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CONSUMBROS VIOTOBY

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I will buy carefully- ancl I will not buy anything above the ceiling price, no matter how much I may want it. I will take good care of the things I have- and I will not buy anything made from vital war materials which I can get along without.

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ready, efficient, stron.g.

I will wastenothing- and I n'ill take care to salvage everything needed to win the war."
CoNsunrr,n DrvrsroN, Office of Price Administration It's up to you to keep the home fires burning, to seethat you and your family stay easy-onthe-eyes. Fortunatellr /ou can be patriotic and pretty both. It's easy to teach an old wardrobe new tricks, to resurrect the skeleTABLE
I In The Basket
What You Need in Your Sewing Basket and How to Conserve What You Have II Life Extension Page 5

tons in your closet and bring them up to date. Come on- take those old knockabouts and turn them into knockouts, keep that glint in Uncle Sam's eye and still do your stint torvards Victory!

O[. CONTENTS
}' Cutting Up In A Big Way
a. You Have the Goods on Him (How to convert a man's suit into a woman's suit) b. The Shirt Off His Back t Interesting ways to use men's shirts to good advantage) c. There's Life in the Old GirI Yet (Suggestions for women's and restyling girli' clothing) d. Junior Editions (How to make attractive clothes for young folks)

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How to Mend and Patch

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III

Fit For Anything
Alterations and Restyling

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Variety Is The Spice Of Life .
a. White Collar Class (Dickeys and collars) b. Smart Headwork (Hats to make and remake) c. Telling Trifles (Accessories from scraps of yarn, cotton and fabiic)

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How To Reclaim Used Wool SuggestionsFor Easy Sewing . . List Of Materials

Page 47 Page 48 Page 50

Copyright l942,The SpoolCotton Company

ffi.:: !:::/ |F # H-9002 C'33-Second Edition .r' iii:.

look at the zippers. it is a simple matter to cut a new one with a razor blade. .4. buy good scissorsabout 8" in length. . It is a waste of-time and energy. 50 to see what you should have. A Tape Dfeasure and a Yardstiek useful and necessary if you intend to sew. Pins of inferioi quality spoil the ^ fabric ih wtrictr they are used. Oroehet lfooks and trInitting Pins .yIIAT YOU NDEID IN YOUE AND IIOrf/ .. TO a SDWING BASI(BT _ WIIAT COITSBRVB YOU IIA\/D Care of Thread . FoId at center a piece of tape or ribbon six inches long. eighteen inches. Stick needles on this woolen material when they are not being used. as dust and dirt dull them. Bry the best scissorsand shears you can afford. Lut them off and use them agairi. a sharp smooth point which does not catch in the fabric. To sharpen needles use an emery. If you do much sewing. Seraps of Fabrieo Thread and Yarn.. coats-clarkts @EE) threads in correet sizes . Pins . There is a thread for every purpose and it js rvise to have an assortment on hand.. Keep scissorsclean. 8" in length? are a necessity. Do not discard your scraps. . Buy needlesof superior material. a small bag often made in the shape of a strawberry. . sizes 5 and 6 are very good. For seraiee-use J. Sewing Needles.ffi' I. are Zipperso Buttonso and Snaps. buttons and snaps. . 50. epply frequently a drop of lubricating oil at the joini. If you can have only one. use the correct length of thread. To prevent thread from unroliing from the spool. When you are discarding articles of clothing. To preserve needles from rust. In this way. . Pink the edges. and serv fold to center edge of width of piece. There is a size and type for every kind of sewing. . Care of Seissors o o . if yorr have to run to the store every time you decide to sew. . Pins are hard to get. wear a small pincushion heid at the lefi r. as soon as pins are removed.9". . Needles will rust if allowed to remain sticking in it. . Small and attractive accessories can be made quickiy and easily with them. See chart on p. Brass dressmaker pins. Thread . . Roll it un and tie it. they may be salvaged very easily. . If this notch becomes broken. or the distance from the middle finger to the elbow. Milward's. Have a selection of these tools in the sizes you are mosl likely to use..rrrist with an elastic. always tuck end in notclt provided at outer edge. To avoid knotting and "about fraying.. made of hand ground steel. . Scissors for sewing must not be used to cut materials other than fabrics and thread. ripping seams and snipping thread. If they are still good. A small scissorsis handy for cutting buttonholes. and if you pick them up and save them you are helping the war effort. When you are using pins. . & P. cut a strip of woolen material. Scissors . wide enough to accommodate the longest needle and long enough to hold the number of needles ordinarily used. Paper dulls them badly. This book has many attractiye suggestions for their use. Make a list of your ordinary sewing problems and consult the chart on p. have a smoothly finished eye which prevents the thread from fraying. Care of Pins ... Care of Needles o . dressmaker's shears or pinking shears.

IJse a darning egg. \Yhen sewing on elasticized fabric catch stitch is ahvays best to use because it has more "give. c. Buy rayon stockings as follows: a. If rubber is lifeless. If you cannot easily put the new garters between the double fabric. Many General l)irections things that can be done to lengthen the usefulness of stockings are described below. 5. Arrange stitches so that needle comes out over edges of hoie. 3. 2. Reinforce worn places in foot with small running stitches parallei to weave. take a few running stitches far enough from the hole to take in all the lvorn part. Cut thread rvhen finished and tuln darn around. b. Buy leg length about 2" shorter than silk or nylon-they are apt to stretch. When you need to use darning thread. 4. RolI dorvn to the toe and draw them up easily. Ropair 1. Stitch by machine close to edge. 4. c. b. I(eep it out of the sun and heat when drying. Take care not to put your needle through any rubber threads for it will cut them. Trim ragged edges of hole. llending Runs . 3. 49). insert egg under hole. re-stitch. AIIow to dry completely. & P. To llake Stocklngs Last Longer l. N{end split seams with an over and over stitch. PuIi paper apart to free stitches. Turn. 50 {or correct threads. . When putting on a girdle: a. Separate strands according to weight of stoching. . Pin fold to piece of paper. b. you will cover it and aiso strengthen the worn part. & P. Alrvavs fasten garters in double hem. etc. Bring pulled threads through to wrong side and secure with tiny stitches to prevent runs.Ir0sr TO MDNID ANI} PATCH You've no idea how quickly wilted wardrobes respond to kindness. Put stockings on carefully. a Hole . sew them onto the under side of garment and finish off with a tape or satin ribbon for additional reinforcement. Launder stockings carefully after water each n'earing in lukewarm with mild soap flakes. Thread machine rvith matching thread. If back garter comesat opening in double hem.vt Duty vrncrnrzED sEwrNG TIIREAD so that it will hold and then darn it down into seam or fabric rvhere it pulled out. . Seams-Sew twill lape or satin fabric as a reinforcement on under side. Leaving a short end free. c. Choose a shade a little darker than stocking as thread rvorks in lighter. Jffeave stitches in the same \val' across the rvidth over ancl under foundation stitches alreedy made (Fig. as they do not have the same elasticity. GIBIILES To Make Girdles Last Longer 1. STOCIilNGS . 5. (Fig. Fagotting Use J. Examine for worn places and repair as follows: a. and a judiciousand gallant-patch wiII keep {nany a dress going to a ripe old age. Decrease length of rows on other side of hole. mercerized Turn stocking wrong side out. Try the needle-and-thread treatment for that "just stepped out of a bandbox" look. . Ieaving a small loop at turning. weaving back and forth with small running stitches. Fasten lisle stockings more loosely than others. When choosing a girdle: . 3.5. Alternate wear of garments each week il you have two. Use fleshy part of hand-not fingernails to take hold of elasticized labric. . Coars Hn-Lvy Dury I{ERCERTzED tltlnEan an:l a catch stitcil (see p. Garters-a. cuticle. and length in accordance with the length of leg and of girdle. 2. Rirrse thoroughly and rvrap il in a turkish torvel. stretching while pinning. On eacir succeeding row increase number of stitches so that when you come to the hole. 2). If only stitching has been broken. . b. 1). b. Te'st length of garters in sitting position. Buy cotton reinforced toes-or reinforce on wrong side with cotton darning thread. . Launder garment once a week. Darn on right side. with skillful mending your stockings will outlast all their contemporaries. Elastic Webbing-Catch the end of each rubber thread that has pulled out and wrap it securely with J. Tie and clip ends of thread. Do not dry near heat. Coers Hne. in a weight suitable to their use. cut garters off and replace with new ones.size-size of a stepP"I rn Is your warsl measurement. Rayon stockings should be allorved to dry 48 hours. the right. a. Your girdles will keep you in shape indefinitely if vou apply First Aid in time. . For the same reason do not stitch elastic webbing on the machine.. If they pull. Examine the garrnent for worn places and repair as soon as they appear. With stockIfarning ing right side out. 2. b. set tlis up. FoId so that run is on fold. see p. bracelets." 4. Buy two pairs of the same color at one time in the correcl size. garter or stocking should be longer. Fasten garters straight and in center of double hem of stocking. Take care not to pull threads rvith rings. Do not use a knot and make Iengthwise threads first.

of narrow tape. Fasten off invisiblv and run thread end on inside for" 1" befo. r2). For coats and suits. On inner side of neckband run a colored basting down the center (Fig. Insert needle 1" from beginning of split. securing ends of stitching carefully and concealing all thread ends inside glove. Ontarong side of collar run a basting thread down the center (Fig. Remove collar from top o{ neckband by ripping stitching carefully (Fig. 5). seam is mended with an invisible stitch from right side. l'{ake large loop by taking another stitch in same place.ASTENERS l)irections . 9). 1o). HoId sarment closed to mark point lor othei half of snap. Lup garment. Use Mercerized Thread in a matching shade. (Knot is clipped when mending is finished. In lined coats. and mark with a pin a point tf " from the end of buttonhole nearest edse. calf. Using double thread. 3). Tack shield also to side and sleeve seams (Fig. & P. Continue chain of loops to desired length. BDLT LOOPS Mark half the width of belt above and below waistline. The straight m6tal ba". . Pull thread un from time to time. . and lun thread between trvo thiclincsses of fabric before clipping. 11). Reinforce this point with small buttonhole stitch (see p. stitch seam from wrong side by machine. Press neckband (seams still turneC in) and collar section well. Attach flat side first. MMffiFffiffi . knot ends. o. if there is not enough for a seam. 15). 16). SPLIT SDAMS Hooks and Eyes. If there is unusual strain on a button or it is sewed to a single thickness of fabric. i-nsert needle {rom right side at marked point. . Ease whelevel necessarv. Bnrr-lraNr is suitabie for cotton. and sewed on wrong side as button is sewed on (Fig. takingititches only through finished edge of shield. . use matching J. 1l). Pass needle through last Ioop and draw thread tightly to close chain. TURNING TIIE COT T AN.) On opposite edge of opening and di. doeskin. matching edge to edge and point to point. a).N. Tack shield at each end of curved seam to under armhole seam. 49). Using forefinger. or of narrow bands of dress fabric. . Place thumb and forefinger in loop. Keep stitches very small. Do not stretch band or collar.N. Buttons . Insert reversed collar in nechband. Sew over hook near toD t. Pull out all thread ends. and other side of snaD to shoulder seam directly over thi top half of snap (Fig. Do not draw stitch ail the way through. Bring thread to wrong sirle. capeskin. Sew hooks and eyes with double thread and an over and over stitch through holes. On Iapped seams. . take several small stitches. . draw thread through loop. Draw edges together by overhanding through the blanket stitches (Fig. Coer:s HBavv Durv MERcERTZED THREAD. use dark shields or cover them with lining material. Continue to catch 2 or 3 threads alternately on either side of split (Fig. making same seam allowance as before. Sew flat side of a small snap to free end. and fasten securely.ted. AIDS TO GOOID GISOOD{ING IDRDSS SHIELI}S Secure shields in desired nosition with invisible stitches. make a band 7/9" long of single crochet (use Cr-rnn's O. pigskin. Snaps . . Sew each hole separately and carry thread on wrong side of garrnent to next hole (Fig. 8). it is nossible to make blanket stitches ilong edges of ripped seam to strengthen it. Insert needle in seam ar second marking. If possible. After sufficient stitches have been taken through holes. drarv through to wrong side. sewed close by machine. 7). remove pin and wind thread between button and fabric several times to form a shank (Fig. Draw this loop out. tightening first one (Fig.6. . The curved elie extends sliglrtly beyond edge of opening (Fig. Sew snap lasteners with an over and over stitch using double thread and concealing knot under snap. folded into a square. etc. Cr-enr<'sO. Sew one end to shoulder seam half way between armhole and center of shoulder seam. SmaII buttons are used to reinforce buttons on oYercoats (Fig. Use Heavy Duty Thread for fabrics with firm body. Use General Button and Canret Thread for serving buttons on rfen's and boys' heavy clothes. If button has holes. reinforce with a piece of garment fabric. Pin from center out. LINGEBID STNAPS F. AND CUT'FS ON A MAN-9S SHIRT Determine exact center of collar and neckband by folding them in half. Mark center of each with pin. matching centers carefully. To prevent straps from breaking or being trcrublesome.u clipping. Using a double thread" knot. For heavy leathers.T MrncrRrzED lrrREAD doubled). 14).ffiNNffiruM GLOYDS Split seams in gloves are mended in manner of original stitching in whip stitch or running stitch. Place snaps not more than 2" apart. 6). thus maliing another loop. Place button in posiLion over knot and anchor in place by sewing through shank. after first stitch place a pin across top under thread to ireep it loose (Fig. rectlv across" catch 2 or 3 threads on needie. thread bar worked with a blanket stitch is placed on seam line. hold it down. leaving it Ioose enough that it will not pull when garment is on. Start n'ithout a knot. and inseit needle through seam from wrong side at top marking.T.

. 26). and J.. (Use thread drawn from hem or side. baste a piece of net under worn spot and darn as for tear. about /a" beyond end of tear and a little to the right.. fit edges together and sew across opening. Finish these edges with overcast stitch (Fig. In a diagonal tear both lengthwise and crosswise threads are cut. Threads in natch must run same wav as those in 'garment. When you reach the tear. rinsing rvell. . and any patiern should match exactly. It is oractical to turn cuffs onlv rvhen lhey fold back. 22). Do not sew raw edges of patclr io garment on wrong side.rnr's O. fade patch to correspond by washing in soap suds and baking soda. Stitches run at riglrt angleito opening. On one row make the stitch over tear and on next row under. Continue for about f{" beyond end. I)arned Patch . & P. Do not clip corners of hole. Do not darn too tightly but leave a very small Ioop at each turning.. cut a\\'at.N. take a few rows of small running stitches back and forth. If necessary. Darn in same manner as for straiqht tear. PATCIIE S llireetions . but in direction of tear. Coers MencrnrzEo Trrnr. . Tear Three Cornered is both lengthwise and crosswise. CIip closely (Fig. . MtsNIIING TEARS l)ireotions . . Stitch edges down by machine or hand hem (Fig. Cut a piece from hem or seams to obtain matclring patch. Then begin at other end and darn that side comoletelv. leaving an end of 6" on wrong side. and a darn would be too conspicuous and not strong enough.. a thread of fabric drawn from the hem or side makes a neat and inconspicuous darn. . Remove basting.ffiffi Baste both sides of neckband to collar along old stitching line (Fig. catch thread through stitches o{ last row and clip. On wool material. Do not make a knot as there is no strain on material. Straight bring thread through from wrong side of garment.c.) Darn each side completely so that stitches overlap at corners (Fig. For General u'oolens. Thread needle with 6" thread Iefi hanging at beginning and catch it through stitches of at least one row. Remore cuff br ripping stitching across top (Fig. 24). Otherwise use Cr-. Following the thread of goods.7. Press.ng in the sun. . 20). Darn with small running stitches parallel to lengthwise thread. Stitch by machine from inside around edge using a small stitch. used on utoolens . . Using threads of material as guide. Turn in raw edges and baste to patch (Fig. This is scarcely noticeable rvhen the shirt has been carefullv laundered. 25). . Baste and stitch on outside. .on to rnele either a square or rectangle (Fig. Tear. Over these stitches work another set at right angles to first (Fig. To begin. Occasionally the collar {acing varies slightly Irom the rest of the shirt in tlrat it is cut on the opposite grain. Tl'orn Plaee On Garnent. Raw edses of the hole are basted to patch-and then darned to patch witl rows of small running siitches as in darn for straight tear. . Hornrned Pateh . Darn on right side. On wrong side of garment turn in raw edges of patch t/a" and baste to garment (Fig. Press. Tear . Inconspicuous.T. if a similar piece of fabric is not available.rd are strengthened (Fig. . Ease sleeve into turned cuff.o which comes in many shades so that it is easy to secure a matching color. 23). taking stitches through both thicknesses of material. Begin at one end and darn one side completely. Cut patch 1 " Iarger than hole.19). Baste to wrong side under thin spot. . Cut away worn portion as for hemmed patch.\\'orn port. 27). . On right side of garment clip corners of hole diagonally about /a". Effiffiffi@ffi . Cut piece of material same as garment just a little larger than rn'orn place. 21). . and drr-. 18). right side showing through. the hole is patched with material same as garment. 17). Pin patch in place under hole. Cut patch 1" larger on aII sides than hole after edges have been straightened. Stitches at corners thus overiup u. To finish. I)iagonal Tear . and cover entire worn area as for darning a tear. When General hcle is large.

Slip stitch (see p. With a double-pointed steel knitting needle pick up the stitches at bottom of ho1e. Run a loose machine stitch %" from raw edge. Dr. ending with a k row. 35) shows finished Patc11. Press. Ciip corners diagonally for 3/E" (Fig. IJse commercial transfer patterns or plan simple embroidery. On wrong side overhand patch to garment u iilr tiny stitches (Fig. Cut out flowers from printed fabric allowing /4" ed. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until stitches are worked off. Allowing 1. & P. . Press.tch . Original pattern or commercial transfers may also be used. 2. Overcast raw_edges. . Straighten hole as for hemmed patch. Cut patch/s" Iarger all around than opening. Pull up stitching and raw edge will turrt under.. l}nbroidery for patches . 31). 37). 3a)... Sew side edges neatly to the side edges of rectangle on rvrong side of hole. Place paich over hole right side doivn. It shouid fit exactlv. Carefully match patch and cut it -3ls" Iarger than the hole on all sides. Nleasure dimensions of hole with edges turned back. cross sritch). . 32). Four seams meet at underarm. cut off triangle of goods (Fig. 36). Place stitches on the stitch holder or safety pin on the second knitting needle. 4.. Wor. Insert darning needle as if to p in first stitch of front needle. Holes may be cleverly hidden by means o{ appliqu6. coats-clark's GEED threads in eorreet sizes . Insert darn. . and the strand of yarn is at the end of back needle. draw yarn through. Baste with smail stitches at these points (Fig. each coiner oI which comes at a seam line (Fig. Pless seam open. Turn in 3f " allowance on one side. Insert darning needle as if to k in the first stitch of back neeclle. Press down. saddle-stitchin[. (Fig. Pin in place with pins at right angles to folded edees. Thread a darning needle with this length.. basle edge of patch to edge of hole. Insert darning needle as if to k in first stitch of front needle (same stitch as before). Weave the stitches on the two needles together as follolvs: as if to p. Overcast raw edges. and slip this stitch off the front needle.. Baste.. Abbreviations k.knit p. Pless through a damp cloth. Turn edges under as far as possible. 3. Do same on 3 remaining sides. 38). Embroidery may also be used to conceal tears and darns.WHffi@NM NN Owerlrand Pa.ing needle as if to p in first stitch on back needle. Insert darning necdle in next siitch of front needle 'E. all 6. Break off yarn so that a 1. 28). and slip this stitch off. Straighten edges of hole. 29).aw through the yarn. but Ieave the stitch on front needle. For eervice-use J. Rip seams about edges of hole back /2" and /2". 30).2" Ior seam.stitch Appliqu6 for PaJches. Place the stitches at top of hole on a stitch holder or safety pin (Fig.Turn press (Fig. Turn dress to wrong side. Stitch on bastins Iine (Fig. llnitted Pateh . Turn the work and hold it so that the two knitting needles have stitches even and parallel. lu"ydaisy. Put patch directly under hole.geall around.33). draw yarn through but leave this stitch on needle. 5. Insert darning needle in next stitch on back needle as if to k. Sew neatly in place with matching yarn (Fig. p 1 row) until work reaches the top of the hole. Baste around turned edge. Press. Least noticeable (not uery strong). . flnderarm Patch. Double over a short end of yarn and draw a loop through first stitch and proceed as in regular knitting. Remove bastings. leaving stitch on front needle.purl st.k in stockinette st (k 1 row... . Draw yarn through. At each corner slash by separating 3 stitches as shown in (Fig.[" length is ]eft. 49) in place with small invisible stitches. Fold the pieces at both sides of opening back to wrong side of sv/eater. Cut away worn porlion in a square. Cut hole into a rectangle. 1.which ne^eds no pattern (monograms. .With patch flat" where creasei corne to a point. leaving stitch on back needle. Attach matching yarn at right side. Darn in loose end at beginning ol work. .

4 9 ) . wearing shoes of a suitable heel height. PreJs. 5. * For a skirt the procedure is the same as that outlined above. Take out old hem. Baste close to fold. Put on garment. Alteration frequently involves only a few simple adjustments.om edgc. and catcL s t i t c h i n p l a c e ( s e ep . and slip stitch (see p. 2. u. rayons) and other waslrubles . but keeping in mind the existing Iines of the garment. 48) the hem edge" run a machine stitching close to the edge. after cleaning and pressing.there sltirt is not too full. a new lining. it is suitable to the existing garment.e is the same as tlLat outlined above.ith some fullness. it is sufficient to pink (see p. Rather choose a plain contrast. pressed and treated as new fabric.oolens. * For a skirt the p. Nobody will ever guess tire age of your coat if its hem swings straight and true. 1).oolens. Is the style adaptable to the change? The general rules for this kind of alteration are as follows: 7 . 3.. OF. z. Trim to desired width.oced. For rayons. choose a mercerized tlrread of matching coi-o-rand machine stitclr over the mark. . Dresses. and skirts u.9.r. Match seams. Do not attempt to match weaves. its collar trim. Two inches is an average finished width. Is the original fabric good enough to survive the change? 2. take off old seam binding to use again. and pulling this up to fit. pin. 49). N K m IIom L.. chosen for desired new lines. snap to attention like brave and pretty soldiers t'or seruice. Parts to be recut are ripped flat. In this case there are a few important considerations: 1. a waist taken in. Is the color becoming? If r:ot.skirts. DNESS u. turn in raw edge /a" and machine stitch close to edge. For Finishes cottons.LBNcTH IIow to Alter llerns 1.spriading fullness evenly into the places where it wanti to fall naturaily. can it be dyed? 3. Slip stitch. Press on wrong side. Press out crease mark from wrong sidl through a damp cloth. gather fullness to fit hemline bv running a loose machine stitch t/+" fr. 3). 2). Mark at desired hemline by having someone measure the distance Jrom floor with a yardstick and mark it at short intervals aiound bottom of skirt by inserting pins parallel to floor (Fig. Turn up hem at new line by folding fabric at pin line and placing pins at right angles to fold (Fig. or dream your dress isn't this year's vintage if its shoulders are smooth. To make desired changes use a commercial pattern. the line of the former. but very full skirts should have narrower hems. 4. 3. Shrink out excess fullness by pressing through a damp cloth. hem persists in showing. Follow these simple as ABC directions and watch your tired wardrobe put on new airs.OBLDtrIS. and coats may need hems or sleeves lengthened or shortened.. or use a commercial skirt marker sct at proper height. Contrasting fabric is chosen so that rlaEss PR. Machine stitch seam bindinq or cotton bias trim along gathering line. Hint: When lengthening the skirt. Finish hem suitably. if. 2.. "bagginess" eliminated at the back. following the grain. 3. Occasionally alteration entails a change of one or trvo objectionable features so as to restyle the garment. using a gauge (Fig.ALTERATIONS A1TD BDSTYLING For external use only: a thimbleful of dressmakers' tricks guaranteed to take the years off your clothes in the twinkling of a needle's eye. For lrcauy firmly utouen u-. The same applies to colors and prints.

press. and applied again after zipper has been inserted. + For a skirt. Measure of skirt. Measure desired number of inches down from waistline all around skirt and mark with pins. Baste and stitch side seams along marking lines. Shortening Sktrt a TulI Length 1. Finish hem suitably (see Hem Finishes t. Hem is marked with chalk or pencil /a" below point where dress touches floor. Join ends. and matching cenl. + For a skirt follow the above procedure. Remove dress.lline 1. 2. Mark fold at top of skirt and new side seam lines. Press. A Concealed Piecing at Top of Skirt will serve to lengthen skirt. Cut off /s" below basting Iine.SPBCIAL PROBLEDIS IIT AIDJUSTING LDNGTH OI. t0. 8. clip back seam allowance into seam (Fig. Make allowance for the extra width of the zipper slider and continue stitclringat that widrh-(Fig. 5. Stitch back 1/a" by machine. DRESS 7. 3. 5). stitch skirt placket. 7. Baste around pin line. 6. Sew enough pieces together that strip equals width at bottom skirt. Cut off on this line. Note: Most difficulty in putting in zippers may be avoided by using a cording {oot on the machine in place of the regular presser foot. follow c e d ur e . so of 5. Take out zinper and side seams. Matching centers and side seams. Turn up edge another /6" and slip stitch (see p. S). when it is hanging straight. graduating into old seams. At front of placket opening. Take up or let down as necessary by turning under more or less around top of skirt. Faeed Hem on a Straight Skirt Cut a straight strip for facing long enough to equal measurement around bottom of skirt and proceed as for Faced Hem On A Flarcd Shirt.pin front edge oI placket to seam line ind baste firmly.-nder Hotu To Aher Henu frorrr a l)ress Shortening (lVhen Lower Sr'aistline Be Altered) Ddgo Cannot I. 6). cut bias strips (see p. 4). Determine how many inches you wish to shorten dress (see p. Conceal piecing with a contrasting peplum. Refit botl-side seams by pinning in excess fullness evenly on sides (Fig. The band when finished should be about 5" for a chiid and 7" Ior an adult. Baste around pin line. press open. 3. Press out folds. hemmed by hand (see p. Baste. so that peplum will be part of dress and not obviously a cover up (Fig. pin skirt to rvaistline. Baste and pless. Mark waistline on waist with basting. Rip out placket and rip skirt from waist. Ease fabric to tape so that metal will lie flat. A). Place two basting lines together and sew right side seam. Rip old seams.-insert placket. of a fabric similar to that in dress. Strips of contrasting material cut either 71" or 15" wide allow for a double fold and a /s inch seam allowance. 2. Rip side seams of skirt to bastrng rlne. Baste around marked line. 5. trim to 3/+". Put on dress and check evenness of hemline. proceed as in steps 1 and 2 of Hou To Aher Hents. Press both edges. For facing. and remake front of dress in contrasting fabric also. 7). * For a skirt follow the same procedure as above except that the belt is rippcd off first. Stitch close to edse with cording foot. 4.er points. Stitch. TI'AISTLTND lV-aistline Too Low 1. baste seam aIlowance back along marking line. insert at ll-ais. 4. the above pro- 1. 2. I)ress Too Large marking. Mark new seam lines on back and front with nins placed parallel to seam.". Extend slitclring beyond opening to end of tape at both ends (Fig. Fold facing back to wrong side along seamline. ron! back @ . Mark center back and center front of waist and skirt. Trim seam to /a. Stitch front of placket to tape on right side using a cording foot. Fit strip to lower edge of garment right sides together and baste. 4. distance around bottom 3. Continue Iold 3/+" above and below opening (Fig. At back of placket opening. pin to waist at waistline. Turn under top of skirt at basting line. sew Left side Mffi . 9). Mark center front and center back of skirt and waist. 2. . rip off belt and follow above procedure. Put on dress and mark correct lvaistline with pins. so that it will lie flat. Other Suggestions For Longthening tr I)rcss A Folded Band of Contrasting Color may be added to a dirndl typc of skirt. to waist. When there is not enough fabric to turn up.9). Remove skirt and trim top edge 3/4" aboye marking line. At ends of tape. seam above and belorv placket opening (length of zipper teeth). '19). 9. 2. In same manner. 8. This is a special foot which may be purchased at very small cost. Rip skirt from waist and rip nlacket from skirt. Pin and baste back edge of opening to zipper tape close to metal. 4. Stitch around bottom edge taking /2" seam. Baste. press. + For a skirt. Press oPen. Or hem may be rol]. 3. Pin skirt to correct waistline matching centers and side seams. 49) 3 inches wide. On risht side. Run basting along-pin Iine. fold seam alIowance 1/g" away from seam line. Taeod llern Skirt on a Tlared p.[9). Fit side seams. 6. Turn in top edge of skirt along marking line. Excess lenqth on belt is taken off at back of opening.

if sleeves and shoulders are too hopelesslv out of clate (Fig.F). Take out sleeves and remake. Waist or Skirt of l)ress Out of Date Cut off sleeve just above worn place. T r i m h e m t o l / 2 ' . 2. By pulling up this stitching slightly. experiment with contrasting fabric to determine the most becoming line). Put in recut sleeves.ain hem. depending on style of dress. Cut new line from this pattern.ll. D). Choose a suitable pattern and re-cut dress anC new panel from it (Fig. Subtle related colors. folding garment carefully at center lront and center back before pinning on pattern. a. or cut off 3 to 5 inches below waistline. 1" dolvn frorn this line. SI. Skirt of Dress Too Narrow 1. This is esneciallv good on evening dresses (Fig. Turn un on l o w e r l i n e . Pin other sleeve the same way and match tn'o sleeves to get correct Iine (Fig. t . l.i ci' I I I . Take out sleeves. In any section a + indicates special recommendations for skirts. as do bold contrasts. C). a neckline which has been stretched may be eased in. b a s t e "p r e s s . dark colors tend to decrease size. Determine new Iine on other sleeve as above. open up flat. Match "straight of goods" marking carefully to lengthwise thread of sleeves. Add contrasting yoke and sleeves. Sometimes the skirt of a dress is entirely good and the waist is out of date or vice versa. 2. 2. \'\ A _f. Tahe out back waistline seam and seams of skirt. Trim hems to 1". and recut from desired pattern. FoId sleeve in half on searn. pinning this fold. (If skirt is cut off below waistline. Bright striped jerkins can transform plain dresses (Fis. Sew pad to shoulder seam. Press cuff back on original marliing line. Run a machine stitch close to edge to p"event stretching. Sleeves S-orn Out at the Dlbow BESIYLING I)ress Too Srnall PROBLDMS Insert contrasting panel in front. B). Apply seam binding to edges and slip stitch (seep. SIIIBI Most PBOBLEMS skirt problems can be handled in the same manner as dresses. 2. Measure and mark aro-und sleeve. FuIl gathered skirts accentuate size. For a pl.DB\/BS iiloeves Out of l)ate 1. Press. Press out folds. Turn under desired length on one sleeve and pin. Proper sleeve padding is important. For a 1" turn-up cuff on a straight sleeve. Add new skirt in contrasting fabric cut from a commercial pattern chosen to fit in with style of dress (Fig. and also pinning front and back of armhole seam together.Bagginoss at Back ol Skirt of l)ross side NECITLINN Neekline Is Unbecornlng 1. b. dep". To fit sleeve to arm. Pad to yz" thick at center fold. baste around turned edge. e). Refit side seams.ate jackets and skirts are often possible. * For a skirt. ll). Make the other half in contrast. allowing fold edge to extend about 3/n" beyond armhole into top of sleeve. 1. Tahe off old skirt at waistline. 49). 2. Bind edges. press. take off belt across back and folIow the above procedure. Raise back of sliirt just enough to bring side seams into line (/s" to 3/+"). Try on to check for length and evenness (Fig. Take off old neckline finish. Cut a 6" square of fabric and fold diagonally. a n d finish as before. Press carefully. graduating to nothing at three points. E). Baste. Even hemline. take out excess in sleeve seam. and duII. Select a pattern with desired neckline. Apply suitable finish as suggested in pattern.\. 1O). mark desired finished line with a basting at fold (Fig.

BlinC hem stitch around entire armhole. Put on coat. Turn up hem on coat and facing at new line by folding fabric at pin line and placing pins at right angles to fold (see p. 3. Pin over armhole and baste.o"I h". pin over armhole. seam allowances and center back pleat are provided for. 4. 13. but a very durable fabric is rayon twill. Pin lining to front armhole seam (clipping. Pin and baste. Set lining edge /2" up fi. 4. adjust sleeve lining" and pin to lining at several points. Do not wait until lining is too badly lvorn since it is necessary to use it as a pattern. Allorv a little more or less according to width of fabric. Lay coat on table and put in lining wrong side to wrong side. 9. The Body of The Coat 12. When cutting. Rip lining free from fabric at bottom of sleeves and take out any hems. using a gauge. buy. Blind hem lining separately.om bottom e d g e . Pin fold edge over front. so that it lies flat. Baste lining to sleeve at this point. Be careful to cut opposite sleeves. using long stitches and working on wrong side. Adjust 3. (d) rvhere dart comes at front shoulder. Try Press. CutJing 1. baste. pinning in dart as indicated. Tack seam ro seam from underarm to hip. Before ripping out. 5. (b) about midpoint on back and front of sleeve. Shrink out excess fullness (see p.. Turn under seam allowance between the two marlied points at unclerarm. For an average length of coat. 12). 11. 5. Catch stitch in place (see p. On a coat which you do not expect to lengthen again. Or machine stitch binding on hem edge anC blind hem (Fig. 49) across shoulders. At back neckline about one inch below seam allowance. Baste lining to sleeve at this point.To Aher Hem ol Coat from step 2 on. rar-on. To finish lining: Put coat on and pin lining to coat around bottom of coat about 4" above hem. Turn up hem of lining one inch shorter than hem of ioat. if necessary) and across front shoulder. twice the length ol garment plus about 12 inches for hems. Turn in seam allowance. On coat of suit. Begin 4" above hem on one side and blind hem stitch lining to front and neckline facings around to 4.as a guide. Pin sleeve to lining at several points. Try on coat. Baste close to fold. Turn in seam allowance. The back pleat is also caught at the waist. Set Iining edge 1/2" up |rom sleeve edge and slip stitch to sleeve (Fig. Pin and baste to front facings making sure that fabric lies flat and smooth. t2.) Slip stitch lininq to facing where it was ripped. 3. Turn up lining even with hem of sleeve. Determine new hemline in same manner as for dress (see p. 9. t4). 2. French tacks are made like buttonhole loops (seep. This is best done by placing same sides of material togetlrer when cutting. hem of facing is trimmed to /an and slip stitched to lower edge of coat. coat sleeves to desired length. Baste. make a cross stitch to mark (a) where sleeve joins shoulder seam. Put coat on. using . the lining is attached at lower edge. Pin lining to back armhole. pin from each side toward center back so that excess fullness becomes a pleat at center back. (c) corresponding places on armhole. Press out folds. Baste turning. Pin at underarm seams. By using the old lining pieces as pattcrns. Cut fabric and make marks to correspond with old lining. Trim hem evenly. Mark new length on facing also. Ifow to Line a Coat Linings may be made of silk. 7. Fasten linin[ to hem at each seam with French tacks (Fig-. see that grain Iine is observed (see p. 10. Press open. (Do not trim facing on children's clothes. l4). Turn up lining evcn with hem of sleeve. baste. 49). about 3" from bottom of sleeve. Eor terolee-Use J.-Set lining edge /2" up from sleeve edge and slip stitch to sleeve (Fig. Press. let out wherever necessary. 14. 9). 49). Blind hem stitch (see p. 9). 4. T'urn up lining even with hem. running a machine stitching close to edge. making a 1" hem (Fig. 49) front darts and back pleat for a few inches from the top. using this portion as a pattern. & P. easing in fullness to fit. 5. Rip lining out and press to use as pattern. Pin. a n d s l i p s t i t c h ( s e ep . Coats-Clarkts <[D threade in correct sizes . 6. Trim to I inch. or cotton. Finish rarv edges by pinking. If it does. and catch stitching in place (see p. Turn in seam allowance across back shoulder and baste. leaving not more than 2". Turn in seam allowance on front. Trim Io 1y2". Press on wrong side. tZ). 4 9 ) . Baste lining to coat arounil this line. Fold facing back in place. 3" from bottom of sleeve. 2. IJse one side of front and one sleeve (one of each piece if there are two pieces). Baste around armhole and across shoulder. Baste and stitch seams of sleeves and body of lining with the exception of the shoulder searns. Hem Finishes 21. Seam allowances are indicated by stitching lines on old lining. Match marked point at top of sleeve to shoulder seam. 8. Try on coat to make sure that Iining does not draw. Ease lining up. . Catch stitch (see p. How to Shorten Sleeve of Coat f. Fold back in half on length. in 39" fabric. on to check evenness." frorn hem on other side. 48).OOAT PITOBLEMS IIow IIem to Alter the of a Coat 1. 13). 49). 2. Ease lining up so that it lies flat. 6. Finish hem and lining by following directions on Hou. Free lining from hem of coat and take out both hems. Rip lining from facing on inside of coat far enough to allow you to work comfortably. Sleeve Put sleeve lining in coat sleeve wrong sides together and match nrarking on sleeves to markings at armholes.

a necklace and earrings of bright crocheted stars. make every costume pay extra dividends with a iittle needle and thread trickery. -e. a set of salr-agedfrom a bureau drarver or br. may on occasion wear a fresh-as-paint party face. . crepe dress looks trim and business-Iihe At 9 a. It's no trick at aII for a dress to have nine lives.m. glamorized with a frothy dickey.q\ Y\/ LI el ffi .9 rnade n'ith a ferv bits of odd I'arn change a ilress so \-our Lrestfriend i c o u l d n ' t l ' e c ( ) g n i z et . a pair of red gloves and a matching calot or an inch of scarlet flounce peeping out from the bottom of a skirt./) Clothes may make the woman but nowadays there's no doubt that accessories make the clothes. You can give last year's dress a new lease on life. the same dress. <\:4 A polka-dotted hat and bag.t. Many a woman with a well-deserr-ed reputation for chic has only a few basic costumes on n'hich she has learned to ring endlesschanges. a gay little hat. a new belt. a simple with neat white collar and cuffs.m. At 9 p.rttons u.It's good fashion senseand smart dollars and cents to s-t-r-e-t-c-h your wardrobe with a versatile collection of easy-to-make accessories.

.14.BAD{D UP TO IIAI(E YOU PRETTItsB Leff: One Vestee with three jabots that button on. It's that easy to do a quick change.S A tr. .rT.

Band rn-ith Ruffle. 3. 6. Short Dickey. 88. 5. Scalloped Peter Pan Collar. Rever Collar with Ruffled Edging. Button-On CoIIar with Crocheted Edging and fnsertion No. 2. V-Necked Notched Collar. 4. B. Folded Circle Jabot. AC. 5D 6 Bdgings and Medallions of all kinds to trim any of the collars and dickeys.k"y. Circle Jabot. lO. 7A. C. Below.I. . Band Bottoml]icl<ev. 102. Resulation Elasric Bottom Dickey. Vestee with Three Jabots: A. 10. Square Collar. BA. Vest Bottom bi. 7C. 101 (top) and 1-03. Bias Band Collar wiih Ruffle. 78. V-Necked Collar with Frilly Crocheted Edging No. Pointed Collar. I)irections for Dlaktng All Dtckeye and Collars Begin on Noxt Page . 100. V-Necked Collar with Crocheted Medallion Trim No.1. 9. 15.

Gather (see p. baste around turned edge. Cfi size. 49) 3/s" wide and 28" Ione. 49) crocheted insertion to lower edge of A. 1' AcC-Folded cording to Fig. 2. To turn around curved end eisily. Pointed Col- l. 4.14" elastic. 2 Pointed . Make 4 more buttonholes so that tons of buttonholes are 2" apart (Fig. l). 2. Roll hem (see p. Iurn. Whip opposite edge of insertion to circular edge of B. Itrn. Finish entire edge with ing (see p. 2 . 22. fabric. taking r/" seams around edge. L) Be C. Polnted Collar (Scraps of fabric) 1. close io slash at center of circle. Fold in half lengthwise and overcast (see p. Pull stitching up slightly and edge will turn under. Too stitch rsee p. sloping to 3" wide at other end. 2 cut Jabot.{ 'T%. Stitch Collar pieces together around outer edge. 2 above. Finish neck edge with ing (see p. Whip edging to outer and lower cdge of B. Make thread loop (see p. Make 3 more buttonholes so that tops of butlonholes are 2" apart. Make 5 buttonholes (see p. 2. at 2" intervals (Crochet Directions on p. Finish neck edge with narrow bias binding of same fabric (see p. Finish entire outer edge and back opening of Vestee with narrow machine hem. 49) into place. 49)./a" diameter) 1. dart Circle Jabot . 3 on p. Sew 5 buttons down center front. Attach buttons to garment. Match center of Ruffle (on gathering line) to center of Band (at rounded end).9" 3. 49) of organdie 2" wide. Mark scallops evenly around Collar /s" in Ironr edge. Malie worked buttonhole (see o. F o l l o w s t e p s2 a n d 3 u n d e r S q u r r r . Roll hem (see p. stitch Ruffles to raw edge of folded bias strip. G a t h e r ( s e ep . A-Band with Ruffie . Make worked buttonhole (see p. 5. 4 8 ) r a w e d g e t o 1 0 " . 3). Cut 2 pieces from Pattern No.t.1 bias bind- (Scraps of fabric) 1. and press /a" all around both Band nieces. 5.tu%ffir6fub l. Finish neck edge and connect two collars with a 24"-piece of bias binding (see p. contin.19) edges together. Starting at ends. 49). 23. 2. 2. B-A. 1 Back. Match end of Ruffle to end of Band. 3. Cut 2 Collar nieces from Pattern No. 3. 49) in bias band at center. Cut 2 Band nieces from Pattern No. Ialxic) Collar 6. 3. Turn. Cut 2 Collar pieces (either rounded or notched according to style desired) from Pattern No.19) to fit button on Vestee as indicated on pattern. 3. . 3. 48) inner edge of Ruffle to 18". Cut Vestee from Pattern No. 8 pearl buttons. 5. 4 buttons /s" elastic) l. 6. 49). 2. Roll hem (see p. Cut from doubie fabric (right sides together). 1 on p. 49) entire outer edge and ends of Ruffle. Sew buitons on left edge to correspond. Press.23. B-Circle Jabot . . Bias Band Collar With Rufle (Scrapsof fabric) 1. & P. Follow sten 2 under Iar No. 23. 4. 4. l.tton-On Crocheted sertion-1O. Trim seams to la". run a loose machine stitch around curve close to edge. Collar No.19). Cut 2 Collar oieces from Pattern No. 3 . 5. 49) to fit button on Vestee about /a" from straight end of Band.23. Cut 2 Collar oieces of linen from Pattern No. Place second Band piece over first on wrong side and slip stitch (see p. leaving a 4" opening on neck edge to turn. Press. fitrn Collar right side out through opening. 3. Trim seam to 1/a". I cut Jabot. . 2. Sew elastic to sides of Vestee at rvaistline to hold Vestce in place. 3. (Scraps of linen and organdie) 1. baste around turned edge. 2. V-Necked (/2 yd. 4. 1 above. Vestce with S Jabots Collar With Ddging and In- Q/a yds.. Square Collar bias bind- L-lusrnarroNs oN pAGES14 eNo 15. . 4.2. Ilu. 49). 23. Roll hem (see p. arid in between. Ror seraiee-Use. 1. 7. through center. 4. 6-8 on p. 49) all around. Whip (see p. Turn under /a" along each side of opening and slip stitch (see p. Trim seams to /a". Repeat with other two. Stitch shoulderdarts by bringing Slash dotted lines together.)' (Scraps of fabric) 1. Stitch two A pieces together around outer edges. . Regulation Dlastic flottom Diekew (1 yd. 2 on p. Make worked buttonhole (see p. 7. ends. 3 A and 1 Ruflle from Pattern No. Scalloped CoIlar Peter Pan 8. 7 on n. 3. Coats-Clark's <GED threarls in correct sizes . bias bind- 2 Fronts. . i3. 3. 6-. 48) to edge of CoIIar under scallops. Press. Accordins to Fig. Cut 4 Collar pieces from Pattern No.. Trim seam to /a". 23. 2. 7. Fold in half Iengthrvise and trim-ends as in Fig. '19) at top of riglrt center edge of back openins and 2 more at 1" intervals. Face tu'o inch tab at bottom of Jabot. includinq two ties with iarrow roll hem (see p. Press open. 23. Finish entire outer edge of Jabot. fabric. Finish neck edge with ing (see p. l. baste around turned edge. 6. 4. uing stitching across center of strip (Fig. 3-B both on p. 48) Band to Ruffle. using a circle the size of a quarrer. 5. . Cut two pieces for Ruffies each 30" long and 4" wide at one end. Cut a bias strip (see p.4 on n. 49) entire outer edge of both B pieces. 6. 49) ends and straight edges of Ruffles. Stitch Collar pieces together around entire outer edge. 4 orrp. t6. 49r to fit bulton on Vestee. baste. 49). Cut a bias strip (see p. .

tl in last loop. Insert Front and Back in each band. fabric. on outside of right Front by taking small stitches rvith colored thread. 48) to 72". Coers Mnn cERrzED nocnBr. 2 Facings (Front as far as cut-off line) from No. c h l . 14. s c in same place as sl st. Gather (see p.A. Rever Ilufled Collar Edging l!}-ith (Scraps of fabric) 1. ^ n ' 4 " 't' Q ' " pp r 2.lth ch from hooli. Ch 9. turn. Stitch logether on previour stitching line. 9 Patterns on p. Serv buttons on left Front to corresponcl to buttonholes. 9.+fl. baste around turned eclge. 4. skip 1 ch. tr in last loop. ch 1. 4. & P. Cut l straight strips each 2" wide and 36" l^-^ +^. Follow steps 3 to 10 under RegulationDickeyBAabove.hip (see p. Repeat from * across. ch 5.1MATERIALS: Cr-anx's O.N. B-C.nK's O. Turn. 11. Short Diekey 3 buttons-tf " size) (1 yd. Ch 5. Cl\r in t o .rrance t end of st. Follorvsteps 11 to 1j underRegulation Dickey 8-A above. Whip (see p. Fasten off. a 4. lst row: S c in 6th ch from l. Malie /s" nachine hem along lorver eclges. Join rvith sl st to form ring. l. Crochet abbrevlationsr page 5O . IOO-Frill. ending rvith ch 'tr. . Stitch Facings to center Front and lorver pointed edges. s c in. Cut a bias band 3" wide x 40" Iong for n a . Stitch CoIIar pieces together around outer edge. S t i t c h o n e f r e e e r i g eo f o p e n i n g i n band arouncl necli edge (right sides together). Continue thus joining motifs as 2nd was joined to 1st until piece is desired length. 2nd to 4th rows incl: * S c in next loop. 2 Facings (Front as far as cut off line) flom No. lO. 2 l 1 r _ _ _ _ _i_n b ' . 1 Back.N. baste turnecl etlge" prcss. Cut 2 \ V a i s t b a n L lp i e c e s e a c l t 7 " w i J e h 1 12" long.J. ch 3.2" in from sides. tr in sam. Press. aB) 3" sections to 2" (Fig. 49). Stitch Fronts to Back along shoulders.R o p e a t 2 from * around. Follow steps 2. . Vest Bottorn Dickey 3.1clling. Repeat the last row until piece measul'es 2 inches in all. Nllake 2 buttonholes (see p. Cut buttonholes through both thiclinesses and finish with buttonhole stitch (seep. e a m a t e n d o f s t i t c l r i n g .lth ch lrom hook" clr 1. 23. s c in . baste turned edges. size 30. Trim this searn to /a"" turn Facing to inside. Trim neck edge and front seams to 14" . Finish neck edge with bias binding.Col]ars. Machine back stitch (see p. Press. tttn to right side and baste turned edges.' place as last tr. B Patterns on p. Iland llottorr I)iekeY size) 4. 23. Stitch Facings to center Front stitching Facing edges. s c in same place as sl st. Stitch on /2" gathering line. 1 Back. On l'r'onts. 49) bias binding dorvn across back of neck SliP stitch Facing to shoulcler seam. 49) along seam across back of necli betrveen Facings. Starch lightly" press and w. 2. Co. 7 btttons-|2" Uz yd. Ch 5. Cut 2 Fronts. Malie thread loop (see p. Finished encls of bancl should come to eclge of 1" finished section at center front of neck edge. Press. Ch 7. and 6 under Regulation Dichey 8-A above. 7. Turn Facing to insicle. 4. Trim seam to fi". 48) inner (sloping) and shoulder eclges of Facings. 12. 49) to outside edge of collar. 5. 3. ch 5. Fold bias bancl in half lengthrvise (right side insicle) ancl stitch acloss ends ancl clonn sides for 11". Stitch a strip to outer edge of one rig'ht and one left rever. Cut 4 Collar pieces from Pattern No./2"ar each end free of ruffling. 9.rsMnncERrzED Cnocrrnr. lst rnd: Ch 4 (to count a r t r ' \ . 13.* ch 5. 5. s c i n n e r l t r ' . edge to edge. ch 2. Finish siclcs of Dickey with narrow machine hem. c)r 3. size 50. 23. Fold in half lengthwise and mark center. s c in 2nrl st of last ch. gather (see p. 8. Selv buttons on left center edge to correspond. Repeat from * across to within last loop. 9.tr9) ends and one side of each Ruffle. 4 buttons-/2" 9" elastic. 3.l7- . Join rvith sI st in 1st s c made. Place right sides of other two Collar pieces against ruffling just stitclred. Place right sides together. cL 7.p. turn. tr in same place as last tr. press. 2 Facings (Front as far as cut-off line) and 2 Coliars lrom No. Iabric. 4) through all thicknesses. ch 5. rst MOTIF . 2. 11.r. Complete rnd as on lnd rnd oI lst Motif (no more join ings). Fasten off. B Patterns on p. I Rountl Collars. Clip seam all. SteeL croclrct Hook No. adding 1 ch in each loop every other row. Stitch (Fig. Cut lrom double fabric ( right side together).T or J. but ch 7 to turn at end of 4th rorv.fabric. cir 5. 2 balls. skip 2 tr. Hand roll hem (see p. 8 Patterns on p. & P.Join Back and Front at pteces ol sides by inserting 4ls" elastic in hems. drop Ioop from hooli. 23. 3. Baste turncd edgcs flat. Ieaving 1. 2nd MOTIF .rook. i p t r . 2nd rnd: Ch 1. rnatching centers as shown. 49) on front ends of band and sew buttons on back. Stitch Collar to neck edge (under side of Collar to rigl'rt side of Dickey). 2nd rnd: Ch 1. 1. Continue over Collar around neck edge to end of Facing. 4).1 ball C Steel croclrct Hook No. t I 1d. Turn in other edge of banrl 12" and slip stitch (see p. 6. Follorv steps 2 through 13 untler Regulation Dickcy 8 A abole. 49) at top of right center edge and trryo more at 2" intervals below. ch 1. 5th row: * S c in next loop. Turn uncler arrd press f!" around all sides of \Vaistband pieces. Make a chain slightly longer than the measurement of the outside edge of collar. Stitch bias binding (see p. Baste aII around bancl. dran' dropped loop through.. s l i . turn. 1 snap) L Cut 2 Fronts (cutting off bottom in points as indicated). 5. insert hook in center p on a corner of 1st Motif. Fasten off.i-^ 2. l r f i n i c h / q . . 3. s c in next ch. * ch 5. Repeat from * across. turn Collar.tr in next tr. B-8. s c in 4th clr from hook. Cut 2 Fronts and 1 Bach (cutting of{ at rvaistline on dotted line as indicatecl). s c in 4th ch from hook. Mark buttonholes (51" Iong and 3" apart) as indicated. Slip stitch (see p.tr9) to seam arouncl inside of neck. 8. IOI-NIotif MATERIALS: Cr-. Join Back and Flont at sides rvith 4'/2" pieces of elastic. sliip 2 tr" tr in next tr. 12. Turn corner at nech edge ancl continue stitching Facing around neck for 1". Work as for 1st Motif until 1st rnil is complete. 2. ch 1.. 7. Try on Dickev and if necessary talie trvo small ilarts at rvaistline in Fronts for better fit. 10. 3. 49) to edge of collar. 10 on p. . 6 ." l_o i n r r i t l t s l s t in r _o ' _ '_ in 4th st of 1st ch made. 2 Facings r Flont as lar as cut off line) from No. 23. Finish entire outer edge of Dickey u'ith narrow machine herl. (Cont'd on Page22) Collar Ddging Edging size. .T r i n r seanrs to lg".T or J.

. l7 t5 .A BALL OF YARN A SOBAP OI. LOOKING LII(ru LOOKING LII(ru : A FASHION PHOTO FASHION PHOTO 13 qrM 12. Fabric CoveredCrinoiine Calot. 14. 15.. 13. Bow Calot with Back Ruffle and Matching Bag. FBLT AITIIYOU. Knotted Capand Drawstring Bag. Fabric CoveredCrinoline Sailor.

20. . Triple Thread Snood. Closed Crorvn Single Crochet Calot. 2!|. 19. Crochet Trimmed Felt Hat. Made Over Visor Cap. lB. Frill Pompadour Hat. 21. I)iroctions Begin For Nl:rkingi All trIats On Next Page 2l 22 20 23 . Open Crown Double Crochet Calot. 19. Popcorn Calot. Lacy Crochet Brimmed Sailor and Crochet Trimmed Collar. 22."'' 16. 17.

To fit fabric around crown. t/2.' belting iibbon. Match. Pin all around edge. turn under edge of one end on diagonal line. Fig.TrururlM I l-Pillbox (See photo on p. r0-Slip fabric over crown. Fit outer edge as in Fig. Baste. /s yd. &-Turn hat upside down. 1l-At outer edge of brim gently stretch fabric taut and smooth. top and bottom edges Fig.20. Fit to inside of crown and finish as in Fig. No. make small slashes aII around circular edge. Baste. SIip stitch (see p. 48) to sides of crown. to each side of center measure off /2 length o{ crown. add 3". 48) to sides of crown. Measurements for center strip: Take Iength of crorvn from back to lront through center.Tt.) See Fig. crinoline. Cut two squares of fabric to this dimension. Iabric. Pin around too edge.-. Match bias line to guide line on brim. Cut rectangle of fabric to these dimensions. Mark true bias (see p.". Fig. Trim edge to /a". Trim edge to /a". Overhand stitch (see p. . For width deepest part of side. Continue basting to outer edge. Mark true bias on s0uares. 50). right side up. 6-Making Sueatband-Dampen belting. I2-Sailor (1 crinoline sailor frame. add 3". 10. Press. Slash fabric covering up crown. Baste. Turn under so that finished edge is exactly on brim edge. /a. 13-At sides measure around widest oart of hat.19). Hold fabric taut and smooth. 11. At sides. *"urrli" Cut true bias strio to these dimensions. Back stitch. 1 for marking frame.] See Fig. Turn to underside of brim. Turn bottom edge to wrong side. over stitching line at bottom of crown. 5. add 1". j7a yd. Fig. Finish back ends as in-Fig. l-Mark center of length of crown. Mark. Fig. l3-Calot (1 crinoline calot frame. For width meaiure deepest part of side. measure around widest part of hat. Slip siitch (seep. Shape with heated iron by stretching one edge with point of iron. Blind tack at several ooints around. "t. right side out. 4--Divide length of strip in half. %" belting ribbon. Coats-Clark's <trE> threads in corroct slzec . /6" below edge. 7-Match and pin bias line to center line of crown. Fig. Fig. Stretch fabric to lie taut. add 2". Pin and baste all around. for too piece. foliowing grain of crinoline. Bor scrt:ice-Use J. 3-Hold fabric taut and smooth. /+ vd. /g yd.fabric to center line of hat. P.!9). Pin all around ton and bottom of side. 9-On one square find center of bias line. t/s yd.) Fig. l2-Place square on underside of brim. Overhand stitch (see p.center of length to center front and place turned edge. Join points to make a circle. 49) to crown. 6. Measure length of crown. Baste and back stitch (see p. Ilr-usrne'rroNs oN pAGES 18 AND 19.4e). & P. From center point measure /2 width of crown. Hold fabric taut and smooth. Turn unde-r one lengthwise edge /2" . Apply sweatband as in Fig. Cut around circle /2" to inside. Mark. To finish back. add 2".r. 1 for marking frame. Fig. Baste. Turn under end /a" and catch to under piece of ribbon. Pin. Cut true bias strip to these dimensions (see Fig. 3/a yd. Width is 4". Fig. Match guide lines. right side out. add 3". Pin 1/a" apart. Trim as desired. Measure length of hat brim. 1/e" below edge. Fig. add 3". Match and pin center to center Iront of frame iith top edge 1" above crown edge. all along length. . Pin around top edge. Add 4". Fig.rl\ \ "t:. Trim outer edge to /a". On line.rrn:uLndertop raw edge. 5-Trim to /s" . /s" belting ribbon. Finish top edge as in Fig. Match center line oI . 2-Measure length and width of crown. fabric. 2) (1 crinoline pillbox frame. . 49). 32. '1. Starting at center back inside of hat olace stretched edse l/16" Irom lower edge. /a yd. Cut square of fabric to this dimension. Iabric. Baste and back stitch (see p. Trim excess to.

) Cut 1 oiece from Pattern No. @ l4-Bow R. Divide in half on trrre bias line. l8-Mark center and measure Bring 5" 5" to each side. SIip stitch Gee p. 138 on p. Turn up again (to outside) on this line. 2. 49) other edge to seam line on wrong side. Press. Press. Tack. place side piece to center piece with curved edge of side fitted to center piece. Press. and with muslin pieces for Bag. cut from heavy muslin: 2 rectangles 7/2" x 74" Ior Bag. Cut same from crinoline.. and along each side of each seam of Caloi (see photo on p. Baste and press.Cut on true bias (see p. 49) ends of Band to Iower part of FIap where side edges meer. Stttch 6" ends. . 6. Fig. B on straight. shaping ends as shown. Top stitch one edge of Band to Ruffle. markings together and gather tightly throush both thicknesses. Stitch by machine.23. one rectangle 3" x 70" for Band. Press.(see p. 18)." searn). 3 skeins J. Trirn excess Io 12". Slip stitch Calot to Band. Turn. Stitch all three niece together end-s and one long side. Press seams open. Slip stitch ends together. 3.eces from Pa'ttern No. 49). Sew trimrning in desired position. Insert one side of Bas between Band pieces. 16-Trim line with center bias strip. 6. Turn to wrong side. leaving a 4" opening along one side to turn. Place two fabric strips right sides together. Pin all around bottom edge as in Fig. Cut two oieces from Pattern No. Ieaving 11/2" side open. /s yd. Match marking to marking on uncovered side. Remove from shaPe. Using these as patterns cut two pieces of fabric from each piece of muslin. 7. Place one calot insiile the other. Six Strand Embroidery FIoss. 3 bone hooks and eyes. rows on Band. Cut A on bias.48) raw edges to 712". l4-Match to center line of hat. Cut 10 pj. 2 rows around Ruffle. yd.N. ls" ribl:on belting. Edge stitch. 6. 23. Gather tightly -21. . Make a 10" looo on each side in same manner. & P. Insert other side of Bag between FIap pieces in same manner. Fold under /2" all around Band @" x 8%") piece. Pin at front and back edges. center line of fabric Fig. SIip 5. 15:-Cut Iabric 12" x 12". (cont'd ofl pdge 22) 6. Baste around turned edge. edges to /s" gathering line on Bag. Insert Band /2" in 7le" opening of Calot. Trim seam to L/a. Whip (see p. 15 on p. At sides on lower edge of calot divide distance of uncovere-d section in half.. Mark. Ba8 1. Turn. Press seam up. 5. Slip stitch (see p. Coats or Clark's O. Pin.%" belting ribbon. Apply sweatband as in Fig. Turn. l9-With right sides together. 5.[9). 49. 3. 13A on D. 5. Baste. heavy musLin. Turn. SIip side piece under center bias piece. trimming cut two strips Fig. 2t. Divide largest side of each triangle (bias edge) in haif and mark. Gather (see p. 6. baste edges. Place 2 fabric Band pieces (3" x 10") right sides together. Turn under t/a" trerr1. Turn up a 4. Start at tip and stitch down each section. turn under /a" and slip stitch. Place muslin Bag between two fabric Bags and baste all three together around open edge. 24") piece to Stitch one end around turned open end.T.T:urn to right edges. Pirr. /s yd. Saddle stitch around Flan and Band (2 rows). one rectangle 5/s" x 10" for Flap. 4. at bases of triangles. Fig. Apply sweatband as in Tig. Turn. Press open.) cap 1. Make 2 calots of 5 sections each. allowing 1/s" seam allowance. Baste. l3A-Sirnilar Calet frorn Fattorn Made 7. 'lE) cer*er piece to two sides. Repeat step 3 above with pteces (5/2" x 10"). crinoline. Press. 2. Place muslin Band ^alongon toD. Gently stretch and mold strip to fit shape. and two 5" circles. tabric. Fit covering on frame. /4 yd. Apply sweatband as in Fie. Pin all around. heavy muslin. 3. Saddle stitch around edge of Bow (2 rows). On edges turn under both lengthwise /4". Baste. side. 4. /2" ribbon belting. Press. Do same with other two fabric pieces for Bag. and one 9" x 24" for Bow. 8. 1" of fabric to extend over Allow Iower edge. (See photo on p. Tack Bow piece together making 2 loops and 2 ends. Place crinoline strip on top. 4. /s yd'. Cut 2 pieces from Pattern No. Top stitch (see p. 9. 8. 7. Gather each side of top to 9". Baste. 23. /a yd'. Stitch around lower edge leaving 7/s" open at center back to insert Ruffle. Stitch (/+" searn) all three together. fabric. Fold Ruffle (12" x 22") piece in half to measure 6" x 22". Stitch 2 fabric pieces for Bag (71k" 14") together along ends and " one side.. Tack in place." hem around lower edge. 18). Flap 3/a 0'z yd. OW a rectangle 72" x 22" for Ruffle. Turn in /s" at stitch together. On opening (1 yd. Repeat on other side. Baste around turned Turn under /s" along both open edges of Band. and side. 2. right side out. Stitch two pieces together around edge. a straight square of Fig. l7-For of fabric and one of crinoline each 39" long x 4" wide. fabric. 14 on p.) Calot 1. one 4" x 8/s" Ior Band. Stitch (/a. Turn lower edge up (on outside) to meet stitching line of hem. Tack to center front of Calot. Mark lengthwise center with basting. Sew on fastenings.ufle with Baek Calot Beg and Matehtng sides of triangle on a Fig. Fold Bow (9" x measure 4/s" x 24". l5-Knetted I)rawstring Cap and Bag (12/a yds. Also saddle stitch 4. right sides together. Cutting edges on straight of gooils. Mark. Turn through opening.

Join last ch-4 to 3rd st of 1st ch made. h d c. d c in next d c. Insert circle in bottom of bag and overhand lsee p. Steel crochet hooh No. d c in next d c) 5 times. in ch-3 sp make d c. cut strip 32" x 2". 4 sc in next ch-4 loop. in next loop make tr. Turn under 1/2" aro. fasten. ch 1" sl st in anv ch-2 Ioop of 2nd Center. s c. ch 2 and 3 s c. 49) to side ilong line of hem. Sl st in 1st s c made. turn. s c in next ch-3 loop. * ch 3 (s c in next loop) twice. & P. Dlodallion * around. s c between same 2 clusters. s c in ling. 6th row: S c in 1st sc. sliip.1 ball. * ch 3. d c in next d c. Repeat from * 4 more times. tch 3. ship 3 ch. Work as for lst Center until 2nd rnd is complete.8 balls of White. ch 4 and tr) 6 times. Repeat from * 2 more times. Ch 4" 2 d c in 4th ch from hook holding back the last loop of each d c on hook and finish as for a cluster. size 10. Blind stitch three medallions on each side of collar. ' ch 2.s cbetween2clusters. 4.. h d c. ch 4. Blind stitch three medallions on each side of collar as shown in nhotograph ZB.Fasten off. Cut 8" circles of fabric and of lining. Ch 6. 8th row: S c in 1st s c. Make 2" hems at both ends of piece. ch 4 and tr) 6 times. HAT Starting at inner edge of Brim. (. & P. Ch 1. Repeat from * 5 more times. lst rnd: Ch 3. s c in Sth ch from hook. s c in next s c. ch 3. ship 3 d c. 15. . Repeat from * around joining last ch-10 with sI st to 1st s c. page 50 . 11. Repeat from * across. ch 5. Repeat the last row lor Iength desired. roII hem (see n. Insert in casing and trim ends with pompons made from 4" circles (see step 7 under Cap above). cbZ. h d c and s c. * ch 5. 2 d c in next ch holding back the Iast loop of each d c on hook. ch 2. s c in same sn. and Insertion Smarl Headrvork (cont'd lrom page 27) 7. in next free loop on Znd Center make tr. (ch 7. thread over ancl draw through all loops on hook (2 tr cluster). Repeat from + acr:oss.1 balL. s c in next s c. s c in next ch-3 loop. * ch 6. Repeat from " around. pull thread tight. d c in next d c. ch 6. Join.l loops made). ch'tr. MOTIF . in next loop make 3 s c. Join. * ch 10. Ch 4. p. . s c in same sn. ch 1. Crochet abbnoviations. sl st in top of 1st cluster. holding back iast loop of each tr on hook make 2 tr in same sp. lst rnd: Ch 7 (to count as . Coars MnncERrzEDCnocunr. ch 4. ch 1 to Iasten 1a cluster made). stitch 32" sides together. tr in next free ch-2 loop on middle Center. 2nd row: * S c in next loop. sI st i. thread over and draw through all loops on hook (3 tr clusler). s c in next d c (in next sp make s c. Repeat from * across. 3 d c. d c in next d c. Make a iunning stitch close to edge. ch 4. & P. thread over and draw through aII loops on hook.1 ball. d c. sc in next loop. turn. 2 h d c ands c. Join and fasten off. Ch 4. s c in next loop) 3 times. . 2nd rnd: SI st in each ch and between lst 2 clusters. SI st in next free ch-Z loop on 1st Center. .N. Repeat from * 2 rnore umes. s c in next ch" (ch 3. . Attach to ends of tails. Cut a 7" circle of cardboard. (ch 7. 2nd rnd: Sl sl in next ch-2 sp" ch 4.N. 4th row: S c in next loop. ch 5. 3rd rnd: In next loop malie 3 s c. ch 2. 49) edges together. Ch 4. in next ch-Z loop make tr. * 8 sc in next ch-Z loop. * ch 77. Repeat from + around. si in next d c) 5 times. Turn up hem for cuff. Repeat from * 2 more times. ch 7. 7th row: S c in 1st s c. d c and ch 4) * d c in ring. l6-Lacy Crochet Ilrimrned Sailor and Croehet Trimrned Collar MATERIALS FOR CROCHET: Cr-ann's O. * (ch4" (cont'd on page 24) I . 8.22. Ch 1. 49) around 5" circles. To make pompons. ch 2 and d c. in same loop make a 2 tr cluster. Fasten 6ff. s c in ring.T or J. skip 1 ch. in next ch-2 sp make d c. Ch 4. ch 2 and 3 s c. sliip 1 ch. To make tie. lst rnd: Ch 3. Join rvith sI st to form ring. Join with sl st to form ring. d c in next d c. turn.T or J. turn.. turn. d c in next ch. s c in next ch) 4 times. + ch 2.8 or 9. Join with sl st to form a ring being careful not to twist chain. ch-3 loops. Steel crochet hook No. 3 s c in next loop. Join with sl st to 1st st of ch-3 first made. ch 1. cluster between next 2 ciusters. ch 3 and d c: ch 5. ch 4. In each of next 5 l. & P. (ch 6. make a chain /2 inch longer than the headsize of Crorvn. lst row: S c in 5th ch from hook. Ch 6. * Skip 3 ch. place cardboard between. Ch 1.n same place as last d c was made. 3rd rnd: SI st across to next ch-1 sp. 3rd CENTER . 2 h d c. Repeat from * around. Colrs MnncEnrzEDCnocrrnr. 2. Repeat from * 2 more times.I White Coll:rr Class (cont'd lrom Page 17) Dlodalllon lO2-Collar MATERIALS: Cr-ann's O. . ch l. turn. Turn. 3 tr cluster) twice. s c in next s c. 3rd row: S c in next loop. d c in next ch. 12.. ch 3. Open side seam between stitchings to insert tie. Make 5 more motifs same as this. s c in next ch) twice. d c. clt 6.$ d c. 3 d c in next sp. ch 2 and 3 s c. Cr-ann's O. Steel crochet hook No. ch 2. EDGING Malie a chain the Iensth desired. Tie tails in knot. s c in next ch-1 sp. rst CENTER . 3 i c in same loop on 3rd Center. turn. ch Z. Machine stitch. SI st in 1st s c. Hereafter work is clone in rows. s] st in top of joining 2 tr cluster. Next rnd: Sl st in each st to within 1st 2 clusters. skip 1 ch.N. ch 1. . Repeat from * across. 2nd rnd: In each ch-4 sp make s c. size 50. d c in next d c. tr in next loop. Repeat from * across. 3. * ch 4 and make i cluster in 4th ch from hooli.Steel crochet hook No. ch 4 and tr. .und edges of both circles. Tack to shirrinq. in next ch-i loop make tr. 2nd row: S c in next loop * (ch 3. Place both together and seam 16" ends (4 thicknesses) together.T or J. Cut rectangle 16" x 26" from both fabric and muslin.3 d c in next sp. Ch 4. . 10 or 11. 2 d c in sI st holding back on hook the last loop of each d c. sliip 2 ch of ch-6 loop. d c in next ch. d c innext d c.l ch. d. INSERTION Startins at short end" ch 10. ch 4. a ch 7. turn. Coers MencERrzEDCnocrrnr" size 30. Bag 1. Next rnd: SI st to next ch-2 loop. fold in half. lst row: S c in 5th ch from hook. 5th row: With wrong side facing sl st to next ch-1 sp" ch-l.N. s c in ch-3 loop.T or J. sl st in any ch-2 loop of 1st Center. ch 4 and tr) 3 times. lO4-Bdging MATERIALS. ch 1. s c in sarnr place as last sI st. 11 d c in next sp. * ch 2. ch 6. Same as 1st 2nd CENTER Center. (ch 7. size 30. Following rnd: 4. 3rd rnd: + In next loop make 3 s c. (ch 3. h d c. Turn. c in 7th ch from hoo[ ch 3. Run a row of machine stitching through center of one hem to make a casing. 3 d c. Repcal from ' around ending rvith ch 7. Coars MnncERrzEDCnocnrr. s c in next ch) 3 times. ch 1. thread over and draw through aII loops on hook. (ch 3. 3 s c in same loop on 3rd Center. s c in next ch-1 sp. Repeat the last round until brim measures 2/s inches wide. Repeat from Fasten off. ending with 4.4 sc in next loop. s c in next loop. 4th rnd: In each ch-10 sp make s c. overhand (see p. stuff with scraps. . holding back Iast loop of each tr on hook make 3 tr in next sp. lO3-Collar MATERIALS: Cr-anx's O. ch 5.ops make 3 s c.

|FF 1a\9 .S and HATS To make patterns actual size. t I . . One small square : one 1" square. transfer diagrams as shown to large paper marked with 1" squares. e. |\ frffiffit JT.bh t..PATTDRITS for DICKBYS. COLLAR.

to inside of crown. Steel crochet hook No. but do not have increases fall over those of previous increase round. Start_ ing at tip of Crown. s c. 9 l o o p s t l o r 13 rows. Repeat from ' to end of round. Repeat the last row until piece measures 2/a tnches. ch 4. Join and fasten off.r. ch 4. 16). Re_ move. ch 3. Fasten off. 3rd roi: * S c in next loop. ch 4.ch from hook. D o n o t l u r n a t e n d o f 1 g 1 hr o w but work in rounds as follows. & P. in next . . to position ar opposite "9. pc st . . lst row: Attach. Ch 5. Join-to 3rd ch of ch-3. . Ch 5. Repeat the last row until 6 loops remairi. pc st in same sp-.di. buy crinoline sailoi frime in desired shape. lst row: S c in 5th. . Join.20. s c in same loop as last s c) twice. * 2 d c in next d c. rnd: Ch 4_ pc st in same place as sl st rto make a pc st ch i. Join. Fasten off. cluster at tip of next 2 clusters. turn. 12. 7 (directions on p. Ch g. increasing . z ball of any color. ch 41 3 times. un_ til circumference of hat measures 20 Crown Calot Double Casein Crochet Hook No. Ch 3. & P. Join and fasten off. Ch 4. * ch 4.rong side of bfim /2 lncn rn trom edge. Fasten off. s c. (ch . Sew each end of Frill to snood behind beginning and end of $l:Srly Frill keeping short sideJ flat. Ch 4. Re_ peat Irom * to end of rnd" with an s c. ch 2 and pc st (an inc). alli*ing lor Iuilness at corner. Join and fasten off. . Join. cut off brim. turn (another loop decreased). cluster in .-pc st in next st. 3 Thread Snood chain keeping work flat. COLLAR EDGING Make a chain stightly longer than the. i n s e r ti t i n c h p r e c e d i n g 5 d c and draw dropped loop thriugir. 3rd iow: 2 s c in each ch-1 sp across.th ch from hook) twice.on other side of s c. Turn inside edse of crocheted brim up /2'. Continue in this manner. + ch 4. 3rd rnd: Ci 3. * in first half of ioop make tr. turn.lth ch from hook. 2nd. make (tr..1. 14 d c in ring. Coers KNII-CRo-SHEEN. ch 1. * ch 4. ch 6. * ch 2 in next ch-Z sp make pc st.. Attach a triple strand of thread ind work a row of s c closely across foundation Ch 3. ch 1 and tr. skip 2 ch. 2nd row: * S c in next loop. 6.e is noi done in rows instead of rnds. ch 4 and s c. ch 5. R e p e a tf r o m * around (15 pc sts). ch 3. Calot Casein crochet hook No. ("1loop decreased).. 3rd rnd: Ch 4. d c innext T cin. 2 s p " . . FRILL . & P. Join with sl st to form a ring.2 s p . Repeat from * across. Repeat from * around. page dO . ch . (Jse double thread throughout. cluster in 4th ch from hook) twicel lurn. Coers KNrr-Cno-SnrnN. 2nd rnd: Ch 3. joining last ch-2 to top of starting clr. d c in next 4 d c. andblind'irem . the last rnd. in second half of loop . turn.l. lst rnd: Ch 3. 2nd row: t fn next ch_1 sp make tr. skip 2 ch. d c in each d c around. make d. I7-Triple MATERIALS: J. Turn as beJore. s c in nex[ loop) 1 [ times.7. Repeat from + across. 2nd rnd: (Ch 4.i. 14th to lSth rows incl: * S c in next looo" ch 4. Repeat from . Repeat from * across. ch 4. 2nd row: At_ tach thread r3^slrands) 10 15rh Ioop at beginning of previous row. Work without increasing until piece measures 6 inches frori tip of Crown.. Join. ch 4. ch 1. Fasten off_ Weave in all loose ends and fasten them securely.toop make s c. s c in same loop as last s c-7 loop increasefl_ {ch 4. beginning of previous row. Repeat from * across.s c. ch 4. turn. l2th row: 15 c in next loop.. lst rndl Ch 3. s c in next ch) 4. IJse 3 strands throughout. F a s l e n o F f . Join.9:.. p c s t i n n e x t c h . 2o-Open Croehet MATERIALS: J. turn. 4th rnd: 5l st in nexl ch-2 sp. I Pornpadour Eat Steel Crochet Hooh No. s. 2. . R e p e a tf r o m .. Fasten off. to tOth loop al. ch 4.turn. & P.l) 4.. Attach thread (3 strands) to loop at one pin mark and ch 5. (ch 4. ch 3 and make a pc st in same sp. StarclL firm [y. s c in same place as last d c of cluster. ch 1) twice and tr. Ch d1 to measure 12 inches. Sew foundation chain to edge of V-necked collar No. . s c in nexl loop. a r o u n d . 6.* c h 2 .W o r k s t r a i g h t r c h . turn. . outer edge oI collai. ch 4. * ch 2. Measure off 3a/a inches on each side of pin and mark with pins. Repeat from * across. times. No.Repeat wherer-er necessary to keep lvork flai untrl prece measures 6/2 inche: in diameter. Repeat from . s c in next loop.. * ch 3. sl st between same 2 clusters. I-[ desired starc]L Irghtly or sliffen wirlr millinery sizing.4 115 pc sts).p c s t i n n e x t d c . thread 1i strands) to gth loop at beginning-of previous rnd ' ch . ch 4 and s c) 9 times. cover as on p. Ch 4. clt 4. Repeat from i across to pin mark at other side. lst row: * Make a cluster in 4th ch from hook. ch 4. c h l . in next loop make s c. Sew one end of elastic to each end of foundation chain securely. turn.3 r dr o w : A t _ tach thread (3-slrands. For crown. ch 3. balls of any color. 5th rnd: SI st in ch-2 sp.in same c h .1"9_ s i d e o f F r i l l .. s c between next 2 clusters. center pin.' I r o o k . Repeat lrom * across. in next loop make s c. To begin ch 18 to measure 4 inches. Divide the thread into 3 equal balls. o p . . I8-Popcorn MATERIALS: J. Vork "r. ch 2. s c. Coers KNrr-CRo-Suppv batt of ary col.inery wire wi[h grosgrain ribbon and strtch to \a. J o i n w i t h s l s t to 3rd ch of ch-3 first made. t u r n . l9-Frill MATERIALS: J. 1 1 inches of round elastic. IJse a triple thread throughout. ch 4. pc st in same place as sl st. always making 1 ch more in each Ioop on each row until there are 9 ch in each l o . being careful not to twist chain. ch 4. Repeat from * across.1na position on opposite side of Frill. cluster in next ch. s c between next 2 clusters. * 2d c in next ch (1 d c increased). cluster in 4th ch from hookj twice.r. (ch . (ch 4. ch 4 and s c. mak_ ing 3 loops (instead of 2 loops) at -tower corner. lst row: S c in 6th ch from hook. turn (a loop decreased at end of row).c in next loop.24Crochet ebbrevlations. placing full_ ness aI colner. pull into shape and Iay aside to dry thoroughly. Repeat from * aiound. cluster in 4. skip 3 ch. turn. s c. d c in next 8 d c.. Next row: Work as ior last row to within last loop. remove ? l. Repeat from. Coars KNrI-CRo-SrrEEN? 2 balls ol any color. * to . in next loop make s c. FRILL . 2nd. Repeat from * across (16 ioops).Crocheted Brirn & CoIIar (Cont'd from page 22) cluster in 4th ch from hook) twice. d tr in 1ait loop. Starting at top malie a chain 72/g rnches long (8/2 ch sts to 1 inch). Cover a piece of mil. Repeat from * around. around. times. Starch if desired. Ch 1. * (Ch 4. same place as sI st. 2nd rowr S c between 1st 2 clusters. ending with an s c. Repeat the last 2 rnds alternately. d c in next g ch."r1:"9.1. a ch 4.*rl:9. s c in next ch. Next row: S c between 1st 2 clusters. R e p e a t_ [ r o m " t o c o r _ respondrng posttron at opposite side of Frill. Repeat from * across. to llth rows incl: * S c in next loop.t 29 times. tst rnd: (Ch 4. (ch 2. lst row: Find center of foundation chain and mark with a pin. s c rn next loop. ch 4 and s c) 10 times. s c i n n e x t l o o p . Join with sl st to 1st ch made. ch 1 and tr. Repeai from * around. 13th row: {S c in nexl loop. then work_ ing over elastic in order to conceal it make 2 s c in each loop around to where thread was attacled.

s c in loop. d.D cin 4'th ch from hook and in each ch across. tr in 1st s c of 4th rnd. ch 4. s c innext 8 s c. Divide ball of thread into 2 parts. ch 3. s c in next 2 d c. d c in next 2 sps. Place pins on a straight line from the marked points to outer edge of brim. 4th rnd: S c in next 4 s c. Repeat from * around ending with d c in Iast s c of nrevious rnd. s c in next loop) 5 times. (If a larger headsize is desired make a few more increase rnds. page 50 . 3rd rnd: SI st in next d c. Sew peak in place. cut away any wire or other stiffening from outer pdge of brim. 28-Made-Over MATERIALS: Crranwrcr's RBn Hr. Repeat from * around ending with chL. turn. Repeat from * around endirrg with ch 3. Join with sl st. Repeat the last rnd. Place flowers over joining of rouuds and sew securely in place. Number of holes must be a multiole of 6. d c in 1st s c. ball). ch 2. . Coars KNrr-Cno-SnnnN.l inch depth at back. Be very careful not to enlarge Crochet abbrevlations. * ch 3. 7.alie a few more increases. sl st in top of starting ch-3. Ch 5. Cut remainder of brim away leaving the 10 inches for peak at front. s c between next 2 tr. Join and fasten off.. Starch Frill very stiff and press. Jorn and tasten ott. in next sp work tr.) Work without increasing until piece measrres 3/a inches from starting chain. ch 3. . tr in next sp. Repeat from * around ending with ch 2. Repeat from * across. increasing wherever necessary to keep work flat until piece measures 3t/9 inches. 4th rnd: + Clt 2. Steel crochet hook No. . 3rd rnd: S c in each s c around. Repeat from * around. 2 ch. Ch 73. d c in s c. * (d c. ch 2. . ch 2 and d c. Repeat the last 4 rounCs measures 20 until circumference i:eches. in next sp work d c. 1st rnd: S c in ring. join with sl st to form a rinE. Holes are made about every /2 inch apart and about l/e inch in from edge. excepting the center front pin. Work s c in each hole all around back of cap and peak. ending as before. Measure off 5 inches on each side of center pin and mark.j:eches. Clean brim. Brush hat and steam thoroughly over a boiling tea kettle. low worli as follows: lst rnd: S c in each s c around. * ch 4. A large brimm.25. tr in d c. 2l-Closed Croehct MATERIALS: J. Now sl st in each s c around. 4th rnd: S c in loop. S c in loop. d c in 1st s c (18 loops). and next 2 d c. 3rd rnd: * S c in next s c. NotJ: Crochet is worked with double strand of thread throushout. s c in same sp. . Next rnd: With wrong side facing work s c in same holes as last rnd. pulling scallops into shape. c in 1st s c. Place felt brim on head" then trv on crown and see if crown is deeo enough to meet edge of felt. ch 3. Starting at tip of Crown. d c in same place as last d c. Fasten end of Ties where ends of peak join Crown. s c in same place as last sI st. 6th rnd: Repeat 9nd round. 1 inch up from edge. s c in loop) 5 times. ch 3. Join and fasten off. With an embroidery stiletto or sharp pointed scissors pierce holes l/a inch apart and /a inch in from edge. Fasten off. Reoeat from * around. Reneat from * around. 9th rnd: SI st in1p. ch 1. tr in s c. tr in same sp. With right side of cap facing attach yarn in any hole at back of cap. & ts. s c between next 2 s c. 4th rnd: S c in each s c around. 2nd and 3rd rnds: S c in loop. * ch 3. balls ol any color.ed feb hat. It is advisable to have a sharp sewing needle on hand to make holes in felt. Cut along pin markings being careful not to cut into brim. then lay flat on ironing board and press with hot iron through damo cloth. Place pins around hat starting from pin mark at front and graduating pins to . ch 2 and d c. ch 1. sl st in lst s c. repeat the 12th rnd to desired depth. With CROCHETED double strand of thread. Ch 5. d c in next sp.. Tie in a bow at center front. if necessary. in next sp work d c. Ch 2. ch 4. leaving about /s lnch on which to sew crocheted crown. skip 1 ch. Block edging. CROVN . work long s c in same place. * tr in next 2 ch-3 sps. turn. work d c. s c in next loop. d c in 1st s c made (6 loops). ch 2 and d c. Repeat from i around ending with ch 2. With single thread make a chain 13 inches long. lst row: Tr in 6th ch from hook. ch 3. 2 s c in next s c. ch 3 and d c in same place as joining tr. in next sp worh d c. TIES (Make 2) . Measure 4 inches for depth of Crown at back and mark. 2nd rnd: 2 s c in each s c around. long s c in next hole. * (ch 5. Fasten off.. Steel crochet hook No. + 2 s c in next s c.lnr KNrrrrr. in next s c work d c.) Work without increasing until piece measures 5/2 inches Irom tip of Crown. Fasten off. Place inner edge of peak inside Crown matching center front pins. * ch 3. + ch 5. lst rnd: Attach double strand of thread to a hole at center back. ch 2. s c in next sp. 6th rnd: Sl st in sp. tr in same ch. d c in next tr. . turn. d c in s c. Pleat Frill to measure 5 inches and sew to front of Calot. Repeat from * around ending with ch 3. d c in next d c. ch 3 and d c. u. Repeat from * around ending with ch 3. * ch 5. s c in next ch-3 sp) twice. sih rnd: Ch 3. * ch 1. Place a pin at center front of inner edge of brim just cut off. * ch 5. Join. 5th rnd: S c in-each s c around. . Sew crocheted crown in place sev'r'ing crown over edge of felt brim. & P. EDGING . 9 s c in next s c. * ch 1. s c in d c. Do not join rnds. 2nd rnd: S c in loop. Reoeat from * around ending with s c in d c. 2nd rnd: * S c in next 8 s c. 10th rnd: SI st in d c. s c in next loop. lst rnd: 8 s c in Znd ch from hook. 1. d c in next ch-3 sp. Ch 4. sl st in top of starting ch-3. tr in next ch. Repeat from * across. ch 2. Steel Crochet Hook No. s c in next loop. Fasten off. ch 3. turn. ch 1. Ch 1. 3 ch and tr. il st in 1st s c. ch 2 and tr. 2nd and 3rd rows: Tr in next ch-1 sp. Following rnd: Work sl st in each s c of last rnd. . Extend ends of Frill as far as possible on either side and sew to ealot. + d c in next d c. Join round and work a sI st in each d c around.1 ball of any color. ch 5. ch 2 and d c in next loop) twice.ith uery shallout crown. ch 2. Remove trim and headband. 22-Crochct Hat MATERIALS: Trimmed Felt 2 Crown Calot Slngle head opening. Coars KNrI-CRo-SHEEN. If noi. l1th rnd: Sl st in next st. s c in next loop. 6th row: + S c in next sp. d c in joining tr. 4th and 5th rows: Tr in 1st sp. d c in next ch-3 sp. ch 4. 1 baII (1 oz. Repeat from * around ending with sl st in 1st s c. Ch 1. * ch 1. 1. d c in same place as last d c. (ch 5. Edging is worked directly around edge of felt brim. Repeat from * around endins with d c in 1st s c. tr in next sp. (If larger headsize is desired :r. turn. d c in next tr. Allow to drv. s c between the 2 tr. Measure 2/s inches Ior depth of Crown at front and marl< with a pin. Repeat from + around. Remove pins on Crown. ch 3. FRILL . + ch 3. Repeat from * arounil ending with ch 1. ch 5. One old "Pork Pie" hat. Cut away crown of hat. d c in 1st s c made. Curve the corners.qo \Monsmo. Repeat from * around. Repeat from * across. Repeat from * across. 8th rnd: S c in loop. ch 3. 7th rnd:. all along edge of peak and around edge of back of Crown being careful not to tear cap. 12th rnd: S c in loop. Visor Cap J. (ch 5. Also.