You are on page 1of 62

HBK Tp.

HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG


M PHM

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


GII THIU

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


GII THIU

1. Sodium Laureth Sulfate,


2. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate,
3. Cocamide MEA,
4. Zinc Carbonate,
5. Glycol Distearate,
6. Zinc Pryrithinone,
7. Dimethicone,
8. Cetyl Alcohol,
9. Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride,
10. Magnesium Sulfate,
11. Sodium Benzoate,
12. Ammonium Laureth Sulfate,
13. Magnesium Carbonate Hydroxite,
14. Benzyl Alcohol,
15. Sodium Chloride,
16. Methylchloroisothiazolinone,
17. Methylisothiazolinone,
18. CI 60730, CI 42090,
19. Sodium Xylenessulfonate,
20. Cht to hng - Menthol

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


GII THIU

1. Cht hot ng b mt
2. Du, m, sp
3. Cht to nht
4. Cht dit khun, bo qun
5. Hot cht tr liu
6. Cht mu
7. Cht mi
8. Nc

1. Sodium Laureth Sulfate,


2. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate,
3. Cocamide MEA,
4. Zinc Carbonate,
5. Glycol Distearate,
6. Zinc Pryrithinone,
7. Dimethicone,
8. Cetyl Alcohol,
9. Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride,
10. Magnesium Sulfate,
11. Sodium Benzoate,
12. Ammonium Laureth Sulfate,
13. Magnesium Carbonate Hydroxite,
14. Benzyl Alcohol,
15. Sodium Chloride,
16. Methylchloroisothiazolinone,
17. Methylisothiazolinone,
18. CI 60730, CI 42090,
19. Sodium Xylenessulfonate,
20. Cht to hng - Menthol

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


GII THIU
DU GI DU TR GU

THNH PHN NGUYN LIU TRONG M PHM

1. Du, m, sp

Oil, fat, wax

1. Cht hot ng b mt

2. Cht hot ng b mt

Surfactant

2. Du, m, sp

3. Cht to nht

Thickener, viscosity enhancer

3. Cht to nht

4. Cht dit khun

Antibacterial, preservative

4. Cht dit khun, bo qun

5. Cht chng oxy ho

Antioxidant

5. Hot cht tr liu

6. Cht gi m

Humectant,

6. Cht mu

7. Cht che ph

Miscellaneous substance

7. Cht mi

8. Cht mu

Colorant

9. Cht to hng

Perfume

10. Nc

Water

11. Cht tr liu

Active substance

8. Nc

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM

Tm hiu :
1. nh ngha : cht l g?
2. Vai tr : Cht s dng trong m phm lm g?
3. Phn loi : c bao nhiu loi cht nh th?
4. Cch s dng : La chn v s dng chng nh th no?

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


1. DU, M, SP

nh ngha:
Nhng cht mang tnh du, khng tan trong nc v
to c lp film chng thm nc.
- Du : th lng 21oC
- M : ng rn 21oC
- Sp : th rn 21oC

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


1. DU, M, SP
Vai tr trong m phm
1. C bay hi thp nhit phng v khng tan trong nc.
2. C cm gic nhn trn da, li mt lp mng nhn c th nhn thy trn da v tc
sau khi s dng.

3. Lan ta d dng v li mt lp mng k nc trn i tng. (Sp c tc dng


lm tng nhit nng chy ca lp mng k nc)
4. C th c nh ha vi nc khi c mt mt cht nh ha thch hp.
5. C kh nng lm dung mi cho cc cht tan trong cc dung mi khng phn cc.
6. C tnh cht lm mm (emollient), ngn s kh da bng cch duy tr hm lng
nc ca da, to cho da s mm mi.
8

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


1. DU, M, SP
ng dng
C mt trong mt s lng ln cc sn phm
m phm : cc loi kem, lotion, du gi, du
x, son mi.

QUNG CO
Emollient: skin softening, lubricating, nourishing and conditioning
Cht gia m cho da l nhng cht c kh nng lm mm v mt da, nui dng
v ci thin tnh trng ca ln da.

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


1. DU, M, SP
Phn loi

Thc vt

Glycerides

DU, M, SP

ng vt

Ru bo, acid
bo, cc ester nonglycerides

Tng hp v
bn tng hp

Khong

Hydrocarbon

Ester

Silicons

10

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


1. DU, M, SP

Glycerides : l cc ester mono, di, tri (nhiu nht trong t nhin) ca glycerine v
cc acid bo (no hoc khng no)
V d:

thc vt :du da, du c, du u nnh,


ng vt: m heo, m b, m c.
Thu phn

Glycerine + x phng

Kim

Glycerides
Acid
Acid bo no: glycerides c
nhit nng chy cao (du
da, m heo)
Acid bo khng no :
glyceride c nhit nng
chy thp (du u nnh)

Glycerine +

acid bo

Quyt nh tnh cht ca


glycerides : trng thi, nht,
nhit nng chy, kh,.
11

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


1. DU, M, SP
Acid bo

Cng thc chung : R COOH, vi R c t 4 carbon tr ln


Ngun gc : thu phn cc glycerides (thc vt, ng vt) hoc cc ester khc
1. Acid bo no: mch thng hoc nhnh,khng cha ni i
Acid lauric (C12), acid Myristic (C14), acid Palmitic (C16), acid Stearic (C18)
2. Acid bo khng no : mch thng hoc nhnh cha ni i, vng (c th c thm
cc nhm chc khc ch yu l hydroxyl)
Acid Oleic (C18:1:9), acid Linoleic (C18:2:9,12), acid Linolenic (C18:3:9,12,15)
Acid Hydnocarpic

12

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


1. DU, M, SP
Ru bo

Cng thc chung : R CH2-OH, trong m phm thng dng C18


Ngun gc : tn ti dng t do, t phn ng thu phn cc ester ca ru bo v
acid be, hoc phn ng kh t cc acid bo tng ng
- Oley alcol : CH3- (CH2)7 CH = CH(CH2)7 CH2-OH
- Linoleyl alcol : CH3 -(CH2)4 -CH = CHCH2CH = CH(CH2)7 -CH2-OH.
- Linolenyl alcol : CH3 (CH2 CH = CH2)3 CH2 (CH2)6 CH2OH

13

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


1. DU, M, SP

Hydrocarbon
Cng thc chung : CxHy, thng thng l cc cht mch thng, nhnh bo ho hoc
cha vng no
Ngun gc : T du m (paraffin, du khong, mineral oil, du trng), t du gan
c

Du khong:
CH 3

Du squalene

H3C

CH 3
CH 3

CH 3

Du squalane

CH 3

CH 3

CH 3

H3C

CH3

CH3

CH3
CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

14

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


1. DU, M, SP

Du,m, sp tng hp : cc loi khng xut hin trong t nhin, ch yu l cc


Glycerides vi cc acid bo khc nhau (glyceryl monosterate), du silicon,cc loi
polymer

CH3
Du silicon

CH3

CH3

H3C Si O (Si O)nSi CH3


CH3

CH3

CH3

Dimethicone polydimethylsiloxane

H2C OH
Glyceryl monosterate

HC OH
H2C OCOC17H35
15

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM

Sillicone

1. di lin kt Si O da hn C-O : mch Silixane uyn chuyn hn c th


iu chnh nht ca sillicone theo mun.
2. To khong h ln hn, cho php cc phn t kh di qua : to thnh mng h
hp
3. Nhit nng chy thp
4. bay hi thp
5. Kh nng chu nn cao
6. bn nhit, bn oxi ho cao to sn phm c tnh n nh cao
7. C th thay i cu trc v cc nhm nh chc (phenyl, alcol, amino) t
c hiu qu mong mun
c s dng rt nhiu trong cc sn phm m phm ngy nay

16

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


1. DU, M, SP
Cc loi sp thng s dng:

Sp parafin : Thu t du m , l cc hydrocacbon no (C20 -C35).

Cc acid bo : Cc acid rn nhit phng v c th s dng nh sp.

Cetyl alcol : CH3(CH2)14CH2OH, c tnh cht sp, tn ti dng t do cng nh dng


ester trong spermaceti.

Stearyl alcol : CH3(CH2)16CH2OH, c tnh cht gn ging cetyl alcohol, i khi trong qu
trnh s dng hai ru c trn li vi nhau.

Lanolin : cht rn hi dnh, mu vng ti. Lanolin l hn hp cc ester trung tnh v ru


t do, bao gm c cholesterol

Spermaceti : Thu c t c nh tng, cha ch yu cetyl palmitate.

Sp ong : L hn hp cc ester cetyl hoc myrcyl vi gc myristate hoc palmitate v mt


vi acid bo t do, ru t do v cc hydrocarbon

Sp carnauba : L sp l c, cng v gin, vng sng hay xanh xm vi bng cao


17

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


2. CHT HOT NG B MT
nh ngha : Cc cht hot ng b mt (surfactant) l nhng cht c kh nng thay
i sc cng b mt (lm gim) ti b mt phn chia pha.
B mt phn chia pha : Rn lng, lng lng, lng kh, kh rn, rn rn.
(Trong m phm : Rn lng, lng lng, lng kh)

ui k nc (Hydrophobic chain)

u a nc (Hydrophilic head)

18

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


2. CHT HOT NG B MT
Vai tr
1. Cht ty ra : nhm mc ch loi b cc cht khng mong mun ra khi mt b
mt no (loi cht bn ra kh b mt da, tc)
2. Cht lm t : Nhm mc ch thm t, tng cng lin kt gia hai b mt khc
nhau, v d nh thm t cc ht mu.

3. To bt : to bt mn, u v bn (du gi, kem nh rng, sa tm)


4. Nh ho : to va duy tr bn ca nh (cc loi kem, lotion)
5. Lm tan : lm tan cc cu t mng mun vo mt dung mi no (nc hoa)

- Tnh cht khc : dit khun (cc cation amonium bc 4), hp ph ln b mt


(cationic trong du dng tc), c ch enzyme
Gn nh tt c cc sn phm m phm u c s dng cht hot ng b
mt
19

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


2. CHT HOT NG B MT
Phn loi

1. Anionic

Nhm anion lin kt trc tip vi phn k nc


-Fatty acid soap RCOO-M+;- Alkyl sulfate ROSO3- M+
Nhm anion lin kt qua lin kt ester
- Mono glyceride sulfate
RCOOCH2CHOHCH2OSO3-M+
Nhm anion c ni qua lin kt ete
- Alkyl ether sulfate R(OCH2CH2)nOSO3- M+
Nhm anion c ni qua lin kt amid
- Alkanolamide sulfate
RCONHCH2CH2OSO3- M+
Nhm anion c ni qua lin kt amidin
- Imidezole sulfate

Cc mui amoni bc 4 trong nit ni trc tip vi nhm k nc


- Mui alkyl trimethyl amonium

2. Cationic

Nhm cation in ly
- Quaternized amides of ethylene diamine
Nhm cation t trong vng
- Mui alkyl piridinium
Cht hot ng b mt cation khng nit
- Mui Sulfonium
20

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


2. CHT HOT NG B MT

3. Nonionic

Alkanol amides
- Fatty acid alkanol amid RCONHCH2CH2OH; Fatty acid dialkanol amid RCON(CH2CH2OH)2
Cc dn xut poly ethylene glycol
-Alkyl poly glycol ether R(OCH2CH2)nOH; Alkyl aryl poly glycol ether RC6H4(OCH2CH2)Noh
- Poly glycol ester RCO(OCH2CH2)nOH; Thio ether RS(CH2CH2O)nH
Cc dn xut poly ethylene imin
- Alkyl poly ethylene imin R(NHCH2CH2)nNH2; Poly ethylene imin amid RCONH(CH2CH2NH)nH
Alkylamino acid
- Alkyl b-aminopropionat
Betaine

RNHCH2CH2COO-

4. Lng tnh
(Ampholytic)

Acylamino acid
- Alkyl b-aminopropionat

- Acyl peptit

Alkyl imidazolin
21

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


3. CHT TO NHT CHT LM C
nh ngha : nhng cht c tc dng lm tng nht, m c cho sn phm
Ch yu l cc cht c kh nng to lin kt ngang, gel, trng n
Vai tr:
1. Tng nht cho sn phm : to cm gic m c, v d chu ca sn phm
2. To trng thi rn cho cc sn phm (gel)
3. To tnh cht lu bin phi Newton v kh nng n hi
4. Kh nng phc hi cu trc sau kh chu tc dng lc
5. To lp bt bn chc
Thng gp : t st, cc loi nha cy, gum, polymer t nhin, polymer nhn to

22

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


3. CHT TO NHT
Cht lng phi-Newton s ng theo ng sut tc dng

Log nht

2
1- Lng
2- San bng

3
4

5
6

3- Rt
4- Bm
5- Thoa
6- Xt

Log - ng sut ct

23

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


3. CHT TO NHT
Sn phm:
-Du gi : nht, m c khi rt ra bn tay, nhng d tri u ln tc
-Gel : duy tr trng thi rn khi cha s dng, nhng d dng thoa u ln tc
-Kem nh rng : c tnh dn hi, t hi phc sau khi b y ra khi tut kem

- Cellulose ether, xanthan gum, polyacrylic acid : tng theo nht , n hi

- Smetic, organoclays : tng nht ca cht lng phi Newton khi s dng nng
thp, to gel khi tng cao nng
- CMC (carboxytmethylcellulose), hydroethylencellulose (HEC), hydroxylpropyl

cellulose, methylcellulose : tng nht, nhng khng to tnh n hi


24

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


4. CHT DIT KHUN
nh ngha : Cht c khn nng tiu dit vi sinh vt (vi nm, vi khun, vi trng),

ngn khng cho vi sinh vt pht trin.


Vai tr:
1. Cht cho vo sn phm sn phm c kh nng tiu dit vi sinh vt trn i tng

s dng cht dit khun- st trng (antiseptic, antibacterial..) x phng dit khun,
sn phm ty mi, nc sc ming, kem nh rng/ liu s dng thng ln 12%
2. Cht cho vo sn phm nhm mc ch bo v sn phm khi s xm nhp v pht
trin ca vi khun cht bo qun (preservative)/ liu s dng thng thp 0.1
0.2%.

25

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


4. CHT ST TRNG
H vi sinh vt trn c th ngi:

1. H vi sinh vt thng trc : thng khng c c tnh v kh loi b


Tp trung ti : cc vng m t ca c th nh: tc, vng di cnh tay, , da mt; t
hn cc vng khc nh: cnh tay, bn tay
Trn da: Gram(+) Staphyloccoci, micrococci, corynbacteria

Vng khc: Gram (-) anicetobacter


10 -20% tp trung cc nang lng, tuyn nhn rt kh loi b bng cc phng php tm
ra thng thng
Sn phm m phm dit khun
2. H vi sinh vt tm thi : c tnh cao nhng tng i d loi b
Tp trung nhiu nhng vng tip xc thng xuyn vi mi trng: tay, chn, da
mt

-Khng tn ta lu, c th loi b bng cc phng php tm ra thng thng


26

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


CHT ST TRNG

Hot ng ca vi sinh vt l nguyn nhn gy ra:


1. Mi c th (vng di cnh tay), mi hi th (khoang ming)
2. Cc bnh l lin quan n da: mn, nm, gu
3. Cc bnh lin quan n rng ming

4. Cc bnh nhim trng c hi khi da b tn thng

Phi kim sot s pht trin ca h vi sinh vt thng tr (gy nguy him

nu pht trin qu mc) v loi b h vi sinh vt tm thi (c c tnh)

27

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


CHT ST TRNG

Loi sn phm

Cht dit khun s dng

Nhm

X phng dit khun

TCC

Carbanilide

(0.5 2%)

TBS

Salycilanilide

Irgasan DP300

Biphenols
Cl

Cl

Cl

Cl

NH CO NH

HO
Cl
Irgasan DP300

Cl

TCC
Trichlorocarban

(3,4,4-trichlorobarbanilide)

2,4,4-trichloro 2-hydroxyldiphenylether
Cl

Triclosan Cm s dng ti EU 1987


Cl

3,4,5-tribromosalicylanilide

OH
CO NH
TBS

Cl
28

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


CHT ST TRNG

Loi sn phm

Cht dit khun s dng

Du gi tr gu

Zinc pyridine-2-thiol-1-oxide

O
Se S O
O

Nhm
Pyridine N-oxides

Selenium sulfite

Selenium

Irgasan DP300

Biphenols

Hexachlorophene

Hexachlorophene

Selenium sulfite

S
N

O
Zn

Cl

ZnPTO Omadine (Olin Mathieson Chemicals)

OH

Cl

CH2

Zinc pyridine-2-thiol-1-oxide

OH

Cl

Cl
Cl
Cl
Hexaclorophene

29

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


CHT ST TRNG

Loi sn phm

Cht dit khun s dng

Sn phm ty mi v chng ra m hi

Nhm

Zinc phenolsulphonate

Zinc

Chlorhexidine

Cation

IrgasanDP300

Biphenols

Ammnium bc 4

Ammonium 4

Alkyl dimethyl
benzyl ammonium

Alkyl
trimethyl
ammonium
30

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


CHT ST TRNG

Loi sn phm
Nc sc ming v kem nh rng

dialkyl dimethyl ammonium

Cht dit khun s dng


Chlorhexidine
Ammnium bc 4

Nhm
Cation
Ammonium 4

ethoxylated alkyl dimethyl ammonium

31

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


CHT BO QUN

Thnh phn sn phm m phm:

-Du, m, sp..
Mi trng thun li cho vi sinh vt pht trin

-Nc
-Nhng thnh phn khc..
Vi sinh vt trong m phm do:
- C trong nguyn liu

- Nhim bn t quy trnh sn xut (ng ng, b cha, khng kh, cng nhn)
- Nhim bn trong qu trnh s dng (khng kh, ngi s dng)
-Gy mt thm m ca sn phm (pht sinh mu, mi kh chu)

- Gy nguy him cho ngi tiu dng


CHT BO QUN THCH HP

32

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


CHT BO QUN
Kt hp cht bo qun vo cng thc sn phm:
1. Cng thc t bo qun:
-

Cng thc ca cc sn phm dit khun

Cha nhng cht c kh nng ngn chn vi sinh vt pht trin tnh nng ph)
+ nhng cht c tnh nng dit khuun (cht dit khun, hng, tinh du,
acid)
+ Nhng cht hydrate (Glycerine, sorbitol ..) vi hm lng ln
+ Cht hot ng b mt (lm thay i sc cng b mt)
+ pH (vi sinh vt t pht trin pH <5 hoc >8)
2. Cho thm cht bo qun vo cng thc:
Hm lng rt thp 0.1 0.2%,
33

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


CHT BO QUN
Yu cu la chn cht bo qun thch hp:

1. Khng c, gy kch thch hay nhy cm nng s dng trn da.


2. Bn vi nhit v cha c lu di.
3. C kh nng tng hp vi cc cu t khc trong cng thc v vi vt liu
bao gi.

4. Nn c hot tnh nng thp.


5. Gi c hiu qu trong phm vi pH rng.
6. C hiu qu i vi nhiu vi sinh vt.
7. D tan nng hiu qu.

8. Khng mi v khng mu.


9. Khng b bay hi, gi c hot tnh khi c cc mui kim loi nh nhm,
km, v st.
34

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


CHT KHNG OXY HO
nh ngha : l nhng cht c kh nng ngn chn qu trnh oxy ho qua vic ngn
chn s hnh thnh gc t do, bt gi gc t do
Vai tr:
1. Cht chng oxy ho c s dng nh l mt hot cht, thng qua vic s dng

sn phm, to nn tc dng chng oxy ho trn i tng s dng (kem dng da,
du gi c ch vitamine E, vitamine C, tinh cht tr xanh.)
2. Cht chng oxy ho cho vo sn phm nhm mc ch bo v sn phm, chng li
qu trnh oxy ho cc nguyn liu d b oxy ho ca sn phm (Thng gp nh
BHA, BHT)
Mc ch chnh trong sn phm m phm :

?????

35

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


CHT KHNG OXY HO
Qu trnh oxy ho

h
Sens*

sens

Quang oxy ho

Phn hu

LH
3O
2

LH

3O
2

Oxi ho xc tc
enzyme

1O
2

Kim loi
Nhit

LOOH

OHo

LOo
LOOo

lipoxigenase

Ro

T oxy ho

T oxy ho

LOOo

ng oxy ho

RH
3O
2

Lo

Ho

h, ion kim loi LH

Nhit

36

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM

Qu trnh oxy ho
- Giai on khi u (khi mo) :
RH cc gc t do (R* , RO2* )
- Giai on pht trin mch :
R* + O2 RO2*

RO2* + RH ROOH + R*
- Giai on ngt mch :
RO2* + RO2*
RO2* + R *

R*

cc sn phm tng mch.

+ R*

R C C R'
H H
Nhng Lipid khng bo ho d b oxy ho nht
(acid linoleic,)

V tr d b tn cng
37

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


CHT KHNG OXY HO
Cc gc t do gy ra qu trnh oxy ho lipid
Gc t do hot tnh cao nh
- hydroxyl OH,
- ion st (Fe2+O), Cu(OH)2,
Nhng gc t do hot tnh trung bnh v yu nh
- superoxide anion O2,
- peroxyl (ROO),
- hydrogen peroxide H2O2,
- singlet oxy (O1), triplet oxy (O3)
- nitric oxide (NO),
- peroxynitrite (ONOO-),

- Ph hy mng lipid khng bo ho


ca t bo lm gim kh nng
bo v s xm nhp ca cc tc
nhn gy bnh
- Oxi ha cc nucleic base lm thay
i cu trc ADN cc qu trnh
t bin, pht sinh cc khi u, ung
th
- Lm hng cu trc cc protein
mang nhm SH cc bnh nghim
trng v ng h hp.

- alkoxyl (RO)
Vai tr quan trng ca cc cht chng oxy ho

38

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


CHT KHNG OXY HO
1. Cht khng oxy ho s cp : cht cho electron v kt thc phn ng chui
+ Tocopherol : Vitamine E
+ Acid ascorbic : Viatmine C
+ BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) , BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole)
+ Galate, polyphenol

+ Carotene, vitamine A
+ Hydroquinon
c im cu trc : Cha h lin hp ln, gii to c in tch t do gc t do bn
RH + A* R* + AH
A* : gc t do hot ng
R* : Gc t do bn to thnh t cht khng oxy ho

39

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


CHT KHNG OXY HO
Vitamine E :
: (1),(2) : - CH3
: (1) : -CH3, (2) : H
: (1) : H, (2) : - CH3
: (1),(2) : H

(1)
HO
(2)

HO

OH
OH

OH

HO

HO

H
O

C(CH3)3

OH
OCH3

BHA

HO

OH

H
OH
Polyphenols

Vitamine C

40

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


CHT KHNG OXY HO

Carotene

CH3
H3C

CH3

CH3
CH2OH

CH3

Viatmine A

41

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


CHT KHNG OXY HO

2. Cht oxy ho th cp: cht c kh nng phn hu cc hydroperoxyt ca cht bo


thnh cc sn phm bn nh : dilauryl thiopropionate, acid thiopropionic
3. Cc cht to phc chelate, nhm loi b cc ion kim loi : EDTA
(ethylenediaminetetraacetic), acid citric
4. Cc cht loi b oxy ra khi h thng : viatmine C,

5. Cc enzyme c tc dng loi b oxy hoc cc cht c kh nng oxy ho


glycine
COOH

O C
NHCH2 SH
HN
Glutamic acid

H2C

CH2

HOOC OH COOH

Acid citric

Glutathione
42

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


5. CHT GI M

nh ngha : cht gia m (humectant: l nhng cht c kh nng ht hi m t


khng kh (ho nc), ngn chn qu trnh thot hi nc t sn phm, trnh lm cho
sn phm b kh.
Humectant

Emollient

-Ht nc mnh

- Khng ht nc

-Hp thu nc t khng kh


-To lin kt vi nc
trong sn phm

- Ngn chn qu trnh mt


nc bng cch to lp film
khng thm nc bao ph b
mt

- Mt tc dng khi bo ho

- Khng b mt tc dng

-Dng cho sn phm m


phm

- Dng cho da, tc

- C th ht nc cho da

43

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


5. CHT GI M
P hi nc trong khng kh < P bo ho
Qu trnh mt nc sn phm l lin tc nhng hin tng khng
mong mun sn phm (kh, vn cc, nt b mt)
Khng kh
ngn chn qu trnh
mt nc:

Hi nc

-Bao gi kn
-B sung cht c tc dng
ht m t khng kh.
Sn phm

44

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


5. CHT GI M
OH

OH

OH

+ Cht lm m v c

CaCl2
+ Cht lm m c kim (kim loi - hu c)

OH

OH

OH

Sorbitol

Natri lactat/acid lactic


+ Cht lm m hu c

Ethylen glycol,

HOH2C CH2OH

Ethylen glycol

Glycerine (trihydroxy propan),


Sorbitol (hexahydroxy hexan).

OH

OH

Propylen glycol
CH3

Polyethylene glycol.
OH

- S dng nhiu nht

Propylen glycol

OH

OH

Glycerine

- C v ngt
- Chng li s pht trin ca vi khun nng cao

45

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


6. CHT CHE PH
nh ngha: l nhng cht bt mn thng c mang mu, c din tch b mt ln,
c s dng trong cc loi phn trang im
- Bt talc : bt khong mu trng, thnh phn ho hc : hydrated magnesium
silicate, t hp thu nc
- Kaolin : t st trng, thnh phn ch yu hydrated aluminum silicate. Cht hp
thu tt, t khi ln.
- Titan dioxide, Zine oxide
- Calcium carbonate, Magnesium carbonate
- Zinc magnesium stearate : cht kt dnh
- Tinh bt :polysaccharide
- Mica : potassium aluminum silicate dihydrate
- Polymer : Nylon -12, nylon -6, polyethylen, polypropylen, sillicon.
46

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


7. CHT MU
nh ngha: l nhng cht mang mu, to mu cho sn phm
Vai tr:
1. To mu cho cc sn phm cn c mu (cc sn phm trang im : phn, son,
sn mng tay)
2. To tnh thm m cho sn phm (kem, lotion, kem nh rng)

47

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


7. CHT MU

Cht mu dng trong m phm : Quy nh ring nhm m bo an ton

La chn : Theo

tiu chun M

: Food, Drug and Cosmetic (F,D&C; D&C)

tiu chun chu u

: EU

Tiu chun Nht bn : Japan Standard

Nhm sn phm

Nhm mu
Tan trong nc

Sn phm tm gi (du gi, sa tm),cc


loi kem, x bng, kem nh rng, nc xc ming.

Tan trong du

Cc sn phm c tinh du (son mi ) kem nn du

Pigment

Cc sn phm trang im, son mi, kem nh rng, x


phng

Lake

cc sn phm trang im vng mt, son mi

Mu phn tn trong nc

X phng

48

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM

NaO3S

OH
N

SO3Na

NH
N
H
SO3Na

O
O

SO3Na

Yellow orange (FD&C No.6) CI 15985


O

Cl

Green (D&C No .5) CI 61570

Cl

Brilliant pink (D&C No.30) CI 73360


O
49

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


7. CHT MU

Cht mu trong m phm

Tan

Khng tan

-Tan trong nc

V c

Hu c

-Tan trong ethanol


-Tan trong du
Lake

Pigment

Oxide

Mu kim loi

Ultramarine

Mt s mu
khc

Black
Green

50

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


7. CHT MU
1. Oxide : Oxide Fe : mu vng, , nu nht : khai thc t ngun t nhin hoc tng
hp nhn to (t ln tp cht hn)
2. Ultramarine : Hn hp mang mu lapis lazuli (t mu xanh nc bin mu
hng nht), to thnh t : t set1, sulphur, soda, silica, nha, mui
3. Black: Carbon black (mui than t qu trnh t chy khng hon ton kh thin
nhin), vegetable black (t chy du thc vt), bone black(t qu trnh calci ho
xng, c mu nu nht), oxide st t Fe3O4
4. Green : Oxide Chrome(Cr2O3)
5. Mu kim loi : Bt nhm (mu trng), bt ng, bt vng (mu vng, tmtu
theo kch c ht kim loi)
6. Mu ngc trai (pear essences) : t vay c hoc Bismuth oxychloride
7. Mu tm : Mui mangan ammonium phosphate : (NH4)2Mn2(P2O7)2
51

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


8. CHT TO HNG

nh ngha: cht mang hng thm, to hng cho sn phm


Vai tr:
1. To hng cho sn phm hng : nc hoa
2. To mi hng hp dn cho cc sn phm m phm (yu t thng
mi) : tt c cc sn phm u c hng thm
Du gi
Sa tm
Son, phn

Kem dng da
Vai tr s 2 : Mang tnh quyt nh n s thnh cng ca sn phm trn th trng
52

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


8. CHT TO HNG
Yu cu ca ngi tiu dng:
-Hng thm trc khi s dng
-Hng thm trong khi s dng

Hp dn, d chu, v ng nht

-Hng thm sau khi s dng

V d : du gi du, x bng tm
- Tng hp ca cc nhm sn phm : Hng phn nn, son mi khng th qu
m

Quy tc la ch hng v phi hng cho sn phm

53

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


8. CHT TO HNG

Mi hng khi m hp sn phm, trc


khi s dng
15 - 25%

Mi hng trong khi s dng


30 - 40%

Mu hng lu li sau khi s dng


45 - 55%
54

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


9. HOT CHT
nh ngha: l nhng cht c hot tnh c bit, thm vo to ra sn phm c tnh
cht tng ng
- Cht dit khun,
- Cht khng oxy ho,
- Cht hp thu UV,
- Cht lm trng da,

Sn phm m phm ng vai tr l cu ni


a cc hot cht vo i tng

- Hormone,
- Vitamin,
- Hp cht thin nhin

55

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


9. HOT CHT
Cht hp thu tia UV
Tia UV :

Gy lo ho da

UVB (290-320nm)

Tc ng ln AND gy ung th

UVA(320-400nm)

Tc ng ln h min dch ca da
Sn phm chng nng

Ngn chn tia UV

Hp thu tia UV

-Titanium dioxide (TiO2)

Cc hp cht hu c c vng
thm

-Zinc oxide (ZnO)

-Aminobenzoic acid
-Octyl salicylate
56

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


9. HOT CHT
Cht lm trng da
Tc dng : ngn chn qu trnh to thnh melanin hoc chuyn melanin thnh cht
khc khng mang mu
OH

OH

Hydroquinon

OH

arbutin

OH
OH

OH
CH2OH

HO

L-ascorbic
acid

O
HO

OH

Kojic
acid

OH

HO
O

57

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


9. HOT CHT
Vitamin
-Vitamin A
Tc dng chng lo ho da, ci thin v ngoi v n hi ca da
-Vitamin C
Tc dng chng oxy ho, kh nng chng tc ng ca tia UV, c s
dng nh l mt cht c kh nng lm trng da
-Vitamin E
Tc dng chng oxy ho, ngn chn tia UV
-Mt s nhm vitamin khc : vitamine D, vitamine B6, beta carotene
Ch yu trong cc sn phm cho da v tc : tc dng cha tht
s r rng
58

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM

Cht chit xut t thin nhin


-Nhng chit xut t thin nhin :
+ Khng khun, khng nm
+ Khng oxy ho
+ Khng vim,

B sung vo sn phm nhm tn dng


nhng tnh cht ny

+ C ch cc vitamin
+ an ton cao
Do cha cc nhm : terpene, polyphenols, carotenoid, .
Sn phm : Tinh cht tr xanh, tinh cht da leo, ngh, cam tho..

59

CHNG 2

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


10. NC
Vai tr:

1. Lm dung mi ho tan cc cht tan trong nc


2. Lm tng nc trong cc sn phm c to nh
3. To khi, gim gi thnh sn phm (Mt s sn phm nc c th chim t 50 90%)
Ngun nc s dng phi m bo:
- Khng nhim cc ion kim loi ( ion)
- Khng nhim cc cht hu c

- Khng nhim cc vi sinh vt (tit trng)


- Khng mu, khng mi v.

Quy trnh x l v kim


sot cht lng nc trong
cng ngh

60

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


10. NC
Du gi du
Thnh phn

%khi lng

Ammonium lauryl sulfate

10 -20

Lauramide DEA

3-5

Methyl paraben

0.08

Propyl paraben

0.05

Sodium chloride

0.5-1.5

Disodium EDTA

0.2

Fragrance

0.5

Mu

0.001

Nc

vd 100

72.669 - 85.669

Kem a dng
Thnh phn
Mineral oil
Lanolin
Petroleum jelly
Ozokerite
Paraffin wax
Arlacel 83
Glycerol
Magnesium sulphate
Cht bo qun
Fragrance
Nc

%khi lng
18.0
2.0
2.0
7.0
3.0
1.5
5.0
0.2
0.1
0.1
61.3

GI THNH SN PHM??
61

HBK Tp.HCM - 2007

CHNG 2

NGUYN LIU DNG TRONG M PHM


LA CHN NGUYN LIU

1. Tnh cht : Nguyn liu phi mang nhng tnh cht mong mun (kh nng
to nh, kh nng ht nc, mu sc, hng thm.)
2. Tnh tng hp : Khng tng tc vi cc cu t khc trong sn phm, bn,
khng b bin i trong qu trnh sn xut, tn tr, s dng,
3. Tnh an ton : khng gy nguy him cho ngi s dng
4. Gi thnh : gi thnh hp l theo gi thnh sn phm
LA CHN:

theo cc cng thc c pht trin theo hng thch hp


Theo kinh nghim

62