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Arteinscena: a case study

Maria Adele Cipolla


arteinscena@gmail.com
www.arteinscena.biz
Theatrical
Costumes Arteinscen
a

 Theatrical
costumes are a
synthesis of
creativity, taste,
historical
research and…
technique
 Sewing
 Cutting

Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
My
Sources Arteinscen
a

 Museum collections (V&A, Kyoto…)


 Historical costume books based on
analysis of old garments (Kohler…)
 Tailoring magazines from the ‘20’s
through the ’50s, found second hand
 Private collections in Palermo of
original garments (two, in need of
funding)
 Family heirlooms: in Palermo even
from the 18th century
 Period portraits etc.
Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
Starting point:
the base pattern Arteinscen
a

 The human body is 3D but fabrics are


2D; we need to cut and insert darts to
fit the fabric to the body
 The base pattern is the result of a
centuries-old tradition with precise
rules
 Nearly every distance between two
points has a mathematical relation
with one or more body measurements

Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
Variations
on a theme Arteinscen
a

 Costumes for an opera


chorus are made from
the same base pattern
and developed for
each singer’s
measurements

Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
The pattern cutter
(“chief”) Arteinscen
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 The key figure in a costume


atelier is the “pattern cutter”
 An atelier’s reputation
depends on his skill
 A mistaken cut leads to
longer production time (and
additional expenses)
 But it is a disappearing craft
 No attraction for the young
 Uncomforable working position

Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
I’ve been
through it Arteinscen
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 I was tired of managing lots


of cardboard shapes and
depending entirely on a
disappearing profession
 I thought: could computers
help me in this job?

Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
Industrial CAD doesn’t
solve my problem Arteinscen
a

 Industrial CAD uses


fixed distances to draw
the base pattern
 From there, grading
systems normally
develop different sizes
by increasing and
decreasing the shape

Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
Macrogen© software: my
solution. How does it work? Arteinscen
a

 Like CAD, the software


is based on cartesian
coordinates
 But each pattern is
constructed using the
traditional cutting
method
 Every distance is
espressed as a
function of a body
measurement
Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
Why it fits
my needs Arteinscen
a

 With Macrogen you can create base patterns (called


Macros) using default measurements
 Replacing the default values with those of a specific
body, the pattern fits with the client’s shape and
proportions
 A macro file can be created for each model, taking the
place of the old base patterns in cardboard

Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
The Macros maintain
the cutter’s expertise Arteinscen
a

 The Macro is thus the closest


thing to the traditional
technique
 That is the process still
followed by theatrical costume
houses (especially for opera)

Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
My digital
archive Arteinscen
a

 One by one I transfered my own


collection of base patterns into the
Macrogen system
 My collection used to require two
bookcases, now it all fits on a pen-
drive I can take with me

Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
I decided to offer my
collection to others Arteinscen
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 Arteinscena is an
ecommerce
service providing
theatrical
costume patterns
developed to
individual
measurements,
throughout the
world

Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
On-line clients
select a model Arteinscen
a

 Clients browse a
catalogue of over 200
models
 Men and Women
 From 1060 to 2000
 Using a tape measure
they take their
traditional tailoring
body measurements
(circumference, length
and width)

Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
And I generate their
custom pattern as a pdf file Arteinscen
a

 I input the client’s measurements


to replace the default values in
the macro, adjusting where
needed
 Using an associated CAD module
I place the pieces, colour the
elements, add notes and
generate the pdf file
 Within max 3 working days from
the order, the client receives a set
of A0 sized pdf files (normally 2-8
sheets), which can be plotted at a
local service

Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
The software
is precise Arteinscen
a

 Just as Microsoft Word cannot


write a novel, MacroGen
doesn’t transform any user into
a costume designer
 For that you need passion, lots
of historical research, and years
of back-stage experience
 However, the software helps
you to save time, avoid
mistakes and reduce repetitive
tasks
Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
I add my
experience… Arteinscen
a

 The software optimises the work process without


changing the important parts
 The rules of cutting follow the traditional practice
 Every pattern is manually adjusted where the drawing
lacks harmony
 Just as an experienced cutter would do to complete a job
 For example, in the curve of the armhole
 Nothing generated automatically escapes my personal
control

Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
…and
human support Arteinscen
a

 My clients prefer to have a personal


contact (mail and sometimes
phone), not an anonymous
“shopping cart”
 The client is accompanied through
the process of making the costume
with handbooks and mail and phone
support
 An online community forum is
available where clients exchange
tips and tricks (with me and between
them), signal events of common
interest and post photos of their
creations
Texmedin Workshop
Athens, Sept 24, 2009
Thank you for your attention
Maria Adele Cipolla
arteinscena@gmail.com
www.arteinscena.biz

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