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peryecr toaves oFeveu) snape.


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MADE By gexp There's an ideal loaf for

every occasion. Baguettes ctnd ciabatta are
companions to casua.l meals. Large, round
boules are perfect for toast and sandwiches.
Rol/s provide a diminutive option anytime.
MakingSourown bread bringsa particular
satisfaction,like that o{ crafting your own pottery or build-
ing your own house.A baker falls somewherebetween a the dough and then shaping it just so, the baker controls
sculptor and an architect,responsiblefor the outward form the ai.ri.ness
and chewinessof the resulting loaves.
of a ioaf as well as its internal structure. Bread is a living medium. Flour type, kitchen humidity,
Bread making is a dynamic art, bringing together ingre- and variations in oven temperature ail affect the outcome.
dients that react chemicaliy, and then harnessing the out- But a proper loaf doesn't require fancy equipment, only the
come to form a loa{with a crisp crust and a luxurious,chewy basic method presentedhere,which provides a foundation
crumb. The key processis moistening and working the floua and relieves the baker of having to consider the complex
which createsan elastienetwork of gluten.Yeastcells in the processesat play. More than just science,bread baking is
damp starterproducecarbon dioxide.The expandinggas an artisanal craft that anyone can learn with time and a
forms chambers as the supple dough rises,inflating it and littie patience.With practice, you might end up adapting
producing the airy springy bread we expect. By kneading the technique slightly to suit your preferences.Start by
mastering these simple steps and you'll find it easy-and
particularly satisfying-to achieve perfection.

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Tltis method works for French,
eiohaffo nnrl mt,lriarn;" 1.,,.h"
For e amnlore i no"-clienrs and in
strtr.tiors sco thc Ppnines secfzon.

1. Mix flour, a pinch of yeast, and

water to form a starter. Cover,
and let rest at cool room rempera-
ture until bubbling, 12 ro t5 hours.
2. Combine remaining flour, yeast.
enr] rnrrtor r^ritL ctrrror mrxtng
r* r" 'n_t' i- l a -q" lYi "n h t l r' ,rJ q r i n L . , J ^ , , - h f^.-"

Let rest for 20 minutes.

3. Turn dough onto an unfloured
.rr.{^.o S n r i nr rLr ^l] o
uPr c t ^ t i t L { i - - . o .J c d . . l tI
Jd L.

4. Gather dough, li.fting it above

the surface.Hold one end of dough
and cast the other end in front of
\/^rr nntn f l.,o '"{"^o
s. Prrll tl^eer,l'..'.. . hands
toward rzorr qtrctehinn ir nonrlrr

Then fold rho d.,,-h on ton nf

itqclf Rcnoat L.o".li.^. T i r t ^L d.J.Lt.


s r l e t c h ,a n d f o l d .T h e d o u g h w i l l
he sriekrr' t,qc r d.r,.h q.ranar t^

clean the surface as needed.

r ;-1.t1.' f'^"" fi-^o"c
"^"- 1 1 r I V s 1 o vn -. l1r.J, ri fI

rhcnlr,tol.r nanaccar\r

6. Continue to knead until smooth,

s u n n l p a n d e l c s t i eR t n t o m i n u t e s .
Form into a ball.
7. Place dough in a lightly oiled
bowl, cover, and let rise at cool
room temperature for 45 minutes.
8. Gently turn dough onto lightly
f l o u r e d s u r f a c e .D o n o t p u n c h
dough to deflate: it will deflate
srrf{ieientlv es vol Trrn Ir oLlt.

g. Fold the dough into thirds, as

you would a business letter, then
fold in hal{ crosswise. Return
to bowl, cover, and let rise at cool
r n n m t e m n p r a t r r r er : n r i Li t h a s
almost doubled, at least 75 minutes.
P go , u dn Lr rf icar nr Lr .r
u th. .^^l tLasm
r rni ^- uYc^ r*dr t, u
r ^r s

ensures a slow rise, which in turn

.'i-1.1" fl^.rar
" "i.Lo.
10. Divide dough into portions
(three if making baguettes:two if
making ciabatta, boules, or rolls).
Let rest, covered, for 2o minutes.
11.Gently spread each portion
uvu:r r
inrn r ronfrnalp that'q

chnrrt rn hrr A innlroq

tz. Fold dough into thirds again,

pressing the seams with your fin-
gers. (Folding gives the dough
internal structure, which ensures
it will rise upward, not outward.)
To shape into baguettes, boules,
rolls, or ciabatta, see instructlons
u *-:gg
^- f^ll^,^,i-- ^"^."
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a-/ : -'
ri ;,
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-- l l

T i } " fH L E S SC L A S S i C
The definittve French loaf, the
baguette is so common it is often
referred fo os pain ordinarre, or
"^riindf\' L,.-) "

L Working with one portion of

l^"^L o rimo /coa " Irr\zr [uar L\ ri rnroY
"t \rqs
Dough," page 106), fold it in half
lengthwise to form a tight, nar-
row log. Gently press edges with
lightly floured {ingertips ro seal.
2. Using your palms, roil the
dough on the work surface until
it's about 16 inches long, rolling
more firmly at the ends to create
^ t"^^"^.1 -II-^t

3. Place loaves,seam side down, on

a floured towel, folding the towel
between them to prevent the loaves
from sticking to one another. Let
rise at cool room temperature until
loaves have almost doubled,4o
to 50 minutes. Using the tip of a
1 ^ ^ ^ / ^ - a r o a u r Lu r dru^E /r, ,^ \ D^l l a s ht h e
lorrrE \ul

surface of each loaf a few times.

FRENCH BREAD Benedththe crisp,

brittle crust of a baguette is an airy
crumb and a rich, nutty flavor, mak-
ing it the perfect dccompaniment to
any meal-or, in the case of break-
fast, the perfeet foundation.

slta --
tllqu -:

! / " - F Ti D n r ! \ ! : r F n
The boule is one of Europe'sgreof
est and most tradi.tional forms
o{ bread. It is often made with rye
or other whole-grain flours but
aLsoworks well as a rusti.cwhite
made {rom French dough.

r. Working with one portion of

dough at a time (see "Making
D o u g h , " p a g e 1 0 6 ) ,r o l l u p d o u g h
tightly, starting at one short end.
Gather edges, and gently pull and
tuck them underneath the dough
to create a round shape.pinching
them to seal.
2. Place dough on the work surface.
Cup hands around dough, and
rotate it in circles until a smonth
taut ball forms.
3. Place dough, smooth side down,
in a colander lined with a gener-
ously floured towel. Let rise, cov
ered, at cooi room temperature
until it has almost doubled +o to
50 minutes. Using the tip of a lame
(or a razor blade), slash the sur-
face of each boule. forming an X.

M U L T I G R A I N B R E A DA T o b u s I
bread with a firm crust and a dense,
moist crumb, this loaf has a dis-
tinct rye flavor and is particularly
good when toosted.

lI:.-ili_.iT'. !:i
The French have no word fololl,
r o- .l rt t .i .i n < r o n r l a n
. - -f .h.a- -t e r m p e l i l
rain wAieA -eons "lirl1breod."

Indeed. fAese ore simply small,

,^,,-,1.s Ann,,ata<

t. Working with one portion of

.l^,r-h ^r a timc /ccc "Malrina

Dnrral^ " nene roA) fold it in half

lonnt].'^rico ln {arm ri^Lr ."'-
.^,^r l^^ Ganrl.r n.acc arl-oc.^,ith

l,olrtlv rlorred rinopnins ro seal.

TT s i r o a d o r r c l ^ s " r a n e . . r a c h e f
L < r i f pc r r t i r t o e i o h f n i e c e s .
? G e t l - r o r o- .-Jr^- o- " ^- f- o_ ^* .-1. .t p t e c e .

rrd cerrlv n':'l crd trrckthem un-

de.rperh do rah to.rpere a round
shane r'nchi-o ro seal.P]ace
do"nh or s ''fa"o f ,rn one hand
^ .J^U, ,u^lJr ,U.u. U
d t ^u, ,g^ltr^,a
^ ^l ltu l. U
^ rl ^a t e l i 1 n

circles to form a smooth, taut roli.

3. Let rise, covered, at cool room
i e - r ' r n e . a l - l r cl t r t i ' : l h a s a l m o s r

doubled, about 30 minutes. Use

tho tin of a lamc lnr ^ .^"^. hl^.lo\

to slash the surface of each roll.

F R E N c H B R E A DD i m i n u t i v e r o l l s
made from French dough convey a
more formal air than a baguette,
mdking them ideal for entertaining.
Any that remain make a delicious
breakfast the next ddy, sldthered with
butter and drizzled with honey.

:1. t','._ l:

The French have no word for roll,
,.1,';-^ ;ncran) an tha tarm aarit

n a ; n w h i c h m e o n s" l i r t l e b r e a d . "
I n d e e d . r A e s eo r e s i m p l y s m o l l .
,^,'-5.'l hnat'atta<

.t .. r. Working with one portion of

.# ..;
tr' rlnrrnlr et e lima /<ee "M"Lir-

Dorrch " nace ro6) fold it in half

lannthr^rica r^ f^.- ^ riaht ner-

'' ^" ."^' '" Yl ^' -' -'o"" o.l^o",ntiiL

l i n 1 r t l . -f l n r - p d f i n n e r i : n s t o s e a l .
Iisi-o a d.r:oh scraner or a chef's
l r r i f e e r r -i r t n e i e h t n i c 6 6 g .
2 G r t h p r o_.^] a- o_ "- ^- f- o- _^ "- 1
-l plece.
rrd oentlv null and trrckthem un-
d e . r e a t l - d o r : c r hr o c r e a r e a r o u n d -o soal.Place
r ^ . . * L u^r -l ^D u. r.r-a fL ^c .^ ^ ^u u. P - o n e h a n d

"'^,.'1 uuu9rr,
"-'l "^-1re ir in
circles to form a smooth, taut roll.
3. Let rise, covered, at cool room
l c m n c r A t r r r er r r i ' l i t h a s a i m o s t
doubled, about 30 minutes. Use
-1"^ .i^ ^f .or^t
L r r c L r P u i o" lr .o- l-r i c /^"
\vi " LoL!-
o hJ l-^a. vl oL \, )

to slash the surface of each roll.

F R E N c H B R E A DD i m i n u t i v e r o l l s
made from French dough convey a
more formal air than a baguette,
making them ideal for entertaining.
Any that remain make a delicious
breakfast the next day, slatheredwith
butter and drizzled with honey.
-* 5'
r a -- s

€ryt i.:"'$

Ciabatta comes fram the ltalian
word {or "slipper," owing to its
flat, elongated form and sltght
sag in the middle. The name per.
tatns not just to the shape,but to
the particular dough.

1. Place each portion of dough

(see "Making Dough," page ro6)
on a lightly floured towel, seam
side down. Let rise at cool room
temperature until it has almost
doubled,40 to 50 minutes.
2. Transfer dough to a parchment-
lined baking sheet. Working with J

one portion of dough at a time,

gently stretch it to a 4-by-to-inch
rectangle. Dimple entire surface
with lightly floured fingers.
3. Repeat stretching and dim-
pling with the remaining dough.
Bake immediately.

cIABATTA Olive oil gives this loa.f

its pleasant chewiness-plus a lon-
ger shelf life than most home-baked
breads. Slice if into thin strips fo
serve ot the table, or eut it in ha.If
Iengthwise for sandwiches,


K U S T E R - P R O K E LALN, D P A M E L Ai / O R R I S