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  • History of the Permanent Wave

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    cornflake04
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    The document discusses the history of permanent waving from its origins in 1905 to modern techniques. It traces the development of machine perms using heat, the introduction of cold waving in the 1930s using chemicals instead of heat, and continued refinements to perms through the mid-20th century to reduce damage to hair and produce more natural curls. Today's perms often use acid waves which have a lower pH than traditional cold waves.

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    History of Hair Perms

    Original Title

    History of Perm

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    The document discusses the history of permanent waving from its origins in 1905 to modern techniques. It traces the development of machine perms using heat, the introduction of cold waving in the 1930s using chemicals instead of heat, and continued refinements to perms through the mid-20th century to reduce damage to hair and produce more natural curls. Today's perms often use acid waves which have a lower pH than traditional cold waves.

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    337 views17 pages

    History of the Permanent Wave

    Uploaded by

    cornflake04
    The document discusses the history of permanent waving from its origins in 1905 to modern techniques. It traces the development of machine perms using heat, the introduction of cold waving in the 1930s using chemicals instead of heat, and continued refinements to perms through the mid-20th century to reduce damage to hair and produce more natural curls. Today's perms often use acid waves which have a lower pH than traditional cold waves.

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    of 17

    Permanent Wave

    History of permanent waving


    History
    People have attempted permanent waving since
    Egyptians & Romans, but were not successful.
    It was not until the 20th century, in 1905, that three
    professional permanent wave methods
    introduced a new art & science in cosmetology
    Cold waving has almost become a specialty
    service because of the technical knowledge &
    practice it demands
    History
    1905 – first perm machine designed by
    Charles Nessler
    1906 introduced in London
    Machine permanent required electricity
    to heat large metal clamps that were placed
    over client’s hair
    Not efficient, too much equipment
    Oblong heating devices hung suspended
    by cords & wires from a chandelier-like
    structure
    History
     Women sitting underneath these contraptions had
    their hair covered with a chemical paste and wound
    around metal rods, starting from the scalp and
    working downward
     These units were heated during the perm process
     They were kept from touching the scalp by a complex
    system of counterbalancing weights, suspended from
    an overhead chandelier mounted on a stand
    History
     The tubes of the machine were then fitted
    over the rod, and the curl was electronically “
    baked in”
     1920’s the technique was modified
     Hair was now wrapped from the ends up to the
    scalp in a method called “ croquignole waving
     Created by Robert Bishinger, a beautician from
    Pittsburgh, PA
    History
     1930’s – came the cold wave and a new era in
    permanent waving
     Chemicals instead of heat were used to process the hair
     First cold waves took 6 – 8 hours for completion at room
    temperature
     Term ‘overnight’ wave became popular

     1932 first machineless permanent wave


     Originally designed by a hairdresser in Pennsylvania
     This design removed the risk of electrical burn or shock, and
    didn’t require the use of a bulky piece of machinery
     External heat was generated through a chemical process &
    preheated clamps
    History
     Soft, small pads containing an exothermic (heat
    producing) mixture were wound around hair
    strands
     Hot clamps kept the pad in place while the curl
    was processed
     1934-1st attempt w/out heat
     Original test chemical used was palmolive
    shaving soap
    1. Strand of hair was cut from scalp
    2. Saturated w/ shaving soap
    3. Wound around nail
    4. Placed in aluminum foil to keep from drying out
    5. 3 days later- unrolled & showed definite curl
    6. Curl retained even after shampoo
    History
     Next attempt
    1. Waving lotion for heat waving,w/out heating the
    lotion
    2. Chemicals in the waving lotion softened the hair
    3. Lasted 6-8 hours instead of 3 days
     1938, Arnold F.Willat – birth of cold waving
     Chemical lotion was sprayed directly onto set
    hair
     10 minutes time a client had a full head of curls
    History
     Willat found that during the treatment hair
    was hydrolyzed – the protein of the hair was
    chemically made to combine with water
    instead of simply getting wet.
     This process often caused many hair cells to
    break down & as a result the hair would
    break off when unrolled from the rod
     Cold wave lotion, because of its low
    temperature, was not nearly as damaging as
    the heated alternative
    History
     Women could undergo repeated cold wave
    perms with little or no damage to their hair
     The secret was not in the application of heat,
    but in the chemicals themselves
     1940 – first commercial perm
     1941 a woman undergoing a perm died
     Her death was attributed to absorption of
    ammonium sulfide
     FDA immediately took the sulfide lotion off the
    market
    History
     1941 – a substitute was needed quickly
     Thioglycolate appeared in the salons and worked
    just as well as its sulfide predecessor
     1948 FDA ruled that the new lotion was safe, and
    permanent waving enjoyed an even bigger surge
    of popularity
     1946 – salon owners became concerned
     Store shelves of home permanents appeared
     Campaigns were launched on the advantages of a
    professional perm
    History
     Early 1950’s – different strength per solutions
    appeared
     Additives became popular
     Placenta
     Mink oil
     Wheat germ

     1952 – on rod method in neutralizing verses


    splash on method
    History
     1956 – finally more salon perms were
    administered
     Slogans appeared everywhere
     “Professional care is best for the hair”
     TONI – the famous slogan “Which twin has the
    Toni?” ad landed the Toni Home Permanent
    Company in court when it was discovered that
    both twins had had their hair done in a salon,
    which charged $15 per treatment, as opposed to
    the $2 cost of a home perm
     Toni was ordered to refrain from further false advertising
    History

     1960’s – perms and alkaline perms


     Natural styles were emphasized & straight hair
    became the big look
    By the 1960’s, scientific hair analysis had
    made us more aware of pH
     Potential hydrogen
    1965 – “reverse perm”
     Removal of undesired curl, later classified as
    chemical hair straighteners
    History
     Early attempts to use chemicals to reform the
    hair quickly gave way to the alkaline cold
    waving method that is still in use today
     This method utilizes a waving solution that is
    formulated with
     Thioglycolic acid or its derivatives
     Gentler curl
     Ammonium hydroxide
     Firmer curl
    History
     1970’s – acid wave was developed which help
    reverse the negative attitude with perming
     Today
     Although thioglycolic acid or a derivative is still the
    basic ingredient, the free ammonia or excess alkali
    is eliminated from the formula
     This does not end the history of permanent
    waving because of continual exploration for the
    “perfect curl”
    Summary
    Charles Nessler invented the perm machine
    capable of producing “permanent” curl in hair
    1st perms were called heat waves because
    heat and strong alkali produced the curl
    1930 cold wave introduced
    Today – acid waves popular because they
    have a lower pH than the cold waves and
    produce a more natural looking curl

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