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PRESSRELEASEGENEVA

ForImmediateRelease

Geneva|+41229084814|MarieBeatriceMorin |mariebeatrice.morin@sothebys.com London|+44(0)2072936000|MatthewWeigman|matthew.weigman@sothebys.com SimonWarren|simon.warren@sothebys.com|KellySignorelliChaplin|kelly.schaplin@sothebys.com

SOTHEBYSGENEVATOOFFER THEPERSONALJEWELLERYCOLLECTIONOFONEOF THEMOSTIMPORTANTJEWELLERSOFTHE20thCENTURY:

ftx Uxx

Geneva, 5 March 2012 SOTHEBYS GENEVA is pleasedtoannouncethatitwillofferinitssaleof Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels on 14 May 2012 the jewellery collection of one of the most important jewellery designers of the 20th century: Suzanne Belperron (19001983). Comprising over 60 lots, this unprecedented sale features the most significant collection of jewels by Suzanne Belperroninprivatehands.Thejewellerspersonal collection includes some of her most celebrated designsandveryintimateitemswhichillustrateher unique style and creative virtuosity, while also sheddinglightonherlife. Speaking of the sale, David Bennett, Chairman of SothebysJewelleryDepartmentinEuropeandthe Middle East and CoChairman of Sothebys Switzerland, said: Suzanne Belperron is arguably the most talented and influential female jeweller of the 20th century and it is a huge honour to conduct this historicsale.Wearecertainthatthisimportantauctionwillcontributetofurtherhighlighttheimmensetalent ofthisgreatartistandherimportantcontributiontojewellery.
SuzanneBelperronArchivesOlivierBaroin

One of the few female jewellery designers and makers of her time, SuzanneBelperrondedicatedherlifetotheartofjewellery,startingher careeratRenBoivinin1919.Afterhavingcontributedtothesuccess of the Maison Boivin, in 1932 through her association with Bernard Herz, she found the perfect framework within which to develop her unique style. Her daring creations remain today of an extraordinary modernityandcontinuetoinfluencecontemporaryjewellers. From the 1930s to the mid1970s, Suzanne Belperron never stopped creatingjewels.Hercreationsappearedinthemostinfluentialfashion magazinesofthetime,includingVogueandHarpersBazaar,andwere featuredbymajorphotographerssuch
SuzanneBelperronArchivesOlivierBaroin

as Cecil Beaton, George Hoyningen

HueneandHorstP.Horst.Herprestigiouscosmopolitanclienteleconsistedof royal families, aristocrats, industrial tycoons, financial magnates, Hollywood stars,aswellasmembersoftheintellectualandartisticelite.Itwasnotrare toseeinSuzanneBelperronsParisianprivatesalonsat59,rueChateaudun, the Duke and the Duchess of Windsor, Colette, Jean Cocteau, Nina Ricci, JeanneLanvin,ElsaSchiaparelliorGaryCooper.

Mystyleismysignature
Suzanne Belperron never signed her jewels, considering that their originality made them immediately identifiable. Similarly, she never opened a boutique, relying on the wordofmouth of her prestigious clients and receiving them exclusivelyonappointment. ThepiecesthatSuzanneBelperrondesignedforherselfareemblematicofher oeuvre.Theyreflecthermanysourcesofinspirationandinnovativeapproach to jewellery, which constitute the essence of her work. One of the most intimatejewelsofherpersonalcollectionisperhapsherengagementring.Createdin1923,thisYinand Yangringinhammered22caratgoldissetwithanoldminediamondofferedfortheoccasionbyher futurehusband,JeanBelperron.TestamenttotheartistsearlyfascinationfortheAfricancivilisationand craftsmanship, this ring in 22 carat yellow gold a warm and intense gold that she called or vierge (virgingold)wasmadethroughthetechniqueofmartelage(hammering).Thedesignofthisring has inspired many other signature pieces in virgin gold by Suzanne Belperron during her career (est. $12,00018,000,illustratedabove).

Suzanne

Belperron

introduced

unprecedented combinations of stones and minerals in her designs, creating pieceswithexceptionalcontrasts. Her creations often combine diamonds andhardstones,asseeninacarvedrockcrystalring inset with a large navette diamond (est. $50,000

80,000, illustrated right and above) and an iconic


brooch in similar materials and design of descendingscrollsthatshewasoftenphotographed wearing (est. $50,00080,000, illustrated p.2 and
SuzanneBelperronArchivesOlivierBaroin

right).
SuzanneBelperronwasveryfondofpearls,whichsheusedinsomeofher finest pieces. In circa 1935, she designed a ring mounted in platinum and whitegold,composedofmulticolourednaturalpearls,aswellasoldmine andbaguettediamonds(est.$30,00040,000,illustratedleft). Other examples of Suzanne Belperrons innovative aesthetic are to be found in a white agate Nuage (cloud) ring, set with two triangular diamonds(est.$20,00030,000,illustratedleft)andabraceletmountedin palladium and platinum set with oldmine diamonds (est. $40,00060,000, illustrated right).

A Fleur brooch in yellow gold, set with a cushionshaped yellowsapphiresurroundedbyyellowdiamondsofdifferent shapesandcoloursshowsheruniqueabilitytoplaywiththe coloursandshadesofstones,whiledrawinginspirationfrom nature(est.$40,00050,000,illustratedleft). Some of her floral designs became extremely stylised, as exemplified by another Fleur brooch, mounted in gold and platinumandcomposedofacutcorneredsapphireandtwooval cabochon sapphires, enhanced with diamonds (est. $50,000 80,000, illustrated below). A photograph of the artist shows her wearingthisbroochattheendofthe1960s. SuzanneBelperronnotonlycreatedjewelsandaccessoriesforthemostelegantwomenofhertime,shealso designedpiecesofjewelleryforgentlemen.Herpersonalcollectioncontainsaselectionofcufflinksinprecious orsemipreciouscabochonstonesmostprobablycreatedforherhusband,JeanBelperron.Examplesincludea pairmadeofsquarechrysopraseplaquesstuddedwithasmalldiamondinthemiddleandanotherfeaturing squarecornelianplaquesadornedwithcabochonemeralds(est.$8,00012,000,illustratedbelow).

AnArtistsLife
SuzanneBelperronsprivatecollectionalsoincludesjewels by other prestigious makers (including Faberg and Cartier)andpiecesofanintimatenature,givingaunique insightintoherprivatelife.StartinghercareerintheParis of the Golden Twenties, Suzanne Belperron evolved amongkeyfiguresoftheavantgardemovementandthe intellectual elite of the time. Testament to her friendship to Jean Cocteau is an exquisite yellow gold documentclipofferedtoSuzanneBelperronbythepoetandreadinginhisfacsimilehandwritingnepleurez pas(dontcry)ononesideandjereviendrai(Iwillreturn)ontheother(est.$1,5002,000,illustrated above).

AllthejewelsinthiscollectionarefeaturedinthemonographSuzanneBelperronbySylvieRauletandOlivier Baroin(AntiqueCollectors'Club,2011,352pages).


SALE SOTHEBYSGENEVA HtelBeauRivage,13quaiduMontBlanc,1201Geneva JewelsFromthePersonalCollectionofSuzanneBelperron Monday14May2012,10am MagnificentJewels&NobleJewels,14&15May2012 Information:+41229084800 PUBLICEXHIBITION SOTHEBYSGENEVA HtelBeauRivage,1115May2012 1113May(10am6pm) 14MaySelectionofjewels(10am6pm) 15MaySelectionofjewels(10am4pm)

ALLPRESSRELEASESAREPUBLISHEDONWWW.SOTHEBYS.COM IMAGESAREAVAILABLEONREQUEST
**Presaleestimatesdonotincludebuyerspremium VentedirigeparleMinistredeMatresClaudeNavilleetMarcoBreitenmoser,HuissiersJudiciaires.

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