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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
TIRANA
Culinary
comeback
A history of Albanian
food
Pëllumbas Cave
Stalactites and
skeletons
Spring/Summer 2011
3
CONTENTS
Spring/Summer 2011 tirana.inyourpocket.com
Arriving in Tirana 5
How to get here
Glossary 6
Tirana trave tips from A-Z
History 7
Occupations, liberations, damnations
Culture 8
Cinemas & theatre
Where to stay 10
A good night’s sleep
Restaurants 18
From Albanian to Japanese, Tirana has it all
Albanian cuisine today 28
Good food is back
Cafés 29
Where to sip a kafe ekspres
Nightlife 30
Drink and dance the night away
Contents
What to see 34
Mosque, tower, horse
Around town 39
Mountains, caves, castles and towns
Getting around 40
Planes, buses, trains and cars
Mail & Phones 48
Keeping in touch
Shopping 50
Souvenirs, fashion and malls
Directory 52
From banks to real estate agents
Maps & Index
City map & Street register 64-65
Index 66

The entrance to Tirana’s clock tower
Imaginative graffiti in the Selvia area
www.inyourpocket.com
Located amidst government buildings and
embassies in the heart of Tirana, this new complex
is the capital’s only 5-star hotel and the unrivalled
choice for international travelers and impeccable
business events. Shops, bars and restaurants await
you right outside in the Sheraton Plaza Shopping
Mall, just moments from your room.
151 rooms, including 95 deluxe rooms, 55 suites and the
Presidential Suite
50 Club rooms with exclusive access to the Club Lounge
“Metropolitan” Restaurant offering Albanian and
international cuisine
“Infinity” Bar & Terrace
Function rooms for over 500 guests
Indoor and outdoor swimming pools
Health club with fitness centre and sauna
Shopping Mall with a variety of shops & cafés and a cinema
“Il Pomodoro” Food Court located in the Shopping Mall
Sheshi Italia, Tirana, Albania
Tel: +355 42 274707
Fax +355 42 274711
reservations.tirana@sheraton.com
www.sheraton.com/tirana
4
Tirana In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
tirana.inyourpocket.com
5
Spring/Summer 2011 tirana.inyourpocket.com
It’s said that every country gets the leaders it deserves.
I f that’s the case than Albanians apparently don’t
deserve much, as their politicians have been gambling
with their future for the past two years. Ever since the
disputed 2009 elections, both the Democratic and So-
cialist party are guilty of sabotaging Albania’s progress
by delaying the drafting of much-needed laws, causing
scandal after scandal and generally making a mess of
things while all noses should be pointing firmly in one
direction. Demonstrations got out of hand in January,
and three civilians ended up dead, while the politicians
shi fted blame again. This is especially sad as it’s clear
that Albanians are mature enough to understand what’s
going on – so it seems to be the political class that is
playing a very dangerous game with an increasingly disil-
lusioned populace.
But don’t let stories about the local power-mongers put
you off from visiting Albania. The locals remain heartwarm-
ingly welcoming, and the country needs international
contact now more than ever. In this issue of Tirana In Your
Pocket we highlight one of the most important aspects
of foreign travel: the food. If it’s no good, a country is not
worth visiting. But in the case of Albania there’s good news
– it’s good, it’s getting better all the time, and it’s very
affordable. Read all about it in the article by guest writer
and world-famous food critic Rose Dosti on page 28. Then
walk off the fat on a wonderful daytrip to the Pëllumbas
cave; see page 39 for details.
That, plus the usual reams of restaurant, hotel and
nightlife reviews and other essential information. We would
be delighted to hear about your Albanian experience; write
your own comments below the reviews on our website or
write to us at tirana@inyourpocket.com.
ARRIVING
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Tirana In Your
Pocket 2006-2011. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. +370 5 212 29 76).
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. We welcome all readers‘
comments and suggestions. We have
made every effort to ensure the accuracy
of the information at the time of going to
press and assume no responsibility for
changes and errors.
The Tirana In Your Pocket city guide is the only dedicated
English-language guidebook to Albania‘s capital, and is
part of a Europe-wide series of acclaimed city guides.
In Your Pocket guides are written for foreign travellers
and residents, to provide honest, critical information that
makes visiting the city easier for foreign visitors. As a
private and commercial initiative, Tirana In Your Pocket
has been written and researched by a team of local and
foreign travel guide experts. The opinions in the guide are
those of the writers, and are not in any way meant to glorify
or denigrate the city, merely to point out the merits and
shortcomings that we think foreign travellers should know
about. Every guidebook has its faults, so we appreciate
any information that would lead to improving the next
issue. Emails can be sent to tirana@inyourpocket.com.
Udhëzuesi i qytetit Tirana In Your Pocket (Tirana në xhe-
pin tuaj) është udhëzuesi i vetëm në gjuhën angleze që i
kushtohet kryeqytetit të Shqipërisë dhe është pjesë e një
sërë udhëzuesve të njohur të qyteteve në mbarë Evropën.
Udhëzuesit In your pocket janë hartuar për udhëtarët e
huaj dhe për të huajt që banojnë në Tiranë, që të sigurojnë
informacione të sinqerta kritike që e bëjnë vizitën në qytet
më të lehtë për të sapoardhurit.Si një nismë private treg-
tare, Tirana In Your Pocket është shkruar dhe hartuar nga
një ekip i ekspertëve vendas dhe të huaj të udhëzuesve të
udhëtimit. Mendimet në udhëzues vijnë nga ata, dhe në
asnjë mënyrë nuk kanë për qëllim që të lavdërojnë apo të
nxjerrin në dritë të keqe qytetin, por thjesht të tregojnë
meritat dhe mangësitë, të cilat ne mendojmë se udhëtarët
e huaj duhet t‘i dinë. Çdo udhëzues ka të metat e veta,
prandaj ne do të çmonim çdo sygjerim që do të shpinte
në përmirësimin e botimit të ardhshëm. E-mailet mund të
dërgohen në tirana@inyourpocket.com.
About this guide - Lidhur me këtë udhëzues
The shadow of the Et’hem Bey Mosque
falls on Tirana’s 19th century clock tower.
Recently renovated, the clock is one of
Tirana’s few sights and was originally
used by visitors of a nearby market,
telling them when to shut shop and go
pray or go home. Now it’s used by people
catching the bus from the city bus station next to it, and
as a handy point of reference for foreign visitors.
Cover story
In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of
late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands (Den
Bosch, Utrecht), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Brac
and Senj), in Slovenia (Celje), in Serbia (Nis) and in
Switzerland (Zurich). A new guide to Minsk, Belarus,
will be the next In Your Pocket to launch.
We have also begun rolling out iPhone apps to all our
cities. We will be launching even more In Your Pocket
guides as apps throughout 2011: to find out which ci-
ties we will be covering, and to keep up to date with
all In Your Pocket news and events, like In Your
Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket)
or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).
Europe In Your Pocket
Editorial
Editorial management
Rentapocket.com: Jeroen van Marle, Sco
Fact-checking Sil via Çaushi
Contributor Rose Dosti
Layout & Design Tomáš Haman
Photos and cover Jeroen van Marle
The TIYP team would like to thank Glenda
Pashko, Stavri Çifligu, Ikuko Fujimoto,
Marta Karwat, Münife Danacı and our
good friends at Avis for their support.
Sales & Distribution
Manager Alida Karakushi
alida.karakushi@inyourpocket.com
Publishers Gazmend Haxhia,
Jeroen van Marle, Sco
Tirana In Your Pocket
© Albania Experience Sh.P.K.
Rr. Elbasanit, Nd.10, H.5,
1010 Tirana, Albania
Tel: +355 4 225 56 55
Fax: +355 4 227 19 60
tirana@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1587-2378
Printing Evropa92
Kochani, Macedonia
Published 10,000 copies,
twice a year
“The biannual Tirana In Your Pocket is a good source
of information. [TIYP] lists what’s going on and can be
downloaded free or bought at bookshops, hotels and
some of the larger kiosks for 400 lekë.”
Rough Guide Europe, 2010
“For instant city guides, check out inyourpocket.com.
Its 50 European city guides are regularly updated and
available, for free, on the web or as PDF downloads.”
Sunday Times Travel Magazine, April 2010
“These [In Your Pocket] guides are very well written and
I was quite impressed.”
Simon Calder, senior travel editor at The Indepen-
dent, August 2, 2009
“We visited Tirana as an independent group. In Your Pocket
has been an excellent help in providing us the information
which we need. There are not any other companies that
supply honest hotel, restaurant and nightlife info.”
Greg Axon, United Kingdom, 4-2-2009
“You are great! Best city guide ever! Keep up the good
work!” Igor Simac, 5-4-2009
“Loved your Tirana publication, it was very informative.
I know officials read your publication and are sensitive
to its message... maybe this will send them one: streets
need to be cleaned up and made pedestrian friendly!”
Carol Zachary, USA, 5-5-2009
“I’m eagerly waiting for the new Tirana and Skopje In
Your Pocket guides!”
Jonas Eklund, Sweden, 22-5-2009
Others about TIYP
Tirana’s Tourist Information Centre is on Rruga Ded Gjo
Luli, right behind the National History Museum. Drop by
to get information about the city and copies of Tirana In
Your Pocket. See p.44 for more information.
Tourist information
Czech
Republic
Poland
Romania
Serbia
Bosnia
Kosovo
Albania
Greece
FYR Macedonia
Bulgaria
Montenegro
Croatia
Slovenia
Austria
Switzerland
Ukraine
Belarus
Lithuania
Latvia
Estonia
Russia
Germany
Netherlands
Northern
Ireland
Ireland
By plane
Tirana’s gleaming Nënë Tereza (Mother Teresa) airport, 17km
northwest of Tirana, is a 30-45 minute drive from the city
centre. Beside the baggage carousel in arrivals there’s an
ATM, a BKT currency exchange office with so-so rates and
the airport’s tourism information desk. Buy a local SIM card
at the Vodafone or Eagle Mobile shops. Ignore the taxi drivers
harassing new arrivals, but take an official yellow airport taxi
to the centre for 2000 lek, or 2500 lek at night. Alternatively,
hop on the Rinas Express airport bus (250 lek) to Skanderbeg
Square, departing every hour between 08:00 and 19:00.
By train
Albania has no international passenger trains. Weary rail
arrivals from Shkodra, Durrës and Pogradec will find them-
selves deposited at Tirana’s garden shed train station, at the
northern end of Blv. Zogu I. It’s a 15-20 minute walk down this
boulevard to Skanderbeg Square, a short taxi ride or a hop on
any bus heading that way from the bus stop across the street.
By bus
Tirana has skipped the ‘build a bus station’ stage of urban
evolution, and buses drop off passengers at various points
along the ring road; It’s a 15-20 minute walk down this bou-
levard to Skanderbeg Square, a short taxi ride, or hop on any
bus heading that way from the bus stop across the street.
By car
Driving to Albania is an option now that roads and safety
have greatly improved - but don’t expect to get there quickly.
Coming from Greece, expect long queues and grinding
bureaucracy on both sides of the border. The Kakavija and
Kapshtica crossings are open 24hrs; Qafë Boti near Konispol
and Tre Urat near Permet open till 22:00.
From Macedonia, Qafë Thanë is the main crossing, though
the Tushemisht crossing near Pogradec is quieter, has
beautiful scenery and few delays. Together with the Bllade
crossing near Peshkopi they are all open till 22:00; the Gorica
crossing near Lake Prespa is open till 19:00.
From Kosovo, you can quickly cross over at Qafë Morina and
Qafë Prush, from Montenegro at Han i Hotit and Muriqan.
By ferry
Arriving by ferry from Italy is perhaps the most relaxed way of
entering the country. There are ferry lines from several Italian
cities to the ports of Durrës, Shengjin and Vlora. Flying to
Corfu and using the daily ferry to Saranda or the summertime
hydrofoils to Saranda/Himara is often the cheapest way to
reach South Albania (see www.ionian-cruises.com).
6
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
7
Spring/Summer 2011 tirana.inyourpocket.com
HISTORY GLOSSARY
Crime & Safety
The well-being of honoured guests (you) is a major source
of concern and pride for the locals - a tradition dating back
to Illyrian times. Rather than being mugged in Albania,
you’re more likel y to be overwhelmed wi th hospi tali ty.
Still, it’s a good idea to apply the universal rules: stay
alert at all times, hide valuables or leave them at home,
don’t wander around unlit areas at night. Be very careful
where you walk - i f there’s not a missing manhol e lid,
there’s another kind of big hole or bump, bits of sharp
metal sticking out of the concrete, garbage or dog poo.
Bring a torch as even in cities it can be pitch dark at night
away from the main streets.
Driving & Roads
The roads may be improving rapidly, Albanians remain the
worst drivers in Europe. Easily distracted, always using one
or two hands for talking on the phone and smoking, eager
to honk, disrespectful of speed limits, ignorant about the
merits of seatbelts, stopping in the middle of the road to
chat with a pedestrian relative, and inconsiderate to other
road users, they overtake in corners at high speeds in their
Mercedes as i f they were still riding donkeys. That said,
city-centre traffic usually only crawls along at 20-30km/hr
with little risk of damage. Before 1991, only Party officials
were allowed to own and drive around in cars and there
were only about 600 cars in Albania, many of them deluxe
Mercedes and Vol vos. When the restriction was li fted,
Al banians brought thousands of cars into the country
from Germany, Italy and Greece. At the time, there were
no traffic regulations, no driver’s license requirements, no
traffic enforcement and no traffic lights. Much of this has
changed, but driving still requires nerves of steel and a
good map. The maximum speed is 40km/hr in urban areas
and villages, 80km/hr outside these areas, 90km/hr on
dual carriageways and 110km/hr on highways. Drivers
should have a fire extinguisher, yellow vest and first aid kit
in the car, and always drive with the lights on. In mountain
areas having snow chains is a good idea in winter.
Money
The Albanian currency is the lek (plural lekë). The exchange
rate is: €1 = 140 lek, £1 = 166 lek, US$1 = 103 lek (Feb
2011). Banknotes come in denominations of 200, 500,
1000, 2000 and 5000 lek, while there are coins of 5, 10, 20,
50 and 100 lek. Although hotels and some other businesses
quote prices in euros or dollars, payment is mostly required
in lek. When asking for prices in daily life, beware the curious
habit Albanians have of telling you the price in ‘old leks’
with an additional zero (so 100 lek becomes 1000 lek).
Despite the obvious advantages, this is never used to rip
off foreigners, which says a lot about the way visitors are
treated in this country.
ATMs (‘bankomats’) are now easily found in every Albanian
town, and do not charge a fee for transactions, though your
home bank may. If you insist on bringing along cash foreign
currency, you can change your euros or dollars at banks and
(better) at exchange offices in town. People who still believe
in travellers’ cheques can cash them at most banks at a fee
and a long wait. The money men waving wads of banknotes
by the statue on Skanderbeg Square offer competitive rates
and are generally honest. Spend your lekë before leaving the
country as they can’t be exchanged abroad.
Smoking
Smoking is officially prohibited in public places, enforcement
has been weak. However, plans for 2011 include stricter
supervision with hefty fines for both the offenders and venue
owners, and a 40% increase of tax on cigarettes.
Visas & Passports
Citizens of the EU, most other European countries, US, Canada,
Australia, New Zealand, and Japan can enter Albania without
a visa. Other travellers need to get a visa from an Albanian
embassy or consulate abroad before travelling to Albania.
Before you set off, confirm your entry requirements at the
nearest Albanian embassy or consulate. Check all border
requirements at www.mfa.gov.al. There is no longer an entry or
departure tax. Your passport needs to be valid for three months
after departing Albania. Citizens of the EU, Iceland, Norway, USA,
Canada, Australia and New Zealand may enter Albania using
an ID card, though we recommend still taking your passport
anyway as airlines and officials are all too quickly confused.
Albania’s population is 3,986,952 (July 2010 estimate).
Apart from Albanians living in Albania proper, there
are more than two million ethnic Albanians in Kosovo,
hundreds of thousands in Macedonia and Montenegro,
and an estimated two million in the United States, Swit-
zerland, Germany, Greece, Italy and Canada. Although
Albania is often touted as a majority Muslim country in
the foreign press, 70% of the population is estimated to
be non-religious or non-practising. Of the others, 21% is
Muslim, 6% is Orthodox, and 3% is Catholic.
Tirana officially has 750,000 inhabitants (though the
real number may be much higher), covers 42 square
kilometres and lies at 110m above sea level, though
two mountains of 1612m and 1828m also rise within
the municipality. The city has some 30,000 students of
which nearly half attend the University of Tirana.
Geography
At 28.748 square kilometres, Albania is a bit larger than
Wales or Maryland. The longest rivers are the Drini,
Semani and Vjosa. The largest lakes are Shkodra, Ohrid
and Prespa. The highest mountain is Mt. Korabi near
Peshkopi, at 2751m.
Basic data
By the seventh century BC, the Ill yrians (the apparent
ancestors of the Albanian nation) settle in what is now
Albania. In 229-168 BC the Romans defeat the Illyrians and
establish the protectorate of Illyricum.
4th Century
The Roman Empire is divided in 395 AD, and the territory
of today’s Albania falls into the Eastern (Byzantine) Empire.
14th Century
The Ottomans invade what is now Albania in 1385. Their rule
lasts more than 500 years.
15th Century
Skanderbeg, the Al bani an l eader, wages a war of
independence against the Ottomans starting in 1443 and
enjoys remarkable success in keeping them at bay until his
death in 1468.
19th Century
In the 1830s, the Ottomans crush Albanian autonomy.
Uprisings break out over taxation policy in the 1840s. After
Russia defeats the Ottoman Empire, the Prizren League
is founded in 1878 to fight for autonomy and against the
partitioning of Albanian territory.
20th Century
Local uprisings break out in 1909-1912. Albanians proclaim
independence in Vlora on November 28, 1912. The Treaty
of London recognises Albania in 1913, but Kosovo is given
to Serbia. In 1914, during WWI, Italy invades Albania. In
1920 Albania regains independence. In 1925 Ahmet Zogu
becomes president of the new Republic of Albania, but in
1928 Zogu proclaims a kingdom and crowns himself King Zog
I. He cooperates with the Italians, who invade again in 1939,
occupying Albania until 1943, when the Germans take over until
their retreat in November 1944. The Communist-led National
Liberation Front takes power. Yugoslavia, Albania’s erstwhile
ally, tries to absorb the country, causing Albania to break with
Belgrade in 1948. After 1956, when most of Eastern Europe
undergoes de-Stalinization, Albania maintains a hardline stance.
It criticises the Soviet Union, with which it breaks relations
in 1961. In 1968 Albania withdraws from the Warsaw Pact.
Albania cultivates relations with China. Imitating Beijing, Albania
purges ‘reactionary’ influences. In its own version of the Cultural
Revolution in 1967, it outlaws religion and closes all 2169 of
the country’s churches and mosques. In 1978 the leadership
condemns even China as revisionist and is left with no friends.
Party head Enver Hoxha dies on April 11, 1985.
1990
After the totalitarian regimes collapse everywhere else
in Eastern Europe, Communist Party leader Ramiz Alia
announces cautious democratisation in March. Reform
comes slowly. The People’s Assembly rescinds the ban on
religion and on travel abroad in May. On December 12 the
Democratic Party is founded, Albania’s first non-Communist
party in the postwar era. Nine days later, the authorities
dismantle the statue of Stalin in Tirana.
1991
In February, students at Enver Hoxha University launch a
strike, demanding reforms; weeks of protests culminate in
the toppling of Enver Hoxha’s statue in Skenderbeg Square.
Waves of refugees flee the country in March. On March 31
the first multi-party elections in 68 years result in a victory for
the Communists. In June the faults in the economy become
clear when thousands of Albanians seeking asylum in Italy
commandeer ships. An estimated 100,000 Albanians had
fled the country in the previous 12 months.
1997
Coll apsi ng pyrami d schemes spark months of ri oti ng
and lawlessness throughout Albania in January. In June,
parliamentary elections, held amidst nationwide unrest, result
in a landslide victory for the Socialists. President Berisha,
blamed for allowing the pyramid schemes to flourish, resigns.
1999
In response to Serb attacks on ethnic Albanians in Kosovo,
NATO launches an air war on Yugoslavia on March 25. The
war turns Albania into a NATO base of operations, and by May
500,000 Kosovars have flooded into the country.
2001
In October, Edi Rama, a former art lecturer and painter
supported by the Socialist Party, is elected mayor of Tirana and
initiates a series of projects that change the face of the city.
2005
In July, Sali Berisha’s Democratic Party wins the national
elections from Fatos Nano’s Socialists. The election results
are delayed after allegations of voting irregularities and
three deaths. OSCE monitors report that the elections only
partially complied with international standards. Novelist
Ismail Kadare wins the first international version of Britain’s
Man Booker Prize.
2006
Albania signs the Stabilisation and Association Agreement
with the EU, the first step towards closer cooperation with
the EU.
2007
In June, US president George W. Bush gets a hero’s welcome
on his visit to Albania, where he allegedly is robbed of his
watch during a meet and greet with the crowds in Fushe
Kruja.
2008
March 15 – An accident in a factory used for defusing old
munition causes series of explosions, wiping out the village
of Gërdec (14km from Tirana), killing 26 and wounding nearly
300 people. The explosions destroy hundreds of houses,
shatters windows of cars on the highway, and is heard as far
away as Skopje. The defence minister resigns.
2009
In April Albania joins NATO. In June Berisha’s Democratic
Party of Albania narrowly wins the tight-fought national
elections, which were marred by many irregulari ties. A
political stalemate ensues when the opposition Socialist
Party boycotts parliament after a ballot recount is refused,
and continues to organise many demonstrations.
2010
December – After delays due to dodgy Albanian passports,
the EU finally announces visa-free travel for Albanians to
Europe’s Schengen countries, starting just before Christmas.
On the day itself, there’s no huge increase in cross-border
traffic.
2011
January 21 – The political problems which to the frustration
of many Albanians have been dragging on since 2009
lead to a violent protest. Demonstrators attack the Prime
Minister’s residence, and nervous guards shoot at them,
killing three protesters. Foreign ambassadors continue to call
for calm, dialogue and compromise to solve the problems.
Yet even after this, politicians shamelessly continue their
blame games. Construction works around Skanderbeg's statue
8
CULTURE
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
Cultural centres
Not only do these foreign-run centres allow locals and
foreigners alike access to many materials, they are
important promotors of international culture, and support
many events.
Alliance Française D-4/5, Rr. Barrikadave 122, tel.
+355 4 222 56 97/+355 4 227 48 41, info@aftirana.
org, www.aleancafranceze.com. Borrow French books
or language-learning materials. QOpen 10:30 - 20:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
British Council E-2, Rr. Skenderbej 12, tel. +355 4
224 08 56, info@britishcouncil.org.al, http://www.brit-
ishcouncil.org/albania. The UK cultural and educational
centre. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Goethe Institut H-5/6, Rr. George W. Bush, tel. +355
4 222 20 17, www.goethe.de. The German cultural centre
has a reading room with textbooks and literature inside the
National Library.
Istituto Italiano di Cultura (Italian Institute of
Culture) H-6, Rr. Pjetër Budi 74, tel. +355 4 237 95
79, www.iictirana.esteri.it. Promotes Italian culture and
language with cultural events and language courses. QOpen
09:00 - 14:00, 15:00-17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
US Information Service (USIS) H/I-6, Rr. Elbasanit,
tel. +355 4 224 72 85. Browse American literature, history
books, periodicals and more at this centre beside the US
Embassy. Also at the USAID center. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Theatre, Opera & Dance
Black Box Theatre I-4/5, Sheshi Nënë Tereza, tel.
+355 4 224 75 98. Mostly avant-garde and student shows
inside the Art Academy. Once in a long while there’s a per-
formance in a foreign language.
Metropolitan Center (Cultural Center of Ti-
rana) E-4, Rr. Ded Gjo Luli, tel. +355 4 225 75 28,
q.metropolitane@gmail.com. A cultural centre that hosts
regular performances by the Tirana City Band, the Spekter
childrens’ folklore group, the Metropolitan Theatre group
(Teatri i Metropolit) and the Tirana Circus.
National Theatre (Teatri Kombëtar) F-4, Rr. Ser-
medin Said Toptani, tel. +355 4 222 30 22, info@teat-
rikombetar.gov.al, www.teatrikombetar.gov.al. This is
Tirana’s oldest theatre, built in 1940 to honour Mussolini
on his visit to Albania. Performances take place between
October and May, and range from Shakespeare to contem-
porary Albanian and foreign playwrights, though everything is
in Albanian. Q Box office open 09:00-13:00, 18:00-20:00.
National Theatre of Children (Teatri Kombëtar
i Fëmijëve) E/F-4, Sheshi Austria, tel. +355 4 222
24 46/+355 4 225 91 04, klaudjahila@gmail.com.
Occasional puppet shows for children in a grand old building.
Opera, Ballet & Popular Ensemble Theatre (Teat-
ri i Operas dhe Baletit dhe Ansamblit Popullor)
E-4, Sheshi Skenderbej, Palace of Culture, tel. +355
4 222 47 53/+355 4 222 74 71, toap@albaniaonline.
net. Occasional shows by Tirana’s underfunded but enthu-
siastic opera company. Q Ticket office open 09:00-12:00,
15:00-19:00.
Event information is notoriously difficult to get - visit the
websites of the venues listed here, keep an eye on post-
ers around town, and read the English-language papers for
upcoming events.
Cinemas
Academy of Film & Multimedia Marubi Rr.
Aleksandër Moisiu 76, tel./fax +355 4 236 51 88,
info@afmm.edu.al, www.afmm.edu.al. The Academy
of Fil m & Mul ti media, named after Shkodra’s famous
Marubi photographer famil y, has a cinema wi th screen-
ings of foreign movies every Thursday at 19:00 (and often
other days too) during uni versi ty term. Find the academy
to the northeast of the centre, near the terminus of the
Kinostudio bus line. See the English-language websi te
for what’s on. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Cl osed Sat, Sun.
Admission free.
Imperial Cinemas J-5, Rr. Frang Bardhi, Kristal Center
mall, tel. +355 44 80 45 95, info@imperialcinemas.al,
www.imperialcinemas.al. Big Hollywood and 3D films in
two large screening rooms, and two smaller ones at their
slightly cheaper Sheraton Mall location. In summer, there’s
an additional summer cinema in the Art Academy. Q Tickets
400-700 lek.
Millennium 2 Cinema F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, Pal-
lati i Pionierit, tel. +355 4 225 36 54/+355 69 204
42 37, fax +355 4 225 36 56, www.ida-millennium.
com. Inside the former Pioneer Palace, Millennium shows
recent American films in their original language with Alba-
nian subtitles. Book in advance for evening and weekend
screenings. Screenings at 10:00, 12:30, 15:00, 18:00,
20:30 and 23:00. One fine day, Millenium 1 will reopen in
a new building in the city centre. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
Tickets 200-500 lek.
The new Galeria Nasional mall on Rruga Barrikadave
10
WHERE TO STAY
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled
R Dataport L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant D Sauna
C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi
Symbol key
Until 1991, foreigners could only stay at two dreadful
hotels in Tirana. Things have changed dramatically, and
now a wide variety of accommodation is available, with
several good new small hotels and hostels. Most are found
around the bllok area, and between the main square and
the train station. Prices vary dramatically, and the price of
a good night’s sleep in both a top range suite is worth 500
nights in a simple guesthouse bed. If you go for budget ac-
commodation, be aware that English is not always spoken
(try Italian, German or Greek) and ask about their back-up
generator if you’d like the heating or a/c to work. For the
full hospitality experience, click to couchsurfing.com,
where a few dozen kind locals offer free use of their couch
for you to crash on for a few nights.
The room prices we list include breakfast unless men-
tioned otherwise. Hotel categories are based on the price
of the cheapest double room, not on the erratic local star
system. Prices are often quoted in euros, but generally
have to be paid in Albanian lek.
Cream of the crop
Top-notch rooms, with doubles priced from €150.
Grand H- 3, Rr. Ismail Qemali 11, tel./fax +355 4
224 79 96, tel. +355 4 225 32 19, info@grandho-
teltirana.com, www.grandhoteltirana.com. Once
you’ve wal ked i nto the Grand, you mi ght not want to
venture out again. This centrall y placed hotel is one of
the ci ty’s best, and i ts small size adds to i ts charm. The
comfy rooms are compl ete wi th TV and tel ephone. The
hotel also lays on frills like an indoor swimming pool,
jacuzzi and sauna. Q 30 rooms (singl es €120, doubl es
€160). PHALKCW
Rogner Europapark H-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit,
tel. +355 4 223 50 35, fax +355 4 223 50 50, info@
tirana.rogner.com, www.hotel-europapark.com. One
of Albania’s top hotels, not just for the rooms but also for
its reputation as a meeting point for locals and visitors.
The Rogner promises Western standards and delivers.
Each room is decked out with stylish wooden furniture,
satellite TV, radio, safe and fax outlet, and some have
balconies. The suites look great with their stone floors.
The lush garden has an astroturf tennis court, swimming
pool, playground and putting green - and even a well -
preserved bunker. The excell ent Apoll onia restaurant
and two café/bars are on si te. Q 117 rooms (singles
€210, doubles €250, 20 suites €320). PHARU
FLGKDCW
Sheraton Tirana Hotel J-5, Sheshi Italia, tel. +355
4 227 47 07, fax +355 4 227 47 11, reservations.
tirana@sheraton.com, www.sheratontiranahotel.
com. A huge hotel placed at the southern edge of the city
centre, overlooking the park. The comfy rooms with ‘sweet
sleeper’ beds will suit the needs of any suit, but for the
privileged there are the two Club floors with private check-
in and lounge. Facilities are top notch, with a health club,
indoor and outdoor swimming pools, conference facilities,
the Metropolitan restaurant, Infinity bar and the Sheraton
Plaza shopping mall. Room prices vary by season, so check
online. Q 151 rooms (singles €240, 95 doubles €260, 55
suites €380, presidential suite €2530). PHAR6U
FLGBKDCW
Xheko Imperial I- 4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit,
tel. +355 4 225 95 75/+355 68 202 97 77, fax
+355 4 224 68 52, contact@xheko-imperial.com,
www.xheko- imperial.com. The most gl am hotel i n
town resides along a quiet street in the bllok area. The
open jacuzzi bathrooms are any girl’s dream, and the
fairy-tal e sui tes wi th silk-draped four-poster beds are
really rather extravagant. There are less frivolous double
rooms too, and two excellent restaurants. Q 29 rooms
(7 singles €110, 6 doubles €150, 15 suites €250-350).
PHAILGBKW
Upmarket
Reasonably priced luxury; double rooms from €90-140.
Arber E- 4, Rr. Bardhok Biba 59, tel. +355 4 227 38
11, fax +355 4 227 38 13, reservation@hotelarber.
com, www.hotelarber.com. An excell ent opti on hi d-
den in the streets east of the Tirana International hotel.
The Arber has small, ef fi ci ent rooms, and is merci full y
qui et compared to many other hotels. Q 25 rooms (5
si ngl es €70-90, 19 doubl es €110, 1 sui te €150).
PHALKW
Brilant Antik F-5, Rr. Jeronim de Rada 79, tel. +355
4 225 11 66, fax +355 4 225 11 67, info@hotelbrilant.
com, www.hotelbrilant.com. A welcoming family-run hotel
in a quiet, central location. The Brilant Antik has large rooms
and a traditionally furnished Albanian/Italian restaurant.
English is spoken. Q 12 rooms (singles €60, doubles €90).
PARLKW
Chateau Li nza Qesar akë, Li nza, Komuna e
Dajtit, tel. +355 69 203 00 03/+355 69 203 00
09, reser vati on. makhotel s@gmai l .com, www.
chateaulinzahotel.com. Al ong the road out of town
towards Mount Daj ti , the resor t-styl e Li nza hotel i s a
forei gner favouri te for the sweepi ng ci ty vi ews from i ts
hi l l si de l ocati on. Rooms and apar tments are modern
and spaci ous, and i t’s wel l - equi pped for meeti ngs
and conferences too. Q 21 rooms (si ngl es €90-
110, doubl es €110-150, 45 apar tments €150-190).
PHAFLKCW
Comfort D-4, Rr. Asim Vokshi, tel. +355 4 223 32 72,
fax +355 4 223 31 23, info@hotelcomfort.al, www.
hotelcomfort.al. Offering some of the best comfort in town
at this price, this first-floor hotel, set back from the street,
surprises with its well-designed and modern rooms and cosy
breakfast bistro. Smoking is completely forbidden. Minuses:
a tiny reception area. Q 11 rooms (singles €50, doubles €
60-90). PALGW
Diplomat F-1, Rr. Sulejman Delvina 61, tel. +355 4
223 31 51, fax +355 4 223 04 57, diplomat@icc-al.org,
www.agoda.com. With a light Scandinavian feel and and
enthusiastic staff, the Diplomat has three floors of excellent,
parquet-floored rooms and a terracotta terrace with bar on
the roof. Q 14 rooms (5 singles €100, 9 doubles €140).
PHALKW
12
WHERE TO STAY
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
Bristol G-2, Rr. Nikolla Jorga, tel. +355 4 222 95 37,
fax +355 4 225 41 75, info@hotelbristol.al, www.hotel-
bristol.al. Modern and centrally located between Bulevard
Gjergj Fishta and the Rr. Myslym Shyri shopping street, the
Bristol has clean, bright ‘designer’ rooms, a well-stocked
bar. Q 20 rooms (12 singles €40, 8 doubles €60, triples
€75). PHALKW
Broadway H-3, Rr. Emin Duraku 80, tel. +355 4 225
46 19/+355 4 226 71 19, fax +355 4 224 39 67,
broadway@icc-al.org, www.hotelbroadway-al.com.
Next to the Selman Stermasi stadium, Broadway has a
Vegas thing going on. A glass li ft whisks you up to halls
decked out with pharaonic art, with rooms in correspond-
ing styles, and especiall y the suites Egypped up quite
impressively, with kitsch on all walls and a massage shower.
There’s a decent restaurant with a lush terrace too. Q 20
rooms (10 singles €60, 6 doubles €80, 4 suites €120).
PHARLGKW
California E-3, Rr. Mihal Duri 2/1, tel. +355 4 225
31 91, fax +355 4 225 31 92, california@albania-
online.com. Welcome to the Hotel Cali fornia, where you
can check out any ti me you like, but unlike pre-1990
Albania you can also actually leave. There’s no arguing
with the location of this place, and small but pleasant
rooms contain generally matching furnishings and shiny
bathrooms. Check out the fi fth floor, the owner’s favourite.
Q 25 rooms (singles €50, doubles €70, 5 family rooms
€70). PALGKW
City H-5, Rr. Ismail Qemali 8/1, tel./fax +355 4 224
77 99, reservations@hotelcitytirana.com, www.hotel-
citytirana.com. Clean, quiet and efficient rooms and friendly
staff in a small business hotel down an alley off the street.
The views are uninspiring as it’s jammed in between highrise,
but alternative vistas are offered by the elegant photos of
cities around the world that decorate the rooms and halls.
Ask for the larger top-floor rooms with balconies when you
book. Security is top-notch as the prime minister lives next
door and his goons patrol the streets. Q 15 rooms (singles
€32-60, doubles €75). PARLGW
Doro City D-1, Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha, tel. +355
4 223 22 06, fax +355 4 224 70 70, reservations@
hoteldorocity.com, www.hoteldorocity.com. Along the
busy ring road near the Durrës highway, Doro has quality
rooms fitted with plenty of wood, and some boasting large
terraces. It’s a few minutes drive west of the city centre. Q
53 rooms (8 singles €60-80, 45 doubles €70-110, suites
€100). PHARLBKW
Elysée H-5/6, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji 2/173, tel.
+355 4 222 28 80, fax +355 4 224 86 92, info@
hotelelysee-al.com, www.hotelelysee-al.com. A qual-
ity mid-range hotel, with friendly service and a top location
between the US and Italian embassies. Rooms are modern
and quiet, with king-sized beds and iron balconies, though
there’s no lift to get you between the four floors. There’s wifi,
but guests can also use a PC with internet at the reception.
Q 20 rooms (singles €50-65, doubles €75-85, triples €105).
PALBW
Ferari B-2, Rr. Don Bosko, tel. +355 4 235 64 02/+355
69 257 51 72, hotel _ferari@hotmail.com, www.
hotelferari.com. This unprepossessing but comfortable
four-story hotel best serves those who want to get away
from the city centre. It serves a nice Italian breakfast and
staff are polite. Q 26 rooms (doubles €50-60). PHAL
GBKDCW
Diplomat Fashion Rr. Irf an Tomini, tel. +355
4 223 50 90/+355 4 226 72 19, fax +3554 232
07 49, reservation@diplomatfashion.com, www.
diplomatfashion.com. A di f ferent ci ty on every fl oor.
On the New York, Milan and Paris-themed fl oors, rooms
have decorations on the walls, cupboards and even the
ceilings. Downstairs is a pl easant li brary and TV area,
a few conference rooms and a small fi tness and sauna
centre. Just west of the centre al ong Bl v. Baj ram Curri.
Q 26 rooms (si ngl es €85-110, doubl es €130-160).
PHARLGDW
Green House G-5, Rr. Jul Varibova 6, tel. +355 4
222 26 32/+355 68 207 22 62, info@greenhouse.
al, www.greenhouse.al. A small and charming business
hotel above the eponymous restaurant on a quiet street
near all the action. With well-designed boutique rooms,
some wi th shower and some al so wi th a bath, great
suites and wi fi throughout, it’s a comfortable base. Q
10 rooms (singles €100, doubles €110, suites €130-150).
PARLKW
Mondial F- 1, Rr. Muhamet Gj oll esha, tel./f ax
+355 4 223 23 72, hotelmondial@albamail.com,
www.hotelmondial.com.al. An el egant and modern
hotel wi th plush pl easant rooms that favour shades of
brown to more fri vol ous col ours. I t’s a kil ometre from
the centre, 50m from Sheshi Mustafa Qemal Ataturk. Q
28 rooms (singl es €90, doubl es €110, 6 sui tes €130).
PHALKCW
Sky Hotel G/H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, N°5/1,
tel. +355 4 241 59 95, fax +355 4 241 59 92, sky-
hotel_tirana@yahoo.com, www.skyhotel-al.com. This
business hotel unfortunately only occupies the two lowest
floors of the Sky Tower building, but although the view is not
panoramic, the rooms are lookers themselves, decorated
in black and dark purple with touches of gold. Standard
doubles are large with fabulous shower heads, while suites
have sli ding glass doors and separate seating areas.
Breakfast is served in the top-floor Sky Club. Q 33 rooms
(2 singles €90, 28 doubles €108-120, 3 suites €130-180).
PHARFLBKDW
Ti rana Internati onal Hotel & Conf erence
Centre E- 4, Sheshi Skënderbej 8, tel. +355 4 223
41 85, fax +355 4 223 41 88, hotel@hoteltirana.
com.al, www.tiranainternational.com. Bui l t i n the
1970s wi th help of the Chinese, for years Tirana’s main
l andmark was the onl y hi ghri se i n the countr y, wi th
propaganda sl ogans on the roof and escape tunnels for
the eli te. Now thoroughl y modernised, the rooms meet
international standards and the hotel is especiall y popu-
lar for conferences. The hi gher fl oors of fer great vi ews
over town and the mesmerising traf fi c on the square.
Go online for their special weekend rates. Q 166 rooms
(singles €112-130, doubles €124-142, suites €138-198).
PHARFLGKDW
Mid-range
Good value doubles from between €50-90.
Bermon Rr. Aleksandër Moisiu 12, tel. +355 4 237
79 39, fax +355 4 237 79 40, info@bermonhotel.
com, www.bermonhotel.com. A small, very neat hotel
with simple and basic rooms. Northeast of the centre near
Mount Dajti, just opposite the Kinostudio complex. Q 13
rooms (singles €40-50, doubles €50, 1 triple €60, 1 quad
€60, 1 suite €70). PALKCW
Chateau Linza is set at the foot of Mount
Dajti, ofering beautiful views over Tirana
while still in the freshness of the mountain
breeze. Te hotel has 21 rooms and suites
beside the swimming pool and gardens.
Te 45 fully furnished apartments are
perfect for your stay in Tirana besides
clean air they ofer plenty of privacy and
full service.
Qesarekë-Linzë, Komuna e Dajtit, Tiranë,
Albania Tel. +355 69 20 30 003/9
www.chateaulinzahotel.com
city views
Saranda - Albania, Tel. +355 825 55 92/3/4,
hotelbutrinti@hotmail.com, www.hotelbutrinti.com
Rruga Nacionale Durres-Rrogozhine, KM 12,
Tel. +355 579 22 115/6/7, hosamnasr@malirobitresort.com,
www.malirobitresort.com
For your week end break
14
WHERE TO STAY
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
15
WHERE TO STAY
Spring/Summer 2011 tirana.inyourpocket.com
Firenze D-4, Blv. Zogu I 72, tel. +355 4 224 90 99, fax
+355 4 227 20 77, firenzehotel@albmail.com. A surpris-
ingly good business hotel on the boulevard just north of the
main square. Firenze has charming staff, modern and well-
furnished rooms, some even with fireplaces, and abstract art
on the walls. Breakfast is served in the street-side restaurant.
Q 7 rooms (singles €50, doubles €70). PHALGK
Iliria I-6, Rr. Elbasanit, tel./fax +355 4 237 17 00,
info@iliriahotel.com, www.iliriahotel.com. Recentl y
overhauled, the Iliria’s glamorous lobby area gives access
to the smart clean rooms beyond, all fitted out with satellite
TV, internet and air conditioning. There’s a restaurant and
pleasant café terrace too. It’s located along Rruga Elbasanit,
a short walk southwest of the city centre, and the rooms are
all soundproofed. Convenient for various embassies, the uni-
versity and the Grand Park. Q 20 rooms (doubles €80-120,
suites €100-140). PHARLGKW
Kruja D-3, Rr. Mine Peza, tel. +355 4 223 81 06, fax
+355 4 223 81 08, reservations@hotelkruja.com,
www.hotelkruja.com. A decent business hotel north of
the main square, with standard rooms overlooking the calm
street out front. There’s also a restaurant and pleasant pave-
ment café outside. Q 16 rooms (1single €35, 11 doubles
€50, 3 apartments €75). PHRLKW
Lugano E-3, Rr. Mihal Duri Nd.24 H.7, tel./fax +355 4
222 20 23, tel. +355 68 209 87 88, luganohotel@yahoo.
com, www.bar-hotel-lugano.com ; www.hotel-lugano-
tirana.com. A small and warm little hotel in the very centre of
town. All rooms have a quality, florid bathroom and a balcony
overlooking the quiet street. Laundry service is included.Q 8
rooms (singles €40, doubles €50). PARLKW
Miniri E-4, Rr. Dibrës 3, tel. +355 4 223 09 30, fax
+355 4 223 30 96, hotel_miniri@yahoo.com, www.
miniri.com. The excellent location of this Croatian-owned
hotel, just off the main square, is not matched by its interiors.
The peach-coloured rooms are decent but nothing special,
with a small TV, phone and couch. The Croatian restaurant on
the premises is the redeeming factor. Q 30 rooms (singles
€25, doubles €40, triples €75). PHAKW
Nirvana E-3, Rr. Kavajës 96/2, tel. +355 4 223 52
70/+355 68 24 11 641, fax +355 4 223 52 71, ho-
telnirvana@hotmail.com, www.hotel-nirvana.com. Do
you think they would notice if you booked a room under the
name Kurt Cobain? This large villa set back from the busy
road has rooms in gaudy colours with fitting cosy furniture -
go all the way and get the one with the jacuzzi. Opposite the
Catholic Church. Q 15 rooms (singles €60, doubles €80, 1
suite - apartment €120). PHARLKW
Nobel E-4, Rr. Urani Pano, Nd 1, H 9, Njësia Bashki-
ake nr.9, 1016, tel. +355 4 225 64 44/+355 69 202
07 57, reservations@hotelnobeltirana.com, www.
hotelnobeltirana.com. Friendly staff, cheerfully coloured
and affordable rooms, and a central location - Nobel ticks
all the boxes. Tucked behind the Tirana International Hotel,
the Nobel has modern furnishings, wireless internet and a
decent Italian restaurant on the ground floor. Q 6 rooms
(singles €40, doubles €50). PAKW
Palma H-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri 2, tel. +355 4 223 56
31/+355 4 223 56 32, fax +355 4 225 61 31, info@
hotel-palma.com, www.hotel-palma.com. A small, mod-
ern hotel in a central location in the bllok, with decent rooms
and a restaurant. Q 12 rooms (singles €55, doubles €65, 2
suites €80). PHALW
Stela C-5, Rr. Dibrës, tel./fax +355 4 223 55 67,
hotelstela@albaniaonline.net, www.stelahotel.com.
With its white tile floors and large bathrooms, Stela seems
a good choice. However, the rooms have thin rugs and small
towels, and face a noisy street. All rooms are equipped with
TV and minibars, as well as tacky artificial flowers. Prices
vary by season. Q 9 rooms (6 singles €40, 3 doubles €50).
PHLKW
Theranda H-3, Rr. Andon Zako Çajupi 6-7, tel. +355
4 227 37 66, fax +355 4 227 36 89, reservations@
therandahotel.com, www.therandahotel.com. A charm-
ing small hotel of high standards, one of the few to apply
environmentally friendly techniques like solar panels. The
sel f-proclaimed boutique hotel has two modern buildings
(of which one pavilion-like space is used for meals), bright
rooms, and experienced staff. One street west of the bllok
area. Q 14 rooms (singles €45-80, doubles €60-100, 3
suites €65-110). PHRLW
Vila 3 G-5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, 3, tel. +355 4 226
65 82/+355 69 206 57 08, vila_3@yahoo.com. Seven
smart rooms in a small 1930s villa set away from the street,
behind the pyramid. Fitted out with flatscreen TVs, sparkling
en suite bathrooms and wifi, it’s perfect for business trips.
The two top floor rooms are large but have slanting ceilings
and only skylights for windows. Downstairs and on the
terrace surrounding the building there’s a good restaurant
and pizzeria. Q 7 rooms (5 doubles €65, 2 suites €80).
PALKW
Vila Belvedere F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani 25, tel. +355
4 225 19 35, vilabelvedere@albcomport.com. Perfectly
located in the centre along a recently pedestrianised street,
Belvedere doesn’t offer much of a view, but the rooms are
affordable and comfy. There’s a PC parked in the hall for
guests to use too. Q 8 rooms (singles €40, doubles €60).
PALKDW
Vila Park K-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Grand Park,
Kodrat e liqenit, tel. +355 4 225 65 97, fax +355 4 225
68 64, info@vilaparkhotel.com, www.vilaparkhotel.
com. Tirana’s most tranquil hotel is set 100 metres inside
the Grand Park, where the modern rooms with their balconies
overlook people strolling amongst the trees. There’s a top
class gym and sauna in the adjacent building that guests
can use for a fee. Note that car access is restricted during
daytime. Q 12 rooms (6 doubles €80, 6 suites €100).
PARFKDW
Vila Tafaj D-3, Rr. Mine Peza 86, tel. +355 4 222 75
81/+355 4 223 42 80, fax +355 4 223 59 56, vilatafaj@
yahoo.com, www.tafaj.com. An elegant 1930s building in
the city centre with a green garden at the back to relax in.
Rooms are spacious and modern, and laundry and minibar
is included in the price. The restaurant rustles up Mediterra-
nean food. Q 25 rooms (8 singles €50, 15 doubles €60-90,
2 suites €90-100). PHARLGBKW
Budget
Why pay more, indeed? Double rooms up to €50. In winter,
it’s important to ask if the heating in cheaper hotels runs
on electricity, and if the hotel has a back-up generator in
case the power goes pow.
Areela C- 4, Rr. Mahmut Fortuzi, tel. +355 4 222
65 79, fax +355 4 225 56 13, areela@hotelareela.
tk, www.hotelareela.tk. A very pleasant and well-sign-
posted place on a residential road near the train station,
the Areela is housed in a building with spotlessly clean
rooms and bathrooms. There’s only Albanian on TV but
that’s compensated by the erotic art on the walls. Q 12
rooms (singles €25, doubles €35, triples €50). Breakfast
500 lek. PJL
Briker D- 4/5, Rr. Barrikadave 3/24, tel. +355
4 222 95 43, hotelbriker@hotmail.com. A shor t
strol l from the mai n square and a few steps up from
the street, the modern Bri ker has rooms wi th wooden
fl oors, red/whi te furni ture and l arge bl ue-gl ass wi n-
dows. The room pri ce i s the same regardl ess of the
number of occupants. Q 9 rooms (si ngl es, doubl es
€40). PALW
Eder F-2, Rr. e Kavajës, tel./fax +355 4 223 91
70, tel. +355 68 24 71 233, info@ederhotel.com,
www.ederhotel .com. A smal l hotel wi th j ust f i ve
rooms of varyi ng styl es, wel l -equi pped for travel l ers on
a budget. Opposi te the Cathol i c church, a short wal k
from the mai n square and j ust around the corner from
a cl utch of embassi es, i t’s wel l pl aced i f you need to
pray, pl ay or get away. Q 5 rooms (3 si ngl es €29, 2
doubl es €36). PRL
Guva e Qetë
F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 4 223 54 91/+355
68 270 79 01, klidbalkan@albaniaonline.net. Small,
simple, clean and quiet rooms with fridge, en suite bathrooms
and TVs in a dead-central location.Q12 rooms (doubles
€15 - 30). P
Haxhiu E-5, Rr. Qemal Stafa 391, tel. +355 4 236
05 47, fax +355 4 236 05 48. This famil y-run hotel is
tucked away of f the main street and set behind potted
trees and fl owers. I t’s got a li ght and airy feeling and
vi ews of ol d til e roofs. The relati ve lack of ameni ti es
i s compensated by the management`s eagerness to
pl ease. Taxis to the centre are provi ded free. So are
cof fee and tea. The breakfast buf fet features fresh frui t
and pastri es. Q 11 rooms (6 singl es €30 and 5 doubl es
€40). PLW
Kalaja F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani 9, tel. +355 4 225
00 00. Kalaja amounts to a good budget choice. In this
hostel-like setup, you can either share a room or be sel fish
and take one all for yoursel f. Rooms are quiet and clean,
with tile floors, basic bathroom, a TV and a fan. Best of
all, the hotel is ensconced inside the ancient walls of
Justinian’s Fortress. Q 8 rooms (singles €10, doubles
€15, triples €20). P
Parlamenti F-5, Rr. Jeronim de Rada 75, tel. +355 4
226 50 24/+355 68 221 70 76. An excellent, affordable
and central hotel, on a quiet street and next door to the
Brilant hotel. Spacious rooms with attached bathrooms
overlook terracotta roofs, and the naughty soft focus photos
in the halls are a nice touch. Free airport pick-up; English-
speaking staff members are present after 10:00. Q 6 rooms
(doubles €20). P
Pike Loti G-6, Rr. Mihal Grameno, tel./fax +355 4
223 51 55. Not far from the city centre, this family-run
hotel offers small, clean and comfortable rooms. All come
with private bath, modem-compatible telephones, TV and
minibar. Some English is spoken. Q 7 rooms (5 singles €25,
2 doubles €33). PL
www.inyourpocket.com
16
WHERE TO STAY
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
17
WHERE TO STAY
Spring/Summer 2011 tirana.inyourpocket.com
Guesthouses
Staying at a guesthouse means you may be sharing the
house and some of the the facilities. But it’s a great way to
meet the locals and learn more about how they live. You’ll
be surprised at how people of meagre means lavish care
and attention on their apartment interiors.
Pension Andrea F-5, Rr. Jeronim de Rada 103, Rru-
gica Anton Arapi, tel. +355 4 225 69 47/+355 69 209
49 15, pensionandrea@gmail.com. In a quiet location
near the Parliament building, Pension Andrea’s four basic
rooms with TV, a/c and private bathrooms come with a lovely
landlady, Xhina Ballo, who speaks some English. To find the
unmarked pension, turn down the alley next to the Brilant
hotel; it’s the third door on the right. Q 4 rooms (singles
€20, doubles €30). P
Stephen Center B&B E-5/6, Rr. Hoxha Tahsim 1,
tel./fax +355 4 225 39 24, stephencenter@stephen-
center.com, www.stephencenter.com. The ‘Christian
environment’ provided in the cosy guestrooms of the Stephen
Center is available to missionaries and other travellers and
consists of simple but well-furnished rooms with twin beds,
private bathroom and adequate heating. There’s laundry,
wifi and airport pickup service too. Q 6 rooms (singles €30,
doubles €40). PALGKW
Hostels
The number of hostels in Albania has rocketed since
2009, anticipating the flood of smelly backpackers
expected to scrounge through the country in coming years.
Note that the Kalaja hotel (see Budget hotels) has a few
rooms that are available as dorms.
Freddy’s Hostel E- 4, Rr. Bardhok Biba 75, tel.
+355 4 226 60 77/+355 68 203 52 61, alfred-
salku@yahoo.com, www.freddyshostel.com. Emi -
nentl y sui tabl e for flashpackers, Freddy’s is j ust a short
wal k north of the mai n square down a qui et street. I t’s
more of a guesthouse than a true hostel, wi th modern
two- and three-bedded rooms (no bunk beds), i n several
apar tments spread over several adj acent bui l di ngs.
Al l rooms have cabl e TV and a/c, and some al so have
bal coni es. A si mpl e breakfast i s provi ded for beds over
€14. Sheets and towel s are changed dai l y too - i t’s l i ke
you never l eft your mummy. Q 8 rooms (€12-16 per
bed). PLGW
Hostel Albania E- 6, Rr. Beqir Luga 56, tel. +355
672 78 37 98, lira@hostel-albania.com, www.hostel-
albania.com. A villa in a quiet residential area east of the
city centre has been converted into a pleasant hostel, with
solid bunkbeds made in Kruja, a nice garden with an oriental
lounge corner and indoor parking for 2 vehicles. The base-
ment rooms are cool in summer, breakfast is included and
there’s bike rental for the intrepid. Q 4 dorm rooms (beds
€11-13). GW
Milingona D-5, Rr. Qemal Stafa 277, tel. +355 69 204
98 36/+355 69 226 07 75, milingonahostel@gmail.
com, www.milingonahostel.com. ‘The ant’ is a spank-
ing modern hostel in a canary yellow building near the main
market, with clean dorms, bunk beds and shared facilities
on each floor. There’s a kitchen (with occasional cooking les-
sons), a garden and a roof terrace where regular music and
film nights are held. Discounted rates for groups and from
Nov-Feb. Q 5 rooms (2 eight-bed dorms, 3 six-bed dorms,
€12 per person). GW
Republika C-5, Blv. Zog I, 66, tel. +355 4 222 24 00,
fax +355 4 222 50 14, republikahotel@yahoo.it. On
Tirana’s busy boulevard, the Republika has decent rooms,
some with en suite bathrooms, some using clean shared
facilities. Handy for both the centre and the city’s transport
options, but get a room at the back for a quiet night’s sleep.
Q 10 rooms (doubles €10-20, triples €30). P
Vila Verde B- 4, Rr. Karl Gega, tel. +355 4 224 82
32/+355 69 225 77 77. Near the train station, just down
the quiet street running parallel to the tracks. Expect low-
standard rooms with en-suite facilities that are bearable if
you need to catch an early train or a bus heading north. Q
7 rooms (singles €8, doubles €15). PL
Apartments
Albaniantrip D-4, Rr. Bardhok Biba 73/1, N °7, tel.
+355 68 405 85 29/+355 69 226 33 33, contact@
albaniantrip.com, www.albaniantrip.com. Modern self-
catering studios and apartments sleeping 3-9 people, in
four locations across the city centre. They can be rented per
room (with private or shared bathrooms) or as a whole, and
have wifi and a fully equipped kitchen with washing machine
and fridge. Q PW
Bujtina Shqiptare D-3, Rr. Urani Pano 9/1, tel. +355
4 222 04 33/+355 68 219 69 03, bujtinashqiptare1@
yahoo.com. Good budget accommodation in rooms spread
across three buildings just north of the city centre. The
rooms are basic but comfortable; facilities vary from room
to room but all have private bathroom and TV. Breakfast is
included in summer, but air-conditioning costs above €2 per
day need to be paid. Q 3 rooms (singles €15-20, doubles
€16-25). PLW
Tirana Backpacker Hostel H-5/6, Rr. Elbasanit
85, tel. +355 68 216 73 57/+355 69 211 95 96,
tiranabackpacker@hotmail.com, www.tiranahostel.
com. The charming, yell ow 1940s Villa Karajani is home
to the first hostel in the country, with a set of basic rooms
wi th bunk beds. Guests can use the garden ki tchen and
terrace, washing machine, internet, free linen and towels
- the downsi de is the traf fi c noise. the fri endl y owners
organise regular day trips, bar crawls, and film ni ghts.
Reception open from 08:00-22:00. One bl ock east of
the Rogner Hotel, at the end of Rruga I smail Qemali.
Q 5 rooms (4 si x-bed dorms, 1 fi ve-bed dorm, €12 per
bed). R6W
Out of town
Tirana’s playgrounds are in the green valley southeast
of town along the road to Elbasan, and in the foothills of
Mount Dajti, directly to the east of the city. Many modern
hotels and popular restaurants can be found here, though
keep in mind that you won’t get much sleep on weekend
nights - always check that they don’t have a wedding or
other party planned during your stay.
Belvedere (Dajti Tower) Mount Dajti, top cable
car station, tel. +355 67 401 10 35, marketing@
dajtitower.com, www.dajtitower.com. A space-age
construction beside the top station of the Mount Dajti cable
car, Belvedere sits at 1420 metres above sea level and of-
fers grand views over Tirana from its modern rooms. The
suites come with jacuzzi baths and comfy sofas, and tables
in the top-floor breakfast bar rotate around the windows.
When the cable car is closed on Mondays and during bad
weather, guests are shuttled to town by minibus. Q 24
rooms (4 singles €25, 18 doubles €60-100, 2 suites €60).
PHALKW
Dajti Park Tirana-Dajti road, km 8, tel. +355 4 230 22
33, fax +355 4 230 22 34, info@dajtipark.com, www.
dajtipark.com. A large, modern complex on the flanks of
Mount Dajti, just 9km east of Tirana and 800 metres above
sea level, the Dajti Park offers great views of the city and is
a pleasant place to chill out, enjoy the pool or let the kids
romp around. The guest rooms have balconies and are
well-equipped. Free pickup from the airport. Q 24 rooms
(singles €40, doubles €50, triples €60). PHLBKCW
Panorama Tirana-Dajti road, km 22, tel./fax +355
4 236 31 24, tel. +355 68 202 39 36, panorama@
albaniaonline.net, www.panoramadajt.net. A complex
in Mount Dajti national park offering wooden chalets amidst
landscaped grounds and a well-to-do restaurant. Shuttle
buses to the complex depart regularly from the top station
of the cable car, or you can drive up. Good restaurant on site
too. Q 11 rooms (7 doubles € 40, 2 singles €30, 4 chalets
€40). PTHARILEK
Venue Park Mullet, Tirana-Elbasan road, km 15, tel.
+355 68 328 66 66. In the summer many Tiranans trek
here to swim in the nice pool. The odd green marble effect
in the rooms can be endured in return for the stunning view
of Petrela Castle on the opposite peak. Q 9 rooms (singles
and doubles €20, 1 suite €30). PLBKC
Vila Toscana Ndroq, old Tirana-Durrës road km 12, tel.
+355 69 207 91 33/+355 69 207 91 31, vila.toscana@
yahoo.co.uk. A complex with a restaurant, lovely outdoor
seating and several good rooms, set in green countryside
at a short distance from Tirana. Q 16 rooms (14 doubles
€60, 2 suites). PILB
Stay at Freddy's In the cIty centre
and dIscover TIrana. Comfortable
modern rooms for 2·4 people,
from 612 per person. Cable T7,
wIñ and a/c In all rooms.
75 8ardhok 8Iba Street
TIrana, AlbanIa
Tel. (+J55)(0)68 20J 52 61
alfredsalku@yahoo.com
www.freddyshostel.com
Hotel Airport Tirana Rinas, tel. +355 4 830 01
90, fax +355 4 830 01 91, info@hotel-airportirana.
com, www.hotel-airportirana.com. The best (and
best-named) of several options by the airport, this hotel
is near the terminal yet quite a slog around the perimeter
fence, so call for a free pickup. The fire- and soundproof
rooms have bright colours, and bathrooms are ready for
take-off with their space-age shower cabins. A garden
restaurant with pool at the rear is also available for those
simply waiting for flights. Q 50 rooms (22 singles €70,
24 doubles €100, 2 junior suites €110, 2 apartments
€150). PHAFLGKCW
Verzaci Rinas, www.turisalba.com/verzaci. It’s
good that Gianni is no longer among us, as he’d faint at
the sight of this garish pink building with a big green V on
the facade. Inside, the rooms are plain and basic. Verzaci
is a 5-minute walk along the main road north from the
airport. Limited English spoken. Q 20 rooms (singles/
doubles €25). PKX
Vila Aeroport Rinas, tel. +355 68 207 70 98,
info@vilaaeroport.com, www.vilaaeroport.com.
The hotel’s ‘Aircraft Restaurant’ is the coolest you’ve
seen in your life. Right here in Tirana. Modelled after
a big silver plane, it’s parked along the road from the
airport to the north. Beside it, the Dallas-meets-Dracula
hotel building has a small disco and large rooms on the
top floor. Q 20 rooms (doubles €40, 4 suites €50-80).
PHARFLEBKDCW
Airport Hotels
18
RESTAURANTS
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
19
RESTAURANTS
Spring/Summer 2011 tirana.inyourpocket.com
Mrizi i Zanave F-5, Rr. Presidenti George W. Bush
1, tel. +355 4 226 99 31/+355 68 207 44 49.
Mrizi i Zanave restaurant is named after Gjergj Fishta’s
Renaissance-era sonnet book Valley of Goddesses.
Enjoy excellent traditional Albanian cuisine here in mod-
ern surroundings reminiscent of a tavern, with flagstone
floors, plenty of wood, and live music on weekends. I f
that’s not enough, the owner has a cooking show on TV.
To find it, walk east along Bulevardi Zhan D’Ark from the
Tanners’ Bridge and turn left into the first street. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. $$ PE
Oda E- 5, Rr. Luigj Gurakuqi, tel. +355 4 224 95
41. Eat Ottoman-styl e in Tirana’s onl y true tradi tional
restaurant, si tting on (indeed) ottomans at l ow tabl es
in a reconstructed oda (guest room) in an ol d house.
Surrounded by shel ves wi th dishes, strings of garli c and
peppers and ol d photos, i t’s best to all ow the wai ters
to suggest a succession of appetisers and mains. The
food is fresh and deli cious (try the lakror në saç oven-
baked pi e), unforgettabl e even after washing i t all down
wi th their home-made raki. Find Oda down the first all ey
west of the market. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00
- 23:00. $ P
Sarajet F-5, Rr. Abdi Topani 7, tel. +355 4 242 12
84/+355 68 602 50 36, reservime@sarajet.com, www.
sarajet.com. The restaurant/bar might have a tough time
living up to glory of this 19th century villa wooden villa that
once housed the legendary Toptani family. One imagines
cigarette smoke-filled rooms sparkling with music, dance
and conversation. Back to the mundane menu, you have the
predictable traditional and contemporary selection of pasta,
fish and meat, some typical Albanian gjel casseroles and a
few “huh?” exceptions, such as fried cornbread and fritters.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. $$-$$$ PBS
Serenata E-3, Rr. Mihal Duri 22, tel. +355 4 273
08 89. With a nicely low-key decor of traditional art and
costumes, Serenata is the home of dishes from the south-
ern Devolli region, centred on the town of Korça, which is
famous for its serenades and spicy, saucy and full fat food.
Try lakror, a flat pie stuffed with green beans, tomatoes,
herbs and spices or tave me qofte, spiced meatballs
baked in a clay bowl. Next to Hotel Cali fornia. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00. $$ PA
Sirius I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frasheri, tel. +355 69 207 26 56.
This place doesn’t end with the rattan/jungle patio. A step
into the bar area sets the mood for romance in the comfy,
cosy crevices of leather couches. Then up the knee-cracking
stairs there is a restaurant serving fish and a handful of
Albanian specialities (pace koke, tasqebab). But if you’re
looking for a bargain, check the blackboard, and don’t miss
one of the best chicken noodle soups you’ll find in town.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. $$
Taverna Argjiro I-3, Rr. Sulejman Delvina, tel. +355
4 223 20 78. Meat lovers will get their fill at this little bar/
taverna where whole lamb is roasted on a spit, veal, beef
and pork are charred, and where paca and plendes (offal)
are prized breakfast dishes. Start the feast with a family-
size order of meze salads ranging from grilled vegetables
to cheese for an ultimate Albanian village experience. Near
the Dinamo stadium. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. $$
Rr. Presidenti George W. Bush 1
Tel. +355 4 226 99 31
Mrizi i Zanave
Traditional Albanian Restaurant
Albanian cuisine is surprisingly good and tasty, a mix of
Mediterranean and Balkan traditions, with plenty of fresh
fish and produce. Standards are often high, with many
members of the Albanian emigrant diaspora returning
with years of experience in the catering industries around
the world. Dining in Tirana is cheap and even in upmarket
restaurants a main course will not cost much.
Upmarket
Apollonia H-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Rogner
Europapark Hotel, tel. +355 4 223 50 35, www.ho-
tel- europapark.com. Apollonia excels in Al banian and
international speciali ti es, wi th for exampl e steak salad,
qofte Korça (meatballs) and even Austrian Käsespäzle
(noodl es wi th cheese). The domed restaurant has a
stylish setting, wi th addi ti onal outdoor seating in the
lush hotel garden. QOpen 06:30 - 15:00, 18:00-23:00.
$$$ PABW
Carlsberg I- 4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Xheko
Imperial Hotel, tel. +355 4 224 68 52. The classy
fi rst-fl oor Carl sberg restaurant i n the Xheko I mperial
Hotel is deservedl y popular wi th the forei gn crowd. Bri ck
arches surround the diners, whil e some of the country’s
best cooks and wai ters ensure a quali ty meal. I t’s hard
to go wrong wi th anything here, but we are especiall y
taken wi th the steaks, the salad bar and the decadent
sel ection of cheese. In summer, head for the open-air
rooftop restaurant, a dazzli ngl y whi te classi cist pl ea-
sure garden compl ete wi th fountai ns, amazi ng vi ews
and the classy White Camellia conservatory. QOpen
12:00 - 22:30. $$$
Metropolitan J-5, Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Hotel, tel.
+355 4 227 47 07. Set underneath a groovy wave roof, the
Sheraton’s Metropolitan restaurant has excellent Albanian
and international fusion dishes on offer at international
prices. The dress code is smart casual. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00. $$$ PAB
Otium H-3, Rr. Brigada e VIII, tel. +355 4 222 35 70,
info@otium-restaurant.com, www.otium-restaurant.
com. One of our favourite places, Otium is a deliciously
unpretentious place for a great meal. Clamber up the steps
to the first floor dining room and be wowed by fast and
knowledgeable staff. The salads feed two, the pasta dish
that we had was excellent and we heard good things about
the lamb confit. Recommended. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. $$$
PAVGS
Vinum E-5, Rr. Qemal Stafa 60, tel. +355 4 223 08
22/+355 68 208 49 00. The colourfully-garbed chef in
this quaint establishment deserves a medal for creativity.
Seriously. Where else do you find quail stuffed with ricotta
and foie gras? Or lamb with almonds covered with pastry
crust? Or a salad of mango, figs and walnuts that tastes
great, or a soup made with carrots and orange? Even the
bread is original - beet, olive and walnuts, oven fresh and
very good. Okay, so it’s expensive, but you’ll go back. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. $$$ PAB
Albanian
Bantia H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 4 224 46 57. Excel-
lent traditional Albanian food served in a large restaurant with
nice photos of old Tirana (with English captions no less). Try the
tavë oven dish served with Korça meatballs or the speciality,
petulla te fshjra, or village pie. If you’re bringing hungry friends,
consider ordering a lakror, a large flat hearty pie stuffed with
onion, leek, creamy cheese, or vegetables. Pilsner Urquell is
on tap. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. $$ PGKXW
Emblema I-2, Rr. Komuna e Parisit, tel. +355 4 224
56 79. With chunky wooden tables, an open fireplace and
walls lined with odds and ends you could be at your granny’s
house, if your granny were Albanian. The usual selection of
pasta and pizza are available but stick to the traditional
Albanian food; try the oven-baked saç meat dish. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. $$ PSW
Era H-3, Rr. Ismail Qemali 33, tel. +355 4 225 78 05,
era_delivery@yahoo.com. Meaning ‘wind’, this popular
and foreigner-friendly spot makes for a good casual lunch or
dinner. The Albanian food is excellent; try the stuffed eggplant
and peppers, and fërgesë (fried minced lamb, feta cheese
and garlic). It’s often crammed, so best book ahead. Near
the corner with Rr. Sami Frashëri. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
$$-$$$ PJVBS
Kalaja e Petrelës (Petrela Castle) Petrelë,
tel. +355 69 208 81 38/+355 68 231 83 33. A
fantastic setting for a very good restaurant. The Petrela
castle restaurant has tables both outside and in the
little tower, all with great views of the surrounding val-
leys and hills. The food is traditional Albanian, served
with a smile. Half an hour’s drive east of Tirana along
the road to Elbasan. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
10:30 - 23:00. $$ PLB
Castle dining
Meat & Fish Mish & Peshk
beef mish lope
chicken pulë
lamb qengji
pork derri
sausage suxhuk
veal mish viçi
schnitzel shnitcell
fish mish peshku
salmon salmon
sea food fruta deti
trout troftë
Fruits and vegetables Frutat dhe perimet
apple mollë
banana banane
cabbag lakër
carrot karrotë
eggplant patëllxhan
mushrooms këpurdha
orange portokall
peppers speca
tomatoes domate
Drinks Pijet
beer birrë
juice lëng
wine verë
water ujë
Menu decoder
P Air conditioning B Outside seating
A Credit cards accepted L Guarded parking
E Occasional live music S Take away
G No smoking W Wi-Fi
T Child friendl y V Home delivery
Restaurant prices
As an indication of cost, in each review we’ve indicated
the average price of a main course, without drinks:
$ up to 500 lekë
$$ between 500-1000 lekë
$$$ over 1000 lekë
Symbol key
€1 = 140 lek, £1 = 166 lek,
US$1 = 103 lek (Feb 5, 2011)
Spring rains in the bllok area
20
RESTAURANTS
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
French
Patisserie Française G/H- 4, Rr. Dëshmorët e
4 Shkurtit 1, tel. +355 4 25 13 36. The café tries
hard to be so very French, down to the décor, oversized
cocoa cups, fil ter coffee, the Salade Nicoise, brioche
and baguette, fabulous fruit tarts and even the French
accent of its charming owner, Marie Therese Marchal.
It’s all very clean, consistently fresh food even when the
daily special is not very special. The service is lovely, i f
not professional, but you can’t have everything. QOpen
07:00 - 22:00. $$ PGS
International
Billionaire G-5, Rr. Jul Varibova 13, tel. +355 4 227
37 16. Situated on one of the few streets in central Tirana
still lined with old-fashioned villas, Billionaire adds to the
atmosphere by providing a restful terrace and garden where
you can smell the flowers as you sip your drink or dine on
mainly Italian food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. $$ PAB
King House I- 4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, tel.
+355 4 225 55 59, kinghouse@king-house.net, www.
king-house.net. There’s nothing outstanding about the
King House; just reliably good Albanian and Italian food
served in pleasant surroundings by friendly and attentive
staff. Home of the informal Friday night Tirana expat meet-
ing. Near the Xheko Imperial hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
$$ PAS
London D-4, Blv. Zogu I, N°51, tel. +355 4 223 88
51/+355 69 207 00 81, rest.london@yahoo.com.
Wandering Brits should feel right at home here in this small
Albanian corner of Blighty, where British and Italian food is
served. A favourite for expats and visitors alike. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. $$ PAGS
Lulishte 1 Maji F-5/6, Rr. Presidenti George W. Bush,
tel. +355 4 223 0151/+355 67 203 12 03, info@
lulishte1maji.com, www.lulishte1maji.com. A large,
tree-shaded garden beside the river, shared by four restau-
rants, fountains and a playground. There’s pasta and pizza
at low prices and a large red building housing the culinary
equivalent of the UN, with kebabs, Mexican and Chinese food.
QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. $$ PAVEBS
Millennium F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, Pallati i Pionierit,
tel. +355 4 226 93 16. Decent international dining in a
modern space above the cinema, with a glass pavilion sur-
rounded by greenery, garden fragrances twittering birds in
summer. Q $-$$ PB
Pastarella H-5, Rr. Mustafa Matohiti 18, tel. +355
4 226 55 98. What a pleasant spot to meet friends and
enjoy a sufllaqe or Spanish paella, i f not just a cup of
coffee or a glass of cognac, in this airy beige and white
Mediterranean bar café in a converted villa. Pastas, sal-
ads, a few Greek dishes, fish and meats all fall into the
normal realm of expectation, but nothing more. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. $$
Piazza E-4, Sheshi Harry Truman, tel. +355 4 223 07
06/+355 69 403 03 00, piazzatirana@yahoo.com.
Piazza was Tirana’s first truly elegant restaurant, and is still
a great spot to kill time and watch people. The terrace is
screened from the traffic by flower beds, palm trees and a
fountain and is a better choice than the slightly tacky indoor
area. Piazza serves sandwiches, pizza and other snacks.
QOpen 12:00 - 17:00, 19:00-23:00. $$ PABS
A great escape from Tirana...
Vila Toscana has everything you need for a successful business
meeting or conference, a party, a weekend away, or even as a quiet
place to stay while visiting Albania's capital city.
Te hotel rooms, events spaces, bar and restaurant in the complex
will not disappoint!
Vila Toscana
Rruga e Vjeter Tiranë-Durrës km 12
(500m from the Peza monument)
Tel. 048 301 230/1, fax 048 301 232
vila.toscana@yahoo.co.uk.
Vila 31 E-2, Rr. Gjon Muzaka 31, tel. +355 4 227 81
41/+355 69 20 83 317. A charming rural-style restaurant
in the big city. This converted house has rustic seating inside,
and in summer tables below the vines in the shady courtyard.
The food is honest peasant fare such as grilled meat and
ribs of lamb, with the tave Vila 31 (an oven-baked pot of
cheese, vegetables and egg for 350 lek) as the standout
choice. From Rruga Kavajës walk down Rruga Naim Frashëri
and look for the sign down the the fourth alley on your right.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. $$ PABS
Viva H-4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, tel. +355 4 224 63 76, lo-
kaliviva@live.com. Here’s a simple, central, affordable home
cooking restaurant that pleases all with good food, friendly
service and nargila pipes. For something local, order the tave
dheu, an oven dish with meat and cheese, or try the Elbasan
version, tava kosi that’s with yoghurt. Or the brain cutlets. It’s all
good. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 24 hours. $ PVSW
Asian
Da Shang Hai I-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, 25/1,
tel. +355 4 227 19 87. Good Chinese food served in wonder-
fully chintzy surroundings, just the way the Chinese like it. The
English-language menu, kindly translated by the US embassy
staff, lists a good value set menu deal as well as several fish
dishes. Find Da Shang Hai signposted down an small alley near
the Sheko Imperial hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. $$
Far East H-5, Rr. Asim Zeneli 6, tel. +355 4 227 19 38.
Part of a Greek restaurant chain, this pan-Asian restaurant
has elements of many Oriental cultures reflected in both the
design and the menu. You’re greeted on the white terrace
by a Japanese stone lantern overlooking a gurgling stream,
while inside it’s all Chinese woodwork, moon gates and fish
tanks. The menu has everything from sushi (from 600 lek) to
Indonesian satay beef and a Korean-style sizzler barbecue.
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. $$-$$$ PAVBS
Mimi I-5, Rr. Dervish Hima, tel. +355 4 226 99 47. An
unusually named Chinese restaurant near the Qemal Stafa sta-
dium. There’s friendly service and a full range of chicken, pork,
noodle and beef standards. The seafood specialities include
calamari and shrimps. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. $ PVBS
Shang Hai F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 4 225 70
12/+355 69 218 70 81. Good and affordable Chinese
food is offered at Tirana’s second Shang Hai restaurant,
found beyond a set of carved wooden pillars in a courtyard
opposite the Millennium 2 cinema. The menu has well over
100 options (including a set of Albanian choices for insecure
locals), all available in the dining hall, on the terrace or for
take-away. The set menus with 5-8 dishes are good value.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. $ PVBS
Let go of those old-fashioned certainties, and visit a
restaurant that doesn’t do menus.
Amor F-1, Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha, tel. +355 4 224
15 73/+355 69 407 81 06. No menu here, just what
the chef/owner decides to make that day, all cooked
fresh. Great home made pasta, excellent meat, superb
desserts and all at reasonable prices. Don’t miss the
chocolate mousse. It’s only a little place so booking is
advisable for dinner. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun.
$$$ PASW
No menu
22
RESTAURANTS
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
23
RESTAURANTS
Spring/Summer 2011 tirana.inyourpocket.com
Royal G/H-4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Twin Towers,
tel. +355 4 228 03 28, restaurantroyal@hotmail.com.
Located on the fourth floor of the Twin Towers, this restaurant
combines fine dining with a nice view of the main boulevard
and the city skyline. Come on a warm night and dine al
fresco in the glow of the pyramid. A good selection of wines
is available to accompany a large variety of mains. QOpen
08:00 - 22:30. $$ PAES
Serendipity I-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, 26/1, tel.
+355 4 225 93 77/+355 69 404 45 57. The Hard Rock
Cafe décor in this popular café is as much a mish-mash as
its unfocused menu. You’ve got Marilyn, Jackie, the Beatles,
odd flags, rock album covers - the works - plastered on the
walls, and you’ve got a menu with a dizzying number of cui-
sines that simply don’t fuse. Mexican, Italian, Mediterranean,
Albanian. Is the food good? Sometimes. Does it matter? Not
much. People flock to this placed for the chimichanga and
heart-shaped pizza. Ditch the spinach soup. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00. $$ PABS
Shakesbeer H-4, Rr. Brigada VIII, tel. +355 4 224
44 13/+355 69 207 64 54. Despite the corny name,
Shakesbeer is well worth a visit for its vibrant atmosphere,
spacious rooms, the garden and its multinational menu.
The cook, a returnee from London, conjurs up exotic dishes
from Mexico, Thailand, Spain (paella), Germany (bratwurst)
and even Jamaica. There’s local grilled fish and meat too
for those who want to eat closer to home. QOpen 08:00 -
03:00. $-$$ PB
ABA Twentyfirst H-5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, tel.
+355 4 450 17 17, twentyfirst@ababusinesscenter.
al. If nothing else gets to you entering this cool leather
and glass restaurant, the wrap-around view of Tirana
from the top of the city’s tallest building alone will be
worth the steep price of drinks or the tempting 6,000
lekë tasting menu designed by chef Ignazio Campanale,
which includes foie gras and red mullet. Note that tak-
ing photos of the view is not allowed up here. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. $$$
Ballkoni Dajtit Mount Dajti, upper cable car
station, tel. +355 67 401 10 21, marketing@
dajtiekspres.com, www.ballkonidajtit.com. A lovely
Alpine-style wooden restaurant with excellent views
over Tirana. There are several dining rooms, though it’s
worth asking for a table in the enclosed balcony room
for the views. The restaurant serves Albanian and Ital-
ian meals such as fergesë me speca (a dish with eggs
and cheese), oven dishes, and in season also wild boar
and rabbit. Note that the cable car does not operate on
Mondays. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. $$
Sky Club G/H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit N°5,
tel. +355 4 222 16 66, ext 143, skyclub@albania-
online.net. The spectacular view of Tirana adds sparkle
to this romantic room on top of the 17-storey Sky Tower
with its red floral chairs, elegantly set tables, and a duo
playing songs that remind you of Vienna in the 1940s.
Among the surprises in the all too familiar menu are wild
fish, baked duck, and home-made pasta. Foreigners will
find a few traditional Albanian dishes to try. Count on
superb service from the waiters. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
$$ PAEBS
Food with a view
Waiter! Kamarier!
A table for two Një tavvolin për dy
Non-smoking / smoking Ndalohet duhani
/ Lejohet duhani
The menu please Menune ju lutem
I’d like to order Do doja ta bëja porosin
Do you have vegetarian food? Kni ushqim vegjetarian
Surprise me! Më befaso
The bill, please Faturën ju lutem
Restaurant talk
Rr. e Elbasanit, Tiranë, Phone: +355 4 24 525 42
XI BRAKU RESTAURANT
Steakhouse G- 4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Rinia
Park, Taiwan, tel. +355 68 230 88 08. This sleek first-
floor steak restaurant is decked out with light wood and
has a pleasant terrace overlooking the park. The menu
has items such as the Mosaic mixed grill and sirloin Angus
steak, but also has a range of other non-steak meals.
There’s knowledgeable service too. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
$$ PABW
Viking H-5, Rr. Asim Zeneli 7, tel. +355 4 227 12
98/+355 68 202 38 25. A scruffy but friendly local restau-
rant/bar that’s best visited for its pleasant covered terrace.
You’ll find the usual international suspects on the menu, with
great homemade pasta and very little influence of pillaging
Scandinavians. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. $$ PABS
Vila Ambasador Chocolat H-5, Rr. Asim Zeneli 2,
ina_chocolat@yahoo.com. The former East German
embassy is a much happier place now that it’s home to
excellent fish and meat dishes (try the three-course menu),
and is deservedly well known for the great desserts. Staff
is knowledgeable, and the cluster of orange rooms have an
intimate atmosphere. Great for a special evening out. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. $$ PALEB
Vila Amsterdam H-5, Rr. Asim Zeneli 9, tel. +355 4
226 74 39. Logically located right opposite the Netherlands
embassy building, this pleasant restaurant has great semi-
covered terrace seating where you can plot the downfall of
the Dutch government. Or perhaps just tuck into Albanian
food and pizzas. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. $$ PVBS
Vila Metropolitan H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit,
tel. +355 68 33 02 07. Right beside the dictator’s old villa,
this nicely converted villa is the largest city-centre venue
with a café on the ground floor and the terrace around, and
a stylish restaurant upstairs. There’s traditional and modern
art on the walls, and a varied menu; for vegetarian viagra try
the ‘aphrodisiac salad’. Who’ll convince the UN and NGOs
hogging the other lovely villas on this street to make way for
progress? QOpen 19:00 - 24:00. $$
Xibraku Rr. e Elbasanit, tel. +355 4 245 25 42/+355
69 208 50 55, xibrakucenter@yahoo.com, xibraku-
center.tripod.com. You might need a tour guide to navigate
this meandering, multi-level collection of bars, restaurants
and conference hall in the plush hinterland of Tirana’s famous
road to Elbasan. But if you don’t mind lots of stairs, there
is something for everyone’s taste, from country kitchen to
its ultramodern bar. Opposite the Presidential Residence.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. $$ PHABSW
ABA TWENTYFIRST
Aba Business Center
Rruga Papa Gjon Pali II
Tel. +355 44501717
Mob. +355 69 4037054
€1 = 140 lek, £1 = 166 lek,
US$1 = 103 lek (Feb 5, 2011)
24
RESTAURANTS
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
Delice offers a satisfying three-course lunch Saturdays and
Sundays. If you want to taste and not gorge on pasta, try
the appetizer-size ravioli or tagliatelle. Otherwise the main
dishes (including goat) should satisfy a lumberjack. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. $$
Fiore I-5, Rr. Dervish Hima 4, tel. +355 4 223 63
94. The focal point of this old world Italian restaurant is
the open kitchen pizza oven, but customers head for the
fish display case where the catch includes jumbo shrimp,
levrek and barbun, among others, at expected prices.
Otherwise you’ll find the usual pizza, pasta-risotto with
a surprise or two in the meat line-up (roasted rabbit), all
fairly priced, as are the Albanian and Italian wines. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. $$
Green House G-5, Rr. Jul Varibova 6, tel. +355 4
222 26 32, www.greenhouse.al. A 1930s villa wi th
a quiet courtyard hidden behind high hedges seems the
perfect place to have Mediterranean meals, accompanied
by a good selection of wines. The outside seating area
has a tropical feel to i t, whil e inside i t’s all minimalist
chic wi th delicate spotlighting. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.
$$ PALBW
La Cantinella H- 4, Rr. Brigada VIII, tel. +355 69
207 00 82. Set back from the street, the courtyard of
this elegant Italian grill house is a pleasant and quiet place
to try a grilled meat or Albanian speciality. Inside, there
are tables wi th red-cushioned seats, a pot stove, and
wines displayed along the walls. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
$$ PAEBS
La Tavernetta H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, tel.
+355 4 225 48 34. Lurking in a cellar below a modern
high-rise lies this rustic Albanian tavern with wooden beams,
medallions, large spoons and lutes. The reasonable Italian
food here is complemented by an excellent salad bar. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. $$ P
Napoli D-2, Rr. Durrësit 79, tel. +355 4 223 15 67,
www.restaurantnapoli.com. One of the first pri vate
restaurants to open i n 1991 and strategi call y placed
near the cl utch of embassi es al ong Rr. Skenderbeg,
Napoli is a good spot for dipl omats and other passers-
by. I ts scrumptious pizzas and seafood are conj ured up
by a chef who trained in I tal y. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
$-$$ PAB
Pirro Mani Rr. Ali Demi 131, tel. +355 4 234 75
67/+355 69 202 98 63. Famed locally for the Italian food
on offer, Pirro Mani is named after the celebrity owner and
has no arsonist links whatsoever. There’s a large seating
area in the garden, while the rustic interior is also capable
of holding a wedding party or two. On weekends, call in
advance to check it’s not booked full. Just east of the city
centre. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. $$ P
Italian
ABA Fifth H-5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, tel. +355 4 450 17
20, fifth@ababusinesscenter.al. This bar and restaurant
is Twentyfirst’s little sister, on the fifth floor above the Coin
Gallery. Its grand patio gives patrons a bird’s eye view of
the Qemal Stafa football stadium as well as a spectacular
three-corner panorama of Tirana. Here you’ll want to stay
for the smoothies or the bargain breakfast or bistro lunch,
or dinner which includes wok dishes. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00.
$$-$$$ PALEGXW
Al Brigantino H-5, Rr. Themistokli Germenji 3/1, tel.
+355 69 224 18 34. A neat Italian restaurant with a seafar-
ing theme - paintings, nautical maps on the ceiling and a huge
model ship between the tables. The food is fresh and good.
Opposite the Romanian embassy. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
$$-$$$ PALGW
Casa di Pasta G- 4, Blv. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit,
Taiwan complex, tel. +355 4 225 11 75/+355 4 225
11 78, www.kompleksitaiwan.com. A l arge I talian
eatery occupying hal f of the Taiwan complex, and looking
like any neo-rusti c restaurant. The open ki tchen of fers
full views of cooks whacking lamb chops into submission,
spinning pizza dough or preparing the “capri cious fish
salad”, and al though their ef forts resul t in fine dishes,
the servi ce can be numbingl y sl ow. The huge frui t salad
is recommended on hot days. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
$$ PABSW
Delice H-3, Rr. Ismail Qemali 2, tel. +355 4 226 49
56/+355 68 207 75 73. Alas, food is served only at
lunchtime, but the prices are almost half those of its pricey
neighbour, Era, and beats it by a mile in its slick presentation.
ABA Fifth
Aba Business Center, Mbi Coin
Rruga Papa Gjon Pali II
Tel: +355 4 450 17 20
Albanian Federation of Cooks (Federata e
Kuzhinierëve Shqiptarë) Tirana, tel. +355 67 262
35 56/+355 69 203 39 22, federata.kuzhinierve.
shqiperi@gmail.com. Two famous local chefs, Dorjan
Belli and Ilir Ndreko started this network of over 40
professional chefs to work on improving local and in-
ternational cuisine in Albania, and to organise culinary
charity events. Q V
Cooks United
26
RESTAURANTS
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
27
RESTAURANTS
Spring/Summer 2011 tirana.inyourpocket.com
Venecia I-5, Sheshi Italia, tel. +355 4 223 32 33.
Excellent pizza, but also a great place for coffee and cakes.
If weather allows, sit outside on the nice terrace with interest-
ing views of the ragged arse of the Qemal Stafa stadium.
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. $ PAVBS
Seafood
Magic Blue H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 4 227 35
55, magic.blue.restorant@gmail.com. A modern seafood
restaurant in the blloku fitted out rustic-style. The catch of the
day can be inspected fresh on a bed of ice beside the entrance
and you can simply choose the fish of your liking, or you could
order one of the many seafood options on the menu, which in-
cludes octopus, calamari, shrimps, salmon and more. There’s
live piano music every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday
evening. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. $-$$$ PALVBSW
Rozafa E-5, Rr. Luigj Gurakuqi 89, tel. +355 4 222 27
86/+355 4 223 91 14, www.rozafa.com.al. With fish and
other seafood coming fresh from their own fish market across
the street, you can choose between superb cheap seafood
or superb expensive seafood at the two Rozafa restaurants,
both located in one building. Treat yourself at least once to
the upmarket version (down the alley and through the wooden
door on the left); try the seafood buffet, piled high with more
tentacles and suckers that you can count. QOpen 12:00 -
24:00. $$-$$$ PABS
Spaghetti House & Fish D-2, Rr. Durresit 240, tel.
+355 4 224 79 23/+355 69 208 80 30. Fish and pasta?
Actually, you get the best of both at this somewhat run-down
joint now considered numero uno among fish lovers. Most
fish is sold by the kilo at prices you gladly pay while gagging.
It’s that good. You choose the variety grade A or B fish from
Albanian waters - koc, levrek, merluc, barbun, kallamare,
even lobster, and it’s cooked as you like it, with or without
the pasta. There is only beer and wine to wash it all down,
but who cares? QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. $$-$$$
Rr. Qemal Stafa 60
Tel. +355 4 223 08 22
Mob. +355 68 26 84 900
Tirana's top
address for
delicious,
imaginative
cuisine.
Enjoy exquisite
food and wine
in stylish
surroundings.
Vila 12 G/H-5, Rr. Mustafa Matohiti 12, tel. +355 4
225 06 33. A gourmet fish restaurant that has some very
fishy combinations indeed. The chef likes to experiment;
try the raw fish with radish, grapes and strawberries, or the
potato-cake with cod and mozzarella. Thankfully there’s also
traditional grilled fish and lobster. The hot choc fondant cake
is a worthy dessert. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. $$ PAB
Snacks & Fast food
Concentrations of grease can be found around the intersec-
tion of Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit and Rr. Abdyl Frashëri. See
also the café reviews for healthier snacks.
Big Bite I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri 16, tel. +355 4 222
00 00. Love it or hate it, no other restaurant gets as many
reader comments (both good and bad) on the Tirana In
Your Pocket website. The second most popular fast-food
chain in town has burgers, chips and pizza, non-stop. Q
Open 24hrs. $ VS
Il Pomodoro Food Court H-5, Sheshi Italia, Sheraton
Plaza Mall. A food court inside the mall attached to the
Sheraton hotel, with three cuisines on offer: Mexican, Italian
and Asian. Popular for office lunches and for a quick dinner.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. $-$$
Kolonat I-5, Sheshi Italia, tel. +355 4 225 51 27. Albania’s
first US-style fastfood chain comes complete with plagiarised
McD logo and packaging. Those bored with Ronald’s concoc-
tions may like the huge four-person superpizzas, Skanderburg-
ers (named after the national hero) and ‘Big Supreme’ menus
on the menu here. The main outlet is a large tent wedged behind
the colonade at the southern end of the boulevard. Also on (G-6)
Blv. Bajram Curri. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. $
Mr. Chicken I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, tel. +355 4 225
77 08. It’s hot and it’s busy, but the delicious freshly cooked
rotisserie chicken is worth waiting for. You can also get decent
chips and kebabs here. Sit in the cheap and cheerful dining
section or take it away to smear grease all over your face
elsewhere. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. $ BS
Turkish
Istanbul H- 4, Rr. Brigada VIII, tel. +355 4 227 29
32. A modest-looking Turkish restaurant that neverthe-
less serves up some fantastic food. Besides kebabs and
pita dishes, do try the tasty Künefe-kadayif (pastry with
cheese) dessert.
Sofra Turke F-2, Rr. Kavajës 170, tel. +355 4 222 68
18. Although Albanian food is heavily influenced by the Turks,
this restaurant serving original kuzhina turke is worth the
short walk west from the centre. Try the Turkish lahmaxhun
pizza, one of the many kebab dishes, or sink your teeth into
sweet sticky baklava pastries. Prices are very reasonable
for the feast you’ll get, and the place is nicely decorated with
kilim carpets, instruments, nargil pipes and other nicknacks.
It’s as if the Ottomans never left. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
$-$$ PAVS
The staff at Tirana In Your Pocket have had fun writing
what we thing about the city's restaurants, bars, clubs
and sights – but now it's time for the readers to make
themselves heard. What is your favourite place in Tirana
for local food, for a snack, for drinks, or for a conference?
In the next edition we'll have a questionnaire and an
online poll. Write to us at tirana@inyourpocket.com to let
us know your favourites so we can draw up the shortlist
for voting. The categories are...
Best Albanian restaurant
Best Italian restaurant
Best international restaurant
Best fast food restaurant
Best burek shop
Best pizza restaurant
Best café/bar
Best club
Best cultural institution
Best Tirana sight
Best daytrip destination
Best Albanian beach
Best shopping centre
Best business hotel
Best leisure hotel
Best hotel outside Tirana
Best conference venue
The Best of Tirana
Lining Tirana’s Grand Park are several large restau-
rants where you can relax in the cool fresh air and say
hello to a bear.
Juvenilja Castelo J-6, Rr. Gjeneral Niko Pushkini,
tel. +355 4 226 66 66. These fine purveyors of Italian
and Albanian specialities, a multi-talented salad bar and
gigantic pizza inhabit a customised castle on the edge
of the park. Excellent dining in large rooms, all-encom-
passing balconies or tiered-terraces overlooking the
greenery. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. $$ PALBSW
Queen Park Tirana-Elbasan road, km 5, tel. +355
68 202 10 23. The grand building set on the edge of
the park offers two floors with a big terrace for dining,
and is popular with the locals for festive events. It may
not be fit for a queen, but it’s certainly not bad. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. $$ PTALB
Sofra e Ariut (Bear’s Lair) Rr. Elbasanit, tel.
+355 4 237 29 04, info@sofraeariut.com, www.so-
fraeariut.com. Resembling a Swiss chalet, the elegant
interiors are great for long Albanian lunches or dinners.
The cages containing Liza the bear, some monkeys,
eagles and chickens around the lush terrace may cause
you to raise your eyebrows, but they’re housed in better
conditions than animals in the local zoo. Near the Mar-
tyrs’ Cemetery. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. $$ ALEB
Park restaurants
As an indication of cost, in each review we’ve indicated
the average price of a main course, without drinks:
$ up to 500 lekë
$$ between 500-1000 lekë
$$$ over 1000 lekë
Restaurant prices
Vila Logoreci I/J-3, Rr. Gjon Pali II, tel. +355 4 224 71
90, vilalogoreci@yahoo.it. A superb-looking restaurant in an
old villa, with cosy indoor rooms and a terrace with a pond. The
Italian food here is a cut above the rest and the daily special is
certainly worth trying. It’s best to come early or avoid the Vila on
very busy nights. QOpen 07:30 - 23:30. $$ PAEBSW
Japanese
Yamato I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, QTU City mall, tel. +355
4 225 82 38, yamato@manetci.com.al. Albania’s first
Japanese restaurant is so well-hidden, unmarked above the
Euromax supermarket in the QTU City mall, that several locals
have written to us to say it does not exist. But it does, and
serves pretty decent sushi, sashimi, tempura and teriyaki
dishes made in the open kitchen - though the exact menu
depends on which fish were netted that morning. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. $$$ PAVS
Pizza
Bogova G-3, Rr. Myslym Shyri 47, tel. +355 4 223 52
00. Named after a beautiful river in southern Albania, this
place is well known by the locals. Tasty pizzas served in fresh
surroundings. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. $ PB
La Voglia F-4, Rr. Reshit Çollaku 36, tel. +355 4 225 88
99. La Voglia draws a chic young Albanian crowd to the restaurant
occupying a square that is the closest thing that Tirana has to an
Italian piazza. DJs spin chill tunes outside in summer. Just across
the square, the restaurant has a another outlet, imaginatively
named La Voglia 2. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. $ PBSW
Loro Borici I-5, Sheshi Italia, tel. +355 4 224 06 54.
Named for one of Albania`s best-known soccer players, this
quiet family-run pizzeria offers a wide selection of delicious
pizzas, fresh salads, and a full bar. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. $
28
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
29
Spring/Summer 2011 tirana.inyourpocket.com
ALBANIAN CUISINE TODAY CAFÉS
All cafes and bars offer espresso (kafe ekspres) or
Turkish coffee (kafe turke). More upscale places will
also serve American-style coffee (kafe filter). The only
Starbucks-type place in town is Gregory’s.
Artist Lounge H-5, Rr. Ismail Qemali 12, justfruits@
hotmail.com. A unique, bright and spacious café serving
fresh fruit juices and smoothies, coffee, sweet and hearty
crepes, sandwiches, pasta, salads and baguettes. Recom-
mended for a healthy snack or lunch, though service is
often tediously slow. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:30
- 24:00. $ PGB
Bardhë e Zi H-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4 224 70
89. The biggest attraction in ‘Black and White’ is the huge
black-and-white photograph collection of Albanian artist Artur
Gorishti. Modem and comfortable, this café serves a damn
good cappuccino. Near the corner with Rr. Ismail Qemali. Q
Open 24 hours. PBW
Coffee Store I-5, Sheshi Italia. A boldly-named, modern
coffee house overlooking the Kolonat fast food tent beside
the stadium. There’s good coffee, and tasty paninis if you’re
up for a snack. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
Delikatesë H-5, Rr. Ismail Qemali 12, tel. +355 4
224 54 24, www.pasticeridelikatese.com. Delicious
home-made cakes and sweet chocolatey things served in a
restaurant that also has various Italian dishes on the menu.
Perfect for an indulgent lunch. QOpen 07:00 - 23:30, Sun
08:30 - 23:30. PB
Gregory’s Coffee H- 4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit,
Twin Towers, tel. +355 4 228 04 81, info@gregorys.
gr, www.gregorys.gr. A modern coffee and sandwich bar
on the ground floor of the Twin Towers. The fresh panini fill-
ings include omelet, chicken and Albanian-style meatballs
and cheese, and there’s pie too. Try the fantastic hot or cold
chocolate drinks. Also at the airport. QOpen 06:00 - 17:00,
Sat 06:00 - 15:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. $ PV
Jumeirah F-5, Rr. Presidenti George W. Bush, tel.
+355 68 251 56 99. Named after a Dubai district and
built with Emiratic opulence in mind, Jumeirah is a three-
floor complex with plenty of mirrors, fake palm trees and a
bar on the top floor. Serving drinks as well as cakes from
the ground-floor patisserie, the bar has a nice rooftop
terrace. The piano keys get tickled in the evening. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. E
Mojo H-5/6, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji. Big blurry photos
and big lamps set the scene for Mojo’s hip crowd. A bright
café serving drinks and snacks such as sandwiches and
toast, Mojo is officially a no-smoking café even though ev-
eryone happily ignores that. From 17:00-20:00 on weekdays,
free snacks come with the drinks. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00.
PGW
Pastiçeri International I- 4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri,
tel. +355 4 225 67 50, pasticeri.internacional@
yahoo.com. The onl y thi ng i nternati onal about thi s
place mi ght be your presence - but i t’s still one of the
better places to go to get your sugar-and-cof fee fi x. Wol f
down tarts and various other pastri es - i f you can find a
seat, that is. The chil dren will l ove the small playground
in the adjacent park. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Also on Rr.
Durrësi t, PBS
Pasticeri Twin Towers G/H- 4, Blv. Dëshmorët e
Kombit, tel. +355 4 228 02 89. A good location in the
Twin Towers looking out over the Pyramid, this place is
bright, modern and airy. Ice cream and cakes complement
the rather overpriced coffee, and you can while away the
time enjoying the erratic spellings of the Scotch whisky on
the menu. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PB
Pirro H-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Rogner Hotel Euro-
papark, tel. +355 4 223 50 35, www.hotel-europapark.
com. The Rogner’s relaxed lobby café/bar is something of a
meeting place for diplomats, NATO military, businesspeople,
and other hobnobbing foreigners. Apart from newspapers
and fast wifi, Pirro has a great shaded terrace overlooking
the tropical garden. On Thursdays there’s live Jazz music from
21:00. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. PEGBW
Quo Vadis H-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 21, tel. +355 4 226
65 90, qvo-vadis@quovadis.com, www.quovadis.com.
A popular café at the bllok’s main crossroads. The deep red
walls provide the perfect backdrop for the hip, young and
rich to do their thang. We recommend ordering a coffee, a
pint of hair gel and a clipped goatee. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00.
PBW
Relax H-5, Rr. Mustafa Matohiti, tel. +355 68 213 86
41. Big windows and a bright interior with lots of light wood
ensure that Relax lives up to its name. It’s a great place to
linger over a cup of coffee and read the paper. If you forgot
to bring your own, the café kindly provides a selection for
you. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PB
Sky Club Café G/H- 4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit
N°5, tel. +355 4 222 16 66. The floor of the glass box
on top of Albania’s highest building revolves slowly to give
a 360-degree panorama of the city, electricity permitting.
That’s also the main reason to come - the coffee and
cakes on offer are pricey and no better than those at
ground level. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Groups: admission
250 lek/person. P
Stephen Center Café E-5/6, Rr. Hoxha Tahsim 1,
tel. +355 4 223 47 48, www.stephencenter.com. Set
up by evangelical missionaries who certainly know how to
run a good café, this is one of Tirana’s best, a cosmopolitan
meeting place for locals and foreigners alike. There’s a pleas-
ant terrace and a cosy smoke-free interior with a poster of
New York’s twin towers. There’s free wifi, fresh juice, 90 lek
bottomless coffee, salads, pastas, sandwiches, pancakes,
burgers, pizza, Mexican dishes, English breakfast and on
Saturdays waffles. Amen! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. (600-750 lek). PTAGBW
Epër7shme G-5, Rr. Jul Variboba 2, tel. +355 4
227 12 88. A lovely book café, unfortunately with very
few English-language titles in the shop section. Find
the friendly owners and their friends hanging out at the
café section at the back, specialising in tea. The name
means ‘suitable’ - and it’s more than that. QOpen 08:00
- 22:30. PBW
Friend’s Book House G-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri,
tel. +355 4 226 67 77, friendbookhouse@yahoo.
com. For literary insomniacs: a non-stop bookshop,
café and reading room that also has a quiet study room
in the basement. There are not many English-language
titles on offer but you can always bring your own book
or newspaper along. Near the main police station, just
north of the river. Q Open 24hrs. PBW
Book cafés
There is no shortage of restaurants serving Albanian
specialities throughout Tirana’s bustling restaurant
community. Some favourites are Carlsberg, Era, Gurra e
Perrise, Juvenilja, Panorama, Taverna Argjiro and Xibraku.
Where to eat Albanian
All that fat, all that sugar and all that drippy oil, once the
stamp of 500 years of Ottoman gastronomic excess, if not
decadence, had been purged from the cuisine along with other
purges of Albania’s past, when the communist regime took
over in 1945. And it lasted until the regime fell in 1991. Happily,
the spare, semi-starved low calorie, low fat, low cholesterol,
no-taste cuisine of that drab era is gone, and now that Albania
is attempting to market-economize itself into shape, “food”
is back. But nowhere near its former culinary opulence, if you
want to characterize a cuisine formerly rich in fat, sugar and
flours as such. Today there is hardly a housewife left in the
country who knows how to make a decent byrek, baklava
or revani dripping with butter. Forget the richness of syrups
oozing like golden lava from the crisp layers of baked filo
pastries, shanks glistening with spongy layers of crispy fat,
mounds of rice overflowing with fruits and nuts like meteors
shot from the sun. All that’s gone, it’s true, but there is a
culinary comeback of sorts in restaurants, if not yet in homes.
The wonderful thing about returning to Albania last year after
a ten-year absence when only green onions were sold in
markets, was to find a thriving, bustling restaurant scene with
people actually sitting in cafés munching on pizza or sticking
their forks into mounds of spaghetti, heaps of French fries and
pick on fish from the oceans and lakes of Albania’s rich marine
life. Today, the streets are alive with the smell of food wafting
in the air. Tiny storefronts are places to find byrek made into
flaky triangle puffs and filled with cheese, spinach and meat.
They’re hot from the oven when early morning customers arrive
to pick them up by the bagful. It was a pleasure to see a whole
lamb on a spit sizzling over flames on the patio of Taverna
Argjiro, a restaurant right beside the street. And then there
are the still mushrooming pizza and pasta places and Greek
fast food stands almost on every street corner.
Mass immigration to Italy and Greece in the early 1990s,
set off by 50 years of isolation, inspired today’s cuisine
dominated by pizza and pasta and Greek gjiro sandwiches,
moussaka and pasticio found in restaurants everywhere
you look. Who has the best product is a matter of personal
taste, but my taste for Italian pasta leads me to the cheerful,
well-managed Casa di Pasta at Taiwan, the huge complex
of bars and restaurants in the heart of the city.
Then there are the Albanian specialities that everyone
likes plugged into the pizza pasta menus as if they were in
harmony. Era, one of the best eateries in Tirana, probably
boasts the best and brightest of regional Albanian dishes
representi ng coastal, northern and southern regi onal
speciali ties. Who woul d think of ordering melci (cal f’s
lung), and other offal neither known nor preferred by most
foreigners? But there they are along with ferges, the popular
Tirana speciality with cheese, eggs and bits of meat or liver
and 27 other Albanian specialities including stews originating
in Elbasan, meatballs from Korca and, cornmeal spinach
mush from Gjirokastra, as well as Mediterranean specialities
from Crete and other Greek regions.
Because a large number of produce that ordinarily might be
grown in Albania’s temperate plains are imported, Albania,
a traditionally agricultural country may be one of the last
countries in Europe to have real seasonality in food, causing
prices to be high as well. Do such economic disparities and
high cost affect the cuisine? One can point to the lack of
variety and the tendency to be repetitive in menu choices
as concrete evidence of its effect, even while grocery chains
such as Conad and Euromax introduced such items as
avocado and mango and strawberries to the marketplace,
without much effect to the restaurateurs who understandably
must watch their profit margin and clientèle who seem
satisfied with the familiar items.
Still there’s a bright future for Albanian cuisine now that visas
for travel abroad are available to the citizenry¸ promising
new ideas, new visions and new products to filter into the
society and its cuisine. And who knows – perhaps all that
butter and cream will find their way back into the once opulent
Albanian cuisine.
By Rose Dosti
Delicious lakror pie
Street food: sheep head
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31
NIGHTLIFE
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Tirana’s indie-rock youth packed in tighter than the socks in
Lenny Kravitz’s flared rock star trousers. QOpen 08:00 -
23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. Beer 500 lek. P
Caramel Lounge H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit,
Twin Towers. A lounge bar set on the second floor of the
Twin Towers, with cracking cocktails, loungy music and views
over to the Pyramid. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00. W
Charl’s Bistro H-4, Rr. Pjeter Bogdani 36, tel. +355 69
202 29 01, info@charlsbistro.com, www.charlsbistro.
com. An eclectic, fashionable thirtyish crowd populates this
fantastic lounge bar with 1960s-80s inspired music in the
bllok area. The somewhat oddly spelt bar regularly puts on
live music acts from across the region and various other
events from Thursday to Saturday, but the cocktail bar in the
lush small garden spits out great drinks all week. Q Open
24 hours. PEBW
Code I- 4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri. Attracting a somewhat
older crowd than usual for the bllok, The Code is a spacious
arched bar with a library corner, sofas and Tuborg on tap.
Regular parties include the Jazz & Gold Hits evenings, with
live bands. Just beside the Vesa Centre complex.
Converse G/H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha. The students, artists
and intellectuals that visit this tiny basement ‘social club’ to
sip coffee and play chess seem the exact opposites of the
loud hairy men slamming down shots at Steelwings next door.
A good place to pick up conversation with young Tiranians,
recite poetry or pin your own home-made artwork on the
walls. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. Beer 100 lek. P
Davidoff Club G/H-4, Blv. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit,
tel. +355 69 204 27 00. To the young students at the
Davidoff, it’s all about seeing or being seen. The large bar on
the first floor of the building has big windows for watching the
crowded streets and terraces below. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
Flares H-4, Rr. Brigada VIII, tel. +355 69 209 99 10,
nardimuho@yahoo.com. Squeeze yourself into this bar at
the weekend and be prepared for a singalong or even a star
turn. When the karaoke is turned off, just relax and enjoy the
modern Albanian art on display. Owners Denis and Nardi work
hard to make this a welcoming spot and Flares is justifiably
popular with locals and expats. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. Beer 300 lek. PBW
Iguana II H-4, Rr. Brigada e VIII, tel. +355 69 207 20
71. Pictures of lizards appropriately adorn the walls of this
youthful first-floor bar, and the cornershop location means
you have views over late night pedestrians on two streets.
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
Infinity J-5, Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Hotel, tel. +355 4
227 47 07. The Sheraton’s elegant piano bar and lounge is a
peaceful place for a beer, or something stronger, sometimes
accompanied by live music. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PE
Living Room F-5, Rr. Presidenti George W. Bush 16,
tel. +355 4 226 51 30/+355 67 203 32 25. Literally a
cool bar, as after a hot summer’s day the large rooftop lounge
area catches the evening breeze. That’s when the pretty
people dress up and come out in force to cram themselves
on the multilevel decks overlooking the city. In winter, retreat
to the first floor of the building with its living room style bar.
The restaurant (summer only) serves good pasta and fish
dishes, though it’s the cocktails and daily DJ parties that
interest the majority of visitors. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. Beer
400 lek. PAEBK
Order a bottle of mineral water with your meal, and chanc-
es are that you’ll get sparkling water that was shipped
all the way from France, Italy or further away – usually
at a high price for both the environment and the diner’s
wallet. All this while Albania has excellent and abundant
mineral water, and several good brands such as Glina and
Tepelena are on the market. Join TIYP in asking restaurant
managers to have at least one local brand on the menu
so patrons have the choice. The Albanian economy needs
all the support it can get, and this will help in a small way.
Drink ujë, not aqua
Tirana’s nightlife scene is not bad at all, and is improving
fast. The fun starts with the lively xhiro (mass evening
stroll), and ends at the bustling blloku area. There’s
a fine line between cafés, bars and clubs (and indeed
workplaces) in Albania, and some venues that we have
listed as cafés or bars are known to morph into clubs on
weekend nights. You’ll know when the sound gets cranked
up and long-legged gogo girls climb onto your table. Note
that Albanians prefer sipping coffee to serious drinking,
and foreign types are often the only sad souls knocking
back the hard stuff.
Bars
Alfa Club D-4/5, Rr. Barrikadave 14, tel. +355 4 224
03 66. A hip young crowd, smoke, drinks and mixed music
styles - all you need for a good night out. Bottle of wine or
whisky for 7,500 lek. QOpen 23:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. PAK
Bon Bon H-4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, tel. +355 69 541
81 80. A bar on Tirana’s most fashionable nightlife street
serving the city’s best Mojitos. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 08:30 - 04:00. PB
Cameleon H-4, Rr. Dervish Hima, tel. +355 69 205 13
78. A compact and modern bar in a riot of bright primary
colours, Cameleon’s novelty is the ever-changing display of
multi-coloured lights throughout the evening. It’s a little hard
to tell what’s in your glass when everything shifts from blue
to orange, but its less annoying than you might think. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. Beer 300 lek. P
Canon H-4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani. Let’s rock! In chilled style,
in a narrow dog’s leg room painted bright orange you will find
Lizard H- 4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani, tel. +355 69 202 27
92. A large shed of a place that regularly gets crammed
wi th young l ocal s, del i ghted wi th the l i ve rock musi c.
Drop by Wednesdays for the hot Latin nights. Q Open
24hrs. PE
Meduza H- 5, Rr. Mustaf a Matohiti, tel. +355 4
222 35 98. A l arge bar i n the wacky pallati me birila
bui l di ng. Engl i sh and Austral i an beers are on tap,
there’s a good-val ue l unch menu and i n the eveni ng a
sel ecti on of I tal i an, Lebanese and i nternati onal di shes
i s ser ved, fol l owed by cocktai l s. There’s l i ve musi c on
Wednesday, Fri day and Saturday wi th Sal sa danci ng,
DJs and bands. The Pri me Mi ni ster l i ves upstai rs, whi ch
expl ai ns the ner vous guards tel l i ng you not to take
pi ctures on the street, and when he has a headache
the vol ume gets turned down. QOpen 06: 00 - 01: 00.
Beer 400 l ek. PABW
Music Box G- 4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Rinia
Park, tel. +355 4 225 11 75. A spacious, upmarket bar
on the first floor of the Taiwan complex, with a nice terrace
overlooking the fountain. Leave your coat at the garderobe
and sag in a couch to listen to DJ music. QOpen 07:00 -
02:00. Beer 500 lek.
Noel F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 4 224 36 38.
A film lover’s den of delights, Noel is appropriately owned
by the director of the local film institute, and is set in a
basement opposite the Millennium 2 cinema. A mature
crowd of culture vultures can be found sitting eating and
drinking at tables amidst hundreds of magazine photos of
movie icons and scenes. Food on offer includes traditional
tava and qofte meatballs. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, 19:00-
24:00. Closed Sun.
Radio H-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 29/1, tel. +355 69 28 44
24. One of Tirana’s cooler bars, covered in old radio station
logos, a Guernica painting, a typewriter on a stool and a
few antique radios scattered around. Filled with students
and others on most nights, it’s a relaxed place to listen to
chilled music and chat. Find it in an apartment building set
back from the street.
Rock ‘n Roll I-6, Rr. Dervish Hima. A small bar with clas-
sic green and red wallpaper and a great atmosphere, very
popular with locals and foreigners alike. Mercifully, no house
music is played here, just honest blues, country and the odd
rock ‘n roll song, with DJs sometimes dropping by to spin their
discs. The usual drinks are served, with a good selection of
whiskeys to fuel the night. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. B
Rockwood H-5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, N°11/1. A small
and friendly bar on the ground floor of a tall office building
(also conveniently housing the IYP offices), serving endless
coffees by day and playing rock and other music styles at
night. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00.
Steelwings (Harley Davidson Bar) G/H-4, Rr. Vaso
Pasha, tel. +355 69 202 23 31. Official home of the
Steelwings Albania Motorcycle Club and easily located by the
multitude of cool rides parked outside, this rocking bar full
of leather-clad motorbike enthusiasts is decorated with all
the usual Americana. It’s a very friendly place, and the own-
ers Tani and Dani stress that everyone is welcome. Visit on
Thursdays for the unplugged sessions or on weekend nights
for rock karaoke and live rock and country music. QOpen
08:00 - 02:00. Beer 200 lek. EB
Where is the nearest
club?
Ku ndodhet klubi më
I afërt?
I need a... Dua një …..
... beer birrë
... wine verë
... cocktail koktell
... cigarette cigare
... lighter çakmak
... ashtray tabak
... man burr
... woman grua
Where can I find a taxi? Ku mund ta gjejë një
taksi?
You have beautiful eyes. Keni sy të bukur.
Your place or mine? Vendi im apo I yti?
Where I come from,
that’s illegal.
Prej nga unë vij, kjo
është jo legale.
Pub talk
The La Folie club terrace
Chilling at Steelwings
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Stylus Club Marriott H- 4, Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel.
+355 69 309 68 10. A café and bar behind Enver Hoxha’s
old villa that really comes alive during the Friday and Satur-
day night karaoke sessions – warble along to your favourite
Albanian or foreign song together with the Magic 4 group.
The karaoke starts at 22:30. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 22:30 - 05:00.
Tiki I- 4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi. Sur f’s up at the tropi cal -
styl e Tiki Bar, where sur fboards stand i n the sand, a
ropey ship-theme dominates the two-storey interior, and
palm l eaf parasols shade the cocktail -sipping patrons
from the Al banian sun. Wednesdays sees bands play
li ve here, whil e house and R&B DJs take over on Fri day
and Saturday. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 -
04:00. EB
Tirana Rock I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, tel. +355 69 260
06 57/+355 67 208 05 71. One of Tirana’s best bars,
the Rock has a lot of wood, wild parties and loud live music
played every Wednesday (unplugged), Thursday (new bands),
Friday and Saturday (rock). Their classic Tirana Rock Café
T-shirts sold out in no time, ask to see if they’re available
again. Admission is free, though beer costs more when bands
play. Closing times are very flexible. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00,
Sun 17:00 - 03:00. PEBW
Unit Bar H-4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani. Tirana’s only reggae bar
is a basic, friendly place, a far cry from the slick lounges just
down the street. The owners are proud that only ‘selected’
reggae, electro and underground music is played, and there’s
an alternative live band playing every few weeks. Don’t miss
the annual Bob Marley birthday party (around Feb 6). QOpen
08:00 - 03:00. PEB
Sophisticated interiors, quiet music and a good selec-
tion of wines to sample.
30 Over H-3, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani 8/1, tel. +355 68
407 43 16. When you’ve had enough of Tirana’s relent-
less youthfulness, head to this vinoteka where they aim
for a more mature clientèle. Lit by candlesticks in empty
bottles, this is a decent place as any to enjoy a glass of
wine (some 15 types are available from across the world)
with some snacks. From mid-Oct to mid-May there’s live
music on weekend nights.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PEG
Alcora G/H-4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Twin Towers,
tel. +355 4 228 01 42. A popular and stylishly upmarket
wine bar on the fourth floor of the Twin Towers complex.
The locals come here for the see-and-be-seen factor and
nip coffee and wine or taste the antipasta dishes. There’s
a very nice terrace with views of the treetops, budgies in
a cage and a tree lit up pink.QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PB
Alehandro H/I- 4, Rr. Nikolla Tupe, tel. +355 4
225 17 75. A cheerful wine bar appropriately hung with
empty bottles, well-stocked with Italian, Spanish, Chilean
and other wines at around 300 lek a glass. Although the
focus is on wine and grappa, there are some anti-pasta
dishes available so you can keep going all night.QOpen
18:00 - 02:30. PGB
Bonaparte G/H-4, Blv. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit,
tel. +355 69 407 47 03. The most upmarket wine bar
in town comes highly recommended by online Tirana In
Your Pocket readers. On the first floor of the building,
overlooked by a portrait of Napoleon, visitors can get
sozzled on a dizzying array of quality French wines, co-
gnac and over 30 types of whiskey. Exclusive Armagnac
brandy is also served at €1500 a bottle or a mere €150
per glass. Snacks are served, as are Cuban cigars that
may be smoked here. Pity about the smoke.QOpen
09:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00.
Enoteca Joan H-4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani 8, tel. +355
69 207 35 90. A wine-lovers’ café run by a sommelier
- what could possibly be better? Sample a large variety
of mainly Italian wines, as well as some great Italian and
French dishes, in this small venue that’s set back from
the road.QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Sun 18:30 - 23:00. $$
Wine Shop H-5, Rr. Vaso Pasha. Heavy and earnest
wooden furniture sends echoes around this wonderfully
chilled alternative to the younger-focus of Tirana nightlife.
Wines from around Europe and open cask examples
from Albania and Macedonia are offers at good prices.
Accompany these with salty titbits and Albanian cheeses.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. P
Wine Spirit I-3, Rr. Andon Zako Çajupi, tel. +355 69
208 84 81/+355 69 208 65 95, koncept4@hotmail.
com. Hidden deep in the bllok area near the Conad super-
market, this is one of Tirana’s better wine bar/restaurants,
with a dark wood interior with old carpets and a grand piano.
The walls are lined with wine bottles, as they should be, and
the selection of Italian, French and other foreign wines is
complemented by a selection of Albanian reds, of which
Kajoshi is worth a try. There’s Italian food on offer and on
Friday and Saturday evenings there’s live tinkling on the
piano.QOpen 17:00 - 01:00. $$ PEBSW
Wine bars
Vogue Lounge H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. One
of the newer villa conversions in town, first a politburo resi-
dence and then a UN office, Vogue is the trendiest of the lot.
With a glass-fronted facade, comfy chairs, designer lamps,
mellow music and a terrace with pond underneath the palm
trees it’s crammed with the city’s beautiful at night.QOpen
07:30 - 02:00. PB
Zanzibar H- 5, Rr. Mustafa Matohiti. Despi te the
name there is nothing very African about this place apart
from the mural of the Sahel plain that runs the length of
one wall and a few random elephant carvings. One of six
bars in a row in a crazy building, it’s fun to sit outside and
compare your waiter’s performance with the rest. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. PB
Pubs
Irish Bar H- 4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani. A fantasti c I ri sh
bar i n the bllok area, wi th several I ri sh, German and
Bel gi an beers on of fer, though l acki ng pub grub. There
are TV screens showi ng sports. The best thi ng about
the bar i s the buzzi ng atmosphere and the pl easant
outsi de seati ng area. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 03:00. PB
Clubs
Cal vi n Rr. El basani t 118/1, tel . +355 4 237
99 99/+355 68 212 79 61. Come j i ggl e wi th the
gl i t teri ng gi rl s. A purpl e and l i me green l ego bri ck
moti f, both i nsi de and out, wi th the l atest Turbofol k
(tradi ti onal Bal kan musi c on speed) bl asted at a happy
crowd. Just east of the centre. QOpen 24 hrs. Beer
250-500 l ek. PW
Folie F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 68 609 22 22,
foliebar@gmail.com, www.myspace.com/foliebar.
Playing ‘selected music for good people’ in an extravagant
three-storey space with plenty of glass balconies for mak-
ing yoursel f seen, Folie is one of Tirana’s best clubs. Set
beside the Millennium cinema, it has a fantastic outdoor
terrace area too. Watch the posters for their themed nights.
Q PBW
Lollipop H- 4, Rr. Pjetër Bogdani 36, tel. +355
67 206 75 00, lollipoptirana@gmail.com, www.
myspace.com/lollipoptirana. An achingl y trendy club
for Tirana’s cool est peopl e, wi th l ots of brushed steel,
sofas in vi vi d red and blinding whi te and polka dots on
the wall. At the weekend the DJs come out and do their
thing competing against the li ve bands at Charl’s Bistro
across the street. Stri ctl y a house and dance musi c
venue. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. Cl osed Sun. Beer 400
l ek. PEB
Mumja F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 68 609 16 68,
mumja.bar@gmail.com. Originally located in the pyramid
(hence the name) and now near the Millennium cinema,
Mumja is a hopping club playing a wide variety of music on
weekend nights to a wild crowd of students. Q Open Fri,
Sat 23:00-04:00. P
Raum H- 4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 69 337 02
01. How l oud can a student bar get? Raum does i ts
best to put thi s to the test, and the crowd danci ng
away the ni ght i n thi s fi rst-fl oor bar must be deaf for
days af ter the par ty. Expect fri endl y students, cheap
cocktai l s, sweaty moves on the dance fl oor and rup-
tured eardrums.
Sharm Club I-5, Sheshi Italia, tel. +355 4 224 90
26, www.sharm-club.net. With a large outdoor space for
cooling down on warm nights, Sharm is a disco club done
up in outrageous colours and materials (think glass floors,
padded walls and Ionian pillars), and playing the usual house
hits to a happy crowd. Just east of the Sheraton. Q Open
Fri, Sat 22:00-03:00. PE
Venue Dance Club Rr. Sadik Petrela 20, tel. +355 68
601 11 11, info@venuedanceclub.com, www.venue-
danceclub.com. A rocking dance club with a rather strange
name playing house and dance music, with occasional stage
shows and live music. There’s a terrific party atmosphere
and cheap drinks. The club is northeast of the centre near
Rruga Qemal Stafa, near the ring road; tell the cabbie it’s
near Profarma. In July and August the whole club moves to
Durrës.QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00-04:30. PAE
Casinos
Regency Casino G-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit,
Rinia Park, Taiwan, tel. +355 4 227 47 39, www.
regencycasino.al. The casino inside the Taiwan complex
has 20 gaming tables and 250 slot machines. Dress up,
bring ID and be older than 21 to get in.
Imagine H-6, Sheshi Skënderbej 8, Tirana Interna-
tional Hotel, tel. +355 68 206 10 88. A rock bar with
a homage to the late great John Lennon, with black and
white photos of him and other famous musicians lining
the walls. Imagine is pleasant enough for some late-night
drinking, but is at its best when live rock music is played
on Fridays and Saturdays. At the rear of the hotel. Q
Open Wed-Sat 19:30-03:00. PE
Rei Jazz Club I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri 5, Vesa Cen-
ter, tel. +355 4 227 88 16. A great bar dedicated to
recorded and live jazz music on the ground floor of the
Vesa Center building. Only drinks are served, and there’s
a good variety of beer, wine,cocktails and dozens of
whiskeys available. At 22:30 on Friday and Saturday
nights, local and foreign artists play live; the admission
fee charged on these nights includes a drink. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Admission on
concert nights 1,500 lek.
Jazz Clubs
The parliament building by night
The best places to eat, drink,
see, sleep and experience
could be metres away.
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34
WHAT TO SEE
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
35
WHAT TO SEE
Spring/Summer 2011 tirana.inyourpocket.com
Orthodox Cathedral (Katedralja e re Ortodokse)
F-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Under construction, the
massive new Orthodox cathedral currently looks like a nuclear
power plant. The modern-style building with lots of concrete
and a space-age bell tower should be finished in 2011.
Orthodox Church (Kisha Orthodokse) F-2, Rr. Ka-
vajës 151, tel. +355 4 223 50 95/2234117, fax +355
4 223 21 09, www.orthodoxalbania.org. The Orthodox
Church of the Holy Annunciation was built in 1964, but closed
in 1967 and was then used to house the Tirana Sports Club.
Services resumed in 1990. The Orthodox Church of Albania
first became autocephalous in 1937 and again in 1992.
Museums & Galleries
Archaeological Museum (Muzeu Arkeologjik) I-5,
Sheshi Nënë Tereza, tel. +355 4 224 07 11. Archeol-
ogy buffs who aren’t satisfied by the finds on display at the
National History Museum will find even more fragments of
various finds here, from pottery and animal statuettes to
arrowheads and jewellery. QOpen 10:30 - 14:30. Closed
Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Linda Spahiu Costume Collection tel. +355 68 304
26 64/+355 68 212 10 08, atelielinda@hotmail.com.
Linda and her son Luris are perhaps Tirana’s most fervent
collectors and restorers of traditional Albanian costumes;
they sold the family house and moved into a rented apart-
ment to be able to purchase more items. Although they do
not have a permanent exhibition space yet, they are happy
to show their collection and sell some items to interested
visitors. Their top pieces, which include waistcoats, heavy
woollen embroidered xhubleta skirts, and delicate table-
cloths. Luris speaks English and French. Take a taxi or bus
up Rr. Elbasanit to the first roundabout after the Martyr’s
Cemetery and you’ll be met there. Q Open by appointment.
Admission free, donations welcome.
Tirana’s sights are quite low-key, and therefore the
must-sees can nearly be counted on one finger. If time
allows you to take in some culture, follow our short city
walk (see page 36), visiting the Et’hem Bey Mosque
and the National History Museum before getting a
coffee in the bllok area.
Essential Tirana
Skanderbeg Square (Sheshi Skënderbej) E-4, . Ti-
rana’s main square, Sheshi Skënderbej, is that vast expanse
of asphalt where you‘ve got to dodge both Mercedes and
plastic kiddie cars. The square was large even before World
War II, but the Communists made it absolutely massive (and
in the process, cleared away an old bazaar).
Started in 1958, the pompous Palace of Culture was built
with Soviet assistance. But when Albanian-Soviet rela-
tions deteriorated, the chief Soviet engineer on the project
gathered up all the blueprints and left the country. Chinese
experts had to be called in to finish the job. Today this building
contains the Opera and the National Library.
The mosaic on the facade of the National History Museum
represents the flow of Albanian history. The Puppet Theater
has a surprising past: before World War II, it housed King
Zog‘s puppet parliament. Other sights here include the
imposing red-brick National Bank, the Et‘hem Bey Mosque
and Skanderbeg’s statue.
As part of a complete makeover of Tirana’s city centre, the
square is currently under construction, and when they finally
finish (nobody dares to estimate when), it is to be green
and pedestrianised, surrounded by 80m-high buildings to
accentuate the core of the city.
Churches
Cathedral of St. Paul (Katedralja e Shen Palit)
G-5, Blv. Zhan D’Ark, tel. +355 4 223 46 55. Tirana’s
Catholic cathedral looks somewhat bland on the outside
save for the statue of St Paul perched on the roof, but it has
a quite nice interior with impressive concrete architecture.
Note Mother Teresa and Pope John Paul II featured in the
stained glass windows. QOpen 06:00 - 12:00; 14:00-
19:00. Open 08:30-12:30, 17:00-19:00, winter afternoons:
16:00-19:00.
Heart of Christ Church (Kisha Zemra e Krishtit)
F-3, Rr. Kavajës, tel. +355 4 224 86 91. Tirana’s oldest
surviving Catholic church is the Romance-style Jesuit church,
built by Giovanni Santi (from Udine in Italy) in 1939. In 1967,
when all religious activity in Albania was banned, it was
stripped of its frescoes and turned into a cinema. It reopened
as a church in 1991, with two chapels repainted in 1999.
Visitors are welcome in the morning and afternoon hours.
Points of interest
Central Market (Pazari i ri) E-5, Sheshi Avni Rustemi.
Small fruit and vegetable stalls can be found across the city,
but the daily pazari i ri (‘new market’) truly captures the spirit
of the country in a messy explosion of colour, people, fresh pro-
duce and trash. Apart from fruit, vegetables, fish and meat, the
stalls display a dozen varieties of olives, cheeses, wines and
raki throughout small squares and snaking alleyways. Animal
rights activists won’t like the sight of bunches of live chickens
slung over bicycle handlebars, but at least these chicks didn’t
grow up in Guantanamo poultry farms. Early morning is the
best time of day to witness Balkan-style trading and haggling.
Martyrs’ Cemetery (Varrezat e Dëshmorëve) Rr.
Elbasanit. This cemetery holds the remains of 900 parti-
sans who fought for Tirana in WWII. The 12m-high dynamic
white statue of Mother Albania, inaugurated in 1972, watches
over the graves in a windswept gown. Enver Hoxha used to
be buried at her feet until he fell from grace in 1991. From the
heights of the cemetery, Tirana and Mt. Dajti are spread out
panoramically before you. A short drive on the bus to Sauk.
QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.
Pyramid (Piramida) G-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit.
The pyramid, as it’s popularly known, opened in 1988 as a
museum dedicated to the Albanian dictator-cum-pharaoh
Enver Hoxha. Designed by Hoxha’s daughter Pranvera, the
building was reportedly the most expensive ever erected
in Albania. After the regime collapsed, the place became a
conference center and location of a club (called The Mummy,
of course). Now semi-derelict, the government wants to de-
molish it to make place for new parliament buildings, though
there’s a healthy heated debate about the destruction of the
past and preservation of the park going on.
In front of the building, the Peace Bell installation was made
in 1999 as a memorial to peace by the children of Shkodra.
The bell’s metal comes from thousands of bullet cartridges,
fired off during the lawless 1990s.
Mosaic fragment at the Shëngjin Church ruin
The new Orthodox Cathedral clock tower
Mezuraj Museum (Mezuraj Muze) E-3, Rr. Kavajës,
Sun Business Centre, tel. +355 4 226 71 96, info@
mezuraj.museum, www.mezuraj.museum. Tirana’s first
private museum consists of 800-object Mezuraj family collec-
tion of which a changing selection is on display. Two rooms are
dedicated to Albanian paintings and sculptures, with a striking
Socialist Realist depiction of happy young people on a harvest
campaign. There are also various archaeological artefacts
on display, including Greek amphorae, beautiful bronze-age
jewellery, 4th century weights, spearheads, and a plate from
the sunken Italian warship ‘Po’. Find the museum above the
Raiffeisen bank on the first floor of the tall business centre
500m from Sheshi Skanderbeg; enter on the right side of the
building. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission 300 lek.
National Art Gallery (Galeria Kombëtare e Arteve)
F-4/5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, tel. +355 4 223 39 75,
www.gka.al. Looted in 1997, the city’s art museum has seen a
comeback and now hosts a varied collection. Besides the chang-
ing shows, there’s a permanent exhibition of works by Albania’s
earliest painters starting in the 1800s, most of it thoroughly
plagiarized since the 1990s by hundreds of living painters. The
floors above contain realist socialist works depicting heroic par-
tisans, Albania’s industrial might and factory workers, produced
from 1944 to 1990 during Hoxha’s dictatorship when even the
size of canvas and subject matter were dictated. The top floor is
devoted to contemporary modern art by artists who are at last
free to give the stroke of a brush their own expression. The gal-
lery is surrounded by a lovely park, and as a special bonus at the
rear of the building you’ll find some still-defiant Communist-era
partizan statues clenching their fists at the sky, as well as huge
statues of Lenin and Stalin. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 -
14:00. Closed Mon. Research complete, December 15 10, silvia
spoke to Arben, Admission 200 lek.
National History Museum (Muzeu Historik Kom-
bëtar) E-4, Sheshi Skënderbej, tel. +355 4 222 34 46,
muzeutr@yahoo.com. You can’t miss the gargantuan mosaic
on the facade - it represents the development of Albania’s
history with everyone from Illirians to partisans represented.
Inside, each hall covers one of the stages in the development of
the Albanian nation. Repeated looting in the 1990s has robbed
the museum of many artefacts, but it remains the best place in
Albania to tank up on history and to view beautiful finds from the
many archeological sites across the country. One hall focuses
on the years around the Second World War and the resistance
movements, while the museum ends with a harrowing exhibi-
tion about Albania’s gruesome labour camp system and the
thousands of men and women who were swallowed by it. There
are some English texts but it’s best to bring an Albanian for a
better understanding. The museum shop is an excellent place
to shop for books and traditional crafts. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00,
Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 200 lek.
Old habits die hard, old Albanian habits in particular.
Take the currency, the lek. In 1964 and 1991, a zero
was cut from the currency and new banknotes and coins
introduced to make the numbers easier to handle. But
still, you’ll get sometimes get quoted amounts in old leks
in shops, so you’re told to pay 1000 lek rather than 100.
This is not to rip you off – it’s just an old habit that’s just
as comfy as those awful slippers you wear at home, and
even if you do put down ten times the amount necessary,
you’ll get the right change. Even though all the signs and
price tags in shops are new lek, not all Albanian minds
have made the transition.
Old habits - new leks
TIA Tourist Information Point TIA, tel. +355
4 238 49 80, www.tirana-airport.com. A handy
tourist information kiosk in the airport arrivals hall,
with Tirana In Your Pocket guides, maps, providing
answers to questions about Tirana and Albania.QOpen
09:00 - 19:00.
Tourist Information Office (Zyra e Informa-
cionit Turistik) E-4, Rr. Ded Gjo Luli, tel. +355 4
222 33 13, infotourism@tirana.gov.al, www.tirana.
gov.al. The city’s friendly tourist information centre
is right behind the National Museum. Drop by to get
information about Tirana and copies of Tirana In Your
Pocket.QOpen Apr-Oct 09:00-19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-
16:00; Nov-Mar 09:00-17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-16:00.
Tourist information
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WHAT TO SEE
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WHAT TO SEE
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Natural Science Museum (Museu i Shkencave
Të Natyrës) F-2, Rr. Kavajës, tel. +355 4 222 90 28.
This small, old-fashioned collection in a ramshackle building
includes lots of stuffed animals (of the taxidermic, not cud-
dly, kind), birds and various strange sea creatures, including
the biggest sea turtle ever found in Albania. QOpen 08:00
- 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Shëngjin Church Mosaic (Mozaiku i Tiranës) E-2,
Rr. Naim Frashëri. An excavated Byzantine-era church ruin
that was only discovered in 1972 boasts Tirana’s oldest
artworks: mosaics with geometric patterns and depictions
of poultry and fish. Nicely exhibited in a little park and pro-
tected by a makeshift roof, there are also various stones,
some from the church iconostasis, scattered around the
site. Unfortunately there’s little in the way of explanations.
A little obscure but well worth a look if you’re in this part of
town: look for the Hallall pizzeria on the northern end of the
street, and walk 100 metres west. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. Admission free.
Zeta Gallery I- 4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, Hekla Center,
tel. +355 4 226 66 80/+355 68 213 01 80, zeta.
artgallery@yahoo.com. A wi ndowl ess room on the
second floor of a new building has changing art exhibitions
by young local and international artists. When we visited,
we saw a looped video of a guy shooting at something in
the Grand Park, and photos comparing 1980s Tirana to
the current situation. Q Open 09:30-14:00, 17:00-20:30.
Closed Sun.
Ottoman Tirana
Clock Tower (Kulla e sahatit) F-4/5, Sheshi Sken-
derbej, tel. +355 4 224 32 92. Tirana’s landmark central
sight is the clock tower from 1822. Brightly lit at night, it can
be seen from the far end of Rr. Durrësit when entering the
city. Started off by Et`hem Bey, completed by the locals and
extended to 35m in 1928, when a German-made clock was
also installed, it was for long the highest building in town, and
the views of the city centre from the top are worth the climb.
The shadow of the tower strikes the mosque at sunset, an
event long used to demark the closing time of the formerly
adjacent market place. Q Open Mon 09:00-13:00, Thu
09:00-13:00, 16:00-18:00. Admission 100 lek.
Tirana’s most signi ficant
buildings are concentrat-
ed al ong one thorough-
fare: Bulevardi Dëshmorët
e Kombit, the “Boulevard
of the Martyrs”. The walk
descri bed bel ow, from
Skanderbeg Square to
the Polytechnic University,
will take you past Tirana’s
highlights in a flash.
Starting underneath the mosaic of the National Museum
on Skanderbeg Square, pass Et’hem Bey Mosque to-
wards the elegant government buildings at the end of the
square, housing ministries and the town hall. These were
built in the 1930s, during the rule of King Zog.
The grand boulevard leading south from here was the
brainchild of the Italian Fascists, who held parades here
during World War II. It later became the venue for the locals’
xhiro (evening stroll). In fact, it used to be closed off to
traffic in evenings - what bliss that would be now. Cross
the next street (Rruga Myslym Shyri) and on your left is
the Art Gallery, then, hidden behind pine trees, the former
Hotel Dajti. On your right is Rinia Park, which was concealed
beneath illegally built bars and pizzerias in the 1990s. The
municipality reclaimed the area, and with popular support
bulldozed the buildings in order to restore the park.
Walk across the next wide streets (Bulevardi Zhan D’Ark;
Bulevardi Bajram Curri) and perhaps without noticing
you’ve crossed the Lana River, whose green banks
were also crammed with illegal buildings until order was
restored. Here you arrive at the ‘pyramid’. On your right,
next to the Twin Tower business centre is a small park
with the busts of the three Frashëri brothers.
Just past the next crossing on your left is the Prime
Minister’s Residence, which was once the Communist
Party headquarters. During official demonstrations and
parades, Party leaders stood on the balcony here and
waved to the masses below. In January 2011, this was
the scene of rioting and three deaths when nervous
guards opened fire on demonstrators. On the right is
the former Party Committee building.
Beyond Rruga Ismail Qemali you’ll pass the Rogner Euro-
papark Hotel, and a little further the modernist Palace of
Congresses. Originally built for Party congresses, it now
hosts concerts, festivals and fairs. On your right, fenced
off and concealed behind trees, is the President’s Palace.
This building served as the Soviet embassy until 1961,
when all diplomatic relations were broken off, and for a
while thereafter it housed parliament.
The disproportionately large, empty square at the end
of the boulevard is Sheshi Nënë Tereza (Mother Teresa
Square), named for the nun who was arguably the most
famous Albanian of the 20th century; her statue can
be found up the steps. To the left is the Archaeological
Museum; on the right, the Art Academy. At the southern
end of the boulevard stands the Polytechnic University,
originally erected by the Italian Fascists. Its imposing
stone façade certainly seems better fitted for reviewing
goose-stepping soldiers from than for studying in. Going
further down the paths on either side of the university
whisks you out of urban Tirana and into the Grand Park.
City walk
Just over 15 years ago, all Albania was a living Stalinist
theme park. Since then, most of the ‘attractions’ have
disappeared, but a few relics are still left over.
During the communist era, the bllok (block) area was
completely cordoned off by armed guards. This was
the residential area of Party leaders. The collection of
villas here, impressive enough by Western standards,
absolutely dazzled the average Albanian once this area
was opened to the public. The three-storey modular
home on the corner of Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit and
Rr. Ismail Qemali was dictator Enver Hoxha’s villa, which
is now a government residence. After Hoxha’s death,
the Enver Hoxha Memorial (the pyramid) was built in his
honour. A massive gilded statue of Hoxha was erected
on Skanderbeg Square - you can still see the raised
pedestal. It was dramatically toppled by demonstrators
in 1991, ending Hoxha’s longstanding cult of personality.
After the regime collapsed, not even Hoxha’s remains
could evade the judgement of history. Originally buried
with honours in the Martyrs’ Cemetery, Hoxha was dug
up in 1992 and unceremoniously filed away in Kombinati
Cemetery in west Tirana.
A statue of Lenin once stood on Bulevardi Dëshmorët e
Kombit, in front of the Art Gallery. Across the street stood
a bust of Joseph Stalin - probably the last place in Europe
besides Georgia where he was thus honoured. Uncle
Joe’s head was carted away before the fall of the regime
at the end of 1990, but this symbolical de-Stalinisation
came too late to save the leaders.
Behind the Ministry of the Interior on Bulevardi Dësh-
morët e Kombit stood the headquarters of the Sigurimi
(state security police). The feared organisation ran labour
camps for political prisoners and maintained a network of
informers (known as ‘80 lek men,’ for the monthly bonus
they supposedly got for snitching on their countrymen).
The Arts Gallery has some Socialist Realist statues and
paintings that are worth a look, but walk around the back
to find some of Tirana’s last Commie statues huddled
behind the building. There’s a few workers and soldiers
there, but most impressive are the huge statues of Lenin
and a very rare one of Stalin.
The best place to get more information about Albania’s
totalitarian years is the National History Museum which
has a large hall dedicated to the period.
Communist sights
Vladimir and Joseph, behind the National Art Gallery
Et’hem Bey Mosque (Xhamia e Et’hem Beut) F-4,
Sheshi Skenderbej, tel. +355 4 222 37 01. Perhaps the
only real sight in Tirana, this pretty mosque is right on the
city’s main square, making it hard to miss. Construction of
the ‘Xhamia e Haxhi Ethem Beut’ mosque started in 1794 and
was finished in 1821 by Et’hem Bey (who evidently got all the
credit). Closed under communist rule, the mosque reopened
as a house of worship in 1991, without permission from the
authorities. 10,000 courageous people dared to attend and
remarkably the police did not interfere. The event was a
milestone in the rebirth of religious freedom in Albania. Take
a look at the frescoes outside and in the portico which depict
trees, waterfalls and bridges - motifs rarely seen in Islamic
art. Take your shoes off before entering the inner room. Q
Open for tourists 08:00-11:00.
Fortress of Justinian (Kalaja) F- 5, Rr. Murat
Toptani. When this fortress was built in the 6th century,
Albania was but an outpost on the western fringe of the
Byzantine Empire. The fortress the place where the main
east-west and north-south roads crossed, and formed the
heart of Tirana. About all that’s left of the fortress above
ground is a 6m-high Ottoman-era wall, covered in vines.
In late 2008, archaeol ogists uncovered the extensi ve
fortress foundations that will soon be incorporated into
the pedestrianised street.
Galeria Shijaku (Sali Shijaku House) B-5, Rr. V.
Luarasi, tel. +355 4 226 14 58. A large Ottoman-era
konak house surrounded by a lovely garden and a high wall.
There’s a shady café terrace in the garden, while the high
main room has been converted into an art gallery. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00.
House of the Dervish Khorosani D-4, Rr. Barrika-
dave. A pretty 19th century wooden building set in a small
courtyard. Next to the gate is an octagonal türbe holding the
graves of three babas. Find the house in a small courtyard
100m beyond the French cultural institute.
Tanners’ Bridge (Ura e tabakëve) F-6, Rr. Presidenti
George W. Bush, intersection with Blv. Zhan D`Ark.
This elegant Ottoman stone footbridge was once the main
connection between Tirana and the highlands to the east. It
was used to get agricultural produce and livestock across the
Lana River to the markets, and sits in the area of skinners and
leather workers. The Lana was rerouted in the 1930s and the
bridge was neglected, eventually becoming a rubbish tip. It’s
now restored to its former glory and is used by pedestrians
again. Watch out - slippery when wet.
Teqeja Dervish Hatixhe C-4, Rr. Dervish Hatixhe.
Dedicated to the female Bektashi Islamic saint Dervish
Hatixhe who was the Tirana Nightingale, nursing people
through a cholera epidemic. On her death in 1798 a tekke
was founded near her turbe (grave). It miraculously survived
the communist era and is still visited by people of varying
religions, especially women. A corridor leads past a soot-
blackened candle room to where the graves of Hatixhe and
her family members can be seen.
Tomb of Kaplan Pasha (Tyrbe e Kapllan Pasha)
F-5, Rr. 28 Nëntori. This türbe, or tomb, dates from 1817.
It honours Kaplan Pasha, who ruled Tirana in the early
19th century. It consists of eight classical columns linked
by arches. Left derelict, trash-strewn and hal f-sunk into
the pavement and lit only by a blue neon lamp for many
years, it is now to be renovated and graciously shielded by
the concave wall of the high-rise building currently under
construction next to it.
Tirana’s main boulevard
National Art Gallery
38
WHAT TO SEE
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
39
Spring/Summer 2011 tirana.inyourpocket.com
entrance, where hardhats are provided - bring a torch. Known
as the Shpella e Zeze (Black Cave), it’s 360 metres deep,
up to 45 metres high and features some great stalactites.
It was inhabited in prehistoric times, first by bears who left
a scattering of bones, and later by humans who dropped
all manner of tools in the neolithic, bronze and iron ages.
Pëllumbas village is 27km east of Tirana along the road to
Elbasan; turn left at the ‘Ujvara Resort’ sign and drive up into
the village, turning left at the ‘Pëllumbas’ sign. Ask around for
local guide Behar Duqi (or call the number above in advance),
who takes visitors to and into the cave. Buses to Pëllumbas
depart from Rruga Elbasan at 05:15 and 07:15, returning at
18:00. Outdoor Albania (see Travel agents) does regular
daytrips (€30/25) to the area which include transport, guiding
and a traditional meal (their association was instrumental
in opening up this cave for visitors). Q Admission 100 lek.
Petrela Castle (Kalaja e Petrelës) Petrelë, Tiranë,
tel. +355 69 208 8138. One of Albania’s best-preserved
castles, Petrela sits picturesquely on a steep slope over-
looking a river, 15km southeast of Tirana, along the road
to Elbasan. On a clear day you can see all the way to Kruja.
Emperor Justinian fortified this place to defend the settle-
ment of Dyrrachium (now Durrës). The tower in the centre
dates back to 500 AD; surrounding it are walls from the
Byzantine period, laid out in a triangle, with round towers at
the corners. The castle was used during Skanderbeg’s war
against the Turks; his sister Mamica lived here and defended
the castle, but it was eventually captured and used by Turkish
soldiers. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Admission free.
AROUND TOWN
Parks & Gardens
Botanical gardens (Kopshti Botanik) tel. +355 4 222
52 87. Part of Tirana University’s Faculty of Natural Sciences,
Tirana’s botanical garden is a pleasant 15-hectare area on the
slopes to the southwest of the centre. Founded in 1971, it houses
about 1400 species of plants, representing about a third of the
Albanian flora. Near to the zoo. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00.
Zoo (Kopshti Zoologjik Tiranë) Grand Park. Visiting
Tirana’s zoo is a fairly depressing experience. The inmates are
kept in a small block that is divided into ten cells. The animals
appear to be reasonably well fed and physically cared for, but
the financial challenges of the institution are evident. The
pens are small, featureless and clad with hospital tiles. The
wolf scatters at any approach to the bars, a monkey gazes at
the ceiling, his chin resting against the wall. The bedraggled
golden eagles - supposedly the proud symbol of Albania - do
have a perch, but it’s a stepladder. A little further into the park
along the pond, the lamas don’t know how good they have it in
their chalet housing. We’ve heard of plans to overhaul the zoo,
but there’s been little action till now. Find the zoo’s unmarked
entrance gate on the square at the end of the Grand Park dam.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 50 lek.
Statues & Monuments
Fan Noli Statue E-5, Sheshi Fan Noli. This 3-metre-tall,
roughly hewn statue commemorates Fan Noli (1882-1965),
one of Albania’s most revered historical figures. Educated at
Harvard, Noli was a writer and Orthodox bishop. He served
as prime minister in 1924. In his spare time he translated
Shakespeare and Cervantes into Albanian.
Monument for the Righteous Gentiles of Albania
E-4, Sheshi Skenderbeg. During World War Two, thousands
of Jews from across Europe fled to Albania to avoid Nazi perse-
cution, and together with Bulgaria, this was the only European
country where all of them survived thanks to the local citizens. A
bilingual plaque on the corner of the National Museum lists the
names of 33 Albanians who helped shelter Jews, and there’s
empty space for adding the many names that are yet unknown.
Mother Teresa Statue I-5, Sheshi Nënë Tereza. A
modest statue of Skopje-born but ethnic Albanian Nënë
Tereza or Mother Teresa stands in the southeast corner of
the square named after her.
Skanderbeg Statue E/F-4, Sheshi Skenderbej. Gjergj
Kastrioti (1405-68), also known as Skanderbeg in English and
Skenderbej in Albanian, is the only historical figure whom all
Albanians agree was a national hero. He managed to create an
independent Albanian princedom and keep it free for 25 long
years. After his death, Albania was occupied by the Ottomans,
but Skanderbeg’s legacy preserved the Albanian national iden-
tity throughout 500 years of Ottoman rule. Albanians consider
him not only the father of their nation, but also the man who
saved all Europe from the Ottoman Empire. The statue was
unveiled in 1968, exactly 500 years after Skanderbeg’s death.
Considering the era in which it was made, it’s surprising how little
concession the sculptor made to official socialist-realist style.
Unknown Partisan Statue F-5, Rr. Presidenti George
W. Bush. Fist upraised, fighting mad, charging forward with
a rifle in his hand - yes, it`s none other than the Unknown
Partisan. This statue was erected to honor the many Albanian
partisans who gave their lives fighting the fascists. Those
guys hanging out around the monument in the morning are
not WWII buffs but day labourers waiting for work, with their
powerdrills and tools on display.
Grand Park (Parku i Madh) K-5. A short stroll south
of central Tirana, the Grand Park is a haven from all the
traffic and dust. At one time, thousands of the city’s
inhabitants came here on holidays to play and picnic;
now it’s a place for people to snooze after lunchtime,
to fish, or to swim.
Reach the park by walking up the path to the west of the
university building; you’ll end up near Tirana Lake (roman-
tically known as ‘the artificial lake’), which is surrounded
by pleasant parkland and a few restaurants. Walk west
and you’ll soon reach the dam, at the other end of which
you’ll find Tirana Zoo and a few enterprising car wash
businesses using up all the lake water.
Walk east uphill to find several intriguing memorials.
One is the well-tended cemetery for the British troops
who died fighting the Germans in WWII. Their sacrifice
was long suppressed from the historical record, since
Britain was considered an imperialist enemy. Nearby
stand several grey stones listing the names of all Ger-
man soldiers who died in Albania during WWII, some of
them buried at this site. Just up the hill are the tombs of
the Frashëri brothers, who helped catalyse the Albanian
national awakening in the late 19th century. Abdyl was
leader of the Prizren League; Sami was a radical agitator
for an independent Albanian republic; and Naim was the
first major Albanian-language poet. Across the field to
the right is an anti-fascist monument.
The Palace of the Brigades, which once served as the
residence of King Zog, stands at the far edge of the park
along Rr. Elbasanit and was named for the partisans
who captured it in WWII. Now used for official receptions
(and with a military headquarters nearby), it is off limits
to the public.
Rinia Park G-4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit. A decade
ago, Rinia Park was a disgraceful mess of illegal con-
structions, garbage and shady dealings. During the city’s
clean-up, the buildings were bulldozed and the result is
this pleasant spot of green. The park is now the proud
focus of the evening xhiro, when thousands of people
dress up and stroll around to meet up and chat with
friends. The spidery white building that looks like it could
be the lair of a James Bond villain is an entertainment
complex called Taiwan, apparently for being a sort of
island in the park, housing restaurants, a swish terrace
café, bowling alleys and a casino. The main attraction
however is the fountain in front of Taiwan which in the
evening fascinates hundreds of young and old onlookers
with its light show.
Tirana parks
Dajti Ekspres Cable Car (Teleferik) Linza, tel.
+355 4 237 91 11, dajtiekspres@yahoo.com, www.
dajtiekspres.com. Whisking you up to 1230m above
sea level in under 15 minutes, the Austrian-built Dajti
Express cable car on the outskirts of Tirana is a fun ride.
Swooping over pastures, a lake and steep rocks, the
4km route offers great views of the mountain and the
city, ending at the edge of Dajti picnic field near the top of
the mountain. There you can hike in the lush forests, visit
the Ballkoni Dajtit restaurant, the Belvedere Hotel view-
ing platform, or take one of the shuttle vans to the other
hillside restaurants. A taxi from the city centre to the lower
station should costs 600 lek. A free shuttle bus service
is available from the terminus of the Porcelan bus line; or
take the Linza bus to its terminus and walk uphill another 5
minutes. If you’re driving, follow Rruga Hoxha Taksim east
and follow the signs. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
Return tickets 700 lekë, children under 6 free.
Dajti Ekspres cable car
Walking in the park
No trip to Tirana is complete without a trip out of Tirana.
When you’ve had enough of dust, mud and traffic, get
out and see some of the impressive landscapes in the
surrounding area.
Kruja Kalaja e Krujës, Krujë, tel. +355 5 211 22 25,
www.muzeukombetarskenderbeukruje.com. Kruja, 47
km north of Tirana, is touted as a good daytrip from the
capital, not only for sightseeing but also for souvenir-hunting.
However, if you’ve already been to Berat and Gjirokaster, you
may be disappointed with the humble nature of this town.
The most important sight in Kruja is the semi-ruined citadel
area, a fortress dating back to the fifth or sixth century and
perched dramatically on a rocky outcrop. Only by the end of
the 12th century was the citadel completed. It weathered
many sieges, the most famous being the Ottoman campaigns
repulsed by the Albanian warrior Skanderbeg and his men. Kruja
thus became a symbol of national resistance - not until 1478
(after Skanderbeg’s death) did the Ottomans succeed in captur-
ing the citadel. One of the few original structures remaining is
the clock tower, which was an observation and signalling post.
To the left of the citadel‘s main entrance is the Gjergj Kastriot
Skënderbeu Museum (tel.+355 5 11 22 25, open May-Sept
08:00-13:00, 16:00-19:00, closed Mon; Oct-Apr 09:00-13:00,
16:00-18:00, closed Mon, admission 200 lek), built to honour
the man otherwise known as Skanderbeg, and a shrine for
Albanians though less interesting for foreigners. The museum
was built with a fake medieval façade in 1982 and houses cop-
ies of Skanderbeg’s sword and spiky helmet (the originals are
in Vienna), paintings and exhibits (mostly replicas) presenting
Skanderbeg’s struggle against the Ottomans.
Nearby is the excellent small Ethnographic Museum (same
times and contact details, admission 200 lek) which displays the
beautiful interior of a traditional Albanian house around 1800.
Exhibits include 19th-century folk dress, as well as traditional
copper goods and clay utensils. The friendly caretaker will take
you on a whirlwind English-language tour of the rooms.
Though usually skipped by most visitors, the small streets
immediately below the Ethnographic Museum are Kruja’s
best; narrow and winding past high courtyard walls like they
did 500 years ago. Wander around and you’ll come across the
old citadel hamam (bathhouse, now converted to a church)
and the lovely Dollma teqe, a Bektashi temple building with
impressive decorations.
Just outside the citadel is the old bazaar; one street of quaint
shops with windows full of antiques, silver filigree jewellery, folk
costumes, woven rugs and traditional felt hats. Bargain hard,
they’re used to quoting high prices. When you’re done shopping
and sightseeing, head for the restaurants at the top end of the
citadel, which offer great views of the surroundings and serve
Albanian food. Turkish coffee comes in a traditional copper
pot and is best enjoyed curled up on the rows of pillows that
surround the Turkish tables of some restaurants.
Getting to Kruja: A taxi will cost 2,000-3,000 lek (negotiate
this beforehand). The bus costs 150 lek. As Kruja is just
30 minutes from the airport, it can easily be visited in the
morning for some last minute shopping before you catch
your flight. If you’re driving, follow the Shkodra road from
Tirana, turn right into Fushe Kruje (famous for the George
Bush disappearing watch act); stay on the main road, twist-
ing up through the forest and Kruja town, until you see signs
marked Kalaje (fortress).
Pëllumbas Cave (Shpella e Pëllumbasit) tel. +355
68 360 78 43, www.shpellaepellumbasit.com. For a
delightful trip away from the city, visit the cave in Pëllumbas
for some fresh air, beautiful rural landscapes, an invigorat-
ing walk, a swim in the river and some ancient history. From
Pëllumbas village it’s a two-kilometre guided walk along a
well-prepared path along the Erzen river canyon to the cave
40
GETTING AROUND
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
41
GETTING AROUND
Spring/Summer 2011 tirana.inyourpocket.com
Arriving in Tirana is not as straightforward and smooth as it
should be, but we’re working on it. Once you’re here, keep in
mind that as long as you are on the ground it’s going to be a
bumpy ride, whether you take a taxi, bus or car.
Airport & Airlines
Tirana International Airport (TIA, tel. +355 4 38 18 00,
lost & found tel. +355 69 206 66 26, www.tirana-
airport.com) is officially named Nënë Tereza or Mother
Teresa airport, but is also known as Rinas. The airport is
17km northwest of Tirana along a new access road. Passing
through is a pleasant experience.
A taxi to the airport costs about €20, call a yellow Airport
Express Taxi (ATE, tel. 223 34 19, 068 204 95 98, 068
207 03 11) and pay 2000 lek, or 2500 lek at night. A trip to
the airport usually takes 30 minutes. Parking at the airport
is free for 15 minutes, 150 lek for an hour, 720 lek for a day
and 3000 lek per week.
The Rinas Express airport bus (tel. 069 209 89 08, 069
205 40 02) departs every hour between 07:00 and 19:00
from beside the National Museum on Skenderbeg Square;
tickets cost 250 lek and the trip takes 30-45 minutes. Buses
from the airport to the centre depart every hour between
08:00 and 19:00.
Airport facilities include free wifi and an Adrion press shop
(open 03:00-21:00) selling newspapers, books, Albania
T-shirts, In Your Pocket city guides, and the Albania Busi-
ness Guide and Book of Lists investor handbooks. Voda-
fone and Eagle both have shops selling SIM and recharge
cards. There’s a tourist information desk in the arrivals area
only. The small departures area has fashion, jewellery and
duty-free shops (www.albaniadutyfree.com, tel. +355 42 38
19 48, open 07:00-23:00), and a small Adrion press shop.
Smoking is banned in the terminal, except for a small room
in the departures area.
Adria Airways (JP) G-5, Rr. Mine Peza, 102, tel./fax
+355 4 227 26 66, tel. +355 69 407 66 14, adria@adri-
aalbania.com, www.adria.si. Flights to Ljubljana. QOpen
08:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Albanian Airlines (LV) E-3, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 shkur-
tit, tel. +355 4 223 51 62, fax +355 4 223 51 38, ticket-
ing@albanianair.com, www.albanianair.com. Flights to
several European destinations. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 18:00.
Alitalia (AZ) H-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Rogner
Europapark Hotel, tel. +355 4 223 00 23, reservation@
all-fly-one.com, www.alitalia.it. Flights to Rome. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Austrian Airlines (OS) H-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit,
Rogner Hotel Europapark, tel. +355 4 223 50 29/+355
4 223 50 28, tirana.office@austrian.com, www.aus-
trian.com/al. Flights to Vienna. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Belle Air (LZ) Bulevardi Zogu I, N°1 Qendra Tregtare
Tirana, tel. +355 4 224 01 75, reservation@flybelleair.
com, www.belleair.al. Budget flights to Pristina in Kosovo,
various Italian cities and summer destinations in Turkey and
Egypt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
British Airways (BA) www.ba.com. Flights to London
Gatwick.
Germanwings (4U) tel. +44 871 702 99 74, www.
germanwings.com. Summertime flights to Cologne, from
June-Sept.
Jetairfly (TB) tel. +32 70 22 00 00, www.jetairfly.
com. Budget flights to Brussels between June-Oct.
From Tirana To Tirana
Days Dep. Arr. City Days Dep. Arr.
–2–4–67 16:20 17:30 ANCONA (LZ) –2–4–67 18:20 19:50
–––––6– 07:00 09:00 AMSTERDAM (LV) –––––6– 09:45 11:45
1234567 15:45 18:05 ATHENS (OP) 1234567 14:40 15:05
1––––6– 09:50 12:50 ATHENS (A3) 1––––6– 08:55 09:10
–2–45–7 16:55 19:10 ATHENS (A3) –2–45–7 14:00 16:15
––3–5–7 16:00 18:20 ATHENS (LV) ––3–5–7 18:30 19:10
1––4–6– 05:10 06:30 BUDAPEST (MA) ––3–5–7 23:10 00:30
1234567 15:10 16:30 BUDAPEST (MA) 1234567 13:10 14:30
1–3–5–– 12:40 14:10 FLORENCE (LZ) 1–3–5–– 15:00 16:30
–––––6– 07:30 09:00 FLORENCE (LZ) –––––6– 09:50 11:20
–––––6– 08:10 10:40 FRANKFURT (LV) –––––6– 11:30 14:00
–2––––– 11:10 13:40 FRANKFURT (LV) –2––––– 14:40 17:10
–––4––– 12:00 14:30 FRANKFURT (LV) –––4––– 15:40 18:10
––––––7 15:45 18:15 FRANKFURT (LV) ––––––7 19:25 21:45
1–3––6– 18:10 20:00 GENOVA (LZ) 1–3––6– 21:00 22:50
123–5–– 09:00 11:30 ISTANBUL (LV) 123–5–– 12:30 13:00
––––––7 13:00 15:55 ISTANBUL (LV) ––––––7 16:55 17:25
1–34––– 10:50 13:25 ISTANBUL (TK) 1–34––– 09:05 09:50
–2––567 14:50 17:25 ISTANBUL (TK) –2––567 18:45 17:30
1234567 15:10 16:30 LJUBJANA (JP) 1234567 13:15 14:20
––––––7 14:15 16:20 LONDON LGW (BA) ––––––7 09:30 13:30
12–4––– 15:05 17:10 LONDON LGW (BA) 12–4––– 10:20 14:20
–––––6– 19:35 21:40 LONDON LGW (BA) –––––6– 14:45 18:45
1–3–5–7 08:15 10:30 LONDON STN (LV) 1–3–5–7 11:15 15:30
–2–4––– 08:00 09:55 MILAN (LV) –2–4––– 10:45 12:45
––––––7 18:00 19:55 MILAN (LV) ––––––7 20:45 22:45
1234–67 12:50 14:40 MILAN (LZ) 1234–67 15:30 17:20
––––5–– 18:00 19:50 MILAN (LZ) ––––5–– 20:50 22:40
1–3–5–– 17:45 19:25 MILAN (AZ) 1–3–5–– 14:55 16:45
––––––7 12:00 13:45 MILAN (AZ) ––––––7 09:15 11:05
1234567 12:45 14:35 MUNICH (LH) 1234567 10:25 12:10
–––4––7 11:20 12:50 NAPLES (LZ) –––4––7 13:40 15:10
––3–5–7 15:00 17:45 PARIS (LV) ––3–5–7 18:30 21:15
–2–4––7 07:30 09:20 PISA (LZ) –2–4––7 10:20 12:00
–––4––7 07:50 08:40 PRISTINA (LZ) –––4––7 16:30 17:20
123–56– 13:30 14:20 PRISTINA (LZ) 123–56– 15:10 16:00
1234567 18:40 19:30 PRISTINA (LZ) 1234567 10:30 11:20
–2––––– 08:15 09:05 PRISTINA (LV) –2––––– 09:40 10:30
1–––––– 09:00 09:50 PRISTINA (LV) 1–––––– 10:05 11:15
–––4––– 13:45 14:35 PRISTINA (LV) –––4––– 15:10 16:00
–––––6– 19:30 20:20 PRISTINA (LV) ––––––7 06:55 07:45
1234567 09:00 09:30 PRISTINA (6Y) 1234567 15:10 15:40
1234567 12:00 12:30 PRISTINA (6Y) 1234567 18:00 18:30
1234567 06:00 07:25 ROME (AZ) 1234567 10:00 11:25
1234567 12:05 13:30 ROME (AZ) 1234567 22:00 23:25
1–3–––– 07:30 08:55 ROME (LZ) 1–3–––– 10:00 11:30
–2–4–67 12:10 13:35 ROME (LZ) –2–4–67 14:40 16:10
––––5–– 17:00 18:25 ROME (LZ) ––––5–– 19:45 21:00
1–––––– 05:00 06:20 ROME (LV) 1–––––– 07:30 09:00
––3––6– 09:00 10:20 ROME (LV) ––3––6– 11:30 13:00
–2––––– 03:45 06:35 SOFIA (FB) 1–––––– 17:30 18:40
––––5–– 11:20 13:59 SOFIA (FB) –––4––– 21:10 22:15
–––––6– 12:10 14:10 STUTTGART (LZ) –––––6– 15:50 17:50
–2––5–– 18:00 19:40 TRIESTE (LZ) –2––5–– 20:40 22:30
1–3–5–– 13:55 15:55 TURIN (LV) 1–3–5–– 16:55 18:55
––––––7 09:00 11:00 TURIN (LV) ––––––7 12:00 14:00
–2––––– 07:10 09:00 TURIN (LZ) –2––––– 10:00 11:50
––––––7 18:10 20:00 TURIN (LZ) –––––6– 21:00 22:50
1–3–5–– 05:00 06:35 VIENNA (OS) –2–4–6– 22:15 23:55
1234567 14:20 16:00 VIENNA (OS) 1234567 10:50 12:25
1–––5–– 12:10 14:10 ZURICH (LZ) 1–––5–– 15:50 17:50
––––5–– 13:45 15:45 ZURICH (LV) –––––6– 16:30 18:30
–––4––– 16:45 18:45 ZURICH (LV) –––4––– 19:30 21:30
This selected schedule is valid until March 2011, Always check flight times before departure. For the full schedule, see www.tirana.
inyourpocket.com. Airline codes: JP = Adria Airways; A3 = Aegean; LV = Albanian Airlines; AZ = Alitalia; OS = Austrian Airlines; LZ = Belle
Air; BA = British Airways; FB = Bulgarian Airlines; LH = Lufthansa; MA = Malev ; OP = Olympic Air ; 6Y = Tafa Air; TK = Turkish Airlines.
Flight schedule
Rr. Elbasanit, Nd. 10, H.5, Tirane, Albania, 1010
Tel / Fax: +3554 450 55 55, Mob: +355 67 20 34 267
42
GETTING AROUND
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
ai r- condi ti oni ng, or i n mi ni vans cal l ed furgons whi ch
may be a bi t cheaper and faster, but take ri sks i n
bl i nd corners.
Most bus departures are between early morning and early
afternoon. Only the most popular cities also have connec-
tions in the late afternoon too, so it’s best to set off early.
International buses often depart from behind the National
History Museum, where you’ll also find most of the ticket-
ing agencies. Buses to Durrës depart very regularly from
beside the train station. Buses to Shkodra depart nearby,
from Rruga Karl Gega.
Minibuses (furgons) depart as soon as they’re full, starting
from various places in town, sometimes trawling through the
streets to find more passengers to cram in. See the time-
table for approximate operating hours, prices and departure
points. It’s a good idea to ask around for the exact departure
locations before travel.
Furgons heading southeast for Elbasan, Pogradec and
Korça will most likely depart from beside the Qemal Stafa
stadium and trawl around on Rruga Elbasan. Those south to
Berat, Vlora, Gjirokastra and Saranda depart from Nëshërak
and Sheshi 21 Djetori, west of the centre. Those heading
to the north (Shkodra, Kukës, etc) leave from Sheshi Zogu
i Zi or from Laprak, one traffic light further along the Dur-
rës highway.
A very useful online furgon and bus schedule with departures
from Tirana can be found at http://www.matinic.us/albania/
furgon.php.
Lufthansa (LH) G-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Rog-
ner Europapark Hotel, tel. +355 4 223 50 28/+355
4 223 50 29, fax +355 4 223 50 26, tirana.office@
austrian.com, www.lufthansa.com. Flights to Munich.
Also at the airport: tel. +355 4 238 19 26, open 09:00-
17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-15:00. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Malev (MA) F-5, Rr. Abdi Toptani, Torre Drin Centre,
tel. +355 4 222 79 00, fax +355 4 223 45 78, info@
sarakotravel.com, www.sarakotravel.com. Fl i ghts
to Budapest. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
Olympic Airways (OA) D-4, Blv. Zog I, Veve Business
Centre, tel. +355 4 222 89 60, www.olympic-airways.
com. Flights to Athens. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 13:00.
Turkish Airlines (TK) E-4, Sheshi Skenderbej, Tirana
International Hotel, tel. +355 4 223 49 02/+355 4 222
89 60, fax +355 4 222 89 61, www.turkishairlines.
com. Flights to Istanbul. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Sat 08:30
- 15:00. Closed Sun.
Long-distance buses
Despi te the i mportance of bus travel i n Al bani a, Ti rana
has no bus stati on and few schedul ed depar tures, so
i t’s al l a bi t of a Bal kan mess. Bus transpor t i s ei ther
i n normal buses, i ncreasi ngl y comfor tabl e and wi th
From Tirana
City First-last bus + frequency, or times Duration Price Departs from:
BAJRAM CURRI 06:00 - 14:00 6 hrs 1000 lek Zogu i Zi
BERAT 06:30-18:00, twice hourly 2 hrs 400 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori
DURRËS 06:00-19:00, twice hourly 40 min 150 lek Train station
ELBASAN 07:00 - 17:00 twice hourly 1.5 hrs 300 lek Rruga Elbasanit
FIER 06:00-17:00, twice hourly 2 hrs 400 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori
GJIROKASTRA 05:00-18:30 4 hrs 800 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori
PESHKOPI 06:00-14:00 5 hrs 800 lek Laprak, one traffic light beyond Zogu I Zi
POGRADEC 07:00 - 16:00 hourly 3 hrs 500 lek Qemal Stafa Stadium, Enonomic faculty
KORCA 07:00 - 16:00 hourly 4 hrs 600 lek Qemal Stafa Stadium
KRUJA 07:00, 10:00, 12:00, 15:00, 18:00 45 min 150 lek Zogu i Zi
PERMET 06:30, 14:00 4 hrs 500 lek Nëshërak
SARANDA 04:00, 05:15, 07:00, 08:30,
09:30, 16:00, 22:00
7 hrs 1200 lek Nëshërak
SHKODRA 07:00-16:00, hourly 2 hrs 300 lek Train station / Zogu i ZI
KUKES 06:00 - 16:00 2 hrs 8000 lek Zogu i Zi
VLORA 05:30-16:30, twice hourly 3 hrs 500 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori
Approximate times only, inform locally for more details. For Himare and the Riviera coast, change buses at Vlora.
Furgon (minibus) schedule
From Tirana To Tirana
Departure Arrival City Dep. Arr. Company From Price (one way)
15:30 06:30 ATHENS 08:00 20:00 Interlines Blv Zog I €25
04:00 19:00 ATHENS 09:00 21:00 Interlines Blv Zog I €25
08:00 20:00 ATHENS 20:00 08:00 Drita Museum €35
18:00 05:00 PEJA 06:00 17:00 Sondor Museum €20
18:00 05:00 PRISTINA 06:00 17:00 Sondor Museum €20
18:00 05:00 PRISTINA 06:00 17:00 Monopol Museum €20
18:00 06:00 PRISTINA 06:00 17:00 Drita Museum €20
08:00 19:00 THESSALONIKI 19:00 08:00 Drita Museum €25
18:00 05:00 SKOPJE 18:00 05:00 Sondor Museum €20
21:00 05:00 TETOVO 21:00 05:00 Sondor Museum €20
Check all times before travelling.
International bus schedule
44
GETTING AROUND
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
Balkania & Albania Interlines D-4, Blv. Zogu I, tel.
+355 4222 22 72, albania.interlines@hotmail.com,
www.albinterlines.webs.com. Buses from Shkodra via
Tirana to Athens. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.
Drita E-4, Rr. Ded Gjon Luli, tel. +355 4 225 12 77,
eurodrita@yahoo.com, www.dritatravel.com. Buses to
Pristina, Athens and Thessaloniki. The first bus agency to
have a website and online booking. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
EuroInterlines D-4, Blv. Zogu I, 39, tel. +355 4 225
18 66, eurointerlines39@ymail.com. Buses to Greece.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Sondor E-4, Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 222 50 63/+355
69 239 49 29, info@sondortravel.com, www.sondor-
travel.com. Buses to Kosovo, Macedonia and Montenegro.
QOpen 08:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun.
Tirana Metropol E-4, Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 225 36
39/+355 69 284 72 01, tirana-metropol@live.com.
Buses to Kosovo (Pristina office tel. 044 614 814, Peja office
tel. 044 68 38 78). QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Car rental
Lack of parking space, signs and general discipline makes driving in
Tirana adventurous, but despite the apparent chaos traffic doesn’t
really move very fast. When parking, beware of Tirana’s new and
effective tow-trucks. The only central parking garage can be found
below the Vesa Center on Rruga Abdyl Frashëri. Petrol costs about
165 lek per litre, diesel 160 lek per litre. Renting a car costs from
around €45 per day for the cheapest model. The agencies
have desks at the airport, but these are often only manned on
demand, so inform them in advance. Make sure you have the
agency helpline number and a good map before setting off.
Avis H-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Rogner Europapark
Hotel, tel. +355 4 223 50 11, fax +355 4 227 19 60,
avis@avis.al, www.avis.al. Avis operates a fleet of Opel
and Chevrolet vehicles. Also at the airport. QOpen 08:30 -
19:00, Sun 08:30 - 14:00. Also at Hotel Sheraton (tel. 26 63
89/068 20 55 806, open 08:30 - 18:30, Sun 08:30 - 14:00)
and the airport (tel. 068 20 55 807). A
Budget H-6, Rr. Elbasanit, Nd. 10, H.5, tel./fax +355
4 450 55 55, tel. +355 67 203 42 67, reservation@
budget.al, www.budget.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Europcar E-5, Rr. Durrësit 61, tel. +355 4 222 78
88/+355 68 209 39 22, fax +355 4 224 65 11, eu-
ropcar@abissnet.com, www.europcar.com. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Hertz E- 4, Sheshi Skënderbej, Tirana International
Hotel, tel. +355 4 226 25 11/+355 69 205 87 75,
hertz@albaniaonline.net, www.hertz.com. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. Also at the airport, open
08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 16:00.
Lumani F-5, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Rogner Hotel
Europapark, tel. +355 4 223 50 21/+355 68 409
58 75, office@lumani-enterprise.com, www.lumani-
enterprise.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Noshi Rent a Car D/E-3, Rr. Durrësit 79, tel. +355 4 240
03 00/+355 69 203 78 24, reservations@noshi.al, www.
noshi.al. Budget rental of Chevrolet, Opel, Hyundai and Mitsubishi
cars. Small cars from €100 per weekend. Facebook fans get 10%
off for short rentals. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
Sixt E-3, Rr. Kavajës 116, tel. +355 4 225 90 20,
www.e-sixt.com. Also at the airport (tel. +355 69 206 85
00). QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Tirana Car Rentals (TCR) I-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4
Shkurtit, P. 11, Sh. 4, tel. +355 4 224 05 11/+355 69
205 10 72, info@tirana-car-rentals.com, www.tirana-car-
rentals.com. Local car rental agency with offices in various
cities. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
A selection of reader’s comments from the Tirana In Your
Pocket website. You too can add your opinion, below
every review on www.tirana.inyourpocket.com.
Irish Bar
Nice place, nice music, nice people.
Viola - Italy
Wine Spirit
Wine Spirit has become my expat haunt. Excellent food
from a first-class chef, and the perfect combination of
spirits both intellectual and alcoholic! An absolute must
on the regular nights’ out list!
Lori - USA
Charl’s Bistro
Simply the best. We had a ball and judging by the exuber-
ant crowds Charl’s was making a lot of people happy.
Eva Agolli - Danbury CT, USA
Orthodox Cathedral
The modern style is a tragedy in the making. The only part
of the new cathedral worth anything is the great dome
from the interior. I hope that mosaic decoration will be
used along with carved marble to add as much quality
to the interior finishes as is possible.
Danny - New York, USA
Bonaparte
It has a nice and warmly ambience. But it’s a pity that
smoking is allowed. Emily - Tirana
The ham was of superior quality. Next time with my friend
Alvaro we will go again since they serve tapas there. It’s
a pity they don’t have Spanish wine!
Silvia - Barcelona, Spain
Serendipity
My favourite place. They make the best tapas in Albania!
Do not forget to try the Eros Pizza. Alda - Tirana
Rockwood
A great place, in a nice area, beautiful people.
Anton - Tirana
Istanbul
The food is delicious, and the atmosphere is nice and
peaceful. I strongly recommend the excellent desserts!
Munife Danaci, Turkey
Era
Garzi the camp waiter provides excellent and friendly
service, food is good and inexpensive. Tony - England
A great and very busy restaurant in a very hip neighbor-
hood. Great food and friendly staff. Strongly recommend.
David De Mille - Las Vegas
Lollipop
Looooooooooooooooooove it! Thanks for many many
MANY great evenings!
Anke - Belgium
TIYP
I like your site, Tirana In Your Pocket!
Pat Williams - MA, USA
What you said
46
GETTING AROUND
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
Public transport
Tirana has a few bus lines, marked on the map in this guide.
A ticket costs 30 lek per ride regardless of distance, to
be paid to the conductor on board. Buses run every 6-15
minutes between 05:00 and 22:00. The days of dilapidated
old state buses conking out in the middle of the road are
over - Tirana has a fleet of privately-run buses, dipped liber-
ally in advertising.
Bike rental
On quiet weekends, cycling around Tirana is a delight. Both
the Tirana Backpacker Hostel (1,000 lek per day) and Hostel
Albania have bikes that are for rent. The Tirana Backpacker
Hostel also offers guided bike day trips to Mount Dajti.
Taxis
Taxis are a useful form of transport in Tirana, and after
22:00, they’re the only game in town. Several companies
use meters and can print receipts; our experience so far
is that drivers do not have to be reminded to use them.
Rates start at 300 lek for the first 2km (sufficient for most
city centre trips) and 95 lek/km after that (count on paying
500-700 lek for a ride to the outskirts). Between 22:00 and
07:00 the flagfall is 350 lek. Few drivers speak English,
so it’s a good idea to write down the address, or to call
someone who can explain.
ATEX (Airport Express Taxi) Rr. Mine Peza 2, tel.
+355 67 208 01 91/+355 67 200 88 73, lisejda.bosh-
njaku@atex.com, www.atex.al. Taxis to/from the airport
for 2,000 lek, or 2,500 lek between 21:00 and 07:00. Online
booking (in Albanian) possible.
Radio Taxi Rr. Myslym shyri, tel. +355 4 224 44
44/+355 68 224 44 44, taxikorrekt@hotmail.com.
Tirana Taxi Rr. e Saracëve, Te Selvia, tel. +355 68
212 55 75/+355 68 605 55 31.
Trains
Albania’s railway network is basic and slow, and has no
services to neighbouring countries. Unless you’re a train fan,
taking a bus is faster and more comfortable, though the run
to Durrës is perfectly bearable.
Train station B-4, Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 225 10 94.
Tirana’s train station is a basic metal and concrete shed next
to the dusty Durrës bus parking lot. Tickets can be bought
just before departure. There’s no left luggage office.
Travel agents
Tirana’s travel agents can arrange everything from plane
tickets to hotel bookings, car rental and tours.
Albania Experience J-5, Sheshi Italia, Sheraton
Hotel, tel./fax +355 4 227 20 55, alexperience@alba-
niaonline.net, www.albania-experience.al. Guided city
tours, daytrips to Apolonia, Berat, Durrës, Kruja and other
destinations, and plane tickets. AE can also book top-end
Tirana hotels at big discounts. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Sat
08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A
Albania Holidays Rr. Sami Frasheri, Pall. 20, shk.1
Apt.8, tel. +355 4 223 56 88, fax +355 4 223 54
98, contact@albania- holidays.com, www.albania-
holidays.com. Runs the www.albania-hotel.com hotel
booking website. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun.
Albtours H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, tel. +355 4
225 33 43, fax +355 4 225 33 42, albtours@albania-
online.net. Near the Sky Tower, also at Rr. Mine Peza 102.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
ATHS E-3, Sheshi Skënderbej, Tirana International
Hotel, tel. +355 4 223 24 24, www.plazh.com. Also
at Librit Universitar,Rr. A Frashëri, Tiranë.Tel: 04-224-0955
Blv. Kryesor,Durrës.Tel: 05-222-2621 QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
Gulliver OK D-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 34/1, tel. +355 4
222 76 26/+355 67 205 11 40 (airport), info@gulliver-
ok.com, www.gulliver-ok.com. Travel agent with offices
in Tirana’s city centre and airport; also runs an agency and
the local tourism office in Korça. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
Magic Tours D- 4, Blv. Zogu I, 72, Veve Business
Center, tel./fax +355 4 222 89 87, tel. +355 69 203
28 90, magictours@albmail.com, www.magictours-al.
com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Outdoor Albania H-5/6, Rr. Sami Frashëri, Qendra
Metropol, Pall. Vortek, tel./fax +355 4 222 71 21,
Info@outdooralbania.com, www.outdooralbania.com.
Tailor-made tours with activities such as trekking, mountain
biking, rafting, kayaking, mountaineering, paragliding and
4WD trips. Daytrips in the mountains near Tirana too. In
winter, activities are limited to snowshoeing and hiking.
See also their booking site www.travel-tirana.com. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
aeroplane avion
ferry traget
airport aeroport
car veture, makinë
train tren
bus autobus
station (train, bus) stacion (tren, autobus)
Is it far? A është Iarg?
left majtas
right djathas
where am I? ku jam?
Travel terms
From Tirana To Tirana To Tirana
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr. Price
05:30 06:27 DURRËS 06:15 07:15 70 lek
DURRËS 08:45 09:45 70 lek
08:30 09:31 DURRËS 09:20 10:20 70 lek
14:10 15:07 DURRËS 13:05 14:04 70 lek
15:25 16:23 DURRËS 17:01 70 lek
16:30 17:27 DURRËS 16:45 17:43 70 lek
19:55 20:48 DURRËS 20:05 21:05 70 lek
14:10 18:20 ELBASAN 05:40 09:55 190 lek
05:30 13:10 POGRADEC 12:50 19:35 295 lek
13:15 16:50 SHKODRA 05:40 08:30 145 lek
16:25 22:15 VLORA 04:30 10:25 250 lek
Timetable and prices correct at time of publication; check
all details in advance.
Train schedule
€1 = 140 lek, £1 = 166 lek,
US$1 = 103 lek (Feb 5, 2011)
visit: www.kosovo-young.com
48
MAIL & PHONES
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
49
Spring/Summer 2011 tirana.inyourpocket.com
MAIL & PHONES
Post
Central Post office F-4, Rr. Çameria, tel. +355 4 222
62 82, www.postashqiptare.al. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
(08:00 - 13:00 for parcels).
Express mail
The safest, though not the cheapest, way to send valuable
or urgent items.
Albanian Courier Tirana- Durrës highway, Salloni
Mazda, tel. +355 4 235 79 76, info@albaniancourier.
com, www.albaniancourier.al. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
DHL E- 4, Tiranë-Durrës highway, km 8, tel. +355 4
222 76 67, dhlalbania@dhl.com, www.dhl.com. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
EMS F-4, Rr.Reshit Çollaku 4,, tel. +355 4 225 88 28,
fax +355 4 225 97 70, posta@postashqiptare.al, www.
postashqiptare.al. QOpen 08:00 - 13:00.
FedEx F-6, Blv. Zogu i Parë, Veve Business Center,
tel. +355 4 225 32 03/+355 4 223 50 56, fax +355 4
225 36 30, ulysses-fedex@icc-al.org, www.fedex.com/
al. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
TNT E-4, Rr. Mine Peza 2, tel. +355 4 223 49 14, fax
+355 4 223 54 89, tntalbania@yahoo.com, www.tnt.
com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
UPS H-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 32/1, tel. +355 4 225 97
42, fax +355 4 225 97 43, aloperations@unitrans.
com.al, www.ups.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sat 09:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun.
Telephone calls
International calls
Dial the international access number (00), the country code,
the area code and the subscriber’s number. Call 124 for
directory assistance.
National calls
For calls outside Tirana, dial 0, the city code and the sub-
scriber’s number. Call 14 for domestic directory assistance.
Local calls
Tirana numbers have seven digits, all starting with a 2 or a 3.
Calling Albania from abroad
Dial the country code (355), then the city code (Tirana is 4)
or the mobile phone number without the initial zero.
Mobile phones
Four providers are active in Albania. AMC numbers start
with 068, Eagle Mobile numbers with 067, Plus with 066
and Vodafone numbers with 069. You can easily purchase
pre-paid SIM cards for around 600 lek at the providers’
Berat 32
Durrës 52
Elbasan 54
Fier 34
Gjirokastra 84
Kavaja 554
Korça 82
Kruja 511
Kuçova 33
Kukës 24
Laç 30
Lezha 36
Librazhdi 353
Lushnjë 35
Peqin 512
Përmet 813
Peshkopi 373
Pogradec 832
Saranda 85
Shijak 571
Shkodra 22
Tepelena 814
Tirana 4
Vlora 47
Albanian telephone codes
shops; you’ll need ID and a local address (which can be that
of your hotel). Recharge cards are widely available across
the country. National rates for pre-paid calls are between
30-55 lek per minute.
AMC (Albanian Mobile Communications) G/H-4,
Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Sky Tower, tel. +355 4
227 50 00, fax +355 4 227 52 43, contact_us@amc.
al, www.amc.al. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00.
Eagle Mobile H-4, Rr. Murat Toptani 12, tel. +355 4
229 01 00, fax +355 4 229 01 90, info@eaglemobile.
al, www.eaglemobile.al. Also at Rr. Myslim Shyri 6 and
at the airport,
Plus H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, tel. +355 4 450
15 00, info@plus.al, www.plus.al.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Vodafone H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, N°5, tel.
+355 4 228 32 01/+355 69 222 01 11, www.vodafone.
al. Also at the airport. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00.
Public telephones
Some pay phones do work, but those at hotels and post
offices often work better. Telephone cards are available at
post offices. 50 unit cards cost 560 lek; 100 units 980 lek;
200 units 1800 lek. New cards should be wrapped in clear
plastic. People on the street also sell cards; beware that
you’ll likely be paying more. Don’t let them get away until
you have verified the card at a public telephone. If you don’t
plan to talk away a whole card, you can rent one from the
‘businessmen’ lingering near the phone boxes. Prices will
run about 15-20 lek per unit.
Internet cafés
Free wi fi is i ncreasi ngl y common i n ci ty-centre cafés,
restaurants and hotel l obbi es such as the Rogner. I t’s
also availabl e free at the airport. In the internet cafés
li sted bel ow, expect to pay 100-150 l ek per hour for
i nternet access (and pl enty of noi se from l i ttl e boys
playing Counterstrike).
Global I-4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi 13, tel. +355 4 225 63
06, e-gl0bal@hotmail.com, www.e-global.com. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00.
Albania 355
Australia 61
Austria 43
Belarus 375
Belgium 32
Bulgaria 359
Croatia 385
Czech Rep. 420
Denmark 45
Estonia 372
Finland 358
France 33
Germany 49
Greece 30
Hungary 36
Ireland 353
Israel 972
Italy 39
Japan 81
Kosovo 381
Latvia 371
Lithuania 370
Moldova 373
Montenegro 382
Netherlands 31
Norway 47
Poland 48
Portugal 351
Romania 40
Russia 7
Serbia 381
Slovakia 421
Slovenia 386
Spain 34
Sweden 46
Switzerland 41
Turkey 90
UK 44
Ukraine 380
USA 1
Country codes
Net 1I-4, Rr. Nikolla Tupe 1b. Good internet club with 24 comput-
ers. The club also offers a cinema where DVD movies are screened.
Top-Net H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 67 219 03 39.
Basement internet café with helpful staff and a bar. QOpen
08:30 - 04:00.
Internet providers
ABCOM Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Kompleksi Green
Park, Kulla 2, Kati II, tel. +355 4 450 01 39, info@
abcom.al, www.abcom.al. Broadband internet, data
transmission, VPN, wi fi, hosting, e-mail solutions, digital
cable TV and telephony services.
Abissnet Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 4 225 60 01, fax
+355 4 225 60 02, info@abissnet.al, www.abissnet.al.
Ada Net Rr. Dervish Hima 1, tel. +355 4 560 06 24,
support@adanet.com.al, www.adanet.com.al. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.
Albania Online Rr. Donika Kastrioti 4, tel. +355 4 225
11 22, fax +355 4 225 11 33, www.albaniaonline.net.
Primo Rr. Donika Kastrioti 4, tel. +355 4 240 0123,
fax +355 4 225 11 33, sales@primo.al, www.primo.al.
Tring Communications Rr. Don Bosko, Tower 6, tel.
+355 4 480 00 00, fax +355 4 480 00 01, info@tring.
al, www.tring.al.
di të në javë në shërbi mi n tuaj 7
Shër bi me t ë s hpej t a pos t ar e
Dorëzojmë kudo dhe në kohë: Dokumente, Pako, Dhurata, Fatura, Ftesa, Kartolina ...
Këto dhe shumë shërbime të tjera në të gjitha agjencitë:
Tel: +355 (4) 2357 976/152/149, Mob: 068 4000660/069 4000660/067 2000660, Fax: +355 (4) 357 977
E-mail: albanian.courier@albaniancourier.al, www.albaniancourier.al
Dërgesa Ekspres në Gjithë Botën
• Shërbim postar derë më derë Brenda 24 orëve
• Avion i dedikuar çdo ditë
• Shërbime dhe opsione të shumëllojshme
• Ndjekje e pakos dhe dorëzim online
Rr. “Ismail Qemali”,
Nr. 32/1
Tiranë, Albania.
Tel .: 04 22 59 742
Mob.: 067 20 48 904
068 20 48 904
069 20 48 904
aloperations@unitrans.com.al
Postal rates for postcards/letters (under 20gr) are:
Albania 20 lek
Europe 40 lek
Elsewhere 60 lek
Post rates
This spring, IYP will launch the very first iPhone city guide
in Albania, when the new Tirana In Your Pocket app
becomes available in the Apple online store. Browse
through the full guide, view maps online and offline, and
let your phone guide you to any reviewed place using GPS.
Tirana IYP iPhone app
50
SHOPPING
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
51
SHOPPING
Spring/Summer 2011 tirana.inyourpocket.com
of books on Albania (or on anything else) in English. Lots of
magazines as well. Also at the airport, in both the main hall
and departures. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Corona E- 4, Sheshi Skenderbej, Tirana International
Hotel, tel. +355 69 217 73 05. The hotel gi ft shop has
a good selection of newspapers, magazines and books
on Albania, and souvenirs too. QOpen 09:30 - 20:30.
Closed Sun.
Friend’s Book House G-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel.
+355 4 226 67 77, friendbookhouse@yahoo.com. More
café than bookstore, the collection here is mainly Albanian
though some English titles can be found too. QOpen 24 hrs.
Libraria Albania H-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4
227 17 49, www.albaniabook.com. A local bookshop
with a selection of English-language magazines and Albania-
related books. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Shtepia e Librit D-4, Rr. Barrikadave, Galeria Nasional
mall, tel. +355 4 450 32 62, admin@shtepiaelibrit.com,
www.shtepiaelibrit.com. Tirana’s newest book store, with
a small but growing selection of English titles. On the first
floor of the new Galeria Nasional shopping centre. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00.
DIY
Praktiker Shkodra highway km 4, Pranë Urë Kamëz,
tel. +355 4 238 84 50, www.praktiker.al. Albania’s
first large DIY market also stocks useful things for travel-
lers. Free shuttle bus from Tirana’s main square. QOpen
08:30 - 21:00.
Much to the delight of locals and foreigners alike,
Tirana has been enriched with several malls or smaller
shopping galleries over the past years. The QTU centre
along the Durres highway was the first in 2005, and
several city-centre and peripheral malls have followed.
Citypark Albania Tirana-Durrës highway, km 8,
tel. +355 4 237 64 24, www.cityparkalbania.com.
Albania’s largest shopping centre has some 180 shops,
a Mercator hypermarket, food court, a 550 square metre
skating rink, Cartoonland, entertainment and events.
Just beyond the airport turn-off.
Coin H-5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, ABA Business Cen-
ter, www.coin.al. Brand new Italian department store
with fashion and home appliances.
Galeria Mall G-5, Blv. Bajram Curri, tel. +355 4
225 41 00. Housed in the European Trade Centre build-
ing behind the pyramid, the Galeria mall has 50 shops,
bars and cafés in a pleasantly air-conditioned four-floor
complex. There’s a supermarket on the ground floor.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Kristal Center Rr. Frang Bardhi, tel. +355 4 480
10 28, info@kristalcenter.com, www.kristalcenter.
com. A modern shopping centre with a Conad supermar-
ket and a cinema complex. Free shuttle bus from Sheshi
Skenderbeg square. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
QTU (Qendra Tregtare Univers) Tirana-Durrës
highway, km 6, tel. +355 38 01 00, www.qtu-al.com.
The QTU shopping centre has a supermarket, electronics
store and a shuttle bus from the National Museum. The
small QTU City mall can be found on Rruga Abdyl Frashëri.
Q Open Apr-Sept 09:00-22:00, Oct-Mar 09:00-21:00. A
Sheraton Plaza J-5, Sheshi Italia. The mall attached
to the Sheraton hotel has a café, a food court, a good little
supermarket and several upmarket shops.
Shopping centres
New expat arrivals and any stray foreigners that find
themselves wandering Tirana are welcome to mingle
with Tirana’s small but active group of expats.
Internations
The www.internations.org social network site has oc-
casional expat meet-ups and activities in Tirana.
King House Dinner Night
Every Friday, there’s an informal Tirana expat dinner at
King House, from 19:30 till late. King House serves food
for those who are hungry, or just drinks for those who
aren’t. All are welcome to drop by.
Tirana Dinner Club
Every Wednesday, a group of expats chooses a different
restaurant to eat at. Send an email to tiranadinner@
gmail.com to get on the mailing list.
Tirana Hash
Every Saturday the family-friendly Tirana Hash (10-70
Albanians and expats) meets at 11:30 for a relaxed to
strenuous walk or run somewhere near Tirana, inevitably
followed by relaxed to strenuous drinking and late lunch
session at the Chicken Shack or elsewhere. See www.
tiranahash.com of Facebook for more information. Ev-
erybody welcome, transport for the car-less is arranged
on the spot.
Tirana International Women’s Group
Join the TWIG ladies for their monthly meetings, charity
events and activities including yoga, painting, bowling
and tea sessions. See http://sites.google.com/site/
twigtirana/home for more information or email to twig-
board@gmail.com.
Expat activities
Electronics
Molla G/H-4, Blv. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Sky Tower,
tel. +355 69 202 90 58, info@apple-albania.com. Al-
bania’s only Apple shop (guess what molla means) can be
found inside the Sky Tower. Sales and repairs of all Apple
products. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Fashion
Benetton G-5, Blv. Bajram Curri, Galeria mall. Italian fash-
ion for both sexes. QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.
Il Cammino G-3, Rr. Myslym Shyri 64. Shoe boutique.
Also on Rr. Kavajës 20 and Rr. Abdyl Frashëri 6.
Nino Vitali F/G-3, Rr. Myslym Shyri, tel. +355 4 227
44 70. Q Open 09:00-14:30, 18:00-21:30.
X-Large G-4, Bul. Bajram Curri, Pallatet Agimi, tel.
+355 4 225 02 18. Boutique with women’s fashion. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Flowers
Kaktus I-4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 69 204 96 54.
Imported flowers and luxury bouquets. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.
Merkom E-3, Rr. Kavajës, tel. +355 4 225 47 70. Next
to Samsung. Also delivers flowers. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30.
Natyra H-5/6, Rr. Elbasanit, tel. +355 4 223 06 16.
Flowers from Greece arrive three times a week. Good for
colourful, custom-made bouquets. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Souvenirs & Gifts
The best souvenir shopping is north of Tirana in Kruja, where
shop windows are full of jewelry, antiques and knickknacks.
If you don’t have time to make the trek there, check these
shops in Tirana. There are also some kiosks selling Albania
mugs, plastic guns, dolls and bunker ashtrays at the southern
end of Rr. Barrikadave.
Art Forever G/H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha 99, tel. +355 4
224 63 86. I f you’re looking for folk costumes, antique
chests, wood carvings, or old books, check out this one-
man show. Near the corner with Blv. Bajram Curri. QOpen
10:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Le Futur H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 4 223 27 68,
www.lefutur.al. Dozens of crazy novelty gi fts, between
300-4,000 lek. Everything from desktop rocket launch instal-
lations to wallets made from South African licence plates.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Pirro Souvenirs I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, tel. +355 4
222 55 87. A good selection of handicrafts and souvenirs;
Albanian flags,keyrings and T-shirts, and must-have mugs
depicting Enver Hoxha, King Zog and Mother Teresa among
others. Also on Rr.e Durrësit. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Speciality shops
La Casa del Habano J-5, Sheshi Italia, Sheraton mall,
tel. +355 68 416 63 37, www.kalimancaribe.com. The
only place in the country to buy, and try, quality Habanos,
Cohiba and Monte Cristo cigars. Deluxe smokers’ acces-
sories and a small whiskey bar too. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Supermarkets
Conad G-5, Blv. Bajram Curri, Galeria mall, tel. +355
4 227 01 74. A supermarket chain that (incredibly) ships
everything from Italy - even the fruit and veg. There’s a decent
selection meats and cheeses. Also at (I-3) Rr. A.Z. Çajupi.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
BOOKS, NEWSPAPERS
MAGAZINES
GIFTS AND SOUVENIRS
CORONA
Sheshi Skenderbej
Tirana International Hotel
Tel. +355 69 217 73 05
The ladies love Tirana. You may be surprised, but the city is
actually a great shopping destination. The city centre is small
and you can easily walk everywhere, and without exception
the staff is friendly and reasonably competent. Especially
shoe shopping is good; they’re cheap (around 30% less
than in other European cities), most are of Italian quality,
and there’s great variety. For clothes the story is slightly
di fferent, as not all international brands are represented
yet. Shopping is still best in the established areas such as in
the bllok district and along Rruga Myslym Shyri where you’ll
find many boutiques; you’re more likely to find bargains and
groovy stuff there than in the malls.
Art Galleries
Galeria Te & Gi D-2/3, Rr. Durrësit 144a, tel. +355
4 223 04 16, tegigallery@albmail.com. Tirana’s first
gallery, located in a strange modern building, is still going
strong, selling traditional, abstract and modern paintings,
including some very nice landscapes. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00,
16:00-20:00. Open 09:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00.
Books
Tirana has a number of shops selling English literature, but
the selection isn’t great so bring fodder from abroad if you
want to read something specific while you’re here. Foreign
magazines and newspapers can be found at the Adrion shop
or at their stands in the Xheko Imperial and Sheraton hotel
(at the Albanian Experience travel agency office). The Rogner
hotel lobby bar has foreign newspapers available for reading.
Adrion International Books E-4, Sheshi Skënderbej,
Palace of Culture, tel. +355 4 222 62 56, books@
adrionltd.com, www.adrionltd.com. The best selection
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Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
53
DIRECTORY
Spring/Summer 2011 tirana.inyourpocket.com
Business services
ACMS (Albanian Center for Management Ser-
vices) H-5, Rr. Gjon Pali II, 11/1, tel. +355 4 225 56
55/+355 4 225 76 05, fax +355 4 22719 60, info@
cmsalbania.com, www.cmsalbania.com. Trai ni ng,
executive search, consulting, auditing and other business
services.
Albanian Business Network Rr.Sami Frashëri,
tel. +355 68 385 95 50, contact@al-bn.com, www.
al-bn.com. A networking organisation and business club
for professionals, businesses and investors interested
in Al bania.
National Registration Centre (Qendra Kombëtare
e Regjistrimit) Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 4 225 00
66, fax +355 4 225 55 32, info@qkr.gov.al, www.qkr.
gov.al. The NRC is the one-stop-shop for business registra-
tions in Albania. QOpen 08:30 - 14:00, Fri 08:30 - 13:30.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Chambers of Commerce
American Chamber of Commerce H-4, Blv. Dësh-
morët e 4 Shkurtit, Sky Tower 11/3, tel. +355 4 225
97 79, fax +355 4 223 53 50, info@amcham.com.al,
www.amcham.com.al.
British Chamber of Commerce & Industry Blv.
Petro Nini Luarasi 58, tel. +355 4 234 10 20, fax +355
4 237 98 85, info@abcci.com, www.abcci.com.
Tirana Chamber of Commerce & Industry E-3, Rr.
Kavajës 6, tel. +355 4 223 02 84, fax +355 4 222 79
97, info@cci.al, www.cci.al.
Computers
Computer & Copier System (CCS) I-3, Rr. Sulej-
man Delvina pranë Stadiumit Dinamo, tel. +355 4 225
90 04/5, fax +355 4 223 55 77, info@ccs-albania.
com, www.ccs-albania.com. Sells PCs, copy machines,
software and hardware. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00, Fri 08:30 -
16:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Infosoft Group (Gjergji Centre) F-5, Rr. Murat Top-
tani, Gjergji Centre, tel. +355 4 225 11 80, fax +355
4 223 29 90, www.infosoftgroup.com.al. Hardware,
software, service provider. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Dentists
In Albanian, ‘dental clinic’ is ‘klinika dentare’. Easy. Now
floss.
Ledismile Dental Clinic Rr. Irfan Tomini, pall. Alfa,
Shk.1, Ap.1, tel. +355 4 232 07 72/+355 69 406 60
00, ledismile@yahoo.com, www.ledismile.com. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Prodent F-1, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, Pall. Hekla, Kati
3, tel. +355 4 227 01 25, arkonda@yahoo.com. Q
Open 08:30 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
Tirana Centre G-3, Rr. Bardhok Biba, Pallati i Kada-
rese, k.2, tel. +355 4 225 74 46/+355 4 223 15 64,
info@cosmeticdent-al.com, www.cosmeticdent-al.
com. Near Albanian Telecom. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
UFO Clinic F-2, Rr. Kavajës,Pallati 3, Shk 7, tel. +355
4 224 00 28, fax +355 4 224 16 87. Who wouldn’t like
their dental work done by Martians? Behind the Central
Bank building. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun.
Dry cleaners
Fast Clean D-4, Rr. Komuna e Parisit, tel. +355 4 223
74 14. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Pastrim Kimik I-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4 223
29 76. The best dry-cleaning in Tirana. Fast service, good
prices. Below the ProCredit Bank. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00,
Sun 07:00 - 15:00.
Embassies
Many of Tirana’s embassies and consulates can be found
along Rruga Skënderbej, and in the area just east of the
stadium. It’s highly advisable to phone in advance to check
the opening times or to make an appointment. The open-
ing times listed here refer to the working hours of the visa/
visitor departments.
Austria E/F-2, Rr. Frederik Shiroka 3, tel. +355 4 227
48 55, fax +355 4 223 3140, tirana-ob@bmeia.gv.at,
www.bmeia.gv.at. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Bulgaria E-2, Rr. Skënderbej 12, tel. +355 4 223 31
55, fax +355 4 223 22 72, bgemb-alb@afb.net.al, www.
mfa.bg. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.
China E-2, Rr. Skënderbej 57, tel. +355 4 223 23 85,
fax +355 4 223 31 59, chinaemb_al@mfa.gov.cn,
al.chineseembassy.org.al. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sun.
Croatia F-5, Rr. Abdi Topani, Torre Drin centre, tel.
+355 4 222 83 90/+355 4 225 69 48, fax +355 4 223
05 78, croemb.tirana@mvpei.hr, www.mvpei.hr. QOpen
08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Czech Republic E-2, Rr. Skënderbej 10, tel. +355 4
223 40 04/+355 4 223 21 17, fax +355 4 223 21 59,
tirana@embassy.mzv.cz, www.mzv.cz/tirana. QOpen
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
BEYOND COMMUNI CATI ON
ICEBERG COMMUNICATION
Rr. "Perlat Rexhepi", Pall."Edil-al", Nr. 1
Tirana, Albania
Tel.&Fax: +355 4 2267681
Mob: +355 69 20 62050
contact@icebergcommunication.com
www.icebergcommunication.com
International Commercial Bank Rr. Murat Top-
tani, Qendra Eurokol, Kati 7, tel. +355 4 225 43
72/2256254, fax +355 4 225 43 68, info@icbank-
albania.com, www.icbanking.com. QOpen 08:00 -
15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Intesa Sanpaolo Bank Rr. Ismail Qemali 27, tel. +355
4 227 60 00, fax +355 4 224 87 62, info@intesasan-
paolobank.al, www.intesasanpaolobank.al. QOpen
08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
National Bank of Greece Rr e Durrësit, Godina
Comfort, tel. +355 4 228 00 00, fax +355 4 223 36
13, nbgalbania@icc-al.org, www.nbg.gr. QOpen 08:00
- 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
ProCredit Bank I-3, Rr. Dritan Hoxha, Laprakë, tel.
+355 4 238 93 00, fax +355 4 223 39 18, info@pro-
creditbank.com.al, www.procreditbank.com.al. At the
southern end of the street. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. On saturday big branches are open, 8:00 -13:00,
others from 08:00 -12:00
Raiffeisen Bank Blv. Bajram Curri, ETC, tel. +355
4 238 13 81, fax +355 4 224 79 12, info@raiffeisen.
al, www.raiffeisen.al. QOpen 08:30 - 15:30, Sat 09:00
- 12:30. Closed Sun.
Société Générale Albania Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit,
Twin Towers, Kulla 1, Kati 9, tel. +355 4 228 04 42,
fax +355 4 228 04 41, bp.info@socgen.com, www.
societegenerale.al. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 -
13:00. Closed Sun.
Tirana Bank Blv. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, P.O Box:
2400/1, tel. +355 4 226 96 17/8/+355 4 227 77
00, fax +355 4 226 30 22, info@tiranabank.al, www.
tiranabank.al. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Union Bank Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 225 06 53, fax
+355 4 226 21 83, info@unionbank.al, www.unionbank.
al. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
From foreign representations to high-finance, from
dentists to American libraries: the Tirana In Your Pocket
directory is your one stop shop for names and numbers.
Offices usually work from 08:00-16:00 and are closed on
weekends, with government employees often going home
on Friday after lunch.
Advertising & PR
Iceberg Communications I-4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi,
Pall. Edil Al-It, tel./fax +355 4 226 76 81, office@
icebergcommunication.com, www.icebergcommunica-
tion.com. Publicity, PR and events.
Ogilvy H-4, Rr. Him Kolli, Pall 10 katesh, Kati 1, tel.
+355 4 224 75 33, fax +355 4 226 24 19, ogilvy.alba-
nia@ogilvy.com, www.ogilvyal.com.
Banks
Alpha Credit Bank Rr. e Kavajës, G-Kam Center,
Pall.14 katësh, tel. +355 4 227 85 00, fax +355 4 222
14 48, marketing.albania@alpha.gr, www.alphabank.
al. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
BKT (Banka Kombëtare Tregtare) Bul. Zhan D’Ark,
tel. +355 4 225 09 55, fax +355 4 225 09 56, tsan@
bkt.com.al, www.bkt.com.al. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Credins Rr. Ismail Qemali 21, tel. +355 4 223 40 96,
fax +355 4 222 29 16, info@bankacredins.com, www.
bankacredins.com. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 -
13:00. Closed Sun.
Emporiki Bank Albania Rr. e Kavajës 27, 1001, Ti-
rana Tower, tel. +355 4 225 87 55, fax +355 4 224 09
95, headoffice@emporiki.com.al, www.emporiki.com.
al. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
prodent
K L I N I K E D E N T A R E
Rr. Abdy l Fr ashër i
Pal l . Hek l a Kat i 3
Tel . +355 4 227 01 25
+355 69 202 85 96
+355 68 402 08 18
54
DIRECTORY
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
Culture
calls
Emergency numbers:
Police 129, Fire 128
Denmark H/I-4, Rr. Nikolla Tupe 1, Kati 4, Ap. 4, tel.
+355 4 228 06 00, fax +355 4 228 06 30, tiaamb@
um.dk, www.ambtirana.um.dk. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Egypt E-2, Rr. Skënderbej 1, tel. +355 4 223 30
22/+355 4 224 79 86, fax +355 4 223 22 95, egyemb@
albaniaonline.net, www.mfa.gov.eg. QOpen 09:00 -
16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
France E-2, Rr. Skënderbej 14, tel. +355 4 223 42
50, fax +355 4 223 44 42, ambafrance.tr@adanet.
com.al, www.ambafrance-al.org. Q Open 09:00-13:00,
14:30-17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
“SC 19-01-10”
Germany E-2, Rr. Skënderbej 8, tel. +355 4 227 45
05/+355 4 227 45 06, fax +355 4 223 34 97, info@
tira.diplo.de, www.tirana.diplo.de. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Greece E/F-2, Rr. Frederik Shiroka 3, tel. +355 4 227
46 44, fax +355 4 223 41 40, gremb.tir@mfa.gr, www.
mfa.gr/tirana. Consulates in Gjirokastra and Korça. QOpen
08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Holy See (Vatican) D-4, Rr. Durrësit 13, tel. +355 4
223 35 16, fax +355 4 223 20 01, nunapal@icc-al.org.
QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Hungary E-2, Rr. Skënderbej 16, tel. +355 4 223 22
38/+355 4 223 49 03, fax +355 4 222 54 11, mission.
tia@kum.hu, www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/tirana. QOpen
08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Iran H-5, Rr. Mustafa Matohiti 20, tel. +355 4 222 76
98/+355 4 225 50 38, fax +355 4 223 04 09, ambiran@
icc.al.eu.org, tirana.mfa.gov.ir. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Italy H-5, Rr. Gjon Pali II, 2, tel. +355 4 227 59 00,
fax +355 4 227 49 00, segreteriambasciata.tirana@
esteri.it, www.ambtirana.esteri.it. Consulates in Vlora
and Shkodra. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Macedonia F-2, Rr. Kavajës 116, tel. +3554 4 223
09 09, fax +355 4 223 25 14, tirana@mfa.gov.mk,
www.mfa.gov.mk. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Montenegro G-5, Rr. Jul Varibova 11, tel. +355 4 226
13 09, fax +355 4 225 74 06, albania@mfa.gov.me.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Netherlands H-5, Rr. Asim Zeneli 10, tel. +355 4
224 08 28/+355 4 224 08 26, fax +355 4 223 27 23,
tir@minbuza.nl, www.mfa.nl/tir. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Poland D-2, Rr. Durrësit 123, tel. +355 4 223 41 90,
fax +355 4 223 33 64, polemb@albaniaonline.net.
QOpen 08.15 - 16.15. Closed Sat, Sun.
Romania H-5, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji 1, tel. +355 4
225 60 71, fax +355 4 225 60 72, roemb@adanet.com.
al, www.mae.ro. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Russia H-5, Rr. Donika Kastrioti 2, tel. +355 4 225
60 40, fax +355 4 225 60 46, rusemb@albmail.com,
www.albania.mid.ru. Q Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:00-12:00.
Saudi Arabia D-3, Rr. Kavajës 116, tel. +355 4 224
83 06, fax +355 4 222 99 82, embasaudarab@albania-
online.net, www.mofa.gov.sa. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Fri
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Serbia H-4, Rr. Donika Kastrioti 9/1, tel. +355 4 223
20 91, fax +355 4 223 20 89, ambatira@icc-al.org,
www.tirana.mfa.gov.rs. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Slovenia I-4, Rr. Abdyl Frasheri 11/1, EGT Tower, tel.
+355 4 227 48 58, fax +355 4 222 13 11, vti@gov.si.
QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Spain D-2, Rr. Skënderbej 43, tel. +355 4 227 49 61,
fax +355 4 222 53 83, emb.tirana@maec.es, www.
maec.es. QOpen 09:30 - 14:00,16:00-19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Sweden H-6, Rr. Pjetër Budi 76, tel. +355 4 238 06
50, fax +355 4 238 06 60, ambassaden.tirana@sida.
se, www.sweden.gov.se. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed
Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun.
Switzerland H-6, Rr. Elbasanit 81, tel. +355 4 223 48
88, fax +355 4 223 48 89, tir.vertretung@eda.admin.
ch, www.eda.admin.ch/tirana. QOpen 09:00 - 11:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Turkey I-6, Rr. Elbasanit 65, tel. +355 4 238 03 50,
fax +355 4 234 77 67, turkemb@atnet.al, www.tirana.
be.mfa.gov.tr. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
United Kingdom E-2, Rr. Skënderbej 12, tel. +355 4
223 49 73, fax +355 4 224 76 97, enquiries.tirana@
fco.gov.uk, www.ukinalbania.fco.gov.uk. QOpen 09:00
- 11:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
United States I-6, Rr. Elbasanit 103, tel. +355 4 224
72 85, fax +355 4 223 22 22, http://tirana.usembassy.
gov. Visits by appointment only. QOpen 14:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Fitness centres
Tirana Fitness Centre I-5, Sheshi Italia, Sheraton
Hotel, tel. +355 4 227 47 07. Workout room, sauna, and
massage by appointment. QOpen 24hrs.
Top Technogym K- 4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit,
Vila Park, tel. +355 4 225 65 68, top_technogym@
yahoo.com. Tirana’s best gym, with various fitness ma-
chines, an oxygen sauna, steam sauna and jacuzzi. Beside
the Vila Park hotel, 100 metres inside the Grand Park.
QOpen 24hrs.
Governmental organisations
Albania’s governmental organisations. Note that these
often do not work on Friday afternoon.
Albanian Development Fund Rr. Sami Frashëri 10,
tel. +355 4 223 55 97, fax +355 4 223 48 85, adf@
albaniandf.org, www.albaniandf.org.
Albinvest Blv. Gjergj Fishta, Pall. Shallvareve, tel.
+355 4 225 28 86, fax +355 4 222 23 41, info@albin-
vest.gov.al, www.albinvest.gov.al.
Institute of Statistics (INSTAT) Blv. Zhan D’Ark 3,
tel. +355 4 222 24 11, fax +355 4 222 83 00, inuria@
instat.gov.al, www.instat.gov.al. Publishes a yearl y
report called Albania in Figures (Shqipëria në Shifra).
KESH Rr. Vasil Shanto, tel. +355 4 225 97 29, fax
+355 4 223 20 46, www.kesh.com.al. National electric-
ity corporation.
Hair, Beauty & Wellness
Ardi Hair Fashion H-3, Rr. Vaso Pasha 7, tel. +355 4
227 09 67/+355 68 20 26 118, ardian.borova@yahoo.
com. Professional ladies and gents salon with ammonia-free
hair colouring. QOpen 08:30 - 19:30. Closed Sun.
Da Shanghai Health Centre I-3, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi
16/6, tel. +355 4 222 49 27/+355 69 247 62 71.
Chinese doctors perform therapeutic foot (45 mins 1500
lek) and body (60 mins 3,000 lek) massages, acupuncture
and herbal baths (15 mins 500 lek). QOpen 09:00 - 13:00,
15:30-21:30. Closed Sun.
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DIRECTORY
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
Genci C-5, Rr. Elbasanit, Pall 2, Shk 9, Ap 70, tel. +355
4 227 23 13/+355 68 206 16 00. Men’s hairdresser.
QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Joyel Spa Rr. e Elbasanit, tel. +355 4 234 79 79, info@
joyelspa.com, www.joyelspa.com. Beautiful spa offering
massages, body and facial treatments, physiotherapy, yoga
and more. Opposite the Calvin club. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon.
Krehëri i artë i Edlirës G-6, Rr. Petro Nini Luarasi,
Nd.61 H4, tel. +355 4 223 39 50. Women’s hairdresser.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Sallon Sharm Rr. Bardhyl 20, Unazë, tel. +355 68
606 87 77, www.sharm-sallon.com. A hairdresser with
a difference - profits go to a charity improving the lives of
prisoners. Haircuts (men Monday only), make-up, facials,
manicures and more. On the ringroad near the eastern end
of Rruga Qemal Stafa. Call ahead. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon, Sun.
Velur Spa G-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, Metropol Center, tel.
+355 4 222 25 50/+355 69 203 29 00, info@velurspa.
com, www.velurspa.com. A smart ‘Spa & Relax’ centre on
the lower floor of the Metropol building. There’s a hamam
(Turkish bath) and you can undergo massage, hydrotherapy,
waxing, facials, manicure/pedicure, and skin treatments with
Thai mud, herbs and even chocolate. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 14:00 - 22:00.
Wang Yan Massage (Dragoi i Zjarrtë) I - 3,
Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 4 241 58 70, dra-
goizjarrte@hotmail.com. Vari ous ki nds of massage
(therapeuti c, foot, keep-fi t) from 2,500 l ek per hour, as
well as acupuncture and herb treatments. In a second-
fl oor apartment; l ook for the ‘Chinese massage’ si gn.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Hospitals & Clinics
Clinics do not usually take patients outside office hours.
For emergencies, go to the American Hospital or to the
Civilian Hospital (northeast of the centre on Rr. Dibrës).
ABC Clinic D-5, Rr. Qemal Stafa 260, tel. +355 4 223
41 05/+355 68 260 04 05, healthcenter@abchealth.
org, www.abchealth.org. Christian, English-speaking
clinic.QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
American Hospital (Spitali Amerikan) Pranë
Spitalit Ushtarak, Laprakë, tel. +355 4 235 75 35, fax
+355 4 235 76 34, info@spitaliamerikan.com, www.
spitaliamerikan.com. A new and modern hospital along
the Durrës highway, with international staff and a good
English-language website.
DSF Medical Centre Rr. Irfan Tomini Nr.5-1, tel.
+355 4 223 27 99. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Hygeia Hospital Tirana-Durrës highway, km1, Fushë
Mëzez, tel. +355 4 239 00 00/+355 4 232 30 00 (emer-
gencies), info@hygeia.al, www.hygeia.al. Albania’s first
large private hospital, opened in 2010.
Klinika Irma Rr. Dora D’Istria, Pall. Triss, tel. +355
4 224 30 00/+355 4 224 28 80, klinikairma@gmail.
com. A large private multi-speciality clinic near the Grand
Park. Doctors speak English, French and Italian. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
HYGEIA
means...
HEALTH
www.hygeia.al
Km 01 of the secondary road of Tirana-Durrës Highway,
Fushë-Mëzez, Kashar Commune, Tirana.
Telephone: +355 4 2390 000,
Emergency: +355 4 2323 000
Fax: +355 4 2388 996
The biggest ever investment
for health care in Albania
w
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tc
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€1 = 140 lek, £1 = 166 lek,
US$1 = 103 lek (Feb 5, 2011)
Albanian is an Indo-European language with a 36-letter
alphabet; like the country itself it is one of a kind. There
are distant links with Romanian, and many words on loan
from Turkish, Greek and Slavic.
An increasing number of Albanians speaks a foreign
language: Italian is extremely widespread (thanks to
satellite dishes and emigration), English is catching on
fast, and many Albanians in the south understand Greek.
Pronunciation
a as in father c as in pizza
ç as in church dh as in that
e as in set ë as in term
gj as in dodge i as in machine
j as in year II as in still
nj as in union q as show
r as in rope rr is a trilled r
x as in judge
Niceties & Necessities
Yes Po
No Jo
Good Mirë
Please Ju lutem
Thank you Faleminderit
Sorry! Më vjen keq!
Good morning Mirëmëngjes
Good day Mirdita
Hello ç’kemi
Good night Natën e mirë
Good luck with your work! Punë e mbarë!
Cheers! Gëzuar!
All the best! Gjithë të mirat!
Excuse me! Më falni!
How are you? Si jeni?
Practicalities
When? Kur?
Where? Ku?
Who? Kush?
Why? Pse?
What? Çfarë?
I have... Kam...
I am... Jam...
What’s your name? Si quheni?
My name is... Quhem...
I’m from... Une jam nga...
...UK ...Anglia
...USA ...Amerika
...Germany ...Gjermania
I don’t understand Nuk kuptoj
I don’t speak Albanian Nuk flas shqip
A ticket, please Një biletë, ju lutem
How much does this cost? Sa kushton?
Numbers
0 zero 1 një 2 dy
3 tre 4 katër 5 pesë
6 gjashtë 7 shtatë 8 tetë
9 nentë 10 dhjetë 20 njëzet
50 pesëdhjetë 100 njëqind 1000 njëmijë
Time
Now Tani Later Më vonë
Today Sot Tomorrow Nesër
Yesterday Dje
Language
58
DIRECTORY
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
Luigi Monti Clinic E-3, Rr. Kavajës 120, tel. +355
4 222 39 06, fax +355 4 223 11 25, poliambu-
lanca@fzkm.org, www.unizkm.al. Part of the Catholic
Diagnostic Center. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00-19:00.
Closed Sun.
Mari e Stopes Cl i ni c Rr. Tef ta Tashko Koço
10, tel ./f ax +355 4 224 10 18, mstopes@i cc-
al . or g, www. mar i estopesal bani a. com. Fami l y
pl anni ng cl i ni c provi di ng safe, comprehensi ve re-
product i ve heal t hcare and educat i on i n a count r y
where cont racepti on and abor ti on were i l l egal unti l
1991. QOpen 08: 00 - 18: 00, Sat 08: 00 - 12: 00.
Cl osed Sun.
Orthodox Clinic Rr. Dibrës 159, tel. +355 4 236 09
25/+355 4 238 22 10, fax +355 4 237 48 04, klinika-
orthodhokse@yahoo.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Insurance companies
Insig Rr.e Dibrës, Nr. 91, tel. +355 4 225 68 12, fax
+355 4 223 41 80, marrja@insig.com.al, www.insig.
com.al. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
InterAlbanian I-3, Rr. Sulejman Delvina, Zayed Busi-
ness Center, tel. +355 4 222 95 78/+355 4 225 51
71, fax +355 4 222 95 11, kontakt@interalbanian.
com, www.interalbanian.com. QOpen 08;30 - 17:00,
Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Sigal Uniqa Group Austria Blv. Zog I, No. 1, tel.
+355 4 223 33 08, fax +355 4 225 02 20, info@sigal.
com.al, www.sigal.com.al. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Sigma Rr.Komuna Parisit, Pallatet Lura k.2, POB 1714,
tel. +355 4 225 82 54, fax +355 4 225 82 53, info@
sigma-al.com, www.sigma-al.com.
International organisations
Albania’s non-governmental and international organisa-
tions.
EBRD (European Bank for Reconstruction and
Development) Rr. Abdi Toptani, Torre Drini k.4, tel.
+355 4 223 28 98, fax +355 4 223 05 80, alickola@
ebrd.com, www.ebrd.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Ekolëvizja Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, Shk 3, Ap 4, tel./fax
+355 4 223 48 51, ekolevizja@yahoo.com, www.
ekolevizja.org. A network of ecology groups across Albania.
QOpen 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
European Union Delegation ABA BRr. Papa Gjon
Pali II, ABBA Business Center, 17th floor, tel. +355 4
222 83 20, fax +355 4 223 07 52, delegation-albania@
ec.europa.eu, www.delalb.ec.europa.eu.
GTZ (German Projects Office) Rr. Skënderbeg
21/1, tel. +355 4 223 04 14, fax +355 4 225 17 92,
gtz-albanien@gtz.de, www.gtz.de.
IMF Resident Mission in albania (International
Monetary Fund) Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit, Twin
Tower 1, Suite 5-4,, tel. +355 4 228 04 00, fax +355 4
228 04 01, rr-alb@imf.org, www.imf.org/tirana. QOpen
09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
IOM (International Office for Migration) H-4, Rr.
Brigada VIII, Vila nr 3, tel. +355 4 227 16 29, fax +355
4 225 78 35, iomtirana@iom.int, www.iom.int/albania.
QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
OSCE (Organisation for Security and Cooperation
in Europe) Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Hotel, tel. +355 4
223 59 96, fax +355 4 224 86 84, pm-al@osce.org,
www.osce.org/albania.
SNV (Dutch Projects Office) Rr. Dëshmorët e 4
Shkurtit, tel. +355 4 225 58 00, fax +355 4 225 58 01,
balkans@snvworld.org, www.snvworld.org.
Soros Foundation (NOSA) Rr. Qemal Stafa 120/1,
tel. +355 4 223 46 21/+355 4 223 42 23, fax +355 4
223 58 56, info@osfa.soros.al, www.soros.al. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Transparency International Bul. Gjergj Fishta, tel.
+355 4 226 74 57, info@tia.al, www.tia.al.
UNDP (United Nations Development Program)
Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II (ABA Bussines Center) kati 6, tel.
+355 4 240 07 21, fax +355 4 240 07 25, info@un.org.
al, www.undp.org.al.
UNFPA (United Nations Fund for Population) Rr.
Donika Kastrioti 1/1, tel. +355 4 225 78 38, fax +355
4 223 22 83, registry@unfpa.org.al, www.unfpa.org.
UNHCR (United Nations High Commissioner for
Refugees) Rr. Donika Kastrioti 4, tel. +355 4 225 01
06, fax +355 4 222 84 92, berberi@unhcr.org, www.
unhcr.org.
UNICEF (United Nations Children’s Fund) Rr.
Skënderbej, Godina Volkswagen, Kati 3, tel. +355 4
227 33 35, fax +355 4 224 37 75, tirana@unicef.org,
www.unicef.org. QOpen 8:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
USAID (United States Aid) Rr. Elbasanit 103,
tel. +355 4 224 72 85, fax +355 4 223 22 22, www.
usaid.gov.
WHO (World Health Organisation) Rr.Themistokli
Gërmenji, Pall. 10, tel. +355 4 2236 44 84, fax +355
4 226 61 62, office@who-albania.org, www.un.org.al.
International schools
Ecole Viktor Hygo Rr. Tre Vellezërit Kondi, tel.
+355 4 237 17 25/+355 69 20 61 677, i nf o@
ecole-vhugo.com, www.ecole-vhugo.com. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00.
Memorial International School Rr. Durrësit, tel.
+355 4 223 73 79, info@mistedu.net, www.mistedu.
com.
Tirana International School (TIS) Rr. Tre Vellezërit
Kondi, tel. +355 4 236 52 39, tirana@qsi.org, www.
qsiweb.org/alb.
Language courses
International Language Centre D- 5, Rr. Luigj
Gurakuqi Nd.5, H.4, Njësia Bashkiake 2, POB 1017,
tel. +355 4 223 61 41/+355 4 223 46 60, ilc@primo.
al. Albanian lessons for beginners to advanced students.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Lincoln Center H-4, Rr. Qemal Stafa 184, tel. +355
4 223 08 80, info@lincoln.org.al, www.lincolnalbania.
org. Albanian for foreigners as well as English, German,
Spanish and computer courses. Inside Enver Hoxha’s old
villa, and two other outlets. QOpen 8:00 - 20:00.
Lawyers & Consultants
Boga & Associates Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Kom-
pleksi Green Park, tel. +355 4 225 10 50/+355 68 206
20 10, fax +355 4 225 10 55, info@bogalaw.com, www.
bogalaw.com. QOpen 08:30 - 06:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Deloitte F-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, Eurocol Center, tel.
+355 4 227 79 20, fax +355 4 227 79 90, alzhja@
deloittece.com, www.deloitte.com/al.
Kalo & Associates E-3, Rr. Kavajës, Qendra e Busi-
nessit G-KAM, tel. +355 4 223 35 32, fax +355 4 222
47 27, info@kalo-attorneys.com, www.kalo-attorneys.
com.
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ThE ANSWEF
ACMS - Albanian Center for Manageuent Services llc.
Address. Fr. 0jon Fali ll (foruer Fr. Leke üukagjini) 11/1/5, Tirana, Albania
Fhone. 00 355 1 2 255 ë55 Đ Fax. 00 355 1 2 271 9ë0
e-uail. info@cusalbania.cou Đ web. www.cusalbania.cou
60
DIRECTORY
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
KPMG H- 4, Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, Twin Tower
1, tel. +355 4 227 45 24, fax +355 4 223 55 34, al-
office@kpmg.com, www.kpmg.al. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30.
Closed Sat, Sun.
TBI Law Firm D-4, Blv. Zog I, Veve Business Center,
tel./fax +355 4 222 89 62, ketrin.topciu@tbi-al.com,
www.tbi-al.com.
Tonucci & Partners H-4, Rr. Abdi Toptani, Torre Drini,
tel. +355 4 225 07 11, fax +355 4 225 07 13, tirana@
tonucci.it, www.tonucci.it.
Libraries
American Corner E-4, Sheshi Skenderbeg (National
Library), tel. +355 4 26 99 55, nildakajo@yahoo.com.
A library with American books and magazines. QOpen 08:00
- 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
National Library E-4, Sheshi Skënderbej, Palace of
Culture, tel./fax +355 4 222 38 43, www.bksh.al.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
University Library (Biblioteka Universitare) I-4,
Sheshi Nënë Tereza, tel. +355 4 226 94 54. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Media
Albanian Daily News Rr. Dervish Hima, No. 1, tel.
+355 4 225 61 12, fax +355 4 224 08 88, infoadn@
albnet.com, www.albaniannews.com. A daily English-
language newspaper with a website for subscribers.
Tirana Times tel. +355 4 227 42 03, www.tirana-
times.com. A weekly newspaper in rather dodgy English
with national and international news, features and events.
For sale in hotels and at newsstands for 350 lek. Also offers
an online daily news subscription.
Ministries
Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Consumer Pro-
tection Sheshi Skënderbej 2, tel./fax +355 4 222 65
51, info@mbumk.gov.al, www.mbumk.gov.al.
Ministry of Defence Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit 1, tel.
+355 4 222 66 01, fax +355 4 222 83 25, kontakt@
mod.gov.al, www.mod.gov.al.
Ministry of Economy, Commerce and Energy
Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit 2, tel. +355 4 222 76 17,
kabineti@mete.gov.al, www.mete.gov.al.
Ministry of Education and Science Rr. Durrësit 23,
tel. +355 4 222 63 07, fax +355 4 223 20 02, mashad-
min@mash.gov.al, www.mash.gov.al.
Ministry of Environment Rr. Durrësit 27, tel. +355 4
227 06 30, fax +355 4 227 06 27, mpazaj@moe.gov.
al, www.moe.gov.al.
Ministry of Finance Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit 4, tel.
+355 4 222 79 37, fax +355 4 222 84 94, generalsec-
retary@minfin.gov.al, www.minfin.gov.al.
Ministry of Foreign Affairs Blv. Gjergj Fishta 6, tel.
+355 4 236 40 90, fax +355 4 236 20 84, info@mfa.
gov.al, www.mfa.gov.al.
Ministry of Health Blv. Bajram Curri 1, tel. +355 4
236 46 84, fax +355 4 237 61 92, kabineti@moh.gov.
al, www.moh.gov.al.
Ministry of Integration I-5, Rr. Gjon Pali II, nr. 3, tel.
+355 4 222 86 45, fax +355 4 225 62 67, elda.kalaja@
mie.gov.al, www.mie.gov.al.
Ministry of Interior Affairs Sheshi Skënderbej 3, tel./
fax +355 4 224 71 55, ministria.brendshme@moi.gov.
al, www.moi.gov.al.
Ministry of Justice Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 225 93
88, fax +355 4 223 45 60, ministri@justice.gov.al,
www.justice.gov.al.
Ministry of Labor,Social Affairs and Equal Op-
portunities Rr. Kavajës 53, tel. +355 4 225 10 08,
fax +355 4 222 83 40, kontakt@mpcs.gov.al, www.
mpcs.gov.al.
Ministry of Public Works, Transport and Teleco-
munication Sheshi Skënderbej 5, tel. +355 4 238 08
33, jeta.rustemi@mpptt.gov.al, www.mpptt.gov.al.
Ministry of Tourism, Culture, Youth and Sports
Rr. e Kavajës, tel. +355 4 222 25 08, fax +355 4 227
12 59, informacion@mtkrs.gov.al, www.mkrs.gov.al.
Municipality of Tirana Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit, tel.
+355 4 222 66 29/+355 4 225 30 53, fax +355 4 222
84 30, info@tirana.gov.al, www.tirana.gov.al.
Prime Minister’s Office Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit 1,
tel. +355 4 225 65 61, ext. 440, fax +3554 223 48 18,
info@km.gov.al, www.keshilliministrave.al.
Moval companies
Move One Relocations D-5, Rr. Brigada 8, Pall.
Tekno- Projekt, Shk 2, Ap 3/2, tel./fax +355 4 225
81 03, albani a@moveonei nc.com, www.moveo-
neinc.com. Moval s for compani es and i ndi vi dual s,
as wel l as tai l or-made rel ocati on, home search and
settling-in servi ces.
Notaries
These offices provide notary work and legal assistance.
Some also do written translations into and from English,
French, German, Italian, Greek and Turkish.
Agim Robo H-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 27/1, tel. +355 4
224 88 40, agimrobo@hotmail.com. QOpen 08:30 -
14:00; 18:00-19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Address: Rr.: “Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit”, Kompleksi “Green Park”, Kulla 2, Kati II, Tirana, Albania
Tel.: +355 (4) 4500 139 / Fax: +355 (4) 4500 200
Mob.:+355 (0) 69 40 45 139 / (0) 68 40 45 139 / (0) 67 20 45 139
e-mail: info@abcom.al
website: www.abcom.al
The new Point of Sales in Tirana:

Address: Rr. "Muhamet Gjollesha", Pallati Scutari Construction
Address: Rr. "Mihal Duri", Pll. 60, Shk. 1, Ap. 24

Address: Rr. "Gogo Nushi", Pll. 16, Shk. 3, Kati I, Ap. 1/1
3 sevices in 1 cable
Television Telephony
62
DIRECTORY
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
Blerina Avrazi Rr. e Durrësit, Pall.204, tel. +355 4
222 11 87, fax +355 4 480 51 99, blerina_avrazi@
yahoo.it.
Dhimitra Qarri G-3, Blv. Bajram Curri, Pallatet 1Maji,
Shk. 3, Ap 24, tel. +355 4 225 12 00/+355 69 209 55
71, vqarri@yahoo.com.
Fatime Metaj D-3, Rr. Durrësit 118, Shk. 1, Ap. 1, tel.
+355 4 223 98 72, fatimemetaj@yahoo.com.
Majlinda Lleshi Rr. Sulejman Delvina, pranë qendrës
Zayed, majlinda06@yahoo.it.
Opticians
Italoptike D-5, Rr. Dibrës 271, tel. +355 4 222 29 85.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Optika Bruna G-4, Blv. Bajram Curri,Pallatet Agimi,
tel./fax +355 4 224 63 61, www.otticabruna.com.
QOpen 09:00 - 13:00/16:00- 20:00. Closed Sun.
Ottical E-3, Rr. Kavajës 207, tel. +355 4 225 38 83,
info@ottical.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Open
09:00-13:00, 16:00-20:00. Closed Sun.
Pharmacies
Farmacia 7-17 C-4, Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 222 22
41. The non-stop city centre pharmacy. Next to the Tirana
Bank. QOpen 24hrs.
Farmaci Regi dhe Bime Mjeksore H-4, Rr. Dësh-
morët e 4 Shkurtit, tel. +355 4 222 67 59. Q Open
09:00-14:00, 17:00-20:00. On duty 24hrs.
Farmatech D-5, Rr. Barrikadave, tel. +355 4 223
65 84, info@farmatech.net. Modern pharmacy, English
spoken. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
Rudi Farma D-4, Blv. Zogu I, tel. +355 4 224 89 51.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Photography
A.Rreli C-4, Blv. Zogu I, 30/ Rr.Mine Peza Nr 1, tel.
+355 4 222 79 65/ 222 23 29/+355 68 20 29 675,
fotorreli@albmail.com. A chain of modern photo labs.
Digital developing too. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00
- 13:00, 17:00-21:30.
Ital Kumi H-4, Rr. Brigada VIII, 3/1, tel. +355 4 224
68 98/+355 69 202 03 60, loungebar042@gmail.com.
QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun.
Real estate
Albania Property Group Rr. Islam Alla, tel./fax +355
4 227 17 46, info@albaniapropertygroup.com, www.
albaniapropertygroup.com.
Alb Property Rr. Dervish Hima, tel. +355 4 224 62
53, info@alb-property.com, www.alb-property.com.
Alma Rr. Brigada VIII 8/1, tel. +355 4 225 00 58/+355
69 209 80 98, office@alma-realestate.com, www.
alma-realestate.com. Flats, houses, offices for sale and
for rent, property management and more.
Balkimo Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Hotel, tel. +355 4
226 63 94, fax +355 4 225 47 60, info@balkimo.com,
www.balkimo.com.
Century 21 Albania Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit .
Leskova building, tel. +355 4 225 05 99, fax +355 4
225 78 29, info@century21albania.com, www.centu-
ry21albania.com.
Colliers G/H-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, Sky Tower,
suite 141, tel. +355 4 240 04 70, fax +355 4 240 04
71, albania@colliers.com, www.colliers.com.
Green Hours Rr. Abdi Kazani, P. Luarasi 2a, tel./fax
+355 4 223 28 44, info@greenhours.net, www.green-
hours.net. Specialises in building plots and agricultural land.
INF93 Rr. Luigj Gurakuqi 8, tel./fax +355 4 224 95 22,
inf93@abaniaonline.net, www.inf-93.com.
Real Estate Imobiliary Rr. Kavajës, Pall. 3, Shk. 7,
Ap. 66, tel. +355 4 223 31 18, reale@icc.al.eu.org.
Swimming pools
Aquadrom K-3, Liqeni Artificial, Tirane, tel. +355 4
225 62 57. West of the Grand Park are these four outdoor
swimming pools. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Open May-Oct
Admission 300-400 lek.
Chateau Linza Rr. Porcelanit, Qesarakë, Linza, tel.
+355 69 203 00 03, www.chateaulinzahotel.com. Hotel
pool open for visitors.
Park Venue Mullet, Tirana-Elbasan road km 15, tel.
+355 68 328 66 66. A hotel pool available for all to use.
Q Admission 500 lek.
Tennis courts
Grand Park Tennis Courts K-3, Aquadrom Complex,
West of the park. Next to the Aquadrom complex, just to
the west of the park.
Rogner Europapark Courts H-5, Blv. Dëshmorët
e 4 Shkurtit, tel. +355 4 223 50 35, info@tirana.
rogner.com. Call ahead for reservati ons. QOpen 24
hours opened.
Translations
Fadil Metaj D-3, Rr. Durresit, Pall. 79, Shk. 4, Kati
1, tel. +355 4 223 04 48, fmetaj2005@yahoo.com.
Translates English to/from Albanian, Serbian, Croatian,
Slovenian, Macedonian, Bulgarian and Russian.
4 Dëshmorët C-6
28 Nëntori F-4/5, E-5
Abdi Toptani F-4/5
Abdulla Keta D-5
Abdyl Frashëri I-3/4/5
Adem Kruja G-2
Ali Pashe Gucia C-5/6, D-6
Andon Zako Çajupi H-3
Asim Vokshi D-3/4
Asim Zeneli H-5/6
Bardhok Biba D-4
Barrikadave B/C-4, D-4/5
Beqir Luga E-6
Besim Imami F-2/3
Bilal Konxholli C-5/6
Blv. Bajram CurriH-1 to G-6
Blv. Dëshmorët e Kombit
F-4 to I-5
Blv. Gjergj FishtaH-1 to G-4
Blv. Zhan D’Ark G-5 to E-6
Blv. Zogu I C/D/E-4
Bogdani E-3
Brigada VIII H-3/4
Çamëria F-3/4
Çerçiz Topulli C-4, D-5
Ded Gjo Luli E-4
Dervish Hatixhe D/C-4
Dervish Hima I-5/6
Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit
G/H/I/J-4
Dhimitër S. Shuteriqi J-1/2
Dibrës C/D-5, B5/6
Don Bosko B/C-2
Donika Kastrioti G/H-4
Dora D’Istria K/J-4
Durrësit D-2/3, E-3/4
Edit Durham E-2
Elbasanit G-5, H-5/6, I-6
Emin Duraku I-2, H-3
Fadil Rada I-2, H-3
Faik Konica I-6
Fatmir Haxhiu G-5
Frederik Shiroka F-1/2, E-2
Gjin Bue Shpata H/I-3
Gjin Kuqali I/J-3
Gjon Buzuku B/C-5
Gjon Muzaka E-2
Gjon Pali II G/H/I-5
Grigor Heba I-2, J-2/3
Hajdar Hidi E/F-3
Haki Mborja J-1
Halim Xhelo E-2
Haxhi Hysen Dalliu
D-3, C-3/4
Haxhi Sina C-6
Him Kolli F-3
Hoxhe Vokrri D-6
Hoxha Tahsim E/D-6
Ibrahim Dervishi I-1
Isa Boletini C/D-5
Islam Alla E/F/G-3
Ismail Qemali H-3/4/5
Jani Vreto E-5/6
Jeronim de Rada F-5
Jordan Misja A/B/C-3
Jul Varibova G-5
Justin Gadari E/F-2
Jusuf Vrioni I-2
K. Shijaku B/C-4
Kajo Karafili E-3/4
Karl Gega B-4
Kavajës F-1/2/3, E-3/4
Komuna e Parisit H-2/3, I-2
Kont Urani E-3
Kristaq Mema D-2/3
Lek Dukagjini I-5, J-4
Lidhja Prizrenit I/J-4
Street register
All Tirana streets below are prefexed
‘Rruga’ (Rr.); boulevards are listed as
‘Blv’, squares as ‘Sheshi’.
Liman Kaba J-2/3, K-2
Luigj Gurakuqi E-4/5
Mahmut Fortuzi B/C-4
Maliq Muço D-4
Margarita Tutulani J-3/4
Medar Shtylla I/J/K-2
Mehmet Brocaj D-3
Mihal Duri E-3
Mihal Grameno G-6
Milto Tutulani I/J-3
Mine Peza C-2, D-2/3, E-3
Muhamet Gjollesha
D-1/2, E-1, F-1, G-1/2, H-2
Murat Toptani F-4/5
Musa Agolli B-5
Mustafa Lleshi G-6
Mustafa Matohiti G/H-5
Myrtezim Këlliçi E/F-5
Myslym Shyri G-2/3, F-3/4
Naim Frashëri E/F-2
Nasi Pavllo H/I-6
Nikolla Lena F-2
Nikolla Tupe I-3/4, H-4
Papa Kristo Negovani C-4
Perlat Rexhepi C-4
Petro Korçari I-1
Petro Nini Luarasi F-6
Pjetër Bogdani H-3/4
Pjetër Budi H-6
Prek Bibë Doda H-2
Presidenti George W. Bush
F-5
Prokop Myzeqari D-3
Punëtorët e Rilindjes
see Presidenti GWB
Qemal Guranjaku H-6
Qemal Stafa E-5, D-5/6
Ramzan Farka B-6
Reshit Çollaku F-4
Reshit Petrela B/C-4
Robert Shvare I-1
Sami Frashëri G-3 to J-4
Saraçëve D-5
Sermedin Said Toptani F-4
Shaqir Ofshafi C-5/6
Sheh Ahmet Pazari I-6
Shenasi Dishnica D/E-5
Sheshi 21 Dhjetori F-1
Sheshi Avni Rustemi E-5
Shesi Fan Noli E-5
Sheshi Italia I-5
Sheshi Nënë Tereza I-5
Sheshi Skënderbeg E/F-4
Sheshi Zogu i Zi C/D-2
Shyqyr Bërxolli E/F-3
Shyqyr Ishmi F-6
Siri Kodra B-4
Skënder Kosturi B/C-4
Skënderbeg D/E/F-2
Stavro Vinjau H/I-6
Sulejman Delvina H-2, I-2/3
Sulejman Pasha D-3/4, E-4
Tafaj C-5/6
Tefta Tashko Koço E-6
Thanas Ziko B-5/6, C-6
Themistokli Gërmenji H-5/6
Thimi Mitko E-6
Unaza C-2/3/4
V. Karapici E-6
V. Luarasi C-4/5, D-5
Vaso Pasha G/H/I/J-4
Vëllezërit Manastiri D-2
Viktor Eftimiu H-1, I-1/2
Xhezmi Delli E-2
Xhorxhi Martini E/F-5
Ymer Kurti I/J-3
Zenel Baboçi D-5
66
INDEX
Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.inyourpocket.com
30 Over 32
ABA Fi fth 24
ABA Twentyfirst 22
Albaniantrip 16
Albanian Federation of Cooks
24
Al Brigantino 24
Alcora 32
Alehandro 32
Al fa Club 30
Amor 20
Apollonia 18
Arber 10
Archaeological Museum 35
Areela 15
Artist Lounge 29
Ballkoni Dajtit 22
Bantia 18
Bardhë e Zi 29
Belvedere 17
Bermon 12
Big Bite 27
Billionaire 20
Bogova 26
Bonaparte 32
Bon Bon 30
Botanical gardens 38
Briker 15
Brilant Antik 10
Bristol 12
Broadway 12
Bujtina Shqiptare 16
Cali fornia 12
Calvin 33
Cameleon 30
Canon 30
Caramel Lounge 30
Carlsberg 18
Casa di Pasta 24
Cathedral of St. Paul 34
Central Market 34
Charl's Bistro 30
Chateau Linza 10
City 12
Clock Tower 36
Code 30
Coffee Store 29
Comfort 10
Converse 30
Dajti Ekspres Cable Car 39
Dajti Park 17
Da Shang Hai 20
Davidoff Club 30
Delice 24
Delikatesë 29
Diplomat 10
Diplomat Fashion 12
Doro City 12
Eder 15
Elysée 12
Emblema 18
Enoteca Joan 32
Epër7shme 29
Era 18
Et'hem Bey Mosque 37
Fan Noli Statue 38
Far East 20
Ferari 12
Fiore 24
Firenze 14
Flares 30
Folie 33
Fortress of Justinian 37
Freddy's Hostel 16
Friend's Book House 29
Galeria Shijaku 37
Grand 10
Grand Park 38
Green House 12, 24
Gregory’s Coffee 29
Guva e Qetë 15
Haxhiu 15
Heart of Christ Church 34
Hostel Albania 16
Hotel Airport Tirana 16
House of the Dervish
Khorosani 37
Iguana II 30
Iliria 14
Il Pomodoro Food Court 27
Imagine 33
Infinity 30
Irish Bar 33
Istanbul 27
Jumeirah 29
Juvenilja Castelo 26
Kalaja 15
Kalaja e Petrelës 18
King House 20
Kolonat 27
Kruja 14, 39
La Cantinella 24
La Tavernetta 24
La Voglia 26
Linda Spahiu Costume
Collection 35
Living Room 30
Lizard 31
Lollipop 33
London 20
Loro Borici 26
Lugano 14
Lulishte 1 Maji 20
Magic Blue 26
Martyrs' Cemetery 34
Meduza 31
Metropolitan 18
Mezuraj Museum 35
INDEX
Milingona 16
Millennium 20
Mimi 20
Miniri 14
Mojo 29
Mondial 12
Monument for the Righteous
Gentiles of Albania 38
Mother Teresa Statue 38
Mr. Chicken 27
Mrizi i Zanave 19
Mumja 33
Music Box 31
Napoli 24
National Art Gallery 35
National History Museum 35
Natural Science Museum 36
Nirvana 14
Nobel 14
Noel 31
Oda 19
Orthodox Cathedral 35
Orthodox Church 35
Otium 18
Palma 14
Panorama 17
Parlamenti 15
Pastarella 20
Pastiçeri International 29
Pasticeri Twin Towers 29
Patisserie Française 20
Pëllumbas Cave 39
Pension Andrea 16
Petrela Castle 39
Piazza 20
Pike Loti 15
Pirro 29
Pirro Mani 24
Pyramid 34
Queen Park 26
Quo Vadis 29
Radio 31
Raum 33
Regency Casino 33
Rei Jazz Club 33
Relax 29
Republika 16
Rinia Park 38
Rock 'n Roll 31
Rockwood 31
Rogner Europapark 10
Royal 22
Rozafa 26
Sarajet 19
Serenata 19
Serendipity 22
Shakesbeer 22
Shang Hai 20
Sharm Club 33
Shëngjin Church Mosaic 36
Sheraton Tirana Hotel 10
Sirius 19
Skanderbeg Square 34
Skanderbeg Statue 38
Sky Club 22
Sky Club Café 29
Sky Hotel 12
Sofra e Ariut 26
Sofra Turke 27
Spaghetti House & Fish 26
Steakhouse 23
Steelwings 31
Stela 14
Stephen Center B&B 16
Stephen Center Café 29
Stylus Club Marriott 32
Tanners' Bridge 37
Taverna Argjiro 19
Teqeja Dervish Hatixhe 37
Theranda 14
Tiki 32
Tirana Backpacker Hostel 17
Tirana International Hotel &
Conference Centre 12
Tirana Rock 32
Tomb of Kaplan Pasha 37
Unit Bar 32
Unknown Partisan Statue 38
Venecia 26
Venue Dance Club 33
Venue Park 17
Verzaci 16
Viking 23
Vila 3 14
Vila 12 27
Vila 31 20
Vila Aeroport 16
Vila Ambasador Chocolat 23
Vila Amsterdam 23
Vila Belvedere 14
Vila Logoreci 26
Vila Metropolitan 23
Vila Park 14
Vila Tafaj 14
Vila Toscana 17
Vila Verde 16
Vinum 18
Viva 20
Vogue Lounge 33
Wine Shop 32
Wine Spirit 32
Xheko Imperial 10
Xibraku 23
Yamato 26
Zanzibar 33
Zeta Gallery 36
Zoo 38
City-centre graffitti
ƛȽȻȳΎɅȷɂȶΎɃɁΎɂȽΎȲȷɁȱȽɄȳɀΎƝɃɀȽȾȳ͌ɁΎȺȯɁɂΎɁȳȱɀȳɂ
Albania Experience
Tel +355 4 2 272 055
Fax +355 4 2 271 960
Mobile: 067 40 490 90
Email: alexperience@albaniaonline.net
www.albania-experience.al
Address: Sheshi Italia, Sheraton Tirana &Towers, Tirana, Albania
ABA BUSINESS CENTER
Aba Business Center, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali ll, Tiranë
Coin Tirana
Aba Business Center,
Rr. Papa Gjon Pali ll, Tiranë

CONTENTS
www.inyourpocket.com

3

Contents
Arriving in Tirana
How to get here 5 6 7 8 10 18 28 29 30

Glossary
Tirana trave tips from A-Z

History
Occupations, liberations, damnations

Culture
Cinemas & theatre

Where to stay
A good night’s sleep

Restaurants
From Albanian to Japanese, Tirana has it all

Albanian cuisine today Located amidst government buildings and embassies in the heart of Tirana, this new complex is the capital’s only 5-star hotel and the unrivalled choice for international travelers and impeccable business events. Shops, bars and restaurants await you right outside in the Sheraton Plaza Shopping Mall, just moments from your room.
151 rooms, including 95 deluxe rooms, 55 suites and the Presidential Suite 50 Club rooms with exclusive access to the Club Lounge “Metropolitan” Restaurant offering Albanian and international cuisine “Infinity” Bar & Terrace Function rooms for over 500 guests Indoor and outdoor swimming pools Health club with fitness centre and sauna Shopping Mall with a variety of shops & cafés and a cinema “Il Pomodoro” Food Court located in the Shopping Mall
Sheshi Italia, Tirana, Albania Tel: +355 42 274707 Fax +355 42 274711 reservations.tirana@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/tirana

Good food is back

Cafés
Where to sip a kafe ekspres

Nightlife
Drink and dance the night away

The entrance to Tirana’s clock tower

What to see
Mosque, tower, horse

34 39 40 48 50 52

Around town
Mountains, caves, castles and towns

Getting around
Planes, buses, trains and cars

Mail & Phones
Keeping in touch

Shopping
Souvenirs, fashion and malls

Directory
From banks to real estate agents

Maps & Index
City map & Street register Index
Imaginative graffiti in the Selvia area

64-65 66

tirana.inyourpocket.com

Spring/Summer 2011

4

FOREWORD
It’s said that every country gets the leaders it deserves. If that’s the case than Albanians apparently don’t deserve much, as their politicians have been gambling with their future for the past two years. Ever since the disputed 2009 elections, both the Democratic and Socialist party are guilty of sabotaging Albania’s progress by delaying the drafting of much-needed laws, causing scandal after scandal and generally making a mess of things while all noses should be pointing firmly in one direction. Demonstrations got out of hand in January, and three civilians ended up dead, while the politicians shifted blame again. This is especially sad as it’s clear that Albanians are mature enough to understand what’s going on – so it seems to be the political class that is playing a very dangerous game with an increasingly disillusioned populace. But don’t let stories about the local power-mongers put you off from visiting Albania. The locals remain heartwarmingly welcoming, and the country needs international contact now more than ever. In this issue of Tirana In Your Pocket we highlight one of the most important aspects of foreign travel: the food. If it’s no good, a country is not worth visiting. But in the case of Albania there’s good news – it’s good, it’s getting better all the time, and it’s very affordable. Read all about it in the article by guest writer and world-famous food critic Rose Dosti on page 28. Then walk off the fat on a wonderful daytrip to the Pëllumbas cave; see page 39 for details. That, plus the usual reams of restaurant, hotel and nightlife reviews and other essential information. We would be delighted to hear about your Albanian experience; write your own comments below the reviews on our website or write to us at tirana@inyourpocket.com.

ARRIVING
About this guide - Lidhur me këtë udhëzues
The Tirana In Your Pocket city guide is the only dedicated English-language guidebook to Albania‘s capital, and is part of a Europe-wide series of acclaimed city guides. In Your Pocket guides are written for foreign travellers and residents, to provide honest, critical information that makes visiting the city easier for foreign visitors. As a private and commercial initiative, Tirana In Your Pocket has been written and researched by a team of local and foreign travel guide experts. The opinions in the guide are those of the writers, and are not in any way meant to glorify or denigrate the city, merely to point out the merits and shortcomings that we think foreign travellers should know about. Every guidebook has its faults, so we appreciate any information that would lead to improving the next issue. Emails can be sent to tirana@inyourpocket.com. Udhëzuesi i qytetit Tirana In Your Pocket (Tirana në xhepin tuaj) është udhëzuesi i vetëm në gjuhën angleze që i kushtohet kryeqytetit të Shqipërisë dhe është pjesë e një sërë udhëzuesve të njohur të qyteteve në mbarë Evropën. Udhëzuesit In your pocket janë hartuar për udhëtarët e huaj dhe për të huajt që banojnë në Tiranë, që të sigurojnë informacione të sinqerta kritike që e bëjnë vizitën në qytet më të lehtë për të sapoardhurit.Si një nismë private tregtare, Tirana In Your Pocket është shkruar dhe hartuar nga një ekip i ekspertëve vendas dhe të huaj të udhëzuesve të udhëtimit. Mendimet në udhëzues vijnë nga ata, dhe në asnjë mënyrë nuk kanë për qëllim që të lavdërojnë apo të nxjerrin në dritë të keqe qytetin, por thjesht të tregojnë meritat dhe mangësitë, të cilat ne mendojmë se udhëtarët e huaj duhet t‘i dinë. Çdo udhëzues ka të metat e veta, prandaj ne do të çmonim çdo sygjerim që do të shpinte në përmirësimin e botimit të ardhshëm. E-mailet mund të dërgohen në tirana@inyourpocket.com.

5

By plane
Tirana’s gleaming Nënë Tereza (Mother Teresa) airport, 17km northwest of Tirana, is a 30-45 minute drive from the city centre. Beside the baggage carousel in arrivals there’s an ATM, a BKT currency exchange office with so-so rates and the airport’s tourism information desk. Buy a local SIM card at the Vodafone or Eagle Mobile shops. Ignore the taxi drivers harassing new arrivals, but take an official yellow airport taxi to the centre for 2000 lek, or 2500 lek at night. Alternatively, hop on the Rinas Express airport bus (250 lek) to Skanderbeg Square, departing every hour between 08:00 and 19:00.

By bus
Tirana has skipped the ‘build a bus station’ stage of urban evolution, and buses drop off passengers at various points along the ring road; It’s a 15-20 minute walk down this boulevard to Skanderbeg Square, a short taxi ride, or hop on any bus heading that way from the bus stop across the street.

By car
Driving to Albania is an option now that roads and safety have greatly improved - but don’t expect to get there quickly. Coming from Greece, expect long queues and grinding bureaucracy on both sides of the border. The Kakavija and Kapshtica crossings are open 24hrs; Qafë Boti near Konispol and Tre Urat near Permet open till 22:00. From Macedonia, Qafë Thanë is the main crossing, though the Tushemisht crossing near Pogradec is quieter, has beautiful scenery and few delays. Together with the Bllade crossing near Peshkopi they are all open till 22:00; the Gorica crossing near Lake Prespa is open till 19:00. From Kosovo, you can quickly cross over at Qafë Morina and Qafë Prush, from Montenegro at Han i Hotit and Muriqan.

By train
Albania has no international passenger trains. Weary rail arrivals from Shkodra, Durrës and Pogradec will find themselves deposited at Tirana’s garden shed train station, at the northern end of Blv. Zogu I. It’s a 15-20 minute walk down this boulevard to Skanderbeg Square, a short taxi ride or a hop on any bus heading that way from the bus stop across the street.

Europe In Your Pocket
Northern Ireland Ireland Estonia Latvia Lithuania Belarus Netherlands Poland Germany Czech Republic Russia

By ferry
Arriving by ferry from Italy is perhaps the most relaxed way of entering the country. There are ferry lines from several Italian cities to the ports of Durrës, Shengjin and Vlora. Flying to Corfu and using the daily ferry to Saranda or the summertime hydrofoils to Saranda/Himara is often the cheapest way to reach South Albania (see www.ionian-cruises.com).

Cover story
The shadow of the Et’hem Bey Mosque falls on Tirana’s 19th century clock tower. Recently renovated, the clock is one of Tirana’s few sights and was originally used by visitors of a nearby market, telling them when to shut shop and go pray or go home. Now it’s used by people catching the bus from the city bus station next to it, and as a handy point of reference for foreign visitors.

Others about TIYP
“The biannual Tirana In Your Pocket is a good source of information. [TIYP] lists what’s going on and can be downloaded free or bought at bookshops, hotels and some of the larger kiosks for 400 lekë.” Rough Guide Europe, 2010 “For instant city guides, check out inyourpocket.com. Its 50 European city guides are regularly updated and available, for free, on the web or as PDF downloads.” Sunday Times Travel Magazine, April 2010 “These [In Your Pocket] guides are very well written and I was quite impressed.” Simon Calder, senior travel editor at The Independent, August 2, 2009 “We visited Tirana as an independent group. In Your Pocket has been an excellent help in providing us the information which we need. There are not any other companies that supply honest hotel, restaurant and nightlife info.” Greg Axon, United Kingdom, 4-2-2009 “You are great! Best city guide ever! Keep up the good work!” Igor Simac, 5-4-2009 “Loved your Tirana publication, it was very informative. I know officials read your publication and are sensitive to its message... maybe this will send them one: streets need to be cleaned up and made pedestrian friendly!” Carol Zachary, USA, 5-5-2009 “I’m eagerly waiting for the new Tirana and Skopje In Your Pocket guides!” Jonas Eklund, Sweden, 22-5-2009

Ukraine

Tourist information
Tirana’s Tourist Information Centre is on Rruga Ded Gjo Luli, right behind the National History Museum. Drop by to get information about the city and copies of Tirana In Your Pocket. See p.44 for more information.

Austria Switzerland Slovenia Romania Croatia Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo
FYR Macedonia

Tirana In Your Pocket © Albania Experience Sh.P.K. Rr. Elbasanit, Nd.10, H.5, 1010 Tirana, Albania Tel: +355 4 225 56 55 Fax: +355 4 227 19 60 tirana@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1587-2378 Printing Evropa92 Kochani, Macedonia Published 10,000 copies, twice a year

Editorial Editorial management Rentapocket.com: Jeroen van Marle, Sco Fact-checking Silvia Çaushi Contributor Rose Dosti Layout & Design Tomáš Haman Photos and cover Jeroen van Marle The TIYP team would like to thank Glenda Pashko, Stavri Çifligu, Ikuko Fujimoto, Marta Karwat, Münife Danacı and our good friends at Avis for their support. Sales & Distribution Manager Alida Karakushi alida.karakushi@inyourpocket.com Publishers Gazmend Haxhia, Jeroen van Marle, Sco

Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Tirana In Your Pocket 2006-2011. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370 5 212 29 76).

Albania Greece

Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands (Den Bosch, Utrecht), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Brac and Senj), in Slovenia (Celje), in Serbia (Nis) and in Switzerland (Zurich). A new guide to Minsk, Belarus, will be the next In Your Pocket to launch. We have also begun rolling out iPhone apps to all our cities. We will be launching even more In Your Pocket guides as apps throughout 2011: to find out which cities we will be covering, and to keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news and events, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Tirana In Your Pocket

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tirana.inyourpocket.com

Spring/Summer 2011

inyourpocket. Demonstrators attack the Prime Minister’s residence. Foreign ambassadors continue to call for calm. The largest lakes are Shkodra. Crime & Safety The well-being of honoured guests (you) is a major source of concern and pride for the locals . Other travellers need to get a visa from an Albanian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling to Albania. while there are coins of 5. but driving still requires nerves of steel and a good map. who invade again in 1939. 1000.com tirana. 6% is Orthodox. 15th Century Skanderbeg. The defence minister resigns. Germany. at 2751m. Uprisings break out over taxation policy in the 1840s. and by May 500. An estimated 100. Albania purges ‘reactionary’ influences. but Kosovo is given to Serbia. Bring a torch as even in cities it can be pitch dark at night away from the main streets. Albania is a bit larger than Wales or Maryland. shatters windows of cars on the highway. the Prizren League is founded in 1878 to fight for autonomy and against the partitioning of Albanian territory. ignorant about the merits of seatbelts. and always drive with the lights on. 2007 In June. blamed for allowing the pyramid schemes to flourish. Be very careful where you walk . In 1920 Albania regains independence. Apart from Albanians living in Albania proper. In 1968 Albania withdraws from the Warsaw Pact. causing Albania to break with Belgrade in 1948. Rather than being mugged in Albania. yellow vest and first aid kit in the car. garbage or dog poo. you’re more likely to be overwhelmed with hospitality. 500. and Japan can enter Albania without a visa. when most of Eastern Europe undergoes de-Stalinization. By the seventh century BC. Still.6 GLOSSARY Basic data Albania’s population is 3. 2011 January 21 – The political problems which to the frustration of many Albanians have been dragging on since 2009 lead to a violent protest. Albania maintains a hardline stance. At the time. wiping out the village of Gërdec (14km from Tirana). confirm your entry requirements at the nearest Albanian embassy or consulate. Their rule lasts more than 500 years. though two mountains of 1612m and 1828m also rise within the municipality. 7 Smoking Smoking is officially prohibited in public places. many of them deluxe Mercedes and Volvos. but in 1928 Zogu proclaims a kingdom and crowns himself King Zog I. killing 26 and wounding nearly 300 people. 1990 After the totalitarian regimes collapse everywhere else in Eastern Europe.000 Kosovars have flooded into the country.al. Semani and Vjosa. Yugoslavia. result in a landslide victory for the Socialists. That said. Geography At 28. no driver’s license requirements. Yet even after this. Although hotels and some other businesses quote prices in euros or dollars. Australia. Korabi near Peshkopi. and the territory of today’s Albania falls into the Eastern (Byzantine) Empire. 20. If you insist on bringing along cash foreign currency. Sali Berisha’s Democratic Party wins the national elections from Fatos Nano’s Socialists. the EU finally announces visa-free travel for Albanians to Europe’s Schengen countries. during WWI. hide valuables or leave them at home. Your passport needs to be valid for three months after departing Albania. which says a lot about the way visitors are treated in this country. After Russia defeats the Ottoman Empire. Visas & Passports Citizens of the EU. The Communist-led National Liberation Front takes power. HISTORY Money The Albanian currency is the lek (plural lekë). President Berisha. The longest rivers are the Drini. The exchange rate is: €1 = 140 lek. Easily distracted. Italy invades Albania. tries to absorb the country. 1985. parliamentary elections. The maximum speed is 40km/hr in urban areas and villages. they overtake in corners at high speeds in their Mercedes as if they were still riding donkeys. In mountain areas having snow chains is a good idea in winter.986. Banknotes come in denominations of 200. and a 40% increase of tax on cigarettes. 2005 In July. Albania cultivates relations with China. Although Albania is often touted as a majority Muslim country in the foreign press. dialogue and compromise to solve the problems. which were marred by many irregularities. with which it breaks relations in 1961. 10. Party head Enver Hoxha dies on April 11. plans for 2011 include stricter supervision with hefty fines for both the offenders and venue owners. there’s another kind of big hole or bump. 2008 March 15 – An accident in a factory used for defusing old munition causes series of explosions. it’s a good idea to apply the universal rules: stay alert at all times. OSCE monitors report that the elections only partially complied with international standards. Norway. always using one or two hands for talking on the phone and smoking. 20th Century Local uprisings break out in 1909-1912. 2000 and 5000 lek. beware the curious habit Albanians have of telling you the price in ‘old leks’ with an additional zero (so 100 lek becomes 1000 lek).if there’s not a missing manhole lid. hundreds of thousands in Macedonia and Montenegro. weeks of protests culminate in the toppling of Enver Hoxha’s statue in Skenderbeg Square. enforcement has been weak. 2009 In April Albania joins NATO. Albanians remain the worst drivers in Europe. Canada. Albanians proclaim independence in Vlora on November 28. Citizens of the EU. you can change your euros or dollars at banks and (better) at exchange offices in town. In June the faults in the economy become clear when thousands of Albanians seeking asylum in Italy commandeer ships. covers 42 square kilometres and lies at 110m above sea level. Tirana officially has 750.com Spring/Summer 2011 . People who still believe in travellers’ cheques can cash them at most banks at a fee and a long wait. payment is mostly required in lek. politicians shamelessly continue their blame games. On March 31 the first multi-party elections in 68 years result in a victory for the Communists. Greece. In 229-168 BC the Romans defeat the Illyrians and establish the protectorate of Illyricum. 70% of the population is estimated to be non-religious or non-practising. The People’s Assembly rescinds the ban on religion and on travel abroad in May. most other European countries. 1999 In response to Serb attacks on ethnic Albanians in Kosovo. 4th Century The Roman Empire is divided in 395 AD. Construction works around Skanderbeg's statue Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. On the day itself. the Ottomans crush Albanian autonomy. killing three protesters. The war turns Albania into a NATO base of operations. In 1978 the leadership condemns even China as revisionist and is left with no friends. and nervous guards shoot at them. In its own version of the Cultural Revolution in 1967. Iceland. In June Berisha’s Democratic Party of Albania narrowly wins the tight-fought national elections. no traffic enforcement and no traffic lights.gov. Australia and New Zealand may enter Albania using an ID card. Nine days later. when the Germans take over until their retreat in November 1944. disrespectful of speed limits. The highest mountain is Mt. Ohrid and Prespa. 50 and 100 lek. On December 12 the Democratic Party is founded. Driving & Roads The roads may be improving rapidly. though your home bank may. 1912. held amidst nationwide unrest. It criticises the Soviet Union. Spend your lekë before leaving the country as they can’t be exchanged abroad. only Party officials were allowed to own and drive around in cars and there were only about 600 cars in Albania. However.mfa. Check all border requirements at www. 80km/hr outside these areas. Before 1991.000 inhabitants (though the real number may be much higher). Albanians brought thousands of cars into the country from Germany. The election results are delayed after allegations of voting irregularities and three deaths. there were no traffic regulations. 2010 December – After delays due to dodgy Albanian passports.000 Albanians had fled the country in the previous 12 months. don’t wander around unlit areas at night. He cooperates with the Italians. students at Enver Hoxha University launch a strike. wages a war o f independence against the Ottomans starting in 1443 and enjoys remarkable success in keeping them at bay until his death in 1468. 1991 In February. Much of this has changed. a former art lecturer and painter supported by the Socialist Party. 90km/hr on dual carriageways and 110km/hr on highways. 21% is Muslim. this is never used to rip off foreigners. In 1925 Ahmet Zogu becomes president of the new Republic of Albania. city-centre traffic usually only crawls along at 20-30km/hr with little risk of damage. Canada. 2001 In October. Drivers should have a fire extinguisher. The Treaty of London recognises Albania in 1913. ATMs (‘bankomats’) are now easily found in every Albanian town. Imitating Beijing. and continues to organise many demonstrations. occupying Albania until 1943. and is heard as far away as Skopje.inyourpocket. When asking for prices in daily life. demanding reforms. NATO launches an air war on Yugoslavia on March 25. £1 = 166 lek. USA. Edi Rama. 2006 Albania signs the Stabilisation and Association Agreement with the EU. and do not charge a fee for transactions. After 1956. New Zealand. Bush gets a hero’s welcome on his visit to Albania. 19th Century In the 1830s. There is no longer an entry or departure tax. though we recommend still taking your passport anyway as airlines and officials are all too quickly confused. Albania’s first non-Communist party in the postwar era. the first step towards closer cooperation with the EU. there’s no huge increase in cross-border traffic. When the restriction was lifted. and an estimated two million in the United States. US president George W. it outlaws religion and closes all 2169 of the country’s churches and mosques.748 square kilometres. The money men waving wads of banknotes by the statue on Skanderbeg Square offer competitive rates and are generally honest. bits of sharp metal sticking out of the concrete. and inconsiderate to other road users. US$1 = 103 lek (Feb 2011). Italy and Greece. 14th Century The Ottomans invade what is now Albania in 1385. the authorities dismantle the statue of Stalin in Tirana. A political stalemate ensues when the opposition Socialist Party boycotts parliament after a ballot recount is refused. there are more than two million ethnic Albanians in Kosovo.a tradition dating back to Illyrian times. Switzerland.000 students of which nearly half attend the University of Tirana. The city has some 30. Novelist Ismail Kadare wins the first international version of Britain’s Man Booker Prize. Despite the obvious advantages. Communist Party leader Ramiz Alia announces cautious democratisation in March. Waves of refugees flee the country in March. Albania’s erstwhile ally. Italy and Canada.952 (July 2010 estimate). 1997 Collapsing pyramid schemes spark months of rioting and lawlessness throughout Albania in January. where he allegedly is robbed of his watch during a meet and greet with the crowds in Fushe Kruja. eager to honk. Reform comes slowly. In June. starting just before Christmas. Of the others. resigns. Before you set off. In 1914. th e Albanian leader. is elected mayor of Tirana and initiates a series of projects that change the face of the city. The explosions destroy hundreds of houses. and 3% is Catholic. stopping in the middle of the road to chat with a pedestrian relative. US. the Illyrians (the apparent ancestors of the Albanian nation) settle in what is now Albania.

+355 4 224 75 98. Aleksandër Moisiu 76. Closed Sat. periodicals and more at this centre beside the US Embassy. Theatre. org.com. Promotes Italian culture and language with cultural events and language courses. www. and read the English-language papers for upcoming events. the Metropolitan Theatre group (Teatri i Metropolit) and the Tirana Circus. 15:00. George W. Borrow French books or language-learning materials. www.al. built in 1940 to honour Mussolini on his visit to Albania. QOpen 08:30 . http://www.org. www. +355 4 225 75 28.com . Barrikadave 122. Occasional shows by Tirana’s underfunded but enthusiastic opera company. 20:30 and 23:00. One fine day. has a cinema with screenings of foreign movies every Thursday at 19:00 (and often other days too) during university term. tel. 15:00-17:00. com. tel. Rr. www. www. National Theatre of Children (Teatri Kombëtar i Fëmijëve) E/F-4. British Council E-2. +355 44 80 45 95. QOpen 09:00 . 12:30. +355 4 225 36 54/+355 69 204 42 37.al.teatrikombetar. history books. Closed Sat. In summer. 18:00-20:00. Sheshi Skenderbej. Admission free. The new Galeria Nasional mall on Rruga Barrikadave Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. Tickets 200-500 lek. Cultural centres Not only do these foreign-run centres allow locals and foreigners alike access to many materials. Goethe Institut H-5/6. The UK cultural and educational centre. Frang Bardhi. info@aftirana.al. Closed Sat. Sun. tel. Also at the USAID center. and support many events.al. Mostly avant-garde and student shows inside the Art Academy. +355 4 222 20 17. +355 4 237 95 79. keep an eye on posters around town. Sun. Millenium 1 will reopen in a new building in the city centre. +355 4 222 24 46/+355 4 225 91 04.al. Bush.iictirana. Palace of Culture. net.edu./fax +355 4 236 51 88.20:00. Elbasanit. and range from Shakespeare to contemporary Albanian and foreign playwrights.com. Performances take place between October and May. +355 4 222 56 97/+355 4 227 48 41. tel.gov. tel.23:00. Culture) H-6. QOpen 09:00 . Rr. Sun. www. q. info@britishcouncil. Murat Toptani. named after Shkodra’s famous Marubi photographer family.16:00. The German cultural centre has a reading room with textbooks and literature inside the National Library. Find the academy to the northeast of the centre. Cinemas Academy of Film & Multimedia Marubi Rr. info@imperialcinemas.gov. QOpen 08:00 . The Academy of Film & Multimedia. tel. Inside the former Pioneer Palace.aleancafranceze.org/albania.ida-millennium. Pjetër Budi 74. A cultural centre that hosts regular performances by the Tirana City Band. Sun. tel.esteri. near the terminus of the Kinostudio bus line. Once in a long while there’s a performance in a foreign language. Metropolitan Center (Cultural Center of Tirana) E-4.16:00. Millennium 2 Cinema F-5. Screenings at 10:00. Opera.britishcouncil. tel. QOpen 10:30 .it.goethe. Rr. Ballet & Popular Ensemble Theatre (Teatri i Operas dhe Baletit dhe Ansamblit Popullor) E-4. 15:00-19:00.metropolitane@gmail. there’s an additional summer cinema in the Art Academy. Sheshi Austria. Sun. Closed Sat. Occasional puppet shows for children in a grand old building.17:00.8 CULTURE Event information is notoriously difficult to get . Skenderbej 12. info@afmm. toap@albaniaonline. Rr. tel. Pallati i Pionierit. Rr.visit the websites of the venues listed here. Rr. Big Hollywood and 3D films in two large screening rooms. and two smaller ones at their slightly cheaper Sheraton Mall location. tel. fax +355 4 225 36 56. Kristal Center mall. +355 4 222 30 22.edu. Q Ticket office open 09:00-12:00. Book in advance for evening and weekend screenings. +355 4 222 47 53/+355 4 222 74 71.al. though everything is in Albanian. Sermedin Said Toptani. Rr. Alliance Française D-4/5. +355 4 224 08 56.de. tel.com. Millennium shows recent American films in their original language with Albanian subtitles. www. Rr. klaudjahila@gmail.inyourpocket.imperialcinemas. See the English-language website for what’s on. Imperial Cinemas J-5. Istituto Italiano di Cultura (Italian Institute of US Information Service (USIS) H/I-6. This is Tirana’s oldest theatre.afmm. tel. Closed Sat. Q Box office open 09:00-13:00. info@teatrikombetar. +355 4 224 72 85. Q Tickets 400-700 lek. National Theatre (Teatri Kombëtar) F-4. Ded Gjo Luli. Rr. the Spekter childrens’ folklore group.14:00. tel. Opera & Dance Black Box Theatre I-4/5. QOpen 09:00 . 18:00.al. Browse American literature. they are important promotors of international culture. Sheshi Nënë Tereza.

PHAR6U FLGBKDCW Xheko Imperial I-4. info@ tirana. www. tirana@sheraton. The lush garden has an astroturf tennis court. presidential suite €2530).xheko -imperial. fax +355 4 224 68 52. German or Greek) and ask about their back-up generator if you’d like the heating or a/c to work. www. +355 69 203 00 03/+355 69 203 00 09. PHALKCW Rogner Europapark H-5.hotelbrilant. fax +355 4 227 47 11. Infinity bar and the Sheraton Plaza shopping mall. reservation@hotelarber. Dëshmorët e Kombit. fax +355 4 227 38 13.al. com. and the fairy-tale suites with silk-draped four-poster beds are really rather extravagant. The comfy rooms are complete with TV and telephone. satellite TV. The comfy rooms with ‘sweet sleeper’ beds will suit the needs of any suit. and is mercifully quiet compared to many other hotels. contact@xheko-imperial. Q 117 rooms (singles €210. The Brilant Antik has large rooms and a traditionally furnished Albanian/Italian restaurant. +355 4 223 50 35. 9 doubles €140). Blv. Things have changed dramatically. swimming pool. with doubles priced from €150.com. PHARU FLGKDCW Arber E-4. doubles €160).agoda. tel. tel. doubles €250. Grand H-3.hotelarber.and even a wellpreserved bunker. and between the main square and the train station. tel. not just for the rooms but also for its reputation as a meeting point for locals and visitors. set back from the street./fax +355 4 224 79 96. There are less frivolous double rooms too. fax +355 4 223 04 57. tel. 20 suites €320). The most glam hotel in Comfort D-4.com. tel. overlooking the park. tel. Symbol key P Air conditioning H Conference facilities R Dataport F Fitness centre K Restaurant C Swimming pool A Credit cards accepted U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms D Sauna W Wi-Fi town resides along a quiet street in the bllok area. +355 4 223 32 72.com.com.com.com. A welcoming family-run hotel in a quiet.com. Rr. fax +355 4 223 31 23. and two excellent restaurants.com . www. PHALKW Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. Most are found around the bllok area. Rr. Room prices vary by season. reservations. Rooms and apartments are modern and spacious. The Arber has small. conference facilities. and some have balconies. Bardhok Biba 59. Minuses: a tiny reception area.com. PALGW Diplomat F-1. Rr. not on the erratic local star system. parquet-floored rooms and a terracotta terrace with bar on the roof. 1 sui te €150). Sulejman Delvina 61. double rooms from €90-140. tel. com. doubles € 60-90). chateaulinzahotel. Q 30 rooms (singles €120. Smoking is completely forbidden. com. L i n z a .10 WHERE TO STAY Until 1991. +355 4 225 95 75/+355 68 202 97 77. and the price of a good night’s sleep in both a top range suite is worth 500 nights in a simple guesthouse bed. The excellent Apollonia restaurant and two café/bars are on site. Q 14 rooms (5 singles €100. 15 suites €250-350). www. With a light Scandinavian feel and and enthusiastic staff.sheratontiranahotel. be aware that English is not always spoken (try Italian. Ko m u n a e Dajtit. info@grandhoteltirana. PHAILGBKW Cream of the crop Top-notch rooms. The open jacuzzi bathrooms are any girl’s dream. so check online. A huge hotel placed at the southern edge of the city centre. Asim Vokshi. surprises with its well-designed and modern rooms and cosy breakfast bistro. Along the road out of town towards Mount Dajti. the Diplomat has three floors of excellent. but for the privileged there are the two Club floors with private checkin and lounge. doubles €90). doubles €110-150. Ismail Qemali 11. the resort-style Linza hotel is a foreigner favourite for the sweeping city views from its hillside location. tel. click to couchsurfing.inyourpocket. Offering some of the best comfort in town at this price. Q 29 rooms (7 singles €110.org. jacuzzi and sauna. 19 d ou bl es €110. central location. Q 21 rooms (si n gl es €90 110. but generally have to be paid in Albanian lek. +355 4 225 32 19. and now a wide variety of accommodation is available. Hotel categories are based on the price of the cheapest double room. Q 11 rooms (singles €50. If you go for budget accommodation. This centrally placed hotel is one of the city’s best. 95 doubles €260. diplomat@icc-al.hotel-europapark. English is spoken. One of Albania’s top hotels.com. Jeronim de Rada 79.com. indoor and outdoor swimming pools. PHALKW Brilant Antik F-5. and its small size adds to its charm. 45 apartments €150-190). re ser vation. The hotel also lays on frills like an indoor swimming pool. The Rogner promises Western standards and delivers. For the full hospitality experience. with a health club. Facilities are top notch. Sheshi Italia. Once you’ve walked into the Grand. www. 6 doubles €150. info@hotelbrilant. efficient rooms. Upmarket Reasonably priced luxury. and it’s well-equipped for meetings an d con feren ces too. where a few dozen kind locals offer free use of their couch for you to crash on for a few nights. The room prices we list include breakfast unless mentioned otherwise. info@hotelcomfort. foreigners could only stay at two dreadful hotels in Tirana. 55 suites €380. with several good new small hotels and hostels.com. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. +355 4 227 47 07.com. +355 4 227 38 11. An excellent option hidden in the streets east of the Tirana International hotel. +355 4 223 31 51.com. www. Each room is decked out with stylish wooden furniture. fax +355 4 225 11 67. this first-floor hotel. tel. the Metropolitan restaurant. fax +355 4 223 50 50.makhotels@gmail. Q 12 rooms (singles €60. safe and fax outlet. PARLKW C h a t e a u L i n z a Q e s a r a kë .al.grandhoteltirana. tel. radio. Rr. playground and putting green . Q 151 rooms (singles €240. Prices are often quoted in euros.rogner. you might not want to venture out again. Prices vary dramatically. Rr. +355 4 225 11 66. Rr. www. PHAFLKCW Sheraton Tirana Hotel J-5. w w w. hotelcomfort. The suites look great with their stone floors. Q 25 rooms (5 sin gl es €70 -90. www.

com. fax +355 4 224 39 67. 1 triple €60. +355 579 22 115/6/7. suites €100). tel. but guests can also use a PC with internet at the reception.com. +355 4 222 28 80.Albania. Rr. Tiranë. and some boasting large terraces. There’s wifi. Along the busy ring road near the Durrës highway. broadway@icc-al. but although the view is not panoramic. doubles €75). Q 10 rooms (singles €100. quiet and efficient rooms and friendly staff in a small business hotel down an alley off the street. a well-stocked bar. Rr. Security is top-notch as the prime minister lives next door and his goons patrol the streets. but alternative vistas are offered by the elegant photos of cities around the world that decorate the rooms and halls. Tel. tel. +355 4 225 31 91. www. Rr. Just west of the centre along Blv. There’s a decent restaurant with a lush terrace too. al. some with shower and some also with a bath. doubles €124-142.hotelbristol.com. +355 4 223 50 90/+355 4 226 72 19. hotelferari. the owner’s favourite. for years Tirana’s main landmark was the only highrise in the country. with propaganda slogans on the roof and escape tunnels for the elite.com. Clean. +355 4 223 41 85. com. the rooms meet international standards and the hotel is especially popular for conferences./fax +355 4 223 23 72. This unprepossessing but comfortable four-story hotel best serves those who want to get away from the city centre.al. Now thoroughly modernised. Broadway has a Vegas thing going on. Go online for their special weekend rates. +355 825 55 92/3/4. with kitsch on all walls and a massage shower. tel.al. Bermon Rr. A glass lift whisks you up to halls decked out with pharaonic art. Modern and centrally located between Bulevard Gjergj Fishta and the Rr. the rooms are lookers themselves. doubles €110.al.com Rruga Nacionale Durres-Rrogozhine. reservation@diplomatfashion. +355 4 225 46 19/+355 4 226 71 19. Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha. www. Ismail Qemali 8/1. Jul Varibova 6. KM 12. PHARLGKW California E-3. Check out the fifth floor. fax +355 4 225 31 92. Breakfast is served in the top-floor Sky Club. Q 26 rooms (singles €85-110. doubles €70. tel.com.com Doro City D-1.com. PHALKW Broadway H-3. With well-designed boutique rooms. Rr.com. hotel@hoteltirana.com. Northeast of the centre near Mount Dajti. info@greenhouse. 1 quad €60. The hotel has 21 rooms and suites beside the swimming pool and gardens.com. Q 20 rooms (12 singles €40. bright ‘designer’ rooms. A small. www. There’s no arguing with the location of this place. +355 4 241 59 95. hosamnasr@malirobitresort. PALKCW Tirana In Your Pocket Saranda . www. PHARFLBKDW Tirana International Hotel & Conf erence Centre E-4. cupboards and even the ceilings. Bajram Curri. The views are uninspiring as it’s jammed in between highrise. Irfan Tomini. triples €105). tel. hotelbutrinti@hotmail. where you can check out any time you like.hotelbroadway-al. doubles €75-85. PHARLGDW Green House G-5. skyhotel_tirana@yahoo. info@hotelbristol.chateaulinzahotel. 28 doubles €108-120. +355 4 222 95 37. Don Bosko. very neat hotel with simple and basic rooms. PHARLBKW Elysée H-5/6. tel. www.com. PARLGW Dajti. 4 suites €120). while suites have sliding glass doors and separate seating areas. though there’s no lift to get you between the four floors. and especially the suites Egypped up quite impressively. Downstairs is a pleasant library and TV area. Albania Tel. +355 4 237 79 39. suites €138-198). fax +3554 232 07 49. www. doubles €50. PALBW Ferari B-2. An elegant and modern hotel with plush pleasant rooms that favour shades of brown to more frivolous colours.com . decorated in black and dark purple with touches of gold. PHAL GBKDCW tirana. This business hotel unfortunately only occupies the two lowest floors of the Sky Tower building. The 45 fully furnished apartments are perfect for your stay in Tirana besides clean air they offer plenty of privacy and full service. Q 13 rooms (singles €40-50. +355 4 223 22 06. Q 53 rooms (8 singles €60-80. with rooms in corresponding styles.12 WHERE TO STAY Diplomat Fashion Rr. Q 15 rooms (singles €32-60. Rr. suites €130-150).malirobitresort. tel. just opposite the Kinostudio complex. Q 20 rooms (singles €50-65. Nikolla Jorga.skyhotel-al. Q 33 rooms (2 singles €90. it’s a comfortable base. but unlike pre-1990 Albania you can also actually leave. 50m from Sheshi Mustafa Qemal Ataturk. triples €75). with friendly service and a top location between the US and Italian embassies.inyourpocket.hotelcitytirana.com.com. On the New York. Q 26 rooms (doubles €50-60). doubles €110. tel. fax +355 4 223 41 88. 8 doubles €60.hotelmondial. Q 20 rooms (10 singles €60. hotel_ferari@hotmail. www. Muhamet Gjollesha. Rr.com. Myslym Shyri shopping street. tel. tel. info@ hotelelysee-al. Built in the 1970s with help of the Chinese.com. It serves a nice Italian breakfast and staff are polite. com. tel. www. A small and charming business hotel above the eponymous restaurant on a quiet street near all the action. tel. california@albaniaonline. fax +355 4 224 70 70. Aleksandër Moisiu 12.greenhouse. Tel.hoteldorocity. Komuna e Dajtit. A different city on every floor. Q 28 rooms (singles €90. www.org. The higher floors offer great views over town and the mesmerising traffic on the square. reservations@hotelcitytirana.al. PARLKW Mondial F -1 . 45 doubles €70-110. offering beautiful views over Tirana while still in the freshness of the mountain breeze. fax +355 4 224 86 92. hotelmondial@albamail./fax +355 4 224 77 99. a few conference rooms and a small fitness and sauna centre.hotelbutrinti. great suites and wifi throughout. www. diplomatfashion. doubles €130-160). Mihal Duri 2/1. 3 suites €130-180). Welcome to the Hotel California. info@bermonhotel.tiranainternational. N°5/1.com. Emin Duraku 80. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit.com For your week end break Mid-range Good value doubles from between €50-90. It’s a few minutes drive west of the city centre. Rr. www. +355 4 222 26 32/+355 68 207 22 62.com. PHALKCW Bristol G-2. Themistokli Gërmenji 2/173. +355 69 20 30 003/9 www. Standard doubles are large with fabulous shower heads. PALGKW C hateau Linza is set at the foot of Mount city views Sky Hotel G/H-4. rooms have decorations on the walls. A quality mid-range hotel. fax +355 4 241 59 92. Sheshi Skënderbej 8. www.com. 6 suites €130).hotelelysee-al. and small but pleasant rooms contain generally matching furnishings and shiny bathrooms. fax +355 4 237 79 40. +355 4 235 64 02/+355 69 257 51 72. It’s a kilometre from the centre. Rr. www.al. www. tel. 1 suite €70). Next to the Selman Stermasi stadium.bermonhotel. Qesarekë-Linzë. Milan and Paris-themed floors. Doro has quality rooms fitted with plenty of wood. the Bristol has clean. fax +355 4 225 41 75. Rooms are modern and quiet.com. 5 family rooms €70). PHARFLGKDW City H-5. 6 doubles €80.com. Rr. Ask for the larger top-floor rooms with balconies when you book. reservations@ hoteldorocity. Q 166 rooms (singles €112-130. Q 25 rooms (singles €50. with king-sized beds and iron balconies.com.

tel. PRL Guva e Qetë F-5. doubles €40. doubles €60).vilaparkhotel. with standard rooms overlooking the calm street out front. on a quiet street and next door to the Brilant hotel. +355 4 223 52 70/+355 68 24 11 641./fax +355 4 223 51 55. triples €50). Breakfast 500 lek. Englishspeaking staff members are present after 10:00.therandahotel. 2 doubles €36). fax +355 4 223 59 56. Spacious rooms with attached bathrooms overlook terracotta roofs. Q 9 rooms (6 singles €40. the hotel is ensconced inside the ancient walls of Justinian’s Fortress. The peach-coloured rooms are decent but nothing special. a TV and a fan. Barrikadave 3/24. the Nobel has modern furnishings. PHARLKW Nobel E-4. Nd 1. Not far from the city centre. bright rooms. PL Spring/Summer 2011 Palma H-3. However. PHRLKW Lugano E-3./fax +355 4 223 91 70. Seven smart rooms in a small 1930s villa set away from the street. Murat Toptani 25. 2 suites €80). Urani Pano. Rr. fax +355 4 227 36 89. A small and warm little hotel in the very centre of town. The room price is the same regardless of the number of occupants.bar-hotel-lugano. but the rooms are affordable and comfy. Q 7 rooms (5 doubles €65. internet and air conditioning. Q 30 rooms (singles €25. A small. Q 8 rooms (singles €40. with decent rooms and a restaurant. doubles €50). There’s a restaurant and pleasant café terrace too. +355 4 225 19 35. modem-compatible telephones. www. modern and wellfurnished rooms. affordable and central hotel. tel. PARFKDW Briker D .com. doubles €70). tel. Stela seems a good choice. vilabelvedere@albcomport. Note that car access is restricted during daytime. and abstract art on the walls. info@ hotel-palma.tk. 1016.hotel-luganotirana. Rr. fax +355 4 227 20 77.com. A charming small hotel of high standards. www. tel. Blv. hotelstela@albaniaonline. cheerfully coloured and affordable rooms. tk. doubles €80. fax +355 4 223 52 71. reservations@hotelnobeltirana. An elegant 1930s building in the city centre with a green garden at the back to relax in. tel. doubles €15. PHARLGKW Kruja D-3.com. tel. florid bathroom and a balcony overlooking the quiet street. Rr. is not matched by its interiors. behind the pyramid. it’s perfect for business trips. Rr. it’s important to ask if the heating in cheaper hotels runs on electricity. The two top floor rooms are large but have slanting ceilings and only skylights for windows. www. Mine Peza 86. clean and quiet rooms with fridge. Tirana’s most tranquil hotel is set 100 metres inside the Grand Park. tel. doubles €60-100. fax +355 4 225 68 64. Q 12 rooms (6 doubles €80. areela@hotelareela. Rr. +355 4 223 56 31/+355 4 223 56 32.com. Q 12 rooms (singles €25. the Areela is housed in a building with spotlessly clean rooms and bathrooms.com. Kalaja amounts to a good budget choice. Convenient for various embassies.com. Rr. fax +355 4 225 61 31. Rr. clean and comfortable rooms. vila_3@yahoo. and if the hotel has a back-up generator in case the power goes pow. The breakfast buffet features fresh fruit and pastries. with a small TV. Kodrat e liqenit. triples €20). The excellent location of this Croatian-owned hotel. Q 12 rooms (singles €55. 2 doubles €33). Mahmut Fortuzi.com. Mine Peza. firenzehotel@albmail. +355 4 222 65 79. Rr. the Iliria’s glamorous lobby area gives access to the smart clean rooms beyond. triples €75). fax +355 4 223 30 96. com. all fitted out with satellite TV. one of the few to apply environmentally friendly techniques like solar panels.com. simple. +355 4 223 54 91/+355 68 270 79 01. Q 14 rooms (singles €45-80. +355 4 225 64 44/+355 69 202 07 57. it’s well placed if you need to pray. Small. Rr. 3 doubles €50).com. Njësia Bashkiake nr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. with tile floors. and experienced staff. A surprisingly good business hotel on the boulevard just north of the main square. and the rooms are all soundproofed.9. well-equipped for travellers on a budget. +355 4 226 65 82/+355 69 206 57 08. Rr.com. So are coffee and tea. miniri. www. Murat Toptani.net. tel.com. reservations@ therandahotel. www. The relative lack of amenities is compensated by the management`s eagerness to please. Q 20 rooms (doubles €80-120. PALKDW Areela C-4. There’s a top class gym and sauna in the adjacent building that guests can use for a fee. Q 6 rooms (doubles €20). tel. info@iliriahotel. 1 suite .Nobel ticks all the boxes. Best of all. tel. 6 suites €100). Rr. Tucked behind the Tirana International Hotel. klidbalkan@albaniaonline. Rr. Prices vary by season. hotel_miniri@yahoo. and the naughty soft focus photos in the halls are a nice touch. +355 4 227 37 66. w w w.inyourpocket. H 9. Rr. +355 4 225 65 97. info@vilaparkhotel. www. the university and the Grand Park. doubles €35. tel. PHAKW Vila Belvedere F-5. 11 doubles €50. +355 4 224 90 99.com. A small h otel wi th just fi ve rooms of varying styles. Rr.hotelareela./fax +355 4 222 20 23. It’s got a light and airy feeling and views of old tile roofs. Q 7 rooms (singles €50. com. reservations@hotelkruja. Q 25 rooms (8 singles €50. Q 6 rooms (singles €40. Rooms are spacious and modern. Mihal Duri Nd. tel. phone and couch. All come with private bath. +355 4 222 75 81/+355 4 223 42 80.com. doubles €50).com. suites €100-140). tel.com. a short walk southwest of the city centre.com Stela C-5. Zogu I 72. Mihal Grameno. Sami Frashëri 2. Murat Toptani 9. Andon Zako Çajupi 6-7. +355 4 223 81 06. +355 4 222 95 43. PLW Kalaja F-5. Q 7 rooms (5 singles €25. Rr. There’s only Albanian on TV but that’s compensated by the erotic art on the walls. 3 suites €65-110). www. Rr. Downstairs and on the terrace surrounding the building there’s a good restaurant and pizzeria. a short walk from the main square and just around the corner from a clutch of embassies. Fitted out with flatscreen TVs. +355 4 236 05 47. you can either share a room or be selfish and take one all for yourself. and laundry and minibar is included in the price. 2 suites €90-100). Rr.14 WHERE TO STAY Firenze D-4. tirana.com . tel. tel. One street west of the bllok area. Q 15 rooms (singles €60. the modern Briker has rooms with wooden floors.iliriahotel. +355 68 209 87 88.tafaj. Q 5 rooms (3 singles €29. some even with fireplaces. With its white tile floors and large bathrooms. vilatafaj@ yahoo. It’s located along Rruga Elbasanit. 2 suites €80). P Parlamenti F-5. PALW Haxhiu E-5. fax +355 4 236 05 48. Do you think they would notice if you booked a room under the name Kurt Cobain? This large villa set back from the busy road has rooms in gaudy colours with fitting cosy furniture go all the way and get the one with the jacuzzi. fax +355 4 223 81 08. fax +355 4 225 56 13. There’s a PC parked in the hall for guests to use too. en suite bathrooms and TVs in a dead-central location. red/white furniture and large blue-glass windows. tel.Q12 rooms (doubles €15 .net. tel. www. PALKW Miniri E-4.com. Elbasanit. Rr.inyourpocket.com tirana. Q 16 rooms (1single €35. This family-run hotel is tucked away off the main street and set behind potted trees and flowers./fax +355 4 237 17 00. tel. Friendly staff. The restaurant rustles up Mediterranean food. www. the rooms have thin rugs and small towels.com. doubles €65. Kavajës 96/2. where the modern rooms with their balconies overlook people strolling amongst the trees. www. tel. Dibrës 3. this family-run hotel offers small. Rr. The Croatian restaurant on the premises is the redeeming factor. Free airport pick-up. Jeronim de Rada 75. www. In this hostel-like setup. PHLKW 15 Iliria I-6. All rooms have a quality.7. Laundry service is included.ederhotel. indeed? Double rooms up to €50. tel. Breakfast is served in the street-side restaurant. basic bathroom.com. 3 apartments €75). Firenze has charming staff. hotelbriker@hotmail. Opposite the Catholic church. PHALW Tirana In Your Pocket Budget Why pay more. Qemal Stafa 391.Q 8 rooms (singles €40. Q 11 rooms (6 singles €30 and 5 doubles €40). PJL Nirvana E-3. as well as tacky artificial flowers. Recently overhauled. Some English is spoken. The self-proclaimed boutique hotel has two modern buildings (of which one pavilion-like space is used for meals). sparkling en suite bathrooms and wifi.4/5.com./fax +355 4 223 55 67. A very pleasant and well-signposted place on a residential road near the train station. Q 9 rooms (singles.com. Rr.com. Dibrës. PHALGK WHERE TO STAY www. tel. Taxis to the centre are provided free.com. 15 doubles €60-90. P Vila Tafaj D-3. www. Rooms are quiet and clean.com . Q 8 rooms (singles €10.com. An excellent. Opposite the Catholic Church. Belvedere doesn’t offer much of a view.hotelkruja. +355 4 226 50 24/+355 68 221 70 76.com. Papa Gjon Pali II.apartment €120). tel.hotel-palma.24 H. www. +355 4 223 09 30. doubles €40). modern hotel in a central location in the bllok. and face a noisy street. Rr.30). PHRLW Vila 3 G-5. PHARLGBKW Eder F-2. hotelnirvana@hotmail.hotel-nirvana. A decent business hotel north of the main square. TV and minibar. Grand Park. e Kavajës.com. tel. PARLKW Theranda H-3. PAKW Vila Park K-4.stelahotel. P Pike Loti G-6. +355 68 24 71 233. hotelnobeltirana. There’s also a restaurant and pleasant pavement café outside. tel. All rooms are equipped with TV and minibars. Perfectly located in the centre along a recently pedestrianised street. luganohotel@yahoo. 3. A shor t stroll from the main square and a few steps up from the street. just off the main square. play or get away. and a central location . wireless internet and a decent Italian restaurant on the ground floor. info@ederhotel. +355 4 225 00 00.inyourpocket. In winter.

tel. A complex in Mount Dajti national park offering wooden chalets amidst landscaped grounds and a well-to-do restaurant.turisalba. 2 suites €60). some with en suite bathrooms./fax +355 4 236 31 24. PL Freddy’s Hostel E. Eminently suitable for flashpackers. tel. tel. www.com. with clean dorms. directly to the east of the city. Handy for both the centre and the city’s transport options. tel. Q 5 rooms (4 six-bed dorms. facilities vary from room to room but all have private bathroom and TV. Jeronim de Rada 103. Rr. A large. this hotel is near the terminal yet quite a slog around the perimeter fence. Hoxha Tahsim 1. Freddy’s is just a short walk north of the main square down a quiet street.com Spring/Summer 2011 Tirana In Your Pocket . Qemal Stafa 277.com. turn down the alley next to the Brilant hotel. A villa in a quiet residential area east of the city centre has been converted into a pleasant hostel.freddyshostel. Pension Andrea’s four basic rooms with TV. breakfast is included and there’s bike rental for the intrepid. with a set of basic rooms with bunk beds.inyourpocket. There’s a kitchen (with occasional cooking lessons). The hotel’s ‘Aircraft Restaurant’ is the coolest you’ve seen in your life. old Tirana-Durrës road km 12. a/c and private bathrooms come with a lovely landlady. PHLBKCW Panorama Tirana-Dajti road. www. 17 Tirana Backpacker Hostel H-5/6.tiranahostel. tel.dajtitower. republikahotel@yahoo. fax +355 4 830 01 91. Expect lowstandard rooms with en-suite facilities that are bearable if you need to catch an early train or a bus heading north. tel. PKX Stephen Center B&B E-5/6. The suites come with jacuzzi baths and comfy sofas.com. PLBKC Bujtina Shqiptare D-3. The best (and best-named) of several options by the airport. PLW Milingona D-5.com. yellow 1940s Villa Karajani is home to the first hostel in the country. www. R6W Pension Andrea F-5. Good restaurant on site too. lira@hostel-albania.com. 66. in four locations across the city centre. com. but get a room at the back for a quiet night’s sleep. Rr.com. Q 20 rooms (doubles €40. Q 9 rooms (singles and doubles €20. doubles €50. private bathroom and adequate heating.vilaaeroport.com. and in the foothills of Mount Dajti. Q 4 dorm rooms (beds €11-13). Verzaci Rinas. the friendly owners organise regular day trips. In the summer many Tiranans trek here to swim in the nice pool. but air-conditioning costs above €2 per day need to be paid. Bardhok Biba 75.com. +355 69 207 91 33/+355 69 207 91 31. tel. Right here in Tirana. fax +355 4 230 22 34.com. info@vilaaeroport. Blv. Belvedere sits at 1420 metres above sea level and offers grand views over Tirana from its modern rooms. Rr. tel. lovely outdoor seating and several good rooms. tel. +355 672 78 37 98. The charming. +355 69 204 98 36/+355 69 226 07 75. A complex with a restaurant. a nice garden with an oriental lounge corner and indoor parking for 2 vehicles. washing machine. Q 7 rooms (singles €8. Q 4 rooms (singles €20. fax +355 4 222 50 14. and tables in the top-floor breakfast bar rotate around the windows. www. 2 junior suites €110.stephencenter. Q 6 rooms (singles €30. There’s laundry. Xhina Ballo.co. You’ll be surprised at how people of meagre means lavish care and attention on their apartment interiors. tel. and have wifi and a fully equipped kitchen with washing machine and fridge. Zog I. it’s the third door on the right.4. Rr. Karl Gega.always check that they don’t have a wedding or other party planned during your stay. km 22. PILB tirana. Note that the Kalaja hotel (see Budget hotels) has a few rooms that are available as dorms.16 WHERE TO STAY Airport Hotels Hotel Airport Tirana Rinas. at the end of Rruga Ismail Qemali. +355 4 224 82 32/+355 69 225 77 77. To find the unmarked pension. 2 apartments €150). Verzaci is a 5-minute walk along the main road north from the airport. N°7. Elbasanit 85. some using clean shared facilities. tel. +355 4 222 24 00. PALGKW Vila Aeroport Rinas. One block east of the Rogner Hotel. Limited English spoken.com. modern complex on the flanks of Mount Dajti. 18 doubles €60-100. Q 24 rooms (4 singles €25. wifi and airport pickup service too. dajtipark. alfredsalku@yahoo. bar crawls.net. just 9km east of Tirana and 800 metres above sea level. 4 suites €50-80). stephencenter@stephencenter. Free pickup from the airport. A garden restaurant with pool at the rear is also available for those simply waiting for flights.the downside is the traffic noise. +355 68 202 39 36. 24 doubles €100. Sheets and towels are changed daily too . tel. +355 68 216 73 57/+355 69 211 95 96. Urani Pano 9/1. Modelled after a big silver plane. A simple break fast is provided for beds over €14. When the cable car is closed on Mondays and during bad weather.it. tel. In a quiet location near the Parliament building.com Vila Toscana Ndroq. Bardhok Biba 73/1. 1 five-bed dorm. Q 11 rooms (7 doubles € 40. Shuttle buses to the complex depart regularly from the top station of the cable car.com. bunk beds and shared facilities on each floor. just down the quiet street running parallel to the tracks. the rooms are plain and basic.uk.com. km 15. Rrugica Anton Arapi.and three-bedded rooms (no bunk beds). tel.albaniantrip. Rr. Breakfast is included in summer. and bathrooms are ready for take-off with their space-age shower cabins. contact@ albaniantrip. Good budget accommodation in rooms spread across three buildings just north of the city centre. www. triples €60). enjoy the pool or let the kids romp around. +355 4 230 22 33. Republika C-5. Reception open from 08:00-22:00. PHAFLGKCW WHERE TO STAY Guesthouses Staying at a guesthouse means you may be sharing the house and some of the the facilities. 2 singles €30. Q 3 rooms (singles €15-20. They can be rented per room (with private or shared bathrooms) or as a whole. The fire. Guests can use the garden kitchen and terrace. www. marketing@ dajtitower.com/verzaci. tiranabackpacker@hotmail. set in green countryside at a short distance from Tirana. tel. info@dajtipark. Rr. doubles €30). 3 six-bed dorms. Q 5 rooms (2 eight-bed dorms. tel.milingonahostel. it’s parked along the road from the airport to the north. Q 24 rooms (singles €40.com.com. GW tirana. com. Tirana-Elbasan road. It’s good that Gianni is no longer among us. km 8. Near the train station. with solid bunkbeds made in Kruja. info@hotel-airportirana.it’s like you never left your mummy. so call for a free pickup. the Dallas-meets-Dracula hotel building has a small disco and large rooms on the top floor. A space-age construction beside the top station of the Mount Dajti cable car. Rr. Beqir Luga 56. triples €30). vila. It’s more of a guesthouse than a true hostel. But it’s a great way to meet the locals and learn more about how they live. as he’d faint at the sight of this garish pink building with a big green V on the facade. www. On Tirana’s busy boulevard. Q 10 rooms (doubles €10-20. bujtinashqiptare1@ yahoo. though keep in mind that you won’t get much sleep on weekend nights . www. +355 67 401 10 35. milingonahostel@gmail. PHARFLEBKDCW Belvedere (Dajti Tower) Mount Dajti. +355 68 207 70 98.hostelalbania. GW Dajti Park Tirana-Dajti road. pensionandrea@gmail. doubles €16-25). www. the Republika has decent rooms. tel. ‘The ant’ is a spanking modern hostel in a canary yellow building near the main market. tel.inyourpocket. Beside it. in several apartments spread over several adjacent buildings. panorama@ albaniaonline.toscana@ yahoo. doubles €15). +355 4 222 04 33/+355 68 219 69 03./fax +355 4 225 39 24. P Out of town Tirana’s playgrounds are in the green valley southeast of town along the road to Elbasan. com. and film nights.panoramadajt.com. PLGW Hostel Albania E-6. The rooms are basic but comfortable. 1 suite €30). the Dajti Park offers great views of the city and is a pleasant place to chill out. Rr. The odd green marble effect in the rooms can be endured in return for the stunning view of Petrela Castle on the opposite peak.com. free linen and towels . All rooms have cable TV and a/c.com. or you can drive up. 4 chalets €40). who speaks some English. +355 4 226 60 77/+355 68 203 52 61. Many modern hotels and popular restaurants can be found here. Rr. internet. Discounted rates for groups and from Nov-Feb. €12 per bed). +355 4 225 69 47/+355 69 209 49 15. +355 4 830 01 90. Q 50 rooms (22 singles €70. a garden and a roof terrace where regular music and film nights are held. Q PW Venue Park Mullet. PHALKW Hostels The number of hostels in Albania has rocketed since 2009.net.and soundproof rooms have bright colours. The guest rooms have balconies and are well-equipped. Q 16 rooms (14 doubles €60. 2 suites). anticipating the flood of smelly backpackers expected to scrounge through the country in coming years. guests are shuttled to town by minibus. www.com. Modern selfcatering studios and apartments sleeping 3-9 people. +355 68 328 66 66. doubles €40). The ‘Christian environment’ provided in the cosy guestrooms of the Stephen Center is available to missionaries and other travellers and consists of simple but well-furnished rooms with twin beds. www.hotel-airportirana. Inside. top cable car station. with modern two. Q 8 rooms (€12-16 per bed). PTHARILEK Apartments Albaniantrip D-4.com. The basement rooms are cool in summer. and some also have balconies. €12 per person). www. +355 68 405 85 29/+355 69 226 33 33. P Vila Verde B-4. Q 20 rooms (singles/ doubles €25).

Otium is a deliciously unpretentious place for a great meal.inyourpocket. Pilsner Urquell is on tap. tel. info@otium-restaurant. +355 4 223 50 35. it’s best to allow the waiters to suggest a succession of appetisers and mains. tel. but you’ll go back.com. +355 4 224 68 52. Komuna e Parisit. The dress code is smart casual. Rr. some typical Albanian gjel casseroles and a few “huh?” exceptions. +355 4 224 56 79. To find it. Where else do you find quail stuffed with ricotta and foie gras? Or lamb with almonds covered with pastry crust? Or a salad of mango. beef and pork are charred. without drinks: $ up to 500 lekë $$ between 500-1000 lekë $$$ over 1000 lekë Vinum E-5.beet.18 RESTAURANTS Albanian cuisine is surprisingly good and tasty. Rr. Surrounded by shelves with dishes. The food is traditional Albanian. Sun 13:00 . Sheshi Italia. spiced meatballs baked in a clay bowl. tel. Half an hour’s drive east of Tirana along the road to Elbasan. Sun 10:30 . feta cheese and garlic). in each review we’ve indicated the average price of a main course. Back to the mundane menu. With chunky wooden tables. Presidenti George W. $$ PE Taverna Argjiro I-3. £1 = 166 lek. Standards are often high. Sheraton Hotel. 18:00-23:00. all with great views of the surrounding valleys and hills. Luigj Gurakuqi. served with a smile. The classy first-floor Carlsberg restaurant in the Xheko Imperial Hotel is deservedly popular with the foreign crowd. amazing views and the classy White Camellia conservatory. plenty of wood. or vegetables. Rr. Ismail Qemali 33. and don’t miss one of the best chicken noodle soups you’ll find in town. or a soup made with carrots and orange? Even the bread is original . A step into the bar area sets the mood for romance in the comfy. Try the tavë oven dish served with Korça meatballs or the speciality. sarajet.23:00. unforgettable even after washing it all down with their home-made raki.15:00. which is famous for its serenades and spicy. Mihal Duri 22. tomatoes. QOpen 12:00 . $$ PSW Oda E-5. +355 4 225 78 05. The domed restaurant has a stylish setting. A fantastic setting for a very good restaurant. It’s often crammed. +355 4 226 99 31 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. Okay. With a nicely low-key decor of traditional art and costumes. with for example steak salad. petulla te fshjra. One imagines cigarette smoke-filled rooms sparkling with music. QOpen 07:00 . Sulejman Delvina. www. check the blackboard. this popular and foreigner-friendly spot makes for a good casual lunch or dinner. Brigada e VIII. $$-$$$ PJVBS Castle dining Kalaja e Petrelës (Petrela Castle) Petrelë. but we are especially taken with the steaks. QOpen 09:00 . or village pie.com. RESTAURANTS Symbol key P Air conditioning E Occasional live music G No smoking T Child friendly B Outside seating S Take away W Wi-Fi V Home delivery A Credit cards accepted L Guarded parking 19 Menu decoder Meat & Fish beef chicken lamb pork sausage veal schnitzel fish salmon sea food trout Fruits and vegetables apple banana cabbag carrot eggplant mushrooms orange peppers tomatoes Drinks beer juice wine water Mish & Peshk mish lope pulë qengji derri suxhuk mish viçi shnitcell mish peshku salmon fruta deti troftë Frutat dhe perimet mollë banane lakër karrotë patëllxhan këpurdha portokall speca domate Pijet birrë lëng verë ujë €1 = 140 lek. Then up the knee-cracking stairs there is a restaurant serving fish and a handful of Albanian specialities (pace koke.23:00. Start the feast with a familysize order of meze salads ranging from grilled vegetables to cheese for an ultimate Albanian village experience. Qemal Stafa 60. sitting on (indeed) ottomans at low tables in a reconstructed oda (guest room) in an old house. a mix of Mediterranean and Balkan traditions. 2011) Serenata E-3. with plenty of fresh fish and produce. Vaso Pasha. If you’re bringing hungry friends. The food is fresh and delicious (try the lakror në saç ovenbaked pie).23:00. Seriously. $ P Mrizi i Zanave Traditional Albanian Restaurant Era H-3. tel. +355 4 224 95 41. Dining in Tirana is cheap and even in upmarket restaurants a main course will not cost much. oven fresh and very good. Try lakror. you have the predictable traditional and contemporary selection of pasta. $$$ PABW Restaurant prices As an indication of cost. if your granny were Albanian. Presidenti George W.23:00.com Spring/Summer 2011 . walk east along Bulevardi Zhan D’Ark from the Tanners’ Bridge and turn left into the first street. $$$ PAB Mrizi i Zanave F-5. Rogner Europapark Hotel. leek. QOpen 11:00 . In summer. QOpen 07:00 .23:00. Rr. so best book ahead. Serenata is the home of dishes from the southern Devolli region.01:00. saucy and full fat food. a large flat hearty pie stuffed with onion. fish and meat. QOpen 07:00 . The restaurant/bar might have a tough time living up to glory of this 19th century villa wooden villa that once housed the legendary Toptani family. consider ordering a lakror. $$-$$$ PBS tirana. +355 4 223 20 78. Sat. +355 4 226 99 31/+355 68 207 44 49. the owner has a cooking show on TV. Abdi Topani 7. such as fried cornbread and fritters. One of our favourite places. $$$ PAVGS Emblema I-2.otium-restaurant. tel.22:30. a dazzlingly white classicist pleasure garden complete with fountains. so it’s expensive. QOpen 11:00 .23:00. Abdyl Frasheri. Enjoy excellent traditional Albanian cuisine here in modern surroundings reminiscent of a tavern. +355 4 227 47 07. QOpen 12:00 . Meaning ‘wind’. QOpen 06:30 . tel. with many members of the Albanian emigrant diaspora returning with years of experience in the catering industries around the world.23:00. The usual selection of pasta and pizza are available but stick to the traditional Albanian food. an open fireplace and walls lined with odds and ends you could be at your granny’s house. tel. the Sheraton’s Metropolitan restaurant has excellent Albanian and international fusion dishes on offer at international prices.com. $$ PGKXW Metropolitan J-5.hotel-europapark.inyourpocket.23:00. $$ Upmarket Apollonia H-5. Eat Ottoman-style in Tirana’s only true traditional restaurant. Sami Frashëri. +355 4 223 08 22/+355 68 208 49 00. $$$ PAB Carlsberg I-4. It’s hard to go wrong with anything here. the pasta dish that we had was excellent and we heard good things about the lamb confit. Excellent traditional Albanian food served in a large restaurant with nice photos of old Tirana (with English captions no less). tel.23:00. try the oven-baked saç meat dish. $$ PA Sirius I-4. dance and conversation. try the stuffed eggplant and peppers. US$1 = 103 lek (Feb 5. The colourfully-garbed chef in this quaint establishment deserves a medal for creativity. tel. Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Rr. The Petrela castle restaurant has tables both outside and in the little tower. Rr. This place doesn’t end with the rattan/jungle patio. The salads feed two. Bush 1. olive and walnuts. The Albanian food is excellent. Rr. a flat pie stuffed with green beans. Clamber up the steps to the first floor dining room and be wowed by fast and knowledgeable staff. QOpen 12:00 23:00. tasqebab). Find Oda down the first alley west of the market. $$ PLB Spring rains in the bllok area Sarajet F-5. Meat lovers will get their fill at this little bar/ taverna where whole lamb is roasted on a spit.24:00. +355 4 242 12 84/+355 68 602 50 36. QOpen 11:00 . Brick arches surround the diners. qofte Korça (meatballs) and even Austrian Käsespäzle (noodles with cheese). Next to Hotel California. But if you’re looking for a bargain. veal. while some of the country’s best cooks and waiters ensure a quality meal. Bush 1 Tel. $$ Otium H-3. Dëshmorët e Kombit. tel. QOpen 07:00 . the salad bar and the decadent selection of cheese. +355 4 273 08 89. centred on the town of Korça. and fërgesë (fried minced lamb. Apollonia excels in Albanian and international specialities. strings of garlic and peppers and old photos. and where paca and plendes (offal) are prized breakfast dishes. Rr. www. Rr.23:30. era_delivery@yahoo. creamy cheese. tel.com. If that’s not enough. +355 4 224 46 57. with flagstone floors.com. Rr. QOpen 11:00 . +355 4 222 35 70.com Rr. Blv. Set underneath a groovy wave roof. with additional outdoor seating in the lush hotel garden. figs and walnuts that tastes great. www. Near the corner with Rr. tel. tel. reservime@sarajet.23:00. Xheko Imperial Hotel. and live music on weekends. +355 69 208 81 38/+355 68 231 83 33. QOpen 11:30 . head for the open-air rooftop restaurant.24:00. herbs and spices or tave me qofte. Mrizi i Zanave restaurant is named after Gjerg j Fishta’s Renaissance-era sonnet book Valley of Goddesses. QOpen 07:00 . $$$ Albanian Bantia H-4. Recommended. com. tel. cosy crevices of leather couches. +355 69 207 26 56. Rr. Near the Dinamo stadium. tel.

Rr. +355 4 226 99 47. kindly translated by the US embassy staff. friendly service and nargila pipes. Vila Toscana has everything you need for a successful business meeting or conference. salads. A favourite for expats and visitors alike. and visit a restaurant that doesn’t do menus. but you can’t have everything. The menu has well over 100 options (including a set of Albanian choices for insecure locals). Find Da Shang Hai signposted down an small alley near the Sheko Imperial hotel. This converted house has rustic seating inside. Pallati i Pionierit. but nothing more. 048 301 230/1. It’s only a little place so booking is advisable for dinner. QOpen 08:00 . this pan-Asian restaurant has elements of many Oriental cultures reflected in both the design and the menu. $$ PAVEBS Millennium F-5.24:00. It’s all good. +355 4 226 55 98. Dervish Hima. tel. $$ PAS London D-4. Marie Therese Marchal. Sat 24 hours. What a pleasant spot to meet friends and enjoy a sufllaqe or Spanish paella.20 RESTAURANTS Vila 31 E-2. moon gates and fish tanks.4. consistently fresh food even when the daily special is not very special. QOpen 11:30 . fountains and a playground. an oven dish with meat and cheese.23:00. www. Rr. in this airy beige and white Mediterranean bar café in a converted villa. Q $-$$ PB Asian Da Shang Hai I-4. $$ PAB King House I-4.. pizza and other snacks.com. QOpen 07:00 . Rr.toscana@yahoo.net. +355 4 227 19 87. The set menus with 5-8 dishes are good value. N°51. +355 4 223 0151/+355 67 203 12 03. fish and meats all fall into the normal realm of expectation. tel. with kebabs. fax 048 301 232 vila.com. A charming rural-style restaurant in the big city. $ PVSW A great escape from Tirana. QOpen 11:00 . $ PVBS Shang Hai F-5.23:00. central. filter coffee.17:00. There’s friendly service and a full range of chicken. Here’s a simple. tel. tel. lokaliviva@live. The café tries hard to be so very French. For something local. tel. The English-language menu. or try the Elbasan version.com. Fri. 19:00-23:00. Decent international dining in a modern space above the cinema. Good and affordable Chinese food is offered at Tirana’s second Shang Hai restaurant. There’s nothing outstanding about the King House. Rr. The service is lovely. $$ PABS French Patisserie Française G/H.01:00. You’re greeted on the white terrace by a Japanese stone lantern overlooking a gurgling stream. Pastarella H-5. fabulous fruit tarts and even the French accent of its charming owner.inyourpocket. on the terrace or for take-away. +355 4 25 13 36. tree-shaded garden beside the river. all available in the dining hall.24:00. kinghouse@king-house. tel. bar and restaurant in the complex will not disappoint! International Billionaire G-5. just reliably good Albanian and Italian food served in pleasant surroundings by friendly and attentive staff. lists a good value set menu deal as well as several fish dishes.22:30. $$-$$$ PAVBS Mimi I-5. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Asim Zeneli 6. Situated on one of the few streets in central Tirana still lined with old-fashioned villas. garden fragrances twittering birds in summer. Billionaire adds to the atmosphere by providing a restful terrace and garden where you can smell the flowers as you sip your drink or dine on mainly Italian food. oversized cocoa cups. tel. Piazza was Tirana’s first truly elegant restaurant. Home of the informal Friday night Tirana expat meeting. rest. QOpen 07:00 . Mexican and Chinese food. Pjetër Bogdani. +355 4 226 93 16.23:30. Piazza serves sandwiches. just the way the Chinese like it. all cooked fresh. brioche and baguette. +355 4 225 55 59. +355 4 224 63 76. tel. excellent meat. piazzatirana@yahoo.lulishte1maji. order the tave dheu. events spaces.22:00. Zogu I. Near the Xheko Imperial hotel. Mustafa Matohiti 18. From Rruga Kavajës walk down Rruga Naim Frashëri and look for the sign down the the fourth alley on your right. tel. superb desserts and all at reasonable prices. Rr. QOpen 10:00 . An unusually named Chinese restaurant near the Qemal Stafa stadium. Jul Varibova 13. QOpen 09:00 . +355 4 227 37 16. The food is honest peasant fare such as grilled meat and ribs of lamb.. Wandering Brits should feel right at home here in this small Albanian corner of Blighty. down to the décor. +355 4 227 19 38.co. Or the brain cutlets. 25/1. $$ Piazza E-4. QOpen 07:00 .net. Murat Toptani. Bush.23:00. +355 4 223 88 51/+355 69 207 00 81. Sheshi Harry Truman. if not professional. info@ lulishte1maji. where British and Italian food is served.com Amor F-1. Presidenti George W. QOpen 11:00 . with the tave Vila 31 (an oven-baked pot of cheese. tel. QOpen 12:00 . palm trees and a fountain and is a better choice than the slightly tacky indoor area. The seafood specialities include calamari and shrimps. vegetables and egg for 350 lek) as the standout choice. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit 1. $$ PABS tirana. with a glass pavilion surrounded by greenery. www. Rr.22:00. $$ Far East H-5. while inside it’s all Chinese woodwork. Rr. Rr. Rr. It’s all very clean. king-house. tel. QOpen 07:00 . and is still a great spot to kill time and watch people. a few Greek dishes. tel. and in summer tables below the vines in the shady courtyard. QOpen 12:00 . $$ PGS Viva H-4. Don’t miss the chocolate mousse. tel. tel. A large. Rr. The menu has everything from sushi (from 600 lek) to Indonesian satay beef and a Korean-style sizzler barbecue. Blv. Part of a Greek restaurant chain. Rr.uk. No menu here. There’s pasta and pizza at low prices and a large red building housing the culinary equivalent of the UN. +355 4 223 07 06/+355 69 403 03 00. The terrace is screened from the traffic by flower beds. tel. The hotel rooms. affordable home cooking restaurant that pleases all with good food. +355 4 224 15 73/+355 69 407 81 06. Great home made pasta.23:00. found beyond a set of carved wooden pillars in a courtyard opposite the Millennium 2 cinema. the Salade Nicoise. $$$ PASW Tirana In Your Pocket Rruga e Vjeter Tiranë-Durrës km 12 (500m from the Peza monument) Tel. +355 4 225 70 12/+355 69 218 70 81.24:00. Closed Sun. Pastas. Rr. just what the chef/owner decides to make that day. +355 4 227 81 41/+355 69 20 83 317.com.com. pork. tava kosi that’s with yoghurt. Rr. QOpen 12:00 . noodle and beef standards. if not just a cup of coffee or a glass of cognac. QOpen 08:00 . $$ PAGS Lulishte 1 Maji F-5/6. Murat Toptani. Gjon Muzaka 31. Vila Toscana . $ PVBS No menu Let go of those old-fashioned certainties.london@yahoo.23:00. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. or even as a quiet place to stay while visiting Albania's capital city. Good Chinese food served in wonderfully chintzy surroundings. a weekend away. a party. shared by four restaurants. Muhamet Gjollesha.

a returnee from London. Jackie. +355 4 224 44 13/+355 69 207 64 54. baked duck. Mexican. +355 4 228 03 28. Come on a warm night and dine al fresco in the glow of the pyramid. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. QOpen 07:00 . Brigada VIII.plastered on the walls.24:00. Blv. QOpen 07:00 . odd flags. Rr. tel.com.com. +355 68 230 88 08. QOpen 08:00 . Right beside the dictator’s old villa.24:00. +355 4 450 17 17. A lovely Alpine-style wooden restaurant with excellent views over Tirana. oven dishes. 2011) Steakhouse G-4. Who’ll convince the UN and NGOs hogging the other lovely villas on this street to make way for progress? QOpen 19:00 . Dëshmorët e Kombit. +355 4 225 93 77/+355 69 404 45 57. tel. +355 4 227 12 98/+355 68 202 38 25. Asim Zeneli 9.com Spring/Summer 2011 . and a stylish restaurant upstairs. This sleek firstfloor steak restaurant is decked out with light wood and has a pleasant terrace overlooking the park. www. $$ PABW 23 Restaurant talk Waiter! A table for two Non-smoking / smoking Kamarier! Një tavvolin për dy Ndalohet duhani / Lejohet duhani The menu please Menune ju lutem I’d like to order Do doja ta bëja porosin Do you have vegetarian food? Kni ushqim vegjetarian Surprise me! Më befaso The bill. You might need a tour guide to navigate this meandering. You’ll find the usual international suspects on the menu. tel. Ditch the spinach soup. ext 143. $$ PABS Vila Ambasador Chocolat H-5. The restaurant serves Albanian and Italian meals such as fergesë me speca (a dish with eggs and cheese). the Beatles. +355 68 33 02 07.23:00. and home-made pasta. tel. People flock to this placed for the chimichanga and heart-shaped pizza. $-$$ PB tirana. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. +355 4 226 74 39.24:00. ina_chocolat@yahoo. e Elbasanit. Or perhaps just tuck into Albanian food and pizzas. the wrap-around view of Tirana from the top of the city’s tallest building alone will be worth the steep price of drinks or the tempting 6. Staff is knowledgeable. A scruffy but friendly local restaurant/bar that’s best visited for its pleasant covered terrace.com. Is the food good? Sometimes. The Hard Rock Cafe décor in this popular café is as much a mish-mash as its unfocused menu. tel. QOpen 12:00 . please Faturën ju lutem the Dutch government. Asim Zeneli 7.com Rr. $$$ RESTAURANTS €1 = 140 lek. $$ Vila Amsterdam H-5.inyourpocket. elegantly set tables. Papa Gjon Pali II. Rr. +355 4 245 25 42/+355 69 208 50 55. this pleasant restaurant has great semicovered terrace seating where you can plot the downfall of Xibraku Rr. Logically located right opposite the Netherlands embassy building. Does it matter? Not much. for vegetarian viagra try the ‘aphrodisiac salad’.the works .22 RESTAURANTS Food with a view ABA Twentyfirst H-5. marketing@ dajtiekspres. tel. QOpen 08:00 . twentyfirst@ababusinesscenter. QOpen 11:00 . and a duo playing songs that remind you of Vienna in the 1940s. Note that taking photos of the view is not allowed up here. $$ PAES X I B R A K U R E S TA U R A N T ABA TWENTYFIRST Aba Business Center Rruga Papa Gjon Pali II Tel.24:00. restaurantroyal@hotmail. and is deservedly well known for the great desserts. The former East German embassy is a much happier place now that it’s home to excellent fish and meat dishes (try the three-course menu). There are several dining rooms. e Elbasanit. there is something for everyone’s taste. from country kitchen to its ultramodern bar. US$1 = 103 lek (Feb 5. You’ve got Marilyn. Despite the corny name.02:00. rock album covers . Twin Towers. $$ PALEB Vila Metropolitan H-4. $$ Sky Club G/H-4. $$ PABS Shakesbeer H-4. but also has a range of other non-steak meals. Phone: +355 4 24 525 42 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. Rr. Thailand. +355 69 4037054 Serendipity I-4. Germany (bratwurst) and even Jamaica. Asim Zeneli 2.com. QOpen 12:00 .22:00. Spain (paella). Count on superb service from the waiters. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit N°5. restaurants and conference hall in the plush hinterland of Tirana’s famous road to Elbasan. and in season also wild boar and rabbit. Great for a special evening out. though it’s worth asking for a table in the enclosed balcony room for the views. 26/1. There’s traditional and modern art on the walls. al.tripod. tel. Rr. £1 = 166 lek. Rinia Park. skyclub@albaniaonline. this nicely converted villa is the largest city-centre venue with a café on the ground floor and the terrace around. Among the surprises in the all too familiar menu are wild fish.22:30. If nothing else gets to you entering this cool leather and glass restaurant. QOpen 08:00 . Taiwan. multi-level collection of bars. +355 44501717 Mob. $$ PVBS Ballkoni Dajtit Mount Dajti. tel. with great homemade pasta and very little influence of pillaging Scandinavians. xibrakucenter@yahoo. Italian. xibrakucenter.000 lekë tasting menu designed by chef Ignazio Campanale. Rr. tel. the garden and its multinational menu. QOpen 08:00 . +355 4 222 16 66. Rr. $$ PAEBS Viking H-5. which includes foie gras and red mullet. Note that the cable car does not operate on Mondays. Located on the fourth floor of the Twin Towers. Rr.24:00. tel. QOpen 08:00 .ballkonidajtit. There’s knowledgeable service too. upper cable car station. Tiranë. and a varied menu. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. $$ PHABSW Royal G/H-4. conjurs up exotic dishes from Mexico. The cook. Foreigners will find a few traditional Albanian dishes to try. Rr. Shakesbeer is well worth a visit for its vibrant atmosphere. Albanian. The menu has items such as the Mosaic mixed grill and sirloin Angus steak. The spectacular view of Tirana adds sparkle to this romantic room on top of the 17-storey Sky Tower with its red floral chairs.com. +355 67 401 10 21.inyourpocket. tel.net. Opposite the Presidential Residence.24:00. Mediterranean. and you’ve got a menu with a dizzying number of cuisines that simply don’t fuse.com. this restaurant combines fine dining with a nice view of the main boulevard and the city skyline.24:00. spacious rooms. But if you don’t mind lots of stairs. There’s local grilled fish and meat too for those who want to eat closer to home. A good selection of wines is available to accompany a large variety of mains. QOpen 08:00 03:00. Rr. and the cluster of orange rooms have an intimate atmosphere.

but the prices are almost half those of its pricey neighbour. a pot stove. Just east of the city centre. Rr.com. Opposite the Romanian embassy. $$ PAEBS La Tavernetta H-4. $$ PALBW La Cantinella H-4. +355 69 224 18 34. pasta-risotto with a surprise or two in the meat line-up (roasted rabbit).com . while inside it’s all minimalist chic with delicate spotlighting. the courtyard of this elegant Italian grill house is a pleasant and quiet place to try a grilled meat or Albanian speciality.al. Jul Varibova 6.24 RESTAURANTS Delice offers a satisfying three-course lunch Saturdays and Sundays. +355 4 234 75 67/+355 69 202 98 63. tel. The focal point of this old world Italian restaurant is the open kitchen pizza oven. $$-$$$ PALGW Pirro Mani Rr. QOpen 07:30 . tel.23:00. as are the Albanian and Italian wines. Themistokli Germenji 3/1. and beats it by a mile in its slick presentation. tel. tel. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Set back from the street. Papa Gjon Pali II. The open kitchen offers full views of cooks whacking lamb chops into submission. tel.24:00.com. at expected prices. Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. $$-$$$ PALEGXW Al Brigantino H-5. The food is fresh and good. and wines displayed along the walls. Rr.greenhouse. nautical maps on the ceiling and a huge model ship between the tables.inyourpocket. A neat Italian restaurant with a seafaring theme . +355 4 450 17 20. QOpen 12:00 . The huge fruit salad is recommended on hot days. Rr. Skenderbeg. QOpen 09:00 . www. Otherwise you’ll find the usual pizza. Rr. tel. On weekends. Two famous local chefs. try the appetizer-size ravioli or tagliatelle. Famed locally for the Italian food on offer. QOpen 08:00 . +355 4 225 48 34.12:00. One of the first private restaurants to open in 1991 and strategically placed near the clutch of embassies along Rr. shqiperi@gmail. QOpen 08:00 . among others. Era. A large Italian eatery occupying half of the Taiwan complex. Taiwan complex. there are tables with red-cushioned seats. The reasonable Italian food here is complemented by an excellent salad bar.com. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. fifth@ababusinesscenter.restaurantnapoli. all fairly priced. Rr. Dorjan Belli and Ilir Ndreko started this network of over 40 professional chefs to work on improving local and international cuisine in Albania.23:00.23:00. $$ Green House G-5. or dinner which includes wok dishes. Durrësit 79. $$ Fiore I-5. Otherwise the main dishes (including goat) should satisfy a lumberjack. Mbi Coin Rruga Papa Gjon Pali II Tel: +355 4 450 17 20 Italian ABA Fifth H-5. QOpen 12:00 . and looking like any neo-rustic restaurant. A 1930s villa with a quiet courtyard hidden behind high hedges seems the perfect place to have Mediterranean meals. Pirro Mani is named after the celebrity owner and has no arsonist links whatsoever. Here you’ll want to stay for the smoothies or the bargain breakfast or bistro lunch. tel. This bar and restaurant is Twentyfirst’s little sister. +355 67 262 35 56/+355 69 203 39 22. Napoli is a good spot for diplomats and other passersby. Alas. tel. levrek and barbun. www. the service can be numbingly slow. Brigada VIII.02:00. tel. +355 4 222 26 32. Ali Demi 131. QOpen 12:00 . +355 4 225 11 75/+355 4 225 11 78. Rr. The outside seating area has a tropical feel to it. Ismail Qemali 2. medallions.al. accompanied by a good selection of wines. Blv. Its scrumptious pizzas and seafood are conjured up by a chef who trained in Italy. spinning pizza dough or preparing the “capricious fish salad”. tel.23:00. $-$$ PAB ABA Fifth Aba Business Center. food is served only at lunchtime. and although their efforts result in fine dishes. call in advance to check it’s not booked full. tel. +355 4 223 15 67. federata. +355 4 223 63 94. +355 69 207 00 82.24:00. $$ P Napoli D-2. $$ PABSW Cooks United Albanian Federation of Cooks (Federata e Kuzhinierëve Shqiptarë) Tirana.24:00. Q V Delice H-3.paintings. +355 4 226 49 56/+355 68 207 75 73. If you want to taste and not gorge on pasta. $$ P Casa di Pasta G-4. QOpen 12:00 . large spoons and lutes. Rr.kuzhinierve. on the fifth floor above the Coin Gallery. QOpen 12:00 . while the rustic interior is also capable of holding a wedding party or two. Rr. Dervish Hima 4. Lurking in a cellar below a modern high-rise lies this rustic Albanian tavern with wooden beams. Its grand patio gives patrons a bird’s eye view of the Qemal Stafa football stadium as well as a spectacular three-corner panorama of Tirana. and to organise culinary charity events. www. Inside. There’s a large seating area in the garden.kompleksitaiwan.24:00. QOpen 12:00 . but customers head for the fish display case where the catch includes jumbo shrimp.

24:00.com to let us know your favourites so we can draw up the shortlist for voting. If weather allows. do try the tasty Künefe-kadayif (pastry with cheese) dessert.24:00. QOpen 11:00 . the elegant interiors are great for long Albanian lunches or dinners. imaginatively named La Voglia 2. Named after a beautiful river in southern Albania. but who cares? QOpen 12:00 . Albania’s first Japanese restaurant is so well-hidden. A food court inside the mall attached to the Sheraton hotel. $ PBSW Loro Borici I-5. tel. www. QOpen 08:00 .23:00. Prices are very reasonable for the feast you’ll get. Q Open 24hrs. merluc.24:00. QOpen 12:00 . www. km 5. These fine purveyors of Italian and Albanian specialities. Friday and Saturday evening. Chicken I-4. It’s that good. A modern seafood restaurant in the blloku fitted out rustic-style. $-$$ Vila Logoreci I/J-3.com. +355 4 224 06 54. Italian and Asian. $ PAVBS Vila 12 G/H-5. Excellent pizza. or sink your teeth into sweet sticky baklava pastries. both located in one building. $$ PAEBSW Kolonat I-5. QOpen 10:00 . tel. Excellent dining in large rooms. Sheraton Plaza Mall. chips and pizza. +355 4 227 35 55. calamari. Rr. and it’s cooked as you like it. try the raw fish with radish. Mustafa Matohiti 12. this restaurant serving original kuzhina turke is worth the short walk west from the centre. $-$$$ PALVBSW Rozafa E-5. nargil pipes and other nicknacks. and the place is nicely decorated with kilim carpets.24:00. instruments. There’s live piano music every Wednesday. sit outside on the nice terrace with interesting views of the ragged arse of the Qemal Stafa stadium. Besides kebabs and pita dishes. $-$$ PAVS Japanese Yamato I-4. barbun.sofraeariut.23:00. QOpen 07:00 . What is your favourite place in Tirana for local food. La Voglia draws a chic young Albanian crowd to the restaurant occupying a square that is the closest thing that Tirana has to an Italian piazza. It’s as if the Ottomans never left.though the exact menu depends on which fish were netted that morning. you get the best of both at this somewhat run-down joint now considered numero uno among fish lovers. with three cuisines on offer: Mexican. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit and Rr. The second most popular fast-food chain in town has burgers. You can also get decent chips and kebabs here. $$ PALBSW Seafood Magic Blue H-4.24:00. and is popular with the locals for festive events. Rr. unmarked above the Euromax supermarket in the QTU City mall. Just across the square. The hot choc fondant cake is a worthy dessert. The grand building set on the edge of the park offers two floors with a big terrace for dining. QOpen 10:00 . $$$ PAVS The Best of Tirana The staff at Tirana In Your Pocket have had fun writing what we thing about the city's restaurants. sashimi. RESTAURANTS Venecia I-5. tel. It may not be fit for a queen. Brigada VIII. Write to us at tirana@inyourpocket. Rr. $ Tirana's top address for delicious. clubs and sights – but now it's time for the readers to make themselves heard. QOpen 12:00 . $ BS Turkish Istanbul H-4. +355 4 222 27 86/+355 4 223 91 14. See also the café reviews for healthier snacks. with or without the pasta. Durresit 240.23:00. Gjon Pali II.com tirana. QOpen 12:00 24:00.. +355 4 223 08 22 Mob. QOpen 06:30 . +355 4 225 82 38. There is only beer and wine to wash it all down. Myslym Shyri 47. Popular for office lunches and for a quick dinner. The Italian food here is a cut above the rest and the daily special is certainly worth trying. +355 4 237 29 04. $$ PTALB Big Bite I-4. A superb-looking restaurant in an old villa.inyourpocket. with cosy indoor rooms and a terrace with a pond.01:00. +355 4 225 77 08. The categories are. Tasty pizzas served in fresh surroundings.22:00. Abdyl Frashëri. The chef likes to experiment. DJs spin chill tunes outside in summer. Sit in the cheap and cheerful dining section or take it away to smear grease all over your face elsewhere. or the potato-cake with cod and mozzarella. salmon and more. that several locals have written to us to say it does not exist. Rr. or for a conference? In the next edition we'll have a questionnaire and an online poll. A modest-looking Turkish restaurant that nevertheless serves up some fantastic food. tel. Fish and pasta? Actually.com. tel.. Elbasanit. even lobster. Rr. in each review we’ve indicated the average price of a main course. tel. Although Albanian food is heavily influenced by the Turks. yamato@manetci. QOpen 08:00 . try the seafood buffet. Abdyl Frashëri 16. Bajram Curri.it.com.koc. tel. A gourmet fish restaurant that has some very fishy combinations indeed. QTU City mall.23:00. With fish and other seafood coming fresh from their own fish market across the street. non-stop. Sofra e Ariut (Bear’s Lair) Rr. Sheshi Italia. you can choose between superb cheap seafood or superb expensive seafood at the two Rozafa restaurants.rozafa. But it does. Sun 18:00 . but the delicious freshly cooked rotisserie chicken is worth waiting for. It’s hot and it’s busy. QOpen 07:30 . Abdyl Frashëri. +355 4 226 66 66. levrek.com Spring/Summer 2011 . Rr. The catch of the day can be inspected fresh on a bed of ice beside the entrance and you can simply choose the fish of your liking.com. Resembling a Swiss chalet. Treat yourself at least once to the upmarket version (down the alley and through the wooden door on the left). tel. Vaso Pasha.restorant@gmail. a multi-talented salad bar and gigantic pizza inhabit a customised castle on the edge of the park. QOpen 12:00 . Rr. Love it or hate it. Rr. $ Sofra Turke F-2. tel. bars. Thankfully there’s also traditional grilled fish and lobster. this quiet family-run pizzeria offers a wide selection of delicious pizzas. $ VS Mr. Sheshi Italia. Best Albanian restaurant Best Italian restaurant Best international restaurant Best fast food restaurant Best burek shop Best pizza restaurant Best café/bar Best club Best cultural institution Best Tirana sight Best daytrip destination Best Albanian beach Best shopping centre Best business hotel Best leisure hotel Best hotel outside Tirana Best conference venue Pizza Bogova G-3. imaginative cuisine.inyourpocket. +355 4 222 00 00. Sheshi Italia.23:00. +355 4 222 68 18. Near the Martyrs’ Cemetery. no other restaurant gets as many reader comments (both good and bad) on the Tirana In Your Pocket website. Rr.blue. $ PB La Voglia F-4. tel. tel. +355 68 26 84 900 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. $$-$$$ PABS Spaghetti House & Fish D-2. Abdyl Frashëri. Rr. The cages containing Liza the bear. Also on (G-6) Blv. +355 4 224 71 90. Skanderburgers (named after the national hero) and ‘Big Supreme’ menus on the menu here. one of the many kebab dishes. Try the Turkish lahmaxhun pizza. $$ PAB 27 Restaurant prices As an indication of cost. tel. QOpen 09:00 . +355 4 225 51 27. piled high with more tentacles and suckers that you can count. without drinks: $ up to 500 lekë $$ between 500-1000 lekë $$$ over 1000 lekë Juvenilja Castelo J-6. shrimps. QOpen 09:00 . tel. The main outlet is a large tent wedged behind the colonade at the southern end of the boulevard. Rr. but they’re housed in better conditions than animals in the local zoo. Named for one of Albania`s best-known soccer players. some monkeys. Queen Park Tirana-Elbasan road. +355 4 223 32 33. Luigj Gurakuqi 89. +355 4 224 79 23/+355 69 208 80 30. Rr. info@sofraeariut. for drinks. vilalogoreci@yahoo. Those bored with Ronald’s concoctions may like the huge four-person superpizzas. Most fish is sold by the kilo at prices you gladly pay while gagging. Qemal Stafa 60 Tel. tel. eagles and chickens around the lush terrace may cause you to raise your eyebrows. +355 4 223 52 00. Rr. Closed Sun. which includes octopus. $$ ALEB Il Pomodoro Food Court H-5. QOpen 08:00 .23:00. tel.com. +355 4 227 29 32. tempura and teriyaki dishes made in the open kitchen . Reshit Çollaku 36. tel. grapes and strawberries.al. $$-$$$ Snacks & Fast food Concentrations of grease can be found around the intersection of Rr. for a snack. Gjeneral Niko Pushkini. or you could order one of the many seafood options on the menu. Albania’s first US-style fastfood chain comes complete with plagiarised McD logo and packaging. Sheshi Italia. Rr. It’s best to come early or avoid the Vila on very busy nights. but it’s certainly not bad. QOpen 07:00 . the restaurant has a another outlet. this place is well known by the locals. +355 4 225 06 33.24:00. all-encompassing balconies or tiered-terraces overlooking the greenery. but also a great place for coffee and cakes. You choose the variety grade A or B fish from Albanian waters .24:00. Kavajës 170.26 RESTAURANTS Park restaurants Lining Tirana’s Grand Park are several large restaurants where you can relax in the cool fresh air and say hello to a bear. fresh salads. tel. and serves pretty decent sushi.24:00. and a full bar. Enjoy exquisite food and wine in stylish surroundings. tel. magic.23:30. kallamare.al. +355 68 202 10 23. +355 4 225 88 99.

QOpen 07:00 . QOpen 07:00 . northern and southern regional specialities. low cholesterol. Still there’s a bright future for Albanian cuisine now that visas for travel abroad are available to the citizenry¸ promising new ideas. From 17:00-20:00 on weekdays. mounds of rice overflowing with fruits and nuts like meteors shot from the sun.com tirana. semi-starved low calorie. PGW 29 Then there are the Albanian specialities that everyone likes plugged into the pizza pasta menus as if they were in harmony. Rr. E Book cafés Epër7shme G-5. 90 lek bottomless coffee.gregorys. tel.23:00. free snacks come with the drinks. Amen! QOpen 07:00 . Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit N°5. Ice cream and cakes complement the rather overpriced coffee. www. English breakfast and on Saturdays waffles. moussaka and pasticio found in restaurants everywhere you look. Near the corner with Rr. PBW Friend’s Book House G-3. Delicious home-made cakes and sweet chocolatey things served in a restaurant that also has various Italian dishes on the menu. QOpen 07:00 . The wonderful thing about returning to Albania last year after a ten-year absence when only green onions were sold in markets. but my taste for Italian pasta leads me to the cheerful. Hoxha Tahsim 1. For literary insomniacs: a non-stop bookshop. coffee. A good location in the Twin Towers looking out over the Pyramid. Pirro has a great shaded terrace overlooking the tropical garden. Q Open 24hrs. QOpen 08:00 . We recommend ordering a coffee. P Street food: sheep head Stephen Center Café E-5/6. Dëshmorët e Kombit. Twin Towers. Sat. +355 4 228 04 81.23:00. eggs and bits of meat or liver and 27 other Albanian specialities including stews originating in Elbasan.inyourpocket. a pint of hair gel and a clipped goatee. and other hobnobbing foreigners. QOpen 07:00 . A lovely book café. Sami Frashëri. Mass immigration to Italy and Greece in the early 1990s. com.and it’s more than that. Ismail Qemali 12. A modern coffee and sandwich bar on the ground floor of the Twin Towers. QOpen 08:00 . Rr. tel. All cafes and bars offer espresso (kafe ekspres) or Turkish coffee (kafe turke). tel. Also on Rr. bright and spacious café serving fresh fruit juices and smoothies. QOpen 06:00 . just north of the river. Rr. www. QOpen 07:00 . Sun 08:30 . and there’s pie too. Also at the airport. Rr.com. sugar and flours as such.23:00. modern and airy. If you forgot to bring your own. Era. PEGBW Quo Vadis H-4. Juvenilja. and now that Albania is attempting to market-economize itself into shape.com. (600-750 lek). Ismail Qemali 21.15:00.23:30. a restaurant right beside the street. +355 4 224 54 24. had been purged from the cuisine along with other purges of Albania’s past. Bush. By Rose Dosti Artist Lounge H-5. PBS Pasticeri Twin Towers G/H-4. tel.23:00. was to find a thriving.com. shanks glistening with spongy layers of crispy fat. A popular café at the bllok’s main crossroads. The Rogner’s relaxed lobby café/bar is something of a meeting place for diplomats. The piano keys get tickled in the evening. QOpen 07:00 . Set up by evangelical missionaries who certainly know how to run a good café. +355 4 228 02 89. Pastiçeri International I-4. A boldly-named. Do such economic disparities and high cost affect the cuisine? One can point to the lack of variety and the tendency to be repetitive in menu choices as concrete evidence of its effect. info@gregorys. Forget the richness of syrups oozing like golden lava from the crisp layers of baked filo pastries. set off by 50 years of isolation. Dëshmorët e Kombit. this café serves a damn good cappuccino. +355 4 223 50 35. fake palm trees and a bar on the top floor.com. +355 4 222 16 66. www. Big windows and a bright interior with lots of light wood ensure that Relax lives up to its name. +355 4 227 12 88.01:00. QOpen 07:00 . “food” is back. Rogner Hotel Europapark. QOpen 06:00 . PBW Sky Club Café G/H-4. meatballs from Korca and. and you can while away the time enjoying the erratic spellings of the Scotch whisky on the menu. pizza. Recommended for a healthy snack or lunch. Q Open 24 hours. friendbookhouse@yahoo. The only Starbucks-type place in town is Gregory’s. Serving drinks as well as cakes from the ground-floor patisserie. All that’s gone. this is one of Tirana’s best. Ismail Qemali. the huge complex of bars and restaurants in the heart of the city. Ismail Qemali 12. +355 4 223 47 48. They’re hot from the oven when early morning customers arrive to pick them up by the bagful. Rr. gr. café and reading room that also has a quiet study room in the basement. NATO military. this place is bright. sandwiches. The children will love the small playground in the adjacent park. PB Pirro H-5. Try the fantastic hot or cold chocolate drinks. Today. +355 4 224 70 89. spinach and meat. Today there is hardly a housewife left in the country who knows how to make a decent byrek.com. +355 68 251 56 99. when the communist regime took over in 1945. Gurra e Perrise. Era. com. Perfect for an indulgent lunch. A bright café serving drinks and snacks such as sandwiches and toast. but there is a culinary comeback of sorts in restaurants. PB Delicious lakror pie All that fat. www. Rr. Mojo is officially a no-smoking café even though everyone happily ignores that. The deep red walls provide the perfect backdrop for the hip. But nowhere near its former culinary opulence.24:00. tel. electricity permitting.quovadis. heaps of French fries and pick on fish from the oceans and lakes of Albania’s rich marine life. Rr. Dëshmorët e Kombit. $ PGB Bardhë e Zi H-3.22:30. young and rich to do their thang. Sun 07:30 .the coffee and cakes on offer are pricey and no better than those at ground level. without much effect to the restaurateurs who understandably must watch their profit margin and clientèle who seem satisfied with the familiar items. There’s a pleasant terrace and a cosy smoke-free interior with a poster of New York’s twin towers.but it’s still one of the better places to go to get your sugar-and-coffee fix.com. businesspeople. burgers. pancakes. Sami Frashëri.hotel-europapark. It was a pleasure to see a whole lamb on a spit sizzling over flames on the patio of Taverna Argjiro. well-managed Casa di Pasta at Taiwan. a cosmopolitan meeting place for locals and foreigners alike. The only thing international about this place might be your presence . There are not many English-language titles on offer but you can always bring your own book or newspaper along.inyourpocket.01:00. PBW Relax H-5.23:30.gr. Sheshi Italia. inspired today’s cuisine dominated by pizza and pasta and Greek gjiro sandwiches. tel. qvo-vadis@quovadis. pasta. Happily.com . Blv. baklava or revani dripping with butter. causing prices to be high as well. More upscale places will also serve American-style coffee (kafe filter). A unique. And then there are the still mushrooming pizza and pasta places and Greek fast food stands almost on every street corner. Rr. one of the best eateries in Tirana. it’s true.if you can find a seat. Who has the best product is a matter of personal taste. that is. if you want to characterize a cuisine formerly rich in fat. PB Gregory’s Coffee H-4. tel. Rr.23:00. tel. Abdyl Frashëri. Albania. tel. $ PV Jumeirah F-5. Closed Sun. Modem and comfortable. sweet and hearty crepes. Rr. Blv. +355 4 225 67 50. tel. Presidenti George W. +355 4 226 65 90. bustling restaurant scene with people actually sitting in cafés munching on pizza or sticking their forks into mounds of spaghetti. the streets are alive with the smell of food wafting in the air. That’s also the main reason to come .24:00. www. And it lasted until the regime fell in 1991. pasticeri. The biggest attraction in ‘Black and White’ is the huge black-and-white photograph collection of Albanian artist Artur Gorishti. On Thursdays there’s live Jazz music from 21:00. Some favourites are Carlsberg. Mexican dishes. Taverna Argjiro and Xibraku. Groups: admission 250 lek/person.28 ALBANIAN CUISINE TODAY Where to eat Albanian There is no shortage of restaurants serving Albanian specialities throughout Tirana’s bustling restaurant community. though service is often tediously slow. modern coffee house overlooking the Kolonat fast food tent beside the stadium. even while grocery chains such as Conad and Euromax introduced such items as avocado and mango and strawberries to the marketplace. Sat 06:00 . as well as Mediterranean specialities from Crete and other Greek regions. salads and baguettes. Mustafa Matohiti. the bar has a nice rooftop terrace. PBW Coffee Store I-5. Who would think of ordering melci (calf’s lung). Delikatesë H-5. a traditionally agricultural country may be one of the last countries in Europe to have real seasonality in food. tel. Near the main police station. It’s a great place to linger over a cup of coffee and read the paper.24:00. Rr. the café kindly provides a selection for you. unfortunately with very few English-language titles in the shop section. justfruits@ hotmail. the spare. +355 68 213 86 41. fresh juice. The fresh panini fillings include omelet. The name means ‘suitable’ . The floor of the glass box on top of Albania’s highest building revolves slowly to give a 360-degree panorama of the city. chicken and Albanian-style meatballs and cheese.pasticeridelikatese. Blv. all that sugar and all that drippy oil. and other offal neither known nor preferred by most foreigners? But there they are along with ferges. tel. Named after a Dubai district and built with Emiratic opulence in mind. Sun 06:00 . pastas. Panorama. the popular Tirana speciality with cheese. There’s good coffee. Rr. Jumeirah is a threefloor complex with plenty of mirrors. +355 4 226 67 77.stephencenter. sandwiches. tel. QOpen 07:30 . once the stamp of 500 years of Ottoman gastronomic excess. probably boasts the best and brightest of regional Albanian dishes representing coastal. if not decadence. cornmeal spinach mush from Gjirokastra. CAFÉS Mojo H-5/6.24:00. Durrësit.23:00. salads.17:00. if not yet in homes. There’s free wifi. Big blurry photos and big lamps set the scene for Mojo’s hip crowd.14:00. Apart from newspapers and fast wifi.internacional@ yahoo. specialising in tea. Because a large number of produce that ordinarily might be grown in Albania’s temperate plains are imported. PTAGBW Spring/Summer 2011 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. Wolf down tarts and various other pastries . Find the friendly owners and their friends hanging out at the café section at the back. And who knows – perhaps all that butter and cream will find their way back into the once opulent Albanian cuisine. Tiny storefronts are places to find byrek made into flaky triangle puffs and filled with cheese. Jul Variboba 2. no-taste cuisine of that drab era is gone. QOpen 07:00 . and tasty paninis if you’re up for a snack. new visions and new products to filter into the society and its cuisine. Themistokli Gërmenji. low fat.

Bon Bon H-4. Q Open 24 hours. Sat 07:00 . tel.03:00.. QOpen 19:00 . The restaurant (summer only) serves good pasta and fish dishes. The Sheraton’s elegant piano bar and lounge is a peaceful place for a beer. Tue.com.01:00. followed by cocktails.02:00. Just beside the Vesa Centre complex. Pjetër Bogdani.03:00. there’s a good-value lunch menu and in the evening a selection of Italian. +355 69 207 20 71. Rr.. and some venues that we have listed as cafés or bars are known to morph into clubs on weekend nights. Vaso Pasha. tel. A small bar with classic green and red wallpaper and a great atmosphere. tel. Noel F-5.24:00. Lebanese and international dishes is served. Your place or mine? Where I come from. Italy or further away – usually at a high price for both the environment and the diner’s wallet. QOpen 07:00 . Vendi im apo I yti? Prej nga unë vij. 19:0024:00. delighted with the live rock music. The Albanian economy needs all the support it can get.all you need for a good night out. +355 69 28 44 24. and the cornershop location means you have views over late night pedestrians on two streets. All this while Albania has excellent and abundant mineral water. Rr. lighter . and when he has a headache the volume gets turned down. Beer 400 lek. You’ll know when the sound gets cranked up and long-legged gogo girls climb onto your table. Twin Towers.. In winter. B Rockwood H-5. but its less annoying than you might think..30 NIGHTLIFE Tirana’s nightlife scene is not bad at all. and several good brands such as Glina and Tepelena are on the market. Rock ‘n Roll I-6. ashtray . Pjeter Bogdani 36. Beer 300 lek. tel.02:00.02:00. +355 69 204 27 00. QOpen 08:00 23:00. just honest blues. DJs and bands. Note that Albanians prefer sipping coffee to serious drinking. Fri. Literally a cool bar.. www. Drop by Wednesdays for the hot Latin nights. drinks and mixed music styles . PABW Iguana II H-4. woman Where can I find a taxi? You have beautiful eyes.. A large shed of a place that regularly gets crammed with young locals. Beer 200 lek. tel. birrë verë koktell cigare çakmak tabak burr grua Ku mund ta gjejë një taksi? Keni sy të bukur. Closed Mon. tel. tel. though it’s the cocktails and daily DJ parties that interest the majority of visitors. that’s illegal. country and the odd rock ‘n roll song. The Code is a spacious arched bar with a library corner. Owners Denis and Nardi work hard to make this a welcoming spot and Flares is justifiably popular with locals and expats. tel. +355 69 202 27 92. man . tel.charlsbistro. Ku ndodhet klubi më I afërt? Dua një …. Blv.24:00. just relax and enjoy the modern Albanian art on display. Cameleon’s novelty is the ever-changing display of multi-coloured lights throughout the evening. Thu.23:00. bars and clubs (and indeed workplaces) in Albania. Pjetër Bogdani. W Bars Alfa Club D-4/5. and chances are that you’ll get sparkling water that was shipped all the way from France. Closed Sun. Beer 100 lek. Brigada e VIII. and the owners Tani and Dani stress that everyone is welcome. A film lover’s den of delights. The students. Regular parties include the Jazz & Gold Hits evenings. Find it in an apartment building set back from the street. +355 69 541 81 80. Dervish Hima. The La Folie club terrace Flares H-4. a Guernica painting. as after a hot summer’s day the large rooftop lounge area catches the evening breeze. but the cocktail bar in the lush small garden spits out great drinks all week. Food on offer includes traditional tava and qofte meatballs.com Chilling at Steelwings Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. QOpen 07:00 02:00. with a nice terrace overlooking the fountain.com. Visit on Thursdays for the unplugged sessions or on weekend nights for rock karaoke and live rock and country music. Rr. Mercifully. Beer 300 lek. QOpen 07:00 . +355 4 227 47 07. +355 4 224 36 38. PE Meduza H -5. Vaso Pasha. it’s a relaxed place to listen to chilled music and chat. Beer 500 lek. . The somewhat oddly spelt bar regularly puts on live music acts from across the region and various other events from Thursday to Saturday. wine . Sheshi Italia. +355 4 225 11 75. The fun starts with the lively xhiro (mass evening stroll).. QOpen 07:00 . To the young students at the Davidoff.03:00. Rr. Official home of the Steelwings Albania Motorcycle Club and easily located by the multitude of cool rides parked outside. cocktail . QOpen 06:00 . Rr.. sometimes accompanied by live music. There’s live music on Wednesday. and this will help in a small way. Rr.01:00.. recite poetry or pin your own home-made artwork on the walls.com Spring/Summer 2011 . Tirana’s indie-rock youth packed in tighter than the socks in Lenny Kravitz’s flared rock star trousers. When the karaoke is turned off.17:00.. nardimuho@yahoo. Bottle of wine or whisky for 7. It’s a very friendly place. PB Radio H-4. Barrikadave 14. covered in old radio station logos.03:00. QOpen 07:00 . Rr. Beer 500 lek. A spacious. Presidenti George W. The usual drinks are served. Rr.. Fri. Rr. with a good selection of whiskeys to fuel the night. Beer 400 lek. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit.. cigarette .03:00. A large bar in the wacky pallati me birila building. upmarket bar on the first floor of the Taiwan complex. PE Living Room F-5. tel. Attracting a somewhat older crowd than usual for the bllok. Rr. QOpen 10:00 . Bush 16..24:00. Rr. with live bands. Rr. Leave your coat at the garderobe and sag in a couch to listen to DJ music. P NIGHTLIFE Drink ujë. with DJs sometimes dropping by to spin their discs. and foreign types are often the only sad souls knocking back the hard stuff. That’s when the pretty people dress up and come out in force to cram themselves on the multilevel decks overlooking the city. A good place to pick up conversation with young Tiranians. Pictures of lizards appropriately adorn the walls of this youthful first-floor bar. Rr. PEBW Code I-4. A lounge bar set on the second floor of the Twin Towers. tel. +355 4 226 51 30/+355 67 203 32 25. Steelwings (Harley Davidson Bar) G/H-4. Join TIYP in asking restaurant managers to have at least one local brand on the menu so patrons have the choice. Rr. P Converse G/H-4. with cracking cocktails. A mature crowd of culture vultures can be found sitting eating and drinking at tables amidst hundreds of magazine photos of movie icons and scenes. Rr. tel. Sat 08:30 . Sheraton Hotel. it’s all about seeing or being seen. Music Box G-4. +355 69 202 23 31. There’s a fine line between cafés. sofas and Tuborg on tap. tel. +355 69 202 29 01. QOpen 09:00 . smoke. One of Tirana’s cooler bars. Abdyl Frashëri. 31 Caramel Lounge H-4. and ends at the bustling blloku area. and is set in a basement opposite the Millennium 2 cinema. this rocking bar full of leather-clad motorbike enthusiasts is decorated with all the usual Americana. Let’s rock! In chilled style. tel.. serving endless coffees by day and playing rock and other music styles at night. +355 4 224 03 66.. artists and intellectuals that visit this tiny basement ‘social club’ to sip coffee and play chess seem the exact opposites of the loud hairy men slamming down shots at Steelwings next door. +355 69 209 99 10. in a narrow dog’s leg room painted bright orange you will find Davidoff Club G/H-4. QOpen 08:00 . A bar on Tirana’s most fashionable nightlife street serving the city’s best Mojitos.. Friday and Saturday with Salsa dancing.500 lek. fashionable thirtyish crowd populates this fantastic lounge bar with 1960s-80s inspired music in the bllok area. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. kjo është jo legale. Sat 08:00 . Rinia Park. a typewriter on a stool and a few antique radios scattered around. Dervish Hima. Papa Gjon Pali II. Rr. loungy music and views over to the Pyramid. and is improving fast. The large bar on the first floor of the building has big windows for watching the crowded streets and terraces below.. PAK Charl’s Bistro H-4. info@charlsbistro. QOpen 08:00 . Infinity J-5. English and Australian beers are on tap. QOpen 07:00 . tirana. Ismail Qemali 29/1. which explains the nervous guards telling you not to take pictures on the street. QOpen 07:00 . QOpen 08:30 .03:00. retreat to the first floor of the building with its living room style bar. The Prime Minister lives upstairs. P Canon H-4. Brigada VIII. very popular with locals and foreigners alike. +355 4 222 35 98. An eclectic. tel.02:00. Squeeze yourself into this bar at the weekend and be prepared for a singalong or even a star turn. Noel is appropriately owned by the director of the local film institute. PBW Lizard H-4. Q Open 24hrs. It’s a little hard to tell what’s in your glass when everything shifts from blue to orange. PAEBK Pub talk Where is the nearest club? I need a. or something stronger. Filled with students and others on most nights.inyourpocket. A hip young crowd.04:00. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Mustafa Matohiti. Rr. +355 69 205 13 78. no house music is played here. N°11/1. EB Cameleon H-4. Pjetër Bogdani. not aqua Order a bottle of mineral water with your meal. Murat Toptani. A small and friendly bar on the ground floor of a tall office building (also conveniently housing the IYP offices). Rr. com.. Rr. QOpen 08:00 . Fri.inyourpocket.. QOpen 23:00 . A compact and modern bar in a riot of bright primary colours. beer .

Sheshi Skënderbej 8. Rr. both inside and out. budgies in a cage and a tree lit up pink. Pjetër Bogdani. PEG of the newer villa conversions in town. tel. Pjetër Bogdani 8. PEBW Jazz Clubs Imagine H-6. A rocking dance club with a rather strange name playing house and dance music.4. Strictly a house and dance music venue. it has a fantastic outdoor terrace area too. Just east of the Sheraton. QOpen 09:00 . QOpen 08:00 .01:00. Sat 22:00-04:30. On the first floor of the building. Tiki I-4. QOpen 12:00 . it’s fun to sit outside and compare your waiter’s performance with the rest. There’s a terrific party atmosphere and cheap drinks. quiet music and a good selection of wines to sample. mumja. A fantastic Irish bar in the bllok area. www. Beer 250-500 lek. Hidden deep in the bllok area near the Conad supermarket. A wine-lovers’ café run by a sommelier .02:30. PW Stylus Club Marriott H-4. local and foreign artists play live. Rr. Accompany these with salty titbits and Albanian cheeses. www. Lit by candlesticks in empty bottles. head to this vinoteka where they aim for a more mature clientèle. Watch the posters for their themed nights. Rr. Sat 08:30 04:00. Vaso Pasha. +355 68 601 11 11. Tirana’s only reggae bar is a basic. Admission is free. +355 68 609 22 22.com.24:00. A cheerful wine bar appropriately hung with empty bottles. tel. Exclusive Armagnac brandy is also served at €1500 a bottle or a mere €150 per glass. Pjetër Bogdani 36. Q Open Fri. this is one of Tirana’s better wine bar/restaurants. Unit Bar H-4. Mumja is a hopping club playing a wide variety of music on weekend nights to a wild crowd of students. overlooked by a portrait of Napoleon.QOpen 11:30 . QOpen 24 hrs. Vogue is the trendiest of the lot. a ropey ship-theme dominates the two-storey interior. Just east of the centre. tel. The club is northeast of the centre near Rruga Qemal Stafa. Originally located in the pyramid (hence the name) and now near the Millennium cinema. lollipoptirana@gmail. With a glass-fronted facade. with occasional stage shows and live music. and palm leaf parasols shade the cocktail-sipping patrons from the Albanian sun. PGB Pubs The In Your Pocket app.32 NIGHTLIFE Wine bars Sophisticated interiors. with the latest Turbofolk (traditional Balkan music on speed) blasted at a happy crowd. Sheshi Italia. Perlat Rexhepi. Spanish. com. Admission on concert nights 1. Imagine is pleasant enough for some late-night drinking. of which Kajoshi is worth a try. Sharm Club I-5. Rr. +355 4 228 01 42.sharm-club. tell the cabbie it’s near Profarma. Europe’s best city guides. Tirana International Hotel. and there’s an alternative live band playing every few weeks. Sat 08:00 . see. tel. Rr. Rr. tel.4. PE Wine Spirit I-3. PB Alehandro H/I-4. Friday and Saturday (rock). German and Belgian beers on offer. Blv. +355 68 609 16 68. regencycasino.al.bar@gmail. +355 4 237 99 99/+355 68 212 79 61. Sun 17:00 . tel. Snacks are served. How loud can a student bar get? Raum does its best to put this to the test. EB Tirana Rock I-4. Although the focus is on wine and grappa. mellow music and a terrace with pond underneath the palm trees it’s crammed with the city’s beautiful at night.23:00. and playing the usual house hits to a happy crowd. Thursday (new bands). wild parties and loud live music played every Wednesday (unplugged).what could possibly be better? Sample a large variety of mainly Italian wines. $$ Wine Shop H-5. +355 4 227 88 16. +355 69 208 84 81/+355 69 208 65 95. 30 Over H-3. Sat 08:00 .inyourpocket. as are Cuban cigars that may be smoked here. PAE Bonaparte G/H-4. An achingly trendy club for Tirana’s coolest people.com. as they should be. Dëshmorët e Kombit. PB The parliament building by night Out now. ask to see if they’re available again. drink. near the ring road. well-stocked with Italian. +355 69 407 47 03. Sun 17:00 . In July and August the whole club moves to Durrës. tel. sleep and experience could be metres away. the admission fee charged on these nights includes a drink. though lacking pub grub. while house and R&B DJs take over on Friday and Saturday. Rr. PB Alcora G/H-4. Abdyl Frashëri 5. cheap cocktails. Elbasanit 1 1 8/1 . The most upmarket wine bar in town comes highly recommended by online Tirana In Your Pocket readers. tel. Q PBW Lollipop H . The owners are proud that only ‘selected’ reggae. Wines from around Europe and open cask examples from Albania and Macedonia are offers at good prices. Chilean and other wines at around 300 lek a glass. PB Zanzibar H-5. tel.QOpen Fri. Rr. PEB Mumja F-5. There’s Italian food on offer and on Friday and Saturday evenings there’s live tinkling on the piano. tel. myspace. Surf’s up at the tropicalstyle Tiki Bar. A café and bar behind Enver Hoxha’s old villa that really comes alive during the Friday and Saturday night karaoke sessions – warble along to your favourite Albanian or foreign song together with the Magic 4 group. Heavy and earnest wooden furniture sends echoes around this wonderfully chilled alternative to the younger-focus of Tirana nightlife.02:00. Now with added GPS. Fri. P Casinos Regency Casino G-4. At 22:30 on Friday and Saturday nights. With a large outdoor space for cooling down on warm nights. Murat Toptani. but is at its best when live rock music is played on Fridays and Saturdays. www. There are TV screens showing sports. padded walls and Ionian pillars). The best thing about the bar is the buzzing atmosphere and the pleasant outside seating area. QOpen 08:00 . NIGHTLIFE Vogue Lounge H-4. One of six bars in a row in a crazy building. Come jiggle with the glittering girls. www.com. P Folie F-5. designer lamps. first a politburo residence and then a UN office.4. Pjetër Bogdani. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Despite the name there is nothing very African about this place apart from the mural of the Sahel plain that runs the length of one wall and a few random elephant carvings. tel. The karaoke starts at 22:30.com. Murat Toptani. and there’s a good variety of beer. sofas in vivid red and blinding white and polka dots on the wall. there are some anti-pasta dishes available so you can keep going all night. QOpen 07:00 .24:00. +355 69 260 06 57/+355 67 208 05 71.cocktails and dozens of whiskeys available. tel. Vaso Pasha. info@venuedanceclub. A popular and stylishly upmarket wine bar on the fourth floor of the Twin Towers complex.QOpen 09:00 . +355 4 225 17 75. +355 67 206 75 00.23:00.02:00. +355 68 206 10 88. Blv.QOpen 18:00 . Folie is one of Tirana’s best clubs. The casino inside the Taiwan complex has 20 gaming tables and 250 slot machines. Rr. Enoteca Joan H-4. QOpen 08:00 .03:00. Rinia Park. visitors can get sozzled on a dizzying array of quality French wines. Rr. A purple and lime green lego brick moti f. Q Open Wed-Sat 19:30-03:00. Their classic Tirana Rock Café T-shirts sold out in no time. with black and white photos of him and other famous musicians lining the walls. cognac and over 30 types of whiskey. +355 69 207 35 90. Don’t miss the annual Bob Marley birthday party (around Feb 6). Rr.23:00. a far cry from the slick lounges just down the street. tel. The walls are lined with wine bottles. Playing ‘selected music for good people’ in an extravagant three-storey space with plenty of glass balconies for making yourself seen.com/foliebar.01:00. tel. Irish Bar H. electro and underground music is played.03:00. One of Tirana’s best bars. +355 4 224 90 26. Sat 22:30 . Q Open Fri. foliebar@gmail.01:00. Rr. Rr. sweaty moves on the dance floor and ruptured eardrums.02:00. A great bar dedicated to recorded and live jazz music on the ground floor of the Vesa Center building. From mid-Oct to mid-May there’s live music on weekend nights. Nikolla Tupe.com. Andon Zako Çajupi. QOpen 08:00 . PE Venue Dance Club Rr. tel. bring ID and be older than 21 to get in. Abdyl Frashëri. Fri.QOpen 17:00 . tirana. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Wednesdays sees bands play live here. Clubs Calvin Rr.QOpen 08:00 .QOpen 07:30 . At the rear of the hotel. +355 4 227 47 39.com/lollipoptirana. +355 68 407 43 16. this is a decent place as any to enjoy a glass of wine (some 15 types are available from across the world) with some snacks. Rr. with a dark wood interior with old carpets and a grand piano. Twin Towers. where sur fboards stand in the sand. +355 69 309 68 10. www.24:00. though beer costs more when bands play. Sat 23:00-04:00.inyourpocket. with several Irish. Sat 22:00-03:00.500 lek. +355 69 337 02 01. and the crowd dancing away the night in this first-floor bar must be deaf for days after the party. Fri.net. Dress up. and the selection of Italian.venuedanceclub. There’s a very nice terrace with views of the treetops. tel. Pity about the smoke. tel.23:00. PEB Raum H . At the weekend the DJs come out and do their thing competing against the live bands at Charl’s Bistro across the street. QOpen 07:00 . the Rock has a lot of wood.05:00. Rr. Beer 400 lek.myspace.com Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.QOpen 07:00 . QOpen 08:00 .com Spring/Summer 2011 . tel. as well as some great Italian and French dishes. Fri. Sun 18:30 . Sadik Petrela 20. Mustafa Matohiti. Sharm is a disco club done up in outrageous colours and materials (think glass floors. Only drinks are served. Rr.05:00.03:00. French and other foreign wines is complemented by a selection of Albanian reds. koncept4@hotmail. A rock bar with a homage to the late great John Lennon.24:00.03:00. One 33 The best places to eat. When you’ve had enough of Tirana’s relentless youthfulness. The locals come here for the see-and-be-seen factor and nip coffee and wine or taste the antipasta dishes.24:00. E xpect friendly students. Vesa Center. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Set beside the Millennium cinema. Rr. $$ PEBSW Rei Jazz Club I-4. Closed Sun. wine. with lots of brushed steel. friendly place. Ismail Qemali. Closing times are very flexible. comfy chairs. Pjetër Bogdani 8/1. Taiwan. Rr. in this small venue that’s set back from the road.

which include waistcoats. with Tirana In Your Pocket guides. +355 4 223 50 95/2234117. Sheshi Nënë Tereza. Admission 200 lek. National History Museum (Muzeu Historik Kombëtar) E-4. donations welcome. Nov-Mar 09:00-17:00. it housed King Zog‘s puppet parliament. Martyrs’ Cemetery (Varrezat e Dëshmorëve) Rr. Small fruit and vegetable stalls can be found across the city. Although they do not have a permanent exhibition space yet. Kavajës 151. The 12m-high dynamic white statue of Mother Albania. In front of the building. fax +355 4 223 21 09. Their top pieces.34 WHAT TO SEE Essential Tirana Tirana’s sights are quite low-key. The Puppet Theater has a surprising past: before World War II. and a plate from the sunken Italian warship ‘Po’. the pompous Palace of Culture was built with Soviet assistance. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit.tirana. Closed Sat. tel. gov. Luris speaks English and French. so you’re told to pay 1000 lek rather than 100. Closed Mon. A short drive on the bus to Sauk. and even if you do put down ten times the amount necessary. Drop by to get information about Tirana and copies of Tirana In Your Pocket. Sun. Sun Business Centre. with two chapels repainted in 1999.17:00. tel. Tirana’s first private museum consists of 800-object Mezuraj family collection of which a changing selection is on display. The top floor is devoted to contemporary modern art by artists who are at last free to give the stroke of a brush their own expression. QOpen 08:00 . but it has a quite nice interior with impressive concrete architecture.tirana-airport. Chinese experts had to be called in to finish the job. providing answers to questions about Tirana and Albania. Repeated looting in the 1990s has robbed the museum of many artefacts. wines and raki throughout small squares and snaking alleyways. One hall focuses on the years around the Second World War and the resistance movements.it represents the development of Albania’s history with everyone from Illirians to partisans represented. Enver Hoxha used to be buried at her feet until he fell from grace in 1991. Take a taxi or bus up Rr. The gallery is surrounded by a lovely park. muzeutr@yahoo. Designed by Hoxha’s daughter Pranvera.gov. people. Museums & Galleries Archaeological Museum (Muzeu Arkeologjik) I-5.QOpen 09:00 . opened in 1988 as a museum dedicated to the Albanian dictator-cum-pharaoh Enver Hoxha. Closed Mon. inaugurated in 1972. Admission 300 lek. Tirana and Mt. Albania’s industrial might and factory workers. The modern-style building with lots of concrete and a space-age bell tower should be finished in 2011. Sun 09:00 .17:00. Other sights here include the imposing red-brick National Bank.12:00. +355 4 223 46 55. and delicate tablecloths. Linda and her son Luris are perhaps Tirana’s most fervent collectors and restorers of traditional Albanian costumes. tel. as it’s popularly known. Kavajës. Tirana’s Catholic cathedral looks somewhat bland on the outside save for the statue of St Paul perched on the roof. info@ mezuraj. produced from 1944 to 1990 during Hoxha’s dictatorship when even the size of canvas and subject matter were dictated. they sold the family house and moved into a rented apartment to be able to purchase more items. Tourist Information Office (Zyra e Informacionit Turistik) E-4. and when they finally finish (nobody dares to estimate when). Tirana’s oldest surviving Catholic church is the Romance-style Jesuit church. Even though all the signs and price tags in shops are new lek. watches over the graves in a windswept gown.al. the massive new Orthodox cathedral currently looks like a nuclear power plant. but the Communists made it absolutely massive (and in the process. Apart from fruit.al. This cemetery holds the remains of 900 partisans who fought for Tirana in WWII. Looted in 1997. though there’s a healthy heated debate about the destruction of the past and preservation of the park going on.14:30. tel. follow our short city walk (see page 36). surrounded by 80m-high buildings to accentuate the core of the city. Closed Sun. There are some English texts but it’s best to bring an Albanian for a better understanding. Zhan D’Ark. www. beautiful bronze-age jewellery.mezuraj. old Albanian habits in particular. the city’s art museum has seen a comeback and now hosts a varied collection. visiting the Et’hem Bey Mosque and the National History Museum before getting a coffee in the bllok area. and therefore the must-sees can nearly be counted on one finger.com tirana. tel. silvia spoke to Arben. but it remains the best place in Albania to tank up on history and to view beautiful finds from the many archeological sites across the country. the chief Soviet engineer on the project gathered up all the blueprints and left the country. +355 68 304 26 64/+355 68 212 10 08. there’s a permanent exhibition of works by Albania’s earliest painters starting in the 1800s. tel. the Et‘hem Bey Mosque and Skanderbeg’s statue. Orthodox Church (Kisha Orthodokse) F-2.museum. But when Albanian-Soviet relations deteriorated. WHAT TO SEE Skanderbeg Square (Sheshi Skënderbej) E-4. Admission free. maps. is that vast expanse of asphalt where you‘ve got to dodge both Mercedes and plastic kiddie cars.museum. This is not to rip you off – it’s just an old habit that’s just as comfy as those awful slippers you wear at home. it is to be green and pedestrianised. The museum shop is an excellent place to shop for books and traditional crafts. But still. Dëshmorët e Kombit. of course). 14:0019:00. the building was reportedly the most expensive ever erected in Albania. Tirana’s main square. Sun 10:00 14:00. Animal rights activists won’t like the sight of bunches of live chickens slung over bicycle handlebars.17:00. Mosaic fragment at the Shëngjin Church ruin Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. The Orthodox Church of the Holy Annunciation was built in 1964. spearheads. Q Open by appointment. After the regime collapsed. Pyramid (Piramida) G-5. heavy woollen embroidered xhubleta skirts. Rr. Today this building contains the Opera and the National Library. The mosaic on the facade of the National History Museum represents the flow of Albanian history. +355 4 238 49 80. Points of interest Central Market (Pazari i ri) E-5. a zero was cut from the currency and new banknotes and coins introduced to make the numbers easier to handle.18:00. the government wants to demolish it to make place for new parliament buildings. you’ll get the right change. +355 4 224 07 11. Churches Cathedral of St. In 1967. Inside. In 1964 and 1991. 17:00-19:00.com. Mezuraj Museum (Mezuraj Muze) E-3. when all religious activity in Albania was banned. Heart of Christ Church (Kisha Zemra e Krishtit) F-3. QOpen 10:30 . the place became a conference center and location of a club (called The Mummy. while the museum ends with a harrowing exhibition about Albania’s gruesome labour camp system and the thousands of men and women who were swallowed by it. including Greek amphorae. Take the currency. Started in 1958. infotourism@tirana. Sheshi Skënderbej. Linda Spahiu Costume Collection tel. vegetables. but closed in 1967 and was then used to house the Tirana Sports Club. www. winter afternoons: 16:00-19:00. enter on the right side of the building. cleared away an old bazaar). Ded Gjo Luli. fresh produce and trash.QOpen Apr-Oct 09:00-19:00. the Peace Bell installation was made in 1999 as a memorial to peace by the children of Shkodra. Sun 09:00-16:00. Blv. cheeses. they are happy to show their collection and sell some items to interested visitors.com. +355 4 224 86 91.org. From the heights of the cemetery. Kavajës. not all Albanian minds have made the transition. +355 4 226 71 96. www. As part of a complete makeover of Tirana’s city centre. It reopened as a church in 1991. Find the museum above the Raiffeisen bank on the first floor of the tall business centre 500m from Sheshi Skanderbeg. Admission 200 lek. and as a special bonus at the rear of the building you’ll find some still-defiant Communist-era partizan statues clenching their fists at the sky. most of it thoroughly plagiarized since the 1990s by hundreds of living painters. . tel. You can’t miss the gargantuan mosaic on the facade .orthodoxalbania. Elbasanit to the first roundabout after the Martyr’s Cemetery and you’ll be met there. Early morning is the best time of day to witness Balkan-style trading and haggling. Visitors are welcome in the morning and afternoon hours. December 15 10. The Orthodox Church of Albania first became autocephalous in 1937 and again in 1992. with a striking Socialist Realist depiction of happy young people on a harvest campaign. the stalls display a dozen varieties of olives. National Art Gallery (Galeria Kombëtare e Arteve) F-4/5. as well as huge statues of Lenin and Stalin.new leks Old habits die hard. The floors above contain realist socialist works depicting heroic partisans. it was stripped of its frescoes and turned into a cinema. but the daily pazari i ri (‘new market’) truly captures the spirit of the country in a messy explosion of colour. QOpen 10:00 .gka. the square is currently under construction. A handy tourist information kiosk in the airport arrivals hall.com Spring/Summer 2011 .com. The square was large even before World War II. the lek. Blv. from pottery and animal statuettes to arrowheads and jewellery. The new Orthodox Cathedral clock tower Orthodox Cathedral (Katedralja e re Ortodokse) F-4. Services resumed in 1990. Note Mother Teresa and Pope John Paul II featured in the stained glass windows. 4th century weights. fired off during the lawless 1990s. There are also various archaeological artefacts on display. Archeology buffs who aren’t satisfied by the finds on display at the National History Museum will find even more fragments of various finds here. fish and meat. Sat. QOpen 06:00 . The pyramid. Dajti are spread out panoramically before you. www. Now semi-derelict.al. The bell’s metal comes from thousands of bullet cartridges. each hall covers one of the stages in the development of the Albanian nation. Sheshi Skënderbej. Elbasanit. +355 4 223 39 75. atelielinda@hotmail. Sat. +355 4 222 33 13. QOpen 10:00 . built by Giovanni Santi (from Udine in Italy) in 1939. The city’s friendly tourist information centre is right behind the National Museum.19:00. Sun 09:0016:00.inyourpocket. +355 4 222 34 46. but at least these chicks didn’t grow up in Guantanamo poultry farms. Besides the changing shows. QOpen 10:00 . Sheshi Avni Rustemi. Open 08:30-12:30. tel. tel. If time allows you to take in some culture. you’ll get sometimes get quoted amounts in old leks in shops. Tourist information TIA Tourist Information Point TIA. Rr.14:00. www. Under construction. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Research complete.inyourpocket. 35 Old habits . Blv. Paul (Katedralja e Shen Palit) G-5. Rr. Rr. Rr. Two rooms are dedicated to Albanian paintings and sculptures. Admission free.

making it hard to miss. These were built in the 1930s. Rr. A little obscure but well worth a look if you’re in this part of town: look for the Hallall pizzeria on the northern end of the street. During the communist era. Closed Sun. Fortress of Justinian (Kalaja) F-5.17:00. an event long used to demark the closing time of the formerly adjacent market place. Party leaders stood on the balcony here and waved to the masses below. Q Open for tourists 08:00-11:00. At the southern end of the boulevard stands the Polytechnic University. QOpen 08:00 . Closed Sun. Admission 100 lek. Watch out . Behind the Ministry of the Interior on Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit stood the headquarters of the Sigurimi (state security police). tel.000 courageous people dared to attend and remarkably the police did not interfere.slippery when wet. This türbe. The shadow of the tower strikes the mosque at sunset. Sheshi Skenderbej. 17:00-20:30. and a little further the modernist Palace of Congresses. nursing people through a cholera epidemic.’ for the monthly bonus they supposedly got for snitching on their countrymen). and formed the heart of Tirana. Bulevardi Bajram Curri) and perhaps without noticing you’ve crossed the Lana River. Originally built for Party congresses. Rr. who ruled Tirana in the early 19th century. and walk 100 metres west. Left derelict. Closed Sat. which was once the Communist Party headquarters. An excavated Byzantine-era church ruin that was only discovered in 1972 boasts Tirana’s oldest artworks: mosaics with geometric patterns and depictions of poultry and fish. WHAT TO SEE Et’hem Bey Mosque (Xhamia e Et’hem Beut) F-4. The feared organisation ran labour camps for political prisoners and maintained a network of informers (known as ‘80 lek men.36 WHAT TO SEE City walk Tirana’s most significant buildings are concentrated along one thoroughfare: Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit. Teqeja Dervish Hatixhe C-4. festivals and fairs. artgallery@yahoo. Dedicated to the female Bektashi Islamic saint Dervish Hatixhe who was the Tirana Nightingale. Its imposing stone façade certainly seems better fitted for reviewing goose-stepping soldiers from than for studying in. Unfortunately there’s little in the way of explanations. Zhan D`Ark. Murat Toptani. Rr. without permission from the authorities. in front of the Art Gallery. on the right. There’s a few workers and soldiers there. +355 4 226 66 80/+355 68 213 01 80. ending Hoxha’s longstanding cult of personality. Tirana’s main boulevard Starting underneath the mosaic of the National Museum on Skanderbeg Square. Ismail Qemali was dictator Enver Hoxha’s villa. +355 4 222 37 01. intersection with Blv. The Arts Gallery has some Socialist Realist statues and paintings that are worth a look. tel. housing ministries and the town hall. Galeria Shijaku (Sali Shijaku House) B-5. it now hosts concerts. After the regime collapsed. QOpen 09:00 . Hoxha was dug up in 1992 and unceremoniously filed away in Kombinati Cemetery in west Tirana. It was dramatically toppled by demonstrators in 1991. her statue can be found up the steps. is the President’s Palace. The event was a milestone in the rebirth of religious freedom in Albania. Q Open 09:30-14:00. Q Open Mon 09:00-13:00. Bush. A statue of Lenin once stood on Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit. the Enver Hoxha Memorial (the pyramid) was built in his honour. and with popular support bulldozed the buildings in order to restore the park. hidden behind pine trees. the Art Academy. absolutely dazzled the average Albanian once this area was opened to the public. Abdyl Frashëri. Zeta Gallery I-4. we saw a looped video of a guy shooting at something in the Grand Park. A windowless room on the second floor of a new building has changing art exhibitions by young local and international artists. but walk around the back to find some of Tirana’s last Commie statues huddled behind the building. Tanners’ Bridge (Ura e tabakëve) F-6. It honours Kaplan Pasha. while the high main room has been converted into an art gallery. This elegant Ottoman stone footbridge was once the main connection between Tirana and the highlands to the east. Nicely exhibited in a little park and protected by a makeshift roof. The walk described below. most of the ‘attractions’ have disappeared.motifs rarely seen in Islamic art. old-fashioned collection in a ramshackle building includes lots of stuffed animals (of the taxidermic. and the views of the city centre from the top are worth the climb. In fact. It consists of eight classical columns linked by arches. The disproportionately large.com. Find the house in a small courtyard 100m beyond the French cultural institute. V. On your right. 16:00-18:00. birds and various strange sea creatures. empty square at the end of the boulevard is Sheshi Nënë Tereza (Mother Teresa Square). fenced off and concealed behind trees. Dervish Hatixhe. This building served as the Soviet embassy until 1961.probably the last place in Europe besides Georgia where he was thus honoured. Tirana’s landmark central sight is the clock tower from 1822. Naim Frashëri. including the biggest sea turtle ever found in Albania. covered in vines. not cuddly. eventually becoming a rubbish tip. Originally buried with honours in the Martyrs’ Cemetery. waterfalls and bridges . Ottoman Tirana Clock Tower (Kulla e sahatit) F-4/5. Admission free. or tomb. The collection of villas here. National Art Gallery Natural Science Museum (Museu i Shkencave Të Natyrës) F-2. Beyond Rruga Ismail Qemali you’ll pass the Rogner Europapark Hotel. Construction of the ‘Xhamia e Haxhi Ethem Beut’ mosque started in 1794 and was finished in 1821 by Et’hem Bey (who evidently got all the credit). Shëngjin Church Mosaic (Mozaiku i Tiranës) E-2.you can still see the raised pedestal. Albania was but an outpost on the western fringe of the Byzantine Empire. In late 2008. the bllok (block) area was completely cordoned off by armed guards. completed by the locals and extended to 35m in 1928. Rr. Across the street stood a bust of Joseph Stalin . The three-storey modular home on the corner of Rr. Closed under communist rule. 10. will take you past Tirana’s highlights in a flash. To the left is the Archaeological Museum. During official demonstrations and parades. On her death in 1798 a tekke was founded near her turbe (grave). Started off by Et`hem Bey. On your right is Rinia Park. In January 2011. Tomb of Kaplan Pasha (Tyrbe e Kapllan Pasha) F-5. archaeologists uncovered the extensive fortress foundations that will soon be incorporated into the pedestrianised street. who held parades here during World War II. Since then. It later became the venue for the locals’ xhiro (evening stroll). 37 Communist sights Just over 15 years ago. A massive gilded statue of Hoxha was erected on Skanderbeg Square . Walk across the next wide streets (Bulevardi Zhan D’Ark.what bliss that would be now. Take your shoes off before entering the inner room. It miraculously survived the communist era and is still visited by people of varying religions. trash-strewn and half-sunk into the pavement and lit only by a blue neon lamp for many years. When we visited. when all diplomatic relations were broken off. Rr. which was concealed beneath illegally built bars and pizzerias in the 1990s. Rr. which is now a government residence. the former Hotel Dajti. originally erected by the Italian Fascists. About all that’s left of the fortress above ground is a 6m-high Ottoman-era wall. it can be seen from the far end of Rr. not even Hoxha’s remains could evade the judgement of history. Uncle Joe’s head was carted away before the fall of the regime at the end of 1990. It was used to get agricultural produce and livestock across the Lana River to the markets. A corridor leads past a sootblackened candle room to where the graves of Hatixhe and her family members can be seen. House of the Dervish Khorosani D-4. but this symbolical de-Stalinisation came too late to save the leaders. It’s now restored to its former glory and is used by pedestrians again. tel. Going further down the paths on either side of the university whisks you out of urban Tirana and into the Grand Park.inyourpocket. Presidenti George W. Rr. Rr. QOpen 08:00 . this was the scene of rioting and three deaths when nervous guards opened fire on demonstrators.com Spring/Summer 2011 . On the right is the former Party Committee building. Just past the next crossing on your left is the Prime Minister’s Residence. dates from 1817. all Albania was a living Stalinist theme park. it is now to be renovated and graciously shielded by the concave wall of the high-rise building currently under construction next to it.14:00. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit and Rr. Hekla Center. +355 4 222 90 28. next to the Twin Tower business centre is a small park with the busts of the three Frashëri brothers. the mosque reopened as a house of worship in 1991. The grand boulevard leading south from here was the brainchild of the Italian Fascists. The Lana was rerouted in the 1930s and the bridge was neglected. and sits in the area of skinners and leather workers. this pretty mosque is right on the city’s main square. Sun. Take a look at the frescoes outside and in the portico which depict trees. but a few relics are still left over. especially women.inyourpocket. pass Et’hem Bey Mosque towards the elegant government buildings at the end of the square. when a German-made clock was also installed. +355 4 224 32 92. Next to the gate is an octagonal türbe holding the graves of three babas. 28 Nëntori. tirana. After Hoxha’s death. and for a while thereafter it housed parliament. There’s a shady café terrace in the garden. some from the church iconostasis. but most impressive are the huge statues of Lenin and a very rare one of Stalin. tel. Sheshi Skenderbej. A pretty 19th century wooden building set in a small courtyard. during the rule of King Zog. Luarasi. then. Cross the next street (Rruga Myslym Shyri) and on your left is the Art Gallery. the “Boulevard of the Martyrs”. Durrësit when entering the city. zeta. whose green banks were also crammed with illegal buildings until order was restored. Thu 09:00-13:00. kind). Brightly lit at night. named for the nun who was arguably the most famous Albanian of the 20th century. Barrikadave. behind the National Art Gallery Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. it used to be closed off to traffic in evenings . tel. scattered around the site. +355 4 226 14 58. Here you arrive at the ‘pyramid’. When this fortress was built in the 6th century. The municipality reclaimed the area. The best place to get more information about Albania’s totalitarian years is the National History Museum which has a large hall dedicated to the period. This small. Kavajës. A large Ottoman-era konak house surrounded by a lovely garden and a high wall.17:00. On your right.com Vladimir and Joseph. The fortress the place where the main east-west and north-south roads crossed. Rr. impressive enough by Western standards. This was the residential area of Party leaders. Perhaps the only real sight in Tirana. it was for long the highest building in town. there are also various stones. and photos comparing 1980s Tirana to the current situation. from Skanderbeg Square to the Polytechnic University.

Rinia Park G-4. At one time. A free shuttle bus service is available from the terminus of the Porcelan bus line. In his spare time he translated Shakespeare and Cervantes into Albanian. From Pëllumbas village it’s a two-kilometre guided walk along a well-prepared path along the Erzen river canyon to the cave tirana. or take one of the shuttle vans to the other hillside restaurants.18:00. A short stroll south of central Tirana. Closed Mon. laid out in a triangle.com. Blv. the Grand Park is a haven from all the traffic and dust.+355 5 11 22 25. fighting mad. When you’ve had enough of dust. guiding and a traditional meal (their association was instrumental in opening up this cave for visitors). with their powerdrills and tools on display. Just outside the citadel is the old bazaar. a swish terrace café. The castle was used during Skanderbeg’s war against the Turks. a Bektashi temple building with impressive decorations. After his death.yes.14:00. woven rugs and traditional felt hats. garbage and shady dealings. Ask around for local guide Behar Duqi (or call the number above in advance). If you’re driving. +355 4 222 52 87. turn right into Fushe Kruje (famous for the George Bush disappearing watch act). and together with Bulgaria. turn left at the ‘Ujvara Resort’ sign and drive up into the village. admission 200 lek). Sheshi Skenderbeg. which was an observation and signalling post. No trip to Tirana is complete without a trip out of Tirana. one street of quaint shops with windows full of antiques. Bush. Dajti Ekspres Cable Car (Teleferik) Linza. Near to the zoo. returning at 18:00. Emperor Justinian fortified this place to defend the settlement of Dyrrachium (now Durrës). Noli was a writer and Orthodox bishop. folk costumes. Reach the park by walking up the path to the west of the university building. his sister Mamica lived here and defended the castle. Oct-Apr 09:00-13:00. Statues & Monuments Fan Noli Statue E-5. featureless and clad with hospital tiles.000 lek (negotiate this beforehand). The museum was built with a fake medieval façade in 1982 and houses copies of Skanderbeg’s sword and spiky helmet (the originals are in Vienna).21:00. it can easily be visited in the morning for some last minute shopping before you catch your flight. Walk west and you’ll soon reach the dam. Walking in the park Unknown Partisan Statue F-5. Across the field to the right is an anti-fascist monument. Abdyl was leader of the Prizren League. A modest statue of Skopje-born but ethnic Albanian Nënë Tereza or Mother Teresa stands in the southeast corner of the square named after her. This statue was erected to honor the many Albanian partisans who gave their lives fighting the fascists. stay on the main road. Kruja thus became a symbol of national resistance . Visiting Tirana’s zoo is a fairly depressing experience. along the road to Elbasan. One of the few original structures remaining is the clock tower. He managed to create an independent Albanian princedom and keep it free for 25 long years.38 WHAT TO SEE Tirana parks Grand Park (Parku i Madh) K-5. During the city’s clean-up. it is off limits to the public. it’s 360 metres deep. follow Rruga Hoxha Taksim east and follow the signs. Outdoor Albania (see Travel agents) does regular daytrips (€30/25) to the area which include transport. Albanians consider him not only the father of their nation. it’s surprising how little concession the sculptor made to official socialist-realist style. However. Known as the Shpella e Zeze (Black Cave). Pëllumbas village is 27km east of Tirana along the road to Elbasan.com. A decade ago. Rinia Park was a disgraceful mess of illegal constructions. built to honour the man otherwise known as Skanderbeg. they’re used to quoting high prices. +355 4 237 91 11. the buildings were bulldozed and the result is this pleasant spot of green. Exhibits include 19th-century folk dress. 15km southeast of Tirana. exactly 500 years after Skanderbeg’s death.com. but it’s a stepladder. turning left at the ‘Pëllumbas’ sign. Whisking you up to 1230m above sea level in under 15 minutes. The statue was unveiled in 1968. closed Mon. or to swim. and there’s empty space for adding the many names that are yet unknown. Sami was a radical agitator for an independent Albanian republic. Sheshi Nënë Tereza. which once served as the residence of King Zog. beautiful rural landscapes. the lamas don’t know how good they have it in their chalet housing. www. visit the cave in Pëllumbas for some fresh air. Considering the era in which it was made. The most important sight in Kruja is the semi-ruined citadel area. +355 5 211 22 25. the small streets immediately below the Ethnographic Museum are Kruja’s best. is the only historical figure whom all Albanians agree was a national hero. Albania was occupied by the Ottomans. www. entrance.000-3. As Kruja is just 30 minutes from the airport. since Britain was considered an imperialist enemy. The spidery white building that looks like it could be the lair of a James Bond villain is an entertainment complex called Taiwan. QOpen 08:00 . head for the restaurants at the top end of the citadel. visit the Ballkoni Dajtit restaurant. A taxi from the city centre to the lower station should costs 600 lek. Tiranë. Q Admission 100 lek. He served as prime minister in 1924. who helped catalyse the Albanian national awakening in the late 19th century. now it’s a place for people to snooze after lunchtime. you may be disappointed with the humble nature of this town. it houses about 1400 species of plants. is touted as a good daytrip from the capital. www. and Naim was the first major Albanian-language poet. a fortress dating back to the fifth or sixth century and perched dramatically on a rocky outcrop. AROUND TOWN Parks & Gardens Botanical gardens (Kopshti Botanik) tel. housing restaurants. also known as Skanderbeg in English and Skenderbej in Albanian. Admission free. one of Albania’s most revered historical figures. as well as traditional copper goods and clay utensils. dajtiekspres. There you can hike in the lush forests. Those guys hanging out around the monument in the morning are not WWII buffs but day labourers waiting for work. open May-Sept 08:00-13:00.com.23:00. tel.inyourpocket. Just up the hill are the tombs of the Frashëri brothers. Zoo (Kopshti Zoologjik Tiranë) Grand Park. but Skanderbeg’s legacy preserved the Albanian national identity throughout 500 years of Ottoman rule. charging forward with a rifle in his hand .muzeukombetarskenderbeukruje. A bilingual plaque on the corner of the National Museum lists the names of 33 Albanians who helped shelter Jews. A little further into the park along the pond. who takes visitors to and into the cave. stands at the far edge of the park along Rr. a monkey gazes at the ceiling. Monument for the Righteous Gentiles of Albania E-4.supposedly the proud symbol of Albania . closed Mon. Turkish coffee comes in a traditional copper pot and is best enjoyed curled up on the rows of pillows that surround the Turkish tables of some restaurants. Spring/Summer 2011 Tirana In Your Pocket . Educated at Harvard. Walk east uphill to find several intriguing memorials. but also the man who saved all Europe from the Ottoman Empire. Mother Teresa Statue I-5. representing about a third of the Albanian flora. until you see signs marked Kalaje (fortress). Founded in 1971. tel. Tirana’s botanical garden is a pleasant 15-hectare area on the slopes to the southwest of the centre. Rr. The wolf scatters at any approach to the bars. to fish. Elbasanit and was named for the partisans who captured it in WWII. For a delightful trip away from the city.com Petrela Castle (Kalaja e Petrelës) Petrelë. thousands of Jews from across Europe fled to Albania to avoid Nazi persecution. Bargain hard. and later by humans who dropped all manner of tools in the neolithic. QOpen 09:00 . up to 45 metres high and features some great stalactites. with round towers at the corners.not until 1478 (after Skanderbeg’s death) did the Ottomans succeed in capturing the citadel. narrow and winding past high courtyard walls like they did 500 years ago. not only for sightseeing but also for souvenir-hunting. Getting to Kruja: A taxi will cost 2. which offer great views of the surroundings and serve Albanian food. Kruja. but the financial challenges of the institution are evident. ending at the edge of Dajti picnic field near the top of the mountain.shpellaepellumbasit. 16:00-19:00. and a shrine for Albanians though less interesting for foreigners. tel. It was inhabited in prehistoric times. Swooping over pastures. which is surrounded by pleasant parkland and a few restaurants. QOpen 11:00 . Only by the end of the 12th century was the citadel completed. +355 69 208 8138. the most famous being the Ottoman campaigns repulsed by the Albanian warrior Skanderbeg and his men. the Belvedere Hotel viewing platform. paintings and exhibits (mostly replicas) presenting Skanderbeg’s struggle against the Ottomans. Gjergj Kastrioti (1405-68). This 3-metre-tall. Skanderbeg Statue E/F-4. bronze and iron ages. surrounding it are walls from the Byzantine period. Buses to Pëllumbas depart from Rruga Elbasan at 05:15 and 07:15. +355 68 360 78 43. The main attraction however is the fountain in front of Taiwan which in the evening fascinates hundreds of young and old onlookers with its light show. dajtiekspres@yahoo. Nearby is the excellent small Ethnographic Museum (same times and contact details. an invigorating walk. mud and traffic. twisting up through the forest and Kruja town. but there’s been little action till now. the Austrian-built Dajti Express cable car on the outskirts of Tirana is a fun ride. a lake and steep rocks. The bedraggled golden eagles . The pens are small. silver filigree jewellery. QOpen 08:00 . or take the Linza bus to its terminus and walk uphill another 5 minutes. first by bears who left a scattering of bones. Return tickets 700 lekë. get out and see some of the impressive landscapes in the surrounding area. children under 6 free. follow the Shkodra road from Tirana. admission 200 lek) which displays the beautiful interior of a traditional Albanian house around 1800. but it was eventually captured and used by Turkish soldiers. Part of Tirana University’s Faculty of Natural Sciences. where hardhats are provided . now converted to a church) and the lovely Dollma teqe. We’ve heard of plans to overhaul the zoo. Sheshi Skenderbej. bowling alleys and a casino. The friendly caretaker will take you on a whirlwind English-language tour of the rooms. The Palace of the Brigades. The park is now the proud focus of the evening xhiro. roughly hewn statue commemorates Fan Noli (1882-1965). Nearby stand several grey stones listing the names of all German soldiers who died in Albania during WWII.com Pëllumbas Cave (Shpella e Pëllumbasit) tel. Dëshmorët e Kombit. Fist upraised. apparently for being a sort of island in the park. 16:00-18:00. During World War Two. Find the zoo’s unmarked entrance gate on the square at the end of the Grand Park dam. Krujë. Wander around and you’ll come across the old citadel hamam (bathhouse. One is the well-tended cemetery for the British troops who died fighting the Germans in WWII. this was the only European country where all of them survived thanks to the local citizens. Admission 50 lek. a swim in the river and some ancient history. Now used for official receptions (and with a military headquarters nearby). thousands of the city’s inhabitants came here on holidays to play and picnic. One of Albania’s best-preserved castles. Petrela sits picturesquely on a steep slope overlooking a river. you’ll end up near Tirana Lake (romantically known as ‘the artificial lake’). when thousands of people dress up and stroll around to meet up and chat with friends. The animals appear to be reasonably well fed and physically cared for. some of them buried at this site. The tower in the centre dates back to 500 AD. When you’re done shopping and sightseeing. 39 Dajti Ekspres cable car Kruja Kalaja e Krujës. tirana. the 4km route offers great views of the mountain and the city. Presidenti George W.inyourpocket. it`s none other than the Unknown Partisan. It weathered many sieges.do have a perch. 47 km north of Tirana. if you’ve already been to Berat and Gjirokaster. his chin resting against the wall. Their sacrifice was long suppressed from the historical record. Though usually skipped by most visitors. On a clear day you can see all the way to Kruja.bring a torch. Sheshi Fan Noli. If you’re driving. To the left of the citadel‘s main entrance is the Gjergj Kastriot Skënderbeu Museum (tel. The inmates are kept in a small block that is divided into ten cells. The bus costs 150 lek. at the other end of which you’ll find Tirana Zoo and a few enterprising car wash businesses using up all the lake water.

com. LV = Albanian Airlines. www. tel.tirana.ba. Nd. There’s a tourist information desk in the arrivals area only. 102. QOpen 09:00 . N°1 Qendra Tregtare Tirana. Sun 08:00 . Always check flight times before departure.inyourpocket. H. BA = British Airways.5. com. www. Belle Air (LZ) Bulevardi Zogu I. Passing through is a pleasant experience. QOpen 08:00 .com. Budget flights to Pristina in Kosovo. found tel. open 07:00-23:00).com Spring/Summer 2011 . 068 204 95 98. +355 4 38 18 00. fax +355 4 223 51 38. tel. +355 4 223 50 29/+355 4 223 50 28. Buses from the airport to the centre depart every hour between 08:00 and 19:00. Flights to Vienna. Flights to London Gatwick.18:00.adria. FB = Bulgarian Airlines. and the Albania Business Guide and Book of Lists investor handbooks.si. Rr. 150 lek for an hour. but is also known as Rinas. QOpen 08:30 . GETTING AROUND Flight schedule From Tirana To Tirana Days Dep. lost &amp. 069 209 89 08. keep in mind that as long as you are on the ground it’s going to be a bumpy ride. TK = Turkish Airlines.it. Dëshmorët e Kombit.19:00. Rogner Hotel Europapark.alitalia.com. +355 42 38 19 48. A trip to the airport usually takes 30 minutes. Parking at the airport is free for 15 minutes. Austrian Airlines (OS) H-5. Tirane.tiranaairport.inyourpocket. +44 871 702 99 74. Flights to Ljubljana. +355 69 407 66 14.13:00.com. 069 205 40 02) departs every hour between 07:00 and 19:00 from beside the National Museum on Skenderbeg Square. Dëshmorët e Kombit. see www. OS = Austrian Airlines. Vodafone and Eagle both have shops selling SIM and recharge cards. QOpen 08:00 . Airline codes: JP = Adria Airways.com.jetairfly. Jetairfly (TB) tel. duty-free shops (www. 068 207 03 11) and pay 2000 lek. Arr. LZ = Belle Air. reservation@flybelleair./fax +355 4 227 26 66. and a small Adrion press shop. tel. QOpen 09:00 . whether you take a taxi. various Italian cities and summer destinations in Turkey and Egypt. or 2500 lek at night. www. tirana. Smoking is banned in the terminal. Albania.19:30. +32 70 22 00 00. City Days Dep. MA = Malev .14:00. 223 34 19. Closed Sun. Sun.office@austrian. 10.18:00. +355 4 223 51 62. reservation@ all-fly-one. inyourpocket.com. jewellery and Adria Airways (JP) G-5. Germanwings (4U) tel. Budget flights to Brussels between June-Oct. Sat 09:00 . www. Rogner Europapark Hotel. The Rinas Express airport bus (tel. Elbasanit.com tirana. In Your Pocket city guides. LH = Lufthansa. call a yellow Airport Express Taxi (ATE. –2–4–67 16:20 17:30 ANCONA (LZ) –2–4–67 18:20 19:50 –––––6– 07:00 09:00 AMSTERDAM (LV) –––––6– 09:45 11:45 1234567 15:45 18:05 ATHENS (OP) 1234567 14:40 15:05 1––––6– 09:50 12:50 ATHENS (A3) 1––––6– 08:55 09:10 –2–45–7 16:55 19:10 ATHENS (A3) –2–45–7 14:00 16:15 ––3–5–7 16:00 18:20 ATHENS (LV) ––3–5–7 18:30 19:10 1––4–6– 05:10 06:30 BUDAPEST (MA) ––3–5–7 23:10 00:30 1234567 15:10 16:30 BUDAPEST (MA) 1234567 13:10 14:30 1–3–5–– 12:40 14:10 FLORENCE (LZ) 1–3–5–– 15:00 16:30 –––––6– 07:30 09:00 FLORENCE (LZ) –––––6– 09:50 11:20 –––––6– 08:10 10:40 FRANKFURT (LV) –––––6– 11:30 14:00 –2––––– 11:10 13:40 FRANKFURT (LV) –2––––– 14:40 17:10 –––4––– 12:00 14:30 FRANKFURT (LV) –––4––– 15:40 18:10 ––––––7 15:45 18:15 FRANKFURT (LV) ––––––7 19:25 21:45 1–3––6– 18:10 20:00 GENOVA (LZ) 1–3––6– 21:00 22:50 123–5–– 09:00 11:30 ISTANBUL (LV) 123–5–– 12:30 13:00 ––––––7 13:00 15:55 ISTANBUL (LV) ––––––7 16:55 17:25 1–34––– 10:50 13:25 ISTANBUL (TK) 1–34––– 09:05 09:50 –2––567 14:50 17:25 ISTANBUL (TK) –2––567 18:45 17:30 1234567 15:10 16:30 LJUBJANA (JP) 1234567 13:15 14:20 ––––––7 14:15 16:20 LONDON LGW (BA) ––––––7 09:30 13:30 12–4––– 15:05 17:10 LONDON LGW (BA) 12–4––– 10:20 14:20 –––––6– 19:35 21:40 LONDON LGW (BA) –––––6– 14:45 18:45 1–3–5–7 08:15 10:30 LONDON STN (LV) 1–3–5–7 11:15 15:30 –2–4––– 08:00 09:55 MILAN (LV) –2–4––– 10:45 12:45 ––––––7 18:00 19:55 MILAN (LV) ––––––7 20:45 22:45 1234–67 12:50 14:40 MILAN (LZ) 1234–67 15:30 17:20 ––––5–– 18:00 19:50 MILAN (LZ) ––––5–– 20:50 22:40 1–3–5–– 17:45 19:25 MILAN (AZ) 1–3–5–– 14:55 16:45 ––––––7 12:00 13:45 MILAN (AZ) ––––––7 09:15 11:05 1234567 12:45 14:35 MUNICH (LH) 1234567 10:25 12:10 –––4––7 11:20 12:50 NAPLES (LZ) –––4––7 13:40 15:10 ––3–5–7 15:00 17:45 PARIS (LV) ––3–5–7 18:30 21:15 –2–4––7 07:30 09:20 PISA (LZ) –2–4––7 10:20 12:00 –––4––7 07:50 08:40 PRISTINA (LZ) –––4––7 16:30 17:20 123–56– 13:30 14:20 PRISTINA (LZ) 123–56– 15:10 16:00 1234567 18:40 19:30 PRISTINA (LZ) 1234567 10:30 11:20 –2––––– 08:15 09:05 PRISTINA (LV) –2––––– 09:40 10:30 1–––––– 09:00 09:50 PRISTINA (LV) 1–––––– 10:05 11:15 –––4––– 13:45 14:35 PRISTINA (LV) –––4––– 15:10 16:00 –––––6– 19:30 20:20 PRISTINA (LV) ––––––7 06:55 07:45 1234567 09:00 09:30 PRISTINA (6Y) 1234567 15:10 15:40 1234567 12:00 12:30 PRISTINA (6Y) 1234567 18:00 18:30 1234567 06:00 07:25 ROME (AZ) 1234567 10:00 11:25 1234567 12:05 13:30 ROME (AZ) 1234567 22:00 23:25 1–3–––– 07:30 08:55 ROME (LZ) 1–3–––– 10:00 11:30 –2–4–67 12:10 13:35 ROME (LZ) –2–4–67 14:40 16:10 ––––5–– 17:00 18:25 ROME (LZ) ––––5–– 19:45 21:00 1–––––– 05:00 06:20 ROME (LV) 1–––––– 07:30 09:00 ––3––6– 09:00 10:20 ROME (LV) ––3––6– 11:30 13:00 –2––––– 03:45 06:35 SOFIA (FB) 1–––––– 17:30 18:40 ––––5–– 11:20 13:59 SOFIA (FB) –––4––– 21:10 22:15 –––––6– 12:10 14:10 STUTTGART (LZ) –––––6– 15:50 17:50 –2––5–– 18:00 19:40 TRIESTE (LZ) –2––5–– 20:40 22:30 1–3–5–– 13:55 15:55 TURIN (LV) 1–3–5–– 16:55 18:55 ––––––7 09:00 11:00 TURIN (LV) ––––––7 12:00 14:00 –2––––– 07:10 09:00 TURIN (LZ) –2––––– 10:00 11:50 ––––––7 18:10 20:00 TURIN (LZ) –––––6– 21:00 22:50 1–3–5–– 05:00 06:35 VIENNA (OS) –2–4–6– 22:15 23:55 1234567 14:20 16:00 VIENNA (OS) 1234567 10:50 12:25 1–––5–– 12:10 14:10 ZURICH (LZ) 1–––5–– 15:50 17:50 ––––5–– 13:45 15:45 ZURICH (LV) –––––6– 16:30 18:30 –––4––– 16:45 18:45 ZURICH (LV) –––4––– 19:30 21:30 This selected schedule is valid until March 2011. Closed Sat. except for a small room in the departures area. tel. 41 Airport & Airlines Tirana International Airport (TIA. but we’re working on it. Sat 09:00 . Blv.belleair. tel. www. Rr. A taxi to the airport costs about €20. adria@adriaalbania. www. Sat. The small departures area has fashion. Closed Sun.15:00. Flights to Rome. Alitalia (AZ) H-5. from June-Sept. com. tel.com. The airport is 17km northwest of Tirana along a new access road. Once you’re here. Rr. tickets cost 250 lek and the trip takes 30-45 minutes. Albania T-shirts.17:00. For the full schedule. 1010 Tel / Fax: +3554 450 55 55. www.40 GETTING AROUND Arriving in Tirana is not as straightforward and smooth as it should be. A3 = Aegean.com. OP = Olympic Air . Blv. 6Y = Tafa Air.com. AZ = Alitalia.com/al. Summertime flights to Cologne.18:00. Sat 08:00 . Dëshmorët e 4 shkurtit. Arr. 720 lek for a day and 3000 lek per week. +355 4 224 01 75. Flights to several European destinations. books. bus or car. British Airways (BA) www. Airport facilities include free wifi and an Adrion press shop (open 03:00-21:00) selling newspapers. germanwings. ticketing@albanianair. Mob: +355 67 20 34 267 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. tel.austrian.albaniadutyfree. Closed Sun. Albanian Airlines (LV) E-3. tel. +355 4 223 00 23. Mine Peza. +355 69 206 66 26. www. tel.com) is officially named Nënë Tereza or Mother Teresa airport.albanianair.al.

one traffic light further along the Durrës highway. one traffic light beyond Zogu I Zi 07:00 . www. tel. 05:15. fax +355 4 223 45 78. air-conditioning. Buses to Shkodra depart nearby. Those heading to the north (Shkodra.office@ austrian.18:00.inyourpocket. 12:00. Turkish Airlines (TK) E-4. Dëshmorët e Kombit. Furgons heading southeast for Elbasan. Minibuses (furgons) depart as soon as they’re full. Malev (MA) F-5. Most bus departures are between early morning and early afternoon. +355 4 222 89 60. Olympic Airways (OA) D-4. QOpen 08:30 .13:00. Also at the airport: tel.com . starting from various places in town. Rr. twice hourly 2 hrs 400 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori 05:00-18:30 4 hrs 800 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori 06:00-14:00 5 hrs 800 lek Laprak. Blv. open 09:0017:00. tel. Those south to Berat.16:00 hourly 4 hrs 600 lek Qemal Stafa Stadium 07:00. twice hourly 40 min 150 lek Train station 07:00 .15:00.13:00. twice hourly 2 hrs 400 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori 06:00-19:00.com. For Himare and the Riviera coast. Flights to Budapest. QOpen 09:00 . or times Duration Price 06:00 .us/albania/ furgon. Vlora. prices and departure points. from Rruga Karl Gega. hourly 2 hrs 300 lek Train station / Zogu i ZI KUKES 06:00 . +355 4 238 19 26. Enonomic faculty 07:00 . A very useful online furgon and bus schedule with departures from Tirana can be found at http://www. tirana. See the timetable for approximate operating hours. 08:00 20:00 09:00 21:00 20:00 08:00 06:00 17:00 06:00 17:00 06:00 17:00 06:00 17:00 19:00 08:00 18:00 05:00 21:00 05:00 Company Interlines Interlines Drita Sondor Sondor Monopol Drita Drita Sondor Sondor From Blv Zog I Blv Zog I Museum Museum Museum Museum Museum Museum Museum Museum Price (one way) €25 €25 €35 €20 €20 €20 €20 €25 €20 €20 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. so it’s all a bit of a Balkan mess.17:00. so it’s best to set off early.lufthansa. etc) leave from Sheshi Zogu i Zi or from Laprak. 14:00 4 hrs 500 lek Nëshërak 04:00. QOpen 08:30 .turkishairlines. +355 4 222 79 00. Long-distance buses Despite the importance of bus travel in Albania. increasingly comfor table and with Furgon (minibus) schedule From Tirana City BAJRAM CURRI BERAT DURRËS ELBASAN FIER GJIROKASTRA PESHKOPI POGRADEC KORCA KRUJA PERMET SARANDA Departs from: First-last bus + frequency. tel. Rogner Europapark Hotel. Only the most popular cities also have connections in the late afternoon too.matinic. 22:00 SHKODRA 07:00-16:00. Sat 09:00 . +355 4 223 49 02/+355 4 222 89 60. 16:00. It’s a good idea to ask around for the exact departure locations before travel. Arr. www. Zog I. Blv. sometimes trawling through the streets to find more passengers to cram in. Flights to Athens. 7 hrs 1200 lek Nëshërak 09:30. Torre Drin Centre. Sun 10:00-15:00.sarakotravel. info@ sarakotravel.15:00. change buses at Vlora. Flights to Istanbul. Gjirokastra and Saranda depart from Nëshërak and Sheshi 21 Djetori.com. Sun 09:00 . Sat.17:00 twice hourly 1. 10:00. com. www.olympic-airways. 18:00 45 min 150 lek Zogu i Zi 06:30. Closed Sun.42 GETTING AROUND Lufthansa (LH) G-5. Abdi Toptani. west of the centre. Closed Sat. Bus transport is either in normal buses.16:00 hourly 3 hrs 500 lek Qemal Stafa Stadium. inform locally for more details. Sun. 15:00. fax +355 4 223 50 26. Sat 08:30 . Sheshi Skenderbej. Kukës. Tirana International Hotel.5 hrs 300 lek Rruga Elbasanit 06:00-17:00. www. To Tirana Dep. where you’ll also find most of the ticketing agencies. Veve Business Centre.16:00 2 hrs 8000 lek Zogu i Zi VLORA 05:30-16:30.14:00 6 hrs 1000 lek Zogu i Zi 06:30-18:00. twice hourly 3 hrs 500 lek Nëshërak / 21 Dhjetori Approximate times only. or in minivans called furgons which may be a bit cheaper and faster. Flights to Munich.com. International buses often depart from behind the National History Museum. 07:00.com. fax +355 4 222 89 61. QOpen 09:00 .php. tel. Sat. Tirana has no bus station and few scheduled departures. Closed Sun. +355 4 223 50 28/+355 4 223 50 29. but take risks in blind corners. Pogradec and Korça will most likely depart from beside the Qemal Stafa stadium and trawl around on Rruga Elbasan.17:00. International bus schedule From Tirana Departure Arrival City 15:30 06:30 ATHENS 04:00 19:00 ATHENS 08:00 20:00 ATHENS 18:00 05:00 PEJA 18:00 05:00 PRISTINA 18:00 05:00 PRISTINA 18:00 06:00 PRISTINA 08:00 19:00 THESSALONIKI 18:00 05:00 SKOPJE 21:00 05:00 TETOVO Check all times before travelling. com. Buses to Durrës depart very regularly from beside the train station. 08:30.

H. +355 4222 22 72.com. Danny .com. 26 63 89/068 20 55 806. I hope that mosaic decoration will be used along with carved marble to add as much quality to the interior finishes as is possible. Blv. USA Balkania & Albania Interlines D-4. QOpen 08:00 . The agencies have desks at the airport. nice people. QOpen 08:00 . Spain Serendipity My favourite place. 4. Europcar E-5.15:00. Zogu I. +355 4 222 78 88/+355 68 209 39 22. Local car rental agency with offices in various cities.19:00. Rr. tel.19:00. Athens and Thessaloniki.18:00. Buses to Pristina. Zogu I. +355 4 223 50 21/+355 68 409 58 75. QOpen 08:30 .16:00.com.16:00. Turkey Era Garzi the camp waiter provides excellent and friendly service. Petrol costs about 165 lek per litre. but despite the apparent chaos traffic doesn’t really move very fast. Tirana In Your Pocket! Pat Williams . tel.sondortravel. Eva Agolli . QOpen 08:00 . Also at Hotel Sheraton (tel.21:00.com. +355 4 225 90 20.com Tirana In Your Pocket .MA.com. open 08:00 . Facebook fans get 10% off for short rentals. Sh.com. reservations@noshi. 10.Tirana Rockwood A great place. When parking. +355 4 223 50 11. A Budget H-6. QOpen 08:00 . office@lumani-enterprise.com. Blv. Budget rental of Chevrolet. Small cars from €100 per weekend. Sun 08:00 . Closed Sun.com. QOpen 07:00 . Closed Sun. Tirana Metropol E-4. Sun 08:30 . Buses to Kosovo.inyourpocket. +355 4 226 25 11/+355 69 205 87 75. so inform them in advance. QOpen 08:00 . Renting a car costs from around €45 per day for the cheapest model.Las Vegas Lollipop Looooooooooooooooooove it! Thanks for many many MANY great evenings! Anke . Tirana International Hotel.com.Tirana The ham was of superior quality.14:00) and the airport (tel.20:00. +355 4 225 12 77.interlines@hotmail. David De Mille . QOpen 08:00 . open 08:30 . +355 67 203 42 67. EuroInterlines D-4. tel. below every review on www. Sondor E-4. Dëshmorët e Kombit. www. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Sun 09:00 . Rogner Hotel Europapark.avis.com. Nd. The only part of the new cathedral worth anything is the great dome from the interior. tel.al. But it’s a pity that smoking is allowed. You too can add your opinion. tel. Rr. Sheshi Skënderbej. fax +355 4 227 19 60. 044 68 38 78). tel. QOpen 08:00 .tirana-carrentals. in a nice area. Hertz E-4. Anton . www.inyourpocket. 068 20 55 807).com.17:00. www. Sat. www. Lumani F-5.Belgium TIYP I like your site. Also at the airport. tel. fax +355 4 224 65 11. food is good and inexpensive.18:00.5. tel.com. Sun 08:30 . It’s a pity they don’t have Spanish wine! Silvia . +355 4 225 36 39/+355 69 284 72 01. tel. info@sondortravel. I strongly recommend the excellent desserts! Munife Danaci. www. Rr. Sixt E-3. Closed Sun.20:00. Noshi Rent a Car D/E-3. Macedonia and Montenegro. Also at the airport. nice music. Rr.com. beautiful people.England A great and very busy restaurant in a very hip neighborhood. Buses to Kosovo (Pristina office tel. but these are often only manned on demand.webs. www.europcar.al.19:00.dritatravel.hertz.Danbury CT. www.com. Strongly recommend. tirana-metropol@live. Sat. Sun 08:00 . The only central parking garage can be found below the Vesa Center on Rruga Abdyl Frashëri.com. and the atmosphere is nice and peaceful.18:30. +355 4 240 03 00/+355 69 203 78 24. Durrësit 61. beware of Tirana’s new and effective tow-trucks.14:00. reservation@ budget.Barcelona. Buses to Greece.tirana. Dëshmorët e Kombit. www. Kavajës 116. USA Bonaparte It has a nice and warmly ambience. Rr. Blv.com. www. Closed Sun.19:00.al. signs and general discipline makes driving in Tirana adventurous. +355 4 222 50 63/+355 69 239 49 29. europcar@abissnet. Make sure you have the agency helpline number and a good map before setting off. tel. 044 614 814.lumanienterprise. Closed Sun. Ded Gjon Luli. P. Great food and friendly staff. albania. Next time with my friend Alvaro we will go again since they serve tapas there. info@tirana-car-rentals.budget. Sat 09:00 . Tirana Car Rentals (TCR) I-4. tel. Peja office tel. avis@avis. Sat 08:00 .com.USA Charl’s Bistro Simply the best. Avis H-5.New York. noshi. Buses from Shkodra via Tirana to Athens. Blv. Irish Bar Nice place. QOpen 08:00 . +355 69 206 85 00). 39. Car rental Lack of parking space./fax +355 4 450 55 55. We had a ball and judging by the exuberant crowds Charl’s was making a lot of people happy. diesel 160 lek per litre. Excellent food from a first-class chef. Also at the airport (tel. tel. tel.20:30.net. Viola .16:00. 11.e-sixt.17:00. Opel.com. +355 4 225 18 66. Zogu I.20:00.Italy Wine Spirit Wine Spirit has become my expat haunt. www. eurodrita@yahoo. Sat 08:00 . Blv.18:00. Blv. Elbasanit.14:00. www. +355 4 224 05 11/+355 69 205 10 72.al. Alda . and the perfect combination of spirits both intellectual and alcoholic! An absolute must on the regular nights’ out list! Lori . QOpen 08:00 . Durrësit 79. Rogner Europapark Hotel. tel. Zogu I. USA Orthodox Cathedral The modern style is a tragedy in the making.44 GETTING AROUND What you said A selection of reader’s comments from the Tirana In Your Pocket website. tirana. Tony . Closed Sun. hertz@albaniaonline. Emily . QOpen 08:30 19:00. Rr. Avis operates a fleet of Opel and Chevrolet vehicles. eurointerlines39@ymail. QOpen 08:00 .al.albinterlines. Drita E-4. They make the best tapas in Albania! Do not forget to try the Eros Pizza. The first bus agency to have a website and online booking. Hyundai and Mitsubishi cars.Tirana Istanbul The food is delicious.

tel. tel.20:00. Arr. though the run to Durrës is perfectly bearable. 2011) tirana. ATHS E-3. The days of dilapidated old state buses conking out in the middle of the road are over . A Albania Holidays Rr. Price DURRËS 06:15 07:15 70 lek DURRËS 08:45 09:45 70 lek 08:30 09:31 DURRËS 09:20 10:20 70 lek 14:10 15:07 DURRËS 13:05 14:04 70 lek 15:25 16:23 DURRËS 17:01 70 lek 16:30 17:27 DURRËS 16:45 17:43 70 lek 19:55 20:48 DURRËS 20:05 21:05 70 lek 14:10 18:20 ELBASAN 05:40 09:55 190 lek 05:30 13:10 POGRADEC 12:50 19:35 295 lek 13:15 16:50 SHKODRA 05:40 08:30 145 lek 16:25 22:15 VLORA 04:30 10:25 250 lek Timetable and prices correct at time of publication. Closed Sun. Public transport Tirana has a few bus lines. Sheshi Italia. Taxis Taxis are a useful form of transport in Tirana. marked on the map in this guide. Blv. +355 68 212 55 75/+355 68 605 55 31.kosovo-young. lisejda. QOpen 08:00 . car rental and tours. +355 4 223 24 24.com Tirana In Your Pocket ./fax +355 4 222 89 87. albtours@albaniaonline. Rr.com. QOpen 08:00 . com. shk. Tirana’s train station is a basic metal and concrete shed next to the dusty Durrës bus parking lot. Tiranë. fax +355 4 223 54 98.com. A Frashëri. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit.gulliver-ok. Myslym shyri.com. www. Both the Tirana Backpacker Hostel (1. +355 4 225 10 94. There’s no left luggage office.net.com. Outdoor Albania H-5/6.46 GETTING AROUND Train schedule To Tirana To Tirana City Dep. Vortek. Few drivers speak English. Online booking (in Albanian) possible. info@gulliverok.Tel: 04-224-0955 Blv.inyourpocket. activities are limited to snowshoeing and hiking.20:00. Rr. tel.000 lek per day) and Hostel Albania have bikes that are for rent. to be paid to the conductor on board. Travel terms aeroplane ferry airport car train bus station (train.19:00. makinë tren autobus stacion (tren.com.1 Apt. See also their booking site www. Between 22:00 and 07:00 the flagfall is 350 lek.albaniaholidays. +355 4 224 44 44/+355 68 224 44 44. tel. Mine Peza 2. Several companies use meters and can print receipts. also at Rr. £1 = 166 lek.Tel: 05-222-2621 QOpen 08:00 . Closed Sun. taking a bus is faster and more comfortable. and has no services to neighbouring countries./fax +355 4 222 71 21. tel. cycling around Tirana is a delight. Ismail Qemali 34/1. Zogu I. ATEX (Airport Express Taxi) Rr. Sheshi Skënderbej. www.Durrës. +355 4 225 33 43. Arr. QOpen 08:00 . Taxis to/from the airport for 2. Gulliver OK D-4. magictours@albmail. or to call someone who can explain. Also at Librit Universitar. Sat 08:00 . US$1 = 103 lek (Feb 5.net. Zogu I. The Tirana Backpacker Hostel also offers guided bike day trips to Mount Dajti. Durrës.19:00. Kryesor. Closed Sun. so it’s a good idea to write down the address. QOpen 09:00 . fax +355 4 225 33 42. Closed Sat. From Tirana Dep. Closed Sun.com. Train station B-4.boshnjaku@atex. Kruja and other destinations.magictours-al. Pall. e Saracëve. +355 4 223 56 88. alexperience@albaniaonline. bus) Is it far? left right where am I? avion traget aeroport veture.com visit: www. +355 67 208 01 91/+355 67 200 88 73.500 lek between 21:00 and 07:00.17:00. Tickets can be bought just before departure. mountain biking.Rr. Trains Albania’s railway network is basic and slow. www. A ticket costs 30 lek per ride regardless of distance. Travel agent with offices in Tirana’s city centre and airport.travel-tirana. tel. also runs an agency and the local tourism office in Korça. mountaineering. Tirana Taxi Rr. AE can also book top-end Tirana hotels at big discounts. Bike rental On quiet weekends. or 2. Sami Frasheri.com hotel booking website. they’re the only game in town. www. Travel agents Tirana’s travel agents can arrange everything from plane tickets to hotel bookings.8.al.20:00.com. QOpen 09:00 . Magic Tours D-4. contact@albania-holidays. 20. +355 69 203 28 90. www. Guided city tours. Closed Sun. Blv. Berat.al. tel.com. Buses run every 6-15 minutes between 05:00 and 22:00. dipped liberally in advertising. Qendra Metropol.plazh. Albtours H-4.atex./fax +355 4 227 20 55. rafting. Mine Peza 102. taxikorrekt@hotmail. kayaking.Tirana has a fleet of privately-run buses. 05:30 06:27 Radio Taxi Rr. Te Selvia. 72. €1 = 140 lek. Sheraton Hotel. Near the Sky Tower. QOpen 08:30 . www. Pall.000 lek. tel. Veve Business Center. our experience so far is that drivers do not have to be reminded to use them.albania-experience. daytrips to Apolonia. Closed Sun. tel.com.outdooralbania.20:00. +355 4 222 76 26/+355 67 205 11 40 (airport). paragliding and 4WD trips. tel. In winter. and after 22:00.17:00. tel. Runs the www. Rates start at 300 lek for the first 2km (sufficient for most city centre trips) and 95 lek/km after that (count on paying 500-700 lek for a ride to the outskirts). Daytrips in the mountains near Tirana too.com.16:00. Sun. Tailor-made tours with activities such as trekking. Sami Frashëri. Info@outdooralbania.albania-hotel. and plane tickets. tel. Rr. check all details in advance. autobus) A është Iarg? majtas djathas ku jam? Albania Experience J-5. www.com. Tirana International Hotel. Unless you’re a train fan. Sat 08:30 .

Rr. TNT E-4. QOpen 08:00 . com. fax +355 4 227 52 43. If you don’t plan to talk away a whole card. N°5. tel. IYP will launch the very first iPhone city guide in Albania. +355 4 228 32 01/+355 69 222 01 11. view maps online and offline. DHL E-4. +355 4 229 01 00.e-global. It’s also available free at the airport. +355 4 225 32 03/+355 4 223 50 56.dhl. e-mail solutions. www. +355 4 225 60 01.albaniancourier. Veve Business Center. Calling Albania from abroad Dial the country code (355). fax +355 4 229 01 90.com.19:00. Closed Sun. Rr. fax +355 4 223 54 89.com. www. Salloni Mazda.18:00. +355 4 223 49 14. 7 ditë në javë në shërbimin tuaj Tel: +355 (4) 2357 976/152/149. info@eaglemobile. Ftesa. tel. You can easily purchase pre-paid SIM cards for around 600 lek at the providers’ Global I-4. support@adanet. In the internet cafés listed below. www. com.primo. info@plus. VPN. Tiranë-Durrës highway. al. Call 14 for domestic directory assistance. tel.Reshit Çollaku 4. Browse through the full guide. shops. when the new Tirana In Your Pocket app becomes available in the Apple online store. QOpen 09:00 . Eagle Mobile numbers with 067. +355 4 450 15 00. Also at the airport. QOpen 09:00 . Tring Communications Rr. al. Closed Sun.22:00. www. Zogu i Parë.al. Donika Kastrioti 4. Albania Online Rr. Fatura. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. though not the cheapest. hosting.13:00 for parcels). fax +355 4 225 60 02.. Sat 08:00 .al. +355 4 480 00 00.al. Perlat Rexhepi 13. Call 124 for directory assistance. al.al. km 8. QOpen 08:00 . +355 4 235 79 76. QOpen 08:00 . Good internet club with 24 computers.inyourpocket.: 04 22 59 742 Mob.tnt. Vodafone H-4.al. postashqiptare. 50 unit cards cost 560 lek. Çameria.al.com.al. and let your phone guide you to any reviewed place using GPS. wifi. www.fedex. Dhurata. Telephone calls International calls Dial the international access number (00). tel. www. Tower 6. Abissnet Rr.tring. 100 units 980 lek. fax +355 4 225 97 70. fax +355 4 225 11 33. data transmission.17:00. +355 67 219 03 39. QOpen 08:30 . Kulla 2. Public telephones Some pay phones do work. Dervish Hima 1. but those at hotels and post offices often work better. Murat Toptani 12. tel. +355 4 227 50 00. +355 4 225 97 42. tel.13:00. expect to pay 100-150 lek per hour for internet access (and plenty of noise from little boys playing Counterstrike).net.com. Closed Sun. Ismail Qemali. Basement internet café with helpful staff and a bar. you can rent one from the ‘businessmen’ lingering near the phone boxes. tel. 200 units 1800 lek. e-gl0bal@hotmail.al Këto dhe shumë shërbime të tjera në të gjitha agjencitë: Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. tel. +355 4 225 63 06. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit..org. Donika Kastrioti 4. People on the street also sell cards. Rr. www. www. Recharge cards are widely available across the country. Mobile phones Four providers are active in Albania. dial 0. Rr.com Spring/Summer 2011 . the city code and the subscriber’s number. posta@postashqiptare. S h ë r b i m e të s h p e j t a p o s t a re Dorëzojmë kudo dhe në kohë: Dokumente. tel. www. tel. EMS F-4.02:00. Rr.com. QOpen 09:00 .al. Nikolla Tupe 1b. QOpen 09:00 . “Ismail Qemali”. Country codes Albania Australia Austria Belarus Belgium Bulgaria Croatia Czech Rep. Also at Rr.17:30.com/ al.al Internet cafés Free wifi is increasingly common in city-centre cafés.ups. Ada Net Rr. www. Albanian telephone codes Berat 32 Kuçova Durrës 52 Kukës Elbasan 54 Laç Fier 34 Lezha Gjirokastra 84 Librazhdi Kavaja 554 Lushnjë Korça 82 Peqin Kruja 511 Përmet 33 24 30 36 353 35 512 813 Peshkopi Pogradec Saranda Shijak Shkodra Tepelena Tirana Vlora 373 832 85 571 22 814 4 47 Express mail The safest.albaniancourier. tel. +355 4 222 62 82. aloperations@unitrans.48 MAIL & PHONES Post Central Post office F-4. QOpen 08:00 . al.com.vodafone. digital cable TV and telephony services. www. Broadband internet. Telephone cards are available at post offices. Don’t let them get away until you have verified the card at a public telephone. tel. Local calls Tirana numbers have seven digits.courier@albaniancourier. QOpen 08:30 . Kartolina . Mine Peza 2. www.al. www. Vaso Pasha. restaurants and hotel lobbies such as the Rogner. Prices will run about 15-20 lek per unit. Plus with 066 and Vodafone numbers with 069.21:00. Closed Sun. way to send valuable or urgent items. QOpen 08:30 . Nr. Kati II. Sky Tower. tel. Don Bosko. the country code.12:00. tel. www. com.abcom.al.21:00. UPS H-4.com. Rr.albaniaonline. Rr. fax +355 4 480 00 01. Sat 09:00 . ulysses-fedex@icc-al. Dërgesa Ekspres në Gjithë Botën • Shërbim postar derë më derë Brenda 24 orëve • Avion i dedikuar çdo ditë • Shërbime dhe opsione të shumëllojshme • Ndjekje e pakos dhe dorëzim online Rr. Mob: 068 4000660/069 4000660/067 2000660.al.: 067 20 48 904 068 20 48 904 069 20 48 904 aloperations@unitrans. contact_us@amc. Myslim Shyri 6 and at the airport.21:00. +355 4 450 01 39. tel. +355 4 560 06 24. fax +355 4 225 36 30. Denmark Estonia Finland France Germany Greece 355 61 43 375 32 359 385 420 45 372 358 33 49 30 Hungary Ireland Israel Italy Japan Kosovo Latvia Lithuania Moldova Montenegro Netherlands Norway Poland Portugal 36 353 972 39 81 381 371 370 373 382 31 47 48 351 Romania Russia Serbia Slovakia Slovenia Spain Sweden Switzerland Turkey UK Ukraine USA 40 7 381 421 386 34 46 41 90 44 380 1 Tirana IYP iPhone app This spring. info@ abcom. (08:00 .al.QOpen 09:00 . Sat 09:00 .al. New cards should be wrapped in clear plastic. www. Pako.al. beware that you’ll likely be paying more.12:00.abissnet.com. info@albaniancourier.inyourpocket. Internet providers ABCOM Rr..13:00.al. Rr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Rr. you’ll need ID and a local address (which can be that of your hotel). www.14:00. Kompleksi Green Park. dhlalbania@dhl. FedEx F-6. tntalbania@yahoo. Eagle Mobile H-4. Primo Rr. Closed Sun.amc. all starting with a 2 or a 3. +355 4 222 76 67. +355 4 225 11 22. Sat 09:00 . Albania. Blv.13:00.adanet. +355 4 225 88 28.com tirana. www. Sat 09:00 .21:00. Rr. MAIL & PHONES Post rates Postal rates for postcards/letters (under 20gr) are: Albania 20 lek Europe 40 lek Elsewhere 60 lek 49 Net 1 I-4. Albanian Courier Tirana-Durrës highway. Top-Net H-4.al. AMC numbers start with 068. fax +355 4 225 97 43. +355 4 240 0123. The club also offers a cinema where DVD movies are screened. info@tring. National calls For calls outside Tirana. Tel .17:00.al.al.postashqiptare. tel. then the city code (Tirana is 4) or the mobile phone number without the initial zero. QOpen 08:00 . Ismail Qemali 32/1. 32/1 Tiranë.eaglemobile. www. fax +355 4 225 11 33.plus. Rr. the area code and the subscriber’s number. National rates for pre-paid calls are between 30-55 lek per minute. Sun 10:00 . tel. info@abissnet.04:00. AMC (Albanian Mobile Communications) G/H-4. tel. sales@primo.20:00. Fax: +355 (4) 357 977 E-mail: albanian. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Plus H-4.com. www. tel.al.

For clothes the story is slightly different. dolls and bunker ashtrays at the southern end of Rr. Rr. Friend’s Book House G-3.com. check out this oneman show. +355 4 225 02 18. www. QOpen 09:30 . See http://sites. QOpen 09:00 . Souvenirs & Gifts The best souvenir shopping is north of Tirana in Kruja. info@apple-albania. and there’s great variety. Shoe boutique. bowling and tea sessions. Albania’s first large DIY market also stocks useful things for travellers. Shtepia e Librit D-4. QOpen 09:00 .com of Facebook for more information. +355 69 217 73 05 Speciality shops La Casa del Habano J-5. Rr. Internations The www. The QTU centre along the Durres highway was the first in 2005.20:00. +355 69 202 90 58. Q Open Apr-Sept 09:00-22:00.albaniabook. +355 4 238 84 50. Cohiba and Monte Cristo cigars. Rr. QOpen 08:30 . tel. magazines and books on Albania. Frang Bardhi.22:00. Sheshi Italia. Natyra H-5/6.cityparkalbania.internations.21:00. Myslym Shyri 64.com/site/ twigtirana/home for more information or email to twigboard@gmail. the collection here is mainly Albanian though some English titles can be found too.20:30.com. There are also some kiosks selling Albania mugs. tel.lefutur. 18:00-21:30. www. Galeria Mall G-5. www.com. Art Galleries Galeria Te & Gi D-2/3.com. Papa Gjon Pali II. Closed Sun.inyourpocket.com. Elbasanit. info@kristalcenter. Pirro Souvenirs I-4. Flowers Kaktus I-4. Shopping is still best in the established areas such as in the bllok district and along Rruga Myslym Shyri where you’ll find many boutiques. Citypark Albania Tirana-Durrës highway.com. A modern shopping centre with a Conad supermarket and a cinema complex. Tirana’s first gallery. Also at the airport. including some very nice landscapes. QOpen 09:00 . Sami Frashëri.shtepiaelibrit. but the selection isn’t great so bring fodder from abroad if you want to read something specific while you’re here. +355 4 223 06 16. +355 69 204 96 54. Blv. +355 68 416 63 37. +355 4 223 27 68.com to get on the mailing list. www. tel. Also delivers flowers. Durrësit 144a. Blv. antique chests. a 550 square metre skating rink. Rr. Just beyond the airport turn-off. Tirana Dinner Club Every Wednesday. check these shops in Tirana. entertainment and events. QOpen 08:00 . Rr. between 300-4. Blv. The mall attached to the Sheraton hotel has a café. Sheshi Italia.kalimancaribe. Free shuttle bus from Sheshi Skenderbeg square. Sun 10:00 . and try. or just drinks for those who aren’t. ABA Business Center. Housed in the European Trade Centre building behind the pyramid. Rr. tel. but the city is actually a great shopping destination. Everybody welcome. Sheshi Skenderbej. Çajupi. tel. The Rogner hotel lobby bar has foreign newspapers available for reading. BOOKS. abstract and modern paintings. tel. All are welcome to drop by. in both the main hall and departures. where shop windows are full of jewelry. Nino Vitali F/G-3.com. You may be surprised. Rr. There’s a decent selection meats and cheeses. tel. +355 4 222 62 56. Closed Sun. QOpen 10:30 . most are of Italian quality. Albania’s largest shopping centre has some 180 shops. QOpen 10:00 . and must-have mugs depicting Enver Hoxha. DIY Praktiker Shkodra highway km 4. tel. Foreign magazines and newspapers can be found at the Adrion shop or at their stands in the Xheko Imperial and Sheraton hotel (at the Albanian Experience travel agency office).21:00. and souvenirs too. Bajram Curri. Corona E-4. Tirana’s newest book store. Deluxe smokers’ accessories and a small whiskey bar too. Vaso Pasha 99. a Mercator hypermarket.adrionltd. tel. km 6. The city centre is small and you can easily walk everywhere. +355 4 227 44 70. QOpen 08:30 . +355 4 225 47 70. electronics store and a shuttle bus from the National Museum.kristalcenter. www. A supermarket chain that (incredibly) ships everything from Italy . Boutique with women’s fashion.21:00. you’re more likely to find bargains and groovy stuff there than in the malls. com. charity events and activities including yoga. See www. tel. Kavajës 20 and Rr. Barrikadave. Sheshi Skënderbej.20:00. NEWSPAPERS MAGAZINES GIFTS AND SOUVENIRS CORONA Sheshi Skenderbej Tirana International Hotel Tel. the Galeria mall has 50 shops. +355 69 217 73 05. Next to Samsung. tel. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Sky Tower. with a small but growing selection of English titles. A local bookshop with a selection of English-language magazines and Albaniarelated books. Supermarkets Conad G-5. admin@shtepiaelibrit.Z.21:00. Tirana International Women’s Group Join the TWIG ladies for their monthly meetings. +355 4 222 55 87. Rr. +355 4 of books on Albania (or on anything else) in English. Closed Sun.coin. Vaso Pasha. Albania’s only Apple shop (guess what molla means) can be found inside the Sky Tower. +355 4 226 67 77. X-Large G-4.19:00. Brand new Italian department store with fashion and home appliances. QOpen 09:00 .org social network site has occasional expat meet-ups and activities in Tirana. bars and cafés in a pleasantly air-conditioned four-floor complex. located in a strange modern building.com Spring/Summer 2011 .qtu-al. plastic guns. food court. Also on Rr. there’s an informal Tirana expat dinner at King House. Rr. tirana. tel. Pallatet Agimi. Lots of magazines as well.14:00. tel. tel. Bajram Curri. SHOPPING Shopping centres Much to the delight of locals and foreigners alike. painting.21:00. as not all international brands are represented yet.20:00. transport for the car-less is arranged on the spot. tel. Good for colourful. tel.20:30. www. QOpen 09:00 . tel. QOpen 09:00 . www. Adrion International Books E-4.20:00. +355 4 450 32 62. QOpen 09:00 . Sheraton mall. Kristal Center Rr. 16:00-20:00. Galeria mall. 224 63 86. Send an email to tiranadinner@ gmail. Oct-Mar 09:00-21:00. inevitably followed by relaxed to strenuous drinking and late lunch session at the Chicken Shack or elsewhere. Especially shoe shopping is good. The QTU shopping centre has a supermarket. Tirana International Hotel.al.com. a food court. Il Cammino G-3. www.even the fruit and veg. tel. antiques and knickknacks.50 SHOPPING The ladies love Tirana. Bajram Curri.e Durrësit. There’s a supermarket on the ground floor. Free shuttle bus from Tirana’s main square.21:00. tegigallery@albmail. More café than bookstore. a group of expats chooses a different restaurant to eat at.22:00.21:00. and without exception the staff is friendly and reasonably competent. The best selection Expat activities New expat arrivals and any stray foreigners that find themselves wandering Tirana are welcome to mingle with Tirana’s small but active group of expats. Flowers from Greece arrive three times a week. The hotel gift shop has a good selection of newspapers. +355 4 480 10 28. Libraria Albania H-3. km 8. Imported flowers and luxury bouquets. Everything from desktop rocket launch installations to wallets made from South African licence plates.com. Closed Sun. A Sheraton Plaza J-5. Tirana has been enriched with several malls or smaller shopping galleries over the past years. Bajram Curri. Tirana Hash Every Saturday the family-friendly Tirana Hash (10-70 Albanians and expats) meets at 11:30 for a relaxed to strenuous walk or run somewhere near Tirana. Bul.14:00.21:00. King House serves food for those who are hungry. Myslym Shyri. Books Tirana has a number of shops selling English literature. Cartoonland. Rr. or old books.14:00. +355 38 01 00.20:30.com. If you’re looking for folk costumes. Rr. Merkom E-3. 51 Electronics Molla G/H-4. On the first floor of the new Galeria Nasional shopping centre. A. tel. QOpen 08:00 . Fashion Benetton G-5. Bajram Curri. A good selection of handicrafts and souvenirs. Rr. QOpen 09:00 . custom-made bouquets. Art Forever G/H-4. Near the corner with Blv. QOpen 09:00 .google. books@ adrionltd. The only place in the country to buy. King Zog and Mother Teresa among others. 17:00 . and several city-centre and peripheral malls have followed.inyourpocket. Open 09:00 . Sun 09:00 . selling traditional. from 19:30 till late. Q Open 09:00-14:30. www. tiranahash. Also on Rr.al. Also at (I-3) Rr. Blv. tel. King House Dinner Night Every Friday.com. www. +355 4 225 41 00. quality Habanos. Galeria mall. Kavajës. Le Futur H-4. Coin H-5. friendbookhouse@yahoo.al. QTU (Qendra Tregtare Univers) Tirana-Durrës highway. Dozens of crazy novelty gifts.000 lek. Rr. QOpen 07:00 . Barrikadave. +355 4 223 04 16. +355 4 227 01 74. tel.20:00. tel.com Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.praktiker. Sami Frashëri.com.22:00. QOpen 09:00 . Galeria Nasional mall. is still going strong. Abdyl Frashëri 6. Palace of Culture. Abdyl Frashëri. wood carvings. Pranë Urë Kamëz. they’re cheap (around 30% less than in other European cities). Italian fashion for both sexes. QOpen 24 hrs. Albanian flags. Sales and repairs of all Apple products. +355 4 227 17 49.keyrings and T-shirts. The small QTU City mall can be found on Rruga Abdyl Frashëri. QOpen 09:00 . +355 4 237 64 24.com. If you don’t have time to make the trek there. a good little supermarket and several upmarket shops. Perlat Rexhepi.

Sat 09:00 13:00. Edil Al-It. www. www. fax +355 4 224 79 12. www. Closed Sat. Abdi Topani. tel.org. tirana-ob@bmeia. B E YO N D C O M M U N I C AT I O N Embassies Many of Tirana’s embassies and consulates can be found along Rruga Skënderbej. +355 4 225 43 72/2256254./fax +355 4 226 76 81. fax +355 4 225 09 56. QOpen 08:00 15:30. Closed Sat.gov. +355 4 225 74 46/+355 4 223 15 64. Pastrim Kimik I-3. Sat. executive search. Rr. +355 4 227 60 00. Sun 07:00 .14:00. tel. info@unionbank. Petro Nini Luarasi 58. 1 Tirana. QOpen 08:30 . k. fax +355 4 226 21 83.17:00.15:30. +355 4 223 02 84. QOpen 08:30 . Training. + 3 5 5 4 2 2 7 0 1 2 5 +355 69 202 85 96 + 3 5 5 6 8 4 0 2 0 8 18 Computers Computer & Copier System (CCS) I-3. Sun. PR and events. fax +355 4 225 55 32.raiffeisen.chineseembassy. Q Open 08:30 . QOpen 10:00 . Rr. Credins Rr. www. Shk 7. QOpen 07:00 .mzv. www.com.19:00.bg. Offices usually work from 08:00-16:00 and are closed on weekends. service provider. +355 4 224 75 33.13:00.net.15:30.icbanking. al. Closed Sun. Closed Sun. www.15:00. Sun.18:00. and in the area just east of the stadium. Banks Alpha Credit Bank Rr. tel. +355 4 225 00 66. info@cci. Closed Sat. Closed Sun. Nr. bp.com.com. Rr. tel. Sun. Easy. info@raiffeisen. Closed Sat. fax +355 4 222 14 48.ccs-albania. 53 Business services ACMS (Albanian Center for Management Services) H-5. Dritan Hoxha.al. ProCredit Bank I-3.cci. Below the ProCredit Bank. Gjon Pali II.al. Emporiki Bank Albania Rr. com. Rr. QOpen 08:00 . e Kavajës. Advertising & PR Iceberg Communications I-4. QOpen 08:00 . Closed Sun. Sat 09:00 . QOpen 08:00 . +355 4 225 11 80. +355 4 225 56 55/+355 4 225 76 05. Shk. Closed Sun.com. tel. Skënderbej 12. Closed Sat.al.al. fax +355 4 222 79 97.52 DIRECTORY From foreign representations to high-finance. Abdyl Frashëri. Rr. Closed Sat. tel. Sun. +355 4 223 31 55.15:00. info@bankacredins.12:30. +355 4 227 48 55. Tirana Tower. gov. Ismail Qemali 27.al.al. At the southern end of the street. info@ cmsalbania. Dentists In Albanian. www. Ap. Bajram Curri.org. Closed Sat.cz. www.21:00.com. Albanian Business Network Rr. Hardware. ‘dental clinic’ is ‘klinika dentare’. +355 4 222 83 90/+355 4 225 69 48. fax +355 4 223 39 18. com. prodent KLINIKE D E N TA R E R r. Irfan Tomini. mfa.al. societegenerale. Skënderbej 10.com.gr. Ismail Qemali. info@procreditbank. fax +355 4 223 05 78. www.al. Closed Tue.procreditbank. www. nbgalbania@icc-al. P. Closed Sat. Ismail Qemali 21. Closed Sun. Thu. Twin Towers. QOpen 08:30 . The opening times listed here refer to the working hours of the visa/ visitor departments. G-Kam Center. tel. Qendra Eurokol. Rr. H e k l a K a t i 3 Te l.com tirana. Kavajës. Hekla. Torre Drin centre.albania@ogilvy. software. +355 4 223 29 76. National Registration Centre (Qendra Kombëtare e Regjistrimit) Rr. +355 4 232 07 72/+355 69 406 60 00. Albania Tel. Perlat Rexhepi. Blv. Infosoft Group (Gjergji Centre) F-5. www. Sami Frashëri. +355 4 228 00 00.12:00. Sat 08:30 . www. www. www. from dentists to American libraries: the Tirana In Your Pocket directory is your one stop shop for names and numbers.16:00.albania@alpha. tel.17:00. QOpen 09:00 . tiranabank.at. +355 4 223 74 14.icebergcommunication. www.al.al.amcham.com. Kati 3. office@ icebergcommunication.cmsalbania. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit.16:30.com.al. fax +355 4 224 16 87. Union Bank Blv.Sami Frashëri. www. +355 4 224 00 28. tel. Sky Tower 11/3. info@intesasanpaolobank.14:00. Chambers of Commerce American Chamber of Commerce H-4. Croatia F-5. +355 4 223 40 04/+355 4 223 21 17. Godina Comfort. fax +355 4 223 31 59. +355 4 225 90 04/5. Closed Sun.com. Tirana Chamber of Commerce & Industry E-3. Closed Sat.mvpei. www. Who wouldn’t like their dental work done by Martians? Behind the Central Bank building.com.al.com.gov. QOpen 07:00 . fax +355 4 228 04 41. fax +355 4 222 29 16. It’s highly advisable to phone in advance to check the opening times or to make an appointment. Rr.al. tirana@embassy.com. Fri 08:30 . tel. QOpen 08:30 .com. +355 4 226 96 17/8/+355 4 227 77 00. tel. Rr. tel. Kati 9. Zhan D’Ark. Him Kolli.13:00. contact@al-bn.com. +355 4 227 01 25. fax +355 4 224 09 95.12:00. Sun. www. QOpen 09:00 . ledismile@yahoo.com. tel.qkr. good prices.16:30. Skënderbej 57. www.15:00. Tirana In Your Pocket Spring/Summer 2011 . chinaemb_al@mfa. 16:00 .al. software and hardware.com.com Austria E/F-2. Fast service. tel. Bulgaria E-2. tel.al.infosoftgroup. fax +355 4 223 36 13. QOpen 08:30 .bmeia.com. tel.1. info@icbankalbania. Sun. with government employees often going home on Friday after lunch.al. Intesa Sanpaolo Bank Rr. www. Murat Toptani. businesses and investors interested in Albania. bgemb-alb@afb. DIRECTORY International Commercial Bank Rr. Gjergji Centre.al. info@ccs-albania.info@socgen. info@tiranabank.unionbank.gr. al. Rr. QOpen 08:00 . e Kavajës 27. consulting. Dry cleaners Fast Clean D-4.emporiki.hr. pall. BKT (Banka Kombëtare Tregtare) Bul. Laprakë. Tirana Bank Blv. Rr. The NRC is the one-stop-shop for business registrations in Albania.1. Closed Sat. Pallati i Kadarese. croemb. Sat 08:00 . fax +355 4 223 21 59.nbg. National Bank of Greece Rr e Durrësit. On saturday big branches are open. The best dry-cleaning in Tirana. info@qkr. A b d y l F r a s h ë r i P a l l. tel. QOpen 08:30 . tsan@ bkt. al. +355 4 225 09 55.com. ETC. Rr.com. Fri 08:30 16:00. www. tel. fax +355 4 223 53 50. www. QOpen 08:00 . tel. Sells PCs.cz/tirana. QOpen 08:00 .com. tel. fax +355 4 237 98 85. Kati 1.13:00.20:00. British Chamber of Commerce & Industry Blv. A networking organisation and business club for professionals. Alfa.20:00.15:00. QOpen 09:00 . UFO Clinic F-2. Rr.13:00. fax +355 4 224 87 62. +355 4 238 93 00. tel. Sun.al. Kati 7.al. Dëshmorët e Kombit.com. auditing and other business services.intesasanpaolobank. Rr. QOpen 08:30 . Sat 08:00 13:00. headoffice@emporiki.mzv. QOpen 08:30 .com. www.ogilvyal. Pall. Ogilvy H-4. Rr. Now floss. +355 4 227 85 00.2.abcci. Closed Sat.16:30.at. Closed Sat. ICEBERG COMMUNICATION Rr.com. tel.ledismile. Pall.cosmeticdent-al. tel. al. Bardhok Biba. www. tel. info@amcham. Pall. tel. Closed Sun. fax +355 4 223 3140. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 . www.15:00. Pall. bankacredins. fax +355 4 226 30 22. Rr.17:00.com.Pallati 3. Sat 09:00 . arkonda@yahoo. Komuna e Parisit. info@cosmeticdent-al.com. Sun. Kavajës 6. Tirana Centre G-3. "Perlat Rexhepi". QOpen 08:30 . al-bn. Near Albanian Telecom. +355 4 225 87 55. others from 08:00 -12:00 Raiffeisen Bank Blv. +355 4 228 04 42. QOpen 08:00 .&Fax: +355 4 2267681 Mob: +355 69 20 62050 contact@icebergcommunication. Sun. tel."Edil-al". China E-2. +355 4 223 40 96. info@abcci. Sat 08:00 . Kulla 1.gv. tirana.14 katësh.16:00.gv. tel.com. Publicity.inyourpocket.22:00.alphabank. tel. +355 68 385 95 50.15:00. tel. www.com www. copy machines. Rr.al. Sun. tel.hr. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Zogu I.com. 1001.icebergcommunication. www. Sulejman Delvina pranë Stadiumit Dinamo.com. Sun. Rr. fax +355 4 223 29 90. +355 4 225 06 53. Sat 08:00 . marketing. Closed Sun. Murat Toptani. tel.cn. fax +355 4 226 24 19. +355 4 234 10 20.com. Sun. ogilvy.al.19:00. Czech Republic E-2. tel. Société Générale Albania Blv. Sun. fax +355 4 223 22 72.O Box: 2400/1. Closed Sun. Pall 10 katesh. tel. fax +355 4 225 43 68. fax +355 4 223 55 77. +355 4 225 97 79.inyourpocket. +355 4 238 13 81. Prodent F-1.13:30. 8:00 -13:00. Sat 08:00 .bkt. 11/1.com Ledismile Dental Clinic Rr. +355 4 223 23 85.16:00. Frederik Shiroka 3. al.12:00. QOpen 09:00 .tirana@mvpei. www. fax +355 4 22719 60.

www.vertretung@eda. QOpen 09:30 . Sun. Closed Sat. Emergency numbers: Police 129. Turkey I-6. Skënderbej 14. www. +355 4 226 13 09. QOpen 10:00 . Rr. www. ambiran@ icc. rusemb@albmail.ukinalbania. QOpen 09:00 . +355 4 227 45 05/+355 4 227 45 06.gov. Iran H-5. Closed Sat. www.gr. Sun.16:30.hu/emb/tirana. Asim Zeneli 10. Wed. QOpen 08:00 . tel. Sun. tel. Rr. Elbasanit 103. Fri. Gjon Pali II. info@albinvest. Skënderbej 12. Closed Sat.borova@yahoo. Donika Kastrioti 9/1. tel. Closed Sat. Netherlands H-5.mfa. Sun. www. Hair. Themistokli Gërmenji 1. Vila Park. Nikolla Tupe 1. Rr. Donika Kastrioti 2.de. tirana.gov.gov. QOpen 08:00 .13:00. QOpen 08:30 .tirana.mfa. Rr.17:00. ambassaden.tirana@sida. tel. Perlat Rexhepi 16/6.gov.uk. tel. Closed Sat. Q Open Mon. Pall. Tirana’s best gym.gov.ambafrance-al. Rr. +355 4 223 35 16. fax +355 4 223 22 95.14:00. Consulates in Gjirokastra and Korça.org. maec.es. fax +355 4 227 49 00.al. Beauty & Wellness Ardi Hair Fashion H-3.15:00. Da Shanghai Health Centre I-3. Closed Sat.admin. fax +355 4 223 20 01. United States I-6.al. fax +355 4 223 41 40. Serbia H-4.albinvest.com . Frederik Shiroka 3. +3554 4 223 09 09. Closed Sat.gov.net.al. fax +355 4 222 99 82.tirana@ esteri.eda.org.mae. QOpen 09:00 16:00. +355 4 227 46 44.sa.de. fax +355 4 223 27 23. fax +355 4 223 33 64.org.al. tel. +355 4 223 30 22/+355 4 224 79 86. +355 4 223 22 38/+355 4 223 49 03. Closed Sat. Closed Sat. adf@ albaniandf. tel.ch/tirana. Rr. Beside the Vila Park hotel.gov. Closed Sat. tel. tir. Rr. +355 4 227 48 58. ch. www. +355 4 238 06 50.tirana@maec. com. QOpen 08:00 .diplo.15:00. fax +355 4 222 23 41. Vaso Pasha 7. ambafrance.mfa. tel. Switzerland H-6. with various fitness machines.13:00. tia@kum.gov. +355 4 223 48 88. QOpen 09:00 . Sun. www. Egypt E-2. Sun. Sat.12:00.16:30. Durrësit 123.12:00. egyemb@ albaniaonline. Italy H-5. Skënderbej 43. tir@minbuza. 2. Sun. +355 4 222 24 11. Rr. Rr. gremb.kesh. QOpen 08:00 . Fri 09:00 .usembassy. France E-2. 14:30-17:00. fax +355 4 223 48 89. inuria@ instat. fax +355 4 222 13 11. tel. albania@mfa.ru. info@ tira. Sun. EGT Tower. Rr.tirana.gov. Wed. fax +355 4 228 06 30. Rr.gov. Rr. Holy See (Vatican) D-4.mfa. ardian. com. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Spain D-2.ir. enquiries.uk. Romania H-5.tir@mfa. Sun.16:00. www. Sun. Slovenia I-4.it. +355 4 227 59 00.16:30. Closed Mon.gr/tirana. Sweden H-6. Durrësit 13. QOpen 10:00 . tel. +355 4 224 72 85.dk. gov. QOpen 09:00 . QOpen 09:00 . +355 4 228 06 00.org. Closed Sat. Sun. fax +355 4 222 54 11. Sun. Rr.tirana. www. top_technogym@ yahoo. http://tirana.gov.16:00-19:00. www. Skënderbej 1. Closed Sat. www.al. tel.mfa. Closed Sat. +355 4 223 41 90. Albinvest Blv. Closed Sat.it. steam sauna and jacuzzi.al. segreteriambasciata.16:30. Closed Sat. Professional ladies and gents salon with ammonia-free hair colouring. +355 4 224 83 06.com. nunapal@icc-al. QOpen 08:30 . Skënderbej 8.al.gov. 15:30-21:30. Governmental organisations Albania’s governmental organisations. QOpen 09:00 . +355 4 223 20 91. al. +355 4 223 49 73. +355 4 225 65 68. fax +355 4 225 60 46.eg. tel. QOpen 08:30 . Sun. Rr.15. and massage by appointment. tel. tirana@mfa. Rr. www.dk. Rr. Kavajës 116. Sheraton Hotel.15 . Closed Sat. mission. fax +355 4 224 76 97.org. fax +355 4 222 83 00. Rr. tel. +355 4 225 60 71. Kati 4. fax +355 4 222 53 83. Rr.mid. Visits by appointment only. Russia H-5. fax +355 4 223 04 09.16. Skënderbej 16. www. QOpen 08:30 . “SC 19-01-10” Germany E-2. +355 4 238 03 50. embasaudarab@albaniaonline. fax +355 4 225 74 06.es. Closed Sat.me. fax +355 4 234 77 67. Pjetër Budi 76. +355 4 223 42 50.nl. +355 4 224 08 28/+355 4 224 08 26. Abdyl Frasheri 11/1. +355 4 225 60 40. tel. Sun. Macedonia F-2. Sheshi Italia. Zhan D’Ark 3.com. www. ambatira@icc-al. Workout room. fax +355 4 223 20 46. acupuncture and herbal baths (15 mins 500 lek). tel. be. fax +355 4 223 25 14.admin. Saudi Arabia D-3.11:30.18:00. Institute of Statistics (INSTAT) Blv. Closed Sun.000 lek) massages. tel. polemb@albaniaonline. Rr. Sun. Note that these often do not work on Friday afternoon.tr.tr@adanet. Hungary E-2.gov. www. QOpen 09:00 . Sun.net. Sun. National electricity corporation. Fire 128 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. tel.mk. tel. +355 4 222 49 27/+355 69 247 62 71. turkemb@atnet. Sun.hu. tel.ambtirana. tel. Montenegro G-5. Consulates in Vlora and Shkodra.12:00. Shallvareve. fax +355 4 223 20 89.inyourpocket. tel. Rr. fax +355 4 223 34 97. Closed Sat. Closed Sat. Sun.mk. Top Technogym K-4. mfa. Closed Sat. +355 4 225 28 86. KESH Rr. Sami Frashëri 10.um.net. www. www. Sun. an oxygen sauna. tel. Vasil Shanto.19:30. QOpen 08:00 .17:00.16:00. sauna. +355 4 227 49 61.gov.ambtirana. Elbasanit 65. tel. QOpen 09:00 .mfa. QOpen 24hrs.albaniandf. United Kingdom E-2. Closed Sun.gov. tel. tel. Rr. QOpen 08:00 .sweden. +355 4 227 47 07. se. Rr. Kavajës 116. Q Open 09:00-13:00. www. QOpen 24hrs. Sun.eu.ro.esteri. fax +355 4 238 06 60. QOpen 09:00 . Fri 08:00-12:00. +355 4 225 97 29. QOpen 14:00 .16:00. fax +355 4 223 22 22. Closed Sat. +355 4 227 09 67/+355 68 20 26 118. fax +355 4 223 48 85. Rr.mofa.org.mfa. 100 metres inside the Grand Park.se.17:00. Rr.13:00. Sun.11:00. emb. Mustafa Matohiti 20. tel. Sun. tel. Publishes a yearly report called Albania in Figures (Shqipëria në Shifra). Rr. Greece E/F-2.tirana@ fco. +355 4 222 76 98/+355 4 225 50 38. +355 4 223 55 97. Elbasanit 81. Rr. Culture calls Fitness centres Tirana Fitness Centre I-5.diplo.nl/tir.fco.si. QOpen 08. tel. Closed Sat. Jul Varibova 11.albania.54 DIRECTORY Denmark H/I-4.al. Poland D-2. Gjergj Fishta. fax +355 4 223 44 42. tel.com. www.rs. Rr. www. roemb@adanet. tel. Albanian Development Fund Rr. tiaamb@ um. fax +355 4 225 60 72.com. Chinese doctors perform therapeutic foot (45 mins 1500 lek) and body (60 mins 3. www.gov. 4. vti@gov.instat. www. Ap.

Sun 14:00 . waxing. dragoizjarrte@hotmail.21:00. Fushë Mëzez. Dora D’Istria. Elbasanit. with international staff and a good English-language website. +355 4 227 23 13/+355 68 206 16 00. look for the ‘Chinese massage’ sign.com. and many Albanians in the south understand Greek. A large private multi-speciality clinic near the Grand Park. and skin treatments with Thai mud.. Laprakë. US$1 = 103 lek (Feb 5. Joyel Spa Rr. Beautiful spa offering massages. go to the American Hospital or to the Civilian Hospital (northeast of the centre on Rr. tel. Call ahead. Krehëri i artë i Edlirës G-6. Various kinds of massage (therapeutic. www. QOpen 10:00 . I am. fax +355 4 235 76 34. .. American Hospital (Spitali Amerikan) Pranë Spitalit Ushtarak. Thu 09:00 . Sami Frashëri. www.abchealth. Sun. Q Open 08:00 .al. tel. tel.sharm-sallon. Sun. please How much does this cost? Numbers 0 zero 3 tre 6 gjashtë 9 nentë 50 pesëdhjetë Time Now Tani Today Sot Yesterday Dje c as in pizza dh as in that ë as in term i as in machine II as in still q as show rr is a trilled r Po Jo Mirë Ju lutem Faleminderit Më vjen keq! Mirëmëngjes Mirdita ç’kemi Natën e mirë Punë e mbarë! Gëzuar! Gjithë të mirat! Më falni! Si jeni? Kur? Ku? Kush? Pse? Çfarë? Kam.. Nd.22:00. Rr.hygeia.com Tirana In Your Pocket .. Greek and Slavic. hydrotherapy. +355 68 606 87 77.5-1. Triss.com.56 DIRECTORY Language Albanian is an Indo-European language with a 36-letter alphabet. For emergencies. Perlat Rexhepi. Tirana. facials. physiotherapy. +355 4 239 00 00/+355 4 232 30 00 (emergencies).. +355 4 235 75 35. Closed Sat. Unazë. and many words on loan from Turkish.. +355 4 223 39 50.61 H4. Telephone: +355 4 2390 000. info@spitaliamerikan. www.18:00. Metropol Center.UK .Gjermania Nuk kuptoj Nuk flas shqip Një biletë. Sun. like the country itself it is one of a kind. com.com.. e Elbasanit. info@hygeia. Pall 2.. Pronunciation a as in father ç as in church e as in set gj as in dodge j as in year nj as in union r as in rope x as in judge Niceties & Necessities Yes No Good Please Thank you Sorry! Good morning Good day Hello Good night Good luck with your work! Cheers! All the best! Excuse me! How are you? Practicalities When? Where? Who? Why? What? I have. +355 4 234 79 79.22:00.500 lek per hour. Christian. foot.14:00..com.al Km 01 of the secondary road of Tirana-Durrës Highway. tel. spitaliamerikan.al. Irfan Tomini Nr. info@velurspa.19:00.21:00. Rr. Dibrës). tel. +355 4 223 27 99. QOpen 08:00 . Wang Yan Massage (Dragoi i Zjarrtë) I . Fushë-Mëzez..17:00. body and facial treatments. What’s your name? My name is. +355 4 241 58 70. Shk 9. opened in 2010. ju lutem Sa kushton? 2 dy 5 pesë 8 tetë 20 njëzet 1000 njëmijë Genci C-5. 16:00 .20:00. DSF Medical Centre Rr.. Men’s hairdresser. org. Jam.. Opposite the Calvin club. English is catching on fast... On the ringroad near the eastern end of Rruga Qemal Stafa.velurspa. Kashar Commune.com. Closed Sat.hygeia.Germany I don’t understand I don’t speak Albanian A ticket. +355 4 223 1 një 4 katër 7 shtatë 10 dhjetë 100 njëqind www. +355 4 222 25 50/+355 69 203 29 00.. There’s a hamam (Turkish bath) and you can undergo massage... Klinika Irma Rr. Closed Mon. klinikairma@gmail.3. tel.joyelspa. tel. Albania’s first large private hospital.profits go to a charity improving the lives of prisoners. manicures and more.gr ABC Clinic D-5. 2011) tirana..Amerika . www. French and Italian. Haircuts (men Monday only). Closed Sun.blastcom.Anglia . A smart ‘Spa & Relax’ centre on the lower floor of the Metropol building. healthcenter@abchealth. Closed Sun... Rr. facials. HEALTH The biggest ever investment for health care in Albania Hospitals & Clinics Clinics do not usually take patients outside office hours. Ap 70... www. Pall. QOpen 11:00 . tel.org. 41 05/+355 68 260 04 05. QOpen 09:00 . Si quheni? Quhem. Hygeia Hospital Tirana-Durrës highway. English-speaking clinic. Bardhyl 20. HYGEIA means.21:00. Women’s hairdresser. km1. tel. A new and modern hospital along the Durrës highway. Closed Mon. I’m from. Emergency: +355 4 2323 000 Fax: +355 4 2388 996 Later Më vonë Tomorrow Nesër €1 = 140 lek. as well as acupuncture and herb treatments. yoga and more.. £1 = 166 lek. www. keep-fit) from 2. Rr. A hairdresser with a difference .com... . tel. QOpen 09:00 . info@ joyelspa.. An increasing number of Albanians speaks a foreign language: Italian is extremely widespread (thanks to satellite dishes and emigration).com. manicure/pedicure.QOpen 09:00 .USA .13:00.. Rr. QOpen 09:00 .20:00.. Petro Nini Luarasi. Doctors speak English. QOpen 09:00 . In a secondfloor apartment. Tue. Qemal Stafa 260. herbs and even chocolate. Une jam nga. Sallon Sharm Rr... com. +355 4 224 30 00/+355 4 224 28 80. Velur Spa G-3. make-up. tel. There are distant links with Romanian. www.inyourpocket.

UNFPA (United Nations Fund for Population) Rr.lincolnalbania. +355 4 223 46 21/+355 4 223 42 23. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit.Komuna Parisit.com. Closed Sat. Shk 3.com. Dibrës 159. UNDP (United Nations Development Program) Rr. QOpen 8:30 .20:00. 17th floor.soros. +355 4 223 61 41/+355 4 223 46 60. +355 4 223 73 79. Rr. Marie Stop es Clinic Rr. fax +355 4 223 07 52. tel. 16:00-19:00.al. tel.org. A network of ecology groups across Albania. Tre Vellezërit Kondi. Closed Sun.org.al. +355 4 236 52 39. fax +355 4 223 58 56.imf. Durrësit. Kalo & Associates E-3. tel. Rr. tel. delegation-albania@ ec. +355 4 237 17 25/+355 69 20 61 677./f a x +35 5 4 2 2 4 10 1 8 . tel. fax +355 4 225 02 20. info@un. com. +355 4 223 33 08.de. +355 4 2236 44 84. OSCE (Organisation for Security and Cooperation in Europe) Sheshi Italia.1 8: 0 0. QOpen 09:00 . Skënderbeg 21/1.com.inyourpocket. www.17:00.org. fax +355 4 223 22 83.com. Sun. www. Qemal Stafa 184.sigma-al. www.e Dibrës. H.org. Closed Sat.13:00. IOM (International Office for Migration) H-4.europa.18:00.al.14:00.5. Zog I. Rr. info@sigal. iomtirana@iom. 10.20:00. Transparency International Bul.al.17:00.sigal.06:30. Sun. Rr.c o m . IMF Resident Mission in albania (International Monetary Fund) Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit. info@mistedu. tel. usaid. +355 4 223 35 32. qsiweb. info@ sigma-al.al. +355 4 227 16 29. www.al. com. +355 4 223 08 80. www. Sun. Fa m i l y pla n ni n g cli ni c provi di n g sa fe. tel. Brigada VIII. Albanian lessons for beginners to advanced students.org/alb. tel. +355 4 225 10 50/+355 68 206 20 10. tel. balkans@snvworld.soros. tel. QOpen 8:00 . Ap 4. www. tel.com.16:00. www. QOpen 08:00 . ekolevizja. fax +355 4 225 17 92. Sheraton Hotel. info@osfa. c ompreh e nsi ve re pro d u c ti ve h eal th care a n d e d u cati on i n a c ou n tr y wh ere contra c epti on an d a b or ti on were ill e gal u ntil 1991. Spanish and computer courses. alickola@ ebrd. 91.org. Closed Sat. Soros Foundation (NOSA) Rr. tel.al. office@who-albania. tel.al. www. info@tia.org. tel.16:00. European Union Delegation ABA BRr. fax +355 4 222 95 11. Lawyers & Consultants Boga & Associates Rr. fax +355 4 222 84 92. www. fax +355 4 237 48 04. Deloitte F-5. Sun.4. berberi@unhcr.osce. com.org.2.com. www. klinikaorthodhokse@yahoo.europa. SNV (Dutch Projects Office) Rr. poliambulanca@fzkm. QOpen 09:00 . Sigma Rr.al.com. Closed Sat. tel.org.30 .17:00. ilc@primo. +355 4 222 83 20. Skënderbej. kontakt@interalbanian. +355 4 225 58 00. German. GTZ (German Projects Office) Rr.1 2: 0 0. +355 4 225 82 54.al.int/albania.ecole-vhugo. com. info@bogalaw.unizkm. www. fax +355 4 222 47 27. QOpen 08:30 . Tirana International School (TIS) Rr.gov. fax +355 4 226 61 62.Themistokli Gërmenji.un.deloitte. Lincoln Center H-4. www. unhcr.unfpa. UNICEF (United Nations Children’s Fund) Rr.snvworld. alzhja@ deloittece.gtz. +355 4 226 74 57. +355 4 222 95 78/+355 4 225 51 71. 223 59 96. +355 4 Tirana In Your Pocket tirana.org. fax +355 4 224 37 75. Gjergj Fishta. Nr.19:00.com. Qendra e Businessit G-KAM. www. +355 4 225 01 06. www. QOpen 08:00 . fax +355 4 223 11 25.unicef.ebrd.17:30.org/tirana. Closed Sat. tirana@qsi. fax +355 4 223 41 80. Murat Toptani. +355 4 223 28 98. Twin Tower 1. Sun. tel.. al. fax +355 4 225 78 35. Closed Sun.undp. and two other outlets. www. Elbasanit 103. www. www. Zayed Business Center. Luigj Gurakuqi Nd.eu.org. QOpen 08:00 . Sat 08:00 . fax +355 4 225 58 01. Kati 3.com.ec.com. Eurocol Center.org. fax +355 4 223 05 80. Kavajës.com. tirana@unicef. inf o@ ecole-vhugo. Closed Sat. C l os e d S u n. info@lincoln. QOpen 08:30 .mistedu. +355 4 240 07 21.org. Godina Volkswagen. +355 4 222 39 06. Qemal Stafa 120/1. Rr. Abdi Toptani. QOpen 08. No.delalb. Papa Gjon Pali II (ABA Bussines Center) kati 6. tel. www. Tef ta Ta shko Koço 10. www. +355 4 228 04 00. tel. +355 4 223 04 14.int. tel. tel.com/al./fax +355 4 223 48 51.org/albania. www. Tre Vellezërit Kondi. registry@unfpa.4. rr-alb@imf. Closed Sun. 1.net. QOpen 08:30 . Insurance companies Insig Rr. al. Kompleksi Green Park. Vila nr 3.org.org. tel. w w w. tel. Albanian for foreigners as well as English. tel. +355 4 227 79 20. www. QOpen 09:00 . +355 4 225 78 38. QOpen 09:00 . ABBA Business Center.14:00. Kavajës 120.com.58 DIRECTORY Luigi Monti Clinic E-3.org. Njësia Bashkiake 2.com. +355 4 225 68 12. Sun. Pallatet Lura k.com . EBRD (European Bank for Reconstruction and Development) Rr.interalbanian. POB 1714. Inside Enver Hoxha’s old villa. InterAlbanian I-3. ekolevizja@yahoo. tel. WHO (World Health Organisation) Rr. gtz-albanien@gtz.o r g . UNHCR (United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees) Rr. Closed Sat. Memorial International School Rr. tel.al. Orthodox Clinic Rr. Ekolëvizja Rr. USAID (United States Aid) Rr. Sat 09:00 . Rr. tel. Sun. fax +355 4 224 86 84. International schools Ecole Viktor Hygo Rr.20:00. Sat 08:30 . Sulejman Delvina. www. Papa Gjon Pali II. bogalaw. org. International organisations Albania’s non-governmental and international organisations. +355 4 236 09 25/+355 4 238 22 10. fax +355 4 225 10 55.insig.12:00. Language courses International Language Centre D-5. fax +355 4 228 04 01. m stop e s@icc a l . pm-al@osce. com. marrja@insig.al.org.com. QOpen 08:00 . www. Donika Kastrioti 1/1. Abdyl Frashëri. www. tel. fax +355 4 225 82 53.de. Closed Sun. Part of the Catholic Diagnostic Center. tel. POB 1017.20:00. Pall.iom. +355 4 227 33 35. m a r i e s t o p e s a l b a n i a . www. info@kalo-attorneys. tel. Sigal Uniqa Group Austria Blv. fax +355 4 227 79 90. QOp e n 08: 0 0 . fax +355 4 223 22 22.org. Sat 08: 0 0 . www. tel. fax +355 4 240 07 25. +355 4 224 72 85. tel.17:00.org. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit.eu. www. Suite 5-4.tia. QOpen 08:00 .kalo-attorneys.al. Torre Drini k. Donika Kastrioti 4. www.com. Rr.

Zog I.al.minfin.al. 16.al. 3. Sun.gov. tel. +355 4 225 07 11. fax +355 4 223 20 02. fax +355 4 225 62 67. elda.mkrs.gov.gov. 18:00-19:00. Pll.:+355 (0) 69 40 45 139 / (0) 68 40 45 139 / (0) 67 20 45 139 e-mail: info@abcom. al.moveo neinc.bksh.Social Affairs and Equal Opportunities Rr. Abdi Toptani. Tirana Times tel.topciu@tbi-al. www. tel. 1/1 Media Albanian Daily News Rr.al.al The new Point of Sales in Tirana: Address: Rr.gov. Also offers an online daily news subscription.gov. +355 4 222 66 01. German. fax +355 4 237 61 92. Movals for companies and individuals. +355 4 225 65 61.gov. Brigada 8.gov. Sheshi Nënë Tereza.mfa. as well as tailor-made relocation.mod.abcom. A weekly newspaper in rather dodgy English with national and international news.kalaja@ mie. Sat.gov. Durrësit 23. Prime Minister’s Office Blv. Rr. French.gov. Pall. Youth and Sports Rr. Sat 08:00 .gov.tirana. mpazaj@moe. www. 1. tirana. tel.gov./fax +355 4 222 89 62. Ministry of Foreign Affairs Blv. +355 4 222 25 08. TBI Law Firm D-4.com.gov. 3 sevices in 1 cable Television Telephony Moval companies Move One Relocations D-5. Durrësit 27. Dëshmorët e Kombit 1.al. Commerce and Energy Blv. nildakajo@yahoo. www. Ap. tel. tel. fax +355 4 222 83 25.al. +355 4 222 63 07.al. Rr./fax +355 4 222 65 51. tel. Dëshmorët e Kombit 1. Shk.brendshme@moi. Sheshi Skenderbeg (National Library). ministri@justice. www. Kompleksi “Green Park”. Ministry of Economy.: “Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit”. Agim Robo H-4. Dëshmorët e Kombit 4.60 DIRECTORY Ministries Ministry of Agriculture. www. 440. +355 4 224 88 40. Bajram Curri 1.al.al. kabineti@moh.al. tel. "Muhamet Gjollesha". Zogu I.it. tel. +355 4 227 42 03.gov. tel. Closed Sat.gov. QOpen 08:00 . www. 1. www. www. Dëshmorët e Kombit 2. Blv.al. Ministry of Public Works. No.al. tel.tiranatimes.mpptt. Ministry of Justice Blv.rustemi@mpptt. Kavajës 53.gov. tel. Twin Tower 1. mashadmin@mash. tel. A daily Englishlanguage newspaper with a website for subscribers.com. tel.inyourpocket. tel. +355 4 226 94 54.gov.al.com.tbi-al. albania@moveoneinc. +355 4 222 86 45.gov. Sun 08:00 .gov.al.al. QOpen 08:00 .com . tel.al. National Library E-4.14:00. home search and settling-in services. Kati I.com. Torre Drini. www. tel. al. +355 4 227 45 24. Blv. Pallati Scutari Construction Address: Rr.moh. tel. fax +355 4 223 45 60.al. Ministry of Finance Blv. ministria. Sun.mbumk. Palace of Culture.gov. Ministry of Environment Rr. fax +355 4 236 20 84.20:00.al. Veve Business Center. +355 4 227 06 30. kabineti@mete. Ap. QOpen 08:30 .al. KPMG H-4. fax +3554 223 48 18. Gjon Pali II. Shk 2. Municipality of Tirana Blv. Pll. ketrin. fax +355 4 222 84 94.justice.gov. tel.com. Tirana In Your Pocket Notaries These offices provide notary work and legal assistance. +355 4 225 10 08. www. +355 4 225 93 88. info@km.gov.gov. fax +355 4 222 83 40. Gjergj Fishta 6.com.mash. info@mfa./fax +355 4 225 81 03.kpmg. www. Closed Sun.com. www. Ministry of Integration I-5. gov. For sale in hotels and at newsstands for 350 lek. ext. www. Kati II. features and events.al. fax +355 4 227 06 27. fax +355 4 227 12 59.albaniannews. informacion@mtkrs./ fax +355 4 224 71 55. +355 4 222 76 17.gov. Dervish Hima.19:00.al. www. University Library (Biblioteka Universitare) I-4. Dëshmorët e Kombit. +355 4 222 79 37. Libraries American Corner E-4. Ismail Qemali 27/1. e Kavajës.al. www.13:00.mie. agimrobo@hotmail.mete. www. www. Ministry of Interior Affairs Sheshi Skënderbej 3. A library with American books and magazines. Culture.al.al. Ministry of Tourism. Sheshi Skënderbej. +355 4 236 40 90.al. Transport and Telecomunication Sheshi Skënderbej 5.al. QOpen 08:00 .al. Rr. tel.com. Closed Sat.al. tel. Rr.17:30. Address: Rr. Ministry of Education and Science Rr.it. www.al.keshilliministrave. Italian. info@mbumk. tel.al website: www. tel. 3. nr. QOpen 08:30 14:00.moe.gov. kontakt@mpcs.al. tirana@ tonucci. Greek and Turkish. aloffice@kpmg.gov. 24 Address: Rr.: +355 (4) 4500 139 / Fax: +355 (4) 4500 200 Mob. tel. www. Tirana. infoadn@ albnet. Kulla 2. Tekno-Projekt. Albania Tel. "Gogo Nushi". Ministry of Defence Blv.tonucci.com.com. generalsecretary@minfin. Sun. Ministry of Labor. info@tirana. +355 4 238 08 33. Ministry of Health Blv./fax +355 4 222 38 43.gov. mpcs. al.gov. fax +355 4 224 08 88.gov.moi. Shk. 60. www. www. fax +355 4 225 07 13. tel.gov. www. +355 4 26 99 55. jeta. +355 4 225 61 12.gov. +355 4 236 46 84. +355 4 222 66 29/+355 4 225 30 53. www.al. "Mihal Duri". Food and Consumer Protection Sheshi Skënderbej 2. Closed Sat.13:00. Some also do written translations into and from English. Dëshmorët e Kombit. Ap 3/2. kontakt@ mod. tel. fax +355 4 222 84 30. Tonucci & Partners H-4. fax +355 4 223 55 34.

19:00. Brigada VIII 8/1. Tirane. +355 4 224 62 53. +355 68 328 66 66. www. Serbian. 3. QOpen 07:00 . +355 4 223 31 18. fmetaj2005@yahoo. Rr. Q Open 09:00-14:00. majlinda06@yahoo.com. loungebar042@gmail.com. tel. A hotel pool available for all to use. Sun 09:00 . Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Modern pharmacy.greenhours. 30/ Rr. Farmatech D-5. fax +355 4 225 47 60. Park Venue Mullet. www. +355 4 225 12 00/+355 69 209 55 71. tel.02:00. 7. Blv. QOpen 09:00 . albania@colliers. www. Slovenian. fotorreli@albmail.otticabruna. +355 4 222 67 59. Luigj Gurakuqi 8.13:00. just to the west of the park. inf93@abaniaonline. Tirana-Elbasan road km 15. +355 4 222 22 41.org. info@tirana. Liqeni Artificial.com. reale@icc.com. +355 4 226 63 94. Call ahead for reservations.colliers. tel. tel. info@albaniapropertygroup.13:00/16:00. e Durrësit. Optika Bruna G-4. Sky Tower. Aquadrom Complex. On duty 24hrs. Translations Fadil Metaj D-3. Closed Sun. tel. QOpen 08:00 . +355 4 223 04 48. 4.net. www. Swimming pools Aquadrom K-3. QOpen 24 hours opened. tel. P./fax +355 4 223 28 44. Dervish Hima. Flats. info@balkimo. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit. Majlinda Lleshi Rr. www. QOpen 24hrs. Alb Property Rr. Open May-Oct Admission 300-400 lek. Balkimo Sheshi Italia.com. +355 4 225 38 83. 79. QOpen 08:00 . +355 4 222 79 65/ 222 23 29/+355 68 20 29 675./fax +355 4 227 17 46. 16:00-20:00. 66. tel.Pallatet Agimi. Opticians Italoptike D-5. info@century21albania.balkimo. Ap. 1. Leskova building. tel. West of the Grand Park are these four outdoor swimming pools.62 DIRECTORY Photography A. tel.Mine Peza Nr 1. Rudi Farma D-4. Real Estate Imobiliary Rr. Kavajës. tel. www. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit.20:00. Pall. Farmaci Regi dhe Bime Mjeksore H-4.com Tirana In Your Pocket .net. Zogu I. Blv. Rr. Shk.com. Shk. 3.it. tel. Closed Sun. fatimemetaj@yahoo. info@ottical. offices for sale and for rent. tel.com. Ap 24.22:00. Chateau Linza Rr. tel. Shk. Alma Rr. +355 4 222 11 87.alb-property.com. QOpen 08:00 . Blerina Avrazi Rr. www. Rr. Ital Kumi H-4. Pall. Pallatet 1Maji. suite 141. Open 09:00-13:00.inyourpocket. +355 4 240 04 70. rogner. Bulgarian and Russian. Pall. Green Hours Rr. Blv. Macedonian. www. Tennis courts Grand Park Tennis Courts K-3. QOpen 08:00 . Specialises in building plots and agricultural land. Luarasi 2a. Colliers G/H-4. Rr. Rr. tel.com. 1. Shk. +355 4 225 00 58/+355 69 209 80 98. QOpen 08:30 . property management and more. fax +355 4 480 51 99.net. Zogu I. fax +355 4 240 04 71. houses. +355 4 222 29 85. Pharmacies Farmacia 7-17 C-4. +355 4 223 50 35. Hotel pool open for visitors. Rogner Europapark Courts H-5. tel. 3/1. Translates English to/from Albanian. Century 21 Albania Rr. Croatian. +355 4 224 89 51./fax +355 4 224 95 22. tel. Bajram Curri. tel.al. Q Admission 500 lek. tel. Porcelanit. fax +355 4 225 78 29. info@farmatech. Sheraton Hotel. Bajram Curri.com. tel. Barrikadave. Kavajës 207.com. tel. albaniapropertygroup.20:00.com.com. Next to the Tirana Bank.20:00. Brigada VIII.century21albania.com.com. Blv.204. English spoken.com. info@greenhours. Closed Sun. +355 69 203 00 03. QOpen 09:00 . Next to the Aquadrom complex. West of the park.com. tel. +355 4 223 65 84. tel.com. Dibrës 271.com. Ottical E-3.net. Abdi Kazani. vqarri@yahoo. Digital developing too. Blv. The non-stop city centre pharmacy. Durrësit 118. Closed Sun. Blv.com. Real estate Albania Property Group Rr. Rr. tirana. tel. +355 4 225 62 57. INF93 Rr. Zogu I. Sulejman Delvina. +355 4 223 98 72.com. Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit . Islam Alla. Fatime Metaj D-3.chateaulinzahotel. Linza. www.it. +355 4 225 05 99. Closed Sun. www.16:00.Rreli C-4. tel. +355 4 224 68 98/+355 69 202 03 60.20:00. 17:00-21:30. office@alma-realestate.inf-93. tel. blerina_avrazi@ yahoo. Rr. Rr. 17:00-20:00. Durresit. Kati 1. Closed Sun. Dhimitra Qarri G-3. info@alb-property. tel. Closed Sun.com. alma-realestate. pranë qendrës Zayed. A chain of modern photo labs. Qesarakë.eu./fax +355 4 224 63 61. Ap.

C-3/4 Haxhi Sina C-6 Him Kolli F-3 Hoxhe Vokrri D-6 Hoxha Tahsim E/D-6 Ibrahim Dervishi I-1 Isa Boletini C/D-5 Islam Alla E/F/G-3 Ismail Qemali H-3/4/5 Jani Vreto E-5/6 Jeronim de Rada F-5 Jordan Misja A/B/C-3 Jul Varibova G-5 Justin Gadari E/F-2 Jusuf Vrioni I-2 K. E-1. I-6 Emin Duraku I-2. Shuteriqi J-1/2 Dibrës C/D-5. Bush F-5 Prokop Myzeqari D-3 Punëtorët e Rilindjes see Presidenti GWB Qemal Guranjaku H-6 Qemal Stafa E-5. H-2 Murat Toptani F-4/5 Musa Agolli B-5 Mustafa Lleshi G-6 Mustafa Matohiti G/H-5 Myrtezim Këlliçi E/F-5 Myslym Shyri G-2/3. I-1/2 Xhezmi Delli E-2 Xhorxhi Martini E/F-5 Ymer Kurti I/J-3 Zenel Baboçi D-5 . H-5/6. G-1/2. Gjergj FishtaH-1 to G-4 Blv. Bajram CurriH-1 to G-6 Blv. Zogu I C/D/E-4 Bogdani E-3 Brigada VIII H-3/4 Çamëria F-3/4 Çerçiz Topulli C-4. J-2/3 Hajdar Hidi E/F-3 Haki Mborja J-1 Halim Xhelo E-2 Haxhi Hysen Dalliu D-3. H-3 Fadil Rada I-2. E-5 Abdi Toptani F-4/5 Abdulla Keta D-5 Abdyl Frashëri I-3/4/5 Adem Kruja G-2 Ali Pashe Gucia C-5/6. D-2/3. D-6 Andon Zako Çajupi H-3 Asim Vokshi D-3/4 Asim Zeneli H-5/6 Bardhok Biba D-4 Barrikadave B/C-4. E-4 Tafaj C-5/6 Tefta Tashko Koço E-6 Thanas Ziko B-5/6. D-5 Ded Gjo Luli E-4 Dervish Hatixhe D/C-4 Dervish Hima I-5/6 Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit G/H/I/J-4 Dhimitër S. B5/6 Don Bosko B/C-2 Donika Kastrioti G/H-4 Dora D’Istria K/J-4 Durrësit D-2/3. K-2 Luigj Gurakuqi E-4/5 Mahmut Fortuzi B/C-4 Maliq Muço D-4 Margarita Tutulani J-3/4 Medar Shtylla I/J/K-2 Mehmet Brocaj D-3 Mihal Duri E-3 Mihal Grameno G-6 Milto Tutulani I/J-3 Mine Peza C-2. J-4 Lidhja Prizrenit I/J-4 Liman Kaba J-2/3. Zhan D’Ark G-5 to E-6 Blv. I-2 Kont Urani E-3 Kristaq Mema D-2/3 Lek Dukagjini I-5. E-3 Muhamet Gjollesha D-1/2. H-4 Papa Kristo Negovani C-4 Perlat Rexhepi C-4 Petro Korçari I-1 Petro Nini Luarasi F-6 Pjetër Bogdani H-3/4 Pjetër Budi H-6 Prek Bibë Doda H-2 Presidenti George W. Karapici E-6 V. F-3/4 Naim Frashëri E/F-2 Nasi Pavllo H/I-6 Nikolla Lena F-2 Nikolla Tupe I-3/4.). D-5/6 Ramzan Farka B-6 Reshit Çollaku F-4 Reshit Petrela B/C-4 Robert Shvare I-1 Sami Frashëri G-3 to J-4 Saraçëve D-5 Sermedin Said Toptani F-4 Shaqir Ofshafi C-5/6 Sheh Ahmet Pazari I-6 Shenasi Dishnica D/E-5 Sheshi 21 Dhjetori F-1 Sheshi Avni Rustemi E-5 Shesi Fan Noli E-5 Sheshi Italia I-5 Sheshi Nënë Tereza I-5 Sheshi Skënderbeg E/F-4 Sheshi Zogu i Zi C/D-2 Shyqyr Bërxolli E/F-3 Shyqyr Ishmi F-6 Siri Kodra B-4 Skënder Kosturi B/C-4 Skënderbeg D/E/F-2 Stavro Vinjau H/I-6 Sulejman Delvina H-2. Luarasi C-4/5.Street register All Tirana streets below are prefexed ‘Rruga’ (Rr. H-3 Faik Konica I-6 Fatmir Haxhiu G-5 Frederik Shiroka F-1/2. Dëshmorët e Kombit F-4 to I-5 Blv. I-2/3 Sulejman Pasha D-3/4. E-2 Gjin Bue Shpata H/I-3 Gjin Kuqali I/J-3 Gjon Buzuku B/C-5 Gjon Muzaka E-2 Gjon Pali II G/H/I-5 Grigor Heba I-2. Shijaku B/C-4 Kajo Karafili E-3/4 Karl Gega B-4 Kavajës F-1/2/3. 4 Dëshmorët C-6 28 Nëntori F-4/5. C-6 Themistokli Gërmenji H-5/6 Thimi Mitko E-6 Unaza C-2/3/4 V. boulevards are listed as ‘Blv’. squares as ‘Sheshi’. D-4/5 Beqir Luga E-6 Besim Imami F-2/3 Bilal Konxholli C-5/6 Blv. E-3/4 Komuna e Parisit H-2/3. E-3/4 Edit Durham E-2 Elbasanit G-5. D-5 Vaso Pasha G/H/I/J-4 Vëllezërit Manastiri D-2 Viktor Eftimiu H-1. F-1.

net www. Paul 34 Central Market 34 Charl's Bistro 30 Chateau Linza 10 City 12 Clock Tower 36 Code 30 Coffee Store 29 Comfort 10 Converse 30 Dajti Ekspres Cable Car 39 Dajti Park 17 Da Shang Hai 20 Davidoff Club 30 Delice 24 Delikatesë 29 Diplomat 10 Diplomat Fashion 12 Doro City 12 Eder 15 Elysée 12 Emblema 18 Enoteca Joan 32 Epër7shme 29 Era 18 Et'hem Bey Mosque 37 Fan Noli Statue 38 Far East 20 Ferari 12 Fiore 24 Firenze 14 Flares 30 Folie 33 Fortress of Justinian 37 Freddy's Hostel 16 Friend's Book House 29 Galeria Shijaku 37 Grand 10 Grand Park 38 Green House 12. Sheraton Tirana &Towers. Tirana.albania-experience. 24 Gregory’s Coffee 29 Guva e Qetë 15 Haxhiu 15 Heart of Christ Church 34 Hostel Albania 16 Hotel Airport Tirana 16 House of the Dervish Khorosani 37 Iguana II 30 Iliria 14 Il Pomodoro Food Court 27 Imagine 33 Infinity 30 Irish Bar 33 Istanbul 27 Jumeirah 29 Juvenilja Castelo 26 Kalaja 15 Kalaja e Petrelës 18 King House 20 Kolonat 27 Kruja 14.com .inyourpocket.66 INDEX 30 Over 32 ABA Fifth 24 ABA Twentyfirst 22 Albaniantrip 16 Albanian Federation of Cooks 24 Al Brigantino 24 Alcora 32 Alehandro 32 Alfa Club 30 Amor 20 Apollonia 18 Arber 10 Archaeological Museum 35 Areela 15 Artist Lounge 29 Ballkoni Dajtit 22 Bantia 18 Bardhë e Zi 29 Belvedere 17 Bermon 12 Big Bite 27 Billionaire 20 Bogova 26 Bonaparte 32 Bon Bon 30 Botanical gardens 38 Briker 15 Brilant Antik 10 Bristol 12 Broadway 12 Bujtina Shqiptare 16 California 12 Calvin 33 Cameleon 30 Canon 30 Caramel Lounge 30 Carlsberg 18 Casa di Pasta 24 Cathedral of St. Albania City-centre graffitti Tirana In Your Pocket tirana. Chicken 27 Mrizi i Zanave 19 Mumja 33 Music Box 31 Napoli 24 National Art Gallery 35 National History Museum 35 Natural Science Museum 36 Nirvana 14 Nobel 14 Noel 31 Oda 19 Orthodox Cathedral 35 Orthodox Church 35 Otium 18 Palma 14 Panorama 17 Parlamenti 15 Pastarella 20 Pastiçeri International 29 Pasticeri Twin Towers 29 Patisserie Française 20 Pëllumbas Cave 39 Pension Andrea 16 Petrela Castle 39 Piazza 20 Pike Loti 15 Pirro 29 Pirro Mani 24 Pyramid 34 Queen Park 26 Quo Vadis 29 Radio 31 Raum 33 Regency Casino 33 Rei Jazz Club 33 Relax 29 Republika 16 Rinia Park 38 Rock 'n Roll 31 Rockwood 31 Rogner Europapark 10 Royal 22 Rozafa 26 Sarajet 19 Serenata 19 Serendipity 22 Shakesbeer 22 Shang Hai 20 Sharm Club 33 Shëngjin Church Mosaic Sheraton Tirana Hotel Sirius Skanderbeg Square Skanderbeg Statue Sky Club Sky Club Café Sky Hotel Sofra e Ariut Sofra Turke Spaghetti House & Fish Steakhouse Steelwings Stela Stephen Center B&B Stephen Center Café Stylus Club Marriott Tanners' Bridge Taverna Argjiro Teqeja Dervish Hatixhe Theranda Tiki Tirana Backpacker Hostel Tirana International Hotel & Conference Centre Tirana Rock Tomb of Kaplan Pasha Unit Bar Unknown Partisan Statue Venecia Venue Dance Club Venue Park Verzaci Viking Vila 3 Vila 12 Vila 31 Vila Aeroport Vila Ambasador Chocolat Vila Amsterdam Vila Belvedere Vila Logoreci Vila Metropolitan Vila Park Vila Tafaj Vila Toscana Vila Verde Vinum Viva Vogue Lounge Wine Shop Wine Spirit Xheko Imperial Xibraku Yamato Zanzibar Zeta Gallery Zoo 36 10 19 34 38 22 29 12 26 27 26 23 31 14 16 29 32 37 19 37 14 32 17 12 32 37 32 38 26 33 17 16 23 14 27 20 16 23 23 14 26 23 14 14 17 16 18 20 33 32 32 10 23 26 33 36 38 Albania Experience Tel +355 4 2 272 055 Fax +355 4 2 271 960 Mobile: 067 40 490 90 Email: alexperience@albaniaonline.al Address: Sheshi Italia. 39 La Cantinella 24 La Tavernetta 24 La Voglia 26 Linda Spahiu Costume Collection 35 Living Room 30 Lizard 31 Lollipop 33 London 20 Loro Borici 26 Lugano 14 Lulishte 1 Maji 20 Magic Blue 26 Martyrs' Cemetery 34 Meduza 31 Metropolitan 18 Mezuraj Museum 35 Milingona 16 Millennium 20 Mimi 20 Miniri 14 Mojo 29 Mondial 12 Monument for the Righteous Gentiles of Albania 38 Mother Teresa Statue 38 Mr.

Rr. Papa Gjon Pali ll. Papa Gjon Pali ll.ABA BUSINESS CENTER Coin Tirana Aba Business Center. Rr. Tiranë Aba Business Center. Tiranë .

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