SAMPLING AND PATTERN MAKING DEPARTMENT

ACTIVITIES :
 This department is basically responsible for developing the patterns and various samples, which may vary from buyer to buyer.  It is the most important aspect of business. Hence, utmost care must be taken to do an excellent job in sampling.  It is the department to develop the pattern for the style based on the measurements and style details given in the spec sheet provided by the buyer.  Shrinkage and shade test is done in the testing laboratory .The pattern is then altered according to the shrinkage of the fabric.  Patterns are developed through CAD by the pattern master, and this plays an important role in determining the orders.  All the samples made by the department are approved by the merchandizer or the buyer.  Samples, must be made in time and quality standards must be abided by while due care should be taken to keep commercial angle in mind. GSM/ colors/ prints/ labeling etc should be as specified and specific of the instructions received from the buyer in development of new samples.  Comments are given in by the buyer to the merchandiser,and sampling department will make the necessary changes accordingly,to meet the buyers requirements and obtain approval.  This department has its own SNLS, DNLS, fusing, flat lock, over lock machines  Each operator is responsible of making a whole sample garment by themselves.

FLOW PROCESS : RECQUISITION SHEET (Tech pack.trimdetails.fabric shrinkage) UNCONFIRMED ORDERS CONFIRMED ORDERS APPROXIMATE SHRINKAGE ADDED ON PATTERN CPT OF SAMPLE YARDAGE.TEST SHRINKAGE 50x COSTING CONSUMPTION + MINIMARKER DEVELOPED MAKE PATTERN PROTO/FIT DEVELOPMENT SAMPLES / WASH SAMPLES QC CHECK A .wash fabric details.

A SALESMAN SAMPLE (SMS) / PHOTOSHOOT BULK FABRIC SHRINKAGE REPORT FROM TESTING LAB PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE QC CHECK SIZE SET QC CHECK SUBMIT FOR BUYER APPROVAL PATTERN CHECK START BULK .

This is a sample made by the manufacturer that reflects the styling features. which is sent to mail order and catalogue houses. The buyer takes its photograph to enable the customer to get an idea about the merchandise. fabric.arecquisition sheet is received and trim details and fabric swatch . This may not be in the actual raw material and is just an interpretation of ideas.   Fit sample: This sample is an actual representation of the measurements provided by the buyer to check the fit of the garment as the name suggests.  Size set: In the size set. Photo sample: This garment. The size set samples will be stitched only after the confirmation of the order. color. quality and finishing should be perfect as specified in the spec sheet. DETAILS OF SAMPLES :  Development sample: Samples developed for a particular buyer based on his “sample order sheet” are treated as “Development Samples”.For size set a trim card is received from the concerned merchant. In this sample the measurement. combination.  Pre production sample: The PP sample is made for all sizes with actual fabrics and trims. style.  Proto/ Counter sample: This is developed according to the indications sent by the buyer. This is mainly for the purpose of end product’s production . Generally most of the specifications are provided by the buyer but can also be given by the design department of the company for their in house designs.  For making every sample. is made in actual raw materials with the correct specifications. the garments are stitched in each size. A Counter Sample may have resulted from a request made by Chico’s or may have originated from the vendor’s own product line or collection. After QC check if passes will be submitted to buyer for approval. trims and construction details. and if failed sample will be remade. It is done before the bulk production.

size. color and correct placement/size/quality of embellishments). a sample made by the manufacturer for a specific order that reflects the style ordered. The sample submitted must be suitable to fit on a live model. The garment must be made with approved bulk fabric (correct color. After final approval and receiving production order. therefore all measurements must be within tolerance and match construction. all thepatterns. Vendor’s suggestion for improved construction/quality/specs should be noted on the PP ID tag. reference garments and files containing specification sheet is sent to the Production Department. print and hand feel) and approved bulk trims (correct quality. PP TAG DOCUMENTS USED/RECORDS MAINTAINED :  Internal PO  Spec Sheet  Production File .study.

and the sheet is cut into individual cut components which are then placed on the top ply of the fabric lay to make a marker. except for some cases like check fabric. The marker planning done here is mainly through CAD. pocket bags. The cutting master determines the lay width and the lay length depending on the order quantity. The job of the pattern master in case of CAD marking is reduced as he does not have to check whether all the pattern parts are placed and whether all the notches are properly marked. manual marking is carried out for fabrics with checks. In case of manual marking the pattern pieces are developed through CAD. CAD marking is usually more efficient than manual marking. styling of the garment and the amount of the fabric. through trial and error methods for optimum marker efficiency and maximum fabric utilization with less waste. Marker Planning is done to utilize the minimum fabric while cutting the desired number of pieces from the lays.MARKER MAKING: Marker making is the process of developing the diagram consisting of all garment components in their required cut quantity and the required sizes which is then superposed on the top of a fabric lay (superposed fabric plies) as a guide for cutting these plies of fabric into the required component parts of the final garment. It can be done manually as well as through CAD. plotted on a sheet. and for fabrics having complicated designs. The plotted markers developed through CAD are placed on the lay to enable the cutting of the garment parts. . stripes those that are used for waistband interlining.

Features of the software:  Accelerate pattern design. AccuMark enables designers to apply their distinctive talents.        New functionality to easily create and edit darts All measurements update with pattern changes Improved annotation capability Multiple asymmetrical folds Grade pleats and merge pieces more easily More choices for turn back hems Modify grading on multiple points and pieces simultaneously  Easy Planning    Facilitates creation of simple cut plans Open models directly from AccuMark Explorer Plans the markers and generates orders automatically for maximum material utilization  Calculates model combinations based on the sizes.GERBER’S ACCUMARK CAD SOFTWARE It is the apparel industry's leading pattern design. quantities and fabric type in each marker   Submit orders to Batch to automate process Helpful to quickly calculate fabric usage . grading and marker making software. individual techniques and creativity in a computer-aided environment that offers all the flexibility of manual pattern making.

 Accelerate nesting. Easy Order   Create orders and process markers quickly and easily Experienced users can define order templates and select lay limit options for each piece  Easy Marking    Import fabric prints at actual scale. particularly with knit fabrics User configurable work area.  Accelerate the digitizing process by typing pattern piece data into a simple form in the AccuMark system rather than entering character by character at the digitizer . define repeats and use this information to match pattern pieces visually Enter fabric weight to calculate material costs more accurately. hot keys and tool bars.  AccuMark helps us to generate the most efficient nests to optimize material utilization and reduce material costs. including colors.

off-the-shelf HP inkjet cartridges. bond.1%. quality plotting. It boasts high productivity and performance at a low cost of ownership. with or without taking paper up onto a roll. Features:  Fast.2-meter-wide configuration. It includes solution to quickly transform hard patterns into digital format for use in CAD systems.  Low maintenance Gerber plotter uses proven HP inkjet technology and standard. The GERBER plotter plots at speeds up to 95-square-meters per hour at 300 dpi print resolution with an accuracy of +/. Choose to plot face-out or face-in. . Kraft paper and Mylar.GERBER PLOTTER and DIGITIZER: It is a high speed plotting system to plot and cut patterns. The system remotely monitors ink and paper usage and issues an alert when it detects low ink or paper levels.  Versatile The system plots on a variety of materials including recycled paper.0. The GERBER plotter is also available in a 2. The GERBER plotter offers state-of-the-art inkjet technology.

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