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There are no video clips, patterns, or printable handouts, but most of the links will work, and the pages and graphics are full size and resolution. We hope it gives you a useful taste of using the real thing. Enjoy!
A Vir tual Workshop with
a myvirtualworkshop.com co-production with David Page Coffin
Look for text that’s violet. and please keep in touch! Click HERE for contact information and credits . inspiring RTW. as well as detailed information on how I evaluate skins and lay out pattern pieces on them. and about my favorite tools. and I suggest you watch these first. This is the heart of the CD. 4 Easily printed “handouts” that repeat all the text points and list the supplies and sources once again so you can access these when you’re away from your computer. source directories and supplier suggestions that you can link to directly from these pages.go …and welcome to my virtual workshop on sewing leather! Here’s what we’ll be covering and how to get around within it: In this CD workshop. and the beginner’s projects provided below. 4 A text section that covers all the details. I’ll tell you all about choosing and evaluating leather skins. then read and enjoy the following sections for additional supporting information. Enjoy. Here’s what you’ll find on the following pages: Video demonstrations of all my most essential leather handling and construction techniques. terms and other information that works better as text than as video. 4 A close-up annotated gallery of my leather projects. these are hot-links to internet resources that you can click on to go directly to the relevant website. I‘ll show you all the steps I use to make a garment or accessory item from the wide variety of leathers that are easy to sew with any standard home-sewing machine. sources and techniques for leather sewing. Full-size printable patterns and instructions for two great beginner’s projects described and pictured in detail. Greetings… to H ow to U se ? So. simply select any section by clicking on its Click the arrow or description above and you’ll go right to it! arrow at the bottom of each page to come back here anytime. 4 Tool lists and gallery.
Video Theater #1 Seams g ec t S el Eva lua t in ing Tools Sewing Click on any Title to start video Sta y tap ing ou Lay t .
Video Theater #2 Details in llet Ma Pre ssin g g Tips Buttons Click on any Title to start video Jea Glu ing ns .
Video Theater #2 Details Pre ssin Here’s what a video looks like when it’s opened and running: in llet Ma g g Tips Buttons Click on any Title to start video Jea Glu ing ns .
Therefore it will be necessary to look at reducing ease in some areas of a garment. you know that sewing garment-weight leather is in many ways exactly like sewing on fabric. . When choosing a pattern for leather. Under collars can be seamed at center back. In order to cut full length pants. Princess seams. tops and accessories. try to create new seams. If pattern pieces are large. Sleeves can be seamed above the elbow. and takes to certain kinds of glue very well. Leather is suitable for pants. Both button and zipper closures work well in leather. since leather doesn’t have a grain. doesn’t ravel. yokes. In the following pages.Sewing Leather: Beyond the Videos Adapting Patterns Converting Yardage More Sewing Tips Care & Cleaning Leather Terms Adapting Patterns If you’ve seen the videos already. look at designs with many seams. two-piece sleeves. I’ll restate some crucial points made in the videos. Click on the chapter headings above and on every following page to move around between the sections. it’s often much easier. converting a pattern’s yardage requirements into square-feet and deciphering the measurement markings that you’ll find on leather skins. Skirts can be seamed at center front and center back as well as side seams. Smaller pattern pieces make better use of the leather with less waste. One of the main limitations of leather is that it doesn’t ease well. further specifics on sewing leather pants. how to understand the sometimes odd terminology you’ll encounter when shopping for leathers. center front and center back seams all make good use of the leather. long-lasting leather creations so you can keep them clean and always looking their best. Wrap style tops are also suitable. In fact. and how to care for your durable. and cover the main additional issues that make sewing leather different from sewing fabric: More on how to adapt patterns. jackets. skirts. add a seam above the knee.
Cut interfacing for the left side the width of the fly facing plus ½”.Adapting Patterns Converting Yardage More Sewing Tips Care & Cleaning Leather Terms (Note: Pockets aren’t shown here.) A FLY FRONT ZIPPER IN LEATHER 1 Fuse center-front edges of garment. WRONG SIDE RIGHT FRONT. LEFT FRONT. but in most cases they’d be completed before inserting the zipper. Cut interfacing for the right side 1” wide. WRONG SIDE . pinking outer edges of interfacing.
If the garment becomes wet. Professional Dry Cleaning Methods Only use a professional familiar with cleaning leather garments. Dry cleaners can also clean handbags. dry cleaners have to use more aggressive cleaning methods which are harder on the skins. Some of these problems are a result of poor quality skins while other problems occur during the manufacturing or design process. Skins can scratch or tear easily. Once a garment is heavily soiled. Generally it will fade and become absorbed into the skin. poor or weak areas of the skins splitting over time and spue or oils coming out of the skins leaving a white residue. Some garments may have mismatched panels. During the cleaning process. Home Preventative Treatments Always store a leather garment in a vented area. The adhesive used on the seams may stain the garment if too much is applied. Men often tear sleeves on car doors. Never try to use an eraser to remove marks from leather as it will stretch the leather. it is important that all matching pieces of suits are cleaned at the same time. to collars. A tear cannot be sewn to be repaired. multiple colored skins which may bleed or transfer color. a small oval shaped patch with beveled edges is glued underneath the tear. Sometimes the design itself is impractical. Keep away from excessive heat which will dry out the skins. Avoid excessive soiling during wear. hang to dry away from any source of heat. If a garment is torn. leave it for a few days. Wear a scarf to prevent oils from being transferred . Check to see if fur trims or ornamentation can be removed for cleaning. Be careful of carrying keys in your pocket. The cleaning process involves using solvents with water. Viscose. The garment is then pressed and hems reglued. Often it is the lining that will wear out. Have the garment professionally cleaned before it becomes excessively soiled. the dry cleaner will assess stains. Almost 100% of smooth leathers are re-colored when cleaned. low quality hides. A leather garment is quite durable and will usually last a very long time.Adapting Patterns Converting Yardage More Sewing Tips Care & Cleaning Leather Terms Care and Cleaning of Leather Common Faults and Problems with leather Some of the problems that arise with a leather garment include fading. shoes. Fasteners can oxide or rust over time. rayon or acetate linings will not stand up as well as a polyester or nylon lining. boots and gloves. pre spot and then clean the garment. Therefore. If oil is spilled on leather. never in plastic. If in doubt ask to see some of the garments they have cleaned. The dyes that are used pentrate well and the color will not come off. About 50% of suedes and nubucks are re-colored.
Try it now! ✺ . and both during and after construction. here are lots of close-ups of these detail-rich pants. There‘s additional information to read. inside and out.Those Jeans! Discussed in detail in the Jeans video. Roll your mouse over this icon whenever you see it. Note especially the stitching: No backstitches! All thread ends were left long and tied on the wrong side. Ocassional skipped stitches were handcorrected as demonstrated in the Tips video.
Lambskin jacket made by Kathryn’s teenage daughter Rae .
Denim-lined Brenne original design with interior and exterior pockets .
Click for pattern ✺ .
Click for pattern .
Glovers hand-sewing needle. Awl. or any other fusible interfacing that bonds faster than regular fusibles Brown paper or fine cotton (batiste) press cloth Cotton flannelette press cloth Clover Chaco Liner for chalk marking Soft lead pencil (4B or 6B) of pencil marking Hera marker or plastic point-turner for impression marking (Sometimes needed: Leather machine needles size 90/100/110. Fray Check to secure knots) Securing Pressing Marking To Suppliers & More .Here‘s the basic toolkit: Stitching Teflon-coated sewing-machine foot Universal machine needles size 90/100/110/120 Gutermann 100% polyester thread Dental floss for sewing on wire-backed buttons Hump Jumper or other presser-foot height compensator Rubber cement or double-sided tape to secure seams Cold Fuse staytape Glue stick Paper clips (I prefer the plastic-coated 2” size) or binder clips Rubber mallet and wooden pounding surface Wallpaper roller for flattening seams without heat WhisperWeft interfacing.
use chisels or hammer punches elsewhere.Click on any image to go to a Source Link Click HERE to go to the Suppliers Listing TOOLS GALLERY Hand-stitch spacing wheels in 3 lengths Rotary punch pliers for medium holes Rotary punch pliers for small holes Spacing chisel for lacing holes.) . insert end prong in previous end hole to repeat (Punch pliers are useful only at edges.
Ontario Canada 416-614-8000 www.com Global Leather 253 West 35.hidehouse. New York 10001 212-244-5190 www. LLC 18600 Graphics Court Tinley Park.MORE LEATHER SOURCES CLEANING The Hide and Leather House 595 Monroe PO Box 509 Napa CA 94559 800-453-2847 707-255-6160 www.suedemaster.com . Laurent.com Suede Products. Quebec Canada H4R 2B4 514-332-6800 fax 514-332-3843 email@example.com Suede Master 25 Connie Toronto. IL 60477 Toll Free: (877) 710-8200 Local: (708) 614-0939 Fax: (708) 444-8205 www. 9th floor New York.com Moore-Pearsall Leathers Limited 4281 Rue Garand St.globalleathers.suedeproducts.
At that time the selection of leather was somewhat limited. Brenne. She is the owner of The Academy of fine Sewing & Design in North Bay.“ . New York: Delmar Publishers and International Thomson Publishing Inc. page 58. It was a wonderful experience where I learned new information and also confirmed that many of the techniques I had been using were also used in the leather-garment industry. Butterick Home Catalogue and THREADS magazine. my editor while he was at THREADS. Brenne. Custom Leather Pants. THREADS magazine volume 103. Through trial and error and the study of a lot of expensive ready to wear. 2000. 1997. 2002. Visit her website at www. Vogue Patterns magazine September/October. 2002. Kathryn. From HGTV’s Sew Much More Episode SMM-118 Brenne.FURTHER READING BIO Brenne. Kathryn teaches at sewing shows across the country and has taped two segments for Sew Much More on HGTV. my final year at Ryerson. Leather Apparel Design. Kathryn. Kathryn. Sewing with Leather. Brenne. THREADS magazine volume 67. She is a frequent contributor to Vogue Pattern magazine. Kathryn Brenne is a graduate of the Fashion Design program at Ryerson University. In the Bag. This CD compiles all of the information that I have learned over the past 25 years. supple skins thin enough to sew using domestic sewing machines. page 14. “Today. “I have compiled this CD with David Page Coffin. My first project was my own design for a woman’s casual jacket. When I first tried to publish a sewing article. page 22. Lapped Seam Construction. the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. In 2001 I had the opportunity to attend a professional development workshop at FIT. 2005.finesewing. Kathryn. Kathryn. After graduation I continued experimenting with leather. I was able to adapt regular sewing techniques for leather. Sterlacci. page 58. “I began working with leather in 1981. create soft. I took my red leather jacket to show David in hope of impressing him! Since that time I have written several articles and taught many workshops on sewing with leather. Ontario and designer of the classic Travel Skirt pattern. Vogue Patterns magazine June/July. there is a wide range of leathers available to the home sewer. Sewing Leather Fearlessly.com for a complete list of hands on workshops. 1996. Albany. Francesca. Modern methods of tanning and dyeing leathers.
com kathryn@finesewing. to David at www.com firstname.lastname@example.org and any comments or queries on the use of the technologies involved in the CD itself.We hope you are enjoying © 2007 by Kathryn Brenne & David Page Coffin Please feel free to contact us! Direct any comments and queries on the contents or leather-sewing techniques to Kathryn at http://www.net …and thanks for joining us! .myvirtualworkshop.