STRIPES & CHECKS

SESSION 17-21

Horizontal stripe fabrics

Horizontal Stripe Fabric

Vertical stripe fabric

Vertical stripe fabric

Checks fabric

Checks fabric

ALIGNMENT DIFFICULTIES STRIPES & CHECKS

Three main difficulties which affect marker making and spreading procedure 1.Fabric dimensions show variations: 2.Superimposed plies must be matched:

3.Garment pieces must be positioned accurately in relation to the fabric pattern:

1. Fabric dimensions show variations:

Problem associated with bowing and skewing
These distortions are shown up well in width ways striped and checked fabrics.

Dimensional variation along the length of the fabric.

 A single ply may exhibit these effects. The distance between pattern repeats can be measured easily to determine the magnitude of problem. The differences arise wherever the fabric can be distorted during its formation and finishing.

2. Superimposed plies must be matched

In order to lay up these patterned fabrics, it is essential that the ply length be determined by the pattern and not by the absolute length.
Consequently, to superimpose successive plies, areas of fullness and tightness must be accommodated within the lay.

3. Garment pieces must be positioned accurately in relation to the fabric pattern

Having layed up the fabric, a marker must be placed over the top ply. However, the marker is made to fit fabric with the specification pattern repeat dimensions, and an exact match may not occur. This means adjustments must be made manually during cutting

Construction of Garment Design

Variety of matching positions
Neck, shoulder areas Side seam

Additional matching position ----Complexity

Keep mim. Matching positions to achieve desired quality

Spreading Techniques
Time consuming and labour intensive Sometime individual plies may be cut

All techniques are based on locating particular stripes or checks and superimposing plies in a controlled manner.
Lays are generally short

1. Check spikes 2. Pinning Table 3. Folding 4. Block out

Check Spikes
Base-2.5cm diameter Different length Important matching points are located Inexpensive Ensure critical points are matched

Check spikes (not real image)

Check Spikes
Can produce localized distortion Safety hazard Time consuming

Pinning Table
Are a development of check spike principle and are designed to overcome some drawbacks.

Contains holes
The operator moves the pins vertically as necessary, beginning with the points just above the surface.

Pinning table
Each successive ply is positioned on the table with the matching points on the pins.

The operator ensures that the pins always protrude just above the top ply. Spreading is generally done by hands but machines can also be used.

 Can reduce spreading time. Reduces localized distortion Reduces safety hazards Permits longer lays to be processed

The usage of pins and pin tables in cutting room applications are:
To reduce ply slippage during lay cutting by straight knife
To align checks and stripes To align check or stripe while relaying block cut components

To reduce ply slippage while transferring fabric blocks to band knife

Folding
A method for processing relatively simple stripe knitwear involves cutting and folding panels of fabric. The fabric is folded to match the stripes and to compensate for any bow or skew that is present.

From the folded lay a small lay is built up , which may then be cut.
Very effective at minimizing problem of bow. Not convenient for styles requiring more complex marker plans.

Blocking Out and Relaying

Marker planned with relaying allowances Spread like plain and blocks are cut Relaying using small pinning tables or check spikes so that all the superimposed plies are correctly positioned. Re-cutting Useful if few matching points Material cost is high

Marker Planning
Check spikes and pinning table
Based on pattern repeat size Matching positions clearly marked

Folding
Paper marker not used No. of Folds must be stated

Blocking out
Pattern repeat allowance

 Make marker
Shirt Check fabric Repeat size
8cm 12cm 15cm

End