Home Composting

Getting Started
Siting your compost bin Common sense is the best guide with due consideration given to both convenience and appearance. Ideally, the compost bin should stand level on earth or grass in a fairly sheltered spot of the garden not too far from the house. If possible, avoid placing it near trees and shrubs that may push their roots up into the pile. That said, compost bins can be sited on concrete and still be viable. Composting Basics Good composting is a matter of providing the proper environmental conditions for microbial life. Compost is made by billions of microbes (fungi, bacteria, etc.) that digest the yard and kitchen wastes (i.e., the food) you provide for them. If the pile is cool enough, worms, insects, and their relatives will help out the microbes. All of these will slowly make compost out of your yard and kitchen wastes under any conditions. However, like people, these living things need air, water, and food. If you maintain your pile to provide for their needs, they'll happily turn your yard and kitchen wastes into compost much more quickly. Keep in mind the following basic ideas while building your compost piles: AIR: Composting microbes are aerobic -- they can't do their work well unless they are provided with oxygen. Without air, anaerobic (non-air needing) microbes take over the pile. They do cause slow decomposition, but tend to smell like putrefying garbage! For this reason, it's important to make sure that there are plenty of air passageways into your compost pile. Some compost ingredients, such as green grass clippings, quantities of food or vegetable scraps from the kitchen, or wet leaves, mat down very easily into slimy layers that air cannot get through. Other ingredients, such as straw, don't mat down easily and are very helpful in allowing air into the centre of a pile. To make sure that you have adequate aeration for your pile and its microbes, its a good idea to try and thoroughly break up or mix in any ingredients that might mat down and exclude air. You can also turn the pile to get air into it, which means completely breaking it apart with a spade or garden fork and then piling it back together in a more 'fluffed-up' condition (see Hot Composting below). WATER: Ideally, your pile should be as moist as a wrung-out sponge to fit the needs of compost microbes. At this moisture level, there is a thin film of water coating every particle in the pile, making it very easy for microbes to live and disperse themselves throughout the pile. If your pile is drier than this, it won't be very good microbial habitat, and composting will be slowed significantly. If your pile is a great deal wetter, the sodden ingredients will be so heavy that they will tend to mat down and exclude air from the pile, again slowing the composting process (and perhaps creating anaerobic odour problems). If you are using a quantity of dry ingredients, such as autumn leaves or straw, you may need to moisten them as you add them to the pile. Kitchen fruit and vegetable wastes generally have plenty of moisture, as do fresh green grass clippings and garden thinnings. The lid on your compost bin should help you control the moisture by leaving it up when it rains if the pile seems to dry or closing it to prevent the compost from getting too wet. FOOD: In broad terms, there are two major kinds of food that composting microbes need: Browns' are dry and dead plant materials such as straw, dry brown weeds, autumn leaves, wood chips or cardboard and newspaper (see High Fibre Composting below). These materials have a fairly high carbon content and are mostly made of chemicals that are just long chains of sugar molecules

linked together. As such, they are a source of energy for the compost microbes. Because they tend to be dry, browns may need to be moistened before they are put into a compost system. 'Greens' are fresh (and often green) plant materials such as green weeds from the garden, kitchen fruit and vegetable scraps, green leaves, coffee grounds and tea bags, fresh horse manure, etc. Compared to browns, greens have more nitrogen in them. Nitrogen is a critical element in amino acids and proteins, and can be thought of as a protein source for the billions of multiplying microbes. A good mix of browns and greens is the best nutritional balance for the microbes. This mix also helps out with the aeration and amount of water in the pile. Browns, for instance, tend to be bulky and promote good aeration. Greens, on the other hand, are typically high in moisture, and balance out the dry nature of the browns.

Good and Bad Materials Its always good to bear in mind that although everything that was once alive can be composted, that doesnt mean it should be composted particularly in most home composting The following should generally be avoided From the Kitchen: NO Meat, Fish, Bones, Fats, grease, oils, dairy products, cooked foods From the Garden/Household: NO Diseased plants, Weeds gone to seed, Dog/cat droppings, Brush or large prunings (unless shredded or chipped)

The following are ideal for home composting From the Kitchen: Fruit and vegetable scraps, Tea bags, coffee grounds, Egg shells, Banana skins, orange peels, Paper towels/tissues (soiled) From the Garden/Household: Lawn cuttings, grass, leaves, Houseplants & flowers, Newspaper (shredded or torn and balled), Cardboard boxes, packaging (torn and balled), For advice on specific materials, call 0845 277 7000, and ask for Mr. David Riggle or order the Councils (free) 'Guide to Home Composting brochure.

Three Good Composting Methods

The composting method thats best for you will depending on how quickly you want to make compost, the kind and quantity of various materials you have readily available, and how much effort you want to put into turning the pile. 1. Hot Composting A common misunderstanding about compost piles is that they must be hot to be successful. This just isn't true. If you have good aeration and moisture, and the proper ingredient mix, your pile will decompose just fine year-round at normal Scottish temperatures. It will slow down considerably when temperatures drop below freezing, but start up again as the day warms up. Hotter piles will decompose faster, however. ... Generally speaking, a hotter pile means more microbes or conditions that allow the microbes to have faster metabolisms, and therefore a faster composting process. If you'd like to keep your pile as warm as possible, consider the following: For a pile to get hot and stay hot for a long period of time, the typical minimum size is one cubic meter (i.e., a cube that is one meter -- about three feet -- on each side). A pile this size has enough mass to support those billions of heat-generating microbes, yet is also large enough that the centre of the pile is well-insulated by the material surrounding it. Smaller piles just cannot insulate themselves well enough to remain hot for long, if at all.

To get it started: 1. Gather both "green" and "brown" ingredients, enough to make a compost pile measuring at least 1 metre (3 feet) in each direction (high, wide and long). In other words, fill your bin completely. 2. Chop or shred into small pieces as much of the material as possible. Smaller materials make a better home for decomposer organisms, with more surface area for them to work on. The finer the pieces, the faster your compost will be finished. Garden shears or hedge trimmers will work, even if they are tedious with large amounts. Dry materials like leaves can be run through a shredder (if available), or a lawn mower can be run over them. 3. Layer 15 cm (6 inches) of well watered "browns" and 15 cm of "greens," then mix the first two layers together. 4. Alternate and mix layers of each type of material, adding water as needed, until the box is full. Adding the material in layers simply helps you judge the right proportions of "brown" and "green." But everything should then be thoroughly combined to compost efficiently. 5. Close the lid to protect it from heavy rain, and wait. The compost should begin to heat up within hours. To witness decomposition in action, you can stick a metal rod into the centre of the pile for a few minutes, then check if it has warmed up. Compost thermometers are available at garden centres, or you can even mount a meat thermometer at the end of a stick if you want precise temperature readings. Vapour emerging from between the slats, and a fine grey fungus just under the surface, are other good signs of an active hot compost.

What if it doesn't heat up? When a hot compost pile won't heat up, the problem is almost certainly one of three things: a) the pile is too small b) it's too dry c) it needs more "greens" or, especially in cold weather, a "starter" to give it more nitrogen.

The Hot Composting Timetable The temperature of the pile should rise steadily, peaking between 50 and 65 degrees C (120-150 F), 24 hours to one week later. When the temperature begins to drop, the compost is ready for turning. Break up any clumps of material, and move the outside parts to the base and centre. If the pile is too dry, this is the time to wet it. Close the lid again, and wait. The temperature should peak again in about a week, in a pile made of well-shredded materials. (Remember the smaller the pieces, the faster the compost. As soon as it begins to cool, turn the pile once more. In another week or two, the compost should be finished; that is, dark and crumbly, fresh smelling, with very little of the original material identifiable. When compost is ready for use, the temperature of the pile won't rise above 43 degrees C (110 F) no matter how often you turn it.

Key Points to Remember Use equal amounts of "greens" and "browns." Mix together a variety of ingredients. Shred or chop all ingredients, if possible. Build the pile large enough to retain heat. Turn or aerate the heap regularly to let in air. Keep the pile as moist as a damp sponge.

2. Cool composting Essentially, this method is similar to what was described above under Hot Composting except that: material is added slowly over time rather than all at once, and the compost never (or infrequently) heats up

The right combination of materials will become compost with very little attention, and it doesnt need to get hot to do so The biggest disadvantage of this method is that it takes longer -- up to a year until finished compost is available. Its quite useful if you arent interested in the physical task of turning the compost, or if you dont need the compost in a hurry. You still need a variety of foods for the decomposer organisms to eat -- a similar mix of greens and browns as detailed above -- and you need to pay attention to whether the compost is getting enough air and moisture. In lieu of turning, an occasional stir can help. Its also usually a good idea to put a good quantity of browns on the bottom of the box (leaves, straw, small twigs, etc) before adding many greens like grass clippings and vegetable trimmings. Additionally, a good rule of thumb is to always try to add an equal quantity of browns whenever greens are added. This helps keep the pile from getting slimy or odorous. The High Fibre method detailed below could be a good variation on this Cold Composting theme for many households. 3. High Fibre Composting The Centre for Alternative Technology (CAT) in Wales is championing a variation on cold composting they are calling the High Fibre method that utilises paper and cardboard as well as the normal greens and browns. Peter Harper at CAT explains it this way: "One undoubted success [at CAT] has been the use of nonrecyclable paper and cardboard as a bulking agent for putrescibles and soft garden wastes [in home composting]. For many households, kitchen wastes and grass clippings are the main organic arisings and these are ones that traditionally have given the most trouble to home composters, because they lack structure, are often too moist, and contain too little carbon [i.e., browns]. "The addition of cellulose in the form of balled or scrunched cereal boxes, used tissues and kitchen towels, toilet-roll spindles, soiled newspapers etc, corrects all these deficiencies at a stroke. As it happens these materials are readily available in any household in more or less the right quantities, at the right scale, and the right timing to combine almost perfectly with the other organic arisings. Everything goes onto the heap as it comes. It does of course require another source-separation category unfamiliar to most householders, but is easily learned and incorporated into kitchen routines. "This simple mixed system has been tested for five years in the trial household [at CAT in Wales], 2 using large open containers with a floor area about 1m , on a yearly cycle, taking all kitchen waste including cooked material, plus household fines, soft garden wastes, weeds and spent composts. "It differs from standard composting practice in that there is no attempt to establish a thermophilic [i.e., HOT] phase. There is some heating, but it does not seem important. Instead the entire mass is dominated by visible invertebrate decomposers, principally brandling worms but also woodlice, slugs, insect larvae, springtails and mites, plus carnivores such as centipedes and staphylinid beetles. "There is no need for turning. A rich, dark layer of invertebrate frass builds steadily from the bottom, and in the summer is only a few inches below the surface under the fresh material. The process is slower in the winter but still vigorous. There are occasionally anaerobic pockets but they do not last long. Smells are minimal. There are fruit flies but in relatively small numbers, and they can be eliminated if necessary by a layer of fresh grass clippings. There have been no vermin problems! "...This continuous system matches the typical pattern of household production of kitchen and nonrecyclable cellulose wastes. Compost can be removed at any time from the bottom provided there is access, or the process can alternate between two containers, leaving one side to finish and act as

store until the compost is required. The compost itself is fine enough for direct use. It usually does not require riddling, although pieces of plastic might need removing. "...What are the snags? The most obvious one is that it does not deal with woody waste, which has different properties and a different breakdown cycle. Shredded woody waste could be used, and would be a useful bulking agent, but there would still be twiggy bits in the compost after one year. "...Over the years we have refined the list of paper products that work best and which such as drinks cartons should not be used at all. "Grass is slightly problematic. Grass clippings have similar characteristics to kitchen waste and in small quantities can be incorporated into the system without further ado. In fact they seem to be a positive asset. ...As all gardeners know, a large mass of grass clippings can turn to smelly slime in a remarkably short time. All this is especially true if the garden has big lawns. "Several simple ways round this have been tried, the main one being a nearby store of extra cardboard in the form of corrugated cartons. The cartons are crudely ripped and buckled to create complex surfaces and mixed with the grass to give cells of about 1-5 litres. This process can be mixed with the rest of the compost system, or carried out separately, which can give a very clean, usable compost in a under six weeks. ... "The finished HFC compost is very pleasant to handle and can be used straight away as a potting medium without combining it with other media. In trials so far it has produced magnificent plants. It has succeeded both as seed and potting compost...." Conclusions Remember that the composting method that is best for your household depends on the kind and quantity of materials you have available. We encourage you to experiment with the different methods until you find the one that suits best. Dont hesitate to call or write for more advice. With any of the methods above, at the end of the day (or the composting cycle) you will have a brown, earthy compost with many uses..

These pages are adapted and edited from a variety of sources with appreciation, including The Composting Association, New Brunswick (Canada) Department of the Environment, The Rot Web (Eric Johnson), The Centre for Alternative Technology and BioCycle magazine. For more information about home composting call Waste Services at Stirling Council on 0845 277 7000 or email waste@stirling.gov.uk .