became his goal. A simple foot in the door was all he was after and when it came time to interview and demonstrate his innate skill and training, the pastry chef offered him the job on the spot. The 1990’s was a remarkable time in China highlighted by extraordinary growth, industrial entrepreneurship and a broadening appreciation of international cuisine. With the world flocking to the likes of Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou, local hotels were pressurized to better serve their international guests. Considering the high percentage of European visitors at the time, modification of the dated pastry and dessert menu at many a Chinese hotel became a priority. “An extraordinary benefit of working at the China World Hotel during that time was the exposure to highly skilled, international pastry consultants. The hotel was always bringing in trainers from France, Germany and Japan. I saw this as an opportunity and I worked with these chefs as much as I could. Considering the difficulty, at the time, in finding pastry magazines and Western culinary books in China, the visiting Chefs were my only exposure to international standards and styles,” Charles points out. With basic English skills gained from intense middle school training, Charles was often able to communicate directly with the trainers. “For me, the chefs served a duel purpose: pastry instructors and English tutors,” say Charles whose English today is near fluent.
Working hard and being extremely goal is exactly who Charles Zhao is and what makes him successful. Soon after arriving at the China World Hotel, Charles’ passion for pastry ignited and within 3 years, he was the head pastry chef at the property. Even with this meteoric rise to the top, Charles was not satisfied with being the hotel’s top professional. He wanted to become China’s best pasty chef. And, in order to achieve this goal, Charles knew he required more international exposure and direct interaction with the world’s best practitioners. The Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie would provide such a venue. “I researched the event and the more I found out, the more I wanted to compete. At first, finding teammates and sponsors was difficult but persistence paid off and in 1997 I was able to Captain China’s first team to the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie,” says Charles. “Many of the participating chefs and spectators thought we were from Japan or Korea but once everyone found out we were Team China, we received a lot of encouragement and support. It was truly an inspiring occasion.” All Charles remembers of the actual competition was the speed at which the event flew by. Next thing he knew, time was up and Team China was being called to present. Needless to say, Team China did not win the 1997 competition, but all the team members felt like champions for being the first team to represent China on an international, pastry stage. An added bonus to the whole experience was an extra day in Paris and Charles and Team China wasted no time and set a hectic agenda. “That was a busy day. We were able to see Ladurée, Fauchon and Lenôtre. Amazing standards. I bought a lot of books and even though I don’t read French, the pictures are remarkable. I couldn’t wait to return to China and start creating,” says Charles.
Spicy Chocolate Pudding with Lavender Ice Cream
Back in Beijing, Charles worked harder than ever and even took gold in a national competition for his plated dessert. Coincidentally, newly arrived pastry chef Eric Perez had encouraged several of his Shanghai Ritz Carlton staff to complete in the same event. Charles remembered Eric from the pervious year’s Coupe du Monde – Eric was part of Team USA – and reintroduced himself. “From the beginning, Eric was a generous and open mentor. Always sharing his insight, technique and pastry experience,” remembers Charles. The following month, Charles used his own vacation time to visit and train with Eric in Shanghai. “Charles Zhao possesses a unique combination of drive, skill and passion that has escalated him to the top of the Chinese pastry scene. What has been wonderful to witness is his growth, not only as a craftsman, but most importantly as a mentor and role model to younger Chinese pastry chefs,” remarks Eric Perez. As is the case with other professions, chefs tend to change jobs frequently. Most often these new postings are driven by financial opportunity and upward mobility. Charles Zhao is a bit different. When it came time for Charles to prepare for the 2003 Coupe du Monde, he faced a daunting obstacle. Since Eric Perez – now Team China manager and coach- and two other team members all lived in Shanghai, Charles was faced with a bi-monthly commute to training sessions. Considering the cost, travel and lack of proper face time with his teammates, Charles, a true captain, put his team and pastry passion first and decided to interview for an opening at the Four Seasons Shanghai. “I met with the Director of Kitchens in the morning and by the early afternoon they offered me the job,” says Charles. However, would Charles’ wife back in Beijing be so excited?
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“Being a pastry chef herself, my wife completely understands my passion and commitment to the team. It was not an ideal situation, but again, it was an incredible learning experience and I am grateful to her for being so understanding and compassionate,” say Charles. The next four years (2002-2006) would prove very rewarding and extremely hectic for Chef Charles: back and forth to Beijing as often as possible, numerous international competitions – taking 9th at the 2003 Coupe du Monde - along with the responsibilities of running the pastry operations at the Fours Seasons Shanghai. For most chefs, such a lifestyle would have been too much, but Charles Zhao is tough. During that time, Charles grew his creative skills along with his organizational and managerial abilities. And, in the eyes of many in the hospitality industry, Charles became a sought after pastry professional. At 36 years of age, Charles is still a young man but as a dedicated husband and father, Chef Charles realized it was time to go home. When the The Ritz-Carlton Beijing, Financial Street position became available, he knew it was where he needed to be. “This is a dream come true. To be the executive pastry chef in one of Beijing’s top hotels with the Olympics fast approaching is exhilarating. The challenge is formidable but we are more than ready and looking forward to the influx of international guests. We plan on accommodating their taste for pastry and have already finalized a menu that includes sugar free, low fat and Mediterranean style desserts,” says Chef Charles proudly. “The best part is that I am back in Beijing with my wife and son and we can all experience this great event together.”
Caraibe Chocolate Gateau
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Caraibe Chocolate Gateau
800g sugar 750g egg white 500g egg yolk 175g ground almond 275g cocoa powder
1. Separately whip up the egg white with sugar and egg yolk. 2. Mix together with ground almond and cocoa powder. 3. Baked at 200°C.
Caraibe Chocolate Mousse
250g sugar 340g cream 15g gelatin 1pc vanilla bean 1000g caraibe chocolate 8pcs egg yolk 40g sugar 1670g whipped cream
1. Caramelize sugar until golden brown, pour the cream and vanilla bean into the sugar cook for 3 minutes at low temperature and pour into chocolate mix well as ganache. 2. Mix ganache, egg yolk mixture and whipping cream together. Assembly Put chocolate mousse with flourless biscuits layer by layer in the stainless steel form, freeze and then cut it into 3cm by 9cm.
World Chocolate Master!
After three days of fierce competition, Naomi Mizuno of Japan stood alone as the 2007 champion of the World Chocolate Masters.
By S1G Photos courtesy of WCM
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Naomi Mizuno’s award winning chocolate showpiece ‘Tengu’
From left: Paul Halliwell, Paco Torreblanca, Pol Deschepper, Onno Bleeker, Camelo Sciampagna, Naomi Mizuno, Yvonnick Le Maux, Philippe Janvier, Patrick De Maeseneire, Beau Netzer and Eric Martinet
he second World Chocolate Masters took place at the first Salon du Chocolat Professionnel held in Paris from October 20 – 22, 2007.
World Chocolate Master 2nd Place 3rd Place Chocolate Pastry Award Chocolate Showpiece Award Pralines Award Chocolate Dessert Award
Twenty of the world’s greatest chocolate craftsmen took part in the international final, which had the theme of “National Myths and Legends”. The road to victory was long, with the competitors first having to win their national selection heats earlier in the year to gain a place in the grand final. Throughout the competition the contestants thoroughly demonstrated the mastery of their art in front of a jury of experts headed by Francisco Torreblanca, the master Spanish chocolatier. The tension increased throughout the three days of the competition as spectators packed the venue and watched, awestruck, from the public galleries at the amazing technical skills and dexterity of the chefs who created delicious works of art. “The World Chocolate Masters is a top level competition for chocolate craftsmen from all over the world. The purpose is to offer these people a forum to showcase their skills with chocolate. Creativity with chocolate is key! In the entire competition, original approaches in the recipes and aspects of all creations were highly appreciated by the jury,” offered Philippe Janvier, Vice President Sales & Marketing Gourmet Division Barry Callebaut Europe.
Yvonnick Le Maux Carmelo Sciampagna Naomi Mizuno
France Italy Japan
Yvonnick Le Maux Carmelo Sciampagna
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Naomi Mizuno was declared the Winner of the World Chocolate Masters 2007, with Yvonnick Le Maux (France) and Carmelo Sciampagna (Italy) taking second and third place. Winners shared a prize package of 100,000 Euros and Chef Naomi was presented a trophy specially created by leading Dutch Designer Rob Verhoeven. Furthermore, Naomi Mizuno received special awards for his chocolate pastry and for his creative chocolate showpiece. Yvonnick Le Maux was awarded for his pralines and Carmelo Sciampagna received an award for his gastronomic chocolate dessert. Without a doubt, the most interesting creation of the whole competition was Naomi’s chocolate showpiece entitled “Tengu”. In Japan, Tengu are a class of supernatural creatures found in folklore, theater, and literature. They are one of the best known yokai (monster-spirits) and are sometimes worshipped as spirits or gods. Although they take their name from a dog-like demon, the Tengu were originally thought to take the forms of birds of prey, and they are traditionally depicted with both human and avian characteristics. The earliest Tengu were pictured with beaks, but this feature has often been humanized as an unnaturally long nose, which today is practically the Tengu's defining characteristic in the popular imagination. As Naomi Mizuno raised his trophy and held his check, it was readily apparent the mild mannered chef was the crowd favorite and even his competitors were happy for him. Here is an interview with Chef Naomi shortly after he arrived back in Japan to a hero’s welcome: P&B NA: First off, congratulations on being crowned World Chocolate Master 2007. How does it feel? NM: Incredible. From the winning moment on the podium and once again when I arrived back to my hometown, it is still hard to believe especially when I see all the happy faces of my supporters, colleagues and friends. P&B NA: Tell us about your World Chocolate Master journey. NM: The competitors were an amazing array of international talent that forced me to be at my best. From the beginning, I followed my plan. What helped a lot was the overall professionalism of the WCM organization that made the competition extremely comfortable and stress free. This allowed me to concentrate and really enjoy the whole experience.
Carmelo Sciampagna’s winning dessert
Yvonnick Le Maux’s winning pralines Chef Morel’s chocolate cake
Canadian Representative Christophe Morel
P&B NA: Were there any moments of incredible pressure? NM: Yes! Especially when I spoke to my wife just before the start of the competition and she reminded me that I was representing Japan. Her last words were “don’t lose”. P&B NA: Tell us about your preparation for the event. NM: During practice, I made the showpiece 10 times. Each time, the showpiece got bigger and more sophisticated. In the past, I’ve seen a tendency for larger, more attention grabbing showpieces but at the last moment, I followed the advice of our jury representative Mr. Oyama and my good friend Kouichi Izumi who took 3rd place in the 2005 WCM. They recommended that I focus on making the showpiece smaller and more delicate, concentrating on the beauty and minimizing the chance of a collapse. For the pralines and dessert, I tried to score evenly by making high-quality finished forms. I didn’t use Japanese specific ingredients but rather ingredients easily obtained anywhere in the world to put forth a more international taste profile. P&B NA: What has been the reaction to your success back home in Japan? NM: All my family, friends and professional colleagues are so happy for me. An added benefit is that my students suddenly changed their attitudes and became more attentive to my lessons. P&B NA: So where next? What are goals in 2008? NM: I am always learning and looking to play my part in increasing the level of Japanese chocolatiers and increase the positioning of chocolate in the world food market.
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USA Representative Vincent Pilon’s chocolate cake
Chef in Focus
David Ramirez is a stickler for consistency. His precise approach to pastry serves him well overseeing the sweets at the Rosen Shingle Creek in Orlando and has also earned him the captaincy on Team USA heading to Lyon in 2009.
By David Martell Photography by S1G
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Chocolate Pecan Nougatine Cake
Chef in Focus
hen I was 8 years old I remember loving Yankee baseball, riding my bike and trying every Saturday night to stay awake through an entire SNL. At the same age, David Ramirez worked 3 paper routes, baked relentlessly on the weekends with his mother and dreamt about one day being a chef. Growing up in Oceanside, New York — South Shore of Long Island- David knew early on he was destined for the kitchen. Although initially open minded to all cuisine, David’s slightly compulsive need for exactitude would steer him toward pastry and baking. At the age of 15, David applied for his first restaurant job at a local trattoria. Starting off as the bus boy, he was soon promoted to prep cook and charged with soups and salad. After the manager scolded him for making the house salads too big, the executive chef stepped in and took David under his wing. But this mentorship and potential path to celebrity executive chefdom was not meant to be as David’s mental predisposition rejected what he perceived as the parameter-less, loosey-goosey world of hot cooking. Dashes of this, pinches of that? Without across the board regimentation, David Ramirez could not fathom how any restaurant would be able to serve the same dish two days in a row? This was very troubling to the impressionable chef-intraining who remembered fondly the degree consciousness, measuring, and weighting he experienced baking with his mother years before. Suddenly, it all made sense. Light bulb flickered – “ah-ah moment” at hand — David immediately applied to his high school’s vocational baking program. The Joseph M. Barry Career and Technical Education Center serves all 56 Nassau County, Long Island school districts. Its
one-and two-year culinary arts courses are given in a 24 oven kitchen classroom that is widely considered the most extensive high school level cooking/baking program on the East Coast. Under the auspices of the New York State Department of Education and their Board of Cooperative Educational Services (“BOCES”) these schools provide much needed focus to those students yearning for practical education. David Ramirez was one of those students and as soon as he enrolled, everything began to fall into place. Now excelling in school, enthusiastic about learning and singularly focused on his chosen path, David craved the real work experience he couldn’t get in the classroom. He heard of an opening at a local bakery a few towns over and after meeting with the owner, David was hired on for the weekend, morning shift. With work starting at 4:00 AM every Saturday, this didn’t leave much time for David and traditional high school weekend socialization. But, for him, it didn’t matter. He preferred the company of the old timers at the bakery and learning the intricacies of frying cannoli shells, boiling bagels and perfecting rainbow cookies. After high school, David enrolled and graduated from the Baking and Pastry program at Johnson & Whales in Rhode Island. Aside from the hassles of written exams, he enjoyed the professional environment at culinary school. He also had the advantage of knowing exactly what he wanted to do. This focus allowed David to take full advantage of the faculty and facilities and provided the resources necessary for him to map out an action plan upon graduation. First order of business, land a pastry cook job in a high end hotel.
Old Fashioned Chocolate Cake
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Considering everything David Ramirez had to offer (great grades, experience, positive disposition) the Lafayette Hotel in Boston was eager for him to start. There, for the first time, David would experience high tea, a traditional culinary hierarchy, 3 shifts and the competitiveness of a faced pace kitchen. A series of hotel jobs followed, with David sticking to his script: learn, broaden, refine and grow. But not only as pastry pro, David was also keen to keep up and expand upon his baking skills which he did by working second and third jobs in nearby bakeries. Volume production was his goal, knowing full well that if he wanted to move up the culinary ladder, he needed to be able to produce large quantities. Eventually, his travels brought him to Florida where the climate and growing demand for well-rounded dessert professionals appeared tailor made for David Ramirez. Not to mention, the golf wasn’t bad either. At 22 years old, David became the pastry chef at the Stouffer Hotel near Sea World in Orlando. As the youngest person in the kitchen, David initially found it difficult to command the full authority of his title. However, with the dexterity of a chef many years his senior and a personality that makes it extremely difficult to dislike him, soon enough, the pastry kitchen at the Stouffer Hotel was following the Ramirez playbook and turning out
showpieces, chocolate amenities, plated desserts and wonderful breads that won them accolades from management and quests. The 1990’s were a time of personal turmoil and reflection for David Ramirez. He left Florida and traveled as a pastry chef consultant throughout the Southeast. Through it all, he never lost focus on his passion and continued to create new desserts and chocolate masterpieces all the while searching for a higher creative forum. After landing the executive pastry chef job at the Royal Pacific Resort at Universal Studios in 2002, David was encouraged to enter a regional pastry contest organized by the Florida Restaurant Association. There, he experienced the adrenaline rush associated with high level gastronomic competition. He didn’t win, but he was hooked. An added bonus to that event was the friendship David struck up with fellow pastry chef and kindred spirit Jim Mullaney from Sea Island, Georgia. Much like David, Jim was an accomplished pastry chef at a world class resort in search of a challenge. They both realized their chemistry and creative methodologies meshed well together and decided to team up for the 2004 Bread and Pastry Team Championship in Atlantic City. Though relatively new to competing, the duo took second behind Ciril Hitz. Not bad.
Chef in Focus
Next up was the Amoretti 2005 National Pastry Team Championship where David and Jim joined forces with Laurent Lhuillier. Along with the coaching of former world champion Laurent Branlard, the trio struck Gold and won the right — along with $50,000 — to represent the United States at the 2006 World Pastry Team Championships. Back in Orlando, David was immersed in the rigors of his day-to-day at the Royal Pacific Resort along with the demanding practice schedule for the World Pastry Team Championships. Having remarried and with a growing family, this was hardly the time to consider a new professional opportunity. But, unlike most, David Ramirez is a great multi-tasker and when the Rosen Shingle Creek came calling he was willing to listen. Considering David lives less than 5 minutes down the road from the property and drove past the hotel everyday during construction, he was familiar with its massive footprint and after his interviews, even more impressed with the team and the owner. Harris Rosen’s story is legendary in Orlando hospitality circles. Arriving in Florida as a planning manager for Disney, Harris and The Mouse had a falling out when a senior executive told him he would never become a “Disney person”. That was enough for Harris who left and bought his first hotel in 1974. As his only staff, Harris had to do everything. Times were tough. It was the height of the 70’s oil crisis and travelers were hard to find. Harris would even stand on the off ramp and try to flag down guests but to no avail. Desperate times called for desperate measures so Harris set out hitch hiking to snowy New England where he knew there were plenty of motor coach operators. Asking for a moment of their time, Harris presented his story
Shot Glass Desserts
and his hotel and allowed the operators to set their own room rates. Many of the motor coach companies admired his gumption and signed on. Soon, the oil crisis ended and vacationers -in buses- started to revisit Orlando. The rest is history. Today, Harris is COO and President of Rosen Hotels & Resorts, which operate seven properties in the Orlando destination market. To say Mr. Rosen is “hands on” is an understatement and with the 1,500 room, Four-Diamond award winning Rosen Shingle Creek as his crowing achievement, he knew the property
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Chef in Focus
Key Lime Tart
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needed the perfect pastry chef: one who could handle the resort’s huge volume as well as provide flair in the form of special order birthday cakes and spectacular sugar and chocolate showpieces. Once Harris experienced David Ramirez (his work and personality) he knew he found his chef. After placing third at the World Pastry Team Championships behind France and Japan, David Ramirez officially joined the Rosen Shingle Creek and settled into all the challenges of helming the pastry operation at Orlando’s newest and largest hotel. He was growing as a chef, artisan and a leader and this development did not go unnoticed. When it came time to interview pastry chefs for the Coupe du Monde Team USA 2009, David was at the top of the list. Not only did he ace the interview, David Ramirez was named 2009 Team Captain. “I was very happy when David was chosen to be Team Captain. There is so much to be said about him. He impressed everyone immediately by his attitude and general disposition. But beneath his good-natured personality lies determination and commitment to his profession. David’s focus and skill will be crucial to the team’s success. He has the ability to lead the team through the challenges of the upcoming year as they prepare for the competition in January, 2009,” says En-Ming Hsu, Nevada based pastry chef, consultant and Captain on the gold medal winning Coupe du Monde Team USA 2001. In 2009, David will be joined by team members Roy Pell of The Phoenician Scottsdale, Remy Funfrock of The Broadmoor Colorado Springs and long time friend and collaborator Jim Mullaney. Pastry & Baking North America sat down with David soon after the team was announced and what follows are the highlights of our interview: P&B NA: Wow, not only did you make the Coupe du Monde Team USA 2009, you were named Team Captain. How does it feel? DR: Exciting. The highlight of my career and I am so proud to represent the United States in Lyon. P&B NA: How do you like your chances in 2009? DR: Like anything else, as long as we put in the time, effort and map out a game plan, anything can happen on any given day. We expect to be very competitive and our goal is to win.
Key Lime Brulee with Graham Cracker Breton Bottom
Chef in Focus
P&B NA: What do you like best about competing? Certainly not the practice sessions! DR: Practice is taxing, often frustrating, but a necessary element if you expect to do well. For me, I love the actual atmosphere of the competition. I had a chance to travel to Lyon for the 2007 Coupe du Monde and it was an eye opening experience. The lights, the pumping music, huge crowds and incredible intensity. I just had to be a part of it. P&B NA: Still being relatively new at the Rosen Shingle Creek, how did management react when you told them you were interested in pursuing the Coupe du Monde? DR: Absolutely supportive. Rosen Hotels & Resorts is 100% behind me and Team USA. It’s a great feeling and I couldn’t be more appreciative. P&B NA: From what we’ve heard, it sounds like being a part of the Rosen Hotels & Resorts family is a good gig? DR: I’ve never worked for/with a better group of people. It sounds corny, but the family atmosphere permeates every facet of working here. Put it this way, when the owner is willing to pay the college tuition for all his employee’s children, then you know you are working at a special place. P&B NA: What are the challenges you face with such a large property? DR: Working here keeps you on your toes. One week we will be slammed by a Republican Presidential Debate and the next have to create showpieces for Shaq’s mom and her annual charity event. I’ve learned to expect everything and anything but as long as you have a team that is willing to work as hard as you do, being prepared and keeping ahead is very manageable. P&B NA: Speaking of your team, what do you look for when hiring? DR: Talent is important, but not the only quality I look for. Personality and passion is right up there. I’ve been doing this
long enough to quickly ascertain whether an individual is just looking for a job or if they truly want to learn and become part of group. Without a cohesive team, production on this large is difficult. I’ve been very selective in bringing people in who are driven and embrace an “all for one” attitude. P&B NA: What was it about hot cooking that didn’t appeal to you? DR: Something just didn’t click. I don’t want to sound hyper compulsive or critical but I guess I require a more defined
Shingle Creek Pastry Team (from left): Alejandra Rodriguez, Marcia Fundora, Sous Chef Ray Lawson, David Ramirez, Gabriel Roca, Jill Nastasi, Candice Wells-Walker, Maritza Coriano-Lopez and Daniel Pastore
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Petit Pastry Tray
Chef in Focus
Key Lime Tart
Yield: 12 large tarts
Almond Sweet Dough
384g butter 6g salt 288g powdered sugar 112g almond flour 160g eggs 752g all purpose flour
1. Cream butter sugar and salt. 2. Add flours and eggs. Scrape bowl and continue mixing. 3. Roll out dough to 1/16” thickness and place in appropriate tart mold and pre bake to light color. 4. Keep tarts for later use with key lime mixture.
Key Lime Filling
5000g sweetened condensed milk 1000g egg yolks 1100g key lime juice (Nellie’s key lime juice)
methodology. I wanted to know that the ciabatta I make today will be the same tomorrow and the next day. In pastry and baking, consistency is very achievable. I didn’t see that initially in savory cooking. I saw a lot more latitude that didn’t appeal to me. P&B NA: Early on in your career, you moonlighted often to gain “volume” experience. Why? DR: For two reasons. Firstly, after culinary school, I signed on as a pastry cook with the goal of someday becoming a pastry chef. However, all through high school I was baker and didn’t want to lose those skills. Second, I realized that if I ever wanted to land a big time hotel job, I needed to understand large scale production. By working in wholesale bakeries, you see that every night. It was the perfect environment for me. P&B NA: Where do you see yourself in 10 years? Have you ever thought about opening your own shop or wholesale business? DR: I’m a pastry chef who also loves to bake. I love spending time with my family and also enjoy contributing to continued education in the pastry field. I have no interest in becoming an accountant, negotiator, salesmen or pr agent – all necessary elements in running your own business. Basically, I enjoy being part of a large team and interacting with the other departments with the common goal of making this property the best it can be. In 10 years, I hope to be doing exactly what I am doing today; promoting the hotel and reaching new levels of pastry. P&B NA: What advice do you have for those just starting out as a dessert professional or thinking about a culinary career? DR: Keep track of everyone from school and previous jobs. Collect and maintain a network of contacts. One of the great aspects of the culinary field is the camaraderie and lifetime friends you’ll make. Today, with technology, keeping up with everyone is easy and can certainly pay dividends when you are looking for work, answers to questions or general feedback.
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1. 2. 3. 4.
Mix yolks and sweetened condensed milk with wire whip. Add lime juice. Pour into par baked tart shell. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes at 350°F.
Chocolate Sabayon Mousse Crunch
Flourless Chocolate Cake
Yield: 1 sheet pan
400g egg yolks 100g sugar 300g egg whites 100g sugar 180g butter 180g chocolate 55% 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Melt chocolate and butter, mix together. Whip egg yolks and sugar to ribbon stage. Whip egg whites and sugar to soft peaks. Fold chocolate mixture into whipped yolks. Fold egg whites into chocolate egg yolk mixture. Pour mixture into full sheet pan. Bake at 375°F for 12-14 minutes.
Yield: 1 sheet pan
1175g praline paste (Pralinosa) 470g milk chocolate 49% 705g feuilletine
1. 2. 3. 4.
Melt nut paste. Melt chocolate. Add melted chocolate and paste to the feuilletine. Spread mixture onto silicone baking mat atop sheet pan. Place baked flourless cake on top of praline feuilletine mixture.
Yield: one sheet pan
426g melted milk chocolate 49% 29g gelatin 341g Marsala wine 277g sugar 437g whole eggs 1195g heavy cream
1. Bloom gelatin. 2. Melt chocolate. 3. Bring Marsala wine and sugar to a boil: make sure sugar is completely melted. 4. While whipping eggs, slowly pour boiling Marsala mixture down side of mixing bowl. 5. Fold in melted chocolate. 6. Melt gelatin and add to mixture. Cool mixture down in ice bath. 7. Whip heavy cream to soft peaks and fold into mixture. 8. Pour this mixture onto the flourless crunch sheet pan already set up.
Yield: 6 qts.
540g water 108g gelatin (bloom in 450g cold water) 1950g heavy cream 2880g sugar 960g cocoa powder
1. Combine water, sugar, and heavy cream and cook mixture 220ºF and remove from stove. 2. Add cocoa powder and gelatin to hot mixture and blend with hand emulsion blender. 3. When mixture reaches 100ºF mix again with hand emulsion blender. 4. Begin to glaze pre cut sabayon pieces on glazing rack. 5. Reserve the remaining glaze for later use.
25g gelatin 40g cold water 170g Marsala wine 340g Sugar 280g Egg yolks 1500g Heavy cream
1. Bloom gelatin. 2. Bring Marsala wine and sugar to a boil. 3. Start whipping eggs and slowly pour boiling Marsala mixture down side of bowl. 4. Melt gelatin and add to Sabayon, cool mixture ice water bath. 5. Whip heavy cream and fold into mixture. 6. Reserve mixture for later and pipe on top of glazed pieces.
XANTHAN – Part 1
Various compounds called Gums have recently become increasingly popular in modern cuisine. Gums are derived from plants and are generally complex carbohydrates made of different sugar molecules. They are used as thickeners, emulsifiers and sometime as gelling agents. In the health food industry, they are used as a fat substitute by providing the "mouth feel" of fat, but without the calories. Typically sauces and cream type preparations are thickened with cornstarch or flour through a process called gelatinization whereby the starch and liquid are heated to the boiling point and cooked for a certain amount of time in order for the starch granules to swell and thicken the liquid. The disadvantage of this process is that typically larger amount of thickener must be added, which affects the final taste of the product. The liquid must also be boiled which increases the loss of volatile aromas. Conversely, unlike starches minute amounts of gums are required due to their very high viscosity / thickening properties resulting in a ‘clean’ preparation with its original distinct flavours left unaltered by the flavour, texture and mouth feel of added starch.
Publisher’s Note: Dominique and Cindy Duby are the chefs and owners of DC DUBY Wild Sweets®, a critically acclaimed chocolate atelier and virtual boutique, which has emerged as one of North America’s finest artisan chocolatiers. The couple also owns DC DUBY Hospitality Services Inc., a Vancouver-based international firm offering culinary training and consulting services to hotels and catering companies worldwide, as well as culinary creative and marketing services such as product development, food styling, and photography. For more information, visit www.dcduby.com
FLOATING FRUIT SOUP & MALTO CRUNCH
120 g Maltodextrin* 30 g Icing sugar 60 g Pistachio, roasted 3 Egg Whites 45 g Vanilla Oil *This recipe is tested with MALTO Elements by DC DUBY, other maltodextrin may be substituted but results may differ.
1. 3. 2.
In a food processor, combine the MALTO, icing sugar, pistachio and blend until the pistachios are finely ground. Transfer mixture into a bowl, add remaining ingredients and mix until well combined with a spatula. Transfer mixture back into the food processor and mix briefly until the mixture is smooth and homogenous. Spread the mixture on a silicon mat [for best results use a template], and bake in a microwave oven at the lowest heat setting for approximately 3 to 5 minutes or until crisp.
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Floating Fruit ‘Soup’
500 mL Apple or other clear fruit juice 1.25 mL Xanthan* 15 mL Honey or to taste Zest of 1 lemon Lemon Verbena, 2-3 leaves Amaretto, to taste *This recipe is tested with XAGUM Elements by DC DUBY, other xanthan may be substituted but results may differ. Place the apple juice in a tall and narrow container. Add the XAGUM and blend with an immersion blender until all combined. Add the remaining ingredients and let the mixture sit and infuse in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or until it becomes 'clear' again. Strain and discard the solids. When ready to serve, pour some fruit 'soup' in a vessel of your choice and add pieces of fresh fruits so that they remain in 'suspension'. Serve at once with a few pieces of Malto Crunch.
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South Koreans are consuming greater quantities of cheese as foods like pizza, cheeseburgers and sandwiches become more popular among the younger generation. Over the past 5 years, imports of cheese have grown 68% in Korea and this trend is expected to continue for the foreseeable future. Thus, local pastry chefs and bakers have to adapt to this growing demand and offer a wider variety of cheese products.
63g (2 ounces) American cheese 70g (1/4 cup) unsalted butter 80ml heavy cream 115ml milk 50g (1.7 ounces) all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon cornstarch 5 egg yolks 1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract 5 egg whites 95g (3.3 ounces) sugar
one 7” (18cm) vanilla génoise
Publisher’s Note: Successful entrepreneur, award winning author, instructor, international representative and current President of the Korean Bakers Association, Chef Kim Young Mo is an institution. As a trailblazing visionary in the pastry and baking fusion movement, Chef Kim marries his classical European training with his appreciation for Asian ingredients and tastes. Photos and text courtesy of Dream Character, Inc.
Before you begin: 1. Use thick baking paper (or triple the parchment paper) and cut to the correct shape around the inside of the cake pan and place it in. Make sure that the paper is twice as high as the pan.
2. Sponge. Make the vanilla génoise one day before and keep it airtight in the freezer. Take it out of the freezer about 1 hour before use. Then, slice the génoise at 1/2” thick and place the sponge in a lined pan. 3. Preheat the oven to 335˚F/170˚C. 4. Mix and sift flour and cornstarch once and set aside in a bowl. 5. Boil enough water to use for baking at Step 7 (amount of water will vary depending on the size of the baking pan used).
5. In a separate bowl, make a meringue using the egg whites and sugar. This soufflé needs a stiff meringue. Add 1/4 of the meringue to the batter first and mix in using a rubber spatula. Then, add the rest of the meringue half at a time and mix. 6. Place the prepared cake pan inside the large baking pan. Pour the batter into the cake pan (fill to the top of the pan, not the top of the baking paper).
Steps: 1. Filling. Add cheese, unsalted butter, heavy cream, and milk in a pot and boil at high heat. Keep whisking to melt and mix all the ingredients together. 2. Turn the heat down to medium. Add sifted flour and cornstarch and keep whisking. 3. The picture demonstrates how the batter changes its thickness as you cook over the heat. When the batter becomes thick and creamy, transfer it to a bowl. 4. Add half of the whisked egg yolks at a time and keep whisking. Add vanilla extract and mix in.
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7. Bake. Pour boiling water around the cake pan up to about 1/2” high and put in the oven right away. Bake at 335˚F/170˚C for 90 minutes. 8. After the initial baking time is finished, increase the oven temperature to 390˚F/200˚C and bake an additional 3-4 minutes to get the light brown color on top of the soufflé. Check the oven a few times after you increase the oven temperature to see the color because the time may vary. Remove the cake pan from the water but leave
the soufflé in the cake pan while cooling on a cooling rack. After it cools down completely, remove the soufflé from the cake pan and place it on a plate. Brush the nappage over the top, and it is ready to be served!
*Recipe from A Collection of Fine Baking (ISBN: 0976554305) by Young Mo Kim Winner of Gourmand Intl. Cookbook Award 2005 Best Dessert Book in the World.
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The only magazine in North America specifically published for dessert professionals. Each issue will provide:
Industry news, current events, competition results. Recipes, demonstrations and the latest techniques. Step by step instruction from our world-renowned panel of Guest Contributors. Truly regional coverage of hard working professionals who share their experiences, stories and advice. Complimentary online site for recipe archives and educational videos.
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