Arrowheads.

Arrowheads.
Steel points.
Today there is a wide choice of steel for use on broadhead points, such as 1040 to 1095 annealed spring steel. (what is the difference? The last two numbers denote the carbon content of the steel: ie, 1the 1095 has over twice the carbon content of 1040 and should hold a sharper edge.)

Alternatives.
Alternatively blades can be made from old saw blades, large bad saw blades, spring steel, annealed steel, stainless steel, copper, brass, aluminium - anything that can hold a sharpened edge, but at the same time is strong enough not to fold or bend on impact. Cutting the material is the next problem. Commercial broadheads are cut on machine/hand operated shears. Some materials can be cut with metal cutters but will tend to make the edge concave on one side convex on the other. For this reason the 2.5 inch layout will allow up to twenty percent loss of the blade during straightening, heat treating, and sharpening, the broadhead to a point. A standard bench grinder and file will shape the blank and bevel the edge. When making steel blades, be sure all shaping and beveling is totally finished before heat treatment. Heat the blade to an orange colour, applying heat to both sides to help prevent warping. Quench the blade immediately in heattreating oil such as motor oil. (If the carbon steel sparks, you are over heating the material. Once treated, the steel will be very hard. Use a file to cut across the edge of the point and gauge the temper of the steel. If the file will not cut, the edge of the point may be too hard and brittle. The broadhead can be re-heated until an orange colour again, but this time air cooled. Which will soften the steel.

Blade designs.

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Arrowheads.

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Arrowheads.

Securing the broadhead
Below two methods for securing broadheads to the arrow shaft. A metal ferrule (left) supports the shaft and prevents splitting upon impact. Wrapping the point's tang with wire or strong cord (right serves the same purpose.

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Arrowheads.

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