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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Contents START TO END PRECESS CHART

Contents

START TO END PRECESS CHART

3

4

6

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT (SAMPLE ROOM) ......................................................................................

MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT ........................................................................................................

PATTERN MAKING DEPARTMENT/ CAD department

7

Job Role of Pattern Maker

7

PLANING DEPARTMENT .....................................................................................................................

9

WORK-STUDY DEPARTMENT

10

Job Role of I.E

10

Efficiency and Performance Calculations

12

15

GRN raising

15

16

18

HOW FABRICS ARE IN-HOUSED, STORED AND ISSUED FROM THE FACTORY

19

Fabric inspection

19

Visual Inspection for defects

19

Shrinkage test ..........................................................................................................................

22

Shade band process

22

26

Job Roll of Quality Supervisor

26

Job Roll of Quality Checker

29

Job Roll of Quality In

30

FINISHING

31

Washing receiving

31

Finishing & Poly bag Packing

31

Carton process

32

Doing FA (Factory Audit) ..............................................................................................................

33

WARE HOUSE

33

Carton

33

CIF (Central Inspection Facility) ....................................................................................................

33

33

34

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Contents START TO END PRECESS CHART

Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report -

06/01/2012

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 WASH RECEIVE 34 35 FINISHING /

WASH RECEIVE

34

35

FINISHING / CARTON PAKING

35

FACTORY AUDIT

35

WARE HOUSE/LOADING

35

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 WASH RECEIVE 34 35 FINISHING /

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 START TO END PRECESS CHART Obtain

START TO END PRECESS CHART

Obtain tech pack from Costing
Obtain tech
pack from
Costing
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 START TO END PRECESS CHART Obtain
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 START TO END PRECESS CHART Obtain
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 START TO END PRECESS CHART Obtain
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 START TO END PRECESS CHART Obtain
Sampling Develop sample as per Develop
Sampling
Develop
sample as per
Develop
 

Analyze fabric

consumption from

CAD

 
Analyze fabric consumption from CAD Analyze cost of trim and fabric Obtain general sewing data from
Analyze fabric consumption from CAD Analyze cost of trim and fabric Obtain general sewing data from
Analyze fabric consumption from CAD Analyze cost of trim and fabric Obtain general sewing data from

Analyze cost of trim and fabric

Analyze cost of trim and fabric
Analyze cost of trim and fabric
Analyze cost of trim and fabric
  • Obtain general sewing data from IED

Obtain general sewing data from IED
Obtain general sewing data from IED
Analyze fabric consumption from CAD Analyze cost of trim and fabric Obtain general sewing data from

Prepare cost sheet from sample

 

proto sample

     
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 START TO END PRECESS CHART Obtain

Cost sheet sample send to buyer for approval

YES NO Confirmation Cost sheet Approval of order reworked
YES
NO
Confirmation
Cost sheet
Approval
of order
reworked
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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 START TO END PRECESS CHART Obtain

Obtain PCD details from production

Source trims and fabric from concerned dept.

Book washing and embroider capacity if required

Obtain GSD from IED

units

       
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Execution of order by entering details in ERP

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 START TO END PRECESS CHART Obtain
Prepare sample as per buyer requirements Forward the sample to buyer for approval YES NO Hold
Prepare sample as per buyer requirements
Forward the sample to buyer for approval
YES
NO
Hold pre-production meeting
with production unit
Approval
Comments receiving from buyer should be
incorporated and fit sample reworked
Execute
bulk order
Follow up with
production department
& update the buyer
Submit required
Offer garments for
Follow up on
documents to
documentation dept.
final inspection.
Truck out
the payments
for goods
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Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report -

06/01/2012

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT (SAMPLE ROOM) When the

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT (SAMPLE ROOM)

When the merchant received the Tech-pack from the he arrange a product screening meeting which is a 15min. discussion between merchant and senior technicians. At this time they consider five major points

Cycle time

the time taken to complete 01 garment (if it is normal wash most probably 5days)

Fabric

whether the fabric is suitable for our machineries (as an example knitted fabrics and thin woven fabrics are not feasible with the machines in Brandix casual wear)

Wash

have consider about fabric gauge

Machineries

coz thin fabrics cannot use hard wash have to check whether we have enough Sawing machine types to develop it

Construction

sometimes we are not able with the design practically.

If it can develop pattern maker draw the pattern using spec and make a marker to calculate the YY (yards per yield) and next marketing department consider labor cost, machine cost, YY value and all the other cost and adding some buffer and giving to the buyer the cost. If buyer is OK with the cost then style hand over meeting is being held. The key team in this meeting is :-Merchant Pattern Maker Technical Officer Work-study Officer if the style is feasible the minutes of the meeting (construction detail recording sheet) is handover to everyone to develop the sample. But the merchant has to book a plan from the planning department 03 days before making the sample. After that systematically developing the sample

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT (SAMPLE ROOM) When the

Planing

 

Section

Package

Recerving

Section

   

Pattern

Section

Sewing section

in line QC

Print &

Embroider

Section

Washing

section

Cutting section

Final QC

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT (SAMPLE ROOM) When the

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Sometimes more samples have to send

Sometimes more samples have to send to the buyer. They are,

Salesmen samples or promotional samples

Proto samples or fit samples

Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples

Wash test samples

Photo samples

Fashion show samples

Pre-production samples

Production samples

Shipment samples

-

Salesmen samples or promotional samples

Some buyer needs these samples for getting the orders from their customers. If the buyer is having 7 salesmen in his office, then the buyer will ask us to make 7 samples in each style. The salesmen will

book the orders from their customers, by showing these samples. Buyer will place the order to us accumulating the quantities.

-

Photo samples or fit samples

These samples are to be made after getting the order sheets. These samples are needed to check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available similar fabrics but in the actual

measurements and specifications. Some buyers may need these samples if they want to print the photos of garments on photo inlays, packing box, hang tag, etc. These samples may be needed for local advertisement or buyer’s promotional occasions.

-

Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples

These samples are to be made in actual fabrics with actual trims. If the order is for 3 colors, buyer

may need samples in any one colour and swatches (fabric bits) in other colors. These samples should be strictly as per the specifications in the order sheets. We have to get the approval for these samples from the buyer before starting production. After getting the approval, the approved samples should be followed in production. Sometimes, buyer may comment on fabric, measurements, making, etc. We have to follow his comments carefully in production.

-

Wash test samples

If these samples are sent before starting production and if we get some remarks or comments on these samples, we can correct them in production. But some buyers will need us to send these

samples from production before shipment. In this case, these samples may be considered as ‘shipment samples’.

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Sometimes more samples have to send

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT Merchandiser has to do

MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

Merchandiser has to do a major role in garment industry. When buyer sends the tech-pack he have to take the response to order trims and fabrics, make the sample and sent to buyers, and cost the sample and negotiate the Best Deal. Merchant have the responsibility to deliver the goods on time. To do this job easily and neatly Merchandising has divided into to several categories.

Development Merchant : From the beginning to PP approval Development merchant has to deal with Buyers and make the business. And also he has to do an initial booking to develop samples

Operation Merchant : according to the order operation merchant has to prepare cut letters. This cut letters are very useful to identify the styles until the end of the process

Procurement Merchant : has to order the trims and fabrics according to the buyers requirements and built PO numbers to the style. Most probably garment factories purchase the orders from nominate suppliers. There are many advantages and few disadvantages of dealing only with nominate suppliers.

Advantages They always try to maintain their goodwill. Work accurately in to deadlines.

Easy to identify the goods from Trademarks.

Disadvantages Nominate suppliers may little bit expensive than others.

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT Merchandiser has to do

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 PATTERN MAKING DEPARTMENT/ CAD department Computer-aided

PATTERN MAKING DEPARTMENT/ CAD department

Computer-aided design (CAD) is used by the textile industry to improve design capabilities and to document the design process. CAD software for textiles is designed to streamline the design side of the business and often offers cost-saving benefits

Job Role of Pattern Maker

Have to draw the pattern according to tech-pack and they have to make changes according to customer’s comments. When they draw a pattern they have to add the sawing lost and shrinkage percentage also. (Mockup and shrinkage sample is done for find this) after that they draw a marker for the first sample that sends to buyer its call 1 st fit and it made of available trims & fabric. According to buyers comments most probably have to go for 2 nd 3 rd till buyer satisfies with the style. Then after buyer ok with the fit he ask to send the PP sample it is the final sample which made of actual trims and fabrics.

Different types of CAD software can be used to design curves and figures in either 2D, 3D or both.

Gerber's Textile CAD Software

US-based Gerber Technology recently introduced a new version of its AccuMark CAD software called AccuMark 8.4.1. The new technology can be used for pattern design, marker making, grading and nesting. According to the company it can protect against lost work in the event of power failures and helps textile firms to minimize fabric waste.

CAD Software from Lectra

French company Lectra also specializes in producing CAD software for textiles. Its latest innovations include: Kaledo (V2R1) to help firms improve branding and product design to streamline the design development process; Modaris (V6R1), which speeds up the patternmaking process; and Mosaïc, a system for processing patterned fabrics.

Tuka CAD

The latest CAD software that brandix use is TUKA Cad

Why Choose TUKAcad

TUKAcad is the fashion industry's most advanced CAD software system. Developed by programmers with experience in the garment industry, TUKAcad is the worldwide standard in CAD systems.

Tukatech offers extensive training and unparalleled customer support to ensure that each customer fully utilizes all of TUKAcad's many time-saving features.

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 PATTERN MAKING DEPARTMENT/ CAD department Computer-aided

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Comparison between CAD marker making &

Comparison between CAD marker making & manual marker making:

1.

In manual system the system is used to make maker for garment making is traditional.

But in CAD system marker making is done in modern system.

2.

Marker efficiencies is not visible in manual system. Other hand, marker efficiency is visible in CAD

system.

3.

Marker length is not visible in manual system. Marker length is visible in monitor screen at CAD

system.

4.

In manual, once marker is made, not possible to increase its efficiency. But in CAD it is possible to

increase the efficiency at any time.

5.

Marker copying is not possible manually. In CAD, by using Plotter as much as possible copy can be

done.

6.

Manual marker making is very time consuming method whereas, CAD is a faster method.

7.

In manual system quality cannot be assured. It has quality assurance.

8.

Manual system costing is low but CAD is expensive.

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Comparison between CAD marker making &

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 PLANING DEPARTMENT After the merchants book

PLANING DEPARTMENT

After the merchants book a date planning department makes a ruff plans to cutting section, trim section to check whether the trims and fabrics have in-house to the sample stores if that so cutting section and trim section prepare deferent packages according to different bookings and mark the complete packages and give back the ruff plans to the planning department. Then the planning department prepares the final plan to develop the sample and give it to work-study officers to draw line wise layouts to the production flow

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 PLANING DEPARTMENT After the merchants book

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 WORK-STUDY DEPARTMENT Job Role of I.E

WORK-STUDY DEPARTMENT

Job Role of I.E Officer

Monthly Routing:

  • 1. List the machine requirement by calculating & send it to the work study officer in planning. Should do for all styles of next month plan at 25 th of the month.

  • 2. End of the 2 nd week; prepare the machine requirement of the next 2 weeks by considering the revision of the plan& give it to the work study officer in planning.

  • 3. Do grading for operators & for helpers.

Do it for after 6 months.

  For new operators – after 3 months.

Daily Routing:

  • 1. Check the absenteeism of the line & balance the line for actual cadre with running efficiency level. It should be filling for agreed layout of cadre.

  • 2. Prepare incentives of the line & show it to the line.

  • 3. Fill the reason & transferring form of previous day. Need to highlight factory loss hours & accuracy.

  • 4. Participate to daily forecast meeting at 9.00 A.M.

  • 5. Do capacity study for replaced operators, if they are not performing to meet the target.

  • 6. Do the production study for bottle neck operations.

Arrange the handling.

Reduce the unnecessary motions.

Do the production study for 30 minutes.

Fill the production/time study sheet.

End of the study, show it to the operator & sign it.

  • 7. Interview the new recruitments.

  • 8. Improve the methods of operations according to the GSD pattern.

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 WORK-STUDY DEPARTMENT Job Role of I.E

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 For new style: 1. After receive

For new style:

  • 1. After receive the production plan, get the style file & check it with the approved sample. Revise the operations of style file if need, inform it to GSD cell & get the final style file.

  • 2. Participate to PP meeting.

  • 3. Participate to technical meeting. Discuss technical issues & methods of sewing

  • 4. Prepare the machine layout.

Consider the details which were discussed at the technical meeting. That should prepare to achieve the 100% efficiency.

  • 5. Arrange the layout meeting.

Discuss the operations & operators who are suitable for the operations according to the machine layout.

  • 6. 1 1/2 days before of the line feeding should prepare the feeding plan & give it to technical department & to production supervisor. For prepare that need the WIP of previous day.

  • 7. Arrange the machines according to the machine layout.

  • 8. Check the thread consumption of the bulk out put of1 st day.

Check the threads which relevant to the operation with the thread sheet.

When there is revising of threads should inform to the GSD cell.

  • 9. At the 4th day of after line feeding, do capacity checks for each operator & for helper.

Fill& issue the line bar chart sheet.

Should achieve the planning peak efficiency level.

Identify the critical operations & balance it with the operators & helpers. 10. Do the production study, if necessary & prove the capacity. 11. If there is a critical operation which has not been achieved the SMV, it should bring the motions of the operation from GSD cell. If it is need to revise the motions, inform it to the GSD cell.

KPI`S

  • 1. Achieve the plan efficiency.

  • 2. Achieve the plan SAH (Standard Actual Hours).

  • 3. Achieve the planning pieces.

  • 4. Innovations- saving of SMV

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 For new style: 1. After receive

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Efficiency and Performance Calculations ( )

Efficiency and Performance Calculations

( )

=

. × .

×

=

. × . × ×

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Efficiency and Performance Calculations ( )

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 SMV SMV – time that is

SMV

SMV – time that is allowed to perform the job satisfactory. SMV = Basic time + Allowances Standard Minute Value

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 SMV SMV – time that is

Basic Time

The basic time for the operation is found by applying concept of rating to relate the observed to that of a standard place of working.

Calculated as follows:

Basic time = observed time * observed rating

100

(BT = Observed time * Observed Rating = A constant)

100

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 SMV SMV – time that is
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 SMV SMV – time that is
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 SMV SMV – time that is

Types of allowance

  • 1. relaxation allowance

Personal needs (from 5 to 7% of basic time)

Basic fatigue (4 % of basic time)

  • 2. Contingency Allowances

(less than 5 percent)

  • 3. Machine attention Allowances

Single needle lockstitch Double needle lockstitch Three thread over lock Four thread over lock

– 9% - 12% – 14% - 17% - 7% - 9%

Five thread over lock

-11%

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 SMV SMV – time that is

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 SMV calculation Total basic time/garment (brought

SMV calculation

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 SMV calculation Total basic time/garment (brought

Total basic time/garment (brought forward)

1.416

Add machine attention allowances 7% 7% for (0.480 + 0.504) = 0.07 x 0.984 = 0.069

0.069

Basic time + MAA (1.416 + 0.069)

1.485

Add personal needs and relaxation allowances 14% 14% of 1.485 = 0.14 x 1.485 = 0.208

0.028

Standard minute Value (SMV) = Basic time + all allowances

1.693

GSD – General Sawing Data

According to ISO Productivity, GSD (Corporate) Ltd. Have given standard minute values for each of every Garments Operations, using these SMV values can get a idea about the cost of the garment.

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 SMV calculation Total basic time/garment (brought

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 HOW TRIMS ARE IN-HOUSED, STORED AND

HOW TRIMS ARE IN-HOUSED, STORED AND ISSUED FROM THE FACTORY

Suppliers supplies the goods with a “PACKING LIST” and “INVOICE”, Compare the goods in the vehicle with the PACKING LIST by STORE KEEPER and in-house the Goods. Only the labels and boxes are checked by the Store keeper according to the “PACKING LIST” and “INVOICE”.

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 HOW TRIMS ARE IN-HOUSED, STORED AND

TEL

:

 

PO #

:

 

DESIGN :

QTY

:

WGT:

BOXES __

OF

___

C/N

:

TEL : PO # : DESIGN : QTY : WGT: BOXES __ OF ___ C/N :
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 HOW TRIMS ARE IN-HOUSED, STORED AND
PACKING LIST
PACKING LIST
INVOICE
INVOICE
  • If there is,

Excessive supply, Not enough Goods, Not in Good conditions, have to inform to MERCHANT immediately. Then STORE KEEPER gives the invoice + advice note + packing list to GRN Raising team and same time the copy of those detail sheets gives to Location owners in the Stores. Collects his goods and he store in a suitable location. Locations are categorized as Item wise and sub categorized as buyer wise.

M&S GAP Label M&S GAP Button
M&S
GAP
Label
M&S
GAP
Button
M&S GAP Sticker M&S GAP Tags
M&S
GAP
Sticker
M&S
GAP
Tags
M&S GAP Zipper M&S GAP Poly bags
M&S
GAP
Zipper
M&S
GAP
Poly
bags

Location owners’

(Helper)

Then he compares the goods with invoice and a count is taken after checking the contents inside. If the quantity is equal through STORE KEEPER he tells to GRN Raising team to raise a GRN.

GRN raising

In this step all the goods we received is entered to the iNCITO System and till the quality inspection is passed it is automatically locked through the system to issue Delivery Advice Note (DAN) or Factory Issue Note (FIN)

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 HOW TRIMS ARE IN-HOUSED, STORED AND

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 After GRN is raised Storekeeper gives

After GRN is raised Storekeeper gives the GRN copies to Rack location owner and to trim inspection team.

TRIM INSPECTION

Trim inspection team have to take a random stock according to General Inspection Level to check the quality. There are deferent sample sizes for Sewing trims and Packing trims and sample size depends on the batch size too.

(SINGLE NORMAL -03)

GENERAL INSPECTION LEVEL

 

LOT OF BATCH SIZE

SAMPLE SIZE

ACCEPTABLE LEVEL (SEWING -1.5)

ACCEPTABLE LEVEL (PACKING – 2.5)

8-5

5

  • 0 0

 

16-25

8

  • 0 0

 

26-50

13

  • 0 0

 

51-90

20

  • 0 1

 

91-150

32

  • 1 2

 

151-280

50

  • 2 3

 

281-500

80

  • 3 5

 

501-1200

125

  • 5 7

 

1201-3200

200

  • 7 10

 

3201-10,000

315

10

14

10,001-35,000

500

14

21

35,001-150,000

800

21

21

150,000-500,000

1250

21

21

Sewing Trims and their inspection points

Tread

TKT

 

FLY

 

DYE PATCH

 

Zipper

SEAM ALLOWENCE

 

Top

Bottom

Side

LOGO EMBOSE

FUNCTION

 

Label

INSTRUCTION

 

SEAM ALLOWENCE

 

WEAVING DEFECTS

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 After GRN is raised Storekeeper gives

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Tape DYE PATCH WEAVING DEFECTS Velcro

Tape

DYE PATCH

 

WEAVING DEFECTS

 

Velcro

DYE PATCH

 

SEAM ALLOWENCE

 

Elastic

DYE PATCH

 

SEAM ALLOWENCE

 

Hanger Loop

DYE PATCH

 

WEAVING DEFECTS

 

SELVAGE DAMAGE

 

Buckle

NORMAL

 

CROSS CHECKING

 

L-SIDE/R-SIDE

 

Button

LINE

 

LOGO EMBOSE

 

Hook & bar / Reverts

FIX IT

PROPERLY

 

HOOK HIGHT

Packing Trims and their inspection points

Hanger

ADJUSTABLITY

 

Size tab

FIX ABILITY

 

Tag / sticker

INSTRUCTION

 

BARCODE READING

 

Poly bag

INSTRUCTION

 

CLOSE ENDS

 

GAUGE

 

Cartons

FIX ABILITY

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Tape DYE PATCH WEAVING DEFECTS Velcro

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Those trims are checked with an

Those trims are checked with an approved trim card and prepare another few trim cards.

And the location owner compares the goods quantity again with the GRN

If not tally with GRN through STOREKEEPER the Location owner reports to GRN raising team. <very rarely this happens > If tally then he waits until he received ISSUE NOTE

ISSUE NOTE

ISSUE NOTE is prepared by the coordinator from iNCITO System. Planning department send the Plans to the coordinator. And the PURCHACE ORDER + TRIM REQUIREMENT SHEETS + other details are already updated in the iNCITO. The coordinator conceder those details and makes the ISSUE NOTES for each of every TRIM Category and deliver it to the suitable Location owners’ according to issue notes location owner have to issue the exact amount of trims to the correct plant. To button location owner it is impossible to count the exact amount of buttons in issue note. So he considers the amounts have labeled in the packages and for the deficiency there is a scaling system.

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Those trims are checked with an

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 HOW FABRICS ARE IN-HOUSED, STORED AND

HOW FABRICS ARE IN-HOUSED, STORED AND ISSUED FROM THE FACTORY

According to style which buyer requires, our washing plant prepares 3Lap-dips and send it to buyers

A
A
B
B
C
C

If buyer requests the colour B, we select a supplier available to supply B and request colour B from him. Then he prepare a dye recipe dye a sample role and supplier says he can supply us the colour with ±

B

B

B

B

B

Then it also sends to the supplier and has to take an approval. Most probably happening is if the range is already approved in buyers manual or it is in range of 4-5 in gray scale we allow to supplier to supply the fabrics

The STORE KEEPER checks the fabrics with the PACKING LIST based on Rollers and Colors Then he in-house the rollers, color wise. After inspecting all the roles those roles are labeled from a sticker which creates from the FOSS system, it contains barcode and PO info. As soon as the fabrics is unloaded to pallets and stored in the quarantine area, depending on whether or not the factory has received the head-end(1/2yrd*full width). It is the duty of the MESURING TEAM to take head- end of each role and measure the cut-able width. Then it sends to the fabric inspection department. At the same time the fabric roles are placed in racks. Then a sticker is pasted on the pallet and then is shifted on to the rack every rack consist of a barcode, through a barcode reader the barcodes of the roles and the pallets are linked with the barcode in the rack to the FOSS System.

Fabric inspection

Visual Inspection for defects

Sample selection Except small quantity of bulk and If buyer haven’t required a special percentage or the sampling, Most probably 10% sampling is done. From the packing list and invoice we can see the combination of dye lots according to roles. So we consider the ratio of the roles in different dye lots and do the 10% sampling

STANDARD: 4 point system

Range

points

Defect length less than 3 inches

1

between 3 inches-6 inches

2

between 3 inches-6 inches

3

more than 9inches

4

How to grade the samples according to defects

POINTS PER 100yrd 2

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 HOW FABRICS ARE IN-HOUSED, STORED AND

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Defects on yarn; • Broken end/picks-where

Defects on yarn; • Broken end/picks-where a filling /end break leaves a pick/wrap missing for a portion of the width/end of the fabric. Coarse end/ picks- an end/ pick whose diameter is noticeably greater than that normal to the fabric. Fine ends/picks- an end/ pick whose diameter is noticeably smaller than that normal to the fabric. Knots- a place where two ends of yarn are tied or balled together. Neps - an excessive amount of tangled masses of fiber (neps) appearing on the fabric. Slub- a short thick places in a yarn usually symmetrical.

Defects on weaving; • Stop mark- a defect resulting from the warp yarn elongating under tension while a loom is stopped; when it is started again the slackness is taken up by the weave, leaving a distortion across the width of the fabric. Thick place- a lace across the width containing more picks or heavier filling than that. Thin place- a lace across the width containing less picks or lighter filling yarn than that normal to the fabric. Float- a thread extending unbound over or under thread of the opposite yarn system with which it should have been interlaced. Hole- a break in the fabric involving a minimum of two or more yarns. Miss-pick- an incorrect sequence of welt insertion

Defects on finishing; • Skew- in woven, where the filling yarns are off square to the Warp ends, in knits. Where the courses are off square to the Wales. Bow- in woven’s, where the filling yarns lie in an area across the width of the fabric, in knits, where the courses lie in are across the width of the fabric. Crease mark- a mark left in a fabric after a crease has been removed. It may be caused by mechanical damage to the fibers at the fold, by variation in treatment due to the construction along the fold, or by disturbance of the fabric structure. Misprint-either missed, or partially missed of print pattern. Smash- the breakage of a large number of warp ends, usually as the result of a shuttle trap. Stain- color stain or oil stain.

=

=

×

× ×

×

=

Total points per all roles

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Defects on yarn; • Broken end/picks-where

×

×

Minimum width from all roles

Minimum width from all roles

 

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 After giving points to sample roles

After giving points to sample roles they cut and past the defect types in a defect card

Within roller color variations (shading)

In suppliers one dye lot there can be many number of shade lots. Because of this we categorized the roles to several shadings and enter the results to the FOSS system.

In inspection stage Length wise and width wise shading is checked.

Side to side shading and side to center shadings are checked from the 1/2yrd head-end.

  • Shedding is important very important to decide the maker type

Marker types

Side to side maker

one garment one side

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Skewing/Bowing Since the weaving stage weft yarns should be perpendicular to the warp yarns in a Perfect fabric. If not there can be produced a Skewed or Bowed fabrics.

  • Perfect woven fabric

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 After giving points to sample roles

d

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 After giving points to sample roles
d 1
d
1

Skewing

Take a head-end (6”or 9” x full width) from each of every sample roles by tearing. Keep on edge to other edge and fold the fabric vertically to wefts, then if it is a skewed fabric there will be a distance between other two edges, there is an equation to calculate the skewing percentage………………………………

=

× %

the distance where measure as “dw – cut-able width of the fabric

Bowing

Take a head-end (6”or 9” x full width) from each of every sample roles by tearing. Keep on edge to other edge and fold the fabric vertically to wefts, then if it is a bowed fabric there will be a curved line with a distance between two ends, there is an equation to calculate the skewing percentage……………………………… ..

=

× %

the distance where measure as “dw – cut-able width of the fabric

Why it is important to measure Skewing and Bowing

Because of Skewing the final garment can be twist. There can be repeat variation Check fabrics.

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 After giving points to sample roles

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Shrinkage test Shrinkage test is done

Shrinkage test

Shrinkage test is done to each of every head-end which got from every roller. Soon after they checked shadings they cut the head-ends to 2peases, one keep as before wash samples and other Samples measure their dimensions at several places in length and width directions and mark those dimensions and sends to washing plant. After we received the washed samples measure the percentage of shrinkage. All these details are entered to the FOSS system. What is the purpose of measuring it It is very important to draw the marker, when we drawing the pattern to wash garments we have to add the shrinkage percentage and draw the marker if not the garment will be

not in the required size after wash.

Shade band process

From the same samples we used to shrinkage test we have to check the color

variations between Roles (shade) and have to prepare a shade band

How to prepare a shade band To prepare a shade band we have to consider the shade and have to check whether it is matching to the buyer’s manual when in deferent light sources.

Following lights are used in color box;

TL84 –Color of American daylight and most of American show rooms use these colors in shops. D65-This light is very much similar to the day light in England. UV (ultra violet)-This light specially used to check white fabric as well as to check the contrast fabric. In contrast fabric it is used check the transparency of under parts near the seams.

REF

CUSTOMER

PRIMARY

SECONDARY

 
  • 01 M&S

TL84

D65

 
  • 02 LAND’S END

D65

U35

 
  • 03 OLD NAVY

U35

INCA

 
  • 04 EB

D65

 
 
  • 05 GAP

U35

INCA

 
  • 06 BR

INCA

U35

 
  • 07 COLOMBIA

D65

TL84

Then they prepare a shade band and send to buyer with other relevant details to get the approval.

At the end of the Fabric inspection process they have to approve the GRN, without approving GRN no one can make issue notes because the system has blocked it automatically.

What are the requirements should be finalized to approve a GRN

  • Inspection report

  • Shade band

  • Shrinkage report

  • Marker type approval

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Shrinkage test Shrinkage test is done

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 After the GRN is approved only

After the GRN is approved only coordinator can issue FIN (Factory Issue Note) or DAN (Delivery Advice Note) according to plans coordinator issue DAN and FIN and gives it to Stores. From the stores the go through the

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 After the GRN is approved only

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Single needle /cutter Attaching Facing attach,

Single needle /cutter

Attaching

Facing attach, pocket bag, J-stitch,

Fly attach

Fly attach

Outline

Side seam outline

Double needle / 3needle

Attaching

pocket Attach, patch Attach

Single needle /cutter Attaching Facing attach, pocket bag, J-stitch, Fly attach Outline Side seam outline Double

Outline

Side seam, edge outline,

Over Lock

Attaching

Side seam, inseam, Back rise, Flap

edge, facing edge, fly edge

edge, facing edge, fly edge

feed of the arm

Outline

Side seam, Inseam,

Clean finish

Clean finish

Kansai Special

 

Front pocket , waistband close

Single needle /cutter Attaching Facing attach, pocket bag, J-stitch, Fly attach Outline Side seam outline Double

Bar tack

 

Front pocket, Pocket bag O/L ends,

Loop Attach, Fly

Loop Attach, Fly

Button hole

 

Normal hole, Key hole, Eye hole

Single needle /cutter Attaching Facing attach, pocket bag, J-stitch, Fly attach Outline Side seam outline Double
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Single needle /cutter Attaching Facing attach,

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Zig Zag Decoration stitch Label attach,

Zig Zag

Decoration

 
stitch Label attach, Seam corner as a decoration

stitch

Label attach, Seam corner as a decoration

Blind Hem

 

Bottom hem

Sleeve hem

Sleeve hem

     
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Zig Zag Decoration stitch Label attach,

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06/01/2012

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 QUALITY CHECKING PROCESS Job Roll of

QUALITY CHECKING PROCESS

Job Roll of Quality Supervisor

Documents need:

1.

Style file

-

Contract seal comments

PP meeting minutes Trim card

  • 2. Contract seal sample

  • 3. Updated mails (by quality in charge)

Line feeding:

Participate to the PP meeting.

Discussing quality issues which can be occur at the production. Checking the contract seal sample with contract comments & style file, in order to

match the correct constructions according to comments & style file. Participate to the technical meeting.

Discussing all the issues which could overcome at the production according to work study layout. Prepare component measurement sheet.

Has to follow sample & spech sheet. Check machine requirements of the style.

(Thread type/Ticket umber/coloures/shadings/SPI) Fill the feeding check list sheet.

Technical supervisor is giving instructions of the operation & complete a piece. Then MO has to complete 5 pieces. It should be checked & fill the feeding check list sheet.

When there is damage in one piece, it should be corrected & write on the check list sheet regarding that issue.When there is damage than in one piece, should give instructions to correct it & MO has to complete 5 pieces again. Quality supervisor should check it until the operation is corrected until the all 5 pieces finishes.

Has to follow contract seal sample & comments

Prepare mock up sheet & approve it.

At this time should give quality instructions of mock up to MO. Check again the corrected operations which were highlighted before.

Give quality checking instruction sheet to back table, mid table & end line table checkers. (Quality checking instruction sheet should sign by quality checker, QC supervisor & QC

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 QUALITY CHECKING PROCESS Job Roll of

Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report -

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 In-charge.) Should follow style file &

In-charge.) Should follow style file & contract seal sample. Give instructions of labelattaching to MO. Label should match with label chart of trim card. Should check that MO is trained for label attachment (the trained one’s should have a purple colour band on their scarf) First 10 garments of the line out should measure, check & fill the hourly measurement audit sheet. When it has damage, should give instructions to correct it to QC & MO. Send these 10 garments to wash. These garments should return with in 2 days. After receiving, the wash garments should measure & check the quality. It should be fill the hourly measurement sheet for wash garments. First 50 garment should be send to bulk wash in addition of 10 garments Mainly considering the workman ship.

Daily rutting:

Every morning, should check the absenteeism of the line & operators who has been replaced instead of absentees. Should be checked the quality of the operations. Every morning machine requirement of the operations should be checked. Do the SPC (Statistic Process Control)

  • 1. Attribute – (Consider the workman ship.) Do 8 times per day (with in 8 hours). Consider back area, front area & assemble of the garment. Check 40% of the line out per hour. Damages should be between 5% - 0% When damages are over 5%, has to take an action.

  • 2. Variable – (Consider the measurements.) Do for critical areas of the garment (low hip, front rise, back rise) Do it for 3 garments per hour & 4 times per day. Garments to be checked, should not be in same sizes.

Monitor the end line & mid line hourly. End line & mid line sheet is filled by the QC & it should be checked. Measure & check 10 garments per day hourly (random selection) Fill the hourly measurement audit sheet & end line garment review sheet. Review the sheet & when it has been damaged, aware the QC & MO regarding that and correct it.

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 In-charge.) Should follow style file &

Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report -

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012      

Send 6 above mentioned garments to wash (GAP). Measuregarments at after wash& after iron. Check them at after measure by the finishing department. Fill the hourly measurement audit sheet also for washed garments. (Measuring’s should be done according to the shrinkage) When there is measurement problem, inform to the quality in charge. When there are colour shades of the garment, it should be informed to the QC in - charge & check and get the approval for those colour shades. Normally has approval for colour shades for side to side markers. Hang white band of loop to colour shades before it sent to wash. Send QC to finishing Div. 3 times per day to check the quality of washed garments. Do random checking in the line.

When it`s need needle holes (special requirements), should put the needle change report. Check whether those needles are changed according to the report (changing times) When it has button attach on the garment, has to follow bingo card by the MO (for clear buttons) Bingo card should be checked that the MO is following up it. At the colour changes, it should send 10 garments for wash & measure it. Hang green band on the loop for dead damages.

Maintain the uneven foundation of the garments (waist band).

KPI`S

Lot audit passing (workman ship)

Maintain 97% FPY (First Pass Yield)

Should have 95% pass rate of before wash audit (10 pieces from a bin is auditing)

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012      

Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report -

06/01/2012

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Job Roll of Quality Checker Line

Job Roll of Quality Checker

Line feeding:

Get quality instructions from the line supervisor.

Fill the QC Instruction Sheet & it should be approved by the quality in charge. Check quality of the operations, until garments are received to the table.

End line table QC should hang on a sample in front of the table with the 1 st garment review sheet which approved by the quality supervisor & quality in charge

Daily rutting:

Follow the QC instructions, which gave by the quality supervisor. When identify a damage mark it & return to the line for correct it. When damage has continuously, inform to the quality supervisor. Fill the mid line/ end line sheet hourly. Visit to finishing department& check wash garments. Correct the returned garments which are coming from the finishing & submit them back. Bin audit should be passed.

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Job Roll of Quality Checker Line

Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report -

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Job Roll of Quality In charge

Job Roll of Quality In charge

Line Feeding:

Participate to PP meeting. Give quality requirements of the garment. Participate to technical meeting. Discussing quality issues can occur at production. Check the contract seal sample with contract comments & review it. Prepare 1 st garment review sheet. Give quality instructions to quality supervisors at the line feeding.

Daily rutting:

Maintain the LTO of quality team.( Labour Turn Over) Maintain the absenteeism of quality team. Participate to meeting of Plant Manager at 9.00 A.M. Participate to meeting of Factory Manager at 9.30 A.M. Follow up that production pullouts/rack samples are given by the supervisors correctly. Follow up that 1 st 10 & 1 st 50 garments are received from wash& checked them by supervisors. Check the mails & give instructions according to updated mails. Follow the quality level of the plant by giving solutions with involve to the problem. Check that the mid line/end line sheets & SPC is maintaining correctly. Handle the cutting issues. Handle shading issues. Get approval for printings if necessary. Keep return garments from finishing at low level.

KPI`S

FPY should be at 97% of the plant (First Pass Yield) Before wash pass rate of the plant should be 90% Plant lot audit pass rate 97% Final pass rate of the shipment should be 97% Maintain SPC of the plant in 5%

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Job Roll of Quality In charge

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 FINISHING Washing receiving – wash receive

FINISHING

Washing receiving wash receive supervisor. (process map is in page 36)

  • 1. Check the packing list & tag on the bag.

  • 2. Unloading - 3 helpers & 1 leader

Leader should check the packing list & tag on the bag.

  • 3. Delivery the garments to store.

  • 4. Store on racks.

  • 5. Selecting the garments for audit.

  • 6. Auditing – 3 auditors

First 50 auditing for new styles.

 

Pass – Release to finishing.

Fail – Calling for the meeting, person who are related. Resend the garments to prepare damages.

Bulk auditing.

 

Pass – Release to finishing.

Fail – Inform to the relevant QC supervisor of the sewing floor.

Fill the 1 st

Re-auditing after prepare the damages. 50 analyzing report.

  • 7. Bring to size break.

  • 8. Size breaking according to PO –

7. Bring to size break. 8. Size breaking according to PO –

4 helpers

Finishing & Poly bag Packing2 finishing in charges/8 line leaders (process map is in page 35)

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 FINISHING Washing receiving – wash receive
  • 1. Bringing the garments from wash receive. 2 helpers.

  • 2. Cutting loops.

  • 3. Removing dust in pocket bags.1 helper.

  • 4. Attaching buttons – 3 M/O.

  • 5. Thread trimming – 2 helpers.

  • 6. Wash quality checking (WQC) – 3 Q.C

  • 7. Sucker – 1 helper.

  • 8. Ironing – 3 helpers.

  • 9. Topper – 1helper.

    • 10. Final quality checking – 3 helpers.

    • 11. Measuring- 1 helper.

    • 12. Quality auditing. –1auditor.

    • 13. Damage repairing – 1 M/O.

Folding method(5 helpers)

Match book & price ticket attaching.(joker tag)

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 FINISHING Washing receiving – wash receive

Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report -

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012  Dust removing (if necessary) 

Dust removing (if necessary)

Folding.

Leg sticker attaching.

Pre pack separating.

Insert to poly bag.

Paste the pre pack sticker & doing CNI (Conformity Necessary Information).

Hanging method (5 helpers)

Remove the hanger.

Price ticket attaching.

Put the hanger with punch & remove dust (if necessary)

Put the size tag.

Hang on the rail.

Get the garment from rail.

Hang on the bar.

Put the poly bag.

Hang the garment on rail.

Paste the bar cord stickers.

Hang on the railings to deliver the ware house.

Carton process In charge

  • 1. Bring the garments from line out.- 2 helpers

  • 2. Doing CNI (Conformity Necessary Information).- 3 helpers

  • 3. Deliver to needle detector.

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012  Dust removing (if necessary) 
  • 4. Garment passes through the detector. 2 helpers

  • 5. Get the garment from the detector.

  • 6. Deliver to the size break.

  • 7. Separating to sizes.

  • 8. Store in size wise.

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012  Dust removing (if necessary) 

5 helpers for flat & 1 for hangers.

  • 9. Carton packing

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012  Dust removing (if necessary) 
  • i. Make carton for pack. Write the necessary information on the carton. Packing the garments

ii.

iii.

iv.

Close the carton

7 helpers

  • a. Pack folded garments in carton (pre pack & bulk).

  • b. Pack garments with hangers in carton.

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012  Dust removing (if necessary) 

Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report -

06/01/2012

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Doing FA (Factory Audit) 2 auditors

Doing FA (Factory Audit) 2 auditors

(process map is in page 37)

  • 1. Select the cartons according to AQL.

  • 2. Check shipping mark (Address/PO/Qty/carton no/of no)

  • 3. Doing CNI for the carton.

  • 4. Doing random CNI for hangers according to packing list.

WARE HOUSE Incharge

Carton

  • 1. Bring the cartons to ware house.

  • 2. Doing EDI (Electronic Data Interchange) on the carton.

  • 3. Mark the quantity & carton number on the carton.

CIF (Central Inspection Facility)

  • 1. Attach the PO sheet with packing list & offer to the CIF.

  • 2. Select the cartons for CIF.

  • 3. Send the selected cartons for CIF.

  • 4. CIF auditing

Pass- release to loading.

Fail – recheck & give again to CIF.

  • 5. Do the packing at CIF room.

Loading

Cartons

  • 1. Delivery the cartons to loading bay.

  • 2. Check the carton number & of number by security officer at the loading.

  • 3. Doing random checking (in side of the carton)

  • 4. Loading to container.

Hangers

  • 1. Doing loading CNI. Should have 40 garments on a rail.

  • 2. Delivery to loading bay.

  • 3. Counting by the security officer at the loading.

  • 4. Loading to container.

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 Doing FA (Factory Audit) 2 auditors

Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report -

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 System chart process map WASH RECEIVE

System chart process map

WASH RECEIVE

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 System chart process map WASH RECEIVE
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 System chart process map WASH RECEIVE

Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report -

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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 FINISHING/ POLY BAG Brandix College of

FINISHING/ POLY BAG

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 FINISHING/ POLY BAG Brandix College of
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 FINISHING/ POLY BAG Brandix College of
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 FINISHING/ POLY BAG Brandix College of
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 FINISHING/ POLY BAG Brandix College of
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 FINISHING/ POLY BAG Brandix College of

Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report -

06/01/2012

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 FINISHING / CARTON PAKING Brandix College

FINISHING / CARTON PAKING

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 FINISHING / CARTON PAKING Brandix College
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 FINISHING / CARTON PAKING Brandix College

Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report -

06/01/2012

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 FACTORY AUDIT Brandix College of Clothing

FACTORY AUDIT

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 FACTORY AUDIT Brandix College of Clothing
Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 FACTORY AUDIT Brandix College of Clothing

Brandix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report -

06/01/2012

Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 W A R E H O
W A R E H O U S E / L O A D I N
W
A
R
E
H
O
U
S
E
/
L
O
A
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Brand ix Centre of Inspiration - Factory Report - 06/01/2012 W A R E H O

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