Conte ts
storage solutions

Dovetailed Tool Tote
With its unique locking drawer system, this toof tote solves the problem of keeping your hand tools organized yet portable.

dream shop project

All-New Lathe Stand



Strong and sturdy, the design of this stand wif! accommodate any midi-lathe and its extension. Plus, it's built with low-cost materials and simple joinery, and features versatile storage options.

hands-on technique

Perfect Mortises

page 38

Thin Pieces weekend project

Safe & Accurate


A drifl press is the perfect solution for creating smooth, thin stock for your next project.

Quick & Easy Sharpening Tray
Keep your waterstones secure during use and contain the mess with this unique tray


best~built jigs & fixtures

Our Best Bench Vise Ever
This shop-built, benchtop vise is the best way to solve the problem of securely holding oddshaped workpieces at a comfortable height


router workshop




Creating Thin Stock

page 24

3 Can't-Miss Router Table Add-Ons
Great results at the router table are easy using any of these simple fence designs. jigs & accessories


High-Tech Tools for Woodworking Shop Short Cuts


10 26

Work smarter and faster in the shop with a set of handy smeripbone applications.

Check out our shop-tested tips and techniques for solving your woodworking problems,

hands-on technique

Perfect Mortises in Half the Time ----Shop Project Materials


These simple tips and tricks are all it takes to get the most from a mortising machine.

page 42
ShopN otes No. 120



or me, the phone, computer, and teletools. I use them it's designing a

vision are important -- whether

all in one form or another to improve my


project, researching and learning about techniques, or simply ordering the materials and supplies for my next project. But once I enter my workshop, they can be a distraction. So I choose to leave them all behind. Well, after reading the article on smartphone applications (page 10), it looks like I'll be making at least one exception to my rule and keeping my phone with me. The article features a number applications woodworking of free and low-cost you can use to improve your and make better use of valuknowledge right

All-New Lathe Stand

page 18

able shop time. It's a quick and easy way to put a lot of woodworking at your fingertips .

in the shop

Classic Tools Earn Their Keep
Braces and hand drills might seem old school, but new accessories tum them into go-to tools,

materials & hardware


Industrial-Grade Extrusions
This extruded aluminum product is a sure way to make better; more accurate jigs and fixtures,

This symbol lets you know there's more information available online at

setting up shop

One Stop Sanding - Here's How
When it comes right down to it, there's one sander you can rely on for all your needs,


mastering the table saw

Hidden Joinery Technique
This modified version of a tongue and dado joint gives rock-solid results,

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Cutting Edge Tools ------------------------------- 48
Learn all about the new features and capabilities of these upgraded utility knives.

Q&A ___________________________
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Router Table Extension
Like many woodworkers, the size of my shop forces me to keep the footprint of my stationary tools a~ small as possible. So I built a modest-size router table that handles most of my needs. But when it comes to working on larger projects, like tabletops or cabinet doors, the small top doesn't have the surface area necessary to support the workpieces. Since building a bigger table wasn't an option, my solution was to attach an extension. The photo above shows how the extension table slides out to support large workpieces just by loosening a couple of knobs on the support arms. But the best part is, when retracted it only adds a few inches to the footprint of my router table. You can see how I made it in the drawing below. It starts with a pair of hardwood extensions rails mounted to the existing router table. I installed a piece of T-track in each rail. Amating pair of support arms comes next, each with a wide groove to fit over the rail. When you cut this groove, it's best to take light cuts to sneak up on a sliding fit with the rails. Flange bolts running from the T-track through the support arms and knobs make the narrow top easily adjustable. The auxiliary top also has T-track for accessories. After the top is screwed to the support arms, cover it with laminate.


Richard Laskowski Rockwood, Michigan


ALL T-TRACK IS 3/1>"" %.. ALL ; FLANGE 60LTS AND KNOf3.S ARE \1,,"·20

#6,,3/,," Fh WOOD5CREW



Issue 120

Nov.lOec. 2011
PUBLISHER Donald B. Peschke

EDITOR Bryan Nelson MANAGING EDITOR Vincent Ancona SENIOR EDITORS Phil Huber, Randall A. Maxey ASSISTANT EDITOR James Bruton CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Ted Ralfe, Dennis Perkins, Carol Beronich EDITORIAL INTERN Abby Wolner EXECUTIVE ART DIRECTOR Todd Lambirth ART DIREOOR Cary Christensen SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Jamie Downing SENIOR ILLUSTRATORS Dirk Vel Steeg, Peter J. Larson CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS David Kreyling, Harlan V. Clark, David Kallemyn GRAPHIC DESIGNER. Shelley Cronin GRAPH IC DESIGN INTERN Becky Kralicek CREATIVE DIRECTOR Ted Kralicek SENIOR PROJECT DESIGNERS Ken Munkel, Chris Fitch, James K Downing PROJEO DESIGNER/BUILDER Kent Welsh,

Crosscut Sled for Small Parts
Many of my woodworking projects require small parts. The challenge there is cutting the parts accurately and safely. I designed the crosscut sled shown in the photo above to be an easy solution to the problem. The thing that separates this from other crosscut sleds is the addition of a piece of 'l-track in the base. The T-track holds a combination stop NOTE: CLAMP ASSEMBLY IS KREG NO. KMS7511 ( (SPRING NOT INCLUDED) block and hold-down. The stop block guarantees the parts are cut identically and the hold-down prevents them from moving. I like the sled so much I've even made a couple others with angled fences. These allow me to cut small mitered parts for segmented turnings.

Roger Tumbleson Lake Havasu City, Arizona

John Doyle


Rebecca Cunningham Johnson

IMAGE SPECIALIST Allan Ruhnke Mark Hayes, Nate Gruca


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Band Saw Auxiliary Tables & Fence Whether resawing wide stock or making conventional rip cuts. ' HOLE WITH %"x lY2"-DEEP COUNTERBORE TO ATTACH RAILS TO SAW TABLE USING V4"-20 x 3" BOLT V4"-20 Fh THROUGH KNOE3 FRONT VIEW a. both equipped with T-track installed in a groove. It starts with the guide rails. you need a fence that can be adjusted to compensate for blade drift (the tendency of a blade to go off of the layout line). In addition.. the tall fence is adjustable and makes it easy to match the drift angle of any saw blade. You'll need a matched pair. 20") '/. 120 6 . I used knobs and flange bolts to tie the base to the rails. GUIDE RAIL (1'12" x 3 '12" .) (31/:!" x 32"· '%" Ply. On top of that. move the sliding bars so the tape is at zero at both ends of the cut (inset photo). To take advantage of the blade drift adjustment feature. -+j FENC~ BA6~ Z2 rr=--2'12 both the front and rear edges of the table effectively double the surface area.. By simply maintaining the same measure on both tapes you can set the fence for a straight cut and not worry about drift. The sturdy fence attaches to a base and a series of supports./ Ian Ross Smith Falls. The fence system shown in the photo above takes care of both issues. Second. But there are a couple of shortcomings. First. With the MDF establishing the angle. Platforms mounted to FENCE BASE SIDE VIEW (f" x 32" ."14" Ply. The drawings at left show you the details of how to build a system for your saw. draw a line on a piece of MDF and cut on the line to determine the drift angle of the blade. the small table on most band saws just doesn't provide much infeed or outfeed support.24") ADHESIVEE3ACKED MEASURING TAPE #8 x 1'4" Fh WOODSCREW SLIDING RAIL (3/a" x ¥2" . Ontario ShopNotes No.) FENCE . -. the band saw is a great tool. a second groove houses a sliding bar with a tape measure attached to provide a reference when setting a drift angle.

But what really makes this jig stand out is the simple addition of a sheet of graph paper on the bed of the jig. ". shopmade grip shown in the photo at left makes opening the bottle a snap.Square Assembly Jig Clamping up frames and small boxes can be a chore. But trying to keep everything square while doing it adds to the difficulty. The graph paper allows you to check the squareness of the assembly on all four sides. Fortunately. I drilled a through hole for the cap and a counterbore to catch the lip of the cap (drawing at left). New York made a convenient 45° and 90° setup block. he embedded a rare-earth magnet to keep it close at hand.:"ashington Glue Bottle Grip I have a beef with most glue bottles. ShopN otes.2" plywood. Bill Wells Olympia. f Victor Kurowski Oro 7 . • • Michael Silane of Pelham. keeps one comer square while you add the clamps. the cap will stick shut. An assembly jig. and secure the cap back in place. To install the grip. Just holding things together while tightening the clamps is tough enough. plastic laminate. Arizona Ted Baca of Greeley. I finally came up with an easier answer to opening a sticky cap. there's an easy answer to the problem. I covered the paper with a clear. Colorado recycles his used disposable foam brushes by removing the foam and using the exposed plastic core as a stirring stick. The simple. Then. simply remove the cap. After only a couple of uses. To prevent glue from sticking to the jig. install the grip over the glue spout. like the one shown in the photo at right. I made the grip from 1.

Steve. You can see what I mean in the . 120 . I use the notched edge of the fence for profiling the edge of a workpiece. and most surprisingly. he was routing perfect profiles. Clearance Notch. a scrap of hardwood for a fence. And it only takes a few minutes to make them ready for use on your router table. They're all made from scraps of hardwood or plywood you're likely to find lying around your shop. I came to realize that his "back-to-basics" approach to using the router table deserved some further consideration. working at his router table. There was no fancy fence with a microadjuster. no-cost fences that rival their expensive counterparts. So what you'll find here are three simple.. TWO~SIDED FENCE The first fence 1 want to talk about is nothing but a straightedged board. 8 ShopNotes No. What struck me as odd was the simplicity of his setup: a basic table. In spite of its simplicity. but one side is notched with a dado blade or Forstner bit to provide clearance for the router bit.I~jJP Sometimes simple solutions can yield quO accurate results without all the fuss . • I walked into our shop one day and noticed one of our craftsmen. You can see this in the two left photos. Two-Sided. a Porter-Cable 690 router. Use the straight edge for dadoes and grooves (right). Both edges are jointed straight. After ribbing Steve about his setup. A small notch provides clearance for the bit for edge profiles (left).

It starts by creating a clearance notch for the bearing of the bit. Just clamp the fence to the router table.ifp(ofHes: > 1 Initial Alignment. With the router on. You can do this by making several passes over a saw blade or use a dado blade. Start by TALL FENCE The next fence to show you is the one you see in the main photo and the photo at right.lower left photo on the opposite page. Again. edg. The rabbet provides clearance for the wide edging as it passes across the flush-trim bit. This prevents the bearing from binding while the bit's spinning. Making this fence just requires a few simple steps. Custom-Fit Notch. _Perfect Profiles. The notch allows you to align the bearing with the face of the fence. the notch in the fence allows you to partially bury the bit to size the width of the rabbet. Straight. turn on the router and slowly raise the bit to the desired height (center photo below). ZERO-CLEARANCE FENCE When it comes to routing fancy edge profiles.larantees . ShopN otes. wide rabbet along the bottom edge and a clearance notch for the bit It's joined to a simple base that serves another purpose I'll talk about in a minute. _. Finally. Flip for Rabbeting. Trimming Edging. To prevent chipout when routing an edge. zero-clearance ope_niog gl. slowly raise the bit to the desired height. I make a zero-clearance fence (photos below). As you can see. A . I size the notch just slightly larger than the diameter of the bit This provides the maximum support for the edge of the workpiece as you're routing. chipout can occur if the wood fibers aren't fully supported. i Final Height. The beauty of this fence is that it can be flipped over for another use. there are no gaps between the cutting edges of the bit and the 9 . The straight edge can be used for routing grooves and dadoes.chipot:Jt-free. It has a tall face with a shallow. The key is to size the notch just slightly wider and deeper than the diameter of the bearing. The edge of the fence should align with the bearing. As you can see. This means that the fence is always backing up the wood fibers as they are being sheared at the front edge of the workpiece. opposite page). 4. positioning it away from the bit to properly locate the dado or groove in the workpiece (lower right photo. resulting in a smooth edge. I use this setup for routing rabbets. Clamp the fence with the edge of the bearing aligned with the face. You can see what I mean in clamping the fence to the table and raising the bit just enough to expose the bearing (lower left photo). the right photo. The next steps form the zeroclearance opening. the last thing you want is chipout. getting great results at the router table may just mean raiding the scrap pile to create simple fences. This tall fence setup is perfect for trimming the edging on plywood panels. As the bit rotates and exits the workpiece. .

BOARD FEET & SHOP MATH Calculating how much wood you're going to need and how much it will cost can sometimes determine the species of wood you'll end up using for a project. And if you enter the price per board foot. You can download them to your tablet device or phone and be using them within a few minutes. Len: (HA<5et Results Waste: B n. it's no surprise that there are a variety of software applications ("apps") designed for woodworking. Con Frac B"C a Level . especially fractions. All of these apps have proven handy in the shop. 120 . or at the drawing board while designing a project. they're worth a look. It only costs $0.. Some cost a few bucks but others are free. at the lumberyard. • In this digital age of smartphones and tablets.971 =_. it will give you a total cost. It not only lets you perform calculations using fractions. It automatically calculates the total board feet. as well.. it will also convert to and from the metric system. I've rounded up a few of the ones I like for my Apple iPhone.44 ) I Total BF: [ Cost [ t (S) ••• Main Cal 1. taking into account any waste if you choose to enter it.99 and will prove its worth over and over. 10 ShopNotes No.5 Your smartphone will find lots of uses in the shop with these practical software applications.. Determining the cost of a project or working with fractions gets a lot easier with these apps. Both are welcome additions to my shop arsenal. check out the Shop Math app (right image). but there are apps available for other platforms (like Android) as well.. In either case. Easy Calculations. For shop calculations.71I(BF) 5.9. The free Board Feet app (left image) helps you figure out how much lumber to purchase and how many board feet you're going to get from each board.

".lnu~BI_ Juglans rqgra 8 WOODSHOP WIDGET If you appreciate the versatility of a Swiss Army knife. this $3.... . Good staining and finishing qualities. Works well with tools. And that's exactly what this app is for. It groups species by color so that you can identify a particular board in a stack of lumber. Southern Red Is 0. 30 par1s.. this may just be the app you've been looking for. It costs $2. White Oual"C\. mortising and c:al'lfing..99. this unique cut list app accurately lays out each individual project part to optimize the saw cuts. albe Stan Moisture r. Mahogany. geographic origin.. it provides a host of information for over 150 wood species from around the world. . l1"" Nolllfost to •1 ..~~~~~'. White. 3/ 32 1>01... AmbiSaw.06 Urnes as stable With the growth rings and 0. there's a cost calculator for solid lumber. .. as . 0 not filled. ! Oak. Along with a high-quality photograph of each species... Species Specifications. Fiddleback . you're provided with additional detailed information.~<. ...99 app may be for you. Compare Oalt southern Red Ouercus faJcntn J 6 ~. ! CompOI{. screwing. gluing.(/. ~l'-~~ Humldit~ Temp End Moisture ~~ Humidity Oak..l":i. ~ . It incorporates several useful woodworking functions. If you work with a lot of sheet goods like plywood and JvfDF. You'll find details such as workability. .085" . The AmbiCalc and AmbiSaw apps were designed to solve specific woodworking problems. shown on the right.0.97 soconds.78 umss as hard. • •• . Lastly.64 Urnes as stable across the growth rings as Oak. take the time to learn a little about the species of wood you '/I be using.. nus makes routing with a template and guide bushing foolproof. helps you get the most from your sheet goods by laying out an efficient cutting diagram for a project. You can browse a list of woods by common name or search for a specific species. 1.'.99 and includes a fractional calculator and a bushing offset calculator. Know Your Wood. nailing. This includes grain and texture. ~- Movement W.'4. r. . The app also includes a cabinet calculator for generating dimensions for all the parts. Costing $4. . Like a lot of the other 11 . Janlca Hardness 800 Specific Gravity 0. After a quick viewing of the online documentation and demo video.99. .. Two Useful Apps.. durability. But it also includes the ability to compare two species of wood based on hardness. 0. ShopN otes.. and radial and tangential stability..l"Ii'{m"11l ~. difficulty of gluing. ..~~ r-'-6 - l80~'F1 Temp -J ..58 Origin Central America Sustainability Threatened Durability Good Wood Working Properties Extremely Sl'a ble hard wood with good weathering qualities. and finishing qualities.-. Before designing and building a project. or flatsawn. Another feature allows you to calculate the seasonal movement of wood as the humidity and temperature changes depending on whether the board was riftsawn. Accounting for wood movement is an important design consideration for any woodworking project. Complolcd 9. Perhaps the most valuable information provided concerns the woodworking properties of each species.063· . in Top bullon ( !""lMWi!(~"· ) OffSet Templ2i1:e length wIdlt1 for cut instructiDns . At $19. WoodsllOP Widget has straightforward uses like calculating board feet and converting decimals to fractions.. ~.-.8atanical Name SWietenia spp.7& times dense. and more. hardness. You can see this in the left image. 4. 1. WOOD Having a basic knowlege of the wood you plan to use can really help when designing and building a project.. quartersawn..~-~~<' . density. This is important because expansion and contraction varies with how the board was GUt (far right image).~~ " • Chango ~r. common uses.. shaping. it'll only take a bit of practice to master the program and create custom cut lists in almost no time at all.. . AMBICALC " AMBISAW Another handy app worth a look is AmbiCalc (left image).in oppNlp'iotc formal 0.

just lift it slightly and slide it out. There's not one piece of hardware on it. The secret is a lipped drawer front that nestles into a dado in the tote's bottom when the drawer is closed. The tool tote you see here fills the bill.we'll give you all the tips and tricks you need for great results. 12 ShopNotes No.Classic joinery and a unique drawer catch are sure to challenge your skills. • Having a place for all of my most-used hand tools and supplies makes every project go a little smoother. To open the drawer. But don't worry . The case is assembled with dovetails and the drawer boxes are made with halfblind dovetails. There's plenty of joinery that's sure to test your woodworking skills. It's an ingenious solution. It's a take-off of a shipwright's toolbox. 120 . yet the drawers stay in place as you carry the box around.

com 13 .22 %-dia.Exploded View Details OVERALL DIMENSIONS: to''W x 23"lx 12"H HANDLE CUT AND SHAPED FROM THICK BLANK SHELF SEPARATES OPEN STORAGE AREA FROM DRAWER COMPARTMENT LONG-GRAIN STRIP REINFORCES SHORT GRAIN ON TOTE ENDS DOWELS JOIN HANDLE TO CASE CASE BOTTOM ASSEMBLED WITH TONGUE &. xl DRAWERS K L Drawer Drawer Drawer Drawer Sides (4) Backs (2) Fronts (2) Bottoms (2) Y2 x 2% -11 \.2 x 21% . GROOVE JOINERY ~ FINGER HOLE ALLOWS EASY DRAWER REMOVAL DRAWERS JOINED WITH HALF-BLIND DOVETAILS To download a Sketch Up model and cutting diagram.8% \.6-10% ShopN otes.23 \.2 x 2% .23 SECTION VIEW % x 9'li6 . go to: ShopNotes.2 x 9Y2 .22 Y2x~-9 lx 3 .com Materials CASE A B ( D E F G H Ends (2) Reinforcing Strips (2) Sides (2) Bottom (1) Shelf (1) Cleats (2) Handle (1) Dowels (4) Y2 X 8 -10 Ysxl-7% 112 x 7 .8% % x 8V.

Two ends are joined to the sides with through dovetails. To make sure the location and 0 14 ShopNotes No. 120 . 1 used straight-grained pine. you're ready to begin making all the parts.DF'GURE NOTE: CUT ALL JOINERY ON RECTANGULAR ..) The waste between the two tails is removed with only one pass over the dovetail bit. After that. 45808. The main difference is that you'll leave an opening at each end for the drawers . End Blanks. Shallow Dado. To cut crisp. r 8 END REINFORCING STRip NOTE: '-~~ NOTE: ALL PARTS EXCEPT REINFORCING STRIPS MADE FROM 'k"-THICK STOCK TOP VIEW DIMENSIONS ARE TO CENTERUNE OF BIT . This reinforcing strip helps strengthen the grain toward the top of the end pieces for the handle you'll add later on. dean tails. Reposition the stop block for each of the other two passes to complete the tails. Planing. Cutting the Tails._". You can use just about any dovetail bit you have on hand. It starts by attaching an auxiliary fence to a miter gauge (or sled). Once the stock is planed. I cut a rectangular blank and worked on all the joinery before beveling the sides. building the Bo'x The construction of the tool tote is a lot like building a basic box. The main parts for the tote are all ~" thick. (The one I used was a 7 bit made by Amana Tool. A shallow dado centered on the inside face of each blank (Figure la) holds a thin strip. Fonning a Lip. with the two ends. laying out the location of the dovetail joinery is the next step.And I'll show you a "hybrid" technique for creating the dovetail joints. The drawing at right shows the simple setup Iused. as shown in Figure 1. I used a straight bit in the router table to complete this task. A tongue along the bottom edge of each end piece (Figure Ib) becomes part of the drawer stop later. It involves a little hand tool work combined with some work at the router table. 1 started Routing Dovet~ils The great thing about cutting the tails on these dovetail joints is that you can do it at the router table.BLANK BEFORE CUTTING BEVELS Vz"-RAD. A stop block is clamped to the fence for locating the workpiece in relation to the bit for routing away the waste. Make the same cut on both edges of the two end pieces. so planing the stock to thickness is the first order of business. The dimensions shown in Figure 1 will give you the layout. I used a dovetail bit in the router table. No.

Then use a sharp chisel to remove the waste. Cut up to the lines (top drawing). Pin Layout. Just make a note of the grain direction. The sides of the tool tote shown in Figure 2 require a little work before you can join them to the ends. you'll want to use a stop block on an auxiliary fence (see the box at the bottom of the opposite page). FIGUQE NOTE: SIDE5 A!o:E EXTRA WIDE AND TRIMMED ro WIDTH AFTER JOINERY 15 COMPLETE END b. cutting right up to the line. Then you can step over to the router table and rout the round over along the top edge. NOTE: LOCATE iHE END AS SHOWN THEN LAYOUiTHE PINS USING A MARKING KNIFE ~ Cut & Chop. I also marked the depth of the cut on the sides. Reinforcing Strips. The band saw is a quick way to cut the ends to shape. you can cut the grooves for the shelf and bottom. Before cutting the ends to shape. use a fine-tooth saw. This is what defines the height of the drawer compartment (near right drawing). (You'll rout the roundover on the bottom edge after the case is assembled. I cut them to length but left them about l. The shelf's location isn't critical. NOTE: ENq5 ARE GHOSiED FOR CLARIfY I Once the joints fit tight. as shown in Figure 15 . To remove the waste between the pins. I used a marking knife. it's a matter of tracing around the dovetails to layout the pins.4" wide so they could be trimmed after the dovetail pins are cut. When attaching them. . ShopN otes. Sloped Sides. I laid out the top radius then drew the lines to these end points. Figure 2b shows how the top edge should meet at the lower "point" of the bevel. turn the page to start on the bottom and shelf of the tote. The box below steps you through the process of laying out and cutting the pins. the vertical position is important. I only glued the top couple of inches to allow for wood movement. Test the fit of the joint and pare away any excess material until the pieces fit together tight. The only thing to watch here is to make sure the end of the groove for the shelf is covered by the lower dovetail. After that. The first order of business is to use the end pieces to mark the pins on the ends of the sides.) After dry fitting the four pieces together.spacing of the tails is consistent on both end pieces. The inside corners of the top dovetails serves as the end points for the beveled sides. Cutting the Pins with Hand Tools When using the end pieces to lay out the pins on the sides. A little sanding removes the saw marks. Trim & Roundover. so you've got a little wiggle room if your dimensions don't exactly match those shown in Figure 2b. For this. The next thing to do is to cut the sides to their final height. then chop away the waste with a sharp chisel (bottom drawing). as you can see in Figure 1. : i . Sides. Then you can drill the pairs of holes used to attach the handle. I made the thin strips to fit into the shallow dadoes on the inside face.

ROUNDOVER ON ALL BOTTOM EDGES AFTER ASSEMBLY c. After the cleats are added.I used only a dot of glue on the center of the top edge that fits under the shelf. 120 . Case Assembly. you can see how the bottom fits into the sides. 57190) with its radiused bearing creates smooth. No Ridges. With the shelf and bottom in hand.the shelf. Once you're satisfied with the joinery. It fits into the upper groove in the sides.. Complete the Roundcvers. Again. there are a few other parts to make . The pair of cleats come next. The next order of business is the Y. a radiused bear" ing creates a smooth profile. / " Ridge. "Smooth Solution. xl") FtGURE G (1" x 3" . FRONT VIEW completing the Details Before you glue the sides and ends together. A tongue along the bottom edge of the drawer front rests in this dado to act as a builtin drawer catch. I started with the bottom. but you'll add those later. I didn't glue the shelf so that it could "float" in the grooves in the sides.22") HANDLE a. Tongue & Dado Joinery. It's supported by a pair of cleats at each end.. Shelf. Then you can just tuck the cleat under the shelf through the drawer opening and apply a small clamp to hold it in place. as in • . Figure 3b. / SHELF DOWEL H . b. They're cut to length to fit between the sides . If you take a look at Figures 3 and 3a. 16 ShopN otes No. The face that's fastened to the tote end is glued the full length. A tongue along both long edges fits into the bottom groove in the sides. Creating a half-round profile with a standard bit leaves a ridge that will need sanding. . you can rout a dado at each end. you can add glue and clamps. END VIEW CLEAT GLUED TO END FRONT VIEW NOTE: ROUT '/4"-RAD.o (W'-DIA. Cleats. you can dry assemble everything to check for a good fit. You can sand away the ridge or use a bit with a radiused bearing for the second pass (margin photo and right drawing). half-round profiles. bottom.. SIDE . This bit by Amana (No. The second pass can leave a small ridge because you've routed away the flat bearing surface on the first pass (left drawing).t"-thick shelf you see in Figure 3. While you're there. On the second pass. I used the router table for this cut. you'll rout a round over on all of the Smooth Roundovers Using a roundover bit to create a bullnose or half-round profile creates a problem when you can't use the fence. and handle.

Making the Fronts. ShopNotes. Drawers. you'll want to use one of the side pieces to help you locate it. Layout. A basic oil finish is all I applied before gathering_ my tools and getting to work. Shaped Handle. the band saw makes quick work of roughing out the shape. assemble the drawers. Figures 4a and 4b show how the sides are joined to the front and back. The fronts are a little wider to accommodate a tongue on the top and bottom. Working from both directions. At this point. DRAWER BACK in Figure 4c. you'll build a matching pair of drawers. The dovetails are used to layout the sockets on the front and back (see the box below). as t IFIGURE DRAWER SIDE (W'~2W'-11") b. The handle shown in Figure 3 is cut from a T'-thick blank. Use the dovetail on the side piece to locate and layout the sockets on the front and back.bottom edges of the tote. Use a sharp chisel and mallet to define the edges of the socket before paring the waste. and test their fit in the openings. I went ahead and cut the groove for the drawer bottom in these extra-long blanks then cut the backs and sides to length. then trim and sand them flush. I started by routing the ends so that any tearout would be removed when routing the long edges. drill a finger hole to act as a drawer pull. A Defining the Edges. After a little final sanding. These form the mating parts of the drawer stop and catch. Glue the dowels in place. . When cutting the groove for the drawer bottom in the drawer fronts. The blank is cut to fit between the tote ends. you'll again use the router table. Lastly.i Half-Blind Dovetail Drawer Joinery WA5TE DRAWER FRONT DRAWER FRONT . you're ready for the joinery. To complete the tote. After laying out the two 17 . The box at the bottom of the opposite page shows a couple of ways to rout the roundovers after you've sanded away the band saw marks. Then you can cut away half the thickness of the dovetail on the inside face (Figure 4a). Joinery. so you can rip a long blank for each drawer. All you need to do is size the drawer bottoms. f. work your way toward the bottom of the socket. The back and sides of the drawer are the same width. Waste Removal. To form the single dovetail on the sides. Their unique construction shown in Figure 4 will sharpen your hand tool skills. you can clamp the handle in place and use the dowel holes in the ends as guides to drill into the handle.

All in all. translate into a rough finish on the workpiece. it's a simple build that has big benefits for your turning projects. midi-lathes often lack the mass to dampen troubling vibration. And if you have an extension for the lathe. The lathe stand you see above is made from dense MDP. 120 . there's a matching stand for that. This added weight means you'll get better results with your turning project. /' 18 ShopNotes No. • A midi-lathe is the perfect balance of affordability and capability But unlike their larger cousins. These vibrations can. you can add even more mass by removing the center panel and stacking concrete paver blocks inside. But the best part is. too.Give your midi-lathe a home with rock-solid support and plenty of storage space . Levelers ensure that the stand stays flat on the floor and doesn't wobble while you're turning. The lathe stand also has plenty of storage space for accessories and turning blanks. It adds a lot of mass to absorb vibration.

1 MDF 28 x 36 .16") OPTIONAL EXTENSION I Mounting Block (1) J End Mount (1) K End (1) L Top (1) 19 .% MDF N Bottom (1) 12 x 71-4.1Y2 MDF M Fixed Shelf (1) l2 x 28Y2 . go to: Materials & Hardware CASE (2) A Top/Bottom B End Panels (2) C Pads (2) D Back (1) E Fronts (2) F Cleats (2) G Center Panel (ll H Adjustable Shelves (4) • (4) Levelers • (4) 51\6"-18 T-Nuts 12 x36 -1Y2 MDF 12 x 23Y2 .% MDF 8 x 2B-% MDF % x 1.1x 2-12 6 x 12.% MDF 12 x 8 .1l.1" Fh Woodscrews • (4) #8 x 11-4"Oval Head Woodscrews • (4) #8 Finish Washers • (8) Concrete Pavers (2" x 8" .W2 MDF Bx28-%MDF 0 Front/Rear (2) P Adjustable Shelves (2) 7x n%-%MDF • (2) Levelers • (4) V.23Y2 20x25-%MDF 7 x 11%.% MDF • (20J #6 x 1%" Trim-Head Woodscrews • (16) 1-4"Shelf Supports • (20) #8 x 1l.% MDF 12 x 28.Exploded View Details OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 131f2 D x 36"W x 289/'e"H (WITHOUT EXTENSION) 131J2aD)( 66aw )( 289/'e"H (WITH EXTENSION) Q OPTIONAL LATHE BED EXTENSION LEVELER PADS CAN BE LOCATED TO SUITYOUR LAiHE ADJUSTABLE SHELVES OFFER PLENTY OF STORAGE SPACE CONCREiE PAVER BLOCKS HELP DAMPEN VIBRAilON CENTER PANEL PROVIDES LOTS OF SPACE FOR HANGING TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES ~'IONLINE ~EXTRAS To download a Sketch Up model & cutting diagram.% MDF 12 x 28Y2 .6"-lB T-Nuts • (l2) #6 x 1%" Trim-Head Woodscrews • {2J 51\6"-18 x 3" Carriage Bolts • (2J 51\6" Washers • (2) 51\6"-18 Insert Knobs • (8) 1-4"Shelf Supports ShopN otes.

The next items to add are the pads. you can pre-cut a lot of MDF strips and then cut them to length as you need them.. And since most of the parts are cut to the same width.They're sized to accommodate most midi-lathes . After cutting the parts to length. Figure 1 shows you the order of assembly. as shown in Figure 2. To help square up and strengthen the assembly. I used the plunge cut technique shown at the bottom of the opposite page. They fit flush with the ends of the top and are Simply glued in place. You can set this sub-assembly up on the bench and work on the remaining cabinet parts. I used a few clamps to hold the panel edges flush while the glue dried. HOLE ~ o 20 ShopNotes No. I first attached the end panels to the inner layers of the top and bottom using glue and screws. 120 . THEN ASSEMBLE END PANELS TO INNER LAYER OF TOP AND BOTTOM FIRST: SECOND: @ ADD OUTER LAYER TO TOP AND ElOTTOM Lathe Pads. it's a good idea to drill the four holes in the bottom for the levelers.. Assembly. I added the second layer. To hide the screws and add strength. A trip to the router table is next to create the %"-rad. The top and base of the cabinet are both built up from two layers of MDF. Before moving on. Front Panels. TOPV1EW (BOTTOM) %n_DIA. you cut the parts from MDF and assemble them with glue and screws. They're cut to 8" wide and then cut to length to fit flush with the top of the pads and the bottom. roundover on all the outside edges. you'll install the two front panels. The process starts by cutting 12/1 strips of MDF for the parts shown in Figure 1. you'll need to cut a long notch in the two bottom panels. To make the straight cut to complete the notch. Build an liB" Frame. Two end panels connect the top and bottom. WOODSCREW #8xlW'fh DRILL COUNTERSUNK SCREW HOLES.start with the Stand One of the things you'll find about building the main lathe stand (and the optional extension) is that the assembly goes pretty quick In a nutshell.

com 21 . Their extrasmall head makes them easier to countersink and hide when it comes time to paint. Like the two bottom panels. straight cut is an easy process. turn off the saw and lower the blade. but I used a few screws to hold things in place since clamping would be a little awkward. 'k"-RAD. In this case. Then turn on the saw and slowly raise the blade through the workpiece. Adding T-nuts and levelers (Figure 2b) makes the stand steady on uneven floors. With the blade lowered. Before moving on. Instead of using flathead wood screws as clamps. slide the workpiece into place. damp a long scrap piece to the fence to act as a hold -down. I made a Simple plywood template. ShopN otes. Levelers. I waited until after assembly. PlungeCut The long notches on the base and back panel can be cut easily at the table saw. Next. I installed just enough screws around the edges of the panels to hold them tight to the main case while the glue set up. Trim-head screws hold parts in place and are easy to hide. it's a good idea to fill all the screw holes and sand everything smooth. VlEW ENP. The levelers thread into the T-nuts you tap into the holes. You can also cut the ends of the notch at the table saw and finish up with a hand saw. This way. Wood glue is strong enough. a hand-held router is your best choice for creating the roundover along the edges of the paneL Assembly. " Small Heads. Next. you can turn your attention to the solid back panel. After laying out the notch. I used trimhead screws. Shelf Pin Holes. I used the same procedure as before to cut this notch (see box below). Since there are so many holes to drill. ROUNDOVER END PANEL @ NOTE: ROUfEW' ROUNDOVER ON ALL EDGES OF BACK EXCEPf NOTCH AREA or after assembly. you can move on to drilling holes for the adjustable shelf supports. Finally. making the long. there's a long notch cut along the top edge.Back Panel. This ensures all the holes are aligned (refer to Shop Short Cuts on page 27). The levelers are easy to install and can be adjusted once the stand is moved to its final location. There's always a debate about whether to drill shelf pin holes before ~ NOTE: ALL PARTS ARE%"MDF a. You're ready to add the back and front panels to the sub-assembly. Cut to the layout lines (the kerfs will be hidden). The screw holes will be filled and painted over. Making a Plunge Cut. You'll measure from the fence to the outside of the blade. After laying out the notch. like the ones shown in the right margin. position the rip fence to locate the notch accurately. After the front panels are complete.

But there's one more piece to add . If your work involves turning spindles. And they're fastened to the stand with the 1" width facing the front. making the adjustable shelves couldn't be easier. you're ready to prime and paint the stand. I used finish washers and oval-head screws to fasten the panel to the cleats. Mounting Block. it adds additional storage capacity with a fixed shelf and adjustable shelves on the end.'0/4" MDF} CENTER PANEL BOTTOM I F (3/4" x 1" . As you can see in Figure 3. a lathe extension is just the ticket (main photo. the panel can be cut to fit the opening. And you can customize the front of it with dowel hangers to provide storage for some tools and lathe accessories. It hides the concrete pavers used to add mass to the stand. you'll probably want to wait on the paint. Then you can work on a layout and drill holes for dowels for hanging tools and accessories. You can set the shelves aside until after the stand is painted. you can add the stand extension shown in Figure 4 . Stand Extension. Take note that these cleats are located flush with the inside front edge of the __. Figure 3 shows you how the panel is mounted to a pair of hardwood cleats. as shown on the next page.. notch in the bottom. (7" x 111'8". The first thing to do when building the @ (20" x 25" .opnON l EXTENSION Most lathe manufacturers offer an optional bed extension that increases the capacity of their smaller lathes. After you fasten the cleats in place with screws.. But if you want to build the optional extension. . The finishing touches include adding the adjustable shelves and a center panel to close in the cabinet. 120 .finishing up the Stand & Extension By now you've got the basic shell of the lathe stand complete.the center panel you see at right. It's flush with the top of the shelf and bottom edge of the stand.23%") CLEA'- 22 #8x1W' OVAL-HEAD WOODSCREW wlFINISH WASHER ShopNotes No. At this point. opposite page). finish Up. To accommodate the bed extension. Plus. Simple Shelves.It's designed to bolt right up to the main stand.'14" MDF) SHELF H After drilling the four pilot holes in the panel. They're simply cut to size and installed in the ends of the stand with shelf supports. It serves two purposes. Center Panel.

L-Shaped Assembly. Like the main stand. Front & Rear Panels. After gluing the layers of the top and bottom together. you'll add the front and Tear panels. To tie everything together into a strong assembly. They're cut to size and the edges rounded over just like you did 23 . Finally. Cut to Width. In no time at all. The upper portion features a two-layer top with a fixed shelf underneath. adjust the levelers on the stand's extension to bring the bed extension close to alignment with the main • . As you can see in Figure 4a. you'll be turning great projects and appreciating this solid workstation. There are just a few things left to do before painting. .extension is to fasten a hardwood mounting block to the main stand.FIGURE lathe bed. 4 (12" ><28'12") TOP L NOTE: ALL PARTS EXCEPT MOUNTING SLOCK ARE MADE FROM %" MDF #6 x We-" TRIM-HEADD WOODSCREW a.. You'll need to make sure it's aligned with the lathe bed first. Leveling the Extension. fastening the extension to the main stand just involves installing a couple of knobs. it's made from MDF. For additional capacity. Using a long straightedge. Once the block is in place. I started by cutting several 12" MDF strips.. you can drill the two holes in the bottom for levelers and begin the assembly process. I used glue and a few trim-head screws to fasten them in place. FRONT VIEW @ FRON (12" x 71-'4") END MOUNT BOTTOM N ShopN otes. I placed the bed extension in position and loosely threaded in the attachment bolts. Then you can add the bottom. you can start to work on the stand extension. The vertical portion mirrors the storage areas of the main lathe stand. and bottom. it fits under the top of the main stand and flush with the outside edges of the storage area. add this extension to the lathe stand. This starts by fastening the top and shelf to the end mount and end panel with trim screws. end panel. Expandable. end mount. Then you can tweak the alignment with the levelers on the lathe extension before tightening the fasteners. cut the shelves to size. install a pair of T-nuts and levelers. The first is to drill holes for the shelf supports. Again. I used the same template for this task as before. The photo at right shows how the extension resembles an upsidedown "L" shape. These form the top. As I mentioned. A pair of holes drilled in the mounting block are for carriage bolts that secure the extension with knobs and washers (inset photo at right). To do this. But you're not quite ready to use your lathe's bed extension. shelf. Next.

This same technique works with an oscillating spindle sander. That's right. It's usually a cheaper route too. And since there are no tearout worries. Or. here are some helpful pointers. But a planer isn't always the best solution. Setup. 120 . the workpiece is fed between a fence and the sanding drum to create the even thickness. Both methods work well. too (see the box on the facing page). you can pick and choose the boards with just the right figure and grain. The easy answer is to run the freshly cut boards through a planer. the solution is the drill press and a sanding drum.. Before & After. the technique even works for highly figured wood. figured wood. But no matter which you choose. VV"hen project calls for parts less than %" a thick.on easy way Thin Stock 0 crea e Teach your drill press a new trick. You can see everything you need to get started in the photo above. res awing your own custom stock from thick boards is a great solution. since you pay premium prices at the lumberyard or home center for thin stock. You have two options for making these resaw cuts: band saw or table saw. Thin stock. Inthese situations. With a simple technique. I like to use a large sanding drum (mine 24 ShopNotes No. If you're ready to give it a try. consistent parts in a short time. The upper margin photo shows the blade marks you can expect. And best of all. you can also get them as thin as you like. you can sand small parts to any thickness needed. the cut face will likely need some cleanup. you may not have a planer at all. In addition. In a nutshell. you can accurately sand pieces to an identical thickness. • . With this simple setup. and short pieces (less than 12" long) may cause trouble for some planers. They'll make the task foolproof and give you smooth. A sanding drum in your drill press creates custom thin stock for less..

you may need to stop and move the fence back a bit and start again. stand-alone Although usually used to smooth curves. and prevents burning. In addition. It won't take long to realize that this process generates a lot of dust. the drum may just skip along hitting . I clean the drum regularly with a crepe 3" in diameter) with an 80-grit sleeve. I set the distance from the fence to the drum to match the thickness of the rough cut parts. To avoid having the drum grab the workpiece. even pace. I simply tap the back of . Now. you'll need a few other items.8"). Getting Started.64" closer to the drum is about right. So when I do need to hit a precise measurement. With this setup. a stand-alone oscillating spindle sander can be used to thickness sand. Another nice feature is that it's taller so I can work with wider parts (up to 27. The key is patience. you may not remove much material. Spindle Sander the fence with a mallet without loosening the clamps. But the .com . Forcing the cut may deflect the drum. Final Thickness. you'll develop a "feel" for the best feed rate for your stock. In helps the drum last longer. Second Pass. you need to take light passes. Guide the piece at a smooth. a table with a hole large enough to recess the drum is necessary so you can sand the entire width of the workpiece. I positioned the fence behind the drum to give me a clear view of the process. In order to end up with smooth. In fact. The result of your efforts is smooth. Before adjusting the fence for the second pass. even surface. I don't measure each time. «1 25 ShopN otes. Several Passes. remember to run all your parts through. as shown in the left photo. it's just a matter of repeating the sanding and fence adjusting process until you reach the final thickness. Finally. Use one hand to hold the workpiece against the fence and the other to push it through. It can be a challenge to accurately measure the distance between the fence and the sanding drum. It prolongs the life of the drum and keeps it working efficiently. The only difference is you'll feed the workpiece from left to right. Don't worry. as in the right photo. cut fact. So it's a good idea to keep your shop vacuum dose to keep the dust from building up along the fence. you can quickly remove it with a random orbit sander or a hand sanding block. only the "high" spots. The up-and-down motion of the drum creates a smoother surface. consistent thin stock ready for your project. that means the workpiece will move from right to left as you face the drill press. In addition to the sanding drum. you need to feed it against the rotation of the drill press. Then you can start the drill press and feed the workpiece between the drum and the fence. The one you see here is glued up from two layers of %" plywood. Cleaning. Second. Dust Control. This can lead to a tapered workpiece. On the first pass. The first item is a sturdy fence. a thin push stick made from 1f4" hardboard keeps your fingers clear of the drum. On this first pass. After a few passes. The actual sanding is pretty straightforward.. too. The downside of using a coarse-grit drum is that the workpiece will have a noticeable scratch pattern. I cut a spacer block to use as a set-up gauge to set the fence for the final pass. flat pieces. It runs cooler than a smaller drum and won't load up with sawdust and pitch as quickly. moving the fence about 1. Instead. A crepe stick exact amount isn't critical. In a short time. If things go too slow. For the next pass. This guarantees all the pieces will be the same thickness. the blade and burn marks from resawing will disappear leaving a smooth. faster..

the handle caps for the bench vise on page 30 offer some unique challenges. The solution begins by jamming it onto a short section of %"-dia. First I drilled a hole in a scrap to accept the dowel. as shown in the upper left photo.Our Shop u Shop Short Cuts • M. FIGURE cur HEAD OFF SCREW WITH HACKSAW SECOND: FIRST: DRIVE #8" 11k" Fh WOODSCREW INTO END OF DOWEL To install this assembly in the drill press. you'll have a pleasing shape. In order to keep the profile smooth and even. dowel. I lined the hole with some plastic from a grocery bag. The trick is holding the cap securely while still being able to easily remove it later. I wedged a few layers of plastic between the cap and dowel. insert the dowel in the hole and drill a pilot hole for the screw. After driving the screw into the dowel. without moving the blank. I "turned" each cap at the drill press using a file. 120 . 26 ShopNotes No. as shown in Figure 3. To keep the dowel from spinning. Then. barrel shape. I threaded a cut-off screw in one end of the dowel. In a short time. Shaping the cap is as simple as holding a file against the cap as it spins. One of those is giving them a gentle. you can cut the head off with a hacksaw and install the assembly in the drill press. to keep the cap in place.andl~eCap Even though they're small parts. as shown in the upper right photo.oking a H. This screw needs to be perfectly centered for the dowel to spin true and create an even shape. Here again. You can see this in Figures 1 and 2. I trimmed away the excess plastic with a utility knife before starting the drill press.

Once you connect the points with a straightedge. To use the template. as illustrated in the drawings below. you'll have the final shape of each nut. you can drill the holes at the drill press.. It starts by cutting an extralong blank for each nut I cut the blank to the final width of the nut across the flats."-RAD. The next step is to mark a centerline on each blank.Drilling Template When it comes to drilling holes for shelf pins or supports. Then you can set a compass to the radius given for each nut and draw a pair of arcs.. and sides intersect forms the points of the nut. you're guaranteed that the holes will be aligned for stable shelves that won't rock or wobble. I started with a strip 3" wide. sand it smooth. there is a definite order to follow to get a consistent shape. Before cutting the nut to shape. However. To drill the holes in the lathe stand (page 18). After laying out the locations on the centerline. This way. 27 . The large blank is easier to secure at the drill press. After that. Where the arcs. as you can see at right. And I found they're pretty simple to make.. I used a template for both rows of holes. SECOND: DRAW A W. ALIGN EDGE OF TEMPLATE WITH BACK OF CABINET TAPE ACTS AS DEPTH GAUGE Laying out a Hexagon The large wood bench and stop nuts used on the bench vise on page 30 and shown in the photo at right are more comfortable to operate by hand than steel hex nuts. This creates two finished sides right off the bat. DRAW ARCS WITH A COMPASS TO DETERMINE THE CORNERS OF THE NUT ON THE BLANK a through hole for the Acme rod. I'll often wait until the cabinet is assembled. cut out the nut at the band saw staying just on the waste side of the lines. d. it's a good idea to drill the counterbore to accept the steel nut and Stop Nut . ARC THIRD:~""""___ DRAW LINES CONNECTING THE POINTS OFTHE INTERSECTlNG LINES ShopNotes. Then I use a 1. just register the edge against the front or back of the cabinet and drill each hole. At last.4" hardboard or plywood template that registers against the bottom of the cabinet.

• When I discovered how to give my tools a razor edge by using waterstones. you're ready to move on to the sides and ends. I had to resaw some stock to %" thick for the sides and ends. after cutting the sides to final size. First. Each station consists of a riser block surrounded by side and end retainers. But as much as I like waterstones. they can be inconvenient to use. The Problem. It quickly spreads to cover your benchtop or any other surface you use for the task That's why I built the sharpening tray you see in the photo above. I went ahead and installed them using waterproof glue and clamps. I became an overnight convert. Risers. as you can see in Figure 1 on the opposite page. you need to find a way to hold the stone in place while you sharpen.. ShopNotes No. After planing the stock to final thickness. You can start with the base. Then. These holes give you an easy way to hang the tray to allow it to dry after use. The Base. Enclosing the Tray. . I drilled a hole in each end of the base. With that done. The stones are elevated. BUILDING THE TRAY It doesn't take much material to build the tray. The Solution. I used some mahogany left over from another project. Then I rounded the four corners at the band saw and cleaned them up with a little sanding. 120 . But the real problem is the mess they make. You'll find a few thoughts on finishing and maintaining the tray in the box at the bottom of the opposite page. Sharpening my tools has never been easier or resulted in a better edge. allowing you to flatten the backs of plane irons or chisels. The tray is just a long base with three individual platforms for the stones I regularly use.

cut plywood or MDF cauls that fit inside the station walls. layout the locations of the stations. Rinse It Off. That's why I rely on a few simple protective and maintenance measures. On every coat. I res awed and planed some stock for the side and end retainers. ~ Hang It Up. These allow the clamps to fit over the retainers and apply even clamping pressure during the glueup. The Stone Stations. When the glue dries. I first ripped the stock to width for the risers... DF'GURE NOTE: CENTER SIDES ON LENGTH OF eASE . you can rely on either a polyurethane like Gorilla Glue or a PYA glue like Titebond III to hold up well even when it gets wet After installing the sides. Waterstones are great. the stones are easy to get in and out. As you can see in Figure 2a. This will help ensure a good glue bond with the base. END : ~HOlE . They're left open to allow the slurry to drain off the stones. 4: Tough Finish multi-coat. (3/8" )( lW' . They form the lip that prevents the water from dripping onto your bench. just rinse the unit and hang it up to dry as shown in the photos at right. with a light sanding in between each one. make sure the bottoms of the assembled stations are perfectly flat by sanding them on a flat surface. I really went the extra mile when I finished the sharpening tray. After every sharpening session. I paid special attention to the end grain to make sure it was very well sealed. After cutting all the parts to size. This way. END VIEW SIDE RETAINER Assembly. oil-based polyurethane varnish and applied five coats.30") SIDE a. Finally. First. I used a tough. glue the retainers to the risers. ShopN otes. This will guarantee years of good service.Regarding the waterproof glue.. But before you 29 . Then. keeping them evenly spaced on the length and width of the base. Make sure to put plenty of glue on the end grain and on the bottom edge when you install these pieces. but they're a/so messy Remove the stones and rinse off the tray after each use. For starters. but still won't slide around in use. There are a couple things you can do to make gluing up the final assembly a snap. You'll want the riser blocks to be about ~6" wider and longer than the stones. watertight . the side and end retainers are not joined at the comers. Now you can turn your attention to the three stone stations. then cut each one to final length.. take a minute to measure your waterstones. Find a spot in your shop to hang the tray so the water can drip off and it can air dry It's no secret that water can take its toll on a wood fixture. eASE '_~ . I cut the ends to size and glued them in place.

profiled jaws let me work on a piece from a variety of angles.Bench • ISe Raise your work to a whole new level. This vise provides a solid grip and allaround access. The narrow. I made the add-on vise you see here. The design provides three ways to attach it to just about any worksurface or bench. 120 . The design is based on a traditional style of vise. a regular vise is usually too big and too low to work at comfortably: To solve this problem. or €tau. I find them a little lacking. that was once common in France and other parts of Europe. When I'm working with small pieces. It's made from stout hardwood and rugged Acme threaded rods to deliver all the clamping force of a standard vise but in a compact package. the best ShopNotes No. Perhaps best of all. There's one other benefit I want to's a real back-saver. the vise is elevated so I'm not stooped over while working . or doing detail work that requires a lot of finesse. • The two large vises on my workbench supply a lot of clamping versatility to hold a range of workpieces steady: But sometimes.

6 1x 3 . TURN PAGE 51 ro Materials & Hardware A B C D E F G H Front/Rear Jaws (2) Bracket (1) Jaw Faces (2l Hub (1) Handle (1) Caps (2) Stop Nut (1) Bench Nut (1) 2h x 4'h -18 2Y4 x4Yz-7h 'h x 1%-4% 2x2-2}4 %-dia. x 10 .3Ys • (5) #8 x 1" Fh Brass Woodscrews • (1) 1"-6 x 12" Acme Threaded Rod • (1) %"-8 x 12" Acme Threaded Rod • (1) 1"-6 Acme Nut • (1) %"-8 Acme Nut • (2) 1" Flat Washers • (1) Va" Flat Washer • (1) YJl" x M' (otter Pin • (1) lW x 4" Steel Pipe • (1) Y/ x 231i6" Steel Rod • (1) W-1D x 7" Hex Bolt • (1) }4"-10 Hex Nut • (2) W Flat Washers ShopN otes. x % % x 2 -21. RIGID BLANKS RESIST DEFLECTION ro HARDWOOD SfOP NUT KEEPS VISE JAWS PARALLEL SHOP-MADE HANDLE CAPS PROVIDE COMFORfABlE GRIP NOTE: FOR HARDWARE SOURCES.Exploded View Details OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 133/4nD X 4Vz"W x 18'/&"H JAW FACES CAN BE REPLACED WHEN WORN CURVED TOP OF JAWS MAXIMIZE ACCESS ro WORKPIECE CLAMPED IN VISE NOTE: REFER TO PAGE 3:3 FOR SPECIAL-PURPOSE JAW FACES CAPTURED NUT ACCEPfS ACME THREADED ROD LARGE BOLT SECURES VISE TO WORKBENCH fHROUGH BENCH DOG HOLES VISE SCREW SECURED HUB WlfH PIN AND EPOXY ro WIDE BRACKET LETS YOU CLAMP VISE ro ANY FLAT WORKSURFACE COffER PIN ALLOWS FRONf JAW TO REfRACf WHEN VISE 15 RELEASED G BENCHNUT APTURES HEX NUT TO SECURE VISE IN DOG HOLES VISE JAWS GLUED UP INTO THICK.

heavy-duty Jaws VVhen it comes right down to it. To keep it from ever working loose. the front jaw rests on the main screw. To accomplish the first goal. The faces of the vise can be rep/aced if they get damaged or worn. The jaws are joined by a pair of threaded rods that serve this purpose. hardwood jaws.. So I glued up each jaw O·FIGURE (GLUE UP AFTER DRILLING HOLES) (21(.. head over to the drill press with the two jaw components. Drill a counterbore in the back face of the thicker piece to accept an Acme threaded hex nut. Stock this thick isn't easy to find. Jaws. I sized the counterbore for a snug. The front jaw blank can be glued up right away: But hold off on the rear jaw.. My goals for the jaws were to provide a firm grip on a workpiece and also give me good access for working. the vise basically consists of a pair of jaws and a mechanism to squeeze them together."-DIA. fit the nut into the counterbore. The front jaw needs a through hole as well. Before gluing the jaw pieces together. Instead. I made the jaws from 2l. So to keep the top of the jaws flush. there are two more holes to drill near the bottom of each jaw. 120 . I began work on the vise by making the large. Then drill a through hole in both pieces to provide clearance for the threaded rod." x 4\'. upper rod applies the clamping pressure.4"-thick blanks. But there's another reason I glued up the jaws." . The lower rod has a stop nut that serves as a fulcrum and prevents the jaws from racking when tightened. as shown in the side view drawing in Figure 1. press fit. blank from two pieces of thinner stock. 1"-6 ACME HEX NUT %"-DIA.e. (I used white oak. These accept the lower screw. THROUGH HOLE DRILLED AFTER GLUEUP 32 ShopNotes No. The stopped hole in the front jaw is sized to hold a %" Acme REAR JAW FRONT JAW A NOTE: EACH CONSISTS OF LAYER AND A LAYER GLUED JAW A W. is that while the nut centers the main screw in the hole in the rear jaw.18) . That's to capture a nut for the main screw in the rear jaw. The reason .) This stout construction means the jaws won't flex when you tighten the screw. I poured epoxy around the edges. You can see this in Figure 1 below. A Few More Holes."-THICK I(z"-THICK TOGETHER FRONT JAW 7% 6 lV. The large. Once the glue dries on the rear jaw. the clearance hole is shifted down a bit. But this smaller hole is drilled in a slightly different location from the first (Figure 1). Hardwood Faces.

. The series of V-grooves in these faces hold round stock without slipping. The final details on the jaws are adding a few curves. the front jaw is free to move. a large roundover softens the sharp edge. To make the notch. I cut the notches at the table saw with a dado blade.71'4") BRACKET B NOTE: LOCATE AND DRILL r. After completing the holes. " x 41f.. V-Groove Jaws.threaded rod. round over the sharp comers. The lower end of the front jaw is a hair narrower than the rear jaw. These are simply cut to size and screwed in place. The one in the rear jaw is slightly larger so the jaw won't bind on the rod in use. You can also clamp it in a vise on your workbench. In the box below. I cut down the lower portion of each jaw to make it a little narrower. ShopNotes. I cut the rabbets at the table saw with a dado blade."-DIA. Faces. The shoulder is beveled to transition to the thinner section. The bracket is just one option for attaching the vise to a worksurface."-RAD. %. I cut the cheeks at the table saw (Figure 3b). Then at the bottom of the jaw.. Then the remaining waste is removed at the band saw. The last items to add to the jaws are the faces. Before gluing the bracket in place. Leather-fined jaws provide a firm grip on odd-shaped objects without leaving vise marks. drill a hole in it to match the location of the bench dog holes in your workbench. as illustrated in Figure 2a.. The top and bottom of each jaw are shaped. Throw in A Few Curves. The next detail applies only to the rear 33 . It has a wide notch that fits the notches in the rear jaw. ~ Leather Jaws. Later you'll add a bracket to the back that lets you attach the vise to your workbench. there are some more details to add to each jaw. To do this. Replaceable jaw faces nest here to grip the workpieces. you can see a couple options for specialpurpose faces you may consider. as you can see in Figure 3. I did this so that if the vise is clamped in a workbench vise. Finally. HOLE IN BRACKET TO ALIGN WITH BENCH DOG HOLES ON YOUR BENCH a. as in Figure 2. Here again. Details. Bracket. The first is a shallow rabbet cut along the inside faces. The bracket locks into notches cut in the rear jaw.. The curved top serves to offer greater (2\1.!" . . MITER GAUGE FENCE access to a workpiece clamped in the vise. The next part to make is the bracket. CUT PROFILE ON EACH JAW REMOVE REMAINING WASTE AT BAND SAW f----I AUX.

120 . The first few steps take place while the hub is still a square blank. you can cut the hub to rough shape. That task falls to the hub. stay as close to the line as possible. The bands are just short sections of steel pipe. • Apply Force. It will be covered by the steel band. If you taper the tenon slightly.applying the Squeeze Completing the jaws lets you focus on the mechanism that supplies the clamping pressure . In Figure 6. round hub in short order. Creating the tenon on each end of the hub is the next order of business.. UNDERCUT SHOULDER FOR SEAMLESS FIT 34 ShopNotes No. I centered the steel band on the end and traced both the inside and outside of the band. I used the steel bands as a pattern. To lay out the final shape of the hub.2%") D HUB a. cut to length. lW' SiEEL 'PIPE (2" 0. it will ease the fit of the band in place. I mentioned how the screw threads into a nut captured in the rear jaw. you can see how to cut the sides of the tenon . you can get a smooth. I put a strip of tape on the blade to act as a depth gauge for the cuts. There's more to it than just a section of Acme threaded rod. The other hole is a cross hole for the hardwood handle. The first was a stopped hole in the end sized to accept the main screw. As you make this cut. Don't worry if you cut a little deeper. Steel bands on each end keep the hub from splitting. I did this at the band saw. It starts with cutting the shoulder. After drilling the holes. A hardwood hub strengthened by steel bands lets you lock the vise down. you don't need a lathe to make it. Just be sure to cut the ends as square as possible. you can see what the finished hub looks like. x \12") FIRST: LAY OUT CENTER AND TRACE RING ON EACH END HOLES SECOND: DRILL Making the Hub. But you'll still have a nice tight fit at the end. as you can see in Figure 4. A wide bearing surface on the end pushes the front jaw. with a little hand work. The outside line is the final profile of the hub. however. I started by marking the centerpoint on each end of the hub. While the hub was still square I drilled a couple of holes. I did this with a hand saw.0. And a cross handle allows you to apply an iron grip to a workpiece in the vise. The inner line marks the side of a short tenon that the band will slide over. Round Tenon. This will make cleaning up the hub much easier. Then to make sure the nitRD: CUT HUB TO ROUGH6HAPE (2" x 2" . In the photo at right. Instead. Earlier.the main screw. Although the final shape of the hub is round.I used a chisel and a mallet to pop small sections of the waste off. as shown in Figure 5. But you need a way to turn the screw and to draw the front jaw against the rear jaw.

I undercut the shoulder of the tenon slightly. The key here is keeping the rod aligned with the hub. as shown in Figures lIb and LIe. This is illustrated in Figure 6a. as you can see in Figure 7. After testing the fit and finetuning the 35 . you can finish shaping the hub. At this stage. I added a pin through the band. To reinforce this connection. To supply even pressure. A file works great here since it cuts quickly and isn't damaged if you catch the bands. For this to happen. But when the screw is released.1"-6~12" ACME ROD NOTE: USE FRAMING SQUARE TO CHECK IF SHAFT 15 ALIGNED WITH HUB seam between the band and the shoulder was tight. Once the epoxy dries. This is shown in Figure 8. On its own. o ~o. Connecting the Front Jaw. Then I finished up with sandpaper to smooth both the wood and the metal. as shown in Figures 9 and 10. I buttered the tenons with some epoxy and then pressed each band in place. Then it's back to the drill press to drill a hole in the screw to accept a cotter pin. I used a framing square to check the alignment at several points around the hub. you want it to retract the jaw. To hold the hub while drilling.ONT JAW c. you're ready to install the bands. For a solid connection. hub. I made a V-block. FRONT JAW FR. You can see this in Figure 11. Final Shaping. you can glue the threaded rod into the hub. and rod. You want to leave a little play here so the jaw doesn't bind. COTTER PIN TO SECURE ITIN SHAFT ShopN otes. a. The cotter pin allows you to separate the assembly for other work. You'll need to remove any epoxy squeezeout and smooth the wood hub flush with the bands. Adding the Rod. I started by knocking down the high spots on the hub. I fit the rod through two washers and the jaw and marked a point between the threads (Figure 11a). I used my bench vise for the task. you need to add a retaining pin. the hub will apply pressure to the front jaw.

ATTACH ONE CAP WITH SCREW OR PLA~T~~a1) (SEEDEfA .wrapping up The Vise The hard work is behind you at this stage in the game. The solution is to drill the stopped hole for the handle in a larger blank first. 120 . you can use one of the two methods illustrated in Figure 12a. This allows it to resist breaking and stay straight over time.. Figures 13 and 14 highlight the steps. A pla. This includes adding a handle to the hub. Another option is use the same trick that was used to shape the cap. but I want to cover a few of the details. You may need to sand the dowel slightly so that it slides easily back and forth in the hub. as you can see in Figure 14. tum to page 26. To attach the other one. For a step-by-step look at this process. The caps are made in a threestep process. you just need to wrap up a few dowel will slip light out of the hub when you let go. So I added a hardwood cap to each end. I did the work at the drill press. as shown in Figure 13. x 10") E HANDLE GLUE CAP ON ONE END SHAP CAP WITH FILE AND SANDPAPER NOTE: TURN TO PAGE 26 FOR DETAILS ON SHAPING CAP 36 ShopNotes No. HANDLE v a. and gathering some hardware to attach the vise to your workbench. (%"-DIA. From here on out. End Caps. The handle m the hub is where muscle power turns into clamping force. I wanted to make it possible to easily remove the handle from the hub down the road. Select a dowel with straight grain. The last step is to smooth out the cap and give it a gentle barrel shape. The trick is drilling a centered hole in such a small. I drove a screw through the end of the cap and into the end of the handle. round piece. Even Clamping. installing the lower screw. Here again. So I only glued one cap onto the handle. For the second step. The Handle. A shop-made nut on the lower screw acts as a stop so the jaws stay parallel to provide even clamping pressure. I made the handle from a length of white oak dowel to match the other parts of the vise.. I used a fence and a stop block to hold the blank in position while I drilled the hole with a Forstner bit. I replaced the Forstner bit with a hole saw (remove the center pilot bit) and drilled out the cap from the blank.

ACME NUT ~ (~. I made a larger wood nut for an easier grip. The lower screw is installed in the front jaw and slides through the hole in the rear jaw. The only difference is that this one is a bit larger. as you can see in Figure 15. The bracket on the back of the vise allows you to clamp the vise to almost any surface. I secured the lower screw in the front jaw with epoxy. The lower screw will slide in place in the rear 37 . it keeps the jaws parallel with each other. turn to page 27. the front jaw would rack out of parallel and provide uneven pressure."·10 x T' HEX BOLT a. Bench Hardware. And once again. Without the lower screw. I slipped a long bolt through the bracket and workbench and secured it with a washer and nut below the bench.23. But I also included a way to attach it to my workbench using a bench dog hole. However.. Then you're ready to put your new vise to work. it's a good idea to use a square to make sure it's perpendicular to the jaw. LOWER SHAFT SLIDES FREELY IN HOLE IN REAR JAW BRACKET WORKBENCH REAR JAW j BOLTSLIP5 IN DOG HOLE IN BENCH H (1" x:3"· :33/. But the relatively small size of the nut makes it difficult to grasp when you make adjustments. But just like the lower screw.[]) THREAD MAIN SCREW INTO CAPTURED NUT IN REAR JAW ~ "/. For more details on how to layout a hexagonal nut and cut it to size. as shown in Figure 15a. Stop Nut. The steel nut is glued into a counterbore in the larger nut. The key is the stop nut. you can thread the main screw along with the front jaw into the captured nut in the rear jaw.") BENCH NUT SIDE VIEW ShopN otes. and trim away the excess. Installing the Rod. With the rear jaw secured to the workbench. as illustrated in Figure 16b. LOWER SCREW The main. You could simply use a standard Acme threaded nut and a washer here. When set to match the thickness of the workpiece clamped in the vise. (\ a." x 2" ... as in Figures 16 and 16a. My answer is to inset the steel nut in a larger hardwood nut.rl. upper screw does most of the work in the vise. Just like the main screw and hub. the lower screw plays a critical part in the operation.You can slip a piece of plastic between the cap and handle.'6") STOP NUT G %".

There usually aren't that many mortises to make. Since the joint forms the foundation of many projects. You can save time and increase accuracy by marking the mortise length on all the parts at once.i.i. A mortising machine is capable of creating accurate mortises that require very little cleanup. I can create a perfectly centered mortise. From the layout. For the sides of the mortise. tips & tricks for Creating a rock-solid mortise and tenon joint is an essential woodworking skill. A marking gauge defines the width of the mortise and helps in setting up the mortiser. there are some tips and techniques you need to know to get top-notch results. Still. The lower left photo shows you a way to speed up the task of marking the ends of all the mortises with a pencil. 38 ShopNotes No. you can tum your attention to the mortising machine. Technique Perfect Mortises Create mortises quickly with a mortising machine and this no-fuss technique. So you can save yourself some work by getting it right from the start. You can see these guidelines in the drawing at the top of opposite page . This involves a little trial and error but it doesn't take much time. The goal here is to create a layout that matches the width of the chisel and bit I plan to use. . Set Up the Tool. Of the two parts. GEnINISIAR'ED Getting off on the right foot starts with a good layout I lay out the mortise location on each workpiece rather than setting up stops. One way to do that is to use a hollow chisel mortising machine. Following a few setup steps here can ease a lot of frustration. This way. But accurately adjusting a mortise is a lot more difficult. so . All At Once. Scribe the Cheeks. I prefer to use a marking gauge and mark from both sides. 120 .. That's because it's relatively easy to fine-tune the fit of a tenon. One of the main things is correctly setting up the bit and chisel.I I I I ' . The results will show in perfectly sized mortises. And the finely scored lines serve as a guide to set up the fence on the mortising machine later on. The Right Tool. I find that the mortise presents the greater challenge. the process goes pretty quickly.

and takes less effort. the joint will be strong and sturdy for years to corne. create a series of unconnected holes. The open space on SET UPPER "'Tn" 50CHI5EL JU5TCLEARS WORKPIECE ---- SETUP GUIDELINES FENCE LOCATE5 MORTI5E ON THICKNESS OF WORKPIECE LOWER cern. This also helps clear any packed chips from the bottom of the mortise. the bit is supported on all four sides during the first two steps. When paired with a well-fit tenon. The first step is to define the length of the mortise with a pair of holes. Finally. Making A Mortise. the pressure exerted in use can cause the parts to flex. ejects chips easier. This lets the chisel and bit cool down. If you're making a lot of mortises. You can see how this works in the box below. Final Pass. That can cause the chisel and bit to overheat and dull quickly. as in the far right photo. making overlapping cuts along the length of the mortise leaves one face of the chisel unsupported. It helps keep the bit from clogging and allows chips to be pulled out of the cut easier. For example. With this method. So the chisel tends to follow the path of least resistance and deflect Instead.It's important to let the bit do most of the work (detail 'b'). Just make sure the space between each hole is less than the width of the chisel (lower drawing). But there are still some finer points to talk about that will give you the best results. After completing the mortise. cutting mortises with a mortising machine creates a lot of heat. Keep It Cool. remove the waste between each hole. square mortises lies in a threestep process. This keeps the bit cooler. it's also a good idea to take some breaks. What you're left with is a smooth. CUT A HOLE AT EACH END OF THE MORTISE LAYOUT SECOND: STAGGER THE CUTS LEAVING A SMALL "BRIDGE" BETWEEN EACH HOLE j. On the third pass. you may find that the chisel leaves slight ridges along the walls. On the last pass. The Right Order. Like I mentioned earlier. A Little Cleanup. The first is to provide support to the bit and chisel throughout the process. The solution is to order the cuts so that the bit has "balanced" support in the workpiece and can't deflect."-DETERMINE5 DEPTH OF MORTISE LIFTERS ON 61T SHOULD BE EVEN OR SLIGHTLY PAST TIPS OF CHISEL FENCE SET CLAMP TO HOLD WORKPIECE AGAINST FENCE WHILE STILL ALLOWING SIDE-TO-SIDE MOVEMENT each side balances the resistance on the bit and prevents flexing. ShopN otes. This method keeps the bit on 39 . it may seem like making the actual mortise should be almost automatic. d three-step Mortise FIRST: The secret to making smooth. I like to apply dry spray lubricant to the chisel and bit periodically while I'm working. Make a final pass to clean up the sides. When this happens. This is shown in the upper drawing and main photo on the opposite page. I like to clean up the mortise with a series of plunges along the length of the mortise. complete the mortise with a pass to remove each bridge of waste left between the holes. In the second step. Although a hollow chisel and bit may seem pretty rigid. accurately sized mortise. To keep things running smoothly. two sides are supported by the walls of the mortise. 1 follow an alternating hole pattern. After taking all these measures. Supporting the Chisel.

as you can see in the left photo. I'll use a brad to drill a pilot hole. And for a list of even more accessories.Shop new twists on a BcHand rill Brace •• Dust off these two classic tools and put them to work in your shop. There are many other uses in today's shop for these original"cordless" drills. Some were originally designed for power drivers but work just as well in your brace or hand drill. You can usually find vintage braces and hand drills at yard sales or antique To avoid splitting narrow workpieces. ~)ONLINE ~EXTRAS To see more accessories for braces and hand • A brace and hand drill might be old-fashioned tools. HAND DRILL ACCESSORIES A hand drill gives you more control and "feel" than you can get with a powered drill. And not just for drilling holes. go to: ShopNotes. • Threaded Inserts. see the box at the bottom of the next page. A selfcentering bit (sometimes called a Vix bit) works incredibly well ShopNotes No. 120 . And with a few accessories. The first accessory I want to talk about is free. opposite page). go online to ShopNotes. Simply cut the head off of the brad and use the cut end as a drill bit. but I find myself putting them to use more often lately. opposite page). A brace and this driver are perfect for installing threaded inserts. Perfect Pilot Holes. It creates a pilot hole the perfect size wi thou t splitting the workpiece. Others adapt your brace to accept various drivers (refer to Sources on page 51). Centered Holes. you can expand its versatility. I find myself using a hand drill most often for drilling pilot holes when mounting hardware like hinges (lower left photo. Most of the uses you'll see here involve an adapter or accessory (right margin. But if you prefer a new tool.

_.\. page 51). And if the brace features Hex Drive Adapter. With a hex adapte~ you can use any %" hex driver bit. Threaded Inserts. Nuts & Bolts.. Drill Bit The bottom line is that just about any accessory made for a power drill will work with a hand drill or brace. Self-centering bits work great with your hand drill for drilling pilot holes.. Likewise. you can buy a new one (refer to Sources. It's a great opportunity to get more life out of these classic old tools. too. BRACE ACCESSORIES A hand brace is a great tool for applying plenty of torque when driving screws and other fasteners. Instead. But new ones give you a choice of a two-jaw or three-jaw chuck (see photos below). Vintage braces have a twojaw chuck.. you crank the brace to drive the insert in straight. But either style holds most accessories. The brace allows you to really crank down Self-Centering on the fastener. I'm never sure about the clutch setting on my power drill. f1 . It gives me reliable feedback on how much torque I've put on a fastener. The right photo below shows how this works. as shown in the left photo above. Easily control the depth of a countersink by using a hand drill. I use a brace. A brace works great for driving woodscrews. I was surprised at how easy it is to install a threaded insert using an insert driver chucked in a 41 . Countersinking. Countersink Drill Bit new or old Braces & Drills If you can't find a vintage tool. A two-jaw chuck was designed to hold bits with square. it's ideal in close quarters where you can't completely rotate the crank. Power Screwdriver.. ShopN otes. It's hard to set it to obtain the right depth. The main photo (opposite page) shows what I mean.. Countersinking. A similar tool is a socket adapter for driving and tightening lag screws. you can chuck a countersink bit in your hand drill to lightly chamfer or countersink a hole. tapered shanks (top two margin photos). and bolts (right photo above). You can apply downward pressure as ! Pilot Holes. a ratcheting mechanism. nuts. Hand drills have a three-jaw chuck. Use any hex driver bit to finesse screws tight without overdriving. in a hand drill and guarantees the hole will be centered in the mounting hole. . They close tight to hold small-diameter bits (upper right photo).

of the manufacturing technique used to create them. This makes it possible to produce long sections with a consistent profile. and resistant to twisting. And yet they remain light weight. It has also been used extensively in industrial applications. I can tell you that the anodized finish that is standard on all the extruded aluminum I've worked with is top notch. I feel that with the right jig or fixture almost anything is possible. Of course. you're already familiar with extruded aluminum. it's easy to do at the drill press with a standard twist bit.. ShopN otes No. square. I routinely cut the material at my table saw. They've become an integral part of my workshop and I use one or two in almost every project I build. In other words. the big advantage of aluminum is that it's very light. Several retail router table fences and many factorymade jigs use this material. It provides protection against corrosion. coupled with very tight tolerances in the manufacturing process.. Double. strong. it's hard to beat. and its easyto-clean surface looks great. it's durable. the aluminum is forced through a die. Another benefit of using aluminum parts is that they can be cut and drilled using the tools you already have in your shop. The technique also means that aluminum can be shaped to almost any conceivable design.. And if I need to drill a hole for one of the many connection options. For stability and ease of working. 42 . More than likely. or Triple? The basic extrusion shape can be built to any size you need. This design. Single. you know that it's not very hard and it bends quite easily. In that process. I've got to say. Those weaknesses are overcome by the solid engineering and design of the extrusions. Working. When building any project. I make most of my jigs from Baltic birch plywood. Finish. But lately I've been incorporating T-track and a few of the other types of slotted aluminum extrusions available for jig building. the material you use can largely determine the overall look or feel of the finished product. they're perfect for workshop jigs and fixtures. so far I'm pretty impressed. Properties. But if you've ever used aluminum bar stock. allow the finished products to be straight.Ex ruded A ml um • • Sometimes. 120 oug MATERIAL T-track and the other profiles shown in the left margin photos are called "extruded" because .

So when you purchase an extrusion. The possibilities go far beyond basic jigs. When considering a project..Connecting Hardware Corner gussett End fastener JOining strip ~ connector T-CHANNElS The profiles I found to be most useful in my shop are those that contain T-channels. Sizes. and even entire workstations can be assembled. And it can all be completed in a fraction of the time it would take with wood or especially welded steel. with just minimal care. It may just be exactly what you've been looking for. It's easy to build up the shape you need using simple connectors. odds are a website like 8020. The photos above show just a handful of options. Refer to Sources on page 51 for other contact will have it. 0. it's important to note that there are several different channel sizes available (%" and 5. ShopN otes. One of the things that make these T-channel profiles so useful is the variety of connecting hardware available. they have design resources available to help you design your project around what's available. Making a split fence is a breeze if you connect two extrusions using a third piece on top. The photos below and the main photo on the previous page show just a few ways that the profiles can be used. Bench Clamp. Supports. be sure to get the right size for your needs. . This is especially important if you're going to use the profiles with clamps or hardware that you already have on 43 . And if they don't. you can see three different examples. Easy Assembly.16" are most common). . This is just a sample of the many different configurations available.. enclosures. In Use. The hardware allows you to connect multiple profiles together in a number of configurations. I have been very satisfied when working with 80/20's team in the past.. Connections. . extruded aluminum will hold up to a lifetime of use. A short extrusion and a hold-down work together to provide support for a long board held in the face vise. This means you can build just about any jig or fixture you would ever need. And on top of all the other benefits. A square comer with clamps that slide in the track provides the perfect solution for assembling frames. The price is right and the products are sure to find a practical use in the shop. Hardware. If you take a look at the images in the left margin. Clamping Table. or tslots. If there is a specific profile you need.

Features. to finish and pad sanders. 44 ShopNotes No. a random orbit sander is tough to beat. Also high on my list of priorities is dust collection. pad. Compact size _____/ offers good balance and control for long sanding sessions . Some tasks. So here are the things I feel are important in a sander. Switching (and reusing) sanding disks is just so much more convenient than pressure-sensitive adhesive (PSA) disks. you can use that Cushioned top handle reduces vibration and improves comfort . It's small enough to use one handed but large enough to keep surfaces level (more on that later). can generate a lot of dust. up to belt sanders the size of a small car (almost). Dust Collection. I like to look for specific features. my suggestion is to get a 5" random orbit sander. I usually hesitate to recommend a specific brand or model. For someone new to woodworking. You'll see everything from small detail sanders. Instead. When it comes to buying your first sander. The Sanding Pad. the task of outfitting a shop with a good set of essential tools can be a daunting one. Power sanders are a good example of this dilemma. How do you choose which one to get? One Choice. _J • Dust-collection canister is good. 120 . Another thing I look for is a hook and loop pad. This tool provides a good balance of features to tackle all kinds of tasks. And once you get an idea of its capabilities and limitations. like flattening a panel. but a shop vacuum hookup is better I'm often asked for my advice on buying particular tools. information to guide your decision for buying other sanders. I look for a sander with a 5"-dia.When it comes to a jack-of-all-trades power tool. Like I mentioned before. A trip down the tool aisle of any home center offers a range of sanders.A Hook & Loop. This method of attaching sanding disks is fast and easy and allows you to reuse the disks. What can make it even harder is that toolmakers offer a new or redesigned product every year or two. Note: You can buy hook and loop replacement pads for most PSA sanders. Not Brands. Because tool models are always changing.

I think the reason is it's tempting to think the power of the machine allows you to skip grits and save even more time. I use my sander to flatten the panel. FLATTENING -41 Hardworking. I keep a stack of 80. you can find one for almost every step of building a project. It won't. Once the finish goes on a project it doesn't mean you have to put your sander away. The problem is damps and bench dogs can get in the way and leave marks. fasting-cutting disks.. wetdry disks and thick buffing pads level and polish film finishes. too. The job most people associate with a random orbit sander is smoothing a workpiece to prepare it for finish. you can achieve a glass-smooth finish. Besides being annoying. do. For this. Comfort. With fine disks (320-grit and up).to 150-. The solution is to use rubber mats like you see 220-grit to smooth out assemblies and prepare a workpiece for finish. Although all sanders come with some kind of filter. They're cushioned to prevent damage and make it easy to reposition a workpiece for better access./ Keeping it out of the air (and my lungs) is important. ShopN otes. then sand the whole panel to create an even scratch pattern. Smoothing. this is the most subjective "feature. I concentrate on the high spots first. abrasive pads. it can lead to scratches and . Low-cost pads keep your workpiece in place. As you can see. This allows you to sand a frame and panel without leaving deep scratches (photo at right). Flattening. ! Smooth & Easy. I've actually found some timesaving uses for mine with specialty disks. Where a random orbit sander shines is smoothing cross-grain Joints. as you can see in the upper right photo. and 220-grit disks. In The Finish Room. 100-grit) make quick work of leveling joims and panels. Use sanding disks ranging from 120. In fact. 45 • Sanding Pad. you can use your random orbit sander to save time and get better-looking projects without spending a lot of money. I look for sanders that offer easy hookup to a shop vacuum for more effective collection. a sander's Best Friend . Finally. Some sanders offer two hand positions: a top-mounted handle or a center-body grip. But it's easy to end up with noticeable swirl marks once the finish goes on. Extra-fine.and 100-grit disks. The secret is to be bold and use coarse. and buffing pads. It's best to be methodical and step from 120." You'll need to get your hands on several models to find out which one is a good fit. Finishing. Abrasive pads are great for buffing out oil finishes on large surfaces. The force of a spinning disk can cause a workpiece to slide around on your benchtop. Admittedly. with the right disks. Coarse disks (80. SANDING DISKS What makes a random orbit sander so versatile is the range of rusks you can use. A glued-up panel usually has an uneven joint or two. I look for a sander that feels comfortable.

And each part of the joint is a pretty basic table saw cut. there's a Simple way to conceal the groove. as you can see in the photos along the top of these pages. In addition to a strong connection. the pieces self-align during assembly. One of the first things I think about when I start building a cabinet is the Joinery I'll use. A Little Twist. This joint is THICKNESS Of TOP CASE SIDE JOINT 5ASIC5 CASE TOP often overlooked when building cabinets. you'll see I added an extra step to the process. and how difficult the joint is to create. you can get started on making it. It's a minor twist that makes a big difference in how the completed joint looks. The reason is the groove that captures the case back is exposed at the ends. As I mentioned earlier. This means the groove for the back is concealed by the inside face of the top and bottom to create a clean joint line. cutting this joint is a simple process at the table saw that combines a few straightforward cuts. If you take a closer look at the drawing and detail . TIle tongue and dado joint is a good choice. These provide support for the workpiece and make getting accurate cuts a breeze. And these gaps may be visible in the finished project. as you can see in the drawing below. Before getting started. That begins with the dado TOP VIEW DADO ACCEPTS TONGUE CUT ---~ ON END Of TOP CASE SIDE GROOVE FOR BACK PANEL ShopNotes No. Orientation. There's one more thing to emphasize. To take advantage of the mechanical strength of the joint. There's a shallow rabbet cut on the end of the case sides along with the dado. appearance. 120 . A few of the things I weigh are the strength. below. Thankfully. CUTTING THE JOINERY Now that you know how the joint works.Table Saw G hidden JOint • Use this easy-to-make joint to build cabinets and cases that will last a lifetime . I like to cut the joint in a specific order. The tongue on one piece locks into a dado in the other. you'll want to make sure to cut the tongues on the loadbearing (horizontal) pieces and the dadoes on the vertical parts. I attached an auxiliary fence to both the rip fence and miter gauge.

Then make the groove in a few passes (drawing below). To get the setup right. Ilike to use one of the workpieces as a gauge to set the rip fence location. Dado First.. CUI GROOVE WIIH 5lANDARD BLADE IN 5EVERAL PASSES To get a snug fit... FROM 5HIFTING .. ~ \ 'i VIEW I END ShopN otes.. Then cutting the matching tongues. you can cut a groove for the case back.. Finally.. The result is a strong. The second step is to lower the blade and cut the rabbet. the case is ready for assembly. Set the blade height a little low so you can sneak up on the fit through a series of test cuts. TONGUE SHOULD EQUAL 51ZE OF DADO IN SIDE . as shown in the main photo on the previous page. Sneak up on the size of the tongue for a snug fit in the dado. The goal is to end up with the side flush with the mating piece. Gluing up the case is quick and easy. great-looking cabinet. Lower the bfade and nibbfe away the waste at the end of the case sides. So the distance from the outside edge of the saw blade to the fence should match the thickness of the top (or bottom). The first step is to cut a dado near each end of the top and bottom of both. Case top The tinaf step is cutting a groove to accept the case back ./' SANDPAPER ON . '-.. AUX. The reason I use this approach is that it's easier to tweak the size of the tongue for a snug fit than it is to adjust the dado.'. ({ . . r-- '----. Wrapping It Up. \ :::. ._l_. Then. The other half of the joint is the tongue cut on each end of the top and bottom . The Rabbet. Most of the time. I use 114" plywood for the back. If 47 Case Side I. FENCE PREVENTS' DAMAGE 10 RIP FENCE. But this amount will also equal the depth of the groove for the back So you want to remove enough to allow for a solid connection there (about %"). as in the upper right photo. Now.~ !41J '. .:. Once the back is cut to size. Tongue. Rabbet. replace the dado blade with a standard blade. FROM DADO BLADE . The important point to note here is the location of the dado. MilER FENCE KEEPS WORKPIECE.. The Tongue. This is shown in the upper left photo and drawing. This step is pretty easy. CASE fOP and rabbet on the sides. The depth of the groove should match (or be slightly less than) the depth of the rabbet in the second step. All you're doing is cutting a rabbet. Start with the bfade set low. The amount of material you remove here isn't critical.

you'll want to consider the type of work you'll be doing. Updated features jazz up this essential shop tool. but now there are three.) Of course. Most knives incorporate a method for quickly removing the blade. it's more compact and easier to tuck into your pocket to keep close at hand. (You won't likely find these blade options in the mini or medium size. ShopNotes No. Belt Clip. It's served me well over the years. 120 ~u~ 48 . Three Sizes. Blade Options. you'll find a range of knife sizes that accept these blades. As you can see in the box on the opposite page. Like a Pocket Knife.) Handle Comfort.. I've had the same old Stanley utility knife for decades. It used to be that there was only one standard size of utility blade. But that old knife was getting a little beat up.J Standard Blade . Instead of the traditional type of knife with a blade that retracts into the handle. But there is more to a blade than just the size. \'f2J ~ Stainless steel body hook compromise between the mini and standard blades. you'll find a large selection of blade designs. These include special coatings or materials for durability to variations in the shape of the cutting edge for specialized tasks. One of the first things you'll notice when shopping for a new utility knife is the basic design. You can see the difference in the blade sizes in the photo at right. Knives that use the medium blade are a nice / . so I headed out to look for a replacement..ct package . The other knives you see here all use a standard blade. The handy belt clip means you'll be less likely to misplace your knife. When choosing a knife.Gear I cutting edge U ility K ·ves knife and blade make accidentally.L_:_ J '--_.. (They're shown actual size. Plus. The blade locks open to prevent it from closing High-impact plastic Blade release ~for '_ _ • a compa. You might be surprised at the variety of knife styles available.. I want to show you a few of them. Push-Button Release. these new styles fold like a pocket knife. A "mini" knife (photo above) fits nicely in your apron or pants pocket. plus talk about ways you can upgrade your old utility knife. Another thing to take into consideration as you're shopping is the com.

bi-metal (middle) and carbide (bottom). Hooked blades make cutting roofing . • Special Hooks.. !! This means swapping _. it's a matter of choosing which features are most useful.. It's the most compact knife I've found that uses a standard blade... The Shark and Milwaukee knives shown in the photos above fill the bill in this A serrated blade (top) stays. From there on out. home center. The slim style makes it ideal for your pocket. This makes it easy to slice through string. a larger. . these knives feature a button or lever to release the blade. as you can see in the margin photo on the opposite page. Most of them include a belt clip.material like shingles and felt underlayment an easy task.. You can find them at a local hardware store. Plus. The two knives shown at the top of the page go above and beyond in the feature department. sharper longer to slice easily through a variety of materials. worn-out knife.Button retracts blade Handle release button Blade Small gut hook . They also work great for cutting through carpeting. take a look at the Gerber knife below. Blades with rounded comers are designed to safely open cardboard packages. drop-down compartment in the "belly" of the Shark for storing extra blades. The built-in wirestripper and crimper in the Shark knife comes in handy for wiring jobs around the house and shop.l. Metal Types. there's a handy.. or Amazon. out a dull blade for a new one is a snap. The built-in hook uses the blade's edge (when folded) for· cutting string and strapping. Multitasking. It comes in two versions for different ranges of wire .____ Standard blade . Unlike myoId knife that required disassembly to change the blade. For occasional use. As you can see. It's worth taking the time to shop around for a replacement for that old./ If you're looking for style and function. o~ . Multi·Function. This unique and versatile knife doubles as a handy wire stripper. Another thing I really like is the quick-release blade removal. upgraded Blades '--_ '-. If you're going to be doing a lot of cutting over an extended period. Handy Size. 49 ~~ Stainless steel makes fora durable deSign . fort of the handle. • Tips & Serrated.. too. The eye" of the Shark releases the blade for quick replacement. ShopNotes. you can see a lot of features on these knives that go beyond the cutting edge.. Unique Features. Many Choices. A few of the options include titanium coating (top). Looking at the photos. 4. Hooked. more rounded handle will be more comfortable in your hands. there's quite a range of knives to choose from. The sliding button on the tail end of the Shark releases the handle for the wire strippers. The Milwaukee and Irwin knives include a gut hook. Stepping up to a high-quality blade can reduce the number of blade changes. any of the knives will do the job.

IX this can be an advantage for a couple of reasons. Most times when cutting material with a circular saw.i. the majority of the saw's weight (around 10 lbs. right-handers grip the saw with their right hand and hold on to the workpiece with their left hand as in the left photo below. But you'll have to arrange the setup with the waste extending out to the left and watch out for flying sawdust. putting the blade to the left of the motor offers a better view of the cut. The standard circular saw design has the blade mounted on the right side of the motor. having the motor in between the blade and your body also means that sawdust and chips are less likely to end up in your pockets. 4 Circular saws are handy for a number of tasks and the location of the blade comes down to two main factors: weight distribution and sight line. Positioning the blade to the left of the motor allows you to see the cut line. . while others have it on the left. To get around this problem.questions from Our Readers . What's the reason for this? • right. the saw is unlikely to tip to the right. You'll find it's easy to adapt to either a right or left-handed type. With the motor on the left side of the blade. left-hand ~ Left-Handed. the location of the blade has to do with how you make your cuts. you'll need to take the location of the blade into consideration when using an edge guide to break down sheet goods. But the drawback to this arrangement is that you can't see the cut line very well. Plus. Right-Handed. What it really comes down to is choosing the saw that feels most comfortable to you. which can potentially spoil the cut.. the waste to be cut off typically extends to the right of the saw and is unsupported from below. A right-handed saw keeps the bulk of the saws weight closer to your body for easier control during the cut.. Likewise. ..VS. some manufacturers make circular saws with the blade to the left of the motor. Kevin Jurica Houston. this makes it much easier to see the cut line. For right-banders. Sometimes referred to as right-handed and left-handed saws. If you're right-handed. If the workpiece is positioned on sawhorses or a worksurface. Better Balance.) is centered on your body and supported by the workpiece. You can see an example of this in the right photo. This means that when you finish the cut. eire lar Saws I've noticed that some circular saws have the blade on the right side of the motor. Sight Line. You've probably noticed that the blade on most circular saws is mounted on the right side of the motor. Although not as common. .

Inc. Amana 1/2". Each volume includes a year of issues. .40) 50J03.01 47B01. take a look at the sources listed to Order Yours Today! 51 . .50 50}03. T-Slot Profiles (p. And they ship nationwide..48) 319S5 TOOL TOTE (p. Their customer service representatives are available for your caUs from Sam .com McMaster·Carr 630-600-3600 mcmaster.oem Woodcraft 800·225·1153 woodcraft.01 Woodsmith Store 800·444·7527 Rockler 800·279-4441 rockler.Q2 50}05.01 Adapter 50J61.07 SHARPENING TRAY • Lee Valley 8000x Waterstone 4000x Waterstone 1000x Waterstone (p.. Regular Price $119.05 LATHE WORKSTATION • RockIer 5. B0009ENCUW Bi-Metal Blades ... . 260·248·8030 8020.30) 98935A748 94815Alll 98029A038 98935A724 94S15AIOS 9S029A035 91236A861 93S27A259 9833SA230 • TSLOTSlFutura Industries Slotted Extrusions Vades 80/20. plus a table of contents and a handy SANDING DISKS • Woodsmith Store Buffing Pads • RockIer Abrasive Pads (p. .24) Router Bit World 888·688-2260 routerbitworld.ES • 80/20. (p.Spm Central Tune. B0020RNEAA HARDBOUND VOLUMES Get all 4 hardbound volumes of ShopNotes (Volumes 16 through 19).05 OSM15.44) 212400 20106 UTILITY KNIVES • Lowe's (p. • Rockler Abrasive Cleaning Stick . • Router Bit World Amana Z" Dovetail Bit. The Woodsmith Store in Des Moines.01 . Bit DRILL ACCESSORIES • Lee Valley %"-20 Insert Driver o/r6" -18 Insert Driver Two-Jaw Brace Three-Jaw Brace ]4" Hex Brace Adapter. $89.16"-18 Levelers (p.06 Hand Drill .12) 45S0S 57190 Mini Lockbac1cKnife • Amazon.16"-18 Through Knob 5. 800-824·2049 tslots.Sources Most of the materials and supplies you'll need to build the projects are available at hardware stores or home centers. 469S7 MAIL ORDER SOURCES • Garrett Wade Hand Drill Socket Brace 89B04. You'll find each part number listed by the company name. Lowe's LeeVaUey 800·871-8158 leevaUey.. They carry many of the hardware items used in our projects..eom TSWTS/Futura Garrett Wade 800-221·2942 garrettwade ..80 Subscriber Discount Price Individual volumes also available.03 T-CHANNEL PROFIL. Monday through Friday. See the right margin for contact information.28) OSM15. .52 50}05 . For specific products or hard-to-find items. Iowa is an authorized Rockier dealer.. 50T 61.42) Varies BENCH VISE • McMaster-Carr 1" -6 Acme Rod 1" -6 Acme Nut 1" Washer %"-8 Acme Rod %"-8 Acme Nut %" Washer %"-10" Hex Bolt %"-10" Hex Nut Cotter Pin (p. (p. 2SK04. . .Rad. .50 SAVE OVER $30 FREESHIPPING on your entire orelerl (Offer expires 12/31/2011) or Call 1-800-444-7527 Go to ShopNotes.18) 34121 31056 Gerber Knife Shark Knife Irwin Knife MilwauTcee Knife Carbide Blades BOO2RILCLY B001670UH4 B004F7QCSS B003IS5GT6 THICKNESS SANDING • Lee Valley 3" Sanding Drum .05 Self-Centering Bits Varies Socket B005CJNJOW Serrated Blades BOOOGIIRS8 Titanium Blades .

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