BY: SURBHI GOYAL SWATI SUMAN B.F.

tech IV

PREPARATORY PROCESS FOR SEWING
 Bundle Ticket Design  Off Loading  Bundling

 Bundle ticket also known as work or pay control ticket  Originates in either cutting department or the pay-roll department  Used for pay control as well as production control process  Can be used for unit flow as well as bundle flow production systems

 Two major divisions: 1. * Thus two divisions are formed out of the bundle ticket : 1. Supervisory division 2. Sub-section which each operator takes . Collected on the pay-cards submitted by the operators * Is perforated in sections and sub-sections according to the total number of sub assembly and assembly lines as well as the number of jobs in them. Returned to payroll control by production supervisory staff 2.

collar. also the date the operation was completed. amount. Each of the supervisory division contains: a) b) c) d) e) f) g) Serial number of the entire bundle ticket The name of the sub-section. color of the bundle Name of each job in the section and the number of the operator who did the job. Style name or number Cutting order number or spreading ticket number (move ticket number) The date the bundle was compiled in the cutting department Size. The signature of the supervisor or checker for the production section covered by the ticket section.1. front. h) . next to each job name. such as sleeve. etc.

size and color of the bundle The price of job The style name or number The move ticket number controlling the bundle (or the cutting ticket number) There should be only one copy of each bundle ticket (with the same bundle ticket serial number). otherwise it would be impossible to prevent payment twice for a given task.2. Each of the operator’s sub-section contains: a) b) c) d) e) f) Name of the job Bundle ticket number The amount. .

ticketing. counting. . Off loading is the process of removing cut parts from the cutting table. and grouping them.  This is usually done through bundle tickets that originate with cutting orders.  Cut parts are considered work-in-progress inventory and are counted and tracked through the rest of the production processes.

b) Ensure that the correct parts are assembled together. . The purpose of bundle tickets is to: a) Monitor the progress of each specific garment. and c) Compensate operators for their work on each garment.

 Throughout the sewing process. and ply number.  Shade marking is done prior to bundling. . which is ensured by shade marking each piece in the lay. it is essential that each garment be assembled from parts that have been cut from the same ply of fabric.  Every piece is ticketed with a style number. Cut part identification involves identifying and marking parts for further operations. size.

and the parts are ready to be moved to the sewing operation. and recombining parts for bundling. Bundle tickets are attached.  Garment parts are grouped and bundled for the specific production system to be used.  This involves separating and laying out cut garment parts. fusing the required parts. . Fusing applications of interlinings are frequently done as part of preproduction operations. positioning cut interlining parts on the appropriate parts.

 Works best for the work station layout which permits the bundler to sort with a) A motion pattern devoid of backtrack or criss-cross movements b) Minimum distance from stack to stack * Manner of folding or superposing the plies in the bundles should be such that there is a) Minimum or no creasing b) Minimum or no disarraying of the cut alignment .

excellent means for bundling and transporting cut sections without the necessity of bundle tying.  Perfect quality and securement can be had by a) Making the bundle board slightly larger than the pattern area b) Securing the sides of the board with outside latches . Tier stack bins (or boxes) on casters.  The sorted stack should be packed between two plies of masonite or appropriate cardboard.

DOCUMENTATION PROCEDURES AND CONTROL  Cutting Instruction Issue  Fabric Control Charts .

as materials comprise approximately 40% of manufacturing costs. should be regarded as vitally important.  It is to be ensured that the materials are efficiently used. and reports variances. which authorises the issue of fabric and provides essential information for spreading and cutting. .  The fabric reconciliation record provides a comparison of actual usage. The details of individual batches are entered on a cutting instruction.  This forms the link between cutting room activities and financial control projections.  And.

The marker to be used. The number of plies authorized (or equivalent). the cutting sheet. The fabric to be processed. It is known by a variety of names in industry: The cutting order. 2. The cutting instruction must have the following information: 1.Cutting Instruction The cutting instruction is the main documentary output of the cut order planning process. . the lay sheet. etc. 3.

Example format for the cutting instruction .

This number is also entered on the cutting instruction record. more than one style may be cut together.  Marker numberSince the cutting instruction authorises the processing of one lay.The details of the cutting instruction as taken from the cut order plan are as follows.  Cutting instruction numberEach document has a unique number for the purpose of management control.  Style numberNormally only one style is cut in a lay but in exceptional circumstances. in order to improve marker utilisation. . only one marker is specified.

.  Measured lay lengthThis figure is entered by the spreader on completion of the lay. Date issuedThe cutting schedule governs the authorisation of lays. By adding on the ends allowance. the spreader can determine the lay length.  Marker lengthInformation on the marker length is transferred to the cutting instruction. It provides direct feedback on ends of ply losses and can be used to assist the analysis of low yield. The progress of batches in the cutting room may be monitored by reference to the issue date.

 Garments to be cutDetails of the garments to be cut are based on the cut order plan. Fabric to be cutThe fabric to be cut details inform the storeman and the spreader of the planner’s intentions. and the number of garments is calculated by multiplying the marker quantity by the number of plies. . A qualitative description of the fabric is given so they can check that the correct fabric is issued. The marker quantities are entered against each size.

. What work is overdue and needs progressing. the issue and progress of cutting instructions are recorded in a cutting instruction record. What work is in progress in the cutting room. It enables the manager to know: 1.Cutting Instruction Record In a manual management information system. 3. Comparisons between issue dates and completion dates provide information on throughout times. The cutting instruction record is designed to assist control. 2. Weekly production data for updating other documents.

Procedure for updating the cutting instruction record Issue cutting instruction Issue fabric from store Lay Enter details in cutting instruction record Cut Bundle Return cutting instruction to cutting room manager Update cutting instruction record .

CUTTING INSTRUCTION RECORD Production unit Lay No. 2. 14/4 D 200 Format for a simple cutting instruction record . 14/4 14/4 14/4 A B C 100 150 100 4. Date Issued Week number Style Doz to Cut Doz Cut Date Completed Operator 1. 3.

 The spreading audit investigates all aspects of material usage and assesses the control being exercised in the various processes. .

2. . the marker and the number of plies in the lay as per the cutting instruction. Ends LossesThis has to be reviewed since ends waste has a tendency to increase with time. to facilitate the comparison. Lay DetailsThe first check is to ensure the fabric.1. The cutting instruction has a record of the measured lay length and the marker length.

4. Edge AllowanceThe usable width of the fabric should be established by comparing the lay with the marker width. . The difference between the marker width and the lay width is the edge allowance. Splice AllowanceSplice allowances resulting from the ends of pieces or from the cutting out of faults should be examined and the splice lines should be clearly marked.3.

but evidence should be present that remnant lengths are processed efficiently with the objective of minimizing waste. . Faults ProcessedComparisons between the number of strung faults and the number of faults cut out during spreading (or recut after spreading) provide an indication of the supplier’s standards of inspection. 6. Remnant LengthsThe practices of the cutting room should be considered in the light of all constraints.5.

 This total length may then be compared with the purchased length issued. Data is required on: o The lengths of faulty fabric cut out during spreading (x) o The lengths involved in splicing allowances (y) o The gross length of the fabric pieces (z) .  In case of discrepancy further measurements are necessary.7. The ply length multiplied by the total number of plies provides the starting point for the calculation.  To this should be added the lengths of all remnants and any unused fabric. as there may be a problem in the losses due to fabric faults. Accounting for purchased length issued  It is possible to assess whether the purchased lengths are realistic or not.

o If there is a discrepancy > inadequate compensation to process faults. Gross lengtho Obtained from the tickets supplied with the pieces o It is the purchased length plus the allowances made for strung faults. o The lengths ‘x’ and ‘y’ are added together and compared with the difference between ‘z’ and the measured lay length.  If o No discrepancy > allowances being made for faults satisfactory. .

o If correct spreading is confirmed. . the inference is that the company is being overcharged for the fabric supplied. effectively reducing the length of the fabric. o Checks should also be made to see if fabric shrinkage is occurring during spreading. If calculations show that purchased length and the actual piece length are not matching then: o The spreading technique must be checked to ensure that the fabric is laid up without overfeed.

a new marker was made but with a reduced utilization. These changes were done at the customer’s request but they led to an increased rating of fabric usage.  Production pressures required that a small lay be prepared so that work could be issued to the sewing unit within a few hours. A short marker was prepared with a reduced utilization.  Pattern changes had occurred since the production costing was determined. .Deviations from the Costed Marker Plan It is possible that the marker used with specific lays is not the same as the production marker used to determine the rating of fabric usage (RFU).  Customer feedback meant that a marker with a different ratio was prepared. To avoid problems of misshapen panels at the selvedge edges. with a higher RFU. This could be for several reasons:  The fabric received was narrower than the specification. and a decision was made to cut rather than return the fabric.

o Common data   Rating of fabric usage = 1.Fabric Usage Control: Fabric Reconciliation  It is also called as: gains and loss report or the fabric variance report. and the variance is reported. for each lay.  Fabric reconciliation takes place after the fabric has been cut.  Following worked examples demonstrate the principles.  The essence of fabric reconciliation is that. a comparison is made between costed and actual usage of fabric.53m/garment Fabric Cost = Rs 50 per m .

53 = 550.8 m Gain in Fabric = 550. By subtracting the actual usage from the costed usage.53 = 459 m Loss in Fabric = 463 – 459 = 4 m Loss = Rs 200  Both the examples show that a costed usage figure can be calculated from the number of garments cut from the lay.8 m Saving = Rs 290 o Example 2.0 = 5. of garments cut = 300 Costed Usage = 300 X 1. the variance can be established and expressed in monetary terms. .o Example 1.  It is normal practice for variances to be included in the weekly report for senior management. Lay 1      Actual Usage = 545 m No. of garments cut = 360 Costed Usage = 360 X 1. Lay 2      Actual Usage = 463 m No.8 – 545.

10 0.0 132.20 3.45 5.40 2.65 0.8 133.0 264.0 3.75 Total 1.4 262.1 132.00 0.60 8.00 0.5 265.80 1.30 3.FABRIC RECONCILIATION RECORD Style: A555 Rating of fabric Usage: 0.05 Example of a fabric reconciliation record .70 9.0 264.7 264.55 m/gmt Week end: 8/11 Fabric Cost: $1.2 267.0 263.25 1.0 264.50 1.0 132.50 per metre Lay Number Garments Cut Actual Usage (m) Costed usage (m) Fabric variance $ variance Gain Loss Gain Loss 173 185 197 212 218 230 237 480 480 480 240 240 480 480 260.70 1.0 264.80 5.

CUTTING ROOM LAYOUT AND CUTTING  Room Organization .

 The method of transportation. which may require straight lines. which may need to be near to services or where the floor is strong enough to bear its weight. like a belt conveyor or to be graded downwards.The best layout for a given factory will depend upon a variety of factors:  The minimum length of route for manual humping and expensive mechanical transportation.  The machinery location. like gravity-powered devices. .

such as that for the provision of adequate gangways . especially in respect to the division between process and product layout  The type of garment being manufactured. which may or may not lend itself to parallel make or to detailed sectionalisation  The shape of the building and the number of its floors  Safety requirements. The production system involved.