Instructions for Spring Pocket Kit Read these instructions completely before beginning installation of the spring pocket

kit. If you plan on pulling the body off the chassis, it will make installation far easier, but it can be done either way. There are two sets of instructions: one for cars with body off or on chassis and one additional sheet for bare chassis installations. Instructions for Cars with Body on Chassis 1. Spot car and set on jack stands or lift to have access to removal of entire rear suspension and gas tank. Ramps for front tire for stability is a good idea. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable if applies. 3. Remove any wiring, lines, cables, padding and any other combustible materials in areas where cutting, grinding and/or welding will be performed. 4. Prepare areas of modifications around spring mounts on chassis by using wire brush, scraper etc. to eliminate grease, paint, undercoat etc. The cleaner the better. 5. Find some scrap pieces of metal to wedge between frame rails and floorboard to further protect body and interior from heat generated by cutting, grinding and welding. 6. Using a cutting torch, plasma cutter, etc. remove front and rear spring perch/hangers. Note: 1-piece frames weld rear hangers while common 2-piece frames rivet them. Make a reference measurement from rear perch centerline to rear cross-member for use later. Torch off rivet heads and drive through with a punch where you can reach. Don’t get too aggressive with the hammer or air chisel or you will distort the frame rail where rivets intersect. After removing rear perches, mark outside of frame rail using a square and awl with centerline of new spring perch bracket. Should be about 11” from rear edge of rear frame channel (that connects frame rails) to centerline of perch. 7. Layout cuts for front spring pockets on bottom frame surface by transferring measurements off pocket itself. Pocket should be mounted all the way up against inside top frame surface. 1 & 2 piece frame vary spring bolt location, that’s why there’s two holes to choose from. Pockets should be parallel to main frame rail and make sure bolt holes are square in frame and in same location as stock hangers had them. I use a piece of ½” diameter rod to align both pockets with each other before tack welding in several places. I recommend using a

plasma cutter, sawsall or Makita type 4” cutting blade to notch frame rails for pocket. Note: Only the bottom surfaces of the frame rails are removed – not sides. The spring pockets will fit inside when trimmed correctly. Take your time! You’ll have better welding results and will fit better. When you have it right and tacked, finish welding all around. Use TIG or MIG welding processes performed by a skilled craftsman only. 8. To align rear perches, hang leaf springs in front pockets and assemble rear shackle assembly to rear spring eye using lower shackle holes so spring will clear bottom of frame rails. Center perches over reference centerlines you marked earlier and make sure shackles straddle the same distance away from outside frame rail surfaces. Note: Shackle perches may need to be trimmed on one side on 2-piece frames to fit properly. A little grinding will do the job. Tack weld when you’re satisfied with the fit and alignment. Remove springs and bushings and complete welding wherever you can reach. Note: The spare tire wells vary in location from car to car. You will probably need to cut an access panel in outboard side of well. Sometimes there’s enough clearance for shackle travel without cutting or dimpling tire well. If you can live without the spare tire well, it’s easy to remove and install a panel to cover the opening. We make one for this purpose. Shackle bolts should point inboard for removal purposes with gas tank and spare tire well in place. Note: I recommend boxing in ends of spring perches for extra strength with body on frame installations use (4) pieces of 3/16” x 2 ½” cold rolled steel. 9. Rear frame notch inserts fit up inside frame rails and about 1 ¾” – 2” from top of frame. It should go rearward far enough to allow for spring travel or spring eye will bottom out. You should have clearance for rear spring eye to go in upper hole on shackles at top of rear of notch with weight on car. 10. To install spring pads on axle housing, first remove old brackets and grind and prepare housing for welding with leaf springs in place and tightened snug, set new spring pads on springs pins then center housing from side to side. Pinion angle should be about 2° degrees down from transmission centerline. You may need to enlarge pinholes in spring pads to fit over spring pins. Bolt housing to spring with u-bolts for a trial and error process to establish correct pinion angle. Use floor jack on housing to load weight on springs. Be careful here using a backup set of jack stands. Set housing on a pair of jack stands and check pinion angle. Repeat process as necessary until right angle and side to side dimensions are set. I recommend using a plum device off of the outer fender-wells to center the housing to ensure equal tire to fender-well clearance from side to side. The body isn’t usually centered on the frame from side to side and will cause you problems, especially when tire rd clearance is extra critical. Again, take your time! A bare axle housing with just the 3 member is easier to work with. Tack weld pads to housing in several places. Remove housing and complete welding in a fixture if possible. If there isn’t a fixture available, take your time and allow cooling between welding passes. Axle seals will need replacement from heat. 11. Paint and detail components as desired, reassemble rear suspension completely. Shackle bolts should be good and tight. Bushings should pivot in rear leaf spring eye, as they can vary in I.D.

Additional Instructions for Bare Chassis Installation 1. Flip chassis upside down to have easier access to installing pockets once all old spring brackets are removed. Note: Extra care must be taken here to support frame adequately so it won’t sag when cutting and welding pockets and rear perches and spring notch inserts. Support frame in (6) places when installing components. 2. Weld rear shackle perches completely before notching frame for spring inserts. Do one insert completely at a time before cutting frame and doing other – Don’t do both notches at the same time and take your time with the welding. Check for any frame movement often along the way.

For installation quotes and technical assistance please call. (909)392-1358