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HOW

TO

USE

AND

CARE

FOR

YOUR

WHITE ZIG-ZAG

SEWING MACHINE

MODEL

628

INDEX

 

Page

Name of Each Part

 

1

Principal Features

3

How to Regulate the Stitch Length

5

Machine Embroidery

6

How to Wind the Bobbin

7

How to Remove and Replace Bobbin Case

9

How to Thread the Bobbin Case

10

How to Remove the Shuttle

11

How to

Insert the

Needle

12

How to Thread the Machine

13

Preparing to Sew

 

14

Removing the Work

14

How to Adjust Thread Tensions

How to Use the Automatic Darner

Page

15

16

How to Embroider

with

a

Hoop

How to Use Attachments

16

17

1)

Narrow Hemmer

  • 2 Quilting Guide

    • 3 Seam Gauge Sewing on Buttons Making Buttonholes

4)

5)

Drop Feed Adjustment

17

19

19

20

20

22

Needle-Thread- Fabric.Stitching (;iide ...

23

Check-up for Smooth Sewing

24

Oiling and Cleaning

25

!1

T

0-

Name of Each Part

  • 1 Automatic darner

2

Thread

guide

3

Spool

pins

4

Zig-zag

stitch

regulating

knob

5

f-land

wheel

6

Automatic

bobbin winder

7

Stitch

regulating

lever

8

Stitch

regulating dial

  • 9 Bobbin winding tension

disc

10

Drop feed

dial

—2—

11

Twin stitch

width

locks

12

Needle

plate

13

Presser foot

 

14

Cover

plate

15

Presser bar

 

16

Needle clamp screw

17

Dial

thread

tension

regulatcr

18

Presser foot thumb screw

19

Thread

guide

20

Face plate

 

21

Thread take-up

lever

Fig.

2

PRINCIPAL

 

FEATURES

 

1.

Stitch

length regulation.

 

The

length of the

stitch is

controlled

by

a

dial

located

on

the

right

of

the

arm.

See

Fig.

2

Turn

the

knob

right

to

shorten

the

stitch

and

left

to

lengthen.

 

The

correct

stitch

length

is

shown by

numbers

on

the

dial

surrounding

the

knob.

Near

zero

is

the

shortest

stitch,

5

the

longest.

 

To

change

stitch

length,

move

forward-reverse

lever

to

neutral

position

Fig.

2

When

stitch

length

is

set,

push

lever

down

to

sew

for

ward,

up

 

to

sew

backward.

 

2.

Stitch

width

 

regulation.

To

set

the

width

of

the

stitch

at

the

size

required,

move

the

zigzag

stitch

knob

shown

in

 

Fig.

 

3

to

right

or

left.

The

width

of

the

stitch,

from

straight

sewing

to

the

widest

zigzag,

 

is

indicated

in

red

above

the

knob.

Lock

twin

knobs

at

width

or

widths

preferred.

 

The

stitch

width

is

set

at

the

far

left

for

straight

sewing.

burlci

the

clockwise

turning

By

darner.

foot

the

from

released

is

Fig.

in

shown

A

nut

darning

for

freely

moved

au

be

fabric

that

can

so

tli

push

normal

than

pressure,

lighter

For

mending.

to normol pressure

To return

down part

B

way.

cap

\va\

ihe

all

down

push cap

fabrics,

heavy

Yor

ordinar

Fig.

engaged

by

winder

is

bobbin

The

winder.

bobbin

Fig.

“Push”,

marked

lever

the

pressing

automatically.

is fully wound the winding

stops

bobbin

When

the

5

Fig.

4—

A

4

  • 1. Automatic

  • 3. Automatic

  • 4. pressure

H

b

5.

HOW

TO

REGULATE

THE

STITCH

LENGTH

 

The

stitch

length is

regulated

simply

by

turning the

knob

shown

in

Fig.

6,

with

the

forward-reverse

lever in

neutral.

To

lengthen

the

stitch

turn

knob

to

left,

to

shorten,

return

to

right.

Refer

to

chart

below

for

approximate

number

of

stitches

per inch

obtained

at

various

settings.

 
 

STITCH

LNTh

CHART

 
 

Figures

on

the

dial

0

1

2

3

4

5

Number

of

stitches

 

No

feed-

 

per

inch

 

ing

32

16

11

8

6

1.

To

sew

forward.

Turn

knob

until

marker

on

stitch

indicator

points

to

figure

corresponding

to

the

number

of

stitches per

inch

required

for

the

work

you

are

doing.

Then

push

the

forward

reverse

lever

down

as

far

as

it

will

go.

 

2.

To

sew

backward.

 

Push

the

forward-reverse

lever

up

as

far

as

it

will

go.

This

“backtacking”

locks

the

seams

and

eliminates

tying

of

threads.

—5—

MACHINE

EMBROIDERY

 

The knurled zigzag

stitch

lever knob A shown

in Fig.

7

is used

to

vary

the

stitch width

while

you are doing machine embroidery.

If

you do

not

set

the

locks

B

and

C

you

can

swing

the

needle freely between

the

narrowest

and

widest stitches.

 

The

stitch

width

required for

operations

such

as

monogramming

and

making

buttonholes

is

set

by

moving

the

zigzag

stitch

lever

to

the

stitch

width

most suitable on the

indicator

D

Fig.

7.

Move the

locking knobs so

that

the

black

pointers

touch

the

zigzag

lever.

Turn

right

to

tighten.

When the

stitch

width is

locked

on

only

one

side

the

knob

can

be

moved

freely

between

that

width

and the

other

side.

 

6

—7—

N4

HOW

WIND

TO

BOBBIN

THE

 

Turn

the

clutch

nut

in

the

center

of

the

hand

wheel

toward

you

to

disengage

the

sewing

mechanism

Fig.

8).

Place

a

spool

of thread

on

a spooi pin, and sup the thread through the

upper

arm

thread

guide

and

across

to

the

tension

disc

as

shown

in

Fig.

9.

Fig.

9

Insert thread

through

a

hole on

edge

of

bobbin

and place

bobbin on spindle

of winder Fig. 9). Be sure that the notch in the bobbin fits over the small

pin

on

the spindle.

Press down on lever marked “push” and set machine

in

motion.

When the bobbin is fully wound, the action of the winder stops auto

matically.

Remove from spindle and cut off loose thread end.

 

If the bobbin winds unevenly adjust the bobbin winding

tension disc

to

the

right or left by loosening the screw.

When

the disc

is

in the

proper position,

tighten screw. Before starting to sew again, tighten clutch nut by turning it away from you.

—8—

Fig.

10

-

HOW

TO

REMOVE

AND

  • 1 REPLACE

BOBBIN

CASE

 

Raise

the

needle

bar

to

its

highest

position

and

lift

up the

hinged

cover

plate.

Grasp

the

bobbin

case

by

the

latch

and

pull

out

see

Fig.

10

When

the

latch

is

closed,

the

bobbin

falls

out

of

the

case

readily.

 

To

replace,

hold

case

by

latch

and

place

it

on

spindle

in

center

of

shuttle

race.

Press

firmly

before

closing

latch,

making

certain

that

 

the

tongue

of

the

case

fits

into

notch

on

the

upper

edge

of

the

race

cover.

—9—

HOW

TO

THREAD

THE

BOBBIN

CASE

 

Refer

to

Figs.

11,

12

and

13

to

familiarize

yourself

with

the

procedure.

Hold

the

bobbin

case

in

your

left

hand

with

the

tongue

pointing

up.

Let

about

two

inches

of

thread

hang

free

from

the

bobbin,

and

insert

bobbin

into

case,

so

that

thread will

be

rotating

counter.clockwise.

 
 

Fig.

11

Guide

the

thread

end

through

the

slot

on

the

side

of

the

case

and

under

the

tension

spring

until

it

enters

the

small

notch

on

the

edge

of

the

spring.

Fig.

12

10

Fig.

13

SHUTTLE

THE

REMOVE

TO

HOW

and

hook

the

tangled

thread

becomes

the

When

thread

under

the

take

to

shuttle

necessary

race

and clean

apart

mechanism

the

tilt

and

position

highest

its

bar

needle

the

Raise

the

Push

bobbin

the

screws

Remove

back.

head

the

outside

and

the

the

side

either

cover

race

the

Fig.

easily.

removed

can

cover

hook

out.

and

hook

the

cover.

from

race

lint

and

thread

race,

Brush

away

that

place

the

race

hook

center

holding

Then,

driver.

against

firmly

the

notch

the

with

at

the

side

each

pins

race,

Fit

over

cover

the

openings

side

cover.

back

latch

Pull

over

screws

on

it

is

of

be

to

it.

in

case.

to

See

14.

Lift

Fig.

14

all

by

pin,

it

in

so

it

fits

top.

on

of

  • II

of

HOW

TO

INSERT THE NEEDLE

 

Turn hand wheel

toward you to raise needle bar

to

its highest

point.

Loosen needle clamp

screw

Fig. 15 and insert needle with its flat side to

the right or toward the screw. Push needle up

as

far

as

it

will

go,

and

tighten screw securely

with screw driver.

 

NEEDLE

BAR

 

NEEDLE

CLAMP

SCREW

NEEDLE

Ii

 

HOLDER

 

Fig.

15

Always use the type of needle recommended

by

the

supplier

of

your

machine.

Test

on

a

flat

surface

to

be

sure

it

is

not

bent

(Fig.

16.

12

FLAT SIDE

Fig.

16

HOW

TO

THREAD

MACHINE

THE

 

Place

a

spool

of

thread

on

spool

pin

and

raise

take-up

lever

to

its

highest

point.

Refer

to

Fig.

Pull

thread

through

slot

of

upper

thread

guide

down

and

around

tension

discs

(2)

up

into

thread

check

spring

(3)

under

the

thread

retainer

(4,

up

into

the

middle

thread

guide

(5)

and

on

up

into

the

eye

of

the

take-up

lever

6

right

to

left.

Return

thread

through

middle

thread

guide

7

down

through

lower

guide

8)

and

into

needle

bar

thread

guide

(9.

Thread

needle

from

left

to

right,

puiling

about

inches

of

thread

through

needle.

 

the

17.

Irom

four

  • 13

PREPARING TO SEW

Hold the

end

of the upper

thread

loosely

and

revolve

hand wheel toward

you

slowly

until

loop

of

bobbin

thread

(Fig. 18)

is

drawn

up

through the needle hole.

Draw both threads to

the right (Fig. 19) and under presser foot toward back of the machine.

REMOVING THE WORK

Stop machine with take-up at its highest point. Raise presser foot. Pull fabric toward back

of machine, keeping thread in presser foot

slot

to avoid bending the needle. Hold both threads taut and cut on thread cutter, leaving machine thread ends about four inches long. Nevet operate the machine when it is threaded unless there is material under the presser foot.

14

I

Fig.

18

Fig.

19

HOW

TO

ADJUST

THREAD

TENSIONS

Always

adjust

the

upper tension

with

the

toot

presser

down,

the

tension

is

automatically

released

as

when

it

is

raised.

increase

To

the

tension

the

upper thread,

dial

on

turn

(Fig.

20)

the

right,

to

clockwise.

decrease,

or

turn

the

left.

The

to

higher

the

number

the

dial

the

on

tighter

the

tension.

Before

adjusting

the

lower

tension

he

that

the

sure

machine

is

threaded

properly.

When

to

necessary

change

the

bobbin

tension,

small

turn

cFig.

21)

screw

side

bobbin

of

clockwise

on

tighten,

to

case

counter

clockwise

loosen.

to

When

the

and

under

tensions

upper

balanced,

properly

are

Bobbin

perfect

Tension

stitch

Adjustment

Screw

a

will

be

formed

with

both

threads

in

Fig.
22.

Perfect

stitch

terlocking

in

fabric

(Fig.

I-

When

the

tension

is

tight,

upper

too

the

lower

thread

is

pulled up

the

over

thread

which

is

lying

upper

flat

the

on

Upper

fabric

thread

Fig.

23).

tension

tight

too

Fig.

When

the

under

tension

is

tight,

too

the

thread

forms

loops

upper

the

over

lower

thread

lying
24.

flat

the

fabric

on

  • 21 Fig.

Fig.

Under

thread

tension

tight

too

Fig.

-

15

‘To

22

23

21

HOW

TO

USE

THE

AUTOMATIC

DARNER

 

To

release

the

pressure

from

the

presser

foot

so

the

material

can

be

moved freely

for

darning

and

mend.

ing,

turn

burled

nut

(“B”,

Fig.

25)

in

direction

of

arrow,

or

clockwise,

and

darner

“A”

pops

up.

To

return

pressure

to

normal,

push

darner

“A”

 

all

the

way

down

again.

For

a

slighter

pressure

when

 

sewing

thin

materials,

push

darner

only

part

way

down.

Test for

correct position

on

a

scrap

of fabric.

HOW

TO

EMBROIDER

WITH

A

HOOP

 

It

is

easy

to

follow

a

stamped

design

or

to

work

free

hand

when

embroidering

or monogramming.

(See

Figs.

26

and

27.

Release

the

pressure

from

the

foot

by

turning

the

burled

nut

on

the

automatic

darner

in

the

direction

of

the

arrow,

or

clockwise.

 

Turn

the

dial

drop

feed

to

“E”

position.

Stretch

the

fabric

in

an

embroidery

hoop,

and

place

under

the

needle

after

removing

the

presser

foot.

Set

the

stitch

width

at

the

size

you

prefer

and

lower

the

presser

bar

lifter.

Then

operate

the

machine

at

a

rather high

 

speed

while

mov

ing

the

hoop

slowly

with

both

hands.

Work

carefully

and

he sure

to

keep

fingers

out

of the

path

of the

needle.

 

  • 16

F’g.

25

Fic

96

j

F

c

27

/

Fig.

28

Fig,

29

HOW TO USE ATTACHMENTS

1.

Narrow Hemmer.

With

the

needle in its highest

position replace

regular

presser

font

with narrow

hemmer

Fig.

28

For a plain narrow hem, make a 1 8 inch double

fold

for about two inches along edge of

fabric.

Hold

each

end

of

the

two-inch

fold,

slip

underneath

hemmer.

Bring

fold

up

into the scroll of hemmer,

draw forward to end and fasten with point of needle.

Lower presser bar

lifter.

Gently pull ends of thread

as you start stitching.

 

Guide material slightly to right, and

it

will

automat

ically take

a double turn

through scroll.

 

Lace Trimmed Hem.

 

To attach

lace

to hem,

insert

lace

in

the slot

next

to needle

Fig. 29

.

Sew hem as above. guiding

lace

under needle and hem into scroll.

17

Lace

Edge

 

with

Invisible

Stitching.

 

Hold

lace

1

8

inch

from

raw

edge

on

right

side

of

fabric.

Insert

both

in

scrnll

as

for

plain

narrow

hem

Fig.

 

30

Let

hem

roll

over

and

sew

in

lace.

Press

lace

out

flat

along

edge

with

hem

turned

up.

For

a

little

fullness

in

lace,

feed

it

freely

under

scroll.

French

Seam.

 

With

right

 

sides

together,

place

top

piece

of

material

1/8

inch

inside

edge

of

lower

piece.

Insert

in

hemmer

scroll,

allowing

hem

to

roll

over

and

sew

in

top

fabric,

making

French

seam.

Flat

Felled

Seam.

Open

out

French

seam

 

and

insert

rolled

edge

in

scroll

of

hemmer.

Edgestitch

to

lay

seam

flat

Fig.

31.

Fig.

30

I’

  • 18 Fig.

31

  • 19

Fig.

32

4

Fig.

33

2.

Quilting

Guide.

This

guide

for

making

parallel

rows

of

stitching

is

attached

by

piacing

the

pronged

holder between

the presser

foot

A

and

the presser

foot

clamp

screw

B

Fig.

32

Adjust

the

curved

bar

C

to

press

lightly

on

the

fabric.

By

letting

the

guide

ride

on

the

first

stitching

line.

successce

rows

vilI

be

an

equal

distance

apart.

When the bar

is

attached

so

that

the

curved part

is

to

the right

of

the

needle,

it

may

also

serve

as

a

seam

width

guide.

3.

Seam

Gauge.

Fasten

gauge

with

screw

provided

in

one

of

threaded

holes

in

the

machine

bed

next

to

the

needle

plate.

Adjust

to

the

seam

width

preferred

by

sliding the slot

of the gauge along

the

screw

before

tightening.

Guide

fabric

so

edge

just

touches

flat

surface

on

seam

gauge.

See

Fig.

33.

4.

Sewing

on Buttons.

Exchange the

regular presser

 

foot

for

the

one

provided

to

sew

on

buttons.

(See

Fig.

34.

Turn

the

feed

to

“F”

position.

Place

button

and

fabric

under presser

foot.

Determine

the

width

of

the

 

stitch

needed

to

enter

each

hole

 

of the

button

by turning the hand

wheel

slowly

toward

you

as

you

adjust

the

zigzag regulating

knob.

Then

lock

at

that

width.

‘Fake

six

or

seven

stitches

to

fasten

the

button

securely.

Then

turn

the

knob

to

0

and

take

two

or

three

more

stitches

in

one

hole

to

lock

the

threads.

Repeat

the

procedure

when

sewing

on

four-hole

buttons.

 

Snaps

and

hooks

may

be

stitched

on

in

the

same

Fig.

34

manner.

 

5.

Making Buttonholes.

 

Replace

the

regular presser

 

foot

with

the buttonhole

foot which

is equipped

with

a

measure

ment

gauge

 

(Fig.

35

.

Set

the

stitch

length

near

0

for

a very

short

stitch.

The

width

of

the

stitch

should

be

set

at

2

oi.

slightly

under

for

a

daintier

buttonhole.

If

a

heavier

buttonhole

is

req

 

uired.

cord may

be strung through

the

hole

in the foot.

Mark

the

desired

length

 

of

buttonhole

on

the

fabric

or

set

the

gauge

so

that

the

distance

between

the

curved

marker

and

the

needle

is

equal

to

that

of the

 

buttonhole.

Sew

the

first

side

of

the

buttonhole,

from

A to

B.

stopping the

machine

with the

needle

in

the

material

at

the

right

 

side

of

stitching,

Fig.

36.

 
  • 20 -—

Fig.

35

pivot

turn

needle

foot. and

the

using

Lift the presser

as

Fig.

degrees

end

for

see

end

fabric

the

or

the

that

make

foot

the

sure

lowering

Before

presser

Lower

up straight.

presser

lined

stitching

of

first

row

needle

raise

just enough

to

hand

by

and

wheel

foot

turn

tabric.

out

knob

zigzag

and turn

position

“F”

dial

feed

the

to

Turn

make

stitches

five

about

Take

width.

to

or

to

the needle

with

out

niachine

Stop

tack

the

bar

at

a

feed

Turn’ the

down.

foot

leave the presser

but

fabric,

the

original

width

stitch

in

and

or

“N”

return

dial

to

that

Turn

setting.

starting

stitches

first

the

the end

have reached

When

the buttonhole.

you

side

second

the

stitch

Proceed to

fabric.

the

needle

the

with

out

again

machine

the

stitching,

stop

row

six stitches

to

five

take

and

width

or

at

“F”,

dial

set

feed

to

the

down,

foot

turn

the

Leave

presser

foot.

the

raise

do

of the fabric, but

not

needle

the

with

out

machine

the

Stop

buttonhole

at

close the

and

will fasten the bar threads

prevent

or three stitches, which

take

and

width

two

stitch

to

Return

the stttching.

cut

careful

to

being

not

ripper,

the

with

opening

buttonhole

seam

the

Cut

ravelling.

be

which

torn

tarlatan

can

place

or soft material,

or paper,

sheer

make buttonholes

plan

on

to

you

to make several buttonholes

scraps

wise

always

And

fabric

the

ttnder

stitching,

after

away

the

garment.

working

before

fabric

on

B\A

Fig.

36

Leave

needle

fabric

in

so

fabric.

B

becomes

for

second

row

of

point

of

of

A,

0

If

of

o

No.

4

it

is

is

180

a

36

B.

of

4.

SiX

2

of

of

oti

21

ADJUSTMENT

DROP

The height

Turn

materials.

darning

“F”

embroidering with

return

Turn

the

determine

chart

darner

and

drop

Fi.

Position

Darner

Sewing

Type

Partially

material

embroidery

(Embroiderv

(Normal)

material

thick

Sewing

FEED

of the

feed dogs

can

be adjusted

the

fabric

or

type

of work being done.

(Fig.

37

to

“S”

or

all

the

way

position

to

to

sew

on thin

position

for

to suit

dial

or

dial

to

the

a

hoop.

left

to

feed

to

“N”

or

normal.

Consult

the

following

position

types

of

of the

sewing.

feed

to

for

various

3

of

Sewing

thin

Darning,

hoop

with

S

Drop

Silk’,

Feed

E

N

down

All

the

way

up

Completely

down

22

NEEDLE

-

THREAD

-

FABRIC

-

STITCHING

GUIDE

Fabric

Extremely

tarpaulin,

duck,

etc.

heavy

sacking,

canvas.

Heavy

fabric,

upholstery

ticking,

denim,

leatherette,

etc.

Medium

drapery

suiting,

he2vv

fabric,

velveteen,

felt,

terry,

etc.

Medium

broadcloth,

percale,

chintz,

gingham,

linen,

taffeta,

sheer

wool,

shantung.

etc.

Sheer

crepe.

plastic

voile,

lawn,

climity,

handkerchief

linen.

film,

etc.

Very

lace,

sheer

chiffon,

hatiste,

organdy,

ninon,