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A. H Rahul
firstname.lastname@example.org Hot line:01711-474748
Related with TRADE
GLv‡b TRADE = Buying & Selling. RGM = Ready met Garments Manufacturing GMT = Garments Manufacturing Technique MZ 2007-2008 Bs A_©eQ‡i evsjv‡`‡ki ißvbxi 78% ˆe‡`wkK gy`ªv Av‡m Mv‡g©Ý †_‡K hv 14.1 wewjqb gvwK©b Wjvi| Material Garments Ready met Garments Process
1. Fibre (KvuPv gvj) †_‡K Yarn (myZv) ˆZwi nq †h me KviLvbvq †m me ¸‡jv‡K Spinning Mill e‡j| 2. Yarn (myZv) ‡_‡K Knit Wear ˆZwi nq †h me KviLvbvq †m me ¸‡jv‡K Knit wear mill e‡j| 3. Grey fabric (eY©wenxb) ‡_‡K Finishing ch©š— ˆZwi nq †h me KviLvbvq †m me ¸‡jv‡K Dying/printing/ Finishing mill e‡j| 4. Kvc‡oi wdwbwks †_‡K Rvgv ch©š— ˆZwi nq †h me KviLvbvq †m me ¸‡jv‡K Garments Industry ev Apparel Industry e‡j| Avi D‡jL¨ †h, 1, 2 I 3 bs mvwii me ¸‡jv‡K Textile mill e‡j|
1. T- Shirt = (mvavibZ Kjvi nq bv) 2. Polo shirt = (mvavibZ Kjvi nq ) 3. Shorts/Half pant 4. Pant/Trouser Avevi †`Lv hvq ‡h, T-shirt Mjv `yB ai‡bi ev Zvi †P‡q †ekx n‡Z cv‡i †hgb t Round neck/V- neck
Most of fibre/Yarn
1. Cotton (N) 5. Silk [N (a)] 9. Linen (N) 2. Polyester (M.M/S) 6. Acrylic(M.M/S) 10. Ramil(N) 3. Nylon (M.M/S) 7. Wool [N (a)] 4. Rayon/Viscose (M.M/S) 8. Jute (N) GLv‡b, N = Natural ,A = Animal, M.M = Man made, S = Synthetic. GKgvÎ Rayon/Viscose hv Natural row material ‡K process Gi gva¨‡g ˆZwi Kiv nq e‡j G‡K Regenerate yarn e‡j | D‡jL¨ †h, Natural yarn G limit _v‡K ( without silk) Avi, Synthetic yarn G †Kvb limit _v‡K bv| Natural yarn ‡K ejv nq = Staple yarn Synthetic yarn (with silk) ‡K ejv nq = Filament yarn
Knit wear + woven production Process
Horizon Interlacing process yarn 1. Aek¨B 1 †mU I 1 †mU K‡i `yB †mU myZv jvM‡e| 2. Woven Gi Kvco Inter lacing c×wZ‡Z ˆZwi nq| (1 †mU Ver: 1 †mU Hori: myZv GKUvi wfZi Av‡iKwU XywK‡q †Zwi Kiv Kvco‡K Inter lacing c×wZ e‡j|) 3. Uvb‡j j¤^v nq bv| 4. Woven Kvco Woven Mechanism c×wZ‡Z ˆZwi nq|
Inter Looping Process ïay gvÎ 1 †mU myZv w`‡q ˆZwi nq| Knit Gi Kvco Inter looping c×wZ‡Z ˆZwi nq| (1 †mU myZv c¨vPv‡q c¨vPv‡q †Zwi Kiv Kvco‡K Inter looping c×wZ e‡j|) Uvb‡j j¤^v nq | Knit Kvco Knit Mechanism c×wZ‡Z ˆZwi nq|
YARN (Knit fabric (KG `‡i wKbv nq|)
Finer ( wPKb)
Gram per square miter (GSM)
100% Cotton on the basic of fabric 2. 20/2 or 20/3 or 20/4 20/ ply/plied yarn ( 2 or 3 or 4 = Ply/ plied yarn) Ply yarn use in for thread / Sewing fabric. 4.03 Hanks Tex: 1000 Miter myZv ev Yarn Gi IRb hZ MÖvg myZvi Tex ZZ MÖvg| (Tex Gi msL¨v hZ †ekx myZv ZZ †ekx †gvUv) Example: Yarn Tex is 23 means 1000 miter Yarn 23 Gram. IRb x 100 MÖvg ( awi IRb 2.26. metric number(Nm) International wn‡me& | Count : 840 MR myZv w`‡q ‰Zwi nq1 Hank Ges 1 cvDÛ IR‡b hZ Hanks myZvi Count (+ -Accepted ) ZZ n‡e| Example: Yarn count is 17 means (count Gi msL¨v hZ †ekx myZv ZZ wPKb n‡e) 1 pound 17. 100% Nylon 7. metric number(Nm).40) 20/1 or 24/1-----------.1. Denier.20/S. CVC Garments Fabric Yarn 6.KvUvi wbw`ó cwigv‡ci Kvco Kv‡U hvi e¨vm 11. Knitwear count use (20. 100% Acrylic 9. Tex. 3. 100% Wool 8. 1.34.(40/2. 100% Rayon / Viscose Fibre .use in knitwear. 30/S ( 1 = S = Single of Yarn) Other one is . 60/2 ) Quality is the customer satisfaction 1. 100% polyester 3. Avgv‡`i †`‡k Count System Gi cÖPjb †ekx | Tex. 50/2 . T/C 5. OR. Kvco †K‡U ( Cutter Gi gva¨‡gt. 2. Denier. Count. 65% Polyester 35% Cotton 4.24. Digital Balance (GK ai‡bi IRb gvcvi †gwkb) 3.1 MÖvg x 100 ) Yarn numbering Unit of yarn numbering.1 †mtwgt ) 2. P/C.30.
65% Polyester 35% Cotton: ( Mixed yarn is called = Blended yarn) 4. 100% Cotton: There are two kinds of cotton (A) Carded cotton. (Mélange yarn must be mixed with viscose Yarn) Mélange Yarn are many kind they are 1. CVC means more than 50% cotton. 6. 2. Iffle Fabric.Regular. 80/20/ 70/30. 7. Cotton + Viscose 98% cotton 2% Viscose = Ecru yarn Or 85% cotton + 15% Viscose =Grey yarn Lycra: Is one kind of Elastic yarn (300 – 800 elasticity) Lycra is trade of Du pont Company (USA) It used in 3 to 7%. 4. Slub Yarn : ‡Kv_vI †gvUv †Kv_vI wPKb GB ai‡bi Yarn †K Slub Yarn e‡j | GB ai‡bi Yarn jeans pant G †ekx e¨envi nq| Slub Yarn `yB ai‡bi 1. Tatron is the brand name of Polyester ) 3. 2. Irregular. Grey 5. 5. Yellow 4. DYED yarn ( is Kiv ) | Basic knit wear fabric Mechanism There are many kind of knit fabric in the world. pink 3. Most common of mixed of P/C = 65/35. 100% polyester : (100% yarn is called = Solid yarn. Interlock Fabric. our country have mainly used in 7 itrm \ Fabric as show in below: 1. Mélange yarn = Blended Yarn . P/C means more than 50% polyester. Blue 2. CVC: Chief Value of cotton.1. Single jersey plain fabric. 2. (A) Carded cotton Many process 100 kg Row material (B) Combed cotton Many process + With combed Ma: Yarn 70 kg Combed yarn 100 kg Row material Yarn 75 kg Carded yarn (Hairy yarn) Combed /Carded yarn me †P‡q fvj KviY G‡Z DbœZ cÖhyw³ e¨envi Kiv nq Ges Combed Gi †¶‡Î combed M/C e¨envi nq hvi Kvi‡b 1/2 BwÂ Gi †QvU myZvi KvPv gvj e¨envi nq bv | ZvB Combed ¸bMZ gvj fvj Ges `vg I †ekx| 2. Ecru Etc. 1. If 50% Cotton + 50% other mixed with fabric that called Union Yarn. Stripe Fabric Loop Mechanism Row/Course/Waft (Only Mosquito net) . 3. Pique Fabric. GREY yarn (is Qvov ). Rib Fabric. Lacoste Fabric. (B) Combed cotton.
6 gram. Measured usually as WPC or WPI. Cam. 16 ozs= 1 pound. CPI= Course per inch. Measured usually as CPC or CPI. (b) Lacoste. 3. Sinker. 1 kg=2. Pique: Lacoste: Loop. Loop length: The length of yarn in a loop . WPI= Wale per Inch. Single Jersey Made on one set of needles in the machine. Usually expressed in CM. CPC=Course per Centimeter. 1yds=36(inch). Needle 1 ‡mU j¤^v jw¤^ fv‡e _v‡K| Single jersey are two kinds (a) Pique. WPC= Wale per Centimeter. 2. 4. Tuck cam.Column/Wale/Warp(All knit Fabric) Course: A row of loop across the width of the fabric. some parts of knitting matching are follow: 1. Always different each other side. Needle. Single jersey fabric look face side and inside is not same. Loop Density : The number of loop per unit area. Machine Gauge=24-28. Knit cam. Cylinder. (Avgiv pique fabric loop ‡Mvj †`‡L wPb‡ev ) Knit cam and tuck cam mechanism G ˆZwi Kiv nq| Loop (Avgiv lacoste fabric loop Qq †KvbvKvi †`‡L wPb‡ev ) Knit cam + tuck cam Gi gvSLv‡b knit cam ewm‡q mechanism G ˆZwi Kiv nq| Needle (GKUv †gwk‡b A‡bK wb‡Wj _v‡K GB wb‡Wj mvwii g‡a¨ wbw`ó †Kvb bv¤^v‡ii wb‡Wj Wªc w`‡q †h wWRvBb ˆZwi Kiv nq ZvB Wªc wb‡Wj wWRvBb| †hgbt cÖwZ 5Uv wb‡Wj cici 1Uv K‡i wb‡Wj Wªc K‡i ˆZwi Kiv nq|) . OZS= Per square Yds( OZS= Ounces). (CPC x WPC) Area Density: The weight of loop per unit area. 1 Pound= 453. Wale: A column of loop along the length of the fabric.2046 LBS(LBS=Pound). 1 miter= 39.37(inch) etc. Mechanism Different: One machine have many parts.
Rib Uvb‡j j¤^v nq| `yB †mU wb‡Wj gyLvgywL _v‡K bv hv wP‡Î †`Iqv Av‡Q| most of rib used in 1x1. 5x5 etc. Rib Loop Mechanism Needle 2. (c) Waffle(Tharmat). 2x2. 3 x 3 Rib (Two needle gap each mechanism) Loop Mechanism 4. There are two kind of stripe fabric are (a) Feeder stripe. (b) Interlock. Double jersey fabric look face & inside is same. Rib machine gauge 16-18. Stripe Fabric . Bra etc. Needle position is Zigzag ( AuvKvevKv). Double jersey plain Needle 1 set j¤^v jw¤^ fv‡e I Ab¨ 1 †mU AvovAvwo fv‡e _v‡K| 1. wear. 3x3. Made on two sets needles in the machine. 2 x 2 Rib (one needle gap each mechanism) Loop mechanism 3. 2x1. Needle position is face to face.(a) Rib. Interlock Uvb‡j j¤^v nq bv | `yB †mU wb‡Wj gyLvgywL _v‡K hv wP‡Î †`Iqv Av‡Q| Interlock machine Gauge 22-24. (b) Engineer stripe. Sports. 2 x 1 Rib (One needle gap after three Needle each mechanism) Loop Mechanism Rib used in cuff & collar. 3x2. Double jersey have three kind. Underwear.Plain Rib or only rib or 1 x 1 rib. Interlock Needle position Interlock used in Trouser.
of feeders (No.( ‡Kvb wbw`ó stripe w`‡q ïi“ K‡i K‡qKwU bZzb stripe ˆZwi Kivi ci c~Yivq Av‡Mi wWRvB‡b (stripe)wd‡i hvIqv‡K Repeat length e‡j| Stripe need must be two kind of yarn. of cons) =20 to 120 Engineer stripe machine look like embroidery machine. So engineer stripe have Black no limit. Rib. 4. (2) Machine gauge(No. No. Interlock. It is 100% Red Computerize machine. GSM 130-135. S/J 1.of needle per inch/loop Gi NbZ¡ †K eySvq).30/s yarn. of feeders (no. Stripe Kivi Rb¨ 5/6/7 wb‡Wj cici 1/2/3 Uv wb‡Wj †fwbk K‡i wWRvBb Kiv nq| Knit wear fabric specification Finished GSM of the fabric. Dia miter= 12 to 60 inch(20 to 40 are common 90%) No. S/J fabric. Loop position: Face side Back side 2. Machine Specification 1. Loop position : Face side Back side Rib 1. it control the needle and feeder.100% cotton. (Repeat length) Red Engineer stripe: Fabric repeat length 4 inch Gi †ekx n‡j ZvB Engineer stripe. Fabric GSM vs Yarn count Factor related to GSM –(1) Yarn count. Fiber . Feeder stripe: Fabric repeat length 4 inch g‡a¨ n‡j ZvB feeder stripe. 2.Loop in both side Interlock 1.of cons) = 60 to 144 ( wb‡Wj ¯’vc‡bi RvMqv †K feeders e‡j|) Machine Gauge = 16-28 Machine Efficiency=80% to 95%. Loop position: Face side Back side 2. Finished fabric. For example:. Black Dia miter=20 to 40 inch. Loop in both side . 3. Yarn. (3) Yarn tension (loop Gi height Kwg‡q †`qv ev evwo‡q †`qv) | GB wZb cw×wZi gva¨‡g Avgiv Kvc‡oi GSM evov‡Z ev Kgv‡Z cvi‡ev| wb‡gœ KZ evov‡bv ev Kgv‡bv hv‡e Zvi GKwU ZvwjKv †`IqvtYarn 30/s 26/s 24/s 20/s 40/s 34/s Yarn count with M/C gauge 24 130-140 155-160 175-180 190-200 95-100 110-120 Yarn count with M/C gauge 28 150 170 190 210 110 125 Comparative different between S/J.
cuff. Sports wear. 3. Dyeing process: Water + (Dyed) + Chemicals 1. C/R no. Navy blue 3. 2. Below 1% shad Over 1 to 3% shad Over 5% to ---Total Shad percent Dark Color: = Light shad = Medium shad = Dark shad = (0. T/polo shirt body fabric 3. patter : Stripe [Yarn dyeing – Knitting. collar 3. C/R no. (2) Printing. Coloration ways: (1) Dyeing. 4. Soda Ash.2. 4. 4.Fabric (stripe)] Patter : Solid [ Yarn dyeing – knitting – solid color fabric] patter : Solid [Grey yarn. ------------------------ Machine + Fabric+ Water+ Dyes+ Chemicals=Dyes Solution (Chemicals = Salt.knitting – dyeing-solid color fabric] Fabric dyeing & Yarn dyeing Gi g‡a¨ cv_©K¨ eyS‡Z n‡j Kvco †_‡K †h †Kvb GKwU myZv †ei K‡i †`L‡Z n‡e cy‡iv myZvUvB hw` GKB Kvjvi g‡b nq Zvn‡j Yarn dyeing Avi mvgvb¨ cv_©K¨ _vK‡j Fabric dyeing . Textile Material – Fabric / Yarn / Fibre / Garment. Loop in 1 side. Curling/rolling happened 4. For example:.001 to 12%) 1. Printing: To apply color on surface. Yarn Dyeing. Garment Dyeing.7% ) Dyed cost 1.Neck. Red 4. 3. For White = 32 to 40 Taka per KG . Acid . Black 2. Green ( Shad 8 – 12%) (Shad 0 – 7%) (Shad 0 – 7%) (Shad 0. Dyeing: To apply color on both side. Fabric Dyeing. Softener sequestering Agent) M: L = Material : Liquored 100 kg : 900 liter water Quality of dyes required for particular yarn or Fabric is called shad percentage. underwear Coloration Coloration means to apply color on textile materials. Fibre Dyeing .1% Shad 1 kg dyes required for 100kg yarn or fabric.
10. Dyed Fabric.Wings. Piece dyed Fabric. 7. For Other color = 90 to 120 Taka per KG = 70 to 75 Taka per KG Knitting cost 1. 6. Finished Fabric. 9. 2. Cross dyed Fabric = T/C. Rib/ Interlock 3. Mercerized Fabric = Same as 2 no process + NaoH for Shining Fabric (D¾jZv evov‡bvi Rb¨) 8. With lycra S/J or D/J = 7 to 9 Taka per KG = 15 to 18 Taka per KG = 13 to 15 Taka per KG = 14 to 26 Taka per KG = 80 to 200 Taka per KG = 18 to 30 Taka per KG = 15 to 35 Taka per KG = 2 to 2. 2.Jet and 3. Pique / Lacost 4.2. White Fabric = Same as 2 no process + Whitening Agent (Optical Brightener) 9. Bleached Fabric. Piece dyed Fabric = Same as 3 no process ( it is always Solid color dyed) 6. Printed Fabric : Bleached Fabric G color paste Gi gva¨‡g bloke Ges Skin print nq| Knitting Machine extractor Machine Washing/Dyeing machine(with shop/detergent) Hydro Dryer Calendaring Finished Fabric Fabric Inspection . Stripe (Engine) 6. There are three kinds of Dyeing Machine :1. Cross dyed Fabric.Polyester dyes by Disperse dyes. 3. Bleached Fabric= 1 no process same + Bleaching Powder + H2O2 ( It is always White) 3. First Cotton and than Polyester. Mercerized Fabric. Single jersey 2. 8. Scoured Fabric. Printed Fabric. White Fabric.5.2. 11. Grey fabric. 1. 4.50 $ = 18 to 25 $ Yarn Cost : Most of Yarn Lycra/Elastic Yarn Dyeing & Printing 1. Drop needle 7. Dyed Fabric = 2 no process + Dyed 4. Stripe (feeder) 5. Scoured Fabric=Grey fabric+Water+Shop/Detergent + Calendaring (B¯¿x) =Scoured Fabric. For Black 3.P/C dyed. 7. Yarn dyed Fabric = (‡ccvi wUD‡ei myZvi †KŠb _v‡K c‡i Zv †gUvj wUD‡e ¯’vbvš—i Kiv nq Ges Gi g‡a¨ †gwk‡b is Kiv nq hv Ab¨ wUD‡e †KŠb ˆZwi K‡i|) 5. Yarn dyed Fabric.
100 eM©M‡Ri g‡a¨ penalty point 40 n‡j Normal or †ekx n‡j Reject .2. Calculation : Sl. r = Radius (e¨vmva©) 2. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Defects Slub Hole Hole Hole Shading Shading Loop missing Length defects 0-3 inch up to -1 inch Over 1-3 Inch 10 inch 7 inch 8 inch 40 inch No.5. Measuring Tape 3.6. Production technique procedure and cut & sew knitwear 1. Production in miter/Hours = x Efficiency = Time Require for knitting. 2.Hole.Loop Missing(Needle marks). of defects 5 6 3 2 2 4 1 penalty point 5x1=5 6x2=2 3x4=12 2x4=8 2x4=8 4x3=12 4+2=6 Total = 61 Formula (Result) Point/100 Yds2 = X X 100 GLv‡b D‡jL¨ GB †h. Measure the length of defects. Red sticker (arrow sticker for indicate fault). Cutting section : Marker making Fabric spelling Fabric Cutting Send to sewing. Process : 1. Defects :1.Slub. 4.Fly Yarn. No. Arm Hole Chest . Calculate Production in Miter per shift of 12 hours of a knitting machine.0 point system approve by American Apparel Manufacturer Association (AAMA). Needle = 2Лr x Gauge.3. Identify the defects and put red sticker. Sewing section: Garment assembling Garments inspection.Oil spot. Fabric inspection : Always follow 4. Fabric inspection tools: 1. 2. Reporting Sheet.Shading. No.4. Finishing section: Ironing accessories attached checking poly packing cartooning. Production Calculation 1. of Needle ? Ans: Calendar= 2Лr . 3. Sample section: Sample develop pattern grading 2.
Shrinkage(msKzwPZ). Measurement(PvU© ). 3. 6. ½ chest=45 cm 3.GSM. 5. Pant etc. Paper sketch (Qwe). 4.) 1. Color fastness.Fabric details. 3. Chest=90 cm 2. 7. Accessories details. 5. Elongation (Kvco j¤^v nIqv) Buyer Dealings Merchandiser responsibilities: Should Received product package from buyer (Shirt/T-shirt. 2. CBL = 75 cm 4. Other.2.Central back length Neck Sleeve length T-Shirt 1. Packing details. Neck = 42 cm Pattern : Make by hard drawing paper. Knit fabric problem solving Knit fabric problem: 1. Stitches (Plain/over lock). Arm hole=40 cm 5. 4. GB †cÖvWv± c¨v‡KR cvIqvi ci †m¤új ˆZwi Ki‡Z n‡e| Buyer Dealings Paper Sample making Not ok Comment from buyer Approved sample Price negotiation FOB +CM . Marker : A paper/fabric for cut fabric. Color shading.
Mosiur Rahman Back waist line Front waist line Crotch/front side Thigh Knee line ---------Inseam Leg opening Knit wear fit and style analysis .(Free on board+ cost of Making) Or Direct cost Always 20% of Direct cost Always 5% of Direct cost indirect cost Profit Make final cost for buyer Order confirmation Received Order sheet Material collection Master L/C Back to Back L/C (for buy material) Testing & inspection Production 3 stage If 1/3 production completed than email to buyer Buyer checked final inspection Shipment Teacher: D.
(6) High point shoulder HPS.There are various style of knit garment T-shirt like as-(1) Body fitting Y-shirt. length Style mainly depends on them. Operational sequence of production: Merchandising Pre-order merchandising (Marketing) Buyer search Inquiring received Pricing Negotiation Order Confirmation Post merchandising (Execution) Order trims/ACC/Fabric Fabric trims/ACC: Approval Row material in house Production-Shipment Payment receive-File closing.(3) pleatted opening style. THEM Mood Inspiration Source Knitwear tops variation. leas use wear. (3) Reglah T-shirt. Style variation: 1.(3) Waist line.(2) Cowl neck top style. (7) Chest line. (3) Side seam. Different sewing method and machine layout and stitch. (2) Princess line. underwear. Dress are two type : 1) Casual 2) Formal Casual-Sport wear. Formal-Shirt. (8) Hip line. 5. 3. fur.(1) Gather in princess line top style. Style is nature of human being.4. (4) Bottom opening. woven. (5) Shoulder point. Material-Knit. print/dyeing/embroytary. Value addition. (4) Layerd opening style. Body name of T-Shirt (1) Centre front CF.(5) Woodek T-shirt. (10) Bust line. 2. every responsibility & handling of all kinds of specifications to shipment process and file closing are of Buyer. place. . What is apparel / Knitwear merchandising? From order collection to file close. Shape . Color. (4) Tetrale Neck T-shirt.(2) Easy T-Shirt. (9) Neck line.
Side seam. A Chart of Machine mechanism & production Name Machine Single needle Double needle Over lock Pead of the arm / cylinder Kansai/Multi needle Normal button hole Bar taking Flat lock Eyelet hole Fusing Snap attach Button attach Strait knife cutting Metal detector Type of stitch Lock stitch Lock stitch Chain stitch Chain stitch Chain stitch Chain Chain Chain Chain Chain Chain Chain Chain ----stitch stitch stitch stitch stitch stitch stitch stitch BSI C-100 C-300 C-500 C-500 C-400 C-600 C-600 C-600 C-600 C-600 C-600 C-600 -----Use in stitch on Garment Shoulder. Placket. Shoulder joint etc. In seam. Waist belt of trouser decoration stitch. Shoulder joint etc. 3. Arm hole. Class Class Class Class Class Class 100 Chain stitch 200 Hand stitch 300 Lock stitch 400 Multi tread chain stitch 500 over edge chain stitch 600 covering chain stitch. Needle + Bobbin = Lock stitch 2. 5. Needle + Lopper = Chain stitch British Standard Institute (BSI) BSI have 6 type of stitch method – 1.Garment Woven Cut & Sew (knit) Knit fully fashion Knit (Sweater) Different Sewing method & stitches Stitches are two types – 1. In seam. 2. All kind of knitted hem All kind of knitted hem All kind of knitted hem All kind of knitted hem All kind of knitted hem All kind of knitted hem All kind of knitted hem Cutting Check the broken needle . Pocket. side slide etc. 6. blind stitch at formal pant hem(fvR K‡i wmjvB) etc. Arm hole. Side seam. 4.
3. Assembling Operation/ process Nil Nil Shoulder joint Neck rib mouth joint Neck joint Neck to stitch Sleeve hem Sleeve joint Side seam joint Bottom hem Front rise close Back rise close Side seam Type of M/C ----O/L SNLS O/L SNLS F/L O/L O/L F/L O/L O/L O/L No. Needle Type. 8. Front Back Assembling 1. 5. Universal Sharp Ball Universal Knit Garment Process Breakdown For T-shirt Sl. of M/C ----01 01 01 01 01 01 `01 01 01 01 02 Attachment -------------For Trouser Standard Minute Value ---10 sec 03 sec 18 sec 12 sec 45 sec 70 sec 90 sec 90 sec Production/ Hour --330 pcs 1000 pcs 180 pcs 100 pcs 60 pcs 40 pcs 30 pcs 30 cs 170 170 170 Remark ----- . 3. Sharp . 2. 4.1. Ball. 7. 2. Back 2. 6. Front 1.
3. 9. 6. b. 4. of Needle 1 1 1 2 2 2 4 Tread use /inch 2. Assembling part Neck Sleeve Shoulder Side seam Bottom Hem Accessories Tread Consumption M/C Name Stitch Name Lock stitch Chain stitch Over lock chain 3+ Over lock chain 4+ Over lock chain 5+ Covering chain 4+ Covering chain 9+ No. 7. 5. 5. joint Elastic 2 mouth closer Elastic joint with belt Level joint Waist belt top joint Inseam Bottom Hem Atteched SNLS O/L SNLS F/L O/L F/L 01 01 01 01 02 02 180 60 50 50 30 50 Prepared by by Checked by Approved For sewing layout formula Front part Back part 1. Acco. 6.5 4 14 17. 8.5 23 25 32 Tank Top (Sleeveless Garments) (1) (2) (3) a. 4.3. Neck = 48 cm + 4 (allowance)=52 cm Chest = 104 cm + 6 = 110 cm . 2. Measurement : Garment Measurement Fabric Weight (GSM) Allowance .
Hem width = 2 + 2 = 4 cm 8. k. (center Back Length) Arm hold = 50 cm HPS = 70 cm + 4 (allowance) = 74 cm (High shoulder point) Body GSM = 170-175 Rib GSM = 215-220 Sewing allowance Seam allowance (Bottom hem. g. Neck width = 2 + 5 = 7 cm 7. Cost of Manufacturing It is depend on manufacturer. L= Length W = Weight CPD (Consumption per Dozen) = Men’s T-Shirt Measurement 1. sleeve . Sleeve opening = 20 + 2 = 22 cm 5. h. i. Slye depth ( from CBP to arm hole middle point) 10. 5% of Total value . Arm hole = 42 + 4 = 46 cm 4. Body GSM = 145-150 11. Rib GSM = 180-185 CPD (Consumption per Dozen) = (cÖwZwU cvU© ev As‡ki Rb¨ Avjv`v Avjv`v KbRvgkb Ki‡Z n‡e D‡jL¨ †h w¯f ev Kvd Gi †¶‡Î L x W x 12 x GSM x 2 ¸b Ki‡Z n‡e|) Costing for a T-shirt Costing means total cost +profit Cost Direct Cost Indirect Cost Profit 1. e. Fabric 2. hem) Shrinkage allowance Neck weight = 2 + 5 = 7 cm Consumption Calculation Here . l. Generally indirect cost consume from 15-35% of Direct cost. j. CBL = 68 cm. Sleeve length = 22 + 4 =26 cm 6. HPS = 75 + 4 =79 cm 3.c. d. Chest = 92 + 6 = 98 cm 9. neck. f. Neck = 42 + 2 = 44 cm 2. Accessories 3.
. Memorandum of Association. Acid wash. Spray Wash rate-1 to 12 $/Dozen What is Trims & Accessories? Trims means T-shirt or other Garment have many Accessories attached with German’s body that is Trims and Without attach that is accessories.30 $/Dozen Washing Name Normal wash. Sewing tread in use 1. Printing rate-1 to 2. Trouser = 100 miter = 120 miter = 160 miter Garment’s Commercial Activities Should received from buyer an order sheet/contract sheet. Bleach wash. Sand blasting wash.000 stitch= 0. Membership certificate.P. A copy of Indent/Agreement form.5$/dozen Embroidery 10. Insurance cover note. T-shirt 2. Stone wash. Big polish wash. Enzyme wash. P. Photograph. Silicon wash. Then open a master L/C (Irrevocable L/C) Paper requirement for L/C Valid trade license Income tax declaration/Tin. Polo shirt 3.25 to 0. Hand rubbing wash. Caustic wash.
4. Inspection certificate 2. Master L/C Gi Total amount Gi 70% -90% UvKv Back to Back L/C Gi g‡a¨ Transfer Kiv hvq| (GKUv Master L/C Gi wecix‡Z Back to Back L/C A‡bK ¸‡jv Kiv hvq) Master L/C Back to back L/C Proforma Invoice: For fabric/Accessories buy form. Guarantee Certificate. Back to back L/C 1. Approved sample. 2.Proto-type sample. 8.Pre-production sample. Master L/C copy 2. 5. 3. 7. Bill of Landing Garments Orders FOB = Free on board CM = Cost of manufacturing CMT = Cost of manufacturing with trimming C & F = Cost (FOB) & Freight CIF = Cost (FOB). Count to Tex Tex Count = = Sewing Tread consumption . 6 Production sample. Shipping sample (for buyer) Import Export 1. Size set sample. Bill of landing : For export from ship management Inspection certificate: From buyer Bill of landing: Ship Captain. Fit sample. Kind of Sample 1.Custom/mutilated sample (For custom). insurance & Freight Formula for Change from Tex to Count or.
Lock stitch 1 inch Over lock stitch 1 inch Over lock stitch 1 inch Over lock stitch 1 inch Flade lock stitch 1 inch = Sewing tread use in 3 inch = Sewing tread use in 12 inch = Sewing tread use in 15 inch = Sewing tread use in 18 inch = Sewing tread use in 12 inch ( 3 tread) ( 4 tread) ( 5 tread) ( 3 tread) AQL = Acceptable Quality level WARP = Worldwide responsible apparel production .
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