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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Summer 2019


summer #bolimepipi
Beaches, Festivals
& Activities

N°16 - complimentary copy


Foreword 4 Health Tourism 32

A zesty editorial to unfold Marvie Hotel & Health

Top Summer Events 5 Split Surroundings 34

A pick ’n’ list to brighten your stay The top getaways

My Life In Art 9 Makarska Riviera 47

An interview with Dina Jakšić Pavasović All in a day

Care Less This Summer #BolimePIPI 10 Top Places To Shop 53

Priceless places and buys
Beaches, festivals & activities

Restaurants 13 Arrival & Getting Around 58

SOS! Have no fear, SIYP is here
We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat
Split Basics
Coffee & Cakes 22 Keepn it real 61
“How’s that sweet tooth?”
Nightlife 24 City map 62-64
Are you ready to party? City centre map 65
County map 66
Sightseeing 27
Discover what we ‘ve uncovered

Cetina River, Photo by Milan Šabić, Sinj Tourist Board Archives

Much of inland Dalmatia is covered by the label Dalmatian Zagora (Dalmatinska Zagora); Zagora literally means ‘behind the hills’, a reference to
the mountains that run along a good deal of the coast. See page 34. Summer 2019 5
With thousands of locals and visitors funneled daily through
the narrow alleys that make up its historic core, Split in sum-
mertime is one of those bustling, sweaty, vibrant Mediter-
ranean cities that becomes more addictive the longer you
stay. Indeed its take-off as a tourist destination has been so
rapid that many are beginning to question whether Split Publisher
still is the grittily authentic Dalmatian port it used to be. Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
Such fears are a little bit on the snobbish side: Split peo- ISSN 1846-856X
ple rather like foreign visitors, and the city is in any case
Company Office & Accounts
big enough to absorb the commercial aspects of tourism
Višnja Arambašić
without losing too much of its gruff personality. Squeezed Split In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia
between a pungent fish market at one end and a large, Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28
boisterous fruit-and-veg market at the other, Split’s ancient,
centre is not in any immediate danger of becoming a tour- Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
ist-only zone. Locals are constantly rushing through it with Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja
their shopping bags, brushing past the fork lift-style trucks Editorial
that deliver supplies to the shops and boutiques squeezed Editor Višnja Arambašić
into its tight alleys. The palm-splashed seafront Riva is the Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan
city’s idea of a huge municipal open-air living room-cum- Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac, Siniša Pavić
office space, filled with locals exchanging gossip, making Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
calls, doing business while sitting at a café table, or simply Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
checking out what everybody else is wearing. Design Bojan - Haron Markičević
So if there’s one city in Europe where you can simply switch Photography Split In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated
off and go with the flow, it’s Split. Cover ©, Pakleni Islands off Hvar, pristine
beach on remote island, crystal clear water with yachts, aerial
COver story Maps Events Restaurants
Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević
Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić
Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing
Shopping Hotels

Pakleni islands are in the immediate Split

vicinity of Hvar city. Due to its Copyright notice
Summer 2019

distinctive vegetation, these islands CARE LESS thiS Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps
SummER #boLimEpipi copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publica-
landscapes are protected. The Beaches, Festivals
& Activities tion may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the
Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher
their interesting name from a little and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under
known fact...tar and resin used for license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
coating the bottoms of boats used tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Split (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not respon-
sible for any information which might change after publication.
to be cooked here. N°16 - complimentary copy

Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

6 Split In Your Pocket

Photo by Zoran Baković, KUD Jedinstvo Archives

Top Summer
Top Summer Events
01.05 - 01.10 » Šotobraco Splitom 15.06 - 01.10 » The Night of
For a true cultural experience, every Thursday evening, a Croatian Folklore
group of acclaimed dancers from the ‘Jedinstvo’ Folk En- Ever since 2006, 45 folk ensemble performers accompa-
semble present famous old dances and choreographies nied by a mandolin orchestra perform a 90 minute set
from the Split area as accompanied by a walking mandolin which takes place on the central stage of the main Riva.
orchestra. See the performers wear classical folk costumes The program is composed of 9 dance choreographies
considered priceless by many. The ensemble starts off a from all parts of Croatia. Dances are performed in authen-
the back entry of the Croatian National Theater and in an tic folk costumes and for each of them performers change
almost procession like fashion moves to 5 different loca- their costumes as a contribution to an unforgettable ex-
tions through the night bringing much joy to all. Qwww. perience.QI‑3, Riva, Obala hrvatskog narodnog prepo- roda,

17.05 - 27.09 » Days of Diocletian 28.06 - 08.09 » Revija Urbane

Let’s backtrack to the Antiquity period when the mighty Kulture – Evo Ruke!
Roman Emperor Diocletian resided in Split. See his legion- During the peak season, head to Đardin at the Strossmay-
naires in action setting up their guard on city streets and erov perivoj for a sense of urban music and culture. From
squares; or witness the Emperor travel via carriage. The pop and hip-hop to jazz and other genres, a plethora of
sounds of fanfare, drums and Roman music echo through- top Croatian musicians and performers will deliver their
out the city squares and streets which are filled with street melancholy/hypnotic/bumpy/ groovy sounds and feel to
performers, live concerts and more...Qwww.visitsplit. the streets.QJ‑2, Đardin, Park Josipa Jurja Strossmayera,

13.06 - 22.06 » The 12th Split 05.07 - 06.07 » Fibra Festival

Mediterranean Film Festival Its round 2 after last year’s inauguration of this relatively
For 12 year straight, this festival of full-length and short film new festival, Fibra (which in local dialect means ‘having
from the Mediterranean region has established itself as a temperature’, or in this case, ‘the summer heat’) is all
one of the best events on the Adriatic. When you consider about bringing the best of urban culture to the forefront.
that screenings take place on the beach with the summer Top regional bands and artists, from rock and hip hop to
breeze blowing amongst centuries-old pine trees, how even electronic beats, live it up on Bačvice beach this com-
could it not? Bring a blanket!QD‑3, Open Cinema Bačvice, ing July.  QD‑3, Open Cinema Bačvice, Preradovićevo
Kinoteka Zlatna vrata, Dom mladih, šetalište 6.

Photo by Ivan Alebić, Sinj Tourist Board Archives

8 Split In Your Pocket

Top Summer Events

18.07 - 08.09 » An Artist at

Meštrović’s - Kuzma Kovačić
The exhibition cycle is about an artist who takes and cre-
ates his works inside of Meštrović’s gallery. The fusion be-
tween a master’s works and one’s own style is what Kuzma
Kovačić intends on doing. Kovačić adds his own visions to
the motifs of Meštrović’s sculptures and also speaks in
detail of Meštrović’s life, his realities, events and beliefs.
QB‑3, Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović Gallery and
the Crikvine - Kaštilac, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39,

20.07 20:00 » GusGus Live

Though having toured in Croatia beforehand, the Icelandic
duo GusGus perform in Split for the first time! These gents
Photo by Zoran Baković, KUD Jedinstvo Archives
produce a unique electronic sound which has made them
household names in such circles. This unconventional
fusion of techno, trip-hope and house, successfully inte-
grates with other genres of music, and their own style is
called techno-soul.QJ‑1, Cornaro Rampart, Zagrebačka
ulica 1a, 190 - 350kn.

Photo by Rudgrcom, Ultra Europe Festival Archives

Little Fish, The 12th Split Mediterranean Film Festival Archives

12.07 - 14.07 » Ultra Europe Festival
Split’s Poljud stadium once again reverberates to the
booming bass of this Adriatic-hopping festival (other Ultra
events will be held on Vis and Hvar), with tens of thousands
of revelers enjoying the best that the electronic dance mu-
sic world can throw at them. Armin Van Buuren, Carl Cox,
David Guetta, Nicky Romero, Swedish House Mafia and
more.QD/C‑2, Poljud Stadium,

14.07 - 14.08 » The 65th Split

Summer Festival
A traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and
music will be held in venues throughout historical centre
of Split. Together with local productions by the Croatian
National Theatre in Split, the festival will host many mu-
sical, theatre and dance performances from Croatia and
abroad.QI‑1, Croatian National Theatre, Trg Gaje Bulata
Miljenko i Dobrila, Kaštela Tourist Board Archives
1, Summer 2019 9
Top Summer Events

County Events traditional events

SUMMER » Kino Mediteran 28.06 - 20.07 » Festival of Dalmatian
A sad fact from the march of modern times has been the klapa Omiš
closure of cinemas, and on the Croatian coast in particular Groups of singers called klape singing the most melo-
we mourn the loss of open air cinemas which offered the dious of songs from the high pitched tenor to the low
particular pleasure of watching a film on a balmy evening bass, and together they create angelic music without
under a starry sky. The great news is, a project named Kino the use of instruments, music from the soul. For over
Mediteran has for six years now been reinstituting cin- four weeks, klapa ensembles will serenade tourists
emas Dalmatia, with cinemas in 30 towns open during the down the cobbled stone paths of the city and the true
summer, and 10 of those open throughout the year. The final competition will be held mid-July. This is a must see
films on show are the best of European and world cinema, if in town as klapa singing is now recognised and pro-
including a programme for children and titles from cur- tected by UNESCO since its inclusion into the Represen-
rent film festivals. During the summer, films have bilingual tative List of Intangible Heritage. QOmiš
subtitles so they are accessible for tourists. May this project
grow and grow! Kino Mediteran Pirovac, Kino Mediteran 04.08 » Sinjska Alka
Omiš, Kino Mediteran Podgora,Kino Mediteran The Sinjska Alka is a famous equestrian competition
Imotski,  Kino Mediteran Ploče,  Kino Mediteran held in Sinj every first Sunday in the month of Au-
Bol, Kino Mediteran Supetar, Kino Mediteran Hvar, gust. Since 1715, it has been held to commemorate
Kino Mediteran Jelsa, Kino Mediteran Komiža, Kino the victory over the Ottoman Turks. The horseman
Mediteran must aim their lances at a hanging metal ring, called
an alka, at full gallop. Interestingly, only men who
25.07 - 27.07 » Graffiti Na Gradele were born in the Sinjska Krajina, the city of Sinj or
Bol on Brač island, with its paradise beach, is the place one of the surrounding villages, can take part in the
where graffiti and Dalmatian culture collide – Graffiti on Alka competition. Proudly, in 2010, it was written in
the Grill!QBol, Brač island. UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list QSinj,
01.08 - 09.08 » The Legend of Miljenko
and Dobrila 15.08 » Feast of the Assumption
A tale of forbidden love! Croatia’s true and tragic counter- Croatians have for centuries prayed and thanked the
part to Romeo and Juliet is reinvigorated in the town of Blessed Virgin Mary for her intercession and the city
Kaštela, home to Miljenko and Dobrila. The entire town of Sinj is one of our major Marian sanctuaries. The
and its people transport back into the 17th century, see Feast of the Assumption is a mega event as thou-
re-enactments of the legendary tale where family dispute sands flock to the city for the major procession; some
stands in the way of love, ending in death. When true love pilgrims arrive bare foot whilst the first mass is said at
never dies then it’s up to those who are present to help 4am and much more. A sense of true holiness can be
ensure that the memories are not forgotten. Kaštelani (or found here!QSinj,
town folk from the town of Kaštela) have for generations
kept this wonderful legend alive which is vindicated by
this festival. QKaštel Lukšić, 02.08 - 04.08 » Voi’Sa Festival
An eclectic selection of sounds, with funk, soul, latin, dub,
reggae, disco, boogie, house and electronic music all repre-
sented at Supetar’s Acapulco beach (Brač island).QAcapul-
co Beach, Supetar, Brač island,

18.08 » The Pirate Battle of Omiš

The Pirate Battle of Omiš is a unique and fascinating event
that reconstructs a battle that took place in the 13th cen-
tury and as a result, marked Omiš as the “City of Pirates.”
The role-playing battle describes the fight between the
Venetian fleet, commanded by Akoncije with pirates from
Omiš, led by Malduk. The battle took place in the harbour
in Omiš and ended with the Venetians having to pay a fee
in gold coins to pass through the Brač channel. The victory
lead to a roaring applause from the local citizens, as they
chanted the name of Malduk in celebration.QCity port,
Children’s Alka, Sinj Tourist Board Archives
10 Split In Your Pocket
My Life In Art
of the folk customs that is slowly disappearing. The entire
research is embodied in a work of art and implemented
on one road. It is a road linking two neighbouring towns,
Donji Humac and Nerežišća, and it was that particular
road that has always fascinated me because it is a place
of memory (both individual and collective). In fact, the
whole study and work is about the cultural identity of a
local community.

SIYP: Can you tell us something about your new stone

Dina: First, I must point out that stone masonry has been
running in my family for 116 years. When you are surround-
ed by stone since childhood, you cannot remain indifferent
but you fall in love with this material. What is different in
my works is that I combine stone and colour and as a result
I get interesting stone drawings. Last year, I displayed new
works to the public for the first time with an exhibition at
my father’s workshop. By choosing a workshop as an ex-
hibition space, I wanted to emphasise our family tradition
Dina Jakšić Pavasović of working with stone and focus attention on the process
rather than the final artefacts.
Dina Jakšić Pavasović SIYP: And in the end, where can we visit you and find
SIYP: Dear Dina, can you briefly present yourself to your works?
our readers? Dina: Most of my works are exhibited in our family galler-
Dina: I am a painter, though I often change the medium of ies. We own two galleries, the first is Jakšić Gallery located
expression. I come from the island of Brač but I do not re- in Donji Humac on the island of Brač. It was built more than
side their permanently. I studied in Rome at the Accademia ten years ago in the backyard of our family house next to
di Belle Arti and then graduated from the Academy of Fine our ateliers and workshops. The second gallery was opened
Arts in Zagreb. I am very active on the art scene, but I prefer four years ago in the centre of Split. In the galleries, besides
to exhibit in unusual spaces such as quarries, abandoned my works, there are also sculptures made by my brother
houses and even sculptural workshops. I am currently de- Lovre, jewellery by my mother Ida and many other interest-
voted to working at an art studio. ing stone objects.

SIYP: When did your love of art awaken, especially to-

wards painting?
Dina: It is difficult to say when exactly, it seems to me that
it has always existed, perhaps because of the fact that I was
born and raised in an artistic family, so love of art has been
present throughout my life. However, a love for painting
was born through education at a time when I was discover-
ing my own free expression. We are all looking to find our-
selves in a particular medium or an expression, and I have
found myself in colours and in free art forms.

SIYP: Do the surroundings of the island of Brač and

the town of Split affect your inspiration when creat-
ing new works? Are there any places or customs on
the island that inspire you in particular?
Dina: It certainly does have an influence; I think the en-
vironment always affects the artist as does the produc-
tion of his or her works, either directly through a certain
concept or through the mediation of certain filters that
transform reality into a new dimension. Both of those fac-
tors are present in my works. The first one relates to my
doctoral dissertation in which the island’s identity; and
the cultural heritage of dowry on the island of Brač is one Dina Jakšić Pavasović, Jakšić Gallery Archives Summer 2019 11

Pipi Archives


festivals, beach bars, beaches
& activities
Care Less This Summer #BolimePIPI
state when in your body and your mind you feel like doing
what is #bolimepipi? – nothing. When the fjaka takes hold, put all your jobs to
Scientists tell us that stress is the most dangerous illness of one side, take a nap, rest. Fjaka is not quite a siesta because
our times. But there is a place where stress is almost com- it’s not exactly about sleeping. It’s a state not too far from
pletely unknown. A place where they live like there is no nirvana. So give yourself up to the fjaka and flow with it.
tomorrow. And they drink a drink thanks to which they can Slow things right down. Because, #WhoGivesAPipi?
say about all the problems of modern life – I don’t give a
Pipi! #bolimepipi
#bolimepipi BEACHES
That city is Split. The best-known drink from Split is a fizzy
orange drink named Pipi, after Astrid Lindgren’s heroine There are very few cities which boast so many diverse
Pippi Longstocking. Pipi was created at the beginning of beaches right in the very centre as Split. If you arrive at the
the 1970s to make the magical Split summer even more train station, coach station or port, after three minutes’ walk
carefree, more relaxed. And when former Miss World con- you are on the sands of Bačvice beach! Bačvice is Split’s Co-
testant Ana Sasso rested a straw peeking out of a bottle of pacabana, a legendary sandy beach where young and old
Pipi against her lips in one of its legendary ads it became alike love to splash around. Some will paddle, others make
clear – we don’t give a Pipi! sandcastles or get into a game of picigin (a local ballgame
played in the shallows). Or perhaps read a newspaper in
the shade. Here, in 1981, a famous ad was filmed for Pipi.
#bolimepipi tone of voice We grew up with the image of Ana Sasso rising out of the
When you come to Split, to Dalmatia, make like you’re from sea in a white wet T-shirt emblazoned with the logo – Pipi!
Spit, a Dalmatian! Simply master these few items of wis-
dom and your pace of life will return to normal. All right, In the next cove is Ovčica beach, ideal for families with chil-
maybe a little slower than normal… dren. A little further is Firule where a dilemma awaits with
a choice of sandy and rocky bathing areas, known by locals
‘KO TO MOŽE PLATIT! - “MONEY CAN’T BUY THAT!” as “pancakes and potatoes”. The road leads to Zenta, a little
A sunny day is coming to an end. The sun is setting over the harbour where wild games of water polo and dances are
sea. You have the scent of pines in your nose, the sound of held for years. The people of Split, when it comes to beach-
the sea in your ears. A damp swimming costume in your es, are notoriously picky. Bene beach is where you go for
hand, a towel and a bottle of Pipi. Money can’t buy that! peace and shade, Kašuni for sunshine and socialising, and if
you simply must be seen the place to go is Žnjan. Wherever
The Split riva (waterfront). Saturday, around noon. Your you go there is sun and sea, and islands in the distance.
sunglasses perched on your head. You’re on the terrace
of your favourite café. The waiter is on his way with your And for us too, until the morning calm and the serene early
espresso and your bottle of Pipi. You have all the time in evening. It’s a perfect time for a deep breath and the even
the world. Beautiful women and handsome men stroll by. deeper conclusion: I don’t give a Pipi, #bolimepipi.
Money can’t buy that!

An ordinary kitchen in the home of an ordinary Split fam- #bolimepipi FESTIVALS

ily. Pršut, cheese, wine and anchovies on the table. Friends
around the table. Laughter, lively conversation. Money can’t Festivals! If it was just a case of the Split festival itself where
buy that! Not even all the money in the world, because the greatest Croatian singers have sung... You can’t catch
here not everything is for sale. the Split rhythm if you don’t at least know one song by Oli-
ver or Mišo Kovač. And Pipi is the perfect accompaniment
POMALO - TAKE IT EASY to any song. It goes with hip hop, jazz, rock, concerts in Split
In some places perhaps time is money, but not in Split! or Brač island’s coves. I don’t give a Pipi when I’m dancing,
Here people greet each other in passing with “pomalo” – singing or writing graffiti!
take it easy! It’s a greeting, a wish and a warning – there is
no place for rushing. Easy, slowly, relaxed! By the sea you Ultra Europe Festival
live in slow motion. It’s a question of the lifestyle and the Born in Split in 2013, Ultra now happens in 20 countries
experience which teaches you that nothing and no-one across Europe. The dance music elite take over venues in
will be taken away from you if you take it – easy. You work Split and the neighbouring islands for seven days of elec-
easy, walk easy and you drink in the Mediterranean. There is tronic hedonism.
always time for one more Pipi!
Voi’Sa Festival
FJAKA An eclectic selection of sounds, with funk, soul, latin, dub,
Fjaka is an important and untranslateable concept in Dal- reggae, disco, boogie, house and electronic music all repre-
matia. Fjaka is a meteorological, psychological and physical sented at Supetar’s Acapulco beach (Brač island). Summer 2019 13
Care Less This Summer #BolimePIPI

Olive Tree
This atmospheric restaurant and bar on the city centre wa-
terfront has excellent, imaginative food and warm service.

Joe’s Beach Lounge & Bar

At Kašjuni beach, on one side is a lively cocktail bar, on the
other a more laid-back lounge bar. Both fab places for eat-
ing, drinking, dancing, socializing and lazing away the sum-
mer days in style.

In the intimate Ovčica cove next to Bačvice, this café has
been a favourite meeting spot of the people of Split for
decades and is a bastion of rock music.

Kavana Procaffe
Coffee and excellent home-made cakes to the tune of the
Pipi Archives water lapping at the boats in Spinut harbour.

Graffiti Na Gradele Fro isprid banke

Bol on Brač island, with its paradise beach, is the place Of the cafés and bars that line the city waterfront, Fro (isprid
where graffiti and Dalmatian culture collide – Graffiti on banke – in front of the bank) is one of the standouts, popu-
the Grill! lar with locals. So bring your outsize sunglasses!

Kula Kula Mythos bar

This new festival in Trogir celebrates Croatia’s excellent al- A wonderful place to eat, drink and contemplate the mean-
ternative music scene. Some of its finest and longest-lived ing of life in Firule Bay.
bands provide the soundtrack to summertime shenanigans.
Cox bar
Split Mediterranean Film Festival Cocktails, coffee and music on the popular Žnjan beach,
Ten days and nights of film from the Mediterranean region, this is a pleasant beach bar with loungers and food avail-
under the stars on Bačvice beach or at the Golden Gate able too.
Jadran Beach Bar
Head west from the city centre along the waterfront to-
#bolimepipi BEACH CAFÉS wards Marjan hill, and you come to this lively beach bar
with a little place you can swim.
Your favourite drink in your favourite café is Split’s favourite #bolimepipi ACTIVITIES
remedy for your woes! Because all that chatting about…
everything… is simply a life necessity. The café Žbirac is a An active holiday requires wisely chosen activities. First and
little piece of shady heaven with a view of the bathers at foremost, you should learn to play picigin, that most local
Bačvice. Dvor in Firule offers peace, quiet and a sea view. of Split games, on the sands of Bačvice bay. The rules are
Coffee in Spinut has the rhythm of the boats being rocked simple, you just stand in the shallows and hurl yourself after
by the waves. There are cafés where you can go in casual the little ball, making sure it doesn’t fall into the sea. Expert
dress and cafés with a dress code… Whichever you choose, players make it so attractive that the audience gasps. While
life is beautiful! picigin is being played, nothing else in the world matters!

Žbirac The Marjan park forest has promenades and biking trails.
This legendary café has the best vantage spot on Bačvice Uphill, downhill, on gravel and tarmac, through forests,
beach and serves great coffee with a smile. along the waterside and through pines. And here you’ll find
the Museum of Senses, so you can challenge your senses to
Dvor experience what they have never experienced before while
People rave about this café and restaurant in the Firule Bay you wonder if such a thing is even possible. An open mind
for its fabulous food and drink, as well as the perfect beach- is a miraculous thing. Because it’s summer, and you don’t
side location. give a Pipi.
14 Split In Your Pocket

Bokamorra Pizzaurant & Cocktails Archives

All those who favor iće & piće have
the opportunity to try some fine
dining restaurants, brasseries
and bistros, as well as traditional
Dalmatian taverns Summer 2019 15
the inspiration that connects to me, the team I work with,
the restaurant, and of course, the demands and needs of the
guests who are growing in numbers each year and whose
demands are even greater.

SIYP: What is your favourite Croatian dish and why?

Ivica: My favourite Croatian dish is Skradinski rižot (Skradin
risotto). It is a dish that is unusual and demanding to make, it
is extremely tasty and can be varied in preparation.

SIYP: What inspires you in creating new meals at Zoí

Ivica: I am inspired by the very special allure and position
of the restaurant, and the desire for guests to try something
they will probably never taste again; a special fusion of fla-
vours that remain in one’s memory.

SIYP: What are your recommendations when choosing

a dish from the Zoí menu?
Ivica: As I’ve mentioned before, every dish is special in its
Photo by Mario Mehuljic, Zoí Restaurant Archives
own way. Personally, I would recommend that guests relax
and try what seems most appealing to them, whether it be a
The Art of meat, fish, soup or an appetiser... Whatever you choose, you
Mediterranean Cuisine will not be mistaken!

It is said that you should let go of the past but restaurant Zoí
definitely doesn’t. In fact, the Emperor’s dining room was Tina Mršić - pastry chef
once right next to the restaurant, giving this place a special A pastry chef at the Zoí restaurant who is passionate about
historical feel. Zoí (Greek for “life”) offers a unique experi- her job which fills her with delight, and what makes her
ence, embedding food from the ancient trade routes from most happy is when guests feel the beauty of the desserts
Lebanon to Greece, Italy, France and the Balkans. Cultures she prepares.
and music entwine with wine and delicacies that are fine,
and the décor is all stone and modern elegance. The terrace SIYP: Where did you find inspiration in becoming a pas-
overlooking the sea is sublime with the vibe of the town just try chef?
beneath you. That this is an unforgettable and sensual ex- Tina: I found inspiration in my mother’s desserts since she
perience is now recognised by Michelin, who awarded Zoí too is a pastry chef and I have loved sweets and desserts ever
two forks and spoons denoting comfort and quality. Q J‑3, since my early childhood.
Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 23, tel. (+385-21)
63 74 91, Open 11:00-23:00. (75 - 250kn). SIYP: What are your favourite flavour combinations?
A­P­T­B­J­6­W­i Tina: My favourite flavour combination is vanilla and cara-
Ivica Katić - chef SIYP: What is your favourite Croatian dessert?
SIYP: What inspired you to become a chef? How did you Tina: My favourite Croatian desert is the Zagreb Chocolate
start out? Cake.
Ivica: Since my early childhood, I loved to play in the kitchen
with my family and when it was time to decide on a fu- SIYP: Which homemade ingredient do you feel is not
ture path, the answer was very clear –‘I want to be a Chef!’ being used as much but could make for a great des-
In the beginning, it was very difficult to decide on what to sert?
do, which road to take? So I did all kinds of jobs and gained Tina: The fig is little used in today’s desserts and for this rea-
various experiences across various types of restaurants and son we have decided to make a great dessert made of figs.
hotels in Croatia and abroad.
SIYP: Which desserts that encompass authentic ingre-
SIYP: What is your philosophy of food? dients from the menu would you recommend to Zoí
Ivica: My food philosophy is that there is something special guests?
in each dish, in its appearance and mostly in taste. Therefore, Tina: Certainly our new dessert with fig. A light vanilla cream
I combine Mediterranean cuisine by using primarily local with mascarpone cheese, figs with prošek and a touch of lav-
ingredients with some international influences. Every dish ender. Ingredients that represent Dalmatia have been com-
and menu that I develop is my own creation and reflects on bined into a beautiful light dessert.
16 Split In Your Pocket


With Diocletian’s wall on one side,
amazing view of the harbour on the
other, and a flurry of Mediterranean
cuisine happening right in front of
you, let your biggest worry be
which delicious meal to choose.
The only thing you’ll have to do
is bring good mood and good
company, leave the rest to us.
Let your expectations be surpassed
and your senses surprised.
MICHELIN recommended restaurant.

+385 21 63 74 91

Bring this page when you dine with us

and receive 10% off Summer 2019 17
Croatian Hvaranin
Bajamonti To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a ko-
Located in the Prokurative Square, Bajamonti is named noba, ‘small old stone buildings’ where fisherman once
after one of Split’s former mayors who built a theater in spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception
1859, which was the most modern in Dalmatia at the time. as fresh fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white ri-
Today, it is a restaurant-cafe that offers traditional Mediter- sotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home made
ranean meat and fish dishes. You can even pick a lobster rakija.QH‑2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) 099 667 58
of your choice from the fish tank! Flowers always decorate 91. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (100 - 150kn).
each of the tables based on the season and they also hold A­P­G­X­B­W
various concerts, wine tastings and exhibitions.QC‑3, Trg
Republike 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 33, www.restoran- Konoba Varoš Open 07:30-24:00; Sun 09:00-24:00. (80 It’s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street
- 450kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W ­i with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu
may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your
Fife taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from
Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional Dal- the peka (grill); or try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It’s
matian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular meet- a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is
ing point for hungry local journalists, writers and actors. endless.QH‑2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-21) 39 61 38,
Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of fish stew, Open 09:00-24:00. (60 - 130kn).
pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and served with A­P­G­B­W
gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed
paprika. Fife’s only drawback is it’s popularity with tour- Ma:toni
ist guide-book writers, who have praised the place so This beautifully decorated restaurant is located in an arched
much in recent years that it can be difficult to get a seat room, adorned in warm cream tones with dark wooden
(or indeed get served) in high season.QH‑3, Trumbićeva tables. Metal doors and chandeliers give a Middle Ages feel
obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52 23. Open 07:00-24:00. (47 - to the place. They offer traditional Mediterranean food, us-
Zoí Archives
N­P­G­X­B­6­W ­i ing fresh seasonal ingredients, created with a contemporary
twist.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-21) 27 84
57, Open 13:00-23:00, Mon, Tue
18:00-23:00. (78 - 140 kn). A­P­G­T­B­6­W

Here’s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of
seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo
is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area
and you’ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of din-
ing here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the
ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.
QI‑2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091 405 66 66, www. Open 06:00-24:00. (100 - 250kn).

Oštarija u Viđakovi
Just a few steps from Bačvice beach, this tavern contin-
ues centuries-long tradition of family Viđakovi. Traditional
recipes and distinctive atmosphere with old photographs
and exhibited artefacts evoke memories from the past.The
menu is diverse, including meals such as braised beef with
gnocchi, homemade beef tripe, various cod dishes (bian-
co, stew and baked), cold and hot starters (octopus salad,
fish carpaccio, cuttlefish black risotto, Frutti di Mare pasta)
and plenty of grilled meat and fresh fish. Pour it down with
carefully chosen Croatian red and white wines and enjoy
in live music in the garden throughout the summer sea-
son. This is the place to feel the spirit of old Split and enjoy
the original Dalmatian food.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna
8, tel. (+385-21) 48 91 06/(+385-) 091 565 46 27. Open
Zoí Archives
09:00-24:00. (50 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­6­W ­i
18 Split In Your Pocket

Uje Oil Bar name actually refers to the art of eating!QI‑2, Josipa
Walk in and it’s hard not to feel the cosiness of the first Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-21) 81 93 24. Open 08:00-24:00;
Croatian olive oil bar, a place for fine wining and dining closed Sun. (70 - 180kn). A­P­G­S­J­W­K ­i
with a menu revamped almost daily pending on the
fresh ingredients coming through. The one thing that Bistro Mazzgoon
doesn’t change is its Dalmatian style. Open all year round Nestled in a courtyard, the stone walls surrounding the
and offers a truly amazing culinary experience.QJ‑2, outdoor terrace are tastefully decorated with greenery
Dominisova 3, tel. (+385-) 095 200 80 08, www.oilbar. and fresh flowers adorn the tables, offering a homey and
hr/. Open 10:00-24:00. (60 - 120kn). A­P ­G ­B ­J­ calming atmosphere. Delicious gnocchi and pasta dishes
6­W ­i are offered, such as truffle pasta or pasta with sun dried to-
matoes, as well as meat and fish dishes that will make your
Zlatna ribica mouth water.QJ‑2, Bajamontijeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 987
Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serv- 77 80. Open 12:00-24:00. (120 - 220 kn). A­P­G­X­
ing scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and E­6­W ­i
savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and
camera and you will fit right in.QI‑2, Kraj Svete Marije
8, tel. (+385-21) 34 87 10/(+385-) 091 767 71 69. Open
06:00-22:00. From June Open 06:00 - 23:00. (50 - 80kn).

Modern European
This very cosy and sleek restaurant is all about attention
to detail. Platters, soups, risottos, tuna, rabbit, mussels,
homemade macaroni, anti-pasta and so much more to of-
fer. A genuine touch of hedonism on the menu and why
not! Gluten free options are also available. FYI, the Čok in ARTiČOK Archives
ArtiČok is Dalmatian slang for a small bite, so the whole Summer 2019 19
Bokeria Kitchen & Wine
Simply put, this restaurant is stunning! Bokeria was in-
spired by the La Boqueira market in Barcelona. The mod-
ern and classy interior has smooth shelves lining the walls,
which are stacked with wine bottles and liquor, while a
mosaic tiled bar creates a spanish-like feel to the place. A
massive chandelier hangs from a 850 meter chain in the
middle of the room and extends over two floors. The res-
taurant offers simple Mediterranean meals and the menu
is decided based on the season and the vegetables avail-
able. It’s located near Split’s market, which ensures that
the ingredients are always fresh.QI‑2, Domaldova 8, tel.
(+385-21) 35 55 77. Open 08:00-23:30. (120 - 250kn).
A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W ­i

Brasserie on 7
Located along Split’s famous Riva waterfront overlooking
the Adriatic. French gastronomy is combined with Croa-
tian cuisine to create delicious dishes throughout the day.
Breakfast includes French toast, eggs benedict, croissants,
acai bowl, chia pudding, egg white omelette, your typi-
Ceviche, Zinfandel’s food & wine bar Archives
cal English style breakfast and homemade granola with
muesli. Early birds can waddle in from 07:30 - 11:00. Lunch
and dinner specialties include spinach and grilled octo- Dvor
pus salad, veal fillet, 300grm rib eye steak, cheese plat- Dvor is located right on the coast and is an amazing spot
ters, tuna steak and the Fruit de mer are just some of the for a delicious meal. Simply decorated with white walls
appetizing Mediterranean meals available.QI‑2, Obala and black-and-white photography, while green, pink and
hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 27 82 purple colourful chairs add splashes of colour to the place.
33, Open 07:30-24:00. (70 - 190 Offering delectable Mediterranean dishes, as well as de-
kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W ­i licious desserts.QE‑3, Put Firula 14, tel. (+385-21) 57 15
13. Open 08:00-24:00; Sun 09:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-
Cardo 01:00. (80 - 180kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W ­i
A touch of class with an elegant and modern décor backed
by some cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine Marshal
that encompasses all of the Mediterranean’s charm and a Located in the Marmont Hotel, this charming and pictur-
wine list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the esque restaurant has a modern and cozy environment all
wallet and is sure to please.QJ‑1, Domovinskog rata 49a rolled into one. They offer various types of breakfast combo
(Hotel Atrium), tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotel- meals, which include eggs, pastries, coffee and juice, such Open 06:00-23:00. (75 - 120kn). A­P­G­ as the Continental Breakfast or Mediterranean Breakfast,
X­B­W ­i to start your morning off right. For lunch and dinner, they
offer cold and warm appetizers, soups and salads, as well
as delicious risottos or meat and fish dishes. For a perfect
end to any meal, order from a selection of homemade
cakes, desserts and ice cream.QI‑2, Zadarska 13 (Hotel
Marmont), tel. (+385-21) 30 80 60, www.marmonthotel.
com/restoran. Open 07:00-22:00. From June Open 07:00
- 23:00. (150 - 250kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­6­W ­i

Be lured by this immaculate beachside dining experience
with amazing views of the Adriatic Sea set over two decks.
The bar is literally on the beach and packs refreshments
of every sort imaginable. If you’re peckish, Mistral serves
up specialties in seafood and meat on the grill, plus other
delicacies.QF‑3, Put Trstenika 19 (Radisson Blu Resort,
Split), tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30,
resort-split. Open 09:00-18:00. (80 - 200kn). A­X­T­
Photo by Pablo Merchán, Toto’s Burger Bar Archives
20 Split In Your Pocket
fillet steak with creamy saffron sauce. During the summer
season, it’s open until 02:00.QI‑2, Iza Lože 9 (Pjaca), tel.
(+385-) 099 498 18 88, Open
08:00-24:00. (80 - 200kn). A­X­B­E­J­6­W ­i

Zinfandel’s food & wine bar

According to the owners, they wanted the interior to be
both industrial and rustic looking and it truly looks ex-
quisite. Importantly, they’ve also managed to capture the
hearts of guests with their contemporary Croatian cuisine
and tapas, charcuterie and cheese platters, excellent wines
and impeccable service. It is tucked away in a quiet little al-
ley close to the Diocletian’s Palace.QJ‑2, Marulićeva 2, tel.
(+385-21) 35 51 35, www.zinfandelfoodandwinebar.
com. Open 08:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-23:00. (140 - 220
kn). A­P­G­X­B­E­J­6­W ­i

Zrno Soli
This restaurant, located at the ACI Marina, is stylish both
in and out. The cuisine is creative Mediterranean, with the
kitchen headed by an excellent and energetic chef. Ser-
vice is second to none and with a million dollar view over-
looking the old city of Split, the yachts and the harbour,
NoStress Bistro a relaxing meal here is a memorable experience.QC‑2,
Located on the famous Narodni trg, this ultra-chic bistro is Uvala baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 39 93 33/(+385-) 091 434
decorated with an abundance of flower pots that adorn the 30 50, Open 08:00-24:00; Fri, Sat, Sun
terrace and windowsills, giving it a romantic feel. It’s a great 08:00-01:00. (80-250kn). A­P­G­X­B­6­W ­i
spot to chat with some friends or view the latest fashion
trends walking by the square while nibbling on contempo-
rary Croatian dishes, largely influenced from the Istrian re- Quick Eats
gion. For your first meal of the day, the breakfast offer (08:00 Bepa
- 11:30) consists of omelette, toast, eggs benedict and a hot Located in the heart of the Old Town in Split, this charming
cappuccino. Lunch and beyond includes wasabi tuna on street food restaurant is the perfect spot for a quick meal
diced tomatoes, shrimp on truffle cream cheese and beef with omelettes, poached eggs with avocado or sand-
wiches from 07:00 - 11.30. There after, they serve all kinds
of dishes, such as salads, homemade pastas, burgers, fish
ethnic and meats from the grill, or delicious vegetarian and vegan
Biser Orijenta meals. To satisfy your sweet tooth, grab a chocolate lava
Classic Chinese dishes at super good portions. The lo- cake or a piece of blueberry pie. The green wooden tables
cation is a little odd since the restaruant is situated on and chairs, surrounded by small potted trees decorating
the fifth floor of one of the bussines buildings in Split, the outdoor terrace, give an earthy green peaceful feel
but the interior is perfecto and the view makes up for all to the place.QI‑2, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 46,
that. A mere 10 minute walk from the Đardin Park.QF‑3, Open 08:00-23:00. (40 - 200kn). A­P­
Ul. Juraja Dobrile 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 67 76. Open G­T­B­J­6­W ­i
11:30-24:00. (80 - 200kn). A­P­X­B­6­W
Corto Maltese Freestyle Food
Bistro Samurai Enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal set within brick
Conveniently situated in the city centre and just walls and a wooden bar that provide for an American-like
across the Hotel Bellevue, the menu offers a vast setting thus juxtaposing the Mediterranean cuisine on of-
range of sushi and judging by the cuisine and interior, fer. You can get a variety of meals here, from fruit salad
one can expect the complete Japanese experience in to fish and sandwiches. Their versatile menu will satisfy
food, dining and culture.QI‑2, Bana Josipa Jelačića everyone’s taste buds. For the biggest meal of the day
1, tel. (+385-21) 78 66 40, www.sushibarsplit. (08:00 - 12:00) there are a variety of scrambled eggs and omelettes, as well as sandwiches, fruit and cottage cheese
dyApkVJeQamlHSW8Gd97lZcqxJ0cceGpWYSZkak and freshly squeezed juice.QI‑2, Obrov 7, tel. (+385-21)
1c4GTY. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 17:00-23:00. (25 - 58 72 01/(+385-) 092 160 10 00, www.cortomaltese.
100kn). A­P­G­W rocks. Open 08:00-23:00. (50 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­
T­B­E­J­6­W ­i Summer 2019 21
Kantun Paulina
Some situations just call for a nice serving of ćevapi, name-
ly strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this little stand
on the corner serves them up right. There’s no seating
available but you can park it on a bench at the street and
watch the night-time drama unfold.QI‑2, Matošića 1, tel.
(+385-21) 39 59 73. Open 08:00-24:00, Sun 10:00-24:00.
(20 - 40kn). N­P­G­B­W

For a unique and tasty meal, stop by the Dalmatian Tapas bar
and restaurant, where you can savour excellent flavours in a
variety of meat and fish dishes, such as mussels, octopus grill,
as well as tasty bruschetta and quiche. The cozy wooden at-
mosphere and beautifully presented food will leave you with
a satisfied gastronomic experience.QJ‑2, Dominisova 6, tel.
(+385-) 095 200 80 08, Open 18:00-24:00.
(80 - 200kn). A­P­G­T­B­J­6­W Sardines, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Rizzo Superfood Juice&Smoothie Bar

Another player in the local snack game along with Bobis, Health is wealth and this bar is on par with the best!
Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made on freshly Opened in 2016, it’s open from morning till night and
baked bread that function perfectly as a mid-day or mid- the ‘a.m.’ menu includes omelette with goat’s cheese to
night snack.QI‑2, Tončićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 83 49/ healthy bread with bio marmalade. Meals at ‘p.m.’ include
(+385-) 091 574 07 64, Open 08:00- tuna pizza, veggie burgers, raw cakes, superfood, stews,
23:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. From June Open 08:00 - 24:00, salads and more. Juices & smoothies are mega! Gluten
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (12 - 23kn). N­B­W free, vegans and vegetarians ought to relish this place.
QF‑3, Ruđera Boškovića 13, tel. (+385-21) 67 12 55.
Sexy Cow Open 08:00-22:30. Closed Sun. (25 - 100 kn). A­P­G­
With rave reviews online, ‘Sexy Cow’ is a great addition to T­B­S­W­K ­i
the city food offer and the menu is packed with awesome
‘wraps & tortillas’ filled with heaps of ingredients, local Toto’s Burger Bar
too. The beef, veg and chicken wraps rock, the French- A buzz for burgers ranging from classic types to original
fries and sauces are also a great addition. Whereas the and innovative sorts can be had; both meat and veggie.
Nutella Boom Shake is a quench for hunger. As the lo- Spaghetti, soups, juices and salads are also on the menu!
cals say, come and visit the ‘new cow on the block’.QI‑1, Their breakfast and dessert offer has just been released,
Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, tel. (+385-21) 78 07 82, www. lots of omelettes & yoghurt cups, as well as sugar and glu- Open 08:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-01:00. ten free cakes.QH‑2/3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. (+385-
(45 - 75kn). A­P­G­T­B­S­J­W­K ­i 21) 31 40 40. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00. (42
- 97 kn). N­P­S­6­W ­i
wine bar
Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar Pizza
This wine and cheese bar has ‘Dalmatia’ written all Bokamorra Pizzaurant & Cocktails
over it with over 100 wines. Representing the diver- An out of the ordinary pizzeria and cocktail bar. The pizza
sity and quality of wines in this region, 50 wines are menu is brief, and the premium ingredients are sourced
available to try by the glass. As well, they offer about fresh in Italy or home-made onsite. The pizzas are light,
20 artisan cheeses that are primarily produced local- soft, springy and tasty. Add a creative cocktail list and a
ly. You can pick and choose whatever suits your taste vibrant interior (pizza oven clothed in golden mosaic)
buds. They have an extremely friendly staff, many of and you have a rather special experience.QC‑3, Obala
which hold wine qualifications. They also have been Ante Trumbića 16, tel. (+385-) 099 417 71 91. Open
mentioned in numerous national and international 12:00-01:00. From June Open 12:00 - 02:00. (65-95kn).
publications for their high-quality products and A­P­W
service. Professional tastings available.QI‑2, Bana
Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-21) 78 77 78, www. Galija Open 16:00-24:00. A­P­G­X­B­ The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near
E­J­6­W the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the
bathroom but that’s all part of the fun. They serve a wide
22 Split In Your Pocket
selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive buckwheat porridge, and oatmeal. This healthy cuisine of-
portions.QI‑2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 79 fers a huge variety of vegetarian meals, such as tofu burritos,
32, Open 10:00-24:00. (45 - miso soup, hemp burgers and baked vegetable crepes with
140kn). A­P­G­X­B­6­W cheese. All natural sweets to munch on for dessert such as
a bajadera biscuits, raffaello squares, microbiological nou-
Maslina gat squares, these taste great along with bio-fruit juice or
A cute little restaurant that’s a tad hard to find; we suggest organic tea.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 29a, www.upcafe.
you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service hr. Open 07:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-20:00; closed Sun. (15 -
is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled 59kn). N­P­G­X­B­V­6­W ­i
with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak
rolled in pancetta.QI‑2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49
88. Open 12:00-23:00. From June Open 12:00 - 24:00. Out of town
(50 - 150kn). A­P­G­B­J­6­W Baletna škola
Immersed in a pine forest, only a few meters away from
the sea, it’s located 15min from the center of Split by car.
Vegetarian Named after the first ballet school in Dalmatia, which
Galerija Food was opened in this very spot over century ago, it is now
Venture into this relatively new restaurant with a growing renovated as a restaurant and offers a variety of dalma-
reputation for its vegetarian and vegan offer that is based tian specialties, such as black risotto and grilled fish or
on seitan and tofu dishes as well as fruit and veggies which meat, which can be savoured while listening to traditional
are all purchased directly from local farmers. Healthy klapa music.QDon Frane Bege 2, Kaštel Kambelovac,
meals at top deals! The menu is seasonal and adapted tel. (+385-21) 22 02 08, fax (+385-21) 22 04 14, www.
to what is fresh. Other meals are typically Dalmatian and Open 08:00-24:00. (35 -
onus is placed on scrumptious desserts. Cosy with a splash 120kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­W
of retro interior, small terrace too.QJ‑2, Vuškovićeva 3, tel.
(+385-) 098 939 54 18. Open 08:00-24:00. (75 - 190kn). Konoba Bajso
A­P­G­B­6­W ­i Located in the village Staro selo Jesenice, the restaurant is
only 15 minutes away from Omiš, and they also offer local
Marta’s Veggie Fusion pick up for guests. Upon arrival, you’ll be dazzled by the large
The name says it all with a true restaurant dedicated to terrace and breathtaking views of nearby islands. All dishes
those who prefer their greens and its value for money! are based on traditional recipes, handed down generation to
Marta’s offers a breakfast through to dinner menu. Foods generation, and served with the best wines from local Dalma-
of interest include curries, soups, burgers, juices, detox tian wine cellars. Service is warm and you don’t feel like an-
teas, craft beer, sauces and more. There are gluten free other number, but rather as a valued customer.QStaro selo
options available too! Wholesome ingredients really put Jesenice 11, tel. (+385-) 095 574 66 00,
this up there as one of Split’s best additions to the food Open 15:00-23:00. (100 - 250kn). A­B­L­W
scene.QJ‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 8, tel. (+385-) 091 603 07
10, Open 09:00-22:00. (60 - Konoba Nikola
80kn). A­P­G­T­S­J­W­K ­i A family-run restaurant, founded in 2000, they have cre-
ated a comfortable and homey environment, adorned with
Up Café nautical knickknacks and photographs, to enjoy a delicious
An ultra-modern chic oasis of healthy food and natural Mediterranean meal in. They offer meals combining tradi-
beverages, created using seasonal and organic ingredi- tional local cuisine with contemporary twists, using pre-
ents, without any additives. Rise and shine for breakfast dominantly fresh fish and shellfish. Reservations are recom-
which includes freshly squeezed juice, burritos, cakes, pies, mended.QIvankova 42, Stobreč, tel. (+385-21) 32 62 35.
Open 12:00-24:00; Sun, Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. (60 - 300kn).
Restaurant & Wine bar Matrioška
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Service and advice all at the right price! This restaurant and
wine bar edges its competition by far with outstanding
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
Croatian and international dishes including sea food, meat
B Outside seating L Guarded parking and pasta on the menu; and all prepared with flair and pre-
cision. As for wine, the staff is knowledgeable and the wine
S Take away 6 Pet-friendly list is per se excellence! The entire dining experience is sure
to be remembered…QObala Sv. Nikole 91, Baška Voda,
W Wifi J Old town location tel. (+385-21) 60 45 97, Open
12:00-23:00. (80 - 300kn). A­B­L­W Summer 2019 23
Coffee & Cakes
4coffee soul food
The name says it all, heartfelt ownership and staff
that make every effort to ensure your experience is
soulful! Though tiny inside, the coffee experience
is why locals reverberate here as the beans that are
used and served send a scent of freshness and in the
air will have your nose twinkling.QJ‑2, Hrvojeva 9,
tel. (+385-) 097 678 77 70. Open 07:00-15:00, Sat
07:00-15:00, Sun 07:00-12:00. W
O’š kolač Archives
D16 Specialty Coffee
Bobis-Riva Split’s coffee haven is in fine form with amazing
A Split institution, Bobis has been providing the city’s reviews on social media. Positioned in the heart of
citizens with delectable eats since 1950. There are a load town, D16 Coffee serves 100% Arabica freshly roasted
of Bobis stores dotted throughout town, but this one has using specialty coffee beans. You can also take your
arguably the best location, as it’s right on the Riva. You can coffee to-go in biodegradable cups or sit down for a
match your coffee with an appropriate pastry or choose break from sightseeing. If you want a cold drink, the
a pre-wrapped one to take with you for your hike around cold brew coffee is a hit. It’s not pricey and the quality
Marjan.QI‑3, Obala hrv.narodnog preporoda 20, www. is excellent. Free wifi available and do check out the Open 06:00-22:00. From June Open 06:00 - mural inside showcasing the history of coffee. Also
24:00. N­G­B at Domovinskog rata 39B, open 07:00 - 15:00, closed
Sat&Sun.QJ‑2, Dominisova 16, tel. (+385-) 095 800
Fro (isprid banke) 54 67, Open 07:00-21:00.
Can’t miss this Café on the Riva! Large exterior, small in- A­P­G­W ­i
terior, large range of drinks, small wait for service! Fro is
all about kicking up the heels, enjoying the scenic view of
the harbour and watching people go by. Cocktails, coffees, Luka Ice-cream & Cakes
fresh OJ, beers and wine are all standard.QI‑2/3, Obala Known as one of the best places for ice cream in Split,
hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 43 these delicious homemade ice cream flavours will have
21. Open 07:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00. you coming back over and over again for more. Every day
they produce new flavours made with fresh ingredients,
Goluzarije so you’ll never get bored trying all the flavours. As well,
Got a sweet tooth? Want something light’n’fresh? Golu- they also serve tasty pie, cheesecake and smoothies.QI‑1,
zarije is a funky little patisserie/cake and coffee shop that Petra Svačića 2, tel. (+385-) 091 908 06 78. Open 08:30-
prides itself exclusively on traditional cakes made accord- 00:00, Fri, Sat 08:30-01:00. N­P­G­B­J­6­W
ing to traditional recipes.QI/D‑2, Ulica Zrinsko Franko-
panska 1, tel. (+385-21) 41 24 12. Open 07:00-23:00. Lvxor
A titular nod to the sixteen sphinxes that once guarded the
Kalafatić Caffe bar/Restaurant entrance to the mausoleum (and the one that remains),
If you wish to take a stroll outside of the old town, a good Kavana Lvxor’s location on the Peristyle is stellar. And the
choice is to Zenta bay, where the afternoon hours are services on offer match the quality of the location. There’s
perfect for lazying around with a coffee and friendly com- wireless Internet, magazines and daily newspapers in for-
pany. With a view of the bay and boats and the smell of the eign languages and a broad menu that includes normal
sea, it’s a real treat. Be sure to take a stroll around the whole café fare, plus cocktails, sandwiches and breakfast in the
picturesque bay all the way to the popular Bačvice beach. morning. In the warmer months, cushions are placed on
QE‑3, Cvjetna 1, tel. (+385-) 091 444 10 01/(+385-21) 38 the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge around in true
91 01. Open 07:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. P­G­X­ imperial style.QJ‑2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 10
B­6­W 82, Open 08:00-00:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-
01:00. A­P­G­X­B­J­W
Kavana Procaffe
A superb place for reading the daily paper and sipping a Mrvu Slađe
coffee with an outlook toward the Kaštela towns and the A very special artisan bakery where the usual offering of
Kozjak mountain. In lovely weather, there’s nothing better doughnuts, mini pizzas and so on is made extraordinary by
than sitting here and watching the passing sailboats and top quality and creativity. The doughnuts are ultra-light and
rowboats.QC‑2, Špinutska 67, tel. (+385-21) 38 43 23, fillings and toppings are generously applied. A sweet interior Open 07:00-24:00, Sat 07:00-24:00, and an experience definitely worth seeking out.QI‑1, Trg Gaje
Sun 08:00-24:00. A­P­G­X­B­6­W Bulata 6, tel. (+385-) 095 735 99 87. Open 07:00-10:00. J
24 Split In Your Pocket
Coffee & Cakes

O’š kolač? Tradicija

Oš kolač is paradise for lovers of fine pastries, cakes, This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand
pancakes, biscuits and handmade creams. Pastry chef old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits,
Tea Mamut has served famous movie stars whilst work- cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradi-
ing abroad and now returns home where she combines tion – just as the name itself!QI‑2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-
Dalmatian recipes with a refreshing modern day outlook 21) 36 10 70. Open 08:00-21:00; closed Sun. July, August
whilst using a selection of local fresh ingredients. So Open 08:00 - 21:30, Closed Sun. N­P­S
why not treat yourself to something sweet?QI‑1, Ćiril-
Metodova 4, tel. (+385-21) 48 04 44/(+385-) 099 480 Žbirac
44 45, Open 08:00-21:00. Closed Sun. It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bačvice for a
July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A­P­ coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot has a wonder-
G­B­J­6­W ful terrace and a perfect view of the beach. Žbirac known
in English as the Warty crab, hides during the day and
Stari Plac Pancakes comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the judge!QD‑3,
If you’re feeling peckish and savouring something sweet, then Preradovićevo šetalište 1b. Open 07:30-01:00; Fri, Sat
head to ‘Stari Plac’ which has quickly become a fav amongst 07:30-02:00. N­P­G­X­B­W
‘Splićani’. With a whopping 60 salty and sweet pancakes on
offer, you’re bound to go haywire with such abundance. They
also serve gluten free and protein pancakes with oats, not to
mentioned freshly squeezed juice. How can you resist that? juice bar
Also at Boškovićeva 9, E-3.QI‑1, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, tel. Juice Bar Kokolo
(+385-21) 54 00 88. Open 08:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-24:00. Excellent fresh juices, fruit salads and cocktails in a
A­P­T­B­S­J­W ­i prime spot in Diocletian’s palace, close to the water-
front. A great place to pick up some healthy refresh-
ment or enjoy a fruity breakfast.QI‑2/3, Trg Braće
Radić 15, tel. (+385-) 091 117 70 19. Open 08:00- 00:00, Sat, Sun 08:00-01:00. B­J Summer 2019 25

Lighting is effective with laser like rays spreading across
the venue, you might be packed like a sardine at times
but that’s what creates the atmosphere.QE‑3, Matice
hrvatske 1, tel. (+385-) 095 595 37 99. Open 07:00-24:00;
Fri, Sat 07:00-03:00. A­P­G­X­B­E­L­W

Na kantunu
Claustrophobic orange-coloured space which a huge
Hajduk Split symbol dominating one wall - which will at
least fill you with a deep sense of comfort and joy if you’ve
picked up any of the local sporting patriotism since your
arrival in the city. Na Kantunu’s real advantage however
is the old-town location, with outdoor seating in a small
square. Serving bottles of Velebitsko pivo (one of the few
Croatian ales worth drinking) alongside Czech-brewed
Lobkowicz, it’s also an outstanding place for a beer.QJ‑2,
Dominisova 9, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 91. Open 07:00-
01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. P­X­B­6­W

Noor Bar
This stunning bar packs into its small interior a fabulous
selection of quality spirits and specialises in craft cocktails.
Central the Club Archives Superbly imaginative and absolutely delicious, each cock-
tail really is hand crafted for your olfactory pleasure and
visual splendour. Cool, refined and very special.QI/J‑2, Ba-
Bars jamontijeva 2, tel. (+385-)098 987 77 80,
Academia Club Ghetto Open 06:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 06:00-02:00. A­P­G­W
Walk in and be blown away by the hundreds of bobbles
hanging off the ceiling, not to mention some super hip art ST Riva
décor on the walls and semi bohemian furniture. A bohe- Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily located
mian oasis in the heart of the Diocletian Palace! The drinks along the city walls and is an ideal place to relax on hot
menu is whacky with a great offer that covers local to summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime views you
global liquors, cognacs, wines… Kickback to world music have of the Riva and port, one of the better places to chill
during the day and then the music turns electro at night. whilst sipping beverages.QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narod-
QJ‑2, Dosud 10. Open 10:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. nog preporoda 18. Open 07:00-24:00. P­G­B­J­W

Antique Bar Clubs

Positioned on the Riva, Antique Bar entwines a tinge of Central the Club
classical design with modern appeal. There seems like A 360 degree renovation of the former ‘Central’ Cinema
a touch of hedonism is in the air and it’s a perfect place has now turned into a two floor nightclub with four bars,
to chill for coffee or other finer beverages. Choose to sit VIP lodges and state of the art sound. Each night is theme
indoors or outdoors as people pass on by.QI‑3, Obala based from evergreens to disco to world famous DJs play-
hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 6, tel. (+385-) 099 3322 ing live. Tops for a perfect all-nighter!QI‑1, Trg Gaje Bu-
281. Open 08:00-02:00. A­P­X­B­E­W lata bb, tel. (+385-) 091 332 32 34,
Open 00:30-06:00.
In the shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main CASINO
square - Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily
coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song Casino Admiral Split
chatter of the interesting local folk.QI‑2, Iza Lože 5, tel. Located within 5* hotel “Atrium”, very close to city
(+385-21) 34 82 57. Open 07:00-02:00. N­P­X­B­W center. Offers live games, slot machines, poker
tournaments and sport betting. Free parking inside
Moon bar underground garage, money exchange office, bar
Moon Bar has quickly become a hit amongst ‘Splićani’ lounge.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 49 a, tel. (+385-
with lots of theme nights, DJs and live bands performing ) 091 482 22 43, Open
throughout the year. There is always action aplenty and 00:00-24:00. P­G­X­W
the modern and futuristic interior adds to the ambience.
26 Split In Your Pocket

The Boss Club


Uvala Bačvice BB
+385 (0)21 465 056
Every day: 21:00 - 06:00 Summer 2019 27
Gooshter Beach Club
As part of the Le Meridien Lav Hotel in Split, Gooshter is
beach club where the midday ring of the gong means the
start of a new day. Well-tuned DJs, cocktails made on the
beach, and a cuisine which fuses East and South merge.
The interior gives attention to the ubiquitous animals from
the Mediterranean. The evening programme turns up a
notch with entertainment provided throughout the night.
- S P L I T - Z A D A R - QGrljevačka 2A, Podstrana, tel. (+385-) 091 444 42 01.
From June Open 11:00 - 24:00. A­X­U­B­E­L­W

Zenta Club
Welcome to one of Split’s newest additions to the club
scene which is becoming a hit amongst locals. Zenta

is outside the city but on the beachfront and is open as
a beach bar in the mornings and then transforms into a
nightclub when the sun sets. Zenta has multiple floors and
a terrace to dance the night away. Themed nights are part
and parcel of the event programme and it’s open ‘till 5am
every night of the week.QE‑3, Uvala Zenta 3, tel. (+385-
) 098 45 55 78, From June Open
Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat 23:00 - 05:00. A­P­G­X­B­

Fabrique - FUN & BBQ Pub
Located centrally in the historical palace, the sheer interior
oozes all that is old ‘n’ new and the lighting really sets the
tone. Beer wise, there are 40 or so international beers and
top Croatian craft beers. Fabrique has DJs spinning tunes
every evening and you can stay all night or drop in for
some warm up drinks before a night out.QI‑2, Trg Franje
Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-) 098 175 12 71. Open 10:00-
01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. A­P­G­X­B­W

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* The bearer of Sailing Guide coupon is entitled to 100 kn bonus for first registration
(5 x 25kn) at Admiral Casino Split or Admiral Casino Zadar. Bokamorra Pizzaurant & Cocktails Archives

28 Split In Your Pocket

Essential Split
Diocletian’s Palace
(Dioklecijanova palača)
A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the
hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practi-
cally any emperor would be more than happy to locate his
palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement
home. Construction began in 293 and was completed in
ten years and utilized a variety of materials from all around
the region, including white stone shipped from the island
of Brač to sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt.
Diocletian’s palace has become the quintessential “living
museum”, as modern shops and citizens reside within the
walls of the ancient palace complex. The part of the palace
known as “the basement” was built during the reign of
Diocletian to support the apartments placed above it and,
until 1956, was unexplored. Because it mirrors the floor plan
of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the base-
ment can help visitors envision the layout of the palace. And,
because exploring the depths of ancient palaces is difficult
work, the steps leading up and out of the northern end of
the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape. At
one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle is
now one of the central meeting points in town, with people
leisurely sipping coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient
architectural structures.QI/J‑2.

Fish Market (Ribarnica)

Upon entering, you might feel compelled to crack the clas- which overlooks the port. The peninsula is home to several
sic, “Something’s fishy here…” joke, but please refrain – it’s points of interest, including the remains of a 16th-century
been said before. What you can do is check out the hustle Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels from the 13th
and bustle of weighing, cutting, haggling and trading that and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps leads up to
has been going on at this site since the fish market moved Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on the pen-
from its original location in the south-eastern part of the insula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be seen and,
palace complex in 1843. The interesting smells emanating on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island
from the fish market might be compounded with another of Vis.QA/B‑2/3.
distinctive odor wafting through the air, that of sulphur.
There’s a sulphur spa nearby whose smell frequently Riva
mingles with the smell of fish, creating a truly interesting If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog
amalgamation of aromas.QI‑2, Obrov 5. narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian Na-
tional Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical
Green Market (Pazar) looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure
Any traveller worth their salt wants to get real and rub el- to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a broad
bows with some of the locals and Split’s Pazar is the place street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the
to go to satisfy that desire. Jump in and join in the hubbub old town and hugs the palace on its south side. It’s the de
going on, all dedicated to good ol’ small scale market capi- facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split
talism. The buying and selling frenzy involves a variety of to engage in some of the activities that have been honed
wares such as fruits and veggies, clothing and other odds to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup of coffee and
and ends.QJ‑3. people-watching. Split’s Riva continues westwards and is
as picturesque as ever, perfect for a stroll, coffee, or relax-
Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) ing on the deck chairs.QI‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog
When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia’s preporoda.
second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk
through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the Marjan The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St
peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walk- Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma)
ing or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An afternoon Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally guard-
of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started ed the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who
just like the locals would, with a drink at Café Vidilica, took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but Summer 2019 29
museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest mu-
seum in Croatia. The museum’s contents come mainly
from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with
thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also fea-
tured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman ori-
gin, along with hundreds of other objects made from
bone, metal and glass from various historical periods
including pre-historic, pre-Christian, Greek and Medi-
eval.QC‑2, Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21)
32 93 40, Open 09:00-14:00,16:00-
20:00, Sat 09:00-14:00,16:00-20:00. Closed Sun. Ad-
mission 40/20 kn.

Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović

Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac
Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the art-
ist himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of
telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble be-
ginnings as a stonecutter’s apprentice to an exalted posi-
tion in the international art scene. Meštrović’s influences
ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek
sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual
style. The display includes an impressive selection of his
large-scale works, alongside religiously-inspired works
and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was
also famous for the huge works he produced for public
spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split
(see “Landmarks”). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović
Game of Thrones Museum Archives emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syr-
acuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South
the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original Bend, Indiana in 1962. A five-minute walk further west
designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former em- along the same road is the Meštrović’s Crikvine - Kaštilac,
peror’s tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used a 16th-century agricultural fortified property bought by
in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants Meštrović in 1939 and converted into a chapel. Inside
of Diocletian’s rule do remain, in the form of portraits of lies what is arguably the artist’s most stunning creation,
the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of a cycle of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ.
the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars The result of 35 years’ work, the cycle incorporates mo-
to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr tifs from ancient, medieval and modern art, combined
who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early to produce an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual
Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the ca- sculpture.QB‑3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel.
thedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian’s victims, the
first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior of the ca-
thedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of GOT MUSEUM
the surrounding area and the nearby port.QJ‑2.
game of thrones museum
Veli Varoš The majestic HBO series has had many of its scenes
Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbour- recorded throughout Croatia, including Split. In-fact,
hood full of winding streets and old apartments that is only a stone throw from the museum itself is Diocle-
characteristic of Dalmatia. It’s well worth taking a stroll tian’s basements where Khaleesi put the dragons in
around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of captivity. The museum includes weapon and gar-
what daily life is like around Split.QH‑2. ment replicas, several thematic rooms dedicated
to key cities and characters, photographs taken on
the film set, Sandor and more. Step aside and make
Museums space for some photos with the likes of Daenerys,
Archaeological Museum Arya Stark, Jon Snow, Hodor and many others.QI‑2,
(Arheološki muzej) Bosanska ulica 9, tel. (+385-) 099 694 03 12, www.
Even though it’s situated north of the town centre, Split’s Open 09:00-23:00. J
archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The
30 Split In Your Pocket

If you haven’ t seen

Mesˇtrović ,
you haven’ t seen Split
t u
MEŠTROVIĆ GALLERY / Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46, 21 000 Split
MEŠTROVIĆ´S CRIKVINE-KAŠTILAC / Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 39, 21 000 Split
T: +385 (0)21 340 800 / / TUE - SUN 9 am - 7 pm, MON - closed

(+385-21) 34 08 00, Open 09:00- of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel Vidović in-
19:00, Closed Mon. From October Open 09:00 - 16:00, cluded. Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić and photo-
Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission graphs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the
20kn Children, 40kn Adults, 60kn Family. chin-strokers to ponder over. The museum’s temporary ex-
hibitions blending local and international artists, site-specif-
Museum of Croatian Archaeologi- ic audio installation in the museum’s atrium, as well as Art &
cal Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih Wine workshops open for applications, all add to the highly
arheoloških spomenika) interesting and enriching experience. Current information
Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian on all the upcoming events can be viewed at the museum’s
archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian website.QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35
Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent his- 01 17, Open 10:00-21:00. Closed Mon.
tory that has seen the museum’s site change frequently, Admission 30/20 kn Children, 60/40 kn Adults.
sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and
sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to the Split City Museum (Muzej grada Splita)
museum’s current location, opened in 1976, will give you the The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century
chance to view part of the museum’s 3,000-piece collection and, while in the process of becoming one of the city’s
of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items spanning several most respected families, built a small palace to serve as
periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval.QA‑3, Šetalište their family’s home. Today, the palace plays host to the
Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+385-21) 32 39 01/(+385-21) 32 City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced
39 09, Open 09:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00, back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and
Sat 09:00-14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has
grown in subsequent years to include various paintings
Museum of Fine Arts and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monu-
(Galerija umjetnina) ments and statues that were once parts of buildings in
Split’s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic’s most ab- Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numer-
sorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by an ous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that
altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of help tell the historical story of Split.QJ‑2, Papalićeva 1, tel.
Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview of nine- (+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72,
teenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes in most Open 08:30-22:00. Admission 25/15 kn. Summer 2019 31
The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica
splitske katedrale)
The treasury holds a collection of golden artifacts and
church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and ba-
roque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from
1522, Croatia’s oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the
8th century, the Supetar kartular from the 9th century
and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiđakon from the 13th
century.QJ‑2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5.

Saint Dominic’s Church and Monastery
(Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika)
Across from the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint
Dominic’s Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it
Meštrović Gallery, Ivan Mestrovic Museums Archives
acquired its current structure in 1682 and was widened
at the beginning of the 19th century. See the preserved
baroque altars, the painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano’ by
Jacopo Palma Jr and the ‘Vision in the Temple’, as well as
the gothic crucifix. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 18:30, Sunday 07:00,
08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00 and 18:30. The period between
July and September there will be no mass at 11:00 .QJ‑2/3,
Hrvojeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 32 34 71. Open 06:30 - 12:00,
17:30 - 19:00.

The Church of Our Lady of the Bell

tower (Crkva Gospe od Zvonika)
Just inside the Iron Gates inside Diocletian’s Palace you
will find the entry to a chapel. Founded in the 6th cen-
tury under Byzantine rule, the chapel was consecrated to
St Theodore, patron saint of soldiers. It’s bell tower, built
around the year 1100 is the oldest Romanesque bell tower
in Dalmatia. The chapel was renamed after a 13th century
medieval icon which once hung in the chapel and is now
kept in the Cathedral Treasury.QI‑2, Bajamontijeva 1.
Marjan Forest Park, Photo by shutterstock
The Franciscan Church and Monastery
of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin
Galleries Mary (Franjevačka crkva i samostan
Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije)
Emanuel Vidović) On the northern side of the Split peninsula along the
Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifully-re- shallow Kaštela Bay, you’ll find the Franciscan Monastery
stored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to the on Poljud. The name Poljud derives from the Latin word
career of local painter Emanuel Vidović (1872-1953). Croa- swamp (Paludes) since until recently, this area was cov-
tia’s leading post-impressionist, Vidović was consumed by ered with water. On this very site, Archbishop Paul built
a life-long fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, the Church of the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de Palude).
Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia providing most The Franciscan church and monastery is the most valuable
of his subject matter. Alongside a good cross-section of gothic-renaissance complex in Split. The church and mon-
Vidović’s uniquely hazy canvases, there is a fascinating re- astery have a nice collection of silver liturgical artifacts.
creation of the artist’s former studio – including dolls, cu- The oldest object is a gothic drawer for incense from the
rios and an extraordinary collection of wooden sculptures 15th century and a gothic-renaissance crucifix from the
by self-taught artist Petar Smajić. A Croatian-language film 16th century. The Museum also stows precious valuables
about Vidović’s life can be seen on the top floor - worth from the monastery library such as the Bull by Pope Cal-
watching if only because of the groovy, sixties-style plastic listus III in 1457 that gave redemption to those who, on the
seats you get to sit in.QJ‑2, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. Virgin’s feast days and on the first Sundays of the month,
(+385-21) 36 01 55, Open visited the Poljud sanctuary and gave donations for its
08:30-22:00. Admission 25/15 kn. construction. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun 09:00,
32 Split In Your Pocket
10:00, 11:30 and 19:00. June 21st - August 30th Mass Sun:
08:30, 10:00, 19:00.QC‑1, Poljudsko šetalište 2, tel. (+385-
21) 38 13 77, Open by prior

Grgur Ninski
In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called
together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of

the then current church system. The Great Assembly took
place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope
Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with
the only accepted language for Mass and official Church
business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of food & historical
debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the
middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side
of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as
walking tours
Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of politi- experience this
cal and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the
cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero unique combination
and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see of gastronomy, culture
the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by
another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north and history in Split
gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for
good luck).QJ‑2.

Poljud Stadium (Stadion Poljud)

Join us akneda local!
eat li
Known to locals as Poljudska ljepotica or the “Poljud
beauty”, Poljud is the second largest stadium in Croatia
(after Maksimir Stadium in Zagreb) and has a capacity of

35,000 people. The stadium was originally constructed
by the Yugoslavian government as part of the facilities for day!
the 1979 Mediterannean Games and was officially opened
by Josip Broz Tito, who was an avowed fan of the team
who play their home games in Poljud, HNK Hajduk Split.
10.30am -1.30pm
Along with the team’s rich history, Hajduk is also known HISTORICAL & GASTRO
for cultivating quality football players, with several going TREASURES
on to illustrious careers in European club football. Suffice it morning food&cultural tour
to say that when the Croatian national team placed third in
the 1998 World Cup, five of the eleven starters were former 3:00pm - 6.00pm
Hajduk players. In 2015, the Poljud Stadium was declared SPLIT FOOD TOUR
as a protected cultural monument of the Republic of Croa- afternoon food&cultural tour

Priva te tours
food tour on request !
eat in split food tours

food tours
Get the ultimate gastonomic experience with fully
experienced tour guides who have a passion for food
and wine. Choose from snack, wine, history and gas-
tro tours through to cooking up a 5 course meal with booking and info:
a leading local chef. The combination of thorough
city knowledge and its impact on age old recipes
gives visitors a deeper insight into typcial Dalmatian
and Medittereanean cuisine.  Qtel. (+385) 098 34 38 + 385 98 343 815
15, travel agency
. Summer 2019 33

Health Tourism
vascular surgery, orthopaedics, dermatology, endocrinol-
ogy, cardiology and sports medicine. Treatments include
the latest, most effective dermatological and non-inva-
sive skin rejuvenation treatments, cosmetic surgery and
rehabilitation through physiotherapy. Finally, there is a
modern dental practice specialising in implants.

We believe you’ll find Croatian medical and beauty pro-

fessionals to be knowledgeable and highly skilled, and
the hotel’s facilities to be well equipped. Croatian medi-
cal care is also reasonably priced in comparison to many
countries in western Europe. So, if you want to feel well
and look fabulous, head for Split. For details check out the
hotel’s website:

Marvie Hotel & Health Archives

Marvie Hotel & Health

Recover. Reshape. Recharge.
Can you imagine a better combination than a modern
design hotel, a fabulous historical city, the glittering blue
Adriatic, and the chance to rejuvenate your body and relax
your soul with treatments by professional medical staff and Marvie Hotel & Health Archives

The comfortable and modern Marvie hotel boasts an

outdoor pool and excellent bar on the top roof terrace
that commands an amazing view. The Renevie wellness
and spa at the Marvie Hotel & Health is run by highly-
qualified professionals offering an indoor pool with saunas,
a steam bath, relaxation zone and gym. 

However, this unique hotel is also a one-stop shop for

beauty and medical treatments including physicians, acu-
puncturists, nutritionists, physiotherapists, masseurs, beau-
ticians and pedicurists as well as specialists inplastic and Marvie Hotel & Health Archives

The restaurant at the MarvieHotel & Health
brings Mediterranean, mostly gluten-free
delicacies to the table. So if you’re looking
for a healthy, delicious, cutting-edge three
or four course gluten-free dinner menu, this
is the place to go. Why not make time for
a visit to the spa and a beauty treatment
too?QE‑3, Peričićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 27
98 00, Open
12:00-22:00. 115-190kn. A­P­G­U­
Da’Mar Restaurant, Marvie Hotel & Health Archives

34 Split In Your Pocket

Marvie does not just fulfill the needs of the contemporary traveler. It goes further.
Hotel Marvie, a new-concept hotel, has two unique advantages – a spectacular
location and comprehensive, high-end medical expertise.
Split Surroundings

Musum Alka of Sinj, Sinj Tourist Board, Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board Archives

Split Surroundings
don’t make mistake of missing some
of these great places in split’s
surrounding areas

36 Split In Your Pocket

Split Surroundings

Regional Staples & Maybe because of its distance from the mainland, the is-
Local Delicacies land of Vis has preserved one particular snack-food special-
ity that (traditionally at least) is found here and nowhere
One of the great joys of eating out in Dalmatia is the sheer else. The famously tangy and aromatic Viška pogača (Vis
plentitude of fresh fish, seafood and gallons of good wine pie) consistsof a bready outer casing and an anchovy-and-
to wash it all down with. However there is much more to onion filling. Traditionally there are two types of pogača:
Dalmatian cooking than the standard menus of holiday- the Viška pogača from Vis Town comes with the basic fill-
resort restaurants. Combining the salty riches of the Adriatic ing described above; while the Komiška pogača from the
sea with the meats, vegetables and orchard fruits of the inte- other side of the island comes with extra tomato. Pies like
rior, Dalmatian cuisine is a many-coloured mosaic of regional these are sold by the main bakeries in both Vis Town and
specialities and local variations. Komiža and are an essential inclusion in any local picnic.
Street snacks are a good place to start: one traditional dish Variations on the anchovy-pie theme occasionally appear
that has made a sudden and welcome return to local baker- on café and restaurant menus elsewhere in Croatia al-
ies is the Soparnik, a large circular pie made from thin pastry though they can’t really compare with the original article.
and a succulent filling of blitva (Swiss chard) and onions or One Vis-pie surrogate we can heartily recommend is the
garlic. Indigenous to the region of Poljica (the coastal strip pizza-dough version produced by Pizzeria Kariola, which
that lies between Split and Omiš), it was long considered has branches in Vis Town and Zagreb.     
a simple rustic dish that wouldn’t be of much interest to
gourmet sophisticates. Reinvented as a symbol of the age- When it comes to festive food and slap-up meals, it’s the
old originality of local cooking, the soparnik has enjoyed mountainous area inland from the Dalmatian coast, the
something of a renaissance in recent years and is now avail- Zagora, that offers most in the way of unique recipes. As
able from bakeries throughout Dalmatia, especially in central well as supporting a small amount of livestock, these starkly
Split. It is also a regular feature of the outdoor culinary festi- beautiful uplands are home to freshwater trout, shrimps,
vals that take place over the summer. The soparnik usually frogs and snails. Frogs used to be a peasant staple and are
takes the form of a huge disc, rather like an oversized pizza, nowadays considered a local delicacy. They are prepared in
and is cut into slices to be eaten as a delicious savoury various ways: grilled, fried in breadcrumbs or stewed in a
street snack. Be warned that fresh soparnik usually disap- big iron pot – the spicy,tomato-and-paprika-flavoured frog
pears like proverbial hot cakes – if you see it in the bakery stew (brujet od žaba) is a strong weekend favourite. Cuts
display window, grab your slice while you can.   of veal and lamb are often slow-cooked under a peka or Summer 2019 37

Split Surroundings
metal lid covered in embers. You should also look out for a large pot. Unlike the more widespread sarma, arambaši
specific and delightful treats such as calf tongue with olive do not include rice. Although arambaši  are found on
oil, garlic and parsley; and the Trilj-region speciality triljska menus all over the Dalmatian interior, the town of Sinj is
šiša, or lamb guts stuffed with bacon, onion and tomato.    frequently regarded as their true home. Indeed arambaši
from Sinj are included on the Croatian Ministry of Culture’s
Arguably the most celebrated dish of the Dalmatian interior national heritage list – consuming a plateful of the things is
is arambaši, leaves of pickled cabbage stuffed with a mix- considered de rigeur during the Sinjska Alka, the knightly
ture of beef, pork, bacon and onion, and slowly stewed in tournament held in town every August. Indeed the name
arambaši may derive from the word Harambaš, leader of a
group of horsemen. 

Most common of all Dalmatian specialities is pašticada, the

piquant beef stew that used to be a ceremonial feast-day
dish but is now on the menu of almost every self-respecting
restaurant and tavern. Indeed for anyone interested in find-
ing out what exactly it is that Dalmatians eat when they’re
not eating fish, this is the most easily accessible answer. If
you are out and about in Split, pašticada is frequently the
first thing to be chalked up on the lists of daily specials that
appear outside neighbourhood taverns every morning.
Comprising slowly-stewed steak marinaded in prunes and
Soparnik, Photo by Višnja Arambašić
tomatoes, it has a rich, distinctive sweet-and-sour taste, and
is usually served with gnocchi. 

Dalmatian regional cuisine really excels when it comes to the

desserts. Given the harsh working lives endured by many
Dalmatian families in the past, desserts were usually reserved
for feast days and special celebrations such as weddings and
christenings. They were not, as they increasingly are nowa-
days, displayed on the glass counters of patisseries and cafés,
but prepared and consumed at home on ritual occasions.
Common to many Dalmatian towns, Trogir and Imotski in
particular, rafioli are pockets of pastry filled with a sweet
fruit-and-nut mixture and dusted with sugar. They are a bit
Photo by Monika Vrgoč, Sinj Tourist Board Archives like the mince pies eaten by British families at Christmas time,
but pack a distinctively Mediterranean citrus punch. Accord-
ing to tradition Imotski rafioli were served to Austrian Em-
peror Franz-Josef I when he visited the town in 1879. 

Imotski is also famous for its trademark cake, the succulent

pastry-topped sponge know as Imotska torta. Looking
rather like a hat box, it gains added oomph from the ad-
dition of rakija, rum or sweet dessert wine – or indeed all
of them together; each family will have their own preferred
blend. A similar cake, the Makarana, exists in the coastal
settlement of Makarska, where it is sold by the town’s wa-
terfront Gradska Kavana Romana. A dense but springy
sponge cake flavoured with almond, orange and lemon, it
has a beautiful fragrance and is quite crunchy at the top.

One almost-forgotten dessert which has made a trium-

phant return to Croatia’s delicatessen shops in recent years
is Viški hib from the island of Vis, a small compressed, rub-
bery cake composed of crushed figs, almonds and herbs.
Very rich in taste, it is usually served in tin slices, accompa-
nied by a glass of rakija.
Imotski rafioli, Photo by Višnja Arambašić
By Jonathan Bousfield
38 Split In Your Pocket
Split Surroundings
Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1
21000 Split, Croatia
tel/fax: +385 (0) 21
490 032, 490 033, 490 036 • Summer 2019 39

Split Surroundings

Top Sights
Cetina River Canyon
Thanks to this position at the mouth of the Cetina, Omiš
and the nearby villages offer many activities which can
turn your holiday into an unforgettable adventure. One
of these is rafting on the Cetina. If you are a swimmer,
experienced skippers will help you negotiate the rapids
and you’ll feel as though you’re flying along in the dinghy.
Rafting trips start from the Pavić bridge, which was built
during the time of the Emperor Franz Joseph. A speciality
of this region is fried frogs’ legs wrapped in slices of pro-
sciutto and cooked in red wine with rosemary. There’s also
poljički soparnik which is a listed item of cultural heritage.

The Hvar Historic Theatre

The Hvar Theater is not only the oldest communal theater
in Europe; it is one of the best preserved baroque theaters
on the old continent. Built in 1612, this majestic construc- Omiš Tourist Board Archives
tion has staged some of the best plays, stage shows,
masked dances, operas, and orchestras Europe has had
to offer over the centuries. The 19th century was truly the
golden age of the theater, Carnival time which is linked
to holy festivities flourished back then. The neo-baroque
style is superbly preserved and after further reconstruc-
tion and renovation, one of the islands best landmarks is
full of life once again. QJurja Matijevića 20, Hvar.

Jakšić Gallery
Jakšić gallery is an exhibition space in Donji Humac on the
island of Brač. The artistic family Jakšić has a 115 year long
tradition in stone shaping. Their story begins in 1903 when Museum Alka of Sinj, Photo by Ilija Veselica, Sinj Tourist
their ancestor opened the first stone - carving workshop. Board, Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board Archives
Dražen Jakšić, artistically educated, inherits a stone - carv-
ing workshop from his father and modernizes it according
to time. Today Jakšić family consists of four members, all of
whom are educated in the art, so it was necessary to cre-
ate a space in which they can exhibit their works. Jakšić
gallery was built in 2008, in the yard of the family house,
where their grandfather first exhibited his works. Beside
the gallery are workshops and ateliers where it is possible
to see the artists in work, as well as the process of creating
works of art and stone shaping. In the gallery you can find:
unique jewelery from semiprecious stones and silver made
by fashion designer Ida Stipčić Jakšić, stone sculptures by
the academic sculptor Lovre Jakšić, paintings by Dina
Jakšić Pavasović and various usable and decorative objects
made of stone.QDonji Humac 75, Nerežišća, Brač island,
tel. (+385-) 98 42 24 99, Open
09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00. A

One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessi-
ble fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on
sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There’s an excellent view
of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with Jakšić Gallery Archives

40 Split In Your Pocket

Split Surroundings
the A-1 autocesta. Partially restored and now an outdoor
museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It will
take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and soak in
the great views in every direction.There is a café right below
the fortress. Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was
first mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th
century. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area
but never succeeding in taking the fortress. The Ottoman
Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking
Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally
evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you visit Klis you
will see why it was fought over so fiercely. Anyone occupy-
ing the fortress could control passage through the rather
narrow mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland. The
HBO series Game of Thrones has also been filmed in Klis.
Qtel. (+385-21) 24 05 78, Open
09:00-19:00. Admission 60/30kn.

Museum Alka of Sinj

Nominated for European Museum of the Year, the Mu-
seum of Alka represents a 300 year traditional equestrian
race where spearmen target their lances at a hanging met-
al ring in full gallop. Of note are the uniforms, equipment The Vranjača Cave, Dugopolje Tourist Board Archives
and weapons used, as well as historic statues and rules
that have remained since the beginning. The procession The Vranjača Cave (Špilja Vranjača)
preceding the Alka and the reconstruction of the Battle of The Vranjača cave is made up of two chambers. The first,
Sinj from 1715 pays homage to the grand history behind the existence of which was already known in the 19th
this age old city.QPut Petrovca 12, Sinj, tel. (+385-21) century, has no stalactites. The second was discovered in
44 47 30, Open 09:00-19:00. Closed Mon. 1903 by Stipe Punda. This part consists of a system of nine
Admission 40/20 kn. smaller chambers in colours ranging from green through
blue, some of which shimmer due to the presence of
Solin crystals. The cave is about 360m long and is at a constant
Solin, aka  Salona  in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres temperature of 15ºC all year round. The cave, Vranjača, is
outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and located in the foothills of the central part of Mosor, on the
the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman northern side. If you are coming from Split then take the
settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of paved road through Dugopolje to the village Kotlenica in
its primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace the hamlet Punde (25km) and finally follow another 300m
of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now, path to the entrance of the cave. The cave is open from
erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days 15th March to 1st November, 09:00 - 20:00 (June,
there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity’s early July, August), 09:00 - 19:00 (May, September), 10:00
history. According to the Bible, Paul’s student Titus  trav- - 18:00 (April, October) and by prior arrangement
eled to the region and, because of its sea connections with (November - March). Guided tours, which last about 1
Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have hour, are available in English, and cost 40kn for adults
attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the and 20kn for children. Please call (+385-) 098 74 90 00
town’s role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left be- for more information.
hind an archaeological legacy that has earned the town the
title of  “Croatia’s Pompeii”.

The Stari Grad Plain

Croatia’s 7th location protected by UNESCO, the Stari Grad
Plain is located on the Island of Hvar and is an agricultural
landscape that was established by ancient Greek colo-
nists in the 4th century BC. Remarkably, it still remains in
its original form and is still in use today where grapes and
olives are grown in the fields. It’s an amazing sight to visit
and be able to view the ancient Greek system for agricul-
tural production.QHvar, Salona, Photo by Nives Kocijan Summer 2019 41

Split Surroundings

North of Split producing olive oil. As well, numerous bike paths in this
region allow for a great way to explore this time-honoured
Some might say that Trogir is the ‘mini-me’ of Split, it’s a fine area.
pit stop as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its medi-
eval stone churches, monasteries, palaces and squares. Our Marina Tourist Board
tip is the Kamerlengo Fortress which has grand views for QAnte Rudana 47, tel. (+385-21) 88 90 15,
taking photos. For another step back in time the town of Open 08:00-20:00.
Solin, which is an ancient Roman settlement and happens
to be the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian still has its well
preserved amphitheatre, town gate, fortress and other his- Trogir
torical buildings. Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance
away, Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses
incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of
Marina which have been built upon by a progression of genera-
Marina, a municipality in the Split-Dalmatia County, is lo- tions during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of
cated in the center of Dalmatia. It’s situated exactly half- Trogir’s old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic,
way in between the UNESCO protected cities Split and Baroque and Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxta-
Šibenik and 12km from Trogir. The settlement is surround- posed with modern stores and shop fronts, making Trogir
ed by picturesque fortifications, such as the quadrangular a fascinating amalgamation of architectural styles from
tower the bishops of Trogir built in the 15th century, Drid different eras.
hill containing remnants of old stone houses scattered Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the
throughout the former Dridske county, as well as the St. island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region
Philip and Jacob’s Cave, famous for having been visited by until well into the Roman era, when its importance was
Emperor Franz Joseph I in the year 1891. The Marina Rivi- diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other
era consists of three small picturesque Dalmatian towns: coastal Croatian cities, Trogir underwent a tumultuous se-
Vinišće, Poljica and Sevid, which overlook the crystal clear ries of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods
blue waters and sandy beaches. In the surrounding Zagora of subservience to outside governments, with the city fi-
region, original Dalmatian traditions and customs, folklore nally coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.
costumes and local gastronomy are still preserved. This While the former rulers of the region were interested in
area is rich in ancient olive groves and is widely known for Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today
42 Split In Your Pocket
Split Surroundings
are interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of Trogir. Okrug, located on the western side of Čiovo, is
of the city’s old town. Of particular importance are the made up of two districts, the Upper and Lower. The name
churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the of this place comes from the Croatian word for “circle” since
Duke’s palace, which dates from the 13th century; and both places are distributed along a circular bay. The nu-
perhaps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Law- merous bays and beaches have made this area one of the
rence and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master most popular tourist destinations in Croatia. Along with
artist and Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to beautiful spots for swimming, a wide range of sporting
the cathedral in 1240. activities are offered on the beaches, such as scuba diving,
The cultural and historical significance of the town and water skiing, paragliding, as well as fitness centers and ten-
its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the nis courts. After a long day spent relaxing in the sunshine,
United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organi- there are numerous restaurants and bars along the coast,
zation) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage with great music, for a fun night out.
sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir’s his-
tory. While traditionally an economy focused on agricul- Okrug Tourist Board
ture and fishing, this new era of the city’s development will QBana Josipa Jelačića 15, Okrug Gornji, tel. (+385-21)
almost definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia’s coast 88 73 11, Open 07:00-21:00.
becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists
from around the world.
Trogir Tourist Board Between Split and Trogir, 20 km to the south, lies a se-
QTrg Ivana Pavla II/1, tel. (+385-21) 88 56 28, www. quence of seven small towns known collectively as Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 09:00-13:00. ‘Kaštela’ (Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you
drive along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see
signs directing to (Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel
Čiovo Kambelovac, Kaštel Lukšić, Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Novi, Kaštel
Čiovo, a mountainous island in central Dalmatia, extends Štafilić). Most were constructed in the 16th century to
eastward and encloses the Kaštela bay. Well-known towns provide shelter from marauding pirates or Turks. It would
and villages on the island include Trogir, Arbanija and Slati- take the better part of a day to check out their interesting
na, as well as Okrug Gornji and Donji. The island is con- architectural features. Of particular interest is the newly
nected to the mainland by a small bridge in the old center built Marina Kaštela which accommodates private and Summer 2019 43

Split Surroundings
charter boats. In Kaštel Sućurac, sits the oldest defensive along a 9km coastline making it an attractive location
fortress which was built in 1392 by the Archbishop of Split to visit. Along with its sandy and pebble beaches, olive
A. Gvaldo. In Kaštel Gomilica in front of the church, there is orchards, vineyards and numerous peach trees create a
an oak tree over 700 years old, under which, according to beautiful Mediterranean town. The first settlements in
the legend, Croatian king Zvonimir rested. And that’s just this area can be traced back to the ancient Roman settle-
the beginning. All are accessible by car. ment Pituntium. The turbulent history of this area, of the
Greek, Roman and Turkish invasions, can be seen from the
Kaštel Stari Tourist Information Centre numerous archaeological excavations and the remains of
QObala kralja Tomislava 14, Kaštel Stari, tel. (+385- buildings and monuments from the different time periods.
21) 23 20 44/(+385-21) 22 79 33, Historical monuments, such as the Church of St. George,
Open 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-12:00,17:00-20:00, Sun the Castle of Cindro and the Statue of St. Anthony of Padua
08:00-12:00. from the 18th century, are still standing today in between
the various hotels and apartments.
South of Split Podstrana Tourist Board
Ahoy matey! Welcome to the city of pirates in Omiš, yet QDavora Jurasa 2, tel. (+385-21) 33 38 44, www.
another bastion of ancient pride. Choose from adrenaline Open 08:00-20:00, Sun 08:00-14:00.
to serenity. Omiš is home to the river Cetina which hosts
action packed adventure thrills with zip lines, canoeing,
white water rafting, abseiling, cliff jumping, waterfalls and Islands
more. Pulsating! Then strolling through the old town one Island hopping has been a craze of late with tour agencies
embarks on age old churches, squares and the odd seagull offering daily to weekly trips. Though they may all look the
ducking for shade. Beaches close by are clean as a whistle same, each island is characterised by a rich cultural and
and face some of the islands. historical heritage, tradition and cuisine. Olive groves, win-
eries, church towers and stone piers are part of the charm
they hold. Each has their own dialect and story to tell. The
Podstrana beaches are second to none with Brač, Hvar and Šolta just
Podstrana is a small tourist town located 8km from Split. some of the pristine islands to visit, and with a different
It’s well-known for its beautiful beaches, which stretch story to tell.

44 Split In Your Pocket

Split Surroundings

Šolta Tourist Info Center

Šolta QŠoltanskih žrtava 14, Grohote, tel. (+385-21) 65 46 57,
Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to Open 08:00-15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis
courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from
Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special Brač
places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life Brač, the Croatian Adriatic’s third largest island, offers spec-
has been largely maintained to the present day. This means tacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain of
that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, re-
are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in tains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, Su-
the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusu- petar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija car/
ally kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on the
of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which
which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal is on the northwest.
environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island, If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia’s most
not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish. famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It’s a point jutting
The island’s fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of
and returning with the day’s catch, which is then prepared the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded dur-
for the evening’s meal and accompanied by some excellent ing the summer, especially with younger people. It’s also a
homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to popular spot for windsurfing. If you’d prefer a less frenetic
sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not bathing experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina
survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adven- Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač’s
ture from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as well. north side. There are great views of the mainland moun-
The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play per- tains from there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica
fect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing, just above the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of
and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive hitting the beach, you should head for Škrip, a small, pic-
groves and vineyards that supply the island’s other princi- turesque village located on a plateau almost in the middle
pal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere, of Brač.
nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of
as a short stay. Either way, there’s something for everyone. Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 Summer 2019 45
Split Surroundings
hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive prison guards bringing food to the prisoners along the
there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed narrow dungeon walls, not to mention the despairing
turn off on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of sounds of the the prisoners! Going around Hvar, you’ll
Nerežišća. The views from the peak are terrific. If you like encounter historical charm with the Renaissance St Ste-
scuba diving and snorkeling, there are dive centers in phen’s Cathedral (16-17th century) styled by local mas-
Supetar and Bol that rent equipment and organize dive ters Karlić and Pomenić and the centre of the old part of
cruises. It’s easy to spend a day or more enjoying the town has a 15th century form.
warm, clear waters of the Croatian Adriatic. On the northern slope above the square are the partially
Brač white marble has been exported all over the world. preserved inner city walls of the noble Hvar palace.
It’s claimed that Brač marble was even used in the con- On the southern slope in the cemetery is the former Au-
struction of the American White House. And of course, it gustinian church of St Michael (Sv Mikule), dated from
was used in the building of many local houses. You will the early 15th century.
see several quarries as you drive about the island, and On the eastern side of town, outside the city walls lies
they are accessible – a tort lawyer’s dream. the 16th century Renaissance summer villa of Hanibal
There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner between two bays
(Dragon) and Kopačina. They’re located between Su- is the Franciscan monastery with church of Our Lady of
petar and Donji Humac. Mercy (1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary for sail-
Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač you ors. Inside this church is a museum with a valuable art
wouldn’t suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend collection, the most precious work being the Last Sup-
many more days just driving around or relaxing on the per. Under the main altar lies the grave of Hanibal Lucić.
beach, soaking up the scenery. Hvar also has an armoury with the most monumental
sculpture of civil architecture (1579-1611) atop an older
Supetar Tourist Information Centre one from 1331. Located under a huge vault stood a
QPorat 1, tel. (+385-21) 63 05 51, warehouse for the Hvar galley. On the floor above is the
Open 08:00-22:00. public theatre of Hvar from 1612, one of the oldest in
Europe which was commissioned by the knight Pietro
Semitecolo. The Benedictine monastery in Hvar is well
Hvar known for it’s craftsmanship of unique lace made from
You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split agave fibres.
to Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that Hvar is by far the sunniest island in the Adriatic and is
goes to Jelsa and Hvar city. If you’re a little south of Split, one of the most beautiful islands in the world. The scent
you can still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik within Hvar is difficult to miss with fields upon fields of
(just south of Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on lavender, heather and sage which offer a stunning visual
the island of Hvar. If you’re coming from the north, you and fragrant experience. The mountainous areas from
can also get to Hvar along the coast with a line from Brusje to Hvar presents an exceptional view of the larg-
Rijeka to Dubrovnik which makes a stop in Hvar city. See est plantations of lavender on the island. A longer stay
getting around section. Hvar is without a doubt, one on Hvar will give you the opportunity for a thorough
of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. It extends exploration.
out in an east-west direction and on its southern-south- Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned
western coast there are a number of small islets and is- on a route which passes alongside the island and today’s
lands. Along its northern side there are only two islands, ferry port. The oldest town on the island and one of the
Zečevo and Duga. oldest in Europe, it has been around since 384-385 B.C.
Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pa- Located here is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorović
kleni islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar and the Early Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan).
city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands land- Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the
scapes are protected. first hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest
The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting points of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the
name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for east, Hum. 
coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here. Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth
The western side of Hvar is the widest and mostly con- of the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They
tains fields and small towns. call Vrboska ‘’Little Venice’’ due to it’s small bridges with
Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travel- which it is connected.
lers with medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and
Napoleon (built by the French in 1810) and their hilltop Hvar Tourist Board
fortressed walls, located high above, atop St Nicholas, QTrg Sv. Stjepana 42, 21450 Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 74
offering a splendid view of below. The prison dungeon 10 59, Open 08:00-20:00, Sun 08:00-
inside the Španjol Fortress is quite impressive and if you 13:00. From July Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 -
take a peek below, it’s easy to imagine the sounds of the 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00.
46 Split In Your Pocket
Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croa- to defend the town against attacks from Turkish in-
tia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Cetina River vaders), churches and other structures dating back
winds a tortuous course through the countryside as far as the 13th century.
until it finally empties into the Adriatic. The mouth In Omiš there are eight famous churches. Three are
of the river passes through an impressive gorge near located within the old city walls and include the
the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a quiet and pic- church of St. Michael, the church of the Holy Ghost
turesque town that is the center of what has become and the church of St. Rocco. The remaining church-
known as “the Omiš Riviera.” However, things were es are located outside of the old city walls and in-
not always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety clude the church of St. Peter, the church of St. Luke
because of a band of pirates, the Omiški gusari or and the church of St. Mary, located at the old Omiš
Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled the waters in the cemetery. The church of Our Lady of Carmel is at
area in special boats called “arrows”, so named for the Franciscan Monastery and the remains of the
their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily church of St. John in Borak. The Fortress (Tvrđava)
into the mouth of the river. is located on top of Dinara mountain and offers an
While it’s true that today yachts are more likely enchanting view of the entire area, from the canyon
to be seen cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera of the Cetina River to the islands of Brač, Hvar and
than a group of fast-traveling pirate ships, there’s Šolta to the Dalmatian region of Poljica.
still plenty of adventure to be had And when you’re finished exploring
in Omiš. The mountainous ar- OMIŠ Tourist Board the natural beauty of Omiš and it’s
eas around the town make for great Fošal 1a, history, the town’s central location
hiking spots, the water is an invit- makes it a perfect starting point for
ing crystalline blue and the history tel. (+385-21) 86 13 50, the rest of your Dalmatian coast
of the town can be explored in the adventure, hopefully minus any
remnants of fortresses (like Mirabe- dreams of terrorizing the seas as a
la, which the Corsairs of Omiš used modern-day Corsair of Omiš.
Split Surroundings
Vis of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek colony of
The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The ruins of the
in the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden zone for ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of the port, the Ro-
foreigners in Communist Yugoslavia, the island has largely man baths, the necropolis and theatre and you can also view
remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by seas of artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological Museum of Vis which
indescribable beauty. Vis is an island that cannot be seen on is located in the Austrian fortress “Gospina batarija’ (Our Lady’s
a day trip due to its fair distance from the mainland. However, Battery) also known for its large collection of amphorae and
it’s an excellent place to spend a few days to get a good sense more notably for its bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis.
of its beauty, or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms. The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the churches
The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or catama- of St Cyprian (Sv. Ciprijana) and the Holy Spirit, the Franciscan
ran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a car, you can monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and the sanctuary of Our
only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip takes 1 hour Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja. Komiža is a fishing village locat-
and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be purchased at the ed at the southern end of the island which is dominated by the
kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets can be purchased at Grimaldi fortress, which also houses the Fishing Museum. The
Jadrolinija Agency. The two largest towns on the island, Vis and main church in Komiža, the church of St Mikule, is positioned
Komiža, are connected with a bus line. The main bus station is above the village offering a spectacular view of below.
located at the ferry stop, on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the town-
are purchased on the bus and are only valid for one way travel ship of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone huts), only
(fare 20kn). For those who get off the bus in Komiža, there is a 45 minute walk from Komiža. Dragodid is interesting because
always a bus connection for Vis tied in with the ferry depar- it is one of the rare preserved villages which has conserved its
tures for Split. The best way to experience Vis is to go about exceptional form. Without the diving and swimming in the
it with abandon and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the Medvjedina (Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the Zelena
gastronomic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around špilja (Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn’t be the
on the marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the pretti- marvel that it is. And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža
est sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of island and enjoy a true marine experience!
Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also, don’t miss  
the chance to meander around the renaissance summer vil- Vis Tourist Board
las, Tito’s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of the ancient city. QŠetalište Stare Isse 5, tel. (+385-21) 71 70 17,
Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia. One Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

48 Split In Your Pocket

Makarska Riviera

Photo by Makarska Tourist Board Archives

Makarska Riviera
here you’ll find some of the most
photographed, most famous and
most prized beach resorts on the
adriatic Summer 2019 49

Makarska Riviera
Cycling on the it’s a seriously gruelling climb, involving plenty of hairpin
Makarska Riviera bends and some challenging gradients, especially near the
summit. Even experienced, physically fit cyclists will need
About four kilometres northwest of the town of Makarska, about three hours to get to the top, although they’ll be re-
the coastal foot- and cycle-path passes an angular grey warded with exhilarating views of the Dalmatian coast and
shed standing beside a small pebbly cove. A boldly geo- its islands. It will be chilly up there, so you’ll need to pack
metric construction with a pitched roof sheltering a small extra clothes. 
bench, it was clearly designed by contemporary architects If the Sveti Jure climb looks like a bit too much for you
with style in mind. A clue to the shed’s purpose is provided then there’s a wealth of alternative routes, taking cyclists
by a bouquet of spanners and screwdrivers, attached to the above the coastal strip and into the weird Biokovo foothill-
wall by steel rope. This enigmatic structure is indeed a bi- landscape of Mediterranean scrub and abandoned stone
cycle repair shack, part of an EU-funded project to improve villages. The little-travelled roads immediately above Ma-
the infrastructure in one of the Mediterranean’s fastest- karska and Tučepi are ideal for half-day cycling trips that
growing cycling destinations. Clearly, there’s a lot more to involve a bit of climbing but also plenty of lateral coasting
Adriatic tourism than just the beach. along the slope-hugging lanes. It is a strange and eerie part
of the world, and cycling is the best way to explore it. Up
With a lush coastal strip backed by grey mountains, the above Makarska and Tučepi is the fascinating Biokovo Bo-
Makarska Riviera offers not just the perfect scenery for a tanical Garden, where plants typical of the mountain region
cycling holiday but also a broad range of challenges, of- are arranged beneath steep scree-covered slopes. As you
fering the kind of punishing mountain ascents that serious might expect, the views of the coastal strip are gorgeous.  
cyclists will be talking about for months afterwards as well
as relaxed seaside pedaling that will suit a family day out. There are further cycling alternatives to the southeast, with
marked trails above Drašnice and Živogošće enabling cy-
The main target for ambitious mountain-bike cyclists is clists to take in a coast-and-mountain circuit that involves
Biokovo, the rugged grey massif that rises imperiously seashore trails, hillside lanes and a stretch of preserved
above the coast. Protected as a national park, it’s a vast area woodland too.There is another popular coast-and-moun-
and there are numerous ways of exploring it. Arguably the tain circuit above Drvenik and Zaostrog further east, with
most challenging route is the 30km climb from the town of the beaches of Drvenik and the historic monastery at Zaos-
Makarska to Biokovo’s highest peak, the 1762-metre Sveti trog providing plenty of excuses to mix a bit of cycling with
Jure. Making use of a mixture of bike paths and paved roads other holiday pursuits.  

Mountain biker riding a bike at the seaside and mountains landscape, Photo by shutterstock

50 Split In Your Pocket

Makarska Riviera
with good tyres, and even then you might have to carry it
across the odd rocky obstacle.   

Spring and autumn are the best times for cycling – which
is good news if you’re travelling as a family because ac-
commodation prices are more bearable at this time of year.
Cycling through the countryside it’s important to bear in
mind that a lot of rural inns will be closed outside the sum-
mer season – all the more reason to pack a bottle of water
and some energy-giving snacks. Bear in mind also that the
sun can shine hard from Easter right through to October, so
headgear is essential as well as plenty of fluid.

Mountain bikes can be rented from the main tourist agen-

cies in Makarska town, or from the seasonal, open-air bike-
hire points behind Makarska’s main beach. Use of a moun-
tain bike will set you back around 25kn/hour or 100kn/day,
with discounts for longer rentals. Helmets will be supplied,
and you may get additional back up (a tyre repair kit; a
phone number in case you break down), so it’s always a
good idea to ask when you make the rental.

Photo by Brela Tourist Board Archives The Central Dalmatia Bike map, available for free from Ma-
karska Tourist Office, is your best guide to routes. Detailed
Whichever part of the Biokovo massif you chose to explore route descriptions and advice on where to take a break are
you’ll be treated to a fantastic range of landscape and flora, printed on the reverse side of the map. Indeed this map
with a variety of rock-hugging alpine shrubs and flowers will more than suffice if you are thinking of exploring the
totally different to the palm trees and olive groves of the coastal routes. If your heart is set on exploring the Biokovo
coastal strip.  massif, however, you are well advised to supplement the
tourist office’s cycling map by purchasing a more detailed
Cycling up and down hills in a test of your all-round rug- guide to the area such as the 1:25 000 Biokovo hiking map
ged-ness is far from being the only kind of biking on offer. published by SMAND and available in local shops. Once
The less demanding coastal rides can also be exhilarating, you are out on the paths, waymarkers (consisting of a pic-
especially those heading east and west from Makarska ture of a cyclist accompanied by a number and a colour
town. With plenty of pebbly-beach stops and coastal cafes code) will let you know you’re on the right path.
offering refreshments,they are perfect for families as well
as being suitable for cyclists of medium stamina. Heading By Jonathan Bousfield
east from Makarska, the trail to Tučepi takes you across the  
wooded Osejava peninsula, criss-crossed by gravel paths.
On the southern side of the peninsula is Nugal Beach, a fa-
mously beautiful pebbly cove.

Heading northwest from Makarska (and it’s here that we

spotted that bike shed at the beginning of the story), it’s
possible to cycle all the way to Brela, 15km up the coast,
although the latter stretches of the route involve asphalt
roads and it’s the earlier, wilder bits of the trail that are most
interesting. Heading out of central Makarska takes you past
busy stretches of beach as well as a string of uncommer-
cialized coves backed by olive groves or forest. You will also
pass the flying saucer-like form of the former children’s holi-
day resort at Krvavica, the pearl of modernist architecture
that is currently standing derelict and awaiting an investor. 

It’s important to note that these coastal cycle paths are

likely to be busy with strollers and other cyclists, so it’s nev-
er really possible to pick up speed. The going is also quite Photo by Gradac Tourist Board Archives
rough in places, so you will need a proper mountain bike Summer 2019 51
Makarska Riviera

Top Sights
The Antun Gojak Town Gallery
(Gradska galerija Antuna Gojaka)
The Gallery started life thanks to a donation in 1988 by
Marin Gojak of 333 paintings and drawings by his brother
Antun (1907 - 1986). And so the works of “Makarska’s Van
Gogh”, full of colour and meditations on nature and life
itself, came to form the nucleus of Makarska’s first town
gallery in the building of the former grammar school.
Slowly, new works by other artists are being added to the Photo by Makarska Tourist Board Archives
collection, and with around 12 exhibitions every year, the
Gallery is today an essential component of Makarska’s cul- The Franciscan Monastery of the
tural life.QUlica don Mihovila Pavlinovića 1, Makarska, Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
tel. (+385-21) 61 21 98, (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na
Depends on exhibitions. Admission free. nebo uznesene)
The Franciscans arrived in Makarska from Bosnia build-
The Biokovo NATURE PARK ing their monastery in 1502. Although their efforts were
The Biokovo Nature Park covers most of the mountain frustrated by frequent invasions, a big earthquake and po-
range and has a number of information centres and edu- litical opposition, through the centuries the rather lovely
cational trails. Since it is a managed park, you are required monastery you see today came into being. The old mon-
to buy a ticket at the entrance on the Makarska – Vrgorac astery complex has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a
road. You can drive up there, but the best way to explore it stone wellhead, a church and a bell tower. The monastery
is to enjoy a good long hike. Just a couple of precautions: served as a school for religious studies, in 1971 becoming
the terrain is rugged – wear strong shoes or hiking boots. part of the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The monks stud-
The summer heat and sun can be overwhelming: set off at ied natural sciences and humanities, founding a library
sunrise, and take a hat, sun protection and plenty of water. which today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as jour-
Outside of the summer, avoid setting off if wind or rain is nals, manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular,
forecast: the bura (north wind) can reach hurricane force. Dr. Jure Radić, was a keen biologist who led the creation
Presentation centre Makarska: phone (+385-21) 61 69 24. of the Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still ac-
Presentation Centre Adrion - Heart of the Mountain tive today and is based in the monastery. Its Malacological
Local History Collection of Biokovo Nature Park. Museum, one of Makarska’s top attractions, is a respected
Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 institution with good links with similar museums around
- 20:00, Closed Mon. the world. The Institute also has a herbarium of plant spe-
cies of the Biokovo and Adriatic regions.QFranjevački put
1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 22 59, www.franjevci-

Baška Voda TOURIST BOARD Kalalarga (Široka ulica)

QObala sv. Nikole 31, tel. (+385-21) 62 07 13, Široka ulica is fondly known by the locals as Kalalarga –, Open a Croatisation of the Italian phrase “calle larga”, meaning
08:00 - 21:00.  Broad Street. The street is anything but broad by modern
standards, but back in the day this was the very core of the
Brela TOURIST BOARD town, the hub where everything was happening. Makar-
QTrg Alojzija Stepinca b.b., tel. (+385-21) 61 84 ska’s Kalelarga winds through the town, the stone walls to
55,, Open 08:00 - each side of you providing welcome shade. The Baroque
21:00. buildings are in the typical Dalmatian style with green
wooden shutters, wrought-iron railings and old-fashioned
Makarska TOURIST BOARD lanterns.QMakarska.
QObala kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-21) 61
20 02,, www.makarska- Kostanić’s Grave (Kostanića grob) Open 08:00 - 18:00.  The hills above the Makarska Riviera resorts are peppered
with very old gravestones called stećci (pronounced
Tučepi Tourist Board “stetch-tsi”). There is an element of mystery surrounding
QDonji ratac 30, tel. (+385-21) 62 31 00, tzo-tu- these stones, which date from the period between the, Open 08:00 11th and the 15th centuries. But one particular stećak at
- 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. the village of Sela, inland from Drvenik, has its very own
legend. Two cavalrymen, Dragutin Miletić from Vrgorac
52 Split In Your Pocket
Makarska Riviera
and Dragimir Kostanić from Drvenik, were in love with
the same girl, the daughter of a duke named Jurić from
Gradac. They fought a duel which resulted in the death of
Kostanić. The girl, who loved Kostanić more, died of grief
on hearing the news. This is where Kostanić lies.QSela, nr.

Makarska Town Museum

(Gradski muzej Makarska)
Makarska’s town museum is a great place to find out about
the history and culture underlying the sun, sea and sum-
mertime hedonism. It covers the history of the region
from prehistory to the modern period, and has a wealth
of archaeological artefacts as well as material covering
the customs and culture of the seaside areas and the
mountain villages. The Museum building, the waterfront
Tonoli Palace, is a historic treasure in itself.QObala kralja
Tomislava 17/1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 02, www. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00
- 21:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 13:00,
19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

The Malacological Museum

(Malakološki muzej Makarska)
Housed in the Franciscan monastery of St Mary, the Mala-
cological Museum was founded by scientist and monk
Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990) and his associates in the mon-
astery. Created with painstaking attention to scientific
detail and a devotion to celebrating the hidden beauty
in the world around us (including under the sea), Friar
Radić created a collection that is the best of its kind in the
country. Malacology is the branch of zoology that stud-
ies molluscs – a large branch of the animal kingdom that
includes everything from slugs and snails to octopus and
squid plus a host of creatures with shells. There are about
3000 shells in the collection and a collection of inverte-
brate fossils. There’s also a collection on the flora of the
Biokovo mountains and the Adriatic region. The collection
of shells includes some spectacular specimens from the
Adriatic, as well as beautiful shells from all over the world.
So, whether you’re a budding biologist or a curious passer-
by, there’s sure to be something that will take your breath
away.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 12
56/(+385-) 099 885 21 65. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 -
19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Admission 15/10 kn.

The Millstones Monument (Kameni mlin)

Tučepi’s olive oil press and oil-makers’ association were
founded in 1911 and are still glowing with monounsatu-
rated-style health today: Tučepi’s oil is among the most
prized for miles around. A monument to the oil-making
tradition in Tučepi was created in the form of this pair of
millstones set on the waterfront.QTučepi.

Monument to the Tourist

(Spomenik turistu)
Makarska and its nearby resorts owe their living to tour-
ism these days, so it’s only right that in 2006 this statue Summer 2019 53
Makarska Riviera
was erected to pay homage to the tourist on the centenary
arriving on the of tourism in the town. Created by young sculptor Nikola
makarska riviera Šanjeka, it shows a rather chic couple taking a stroll along
the waterfront. Look closely, and you’ll notice that the
The closest airport to Makarska is Split, 87km away. female tourist has a striking lustre to her right boob. Yes,
The airport is served by domestic and international it’s believed that giving it a friendly squeeze confers good
scheduled flights, as well as charters during summer. luck upon the squeezer, as well as the wrath of feminists
For timetable information, see www.split-airport. the world over.QRiva waterfront, Makarska.
hr. To get to Makarska you’ll need to take a bus or hire
a car. For more information about travelling to and The Rock of Brela (Kamen Brela)
from Split, see page Arriving & Transport in Split. A miniscule islet just off the shoreline on one of Brela’s
gorgeous beaches, the Rock of Brela displays some of
By car: if you take the A1 motorway , take the the natural contrasts that make this region so stunning:
Šestanovac exit. A toll is payable, costs 18kn in one grey rock, green scented pine and a sea and sky so blue
direction for a car from Split, 199kn from Zagreb. From they melt into each other. The Rock of Brela is an iconic
Split, there is also the Adriatic highway. Take a detour visual that is part of the Makarska Riviera’s very identity.
inland to avoid bottlenecks at Omiš if you’re travelling The rock is a protected natural monument, so no climbing
at the weekend during peak season. please!QDugi rat Beach, Brela.

By coach: there are regular coaches from Zagreb, Statue of Don Mihovil Pavlinović (Kip
Split and Dubrovnik to Makarska, as well as from Mo- don Mihovila Pavlinovića)
star (Bosnia and Herzegovina), Ulcinj (Montenegro) For a small place, Podgora has plenty of public sculpture.
and Belgrade (Serbia). See www.autobusni-kolod- And it has not one but two notable memorials to Don Mihovil Pavlinović, a locally-born priest (1831-1887) who
became a leading figure in the Croatian National Revival,
By train: Makarska is not served by the railway net- a political movement campaigning for the right to self-
work. Your best bet is to travel to Split or Ploče, then determination of the Croatian people. There’s a statue of
transfer by bus. Rail timetable information: www. Don Mihovil on the main square (which is also named after him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his grave has an
unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendić in a colourful
By boat: you can get to Makarska from Sumartin on style reminiscent of Art Deco.QPodgora.
Brač island, or to Drvenik further south from Sućuraj
on Hvar island. For information see www.jadrolinija. Statue of St Nicholas (Kip sv. Nikole)
hr. Baška Voda’s little harbour is the proud owner of an im-
pressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the
Main Bus Station town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know
(Autobusni kolodvor Makarska) that it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who cre-
There is one desk for information and tickets. The ated the bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singer’s
manned left luggage facility (no lockers) has the grave in Paris before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches
same working hours as the ticket office, price 5kn for sculpture at the University of Rijeka, created this statue in
the first hour, 1,50kn for each additional hour.QAnte 1999.QBaška Voda.
Starčevića 30, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 33.
Open 05:30-22:30. the vepric shrine
On the main coast road heading west from Makarska, set
Jadrolinija Ticket Kiosk into the slopes of a hill is the shrine of Vepric, dedicated to
On the main Makarska waterfront (Riva), sells ferry the Virgin Mary. The forested, hilly landscape with a brook
tickets.QObala kralja Tomislava 15, Makarska, tel. in the valley is reminiscent of Lourdes, the miraculous Mar-
(+385-21) 67 95 15, Open 07:00 ian shrine in France, which is probably why in 1908 Bishop
- 09:00, 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 18:30. July, August Juraj Carić founded the Vepric shrine. It has a little grotto
Open 07:00 - 21:00. similar to the one where Our Lady appeared to the young
girl Bernardette Soubirous in 1858. Fully equipped for the
Drvenik and Makarska Ferry Ports large numbers of pilgrims that flock here, the shrine has
From Makarska, you can travel to Sumartin on the is- a chapel, an altar, confessionals, stations of the cross and
land of Brač, while to get to Hvar island (Sućuraj) you paths for processions as well as buildings for retreats and
need to travel south to Drvenik. For taxi transfers to the pastoral staff that work here. If you’d like to enjoy a few
and from the ferry ports, check out www.connecto- moments of quiet contemplation in the lovely park here you might best avoid the main feast days of 11 February,
25 March, 15 August and 7-8 September.
54 Split In Your Pocket
Top Places To Shop


An interview with Diana Voytenko - Owner

SIYP: Could you tell us more about Namfleg Watches

and Jewellery?
Diana: Namfleg is the continuation of the tradition of the
famous jeweller Fabergé. The concept was developed in
the same great country, Russia, and grew into an interna-
tional brand based in Zürich. The inspiration which started
with antique enamelled watches gave rise to the brand
with everything you see in our shops today. The greater
part is produced in Russia, and the watches in Switzerland.
Some of the collection is made onsite in the countries
where our shops are located.

SIYP: What makes Namfleg jewellery and watches

Diana: Enamelled jewellery has a lifetime guarantee. Each
piece is a work of art whose creation by hand requires a
special kind of experience. The watches’ handmade dials are
made in strictly limited quantities. We are unique and special
in the world for creating dials from Florentine mosaic. They
are made from a great many tiny, thin pieces of stone joined
together to create a unique picture that’s hard to describe in
words. You have to see it, to hold it in your hands. The watch
radiates the energy of beauty and distinctiveness.

SIYP: What would you highlight from the Spring /

Summer 2019 collection of jewellery and watches?
Diana: All of the collections are beautiful and special. It’s im-
possible to highlight anything in particular. There are so many
designs that everyone can find a piece to fall in love with.

SIYP: What awaits us in the Autumn collection, any-

thing new?
Diana: I am particularly fond of the mother and child collec-
tion because I created it. My idea was to create the ideal gift
for every woman during her pregnancy because it holds the
miracle of the life she is creating. I created the ideal gift for
that time –a two-part pendant with one part representing
the mother and the other the child. Once the child has been
born the mother can remove the little tabwhich says “Place
picture here” and can put it on the child’s cot or pram. In this
way she gives some of her energy to, connects with and pro-
tects her child. This is an ideal gift for any woman, particularly
expectant mothers and mothers with small children. This is
something which radiates the miracle of love. Summer 2019 55
Top Places To Shop
Atelier Perajica
This fantastic little atelier is a wonderful place to get lost
in your thoughts or to pick up something unique as a
gift. Right on the Peristyle in Split’s ancient core, three
generations of photographers have kept their family stu-
dio here, amassing an unparalleled photo-documentary
of Split nostalgic and modern. The current owner Ana
has some unusual creations including photos printed
on canvas and fringed with handmade lace: voilà! Drinks
mats! A functional keepsake that’s cool. There’s also a
wonderful collection of photos of all sizes of Croatian
artisan lace, including the UNESCO-listed agave lace
made by nuns on Hvar island, and another featuring
treasures from the deep such as sponges, seahorses and Croata Archives
coral.QJ‑2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 46 46, www. Open 10:00-15:00, Sat 10:00-
14:00. Closed Sun. A City Center one
City Centre one offers numerous stores and entertain-
Break Time - Nautical Bracelets ment at your fingertips, including clothing, footwear, ac-
For an exceptional souvenir from Split you have to visit this cessories & jewelry, and home accessories. There are also
jewellery shop of a different kind. Both Mirela and Ionut tons of cafes and restaurants for when you need to take a
have come from abroad and followed their dream in creat- break from shopping, as well as a Cineplexx Cinema, Go-
ing handcrafted super cool necklaces, bracelets, key rings kart Arena and a playroom for kids.QVukovarska 207, tel.
and other bibs and bobs that feature nautical icons such as (+385-21) 51 01 30, Open 09:00
mini anchors and compasses, all of which are waterproof. - 21:00. From June Open 09:00 - 22:00.
You’ve got to see to believe these great accessories! Also
at Zadarska 1. Open 10:00 - 22:00.QI‑2, Trogirska 8, tel. Croata
(+385-) 097 681 39 77, Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a
Open 10:00-20:00. store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and
more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts sev-
eral entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that
much more special. Croata’s shops in Dubrovnik and Split
also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended to show-
case local heritage. Also at Mihovilova širina 7 (Voćni trg).
QI‑2, Krešimirova 11 (Peristil), tel. (+385-21) 58 25 28, Open 08:00-21:00. A

A wide variety of juices and other beverages offered, of
which the most famous is produced by the brand, ‘Pipi.’QI‑2,
Ulica Bana Josipa Jelačića 13,
Open 08:00-21:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-22:00.

Dancing Bear
Dancing Bear is an exclusive record company in Croatia
that represents numerous artists, such as Zinedine Zidane,
Cold Snap, Đani Stipaničev, Meri Cetinić, Tutti Frutti and
many more. Their stores offer many records featuring lo-
cal and international artists.QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel.
(+385-21) 34 43 09, Open 08:30-
20:30, Sun 09:00-14:00. A

Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag.
It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised
cheeses.QD‑3, Stari Pazar, Nathodnik bb, tel. (+385-
21) 27 42 59, Open 07:00-20:00, Sun
08:00-13:00. A
56 Split In Your Pocket
Top Places To Shop

Havana Cigar Shop workshop in 1903. The family trade was passed on from
A special shop with a wide selection of Cuban, Dominican, generation to generation and in 2008, this extraordinary
Nicaraguan and other premium cigars, pipes, lighters, hu- family turned the ancient workshop into an art gallery,
midors, cigar accessories and an admirable range of exclu- which includes both workshops and studios. Six years
sive alcoholic beverages. Furthermore, a wide selection of later they opened up a gallery in the center of Split. Their
men’s gifts for any occasion is waiting for you. gallery contains unique silver jewelry created by Ida, sculp-
 QI‑2, Zadarska 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 97, www.havana- tures using white Brač stone by Lovre and oil paintings by Open 09:00-21:00; closed Sun. A­J Dina.QD‑2, Bribirska 10, tel. (+385-) 098 70 19 03, www. Open 09:00-13:30,16:00-20:00, Sat
Jakšić Gallery 09:00-13:30. Closed Sun. A
The gallery is run by the Jakšić family, from Donji Humac, a
village located on the island of Brač. The owner and father, Jaman Art Centar
Dražen, is a known stonemasonry, the mother Ida Stipčić Danijel Jaman is an academic painter from Split. His works
Jakšić, a fashion designer, their son Lovre, an academic can be seen in his gallery in Šubićeva 3 and the  JAMAN
sculptor and their daughter Dina has a doctoral degree art center at Dobrić 14. The design of the gallery brings
in arts. Their ancestors created the first stonemasonry in lots of natural light which aids in intensifying displayed
images. The approach here is based on current trends in
‘New Pop-Art’ which focuses on using heightened colours
when portraying subjects on pictures such as phones, NY
registration plates, vinyl panels, chains… Also at Šubićeva
3, I-2.QI‑2, Dobrić 14, tel. (+385-21) 28 01 28/(+385-) 098
32 27 19, Open 10:00-23:00. A

Koza unikati
The word koza means ‘goat’, a symbol of the Croatian re-
gion of Istria, and this family business has it as their logo.
The Zoričić family create, design and produce beautiful
and timeless male and female first-class leather bags, wal-
lets, purses and belts. All materials are natural and some of
the products are made on the classic ‘Singer sewing ma-
chine’ and without electricity. It doesn’t get much more
authentic than that!QI‑2, Zadarska ulica 6, tel. (+385-)
099 253 14 99. Open 09.30-21:30; Sun 10:00-14:00. A

Shoe boutique with exquisite, attention to detail hand-
made Croatian design high-heeled shoes proven to be
the winning formula for that special occasion.QI‑2, Dom-
aldova 5, Open 09:00-21:00; closed
Sun. From June 15 Open 09:00 - 21:00. A

Original Croatian chocolate spreads, pralines and choco-
late with extras flavours and nuts such as cinnamon, laven-
der or almonds are what makes these so special. And deli-
58 Split In Your Pocket
Top Places To Shop
cious, may we add!QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel. (+385-21) Strossmayer Park (Đardin)
35 53 84/(+385-) 091 210 88 89, Open You never know what you can find but by attending this
08:30-20:30; Sun 08:30-14:00. A flea market it gives visitors a real atmosphere of Split’s in-
habitants and how they breathe and sleep. See from old
Namfleg Watches & Jewelry objects, coins, ornaments, books, magazines and other
Specialising in the cloisonné technique, this boutique has rare things that are up for sale. The fair becomes especially
a workshop and furnace allowing you to see how the jew- popular and lively during the summer months, when the
ellery is worked into delicate metal compartments which city is flooded with tourists from all over the world.QO-
are filled with vividly-coloured enamel powder and fired pen 08:00 - 20:00.
and polished to a glassy lustre. Split’s boutique has a spe-
cial collection featuring motifs inspired by the city.QI‑2, Think Pink
Ulica Marka Marulića 3, tel. (+385-21) 29 24 43, www. One of Split’s concept stores which opened in 2004 and Open 09:00-22:00. A­J where you can find interesting and original clothes, shoes
and jewellery, all made by Croatian designers. Fashion at
Nered its best! Also at (J-2) Marulićeva 1, Open 09:00 - 22:30.QI‑2,
Chic antique! Selection of wonderful decorative items Zadarska 8, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 26. Open 09:00 - 22:00.
from ceramics, jewellery, bags , greeting cards, stationery From July 15 Open 09:00 - 23:00. A­J
and hundreds of other products all made by designers
and artisans from Croatia.QJ‑2, Dominisova 2, tel. (+385- TRI store
) 099 194 92 48, Open 09:00- TRI is a newly opened store at Zadar Street, which has
21:00. A the task of supporting young local designers. The offer
consists of hand-printed t-shirts and some of the more
Oleoteka Uje demanding tulle dresses. The emphasis is on Croatian
Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils, product; simple, bearable, high quality and affordable to
jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s all. Brands currently available include Levin Coco, IssaArts
all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it, and Fairytulle.  QI‑2, Zadarska 5, tel. (+385-) 099 253 14
‘olive oil’. Also at (I-2) Šubićeva 6, Open 09:00 - 22:00.QJ‑2, 99. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-14:00.
Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 19, Open
09:00 - 21:00. June Open 09:00 - 22:00. From July Open
09:00 - 23:00. A

Authentic Croatian Fanta! That is the only way to describe
this tasty, bubbly carbonated soft drink which has marked
its 80th production anniversary in Croatia. With its long
history and unforgettable TV adverts from the 80’s, Pipi
has become one of the legendary beverages of Croatia,
and especially the Dalmatian region.QD‑2, P.I.Čajkovskog
1, tel. (+385-) 091 403 33 54/(+385-) 091 411 22 44, Open 08:00-21:00, Fri, Sat
08:00-22:00. Closed Sun. A

The authentic store perfect for that take home memoir
souvenir! Popular items include handcrafted glass, jewel-
lery made of Brač stone, Adriatic shellfish, and Istrian bull
horns just to name a few.QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 2, tel.
(+385-21) 49 09 30/(+385-) 091 456 95 45. Open 09:00 -
21:00. June - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. A

Split Tea House

Tea lovers choose from over 240 different world teas
weather for health, diet, beauty, or complexion. There is
green tea, yellow tea, white and black tea, oolong tea etc.
Tea pots and products are available and all at affordable
prices.QI‑2, Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 58, Open 08:30-21:00; Sat 08:30-
15:00; closed Sun. A Summer 2019 59
Arrival & Getting Around

Panoramic summer cityscape of old city Split, Photo by shutterstock

By boat strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little

Split’s ferry port isn’t a bad place to make the transition life vest. The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an
from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transporta- hour and the trip to Vis takes about two and a half hours.
tion and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to On all ferries, you’ll find bars where you can buy some
see policemen strolling around, don’t be disturbed: those snacks and a drink or two.
are just the customs officers that work at the office located
in the port. The toilet near the back of the port operates Jadrolinija
around the clock. Changing currency: There are at least Jadrolinija caters for public transportation towards the
four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the islands of Brač, Hvar, Vis and Šolta by ferries (will take
building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during cars) or catamarans (foot passengers only). Tickets for lo-
their working hours. Calling home: There are two public cal catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line
phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online.
from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the sta- For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in
tion. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Tra- advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to
jektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around travelling.QD‑3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83 33,
town. Check the schedule posted inside the stop to find Open 05:30-00:00. From July Open
the information you need. Make a left out of the port and 00:00 - 24:00.
a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; con-
tinue farther and you’ll reach the old town in about five Kapetan Luka, Krilo
minutes. Krilo catamaran running to Vis island and Dubrovnik via
Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet. Check sailing schedule here.
the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like QGat Sv Petra, tel. (+385-21) 64 54 76,
Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. Open 06:00-21:00. J
For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island
you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something MSC Krstarenja
like this: 33 - 60kn per person and 160 - 530kn for cars. Mo- SNAV agent runs the Split–Ancona ferry line.QD‑3, Gat
torcycles will cost you 70 - 147kn and bicycles 38 - 62kn. Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 52, www.msckrstarenja.
Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also com. Open 08:00-20:00.
60 Split In Your Pocket
Arrival & Getting Around
By bus route 6) to Bosiljevo, where you’ll see signs for the A - 1,
Split’s bus station is fairly small but has everything you need to which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit la-
make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open 00:00 - 24:00) beled Dugopolje.
3kn can be found inside the station, along with the domestic
and international ticket windows and an information desk. The
domestic ticket window offers a twenty-four hour service By plane
and the information desk operates from 00:00 - 24:00. The Split’s airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but quite
international ticket office operates 06:00 - 22:00. The red pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any questions
and blue posters on the window of the international ticket of- upon arriving can be directed to the nice people at the in-
fice list the international arrivals and departures. Left luggage: formation desk, which is open from 05:15 - 23:00. Follow
A left luggage point (open 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the the steps leading down from the main hall to find a toilet
street; turn left out of the station and drop off your bags for a and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also be found by
flat rate of 5kn per hour, per piece of luggage, every next hour heading upstairs from the main hall. Changing currency:
you pay 1.5kn. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of Splitska Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) has an exchange office
the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for and it can be found at the far end of the main hall. There
the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Tra- are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling home: You can
jektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town purchase a phone card at the newsstand (open according to
and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call cent- flight times). There are public phones in two locations: first, in
ers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in the main hall next to the Internet point (which offers free In-
front of the bus station. ternet, incidentally!); and second, upstairs between the two
doors leading to the men’s and women’s toilets.
Main bus station Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a num-
(Autobusni kolodvor Split) ber of car rental agencies operating in the main hall. Other-
If you’re planning a return trip to a domestic destination, wise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Pleso prijevoz air-
make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as port bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and
return tickets usually require you to travel with the same shouldn’t cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus No 37
company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be stops just in front of the airport at twenty-minute intervals
travelling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with
will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sickness- tickets costing 17kn one-way; cross the street and wait at the
inducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can stop there. Pleso prijevoz buses run according to the arrival
affect the length of your trip.QJ‑3, Obala kneza Doma- times of flights and drop you at the main bus station, just
goja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/(+385-21) 32 91 99, next to the old town for 30kn.
Split Airport-Kaštela
(Zračna luka Split-Kaštela)
By car QCesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel.
From Zagreb (+385-21) 20 35 07/(+385-21) 20 35 08, fax (+385-21) 20
So you have your own wheels and you’d like to know the 34 22,
easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The fast-
est and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to use Brač Airport ((Zračna luka Brač))
the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E - 65 on in- Location:  14km away from Bol and 30km from Supetar.
ternational road maps and as A - 1 inside Croatia. The route QGornji Humac 145, 21414 Gornji Humac, tel. (+385-21)
on the A - 1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres 55 97 11, Open 08:00-16:00; Sat
long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving 08:00-22:00. From June Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 -
you of 181 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
you’re getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and
that’s that!
From Slovenia By train
Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to The train station has very few amenities, save for the coin-
do is follow highway E - 70 to Zagreb, then hit the A - 1 and operated storage lockers that can be accessed during the
keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split. station’s working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. The lockers
From Italy have instructions in English. Getting to town: As it’s on the
Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions, same side of the street, the directions for getting around
nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E - 70 motorway to are the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually
Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and route lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead
number E - 61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia and you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and
enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E - 61, which will Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to
take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E - 65 (local whisk you away directly in front of the train station. Summer 2019 61
Arrival & Getting Around
one you might catch a fine of 75kn (Zone 1), 48kn (Zone
2, 3) and 36kn (Zone 4). Aside from zoned street parking,
another option for parking in Split is guarded parking areas,
which vary in price per hour from 5 to 10kn depending on
your proximity to the centre. So, if you’re parking near the
Riva, you can bet on a maximum 10kn charge for the first
hour and 15kn per hour thereafter. Most of the lots operate
around the clock.

Promet Split
QD‑2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+385-21) 48 10 97, www.
Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Main train station Public transport

Frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect to Public transport in Split is organised by Promet Split bus-
a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb takes es. There are day bus lines 1 through 18, 21 and 22, that run
about eight hours. If you happen to be leaving on a night from 05:00 to 23:00, and three night lines (23,39, and 40)
train from Zagreb at 23:00 or a night train from Split at running Fridays and Saturdays only. Maps and schedules
21:43, there’s one more really handy service offered at the for each line can be found at their respective stops. Tick-
train station. If you have a car and don’t feel like driving at ets can be purchased on the bus for 11kn or from Promet
night, you can load your vehicle onto the train and collect Split kiosks near each bus stop for 9kn. If you’re trying to
it at your destination for a fee of 101kn, plus the price of beat the system and chance it without a ticket, the pen-
a passenger ticket.QJ‑3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. alty when caught (and you most certainly will be, buddy!)
(+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, is 70kn. Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is good
for one trip anywhere in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the
main station from which you can catch buses for Trogir,
Parking Omiš, the airport, and other destinations outside of Split.
There are four parking zones and prices range from 3 – 6kn/ Sukoišanska’s ticket office operates from 06:30 to 20:00 on
hour depending on the zone and time. In Zone 1 parking weekdays, 06:30 to 12:00 on Saturdays, and is closed on
is payable from Mon - Fri 06:30 – 21:30, Sat 07:00 - 14:00 Sunday. To contact the Sukoišanska station dial (+385-21)
and in Zones 2, 3, and 4 from Mon - Fri 07:00 – 19:00, Sat 48 06 56. For general information regarding bus services
07:00 - 14:00. You can also pay using your mobile for the call (+385-21) 40 79 01.
same price. However, be aware of the time, since if you
are caught without a ticket when you’re supposed to have Promet Split
QE‑1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. (+385-21) 40 78 88, www.
tourist information
Tourist Information Centre Split Metro
Tourist information centre at Peristil.QJ‑2, Peristil Train: The metro starts running at 06:00.
bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06, Relation: Split - Split Suburbs and return.
Open 08:00-21:00. Stops between the mentioned relations: none.
Number of routes anticipated: 58 Split - Split Suburb, 58
Tourist Information Centre Split Suburb - Split
Tourist Information Centre at Riva.QD‑3, Obala Total number of rides: 108
Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9, tel. (+385-21) The metro will operate daily from 06:00 to 21:45.
36 00 66, Open 08:00-21:00.

Split Tourist Board Taxi

QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9, The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 060 850 850 or if you
tel. (+385-21) 34 86 00, Open own a Croatian Vip or T-Com sim card call 1777. If you’re
08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. with Tele 2, dial (021-1777). The starting fee for a taxi trip is
20kn, with a 10kn fee added per kilometre and 3kn added
Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board per each piece of luggage and 100kn per hour for waiting.
QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, tel. (+385-21) 49 There is no additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis
00 32/(+385-21) 49 00 33, Open wait in front of most major hotels, Firule and Križina hos-
08:00-16:00. Closed Sun, Sat. pitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station and near
the Riva.
62 Split In Your Pocket
Split Basics
Customs Roads
There are no custom limits between member states or tax When behind the wheel drivers must always have their
return. For other non-member states we recommend you driving licence, traffic licence and green card with
to follow info at them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of
a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum
blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The
Disabled travellers speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph
shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live
still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car longer.
parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at
least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping cen-
tres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new Smoking
buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-
expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to café culture in which people tend to socialise out-
most buildings. If you're planning to visit, we suggest you doors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and
inquire about your destination in relation to these matters drinking establishments are more packed than usual.
and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opt-
arrival as accessible as possible. ing for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in
all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants
where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at
Electricity even the most popular eateries if you're prepared to
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the move inside.
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical
Croatian visa policy is fully compliant with the European
Money Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of
There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well states that need visas to enter other EU member states
as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours will need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make
a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if
on you. If you're planning a trip to one of the islands in you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cit-
the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the ies throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a
amount of cash you think you'll need for the trip, as find- visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing
ing places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem. through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border
without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able
to enter Croatia.
Public Toilets
When you gotta go, you gotta go! Split has several public
toilets most of which are clean, tidy and in very good con- Water
dition. They are located on King Tomislav Street (I-2), the Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
Tourist Palace (J-3), at the Matejuška little bay area (H-
3) close to the Riva, whilst the toilet on Nepotova Street
(J-2) is equipped with facilities for the disabled. Prices are When things go wrong
around 4kn or 0.50€. Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Split significantly
lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep
your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an
emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emer-
gency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to
police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city
district, in case you were involved in an accident or were
arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In
that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main
building for ER is located in Firule Hospital in Spinčićeva
1 (E-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of
an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987,
Photo by Višnja Arambašić and as for accidents on the sea call (+385-) 195. Summer 2019 63
1 Restaurant Nightlife

Split Map Legend

Info Centre Market

Church Bus Station

Official Building Train Station

Museum Ferry Line

2 Šetalište Marina Tataglije Šetalište

na Ta taglije Šetalište M

Lu č
Post Office
i ca ul.
arina Ta
Šetalište Marina Tataglij

Beach Public Toilet Šetališ

a rin Park Monument
š te M

Še trogasn V at rogasni p



Panoramic View

ije M Šet arina Tatagl ije
agl t e ališ te M
Tat Šetalište M ališ asni put Vatr
na arin Š Vatrog

M a Ta taglije


nski put
Marjan Hill Vidilic

šte rja ki put

Ma M arjans

Viewpoint -

Marja Velika Vidilica



Marangunićevo šetalište St. Jeronim gu

ni p ut
alište Maran Ma
Our Lady of
eštrovića unić
šte Ivana M
Viewpoint - Vidilica
Šetalište Bethlehem Church e vo
Ivana š eta
Meš li
tro št e
vić o še tališt
a ićev
nićevo šetalište M ara
Our Lady of Seven Mar angu
Sorrows Church
Šetališ Ulic
te Iv a U
ana Fran
M aS
up ila Ul. Po Ul. P od k osom
d ko


a Mih
vić a

Ulica Antu
Ulica U

Frana Su lica Antuna M iha


Še pila
ka ulica

tali Čiovska ulic

šte a Ulica Frana Sup
Iv ila

an a
M eštrov Šetalište Ivana Meštr

Kašljuni ić a ovića Drven



Še Meštrović
Ulica Blaža

š te Gallery Museu
Iva na Croa
Meštrovića Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića Archeo
Church of the
Holy Cross

S tinic
e ul.

o še



Stinice l.
pa vla
Put Su

Put Supavla Put Supa

Office S

Put Su

Shopping St. Anthony

Put Su

ice u
i ća
Nike Store,

Ulica M ik e

Sutroičin put

Sport & Moda Kids Shop


Joker Centar







r an

Ulica Hrvatske morna Admiral


e mornarice rice
Ul. Hrvatsk Casino

a ul.

Put Sk




a An



ka ul. Sl

te Starčevića

kalic ob

Put S


Ul. Lju


Table ul.








Table ul.







iće ul

a Zrin





ćva ul ob


Planči od
Ul. Ante


va ul.

Ulica Iv

Lučiće ul

Spinut .

ka ulic
a ulica

Archeological Lovret


ska ulic
a Rend

ulica Lovret




a va
i šte ita Hrv
Ul. lokT st aki


Ulica Bleiburških ž
Nik h
ole rsća is
a ul.

Tes kole T n
Ulica Ante

Ulica Ni ulića Ulica Ivana Gundulića sk


nd Convent of the Ulica Dujma Mik ic


a Antuna Gustava Matoša

Ber is


ka ul
Ulic Sisters of Mercy

aA Iva M ažu

Spi nu

of St. Vincent
la v

Ul. fra Bonina ia ranić


e Marin Tatagli n

aG evo

de Paul

a usta šetališ

va Mat Bri
tska ul.

Ma oša Ul. Jerolima Kavanji Manđer birs ka ulica te


ča To
nda Ulica Antuna Gustava na ova

lins ul ica

ki p


aćk Bols
Ulica Ljudevit a ulica Vukovars ka ulica
a Gaja Ul. Petra ka ulic

Man a

Ul. L
Ulica Zrin


da lins

ki p

u t Pod



š ka ul
V uk

sk ul.

s ki put ovarska


Sla v




ki p

u lica

Livanjska ulica



Ulica A. H

Puntarska ul


n i put bašića

Monastery and Church




of Our Lady of Health


Istarska ulica

a Ul. Franje Račko


ulic sk g
ga st

Marjanski pu


jsk au


z Vla


Ma tošića ul.

t ul. lic


s Bis
Marjan ki put
tk a Nodila

nt -


dm vić a
nska me Reljko

ni Matije


ta ulic Ul. A.



va Ulica
Ul. Na



ka uli





zora va ulica




K riže


. i lićeva Uli ca Kneza Višeslava



Ul. Lava





Sv. Mikula

A ugusta Šenoe




j Sv. M


a rije
ko Je Dom
g Narod Glagoljaška ulica

ni tr va
Renića ul.
e njs ka ulica


Sen g a
jska u ka ul.

l. Zadars Vidović Gallery

u l.



ulica Špe run ul.

O. h
Dob St. Dominik Ro Croatian
r ić
Church and ko v

rv. n Vestibul a ulic

i na

Šet Maritime Museum


te a a rod a

lište Pal min a u


P n og Ulica Vr

Luk zo v dolac

p rep


otić Viewpoint - oro Se


Ul. St
a da ve Jesenička ul.

ari pa
rov a

Prva vidilica
ka ul.

l. Ra

Church of . So lurat ua ul. du

a ul
ni ca u

St. Nicholas l.



Ul. Pod kos

Traveler r as
Zlod rina p





Marasovića ul.
ća ira

aš i Ulica

Ul.Pod im
la K an Kr

a alja Z
kosom Br
rt o

ul. voni

Ul. A. M
za au
Ba anac

Ulica ović e lica

na M ca až la
ihano Uli Dr O
vića St. Clare's
Convent City


Put Me j
Breg o


šte B

vića Main Train
um of Ulica Milana Bego

i ra




ments Šetali HZZO upca

šte Iv atije G

ana M Ulica M



te P tra Prerado vi

trovića City Main Bus




sk n i Ul. Gat Sv. Duje #bolimepipi
i la Balu

pu va beach

Ulica U

Š et




Ka liniće te


vp Bačvice



Sustip Club



pu Obala k n

St. Stephen's Park Pomoraca

under the Pines
Sarajevska ul.


e luk


il js
Kop a ul


a ul.
ili c Dr


Pu t Sje



Solinskaul .

Kopilica ul.

ska ul
Kopilica Mostar

v ačka ovačka ul.

ego . Herceg

a ul.
Hercegovačka ul. Hercegovačka ul.
Hercegovačka ul.



Ul. Grad
pu iščanskih
ć a Hrvata
114. Briga

Church of
Ulica Domovinskog rata St. Matthew
og rata Ulica Domovinskog rata
insk dinska ul.
Ulica Domo
vinskog rat Nike Store &
r až a
Convers shop

The Church Ulica Domo

vin skog rata Mall of Split
Šibenska ul. of St. Luke
Šibenska ul. Ši benska ul.
a ul. Mosećka ul.
Mosećka u l.
Kman Mosećka ul.
Va ra ž

Mosećka ul. Mose a

ć ka ul. vs ka ulic
nska Velebitska ul Klje u l. ul.

ul. . ka
ka ul. ska
ul. seć ulic

Bjelova lebit Mo ka

Ve Ul. ele V rs


Petrinjska ul. Ul. Vj V

bit go



ek oslava Pa slav ska Za

ul. rač a aP
ka K

ka ča

a Nerna ov


rlo rda ca

va ka

čka ul.

Vel e že Ul. AntunaGo

Krle Ul. M

bits ka ul. ul. sla

va irosl Ve Z up to
bitska Ulica Matije Iva iro
a va K leb ina a
Vele nić a rleže Ul.
M ul.

U l. Pavla Rittera iro its


V itezovi sla
ul. e

nke ul.
Iločka Grg Novak ul


Iloč ca a .



Mišina ul.



a Uli ce Grge Novaka

Bol Pe voj Ane Roje






The Church of Studinova ul.




Ul. Miroslava K

St. Andrew
ačka ul


fra Grge Martića

Ul. ul.
ska ul.


evo šetalište Su ćidar

Mažuranić r ul.



ul. s ka ul.
Plokite Green Market Sućidar


Plokite Ul. Vink
rska u

ka ul
a D raganje
vo šetalište

Vukova Vrh Viso


Mažuraniće ke


Valp ića
Ul. Drag e Ivanišev ulica





a Vele ns

ka ulic

rs bits ka





o ls
eva ul.

Vukovarska ul. Vrančić ul.


ul .



a Stepinca

ul. Vuko Cv ite Fis
Vukovarska ulica ul.
a Visoka u
retova ok l .

inića Je
R. Katal Vis



Ul. Nikole Tavelića


Ul. Ju

ića s ke

or at

e Hrv

izg Matic ts

Ulica k


aŠ a
rja Šizg

e Hrvatske

urj Matic ul.



aJ Ulica



a ri n a
Ul. M



ske ces



rvat ka
ice H ljič


imira Kr
Ulica ja Do
brile c Po
ja Strah aka Ul. Jur eča

Ul. Silvi
te Od čac Smr

rs kroz
U l. K Ulica
kroz S


atice H
Ulica M Škrape ul.
Ulica Matice Hrvats kroz S
mrdeč ta

Ulica Julija Klović Ulica ul.

ka ulova

l. Ul. ndop
Blatin e u Br una
Polj ič Papa

Osječka ul.


st a

alm ul. a ka ce

imić Poljič
nka Š
Osječka ul.

Krstuloviće a Bra ta
va ul. Uli ca Antun ka ulic
a Šolta
nska Hrv

Šolta liških

sta u lica o
ka ce Ul. M
Uica B

š ka ulica Poljič
Mitnička ul.

un ovića
ka Šim


a Ul. Din
a cest Trsten
Ulica J

a Zvonimira

Poljičk ik
ka ul. Šimić

Šoltans jube

Trs Ul . L
Put iza nov

ten Ulic
ik a Iva
na jub e Šimića
Gupca Marvie Hotel pl. Ul. L
Matije ic a ul. Zajc
Lazar Radison Blu
e bolnice

ch of Ulica & Health a

nice Resort ul.


ur bol ka
y of Brač



šana in čić adošev


Brač ka ul . Put R



ulic evc a
va ulica


a Ivana P
Ra Šetalište

Gospini Trstenik

Ka štela n

Ul. avla II.


T heo ca

dorea šev an
Roo sevel ado
ta ište
Pu t R

. I. Gorana



a Ivana Pavla II.


Ul. Petr Iv pl.

a Hektorov Ulica an a

a dovića irula č ićev Trstenik I vana Pavla II.
Put F Spin ali
Put F irula Še t



Ul. Uval a Z

Sre dm anušk


Mrče K ra ić eva

l o va
lina lja To Ulica fra Lu
misla je Mar

Domili Kralja To


o va



Bi lan
L eština va Church of the

of Fine Arts

Holy Spirit
Nig Pistura Kralja
e ro Tomisla
a ulica va va
Križev eza Višes lava
a Cosmijeva Ul ica kn
T r ogirsk Kr u ži ćeva
Chapel Grgur Ninski Strossmayerov
St. Sava N elipić a perivoj



ajst Zlatna


Kraj sv or a
. Marije Game Vrata ka


T vr tk o va
j a ač

Kraj sv. Marije of Thrones

D o m a ldova


e (Peškarija) gr a

Iza lože



Sinov čića


va A
Alliance St. Rocco

Trg Republike


Fraincaise Game


Martinjski prolaz

a Je

Priora Petra
Narodni Trg

M of Thrones Carrarina Ilirska

Dom poljana



Jer in
Zadarsk Split City


Ispo Museum

Morpurgova du

Ban a
ni trg

D obrić

t ova

lić ev

ć irov

a R ok o va


Šperun Game

Jupiterov St Dominus
of Cathedral
Oba hram
la Hrv Thrones Peristil
atsk Trg Mihovilova Vestibul

og širina
n Ilirsk

Stari Pa zar
u n ica

aro e ak
dno ade
a čk

gp mije

re b
ri ć

oda Hrvo
n čića Dvo

P et

Za g


Al je Iza V St. Dominic’s
Du pla

šijin estib Game

a ula Church
Uvala of Thrones 1
Ethnographic The Cellars
Matejuška Museum S of Diocletian’s Palace
Port off eve
ro va
Split Ra
n ica
Matejuška Green Market

(Pazar) imiro

e va
no v


bu č a


Natural History
K uk





Split Map Legend

Zvi z

la L
D v or nik



a k ra
Info Centre Market lj a
Jadrolinija Pothodnik Zv o
n imir
Church Ferry Line Ob ala Lazareta Bishop’s

Gat Sv.

Museum Parking Nikole

p ol

Theatre Public Toilet Ulica
to g

Park Game of Thrones
K n in


– Sp

Zl o

ć a uli


la Kn


a po

a no


Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board
t/f: +385 (0)21 490 036



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