You are on page 1of 48

Any method utilized to attempt to make the

production more environmental friendly,
involving the use of natural products and
energy in a way that does not harm the
environment.

Sustainability encompasses three factors
..Social, Economical and Environmental.
Sustainability in Textiles & Apparels

Present Issues – Global Warming
Planet earth is in turmoil due to the
effects of climate change
caused by irresponsible human activities
over many centuries

Temperature increases not only affect
human beings but also other living
organisms
and the impact can be felt world-wide.

Result – more extreme weather events
such as floods, droughts, heat waves and
tornadoes
Present Issues – Global Warming
Global Warming – Greenhouse Effect
Some energy is radiated
back into space by the earth
in the form of infrared
waves
Some of this outgoing
infrared radiation is trapped
by the earth’s atmosphere
and warms it
Most of this
radiation is
absorbed by the
Earth and warms it
The principal greenhouse gases that enter the atmosphere because of human activities are:


• Carbon Dioxide (CO
2
)
It enters the atmosphere through the burning of fossil fuels (oil, natural gas, and coal), solid waste, trees and
wood products, and also as a result of other chemical reactions (e.g., manufacture of cement).


• Methane (CH
4
)
It is emitted during the production and transport of fossil fuels. Methane emissions also result from livestock
and other agricultural practices and by the decay of organic waste in municipal solid waste landfills.


• Nitrous Oxide (N
2
O)
It is emitted during agricultural and industrial activities, as well as during combustion of fossil fuels and solid
waste.


• Fluorinated Gases
Hydrofluorocarbons, perfluorocarbons, and sulfur hexafluoride are synthetic, powerful greenhouse gases that
are emitted from a variety of industrial processes.
Greenhouse Gas Emission
Carbon Footprint
• A Carbon footprint is a measure of the
impact our activities have on the
environment, and in particular climate
change


• It relates to the total greenhouse gas
emissions produced directly and
indirectly in our day-to-day lives
through burning fossil fuels for
electricity, heating and transportation


International Agreements Climate Change






• Ultimate objective of stabilizing global GHG concentrations in the atmosphere
• Developed countries (Annex I countries) to
– aim to restore GHG emissions to 1990 levels
– Support capacity building in, and facilitate technology transfer to developing
countries
• Key concept: “common but differentiated responsibility according to respective
capabilities”
United Nations Framework Convention 0n Climate Change - 1992
The Kyoto Protocol post UNFCCC – 1997
• The Kyoto Protocol (KP) calls for a 5.2% reduction, on average, in greenhouse
gas (GHG) emissions in Annex I countries compared to 1990
• The KP entered into force in 2005
• No obligations on developing countries to reduce their emissions
• The KP contains the following flexible mechanisms
• International Emissions Trading
• Joint Implementation
• Clean Development Mechanism
The Copenhagen Accord
– Global target of limiting overall temperature increase to 2
o
C
– Developed countries’ commitment to finance vulnerable developing countries
– Short term financing of USD 30 billion by 2012
– Long term financing of USD 100 billion a year by 2020

Emission Targets – Post Copenhagen
90 countries have signed up to the accord, representing more than >80% of global emissions
Developed countries
• Japan: 25% below 1990 levels
• New Zealand: 10-20% below 1990 levels
• Australia: 5-25% below 2000 levels
• Europe: 20-30% below 1990 levels
• United States: 17% below 2005 levels
Emerging Economies
Nationally Appropriate Mitigation Actions (NAMAs) to be monitored domestically every two years.
• China - reduce carbon intensity by 40-45% on 2005 levels by 2020
• India - reduce carbon intensity by 20-25% on 2005 levels by 2020
• Indonesia - reduce emissions by 26-41% compared to BAU 2020

Environmental performance of India
• The 2012 Environmental Performance Index (EPI) and Pilot Trend EPI (Trend EPI) rank
132 countries on 22 performance indicators in ten policy categories and two overarching
objectives that reflect facets of Environmental Health and Ecosystem Vitality.

• Researchers at Yale university and Columbia University in collaboration with
World Economic Forum, Geneva, Switzerland reported the EPI on 2012



• Switzerland- 1
• France – 6
• Italy – 8
• Germany – 11
• Japan – 23
• Spain – 32
• Turkey – 109
• Bangladesh - 115
• China - 116
• India -125
• Top 5 – Latvia, Norway, Luxemburg, Costa Rica,
Switzerland

• Last 5 – South Africa, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan.
Turkmenistan. Iraq
2012 – Environmental Performance Index
Reaction from Customers


Reported by Independent research expert - IFH
Demand for Sustainable Apparels


Demand for Sustainable Apparels


Demand for Sustainable Apparels


How to identify Sustainable articles ?
• Dress worn by model Kate, produced in Romania
costing £175

• Is it sustainable ?

Demand for Sustainable Apparels


Demand for Sustainable Apparels


Reaction from International brands and retailers
Hohenstein
& ISO 14000
& Wrap, BSCI. COC
Independent Certification System
Independent Certification system
Social Compliance
NGO
Chemical management in finished article
Legal Requirements Europe
Legal Requirements USA
Anti-Fur Campaigns
Project by brands - ZDHC
Hohenstein
Anti-fur campaigns during 1980s and 1990s
• Benetton
• Calvin Klein
• Duckie Brown
• Easy Spirit (Jones Group)
• EcoSkin
• H&M
• Kimberly
• Ovitz
• Killer Loop (Benetton)
• Levi's
• Miss Me
• Murphy & Nye
• Peebles
• Ralph Lauren
• Signature
• The Gap
• Timberland
• Tommy Hilfiger
• United Colors of
Benetton (Benetton)
• Van Heusen
• Victoria's Secret (Limited
Brands)
• White House/Black Market.

• Many retailers and designers are rejecting animal cruelty and
potential consumer deception by adopting fur-free policies

• Companies committed in writing to be fur-free through the
international "Consumers for a Fur Free Society" program
proudly display the fur-free fox logo on their door.
Trade Association

• The American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) is the national trade association
representing apparel, footwear and other sewn products companies, and their suppliers
which compete in the global market.

The AAFA Restricted Substances List (RSL) is reviewed, updated, and the latest version
is made available for free to the apparel and footwear industry.
AFIRM MEMBERS
• REACh stands for

• Registration

• Evaluation

• Authorisation and Restriction of

Chemicals.
Legal Laws & Regulations - Reach
REACh - Timetable
June 1
st
2007
June 1
st
2008
Nov. 30
th
2008
December 2008
Nov 30
th
2010
May 31
st
2013
May 31
st
2018
Registration deadline for:
• >1000t/annum substances
• ‘Substances of very high
concern’
REACH enters into force
Pre-registration begins
Pre-registration finishes
List of Pre-registered
substances published
Registration deadline for:
• >100t/annum substances
Registration deadline for:
• >1t/annum substances
Reach is a European Regulation
which aims to ensure a high level of
protection of human health and the
environment from the risks that can be
posed by chemicals.

Recalls posted in Rapex http://ec.europa.eu/
Rapex is the EU (European Union) rapid alert system for all dangerous consumer products with
the exception of food, pharmaceutical & medical devices.
Country of origin: India
Notified : Finland
The blue colour releases 140
mg/kg of 3,3’
Dimethoxybenzidine (AZO),
which exceeds the limit 30
mg/kg.

The product does not comply
with the REACH Regulation.

Import rejected by the
customs authorities.
Independent Certification System –
Oeko-Tex® Standard 100
(Articles free from Harmful Substances)
An international certification system jointly
developed by Hohenstein Institutes and Oti in
1990 for textiles and garments from all stages
of production

Aim: The exclusion of harmful substances
along the entire textile supply chain.
Hohenstein

List of Substances covered in Oeko-Tex Standard
®
100
International growth in certification from 1992 – June 2011 (cumulative)
As of: Dec 2011 - Source: Oeko-Tex® Association, Zurich
110,067 certificates
Independent Certification System –
Oeko-Tex® Standard 100
Legal Laws & Regulations
CPSC – Consumer Product Safety Commission
The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission is charged with protecting the public
from unreasonable risks of injury or death from thousands of types of consumer
products under the agency's jurisdiction.
Name of Product: O'Neill Pluto hooded flannel shirts
Hazard: The hooded sweatshirts have drawstrings in the
neck that can pose a strangulation hazard to children.
Sold at: $60
Manufactured in: India
Non-Compliant article
Legal Laws & Regulations
CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65
• Proposition 65 is a California law that requires
"warning labels" on ALL products (not just
children's products) sold in California that contain
lead, phthalates, cadmium and any one of 850
other chemicals that the State of California
believes could cause cancer or reproductive
toxicity.


• Hazard – Lead on decorative painting
Non-Compliant Product
Environmental friendly process
Oeko-Tex® Standard 1000
OEKO-TEX® Standard 1000 is a testing, auditing and certification system for
environmentally friendly operations in the textile and clothing industry.

Well defined criteria covering all four Key areas

1. Environmental Management


2. Quality Management


3. Safety Management


4. Social Compatibility
Hohenstein
Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 - Technical Requirements

1. Human- Ecological Requirement
2. Chemicals and Technologies in the Production
Free from harmful substances like...
• Mak-amines / Carcinogenic dyes /Allergenic dyes /Heavy Metals
• Blue dyestuff -611-070-00-2 (EG 405-665-4) /Carrier /Pesticides /Flame Retardants
• Tensides like APEO /EDTA /DTPA /NP
• Wash detergents- dichloromethane / trichloroethylene / tetrachloroethylene / >0.5 %
phosphorous / phosphates
• Cleaning and degreasing Agents- dichloromethane / trichloroethylene /
tetrachloroethylene
• Other substances – asbestos / Orgonotin Compounds / PFOS /DMF / Etc..
• Ozone depleting substances like HCFC
Prohibited Technologies

• Printing based on heavy benzene

• Use of Dichromate as oxidizing agent to improve Colour Fastness Properties

• Chlorinated Organic Solvents and Fluoro Chlorinated Organic Solvents in open system
Other Requirements
• If at all phosphorous based flame retardant is used then the phosphor content in the
effluent must be reduced by 80 %

• Declaration of sizing and spinning oils ( trade name and amount) to the customers

• Substance with >0.1 % of SVHC listed in Reach regulation must be declared to the
customers.

Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 - Technical Requirements

3. Water and waste water
To avoid wastage of water wherever possible and also meet the local and national legal
requirements for waster water

4. Exhaust Air & Additional Requirements
To control emission of CO /dust / SO
2
/NO
X
and also to record emission of the same at
firing plants.

5. Noise
To provide ear protections if the noise level is > 85 dB and also this location need to be
marked clearly.

6. Energy
used energy must be utilized optimally.

7. Work place
must meet legal aspect such as to provide training on occupational health and safety, To
provide potable water and adequate number of Toilets

Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 - Technical Requirements

Social
Criteria
No Discrimination
No Sexual Harassment
No Corporal
Punishment
No Forced Labour
Collective Bargaining
Working Hours
Minimum Wages
8. Social Criteria
Oeko-Tex® Standard 1000 - Technical Requirements

• Spain - 26
• Switzerland - 7
• China - 7
• Germany - 5
• Portugal - 4
• Hungary - 3
• Slovakia Republic - 2
• Egypt - 2
• Austria - 1
• Belgium - 1
• Italy - 1
• Czech Republic - 1
• Thailand - 1
• Sweden - 1

Total – 62

• Spinners - 19
• Weavers /Knitters - 19
• Yarn dyers/Textile finishers - 30
• Garment Manufactures - 13

Oeko – Tex® 1000 Certified Companies
(as on 13.08.2012)
• Greenpeace is a non-governmental environmental organization with
offices in over forty countries and with an international coordinating
body in Amsterdam, The Netherlands.
NGO

BRANDS No. of
Samples
No. Tested
Positive
BRANDS No. of
Samples
No. Tested
Positive
3 3 4 1
9 4 4 4
4 3 10 5
6 5 9 7
5 3 4 3
2 0 4 3
6 4 3 3
5 4 Total 78 52
- Brands Tested
SA 8000 – present scenario
As on June 30, 2012
SAI is a non-governmental, international, multi-stakeholder organization dedicated to improving
workplaces and communities by developing and implementing socially responsible standards.

In 1997, SAI launches SA8000 (Social Accountability 8000) – a voluntary standard for workplaces, based on ILO and
UN conventions – which is currently used by businesses and governments around the world and is recognized as one
of the strongest workplace standards.
Certified Facilities By Industry June 30, 2012

Certified Facilities By Country June 30, 2012

• RØADMAP TO ZERO DISCHARGE OF HAZARDOUS CHEMICALS

A group of major apparel and footwear brands and retailers who have made a
commitment towards ZDHC - Adidas Group, C&A, G-Star, H&M, Li-Ning, Nike, Inc.
and Puma.

The objective of this commitment is to lead the apparel and footwear industry towards
zero discharge of hazardous chemicals for all products across all pathways in our supply
chains by 2020.
Projects By Brands
ZERO DISCHARGE OF HAZARDOUS CHEMICALS (ZDHC)
adidas group
www.adidas-group.com



G-STAR RAW
www.g-star.com
Hennes & Mauritz
www.hm.com
Li-Ning
www.li-ning.com
Nike, Inc.
www.nikeinc.com
PUMA
www.puma.com
C&A
www.c-and-a.com
Measuring Environmental Performance –
Industry Group
• The Sustainable Apparel Coalition is an industry-wide group of over 60 leading apparel
and footwear brands, retailers, suppliers, nonprofits, and NGOs working to reduce the
environmental and social impacts of apparel and footwear products around the world.

• The focus of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition is The Higg Index that measures the
environmental performance of apparel products.

• The Higg Index helps the product teams to select materials with lower environmental
impacts.
Members – Brands
Adidas
Asics
The Coca Cola Company
Columbia
Esprit
Gap, Inc
H&M HanesBrands
Inditex
Levi Strauss & Co.
Loomstate
New Balance
Nike
Patagonia
Pentland Brands
PUMA
VF Corporation
Members - Retailers
REI
Walmart
Target
Otto Group
Nordstrom
Mountain Equipment Co-op
Marks & Spencer
L.L. Bean, Inc.
Kohl's Department Stores
JC Penney C&A
Members - Suppliers
Arvind Mills
Avery Dennison
Cohesive Trim
Clariant
DuPont
DyStar
Esquel Group
WL Gore & Associates
Huntsman
Intradeco
Lenzing
Li & Fung Limited
Makalot Industrial Company
MAS Active
Pratibha Syntex Limited Ramatex Group
TAL Apparel
Teijin Fibers Limited
Tiong Liong Corporation
Members - Industry Affiliates
Bureau Veritas
Cotton, Inc.
European Outdoor Group
Outdoor Industry Association
Oeko-Tex
Verité
Members - Non-Profit, Government, and Education
Duke Center for Sustainability
and Commerce
Environmental Defense Fund
U.S. Environmental
Protection Agency
Natural Resources
Defense Council
Textile Exchange
University of Delaware
Utrecht University World Resources Institute
Other findings NASA Survey – Advantages of White
Roof Tops
• Black/dark rooftops are 42 degrees Fahrenheit hotter than white roof tops


• painting a roof white can reduce air conditioning demand as much as 20 percent.


• painting one percent of the world’s urban surfaces white (rooftops and pavement) could reduce CO2
emissions by 130 gigatons over the next 50-100 years.

Motivational Schemes –
Oeko-Tex® Sustainability Awards

• The "OEKO-TEX® Sustainability Award" will be inaugurated by
the OEKO-TEX® Association to celebrate the 20-year anniversary
of the OEKO-TEX® Testing and Certification System

• A panel of experts from the OEKO-TEX® Association will each
month pre-select two "Companies of the Month" from the
applications received. Each of these companies has its products
certified from a human-ecological perspective in accordance with
the OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 and has further production
operating under proven environmentally-friendly and socially-
responsible conditions in accordance with the OEKO-TEX®
Standard 1000.

Motivational Schemes – Parivartan Awards –
by Sustainability Outlook

Categories:

• Corporate Sustainability Stewardship Awards
• Sustainability Disclosure Leadership Award
• Sustainability innovation Challenge Award
• Sustainability Leader of the Year Award
2011 Parivartan Award winners
Self - Initiative
Thank you very much for your kind attention!
Hohenstein India Pvt. Ltd
20/1, First Floor, Jaganathan Lay-out,
Karuvampalayam,
Mangalam Road,
Tirupur, Tamilnadu.
Phone +421 2230248 / 4350751
Fax +421 2230249
www.hohenstein.com


Mr. A.Vignesh
Mobile +91 99523 15777
E-Mail a.vignesh@hohenstein.in

For Further Support, Please contact :