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0

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seu swing

urt, '£.Ii';J yaJ lIIJ!:l IJJ !uel 'GastronomiaJ vlnhos,. pessoas, arte, Imobllla"a emulto malsl

_P!U~,HJJ ~Yl.fJ3~ jJ3:DpJS'; P'!:)PE:1f!Y~

Essential

S

MPLING THE CR ATIONS OF LEGENDARY

CAT LAN CHEF FERRAN

ADRIA AT THE EL BULLI

HOT·

HI\CTEI

DA BE AZUZA NEAR SE TLL
BENAZUZA, PERTO DE

NO EL BULLI HOTEL HACIENDA

SEVILHA FOMOS PROVAR AS CRIAt;OES

DO LE -DAR 10 CHEF

CATALAO FERRAN ADRIA.
Il Xl PATRICK STUART

PHOT05 PAUL BERNHARDT

he name EI 1311JIi. or more precisely that Catalan chef Ferran AJriil, is ,I Ihing legend ill international culinary circles. '0111(' would say 1](' is the most inllucnriul

or

lodny however, rho e
distance

0]'

LIS LI

within striking
hotel of exqui-

of '(,1Ie can \ isit

unci imaginative chef alive; others milY find his radical approach to gourmet food ,1 'li(1le too much to swallow. BL!t lor anyone with an active interest in modem cuisine, .1\ isil In the 3-Slar i\ 1ichelin EI Bulli rcstnurant near Barcelona is ~I 1\,lc('calike once in a lil-('Limc experience. The bad news IS that even Ir cosl and disran ('I.; are not enough 10 put you off. I here is the issue of s('(uring it reservation. Last year the restaurant received over 30U.000 table requests hUl was able to honour onl;. eight thousu nd. U nul recently the rood or E I Hilil i, with irs _~O-plu~ course la,{ing menus and dishes .I~ weird as [oic gril~ iCl' Cre,1Il1 and rernpura ruSt' petals. W,l~ Ihe reserve unl} uf those lorumute enough to visit the restuurum itself,

sire charm where Adria's dishes are recreated (0 perfection. The hotel is l lac iendn Ik 11il/UZI1, rchranded in 20()2 as El Rulli Ilotel Hacianda Benazuza \, hell Al:ria took river ils management. Long regarded <l.:. one olt he finest hotels ill Spain, till' Hacienda dates back to \ loorish limes <I nd has P,l sed through the hands of 1"0 ralty and nobility

over the cvnturic-, laking its name hom the Counts BeIlOl/Uz,,_ Originally opened as II Iu.\tJt:-' hotc] ill 1QQ2. the property has been

or

lenda viva nos crculos qastrcnornkos lntcrna donais. f fa quem diga que ele e 0 mals inlluenre e imaqlnauvo chef VIVO, e quem consldcre Que 11 sua abordagem radical a gastronomia gourmet e um bocado dlricil de engoli!. Mas, para alouern que se interesse verdadeira· mente pela gastronomia rnoderna, uma vistra ao restaurant EI Buill, de (res estretas no gUia Michelin, em Barcelona, uma experienoa 11nie-3 na Vida. As mas notkias sao que mesmo que 0

O

nome [I. Bulli ou, melhor dizendo, 0

do chef cstalao Ferran Adria. e uma

e

preco e a dlstflOcia

IlaO

selarn sufklerues para nos

immucu

kltdr

maintained

and todny modern

fazer cesisiir aiflda ternos 0 problema ddS reservas, Du rente 0 ano oasseco,o rests urante rcccceu
mats de 300 000 pedidos de reserve de apenas conseguiu garantir oito mil.

or

l'(lmforts blend with ancien: arrhitecinrc. original antiques anu 11I~h MoorishAndal LIS ian g<l rclrn s, The ambience 01 the hOld is at once exclusiv t' bUI somehow cqulllI~ rcla_wd, [)('spil ' the gnmckur and opulence the ~~

mesa

mas

or

Ate ha pouco tempo a com ida do EI Bu Iii.corn as seus menus de degusta~ao de mas de uinta prams, rao esrrenhos como gelado de foie gras e
remoura de oetalas de rosa. estevam apenas ....

EssentialGourm

,.,. reservados para

OS

poucos atonunados que

Este hotel eo Hacienda BenaZUlil.rebaptlzado, em 2002. quando Adria se tornou responsavel pela sua gestae, com a nome de £1 Bulli Holel Hacienda BenazuZiJ. Ha rnuito considerado como um dos rnelhores hOlels escenhels, 0 Hacienda, rujo nome vern dos Condes de Benazuza.data da epocs dos Mouros e. ao longo dos seculos, passou pelas rnaos da realeza e da nobreza.lnaugurado
em 1992 como hotel de luxo, tem sldo escrupulosamente mantldo e, hajl'" em dla os conlortos da

pudessern ir ao re~taLirante.Mas hoje, no entanto, quem estiver pella de Sevilha, podera deslocar-se a urn hotel de requlorado charms no qual os prates de Adria sao recriados na perfeiQio.

era modema conjugam-se com a arquitectura antiga, as antiguidades genuin<ls e as luxuriantes jardins mouriscos. ~,.

~... surround: ng~ there is no air of For!T1fli ity. The staFf are discreet, pol ill' arid jus I rriendiI' enough. Nobody seems to be hurrying, something probably owed to the Fact that the hotel has one of the highest staff to guest ratios of any hotel in Europe with just 44 rooms and over I00 sta If The sralf themselves are mostly local Andaiucians, the majority olwhorn have long served at the hotel under its previous managernent. But it is the young blood, handpicked hy Adri~ and shipped in directly from Catalonia where they served with him at EI Bulli who are propelling the hotel to new hllights Resident manager Daniel Busturia, executive chef I~afael Morales and head sommelier Rut Cotroneo embody the EI Rulli philosophv of perfectionism, crealiv.ity and (he desire not only to please but surprise. What Adria has set our to do is La c:1rIY ,hi. concept that has made him Famous in the restaurant world through [0 a hotel. with Hacienda Benazuza being the beginning EI Bulli Hotels & Resorts. Derails such as canopied beds under the palm trees in the gardens and <In urnazing breakfast consisting of ten courses served to the table set

or

Hacienda Benazuza

apart

as a hotel,

But

arguably the main attraction today is the chance to experience EI Bulli cuisine, Execulive chef' Rafael Murales was one ofLhc head cooks at 121Bulli where he worked alongside Ad ri i'l for six years. H is brief For
U1C

ria was <IS simple

hacienda's gnurm('t restaurant La Alqueas iL W<lS challenging: ,.,.

.i. I~U.ClITIVl CII "I IHF'\l1. ~IOII.'I..~S,

<II '1,\jIc.

Ill' 1'11.~lS 1ll\U!O\,ER'IIIE

INNEIICOL'IIIUlIIl

.

.... 0 rnbiente do hotel par urn lado, selecto mas, por outre. voruace. Apesar da grandiosidade e opulencia das suas lnstalacces nao 51."

a

e,

senre no er nenhum tipo de rerma lisma. Os funconarlos sao dscretos, bem-ecucados e simpaticos quanta baste. Ninguem parece tor pressa o Que talvez se deva ao fano de a hotel apresentar urn dos rnais altos ratios funcionarioslh6spedes da Europa, com 44 quartos para 1ODfunciooarios, Os functonarics sao quase to os andeluzes I" a grande maioria ja vem de anteriores admin15-

rracoes Mas If: 0 sanque jovem, pessoalrnente recrurado par Ferran Adria na Catalunha, onde (rabalhararn sob as sua, omens no EI Buill, que tem impulsionado 0 hotel a rnais altos voos. 0 gerente residenle Da nipl Busruriao chef eXPCl![IVa Rafael Morales e n primeira escancao Rut Cotroneo tocorporarn a mosofia perfecdonista do EI Bulli,a crialividade

eo deseio nao >0 de agradar, como tarobern de surpreender,

o que

Ferran Adria se propos Iazer fOi imple-

rnentar 0 conceito Que 0 tornou farnoso no rnundo da gastronomia atraves de Urn hotel. sendo 0 Hacienda Benazuza a inicio do EI Bulli llotels & Resorts. Porrnenores como camas de dassel sob as palrnelres dos jardins o urn soberbo

.i. nIiIlOn.L~1

11+.lfir

III'N()II";

tn ron rnrm

OI~~"r!'1"

1.) rFHUF'< 1 ~UIVK'<,

peqcenc-alrroco de del prates servco a mesa, fazem do Hacienda Benazuza urn rnundo a parte
em termos de hotelaria, Mas a sua maier a rac<;:lio talvez seja a oportuniaade de provar a gasrronornia EI Bulli. o chef executlvo Rafael Morales foi um cos cozinheiros chefe no EI Bulli. onde rrabalhou com Adria ourarue sets anos, As mstrucoes que gourmet

10 replicate lh -' [arnous eli hes of EI Bulli. The unnsiuon From a cia ical gourmet restaurant W roday's gastronomically challenging eatery didn't happen overnight though, Tasting menus wert' slowly introduced and lillie hy liulc the entire menu was translorrncd. 101 surprisingly, I1lJny of [he restnurnnt's longst muing ciiems sh unncd the lI1ot/a11isIIIOthat was laking vcr their lavourite restaurant and have since [allen by the way. ....

But as word got out thaI EI Bulli \I, sin town. the: rcstuurunt 'mel the hotel established a whole new market and recognition soon followed with the award or one 1\lkhulin star. Diners at La Alqucria can Opl fDr eirher a la carte or the Lasling menu but while all dishes lire Adl'i~':; creatiuns, it is the laucr that provides F(11' taste a \I hal it is at tunlly like 10 eat at EI Bulli: meal at El Bull i IlSl'if. unless by special arr •mgcrncru. would consist

recebeu quando tornou coma do resraurante do Hacienda, 0 La Alquaria, forilm tao

or

simples como desafianres; replicar os farnosos prates do FI Bull" No entanto, esta transforrnacso de resraurante oassco em local gaslronomlC<lmente provocador nao acont ceu de urn dia
oara ooutro .....

of the

30-plus lasting

m enu rna le lip

.. ~

EssentialGounnet

•• erulr ly uf dishes crea leu during the current year. At La Alqueria on Lilt' other hand, the menu is made Lip I <1 selection til' E1Bulli's most famous dishes, each one with its date 01' creation alongside the menu description and spanning the last ten years up to 2003, Man) these dishes, such as deep Fried rabbit car with romaric herbs, are Iittle more than a ingl mouthful: others uch as omelet . urpri e f f ie grs sand arti 'hoke (tepid mouss of Fnk ~Tns 'O

ring un artichoke sorbet) 'Ire more suhst .. ntial,
\!orkil\g through lht: menu i~ a sensory extravaganza Inslillg Qt least th rcc ho u rs Onc cl ish t ha t resembles lagl' late 11(' tran s pi res to he lashion~d not [rom P;1S[:l but Irom veal gelatin sped811y treated so as not to melt when warmed. noihcr arrives at Lhe table appearillg LO he a till of" lrnnian caviar but. tamped nver with the text "irnitauon IBulli". This is in fa l. mall hall. of water melon juice magicallytransformed to look and feci like caviar hut bursting ill the mouth wilh the sweeL· ness or the rrLl i[, Adri~'s ingenious cul inm)' creations have ofLen been dubbed as alchemy (['rom which La Alqueria restaurant takes its name) but behind the cene in the kitchen it is as much about ience as it is magic. her ~lorak'S presides over his team with a cool and cornrns nding demeanor, lcndinz his hand here and there LO perfect presentation, In one corner, giant test III bes are suspended above a bowl oj' [iquid solution where L11C water melon juice is turner] into "caviar": in another, a dish is prepared with Adria's natodeus "room", In aerated sauce made with 1\ nitrous oxide siphon (as used For whipped cream). This hiler technique has been widely mimicked, along with many Adria's other creation, by chefs all ov 'f the world But IVhaL to drink wuh such wclrd and wonderful food? With II variety [lavour and textures making up the tasting menu, the ta sk of S0I11111e Iier is not I (0 be ra kc n liently. Enter Rut Cotroneo, one of the Few female scrnrnellers in Spainl r lavi Ilg previously worked as a sommelier at El Bulli 3nd some of Madrid' top restaurant', Rut is more than familiar with the food and endeav r t man) rh rn nu with modern pani h wines and ulTers a degustation served by the glass to accompnny the 30 or so courses. All in all. .1 mCHI ~1l La Alquena is someIhing that only those wid, a penchant for gourmet fond and a slightly adventurous spirit will truly enjuy, For those not inclined to inclul!7c in such gastronomic endeavors however, there is n 11 'ed for dcsps lr. The poolide Alb r a r staurant s rves lun h with

or

.... Os menus de degusta~o forarn sendo inrrodu zidos poueo a poueo atea total aheracaodaemenra Claro que muitos dos dentes rnz is fit~is do resraura nre ficaram chocados com 0 moderrusmo que estava a lnvedlr 0 seu restaurante prcferido e forarn-no abandonando. Contudo, depressa se espalhou a noticia de que 0 EI Bulli tinha aberto e o restaurante e
0

rnais famosos do EI Buill, carla urn deles com a da a de criat;ao junto da descricao do menue que
oatarn dos ullimos dec enos are 2003. Muitos destes prams, como a orelha de

roe-

hotel foram estabelecendo um

novo rnercado, a que rapidamente se seguiu a atribuit;iio de uma estrela do Mkhelin. Os cornensats do La Alqueria podem optar pela ementa a carra ou pelo menu de dequstacao mas, como todos os prates sao cnacoes de Adria, e ele quem decide a que 5e ira confeccionar. Uma refeic;:ao no proprio EI Bulli, exceptuando algum acordo especlal.conslsre de um menu de degustacao de mals de 30 prates, todos eles criados

lho frita com ervas aromatkas, sao apenas uma pequena dose nao maior que uma colherada;outlOS, como a orneleta surpresa de fole gras e aka chofras (mousse lepida de fOle qras sobre sorvere de alcachofra) sao rnais 5ubslanciais.lr avany1ndo no menu e uma extravagancia sensonal que dura pelo menos tres horas. Diz-se que um ora 0 parecido (om tagliatelle nao e rnassa mas sim gel(l ina de veado especlalmente tratada para nao derreter quando aquedda. Dutro vem a mesa como uma ta<;ade caviar lrarnano, com 0 carimbo "imi[0<;030 elBulli", mas, de facto, sao bollnhas de sumo de melancls confeccionadas, como que par magla, para se parecerern com caviar, mas que exptodem na boca com a docura da ruta.••

durante esse ano. Por outre lado, no Alquerla, a ementa cornpoe-se de uma seleo;o3o dos prates

or

or

Chef

l

lol'al

5'S

own

lnterpretaticns

01'

Andalucian Fare and LH Aba arfa serves

....

EssentialGourmet

BAI'JlhL MORAl KrrClI~. N 1\T

S ANI} IllS TEM1 ,IT WORK IN

·",L

Meu. 'IlIA DEN\Zl!'l. I \NO \ SEU:, 11'"

or EL I'~UI DI'>II""-

~~ traditional local tnpas of outstanding quality. And f(lr afictonados of Andalucia's fabulous jamon pata negro (cured ham' Lh~' hou ..! employs one of pain's top "cortadores cit' jarnon" (ham cutters). After all, there's nothing like a plate of p:lla negra and a glass
of chilled fino to remind us that. despite the Illoaernismos of Adriil's food, WI! fire most dclirurely in Illl' heart of ,\nJulcw .•

.... As engenho>3s aia<;6es culinarias de Adria jil tern sldo consideradas alquimia (de onde 0 La Alqueria rei ira 0 nome), mas nos bastldores na cozinha trata-se mais de ciencia do que de magia. chef Morales cornanda a sua. eouipa de forma calma e val dando 0 seu toque para aperfekoer a apresentacao. Nurn dos cantos, gigantescos tubas de ensaio estao suspenso> sabre urns raca com urn Irq uido onde a sumo de melancia se rransforrna em "caviar". Num Dutro, prepara-S€ urn prate com a famosa "espurna" de Adria, urn molho gaseificado reno com urn 5ifiio de gas carbcrucc (como as usados para bater natasj.Esta tecnlce.tel como muitas outras cria<;oes de Adria, tern sldo amplamente copiada par chefes de todo a mundo. Mas, com que bebida acompanhar tao estranha e maravilhosa com ida? Com uma variedade de sabores e tsxturas do nivel do menu de degusta~ao. a tarefa do escancao neo deve ser encarada com leviandade. E al entia R1.,Il otroneo. C uma das poucas mulheres €scanr;ao em Espan hal Tendo ja trabalhado como escancao no EI Bulti e nalquns dos mais importantes resraurantes madrilenos, Rut esta basranre familia rizada com a comida e acornpanha 0 menu com vinhos espanhols modern OS, oferecendo uma degusta.r;ao"a copo' para os 30 au mais prates servldos, Resumindo, uma refei~o no La Alqueria alga que £6 as inrerassados em comida gourmet com espulto avemureiro poderao aprecar

a

e

devidamente. Mas, quem nao esteia indirado para estes eventvras gastron6micas, nao deve desesperar.Junro da piscina 0 restauranre Alberca serve elrnocos confeccionados pelo chef Morales segundo as suas tnterpretacoes muito proprlas da (ozinha andaluza, e 0 La Abacaria serve tapas tradicionais de soberba quafidade. E. para as aficionados do fabuloso presunto Pala Negra andaluz.o hotel utiliza um dos mais lmportentes cortadores de presunro espanh6is. Porq ue, no fim de contas, nada como urn prate de Pata Negra 0' urn capo de fino gelado para nao nos fazer esquecer que, apesar dos modemismos da cornida de Adria" esrarnos no cora~ao da Anda!uzia.1
\1''11 ss!miill·.lgdrY~(Om ~ 14

tn ron rnrm

OI~~"r!'1"

1.) rFHUF'< 1 ~UIVK'<,

peqcenc-alrroco de del prates servco a mesa, fazem do Hacienda Benazuza urn rnundo a parte
em termos de hotelaria, Mas a sua maier a rac<;:lio talvez seja a oportuniaade de provar a gasrronornia EI Bulli. o chef executlvo Rafael Morales foi um cos cozinheiros chefe no EI Bulli. onde rrabalhou com Adria ourarue sets anos, As mstrucoes que gourmet

10 replicate lh -' [arnous eli hes of EI Bulli. The unnsiuon From a cia ical gourmet restaurant W roday's gastronomically challenging eatery didn't happen overnight though, Tasting menus wert' slowly introduced and lillie hy liulc the entire menu was translorrncd. 101 surprisingly, I1lJny of [he restnurnnt's longst muing ciiems sh unncd the lI1ot/a11isIIIOthat was laking vcr their lavourite restaurant and have since [allen by the way. ....

But as word got out thaI EI Bulli \I, sin town. the: rcstuurunt 'mel the hotel established a whole new market and recognition soon followed with the award or one 1\lkhulin star. Diners at La Alqucria can Opl fDr eirher a la carte or the Lasling menu but while all dishes lire Adl'i~':; creatiuns, it is the laucr that provides F(11' taste a \I hal it is at tunlly like 10 eat at EI Bulli: meal at El Bull i IlSl'if. unless by special arr •mgcrncru. would consist

recebeu quando tornou coma do resraurante do Hacienda, 0 La Alquaria, forilm tao

or

simples como desafianres; replicar os farnosos prates do FI Bull" No entanto, esta transforrnacso de resraurante oassco em local gaslronomlC<lmente provocador nao acont ceu de urn dia
oara ooutro .....

of the

30-plus lasting

m enu rna le lip

.. ~

EssentialGounnet

•• erulr ly uf dishes crea leu during the current year. At La Alqueria on Lilt' other hand, the menu is made Lip I <1 selection til' E1Bulli's most famous dishes, each one with its date 01' creation alongside the menu description and spanning the last ten years up to 2003, Man) these dishes, such as deep Fried rabbit car with romaric herbs, are Iittle more than a ingl mouthful: others uch as omelet . urpri e f f ie grs sand arti 'hoke (tepid mouss of Fnk ~Tns 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lho frita com ervas aromatkas, sao apenas uma pequena dose nao maior que uma colherada;outlOS, como a orneleta surpresa de fole gras e aka chofras (mousse lepida de fOle qras sobre sorvere de alcachofra) sao rnais 5ubslanciais.lr avany1ndo no menu e uma extravagancia sensonal que dura pelo menos tres horas. Diz-se que um ora 0 parecido (om tagliatelle nao e rnassa mas sim gel(l ina de veado especlalmente tratada para nao derreter quando aquedda. Dutro vem a mesa como uma ta<;ade caviar lrarnano, com 0 carimbo "imi[0<;030 elBulli", mas, de facto, sao bollnhas de sumo de melancls confeccionadas, como que par magla, para se parecerern com caviar, mas que exptodem na boca com a docura da ruta.••

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