restaurantReview

Antico Pizza Napoletana

An Authentic Slice of the Old Country
by Muriel Vega hen walking into Antico, the first thing you notice isnt the first dates. Close to Georgia Tech, the mood stays casual as students mingle seductive aroma of pizzas baking in the oven: Its the atmo- and eat in between papers. The restaurant isnt very conducive to conversasphere. The dcor is simple and rustic, the speakers blast the tion, with Italian music played at bombastic levels, but that just adds to the poignant tenor of Andrea Bocelli, and the counters and communal tables overall experience. If youre not in the mood for pizza, try a Calzone Napoletana with marievoke the interior of a small, hidden restaurant in Naples, Italy, not Atlanta. That feeling of being transported to another country is intentional. Ev- nara sauce. One of three calzoni, the Gigiotto is a savory combination of erything at Antico is imported from the old country: the three wood-burn- sausage, bufala mozzarella and broccoli. Every bite contains a variety of texing ovens, the delicious bufala mozzarella, the San Marzano tomatoes and the flour for the crispy crust. The restaurant is the vision of Giovanni Di Palma, a New York transplant with roots in Naples. Di Palma realized his dream of bringing Napoletana pizza to the U.S. after a stint in New York and training with the Maestros of Italy in Naples and Rome. Antico was a critical darling from the moment its doors opened, and as word of mouth has grown, so have the lines outside the door. And with just cause: Small details like the restaurants website being registered in Italy (note the .it instead of the typical .com address) and the freshness of the ingredients give diners a hint as to how passionate Di Palma is about his craft. After ordering your pizza at the counter, you can continue to the back and watch the cooks as they twirl the dough in the air and sprinkle the ingredients. The seating arrangement is uniquestanding-room-only tables mixed with big, communal benches. A back table showcases fresh condiments such as olive oil, freshly chopped garlic, oregano, spicy red peppers, and grated Parmesan cheese. Once you receive your pizza, eat it quickly, as the crust will get soggy. The pizzas take about 60 seconds to bakethe crust burns slightly before the cooks move it to the top of the stone cavern to melt the cheese. The dough is made fresh ABOVE: Antico bakes its pies in wood-burning ovens imported from Italy. daily, and the restaurant closes when it runs out, a great way to maintain the LEFT: The Margherita. quality of the food. Antico doesnt have a liquor license, so the restaurant is strictly BYOB tures, each one different from the nextand thanks to the accompanying Bring Your Own Beer. Or wine, if you prefer. Feel free to pair your favorite marinara sauce, a mouthwatering delight. After feasting on a hot slice, follow your sweet tooth to one of the homevintage with a slice of the Margherita, a simple mix of San Marzano tomatoes, bufala mozzarella, basil and garlic, served hot from one of the 1,000- made cannolis, prepared fresh daily. With a flaky crust and creamy fillings like Nutella and toppings like peanuts or degree ovens. The DeTAILS hazelnut, one bite will make you forget Other appetizing options include the laabout your long week. sagna pizza, weighted down with ricotta, Ro- Hours: Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Atmosphere: Authentic, one-of-a-kind pies in Reservations: No a loud setting If your dream is to walk the streets mano and meatballs for a flavorful twist on Phone: 404-724-2333 Recommendations: Margherita pizza of Naples experiencing authentic pizza, a comfort-food classic, and the San Gennaro, Parking: Small lot across the street with a Nutella cannoli Location: 1093 Hemphill Ave., then Antico is the next best thing. Give which packs a sweet and spicy punch with Attire: Casual Atlanta, Ga., 30318 in to the illusion and enjoy a savory slice red peppers and cippolini onions. Web: www.anticopizza.it of Italy. N Antico is family-friendly, but also great for 32 | Newcomer Magazine | www.newcomeratlanta.com

PhotoS: Sara hannah Photography