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Veri-Tech, Inc.

Providing Proven Technology


Under a Cooperative Research & Development Agreement

with the U.S. Army Engineering Research and Development
Center (dated 1997), Veri-Tech constructed two major
coastal engineering tools:
Coastal Engineering Manual Professional Edition
Coastal Engineering Design & Analysis System
Federal funding not provided

Tutorial Content
CEM 2.01 PE Information and use
CEDAS Version 4.01 Organization

Slide #
3 11
12 13

General Engineering Module


14 17
18 25
26 31

Inlet Processes Module


32 42
43 48

Beach Processes Module


Grid Generation and other tools



49 72
52 - 57
58 - 61
62 - 67
68 - 70

72 75
76 80
81 84

More than a manual

Over 3000 pages
Over 500 codes
6 Parts / 36 chapters
Interactive modeling
Metric & English units
Programmed equations
Spreadsheet results
Interactive graphs
Cross referencing
Rigorous search
Capture / Print / Plot
Periodic updates

Replacement for the

Shore Protection Manual

Veri-Techs Flagship Product unique in the industry

CEM 2.01 PE Look & Feel

Viewer Capability
Variable font size
Adjustable windows
Capture material
for your use
Scratch notes



Capture photos and

figures for your use
Adjustable background
& foreground colors / fonts

CEM Search

Search any
word /
phrase or pick
list of key word
Go To takes you
to the text &
highlights phrase

All References,
Problems, and
Figures are

CEM Graphs & References

Click on a point to
capture x , y values
Run code for exact

Click reference

Export spreadsheet and / or graphics


2D Chart Graphics

Complete control of fonts & colors

Built-in HELP files for graphics

For which variable do I solve ?

What to do if the equation is non-linear?
CEM 2.01 PE does it for you!


Or Graphics

How to Use CEM 2.01 PE Demo Version

CEM 2.01 PE contains over 3000 printed pages. VT provides a Demo Version
on CD that has approximately 10 percent active pages to give you a good
opportunity to see how the manual works. You will be able to navigate
and search the manual for words or phrases, save notes on active pages,
change background and foreground colors and fonts, and run equations
and example problems that are contained in the active pages. The Content
Tab contains a listing of all chapters and sections of the entire CEM.
A complete discussion on How to Use the CEM is included in CEM 2.01 PE
as the first section in the manual. We suggest you browse this section
before attempting to use the program. The DEMO can be downloaded from
our web site (approx. 26 Mb) or shipped to you for a shipping/handling charge.
Inactive pages are identified with the icon
CEM Introduction
How to Use the CEM - all
Part I - all
Part II - Chapter 7 - sections 1, 2, 3, 8 - 10
Part III - Chapter 2 - sections 2-3, 2-3a,
2-3b, 5, 6, 7

. Active pages in the Demo Version include:

Part IV - Chapter 2 - sections 1 through 4, 14, 15

Part V - Chapter 3 - sections 3-1, 3-2, 3-7 - 3-9
Part VI - Chapter 5 - sections 5-2-b, 5-2-b-1, 5-2-b-2,
5-5 through 5-5-b-12, 9 - 11

Companion tools for

use with the CEM
A comprehensive
collection of coastal
engineering software
developed by or for
VT enhanced and
improved existing CERC
models within a
interface with graphics
VT provides a DEMO version of
CEDAS that permits you to
operate any of the models in CEDAS but does not allow saving, printing, exporting any
file or information. This DEMO can be downloaded from our web site (approx. 25 Mb)
or it can be shipped to you on CD for a shipping/handling charge.

CEDAS Modules

General Engineering
ACES - collection of general coastal engineerin
EST - life cycle risk analysis / storm impacts
RELIABLE reliability-based structure design
Inlet Processes
DYNLET - powerful 1-D hydrodynamic model
NMLong-CW - simulates longshore current an
transport rate new roller model
Beach Processes
SBEACH - simulates cross-shore beach / dune
RMAP regional morphology analysis package
BMAP - beach morphology analysis tools
NEMOS - simulates nearshore evolution (inclu
models - RCPWAVE & STWAVE - and
shoreline change model GENESIS & GEN

8 Functional Areas
ACES is an

Wave Prediction

Wave Theory
design and analysis
system in the field
of coastal engineering
containing eight
Wave Transformation
functional areas.
The original ACES
formulation contained only six
functional areas
and 24 codes
(shown in red).

Structural Design
Wave Runup

Veri-Tech developed Littoral Processes

all codes shown in blue
as a by-product of
Inlet Processes
CEM 2.01 PE.

Harbor Design


Windspeed Adjustment and Wave Growth

Beta-Raleigh Distribution
Extremal Significant Wave Height Analysis
Constituent Tide Analysis
Near-surface wind speeds
Holland Hurricane Model

Linear Wave Theory

Cnoidal Wave Theory
Fourier Series Wave Theory - Fenton
Wave Parameters
Solitary Wave Theory
Linear Wave Theory with Snells Law
Irregular Wave Transformation - Godas Metho
Combined Diffraction / Reflection by a Vertical
Breakwater Design Using Hudson Equation
Toe Protection Design
Nonbreaking Wave Forces at Vertical Walls
Rubble-Mound Revetment Design
Irregular Wave Runup on Beaches
Wave Runup / Overtopping on Impermeable St
Wave Transmission on Impermeable Structure
Wave Transmission through Permeable Structu
Wave Setup Across Surf Zone
Longshore Sediment Transport - Deepwater
Longshore Sediment Transport - Breaking
Wave Conditions
Longshore Transport using CEDRS / WIS
Statistical Data
Beach Nourishment Overfill Ratio
Calculation of Composite Grain-Size
Simplified Inlet Hydraulics
Wave-current Interaction

How to use ACES

ACES opens with

a Welcome screen.
Click Begin a new
application or open
an existing one.

Fill in meta data

for project title
and notes
Warning message
displayed to select
a functional area, right click in the left window
and begin to name Groups and Cases

Once a group is named, right click in left

window to name & select a case or select one
of the codes in this area signified by the blue
icon buttons

When any code is selected, a Compute box appears loaded with example
data (examples could be in English or Metric units and Fresh or Salty water).
Change the data to fit your case and
click Calculate results appear in the
lower half of the screen.

Clicking OK displays results in

tabular form in the right window.
If graphics are available for the
application, the Graphics icon will
appear in the left window - in this application only tabular results are presented.

Graphics in ACES
CEDAS uses ComponentOne Chart2D graphics package for plot display. This
package has its own extensive HELP files that permit the user to change colors,
fonts, symbols, and other characteristics of the plot. Simply right click the mouse
on the graph to bring up the Chart2D dialog box to change any of the default
settings for graphics.

Background color and

fonts changed using
2D Chart Control box

Empirical Simulation Technique

Procedure for simulating multiple life-cycle sequences of non-deterministic multiparameter systems
Based on a "Bootstrap" resampling-with-replacement, interpolation, and subsequent
smoothing technique
Employs random sampling of a finite length database to generate a larger database
A generalized risk analysis procedure for any cyclic or frequency-related
Applications include risk / frequency of:
Flood levels due to storms
Erosion of dredged material mounds
Storm-induced beach / dune erosion
Scour at bridge piles due to extreme currents
ETC! Applications are endless!
Basic assumption: future events statistically similar in magnitude &
frequency to past events

Start with analysis of historical events that have impacted a specific locale (for
simplicity, this presentation is restricted to flood frequency analysis)
Select a database of storm events for your project site
Parameterize events in some way to define their characteristics and impacts
Parameters that define the storms are referred to as Input Vectors
Response Vectors define storm-related impacts
Input & response vectors are used as the basis for generating life-cycle simulations
of storm-event activity with corresponding impacts
Tropical storm input vectors - describe the physical characteristics of the storm event
& the location of the event with respect to the project site. Examples include:
central pressure deficit, radius to maximum winds, maximum wind velocity, minimum distance
from the eye of the storm to the project site (track), forward speed of the eye, tidal phase and
amplitude during the event, etc.

Extratropical storm input vectors might include:

duration of event as measured by some threshold damage criteria, associated wind wave heights
and periods, tidal phase and amplitude, storm surge elevation with no tidal contribution, etc.
Note: Input vectors are not limited to those described; they can be any physical attribute of the
overall system that may affect the response of the system. For example, in some applications
rainfall and river stage could be included as input vectors since their values influence the
computed distribution of high water within a basin.

Response vectors define storm-related impacts such as inundation and shoreline / dune
erosion. Both tropical & extratropical storm impacts might include:
maximum surge or flood elevation, shoreline erosion, dune recession, etc.
Response vectors are related to input vectors BUT the interrelationship is
highly nonlinear and involve correlation relationships that cannot be directly
defined, i.e., nonparametric
For example, in addition to storm input parameters storm surge is a function of local
bathymetry, shoreline slope and exposure, spatial and temporal gradients of ocean
currents, temperature, etc. It is assumed these combined effects are reflected by the
response vectors even though their individual contribution to the response is unknown.
Response parameters are usually not available from post-storm records at the spatial
density required for a frequency analysis.
Additional tools needed: Response vectors are generally computed via numerical
models. For example:
maximum surge elevation may require a hydrodynamic model coupled to a
tropical storm model or databases containing extratropical wind fields
storm-related erosion may require additional models to compute berm / dune erosion
Typical models for simulating response phenomena might be:

Example Application flood frequency for South Carolina

For tropical storms the NOAA HURDAT
database covers 150 years of tropical storm
information impacting the east and Gulf coast
of the U.S. EST contains the HURDAT database.

Begin a new session

Coastal Reach

# events/yr = # historical events

# observation yrs
# repetitions of a life cycle - N

Specify title, units, datum, & case notes

# of years in a life cycle - T

Specifying seed
allows run

Next set tropical storm parameters

Similar for extratropical storms

Define Station locations

Set graphics controls
For the actual study 38 stations were selected.
Station names & locations can be imported as
an ASCII file, entered directly, OR created
In this study there was a single
response. Settings to the left
refer to what curves are shown
on all plotted results.
Columns of the
storm database:
# of event
Historical or not
Relative probability
Storm name
I1 tidal phasing
I2 distance from eye
I3 central pressure
I4 max wind speed
I5 forward speed
R1 max water elevation


EST input tropical storms

[similar for extratropical events]

Selection of a Training Set of storms

Ideally: historical data will be adequate insofar that it includes both the number of events
and the severity of events as measured by their descriptive parameters. Experience
shows this is usually not the case for less frequent tropical events.
Steps in selecting an appropriate storm set:
Remove redundant events
Augment the database with historical like storms
(necessary for very sparse databases)
Historical like storms: storms that could have occurred such as:
one with a slightly altered path or one with increased/decreased radius to maximum wind
Probability of the historical like storms
is shared with the actual event. In the
example presented here, Hurricane Hugos
path was altered to form two similar
storms on a path approximately 0.25 N
and 0.25 S of the actual path.
The ADCIRC model was used to compute
the storm response for each event in the
Training Set.

View / export plots and

/ or tabular data

Example results

EST can develop input files directly

from HURDAT data
1 - specify criteria to select storms, input
parameters, & station location
2 - select storms from the file to analyze [add all]
3 - identify candidates you want to include by
examining track and viewing storm data
4 - select / export your storm set

Storm Analysis in EST

Theory of reliability-based design
Reliability methods are readily adaptable to a wide variety of coastal structure design
and evaluation problems and provide a powerful tool for rationally making economic
compromises that are always necessary in civil engineering. The RELIABLE code allows
a Level II analysis (approximates reliability assuming the limit state equation is normally
distributed and converts all random correlated non-normally distributed variables to
non-correlated normally distributed variables, or assumes a mathematically simplified
form of the failure surface, or both). RELIABLE employs a Taylor Series expansion of
the limit state equation about some critical point and reliability is computed as the
minimum distance between the failure surface and zero. A discussion of this approach
can be found in a WES Technical Report by Melby and Mlakar (1997).
Equations that describe aspects of coastal structures can be formulated in terms of a
performance or failure function. Examples for rubble-mound structures include
equations for armor stability (Hudson, van der Meer, etc.), breakage, runup, scour, etc.
In general the failure function is formulated as
g = R - S


g = C - D

where R and S stand for resistance and loading or C and D for capacity and demand,
respectively. Usually R and S are functions of many random variables and the limit
state is given by the equation g = 0, that is, g = 0 represents the failure surface that
separates the safe region from the failure region.

Theory of reliability-based design contd

The probability of failure is given by Pf = Prob [ g 0 ] and the reliability is
defined as Rf = 1 - Pf . The reliability index, , is defined as the mean of g divided
by its standard deviation: = g / g .
The first step to estimate the reliability of a design is to establish a limit state equation
in one of two forms:
safety margin: g(x) = R(xR) S(xS)
safety factor: F(x) = R(xR) / S(xS)
such that g > 0 or F > 1 represents satisfactory performance. In the above equations,
x represents a set of stochastic variables describing geometry, material properties,
and loading for the particular limit state, R is a function of the set of stochastic
resistance or capacity variables, xR, and S is a function of the set of stochastic loading
or demand variables xS. Refer to CEM 2.01 Professional Edition and Melby and
Mlakar (1997) for details on Reliability theory and formulation of the Taylor Series
Finite Difference approach to solving the set of equations by an iterative mean point
analysis (basis of Program RELIABLE).

General Expressions
Any limit state equations or performance functions can be used in reliability analysis.
Rather than developing codes specific to a given set of equations, RELIABLE takes
the approach of solving two general expressions that together can represent most any
equation in the CEM dealing with structures. These two general expressions for limit
state equations are:

1 2 3

1 2 3
31 2 3

G C1 R R R ..... C2 C r r r ....

Variable #

1 2 3
1 2 3

1 2 3
6 1 2 3

C4 S S S .... C5 C s s s ....
Variable #



1 2
4 1 2

2 G C1 R R ... C2 N [C3 S1 S 2 ... C s s ... (C5 e

Variable #


Variable #

C6 SS11SS 2 2 ...

) ]

N [ P Qss1 1 ss2 2 ]

The variables R, r, S, s, SS, and ss are all stochastic variables. All other terms are either exponents
of the variables or constants. The variable numbers are included as input to the program.

RELIABLE is organized in a manner similar to ACES
Fill in meta data
for project title
and notes
with a Welcome
screen. Click
Begin a new
application or
open an existing
Right click in left
window to name a
New Group.
Highlight the group
name and select a
Case name to bring
up the compute

Example Hudsons Equation

When the Compute box appears, it is
loaded with example data for Hudsons Equation

Click Select Governing Safety

Margin Equation to bring in data
for any safety margin equation
discussed in Chapter 6 of
CEM 2.01 PE
To fit this equation to Expression 1,
the coefficients C1 to C6 become
1.0, 1.0, 0.0, 1.0, 1.0, 0.0, respectively.
The exponents and variable numbers
are shown for each variable on the
left and exponents 1 and 2 are both

View tabular or graphic results

of the analysis and influence
factors note that wave height
H has the dominating influence
on the answer 97 % !
For a reliability of 98 % - no failure a nominal stone size of 3.8 m is needed.

DYNLET - A model for one-dimensional fluid flow from the ocean

through a tidal inlet, into back bay regions, and up tributaries
Governing Equations:

Finite Difference - Implicit
Conservation of mass satisfied at junctions



Theta () = 0 Explicit
0.5 < 1.0 Implicit

i -1


Distance along channel

Data Edit Menu


Right click case

name & select
Edit Case

Zero Discharge
6 folders are constructed
for each new case

Zero Discharge

Example Grid



Potential for
lateral inflow

Data entries:

Channel and Junction information

Boundary Conditions

Indicate where you want output

Velocity - nodes and X-sectional stations are plotted

Hi-Lighted station appears hi-lighted on plot

Cross section data

Prepare data on spreadsheet
and import
Or enter data directly
Plot below helps decision on
discretization for best channel
Ability to insert / delete nodes

Distance between nodes

Lateral inflow rates
Channel alignment angles
Transition loss coefficients
Initial discharge rates

Time Dependent Data

Specify time series for:

Wind Speed
Wind Direction

Hi-light any tabular column and plot versus time

Display Results
Expanding folders
permits access to


Hand Icon - holds

plot for overlay
Control graphic

2D Chart graphics

Automated Grid Generation in DYNLET

Cross-section data can
be developed on screen
by importing bathymetry data, developing
a background grid,
and selecting nodes
and cross sections
using the mouse
Steps shown at left
for importing an
ASCII (text) x,y,z
bathymetry file

The background grid will be

used for interpolating crosssectional data

It is not
necessary to
use any special
shoreline data

NOAA Website:

Shoreline data

Construct nodes and cross sections

Visualizing / Editing Grid

NMLong-CW Model Formulation

Numerical Model for Simulating Longshore Current - Wave Interaction
NMLong-CW simulates wave transformation, the steady-state wave-generated
longshore current, and change in water level at an inlet / beach by waves and wind.
The interaction between a current and waves can significantly alter the wave height
and wavelength. NMLong-CW is a one-dimensional model and is limited to
situations where longshore uniformity applies.
Alongshore Momentum Equation - Current

1 dS xy
Rw Rlc
d f by

Cross-Shore Momentum Equation

Mean Water Level

dS xx

C D a W W cos

where Sxx = radiation stress transported


C gr
S xx gH
cos 2 1

Assumes no interaction between external current & wave/wind generation

Model Attributes
Solves wave energy flux conservation equation

Accounts for wave shoaling, refraction, breaking, and reforming

Transformation of random waves calculated by Monte-Carlo simulation
Wave energy dissipation accompanying depth-limited breaking described in
accordance with Dally et al. (1985)
Cross-shore momentum equation solved numerically to obtain the change in water level
Equation governing alongshore momentum gives the distribution of the steady
longshore current velocity across the shore
Longshore current and change in water level (setup and setdown) driven by a
local wind can be specified
Nonlinear bottom friction computed from an efficient approximation
Lateral mixing is modeled with an eddy viscosity that depends on the local wave
orbital velocity and wave height
Revised to describe both depth- and steepness-limited wave breaking
Uses similar formulation to quantify energy dissipation produced by these two types
of breaking
Provides for an external (large-scale) current in addition to the wave- and
wind-driven currents
NEW Wave Roller Model breaker-induced turbulence - generates a momentum flux
before energy dissipation occurs

Data Requirements
Beach profile
Waves & Wind
Direction, Period, Speed
Regular or random

Model Setup
# cells, Xstart, Dx, Dref

Empirical Parameters
Various coefficients

External Current
Constant or variable

Waves and Wind

Model Setup

Zwref: Wave direction at the reference depth.

M: Number of cells in offshore grid

TA: Absolute wave period of the incident waves

absence of a current

Xstart: 1st active calculation point

Zwind: Wind direction from which the wind blows

W: Wind speed
Regular waves: constant height, period, and direction
Random waves: random in height obeying a Rayleigh
Distribution, but with fixed direction and period.

Dx: Distance between calculation

points (dx)
Dref: Reference depth the depth
which offshore information is
calculated and boundary values
Dtide: Offset in mean water level

Empirical Parameters
Cf (Cf): Bottom friction coefficient (0.005 - 0.015)
Lammix (): Eddy viscosity coefficient (length
velocity 0.15 0.5)
Gamst (): Coefficient controlling the depth at
which a wave will be stable and not break
or decay as broken wave (typical 0.4)
Gambr ( b): Breaker index controls depth-limited
breaking of individual waves (typical 0.78)
Kappa (): Coefficient controlling decay of a depthlimited broken wave in the model of Dally, Dean, and
Dalrymple (typical 0.15)
If the Dally & Brown roller model is used (recommended),
two additional coefficients are required:

R: Coefficient related roller speed and wave speed

[ C = R Cr ] (of order 1)
D: Wave dissipation coefficient (about 0.1)

External Current

URLS and URCS: External longshore current and

cross-shore current, respectively at the reference
depth. URLS is directed positively in a right-handed
coordinate system with the current moving
alongshore, and URCS is directed positively for a
current moving offshore.
Use constant currents: If constant currents are
specified, values are given in the boxes with signs
according to the discussion above.
Use variable currents: If the Constant current box
is unchecked, then longshore and cross-shore
currents with distributions across shore are

Visser 1 tank test with and without the

roller model use the Hold Hand icon
to overlay plots

NEMOS System Components &

Typical Procedures


Wave, Wind, & Water Level Editor

WIS Phase III Transformation
Wave Statistical Analysis and Visualization
Spectra Generation
Grid Generation
Wave Model Visualization
Tidal Current Editor

Procedures for Shoreline Change Modeling

Develop Offshore Wave

Time Series

Import to NEMOS
Statistically Analyse

Develop Input for Wave


Grid generation
Input spectra

Develop Input for Wave Model

Import bathymetry data, triangulate, inspect/modify,
define grid region, generate grid, inspect/modify,
save Spatial Domain file. Specify station locations,
inspect/modify, sort stations, save Station file.
GRIDGEN allows automated station selection and
GENESIS grid generation save GENESIS
Spatial Domain file.

Configure Wave Model

Model Settings / File associations
Develop Input for GENESIS
Configuration / Set-up
Input /for
Simulate / Forecast
Wave Time Series, WWWL
Simulation title, units, Start/End dates,
Import wave information, transform (WISPH3),
time step, animation time step.
filter, statistically analyze (WSAV), save Permutations
Offshore & nearshore wave, printable
file, generate input spectra (SPECGEN), save
output, and visualization file associations.
Spectrum file.
Beach, sand, & transport specifications
Configure Model, STWAVE
Boundary conditions
Spatial Domain
Title, wind, and water level specifications, input and
Shoreline Position Information import,
output file associations, save Configuration file.
coordinate transformation, model reach
Simulate, visualize (WMV).
Structures position in grid, length,
permeability, transmission, etc.
Engineering activities beach fill, bypassing, etc.

Construct a STWAVE model grid and a GENESIS gri

within GRIDGEN
The example chosen is a location on the coast of Spain.


GRID Generation using GRIDGEN Steps for importing data

Import JUCAR bathymetry into GRIDGEN File
JUCAR_bathyxyz.txt as
Select Import
Local1 [first
GRIDGEN and right click on screen].
3 Specify

2 - Select file
and type

4 Enter metadata

5 - Raw data appears

on screen right
click and triangulate

Depress the two
buttons shown
by the arrow 7
to remove the
display of points
and cells of the
grid triangles


the bathymetry data are imported into GRIDGEN the
grid is constructed by manually specifying the same origin
coordinates, axes length, and azimuth as shown below for
the JUCAR example case.
Right click and

select Build Uniform

Grid. The grid is
constructed manually
with the STWAVE
origin at:
Xo = 739885.841
Yo = 4338149.85
Rx = 1575 m
Ry = 3675 m
Azimuth = 255
Grid origins were
determined from a
cartographic layout
of the project area

Next, shoreline points are imported into GRIDGEN Fi

JUCARshoreline19570601.XY this is a text file
[shoreline points can be imported before or after grid con

Button for displaying

shoreline points
Right click select Import
Data and choose file and type

GENESIS auto-grid generation requires you to design the wave model grid to e
enough to include the desired GENESIS origin. The Create GENESIS Grid butt
click the mouse at the desired location of Cell Wall 1 in the GENESIS grid (red
origin will lie dx away. Cell Wall 1 is forced to coincide with the center of a w
coordinates are computed and appear in a dialog box that requires the GENESI
contour depth where stations are to be placed, and the frequency of station pla
First magnify the
area where the
GENESIS origin
will be selected.
Then click the
desired location
of cell wall 1 this
brings up the
dialog box. The
GENESIS origin is
already computed
enter values for dx,
X-axis length,
contour depth for
Stations, and placement frequency.

of the GENESIS

Adjusting location of Station Points selected by GRIDGEN

Automated selection of
Station Points
Adjust by clicking on a
Station Point and dragging
it to the desired location

Final GENESIS grid and Station Points.

Adjustments can be made to any area of
the grid by releasing the Zoom and
re-magnifying the desired area.

Final grid for running STWAVE showing all station points and
Zoom in on the bathymetry display to see overlay of GENESIS
grid. Export the wave
model Spatial Domain file (, Station file
(, and
the GENESIS Spatial Domain file (

Final grids and

Station Points

Export all necessary files

STWAVE: Configuration file



Wind specifications
Water level

Tidal current

Parent / Nested grid


Configuration Tab

SPECGEN - Preparation for running STWAVE

For the JUCAR example problem only one year of wave data were available. These
data were analyzed using WSAV to identify 67 different wave height, period, and
direction combinations that represent wave action in the project area. WSAV produces
a permutation file of wave conditions that is used by SPECGEN to derive input spectra
for STWAVE. Sufficient bins are specified to properly represent spectral conditions.



Controls Frequency Spread

Event 30102

Controls Direction Spread

Wave frequency increases

with distance from center

STWAVE simulation
STWAVE requires several files the example problem
only requires spatial domain, spectrum, field, station, and
print files. In the example JUCAR problem, the files are:

Invoke WMV to view results

after run completion

First save the STWAVE

Configuration file and
initiate the simulation
by clicking

Input files
Output files

Station file is both Input & Output

Select event

Wave Model Visualization - WMV

Input files for Field and Station

Select primary data set

to be viewed

Setup Wizard
Draw Station Locations
Plot Station Data

Wave height contours

Bathymetry isolines
Wave direction vectors

Steps in running GENESIS

The first step is to open a new GENESIS file and import the
GENESIS Spatial Domain file that was saved in GRIDGEN.
Much of the data required by GENESIS have already been
developed in GRIDGEN. You need to complete and save the
configuration file and set conditions for Structures, Bypass,
Beach fills, Sand/Beach/Transport, and Boundary Conditions.
The Coordinate System geo-reference data have already been
computed and passed to GENESIS.
File and open
imported by GRIDGEN and passed
Spatial Domain file: for the example
case to obtain:

Initiate GENESIS

GENESIS setup - import reference or background shorelines

Select Edit/Shorelines/Initial [or Reference]
The initial GENESIS shoreline was interpolated for model application and passed
to GENESIS by GRIDGEN. For the JUCAR example, a 1965 shoreline is imported
as a reference or target for calibration results. Shoreline data are imported via
File/Import X-Y pairs; next select Edit/Coordinate transformation to convert the imported data into the local GENESIS coordinate system - the proper transformation coordinates are already loaded. Select Edit/Model Reach preparation to prepare the target
reference shoreline.
Displayed below are
both the original
and target reference
shoreline 8 years
later. Calibration
efforts will attempt
to reproduce the
1965 observations.
Initial shoreline

Reference shoreline

GENESIS setup enter boundary conditions

Regional contours were
not used in this example.
See Help file for proper use
of adjustment factors and
interpolation settings. Shown
are default settings used in
the JUCAR example.

Settings for JUCAR

example gated with
a groin on the left and
a moving boundary on
the right

GENESIS simulation
Save Configuration file
Save GENESIS Spatial Domain file
Simulate by clicking

GENESIS visualization
The graphical workspace can be exported
Additional Plan View Selections
Color / View options
Shoreline comparison plots
Transport rate plots
Animation of shoreline evolution
View printed output

GENESIS results at end of simulation

Shoreline has retreated to near the measured

1965 shoreline

Last exposure
from animated
shoreline evolution

Shoreline comparison

Transport rate plot


Regional Contour Trend in GENESIS

Specification of regional, stationary offshore features for transforming waves in the internal
GENESIS wave module is used to aid determination of the long-term equilibrium planform
of highly crenulated beaches in the absence of coastal structures. The pre-specified contour
is supposed to reflect the impact of features and processes that are otherwise not represented
in the GENESIS simulations.
Sample illustration of measured shoreline
and the associated regional trend

Use of variable transmission requires

input of a water level file created within


D is t a n c e F r o m B a s e lin e ( m )

Variable Transmission Breakwater


M e a s u r e d S h o r e lin e
R e g io n a l T r e n d



D is t a n c e A lo n g s h o r e ( m )


Tidal Currents
Tidal currents may come from
measurements or from an application
of a hydrodynamic model.

Wave Statistical Analysis & Visualization - WSAV

WSAV is used to analyze a set of wave conditions for usual wave statistics. In WSAV, open Wave
Component and import the nocalm file saved in WWWL. Use the Edit pull-down menu to first
choose Band Limits to set range bands of Height, Period, and Direction ; then Analyze to compute
the statistics.
If you have more than one wave component, they are
loaded separately. Statistics are computed for the
total wave.

After bands are assigned, clicking

Analyze runs the analysis program.

Assign bands for

H, T, and



Block Diagram

In the sample data the total number of occurrences add up
to 2601. Periods greater than 22 sec were filtered. There
are several ways to display statistics in WSAV, however,
this block diagram gives a good description and tells you
that the selection of bands chosen resulted in 29 cases to
run with a wave model, each case representative of the
possible periods and direction out of the 1-year population
that may cause sediment transport.
The next advisable step is to review these results in the
WWWL editor. The wave heights are assigned a unit
value to make estimation of the shoaling coefficient
intuitive. If substantial breaking is expected prior to
waves reaching shore, height bands should be applied.
Note that the permutation file is indexed rather than
time related. If these wave conditions are used to drive
GENESIS, an index look-up scheme is used to assign wave
Conditions, based on the incident wave time series, at each
station point fronting the beach.

The next step is to use these results to run


Output from WSAV

WSAV produces a 29-component permutation file for use in either RCPWAVE or
SPECGEN and STWAVE. The Permutation File for the 29-component run:
Local Polar :
WSAV print file : D0_wsav.wsv
The file: which is in Shore_Reference 3 would be brought into WWWL
and a conversion to Local Polar [or Shore_Reference 1] made to be able to use these data as
the incident wave time series to drive GENESIS. However, there is no constraint in GENESIS and
the convention of the incident wave file will be adjusted to fit GENESIS.

Permutation file integer indexed

30201 Angle band 3
Period band 2
Height band 1


Nested Grids in STWAVE and GRIDGEN


To use a nested grid in STWAVE, first develop both parent and nested grid in GRDIGEN.
The example below was constructed using the JUCAR data. The parent grid is shown
click the Nested Grid tool and generate
the nested domain in a similar manner as
constructing the parent grid. Here the
parent grid has a resolution of 25 m and
the nested grid 10 m. The nested grid
can be constructed graphically (clicking
the mouse at locations 1, 2, & 3) or
manually. Designated stations
adjacent to the nested-grid ocean
boundary are automatically
selected by the code. Spectra will
be saved at each of the designated
stations when the parent grid is
run. The code forces you to save
the spatial domain file for the
nested grid.

stations in RED

Storm-induced BEAch
Simulates cross-shore beach, berm, and dune erosion
Applied in beach fill project design and evaluation
Based on equilibrium beach profile concept
Features include:
Sediment transport model
Breaking wave model

Monochromatic & irregular

Calculates runup , wave-ind

setup, and dune overwas

Seawalls & non-erodible ha

Interacts with BMAP for
profile analysis

SBEACH Input Requirements

Import / enter profile data

Import / enter storm data in the example there

are data for wave height, period, and water
elevation program will use whatever data are

SBEACH - Configuration

Grid structure


Model coefficients
Sediment transport

Model Output

Wave Height
Water Elevation
Profile Shape
Max Values
Volume Change

Results sent to
BMAP for

Global export options

Regional Morphology Analysis Package - RMAP

Collection of automated and interactive tools to analyze morphologic and dynamic
properties of shoreline data and beach profiles. RMAP is dynamically linked with
SBEACH to support
beach erosion analysis.
Pictured are example
results from an
equilibrium beach
profile analysis.
Shoreline and profiles
can be entered
manually or imported.
RMAP organizes its
data into subgroups
of the project.
2D Chart graphics are
used in RMAP

RMAP Toolbars
File options


Profile Analysis

Zoom controls

Profile &

Program optionsBFM Tools


View Toggle

Map Tools
Map properties
Draw shoreline
Draw baseline
Draw annotation
Selection rectangle
Select all
View map items

Averages displayed
Bar properties
shoreline or profile
Profile comparison
Cut and fill
Interpolated shoreline
Horizontal alignment
or profile
Least-square estimate
Translate shoreline
Transport rate
or profile
Profile volume
Combine two shorelines
Volume from Xon to Xoff
or profiles
Beach fill placement
Generate equilibrium profile
Mean shoreline
Generate modified equilibrium profile
Shoreline statistics
Generate plane sloping profile
Smooth shoreline
Shoreline change rate

Shoreline Analysis

Select shorelines
In map view

Draw or import

Select shoreline
change tool,
specify baseline
sampling interval

Shoreline Change Products

Basic stats

Change rate along baseline

Geospatial change rate map

Map Mode

Beach Morphology Analysis Package - BMAP

Collection of automated and interactive tools to analyze morphologic and dynamic
properties of beach profiles. BMAP is dynamically linked with SBEACH to support
beach erosion analysis.
While both BMAP and
SBEACH were opened,
results from SBEACH
for Reach3 were sent
to BMAP here a
comparison is made
between the Final &
Measured profiles.
Profiles can be entered
manually or imported.
BMAP organizes its
data into subgroups
of the project.
2D Chart graphics are
used in BMAP

BMAP Tools



Averages displayed profiles

Bar properties
Profile comparison
Cut and fill
Horizontal alignment
Least-square estimate
Translate profiles
Transport rate
Profile volume
Volume from Xon to Xoff
Beach fill placement
Generate equilibrium profile
Interpolated profile

Generate modified equilibriu

Generate plane sloping profile
Combine two profiles

Analyze morphologic / dynamic properties of beach profiles


Additional tools in BMAP

Planform Evolution Model

Veri-Tech, Inc.
P.O. Box 820109
Vicksburg, MS 39182-0109

Check out web site at

for latest price on CEDAS and CEM 2.01 PE

Lee Butler Principal Officer