Definition

• Articles with mild action on the human body,

which are intended to be applied to the human
body through rubbing, sprinkling or other
methods, aiming to clean, beautify and increase
the attractiveness, alter the appearance or to keep
the skin or hair in good condition.

• This word is derived from Greek word “Kosmeticos”

meaning to adorn, to make up.
Additives in Cosmetics
• emollients,

• waxes,

• oils,

• humectants,

• preservatives,

• binders,

• surfactants,

• colors and

• perfumes
 Emollients
• Emollients, or moisturizers, help keep the skin moist and
supple by reducing water loss from the epidermis, the outer
layer of skin.

• They provide a protective film..

• Modern emollients include petrolatum, zinc oxide,

paraffin, mineral oil, glycerin, beeswax, olive oil, coconut oil,
lanolin, cocoa butter, and such synthetics as butyl stearate
and diglycol laurate.
• An emollient is a humectant, a lubricant, and an occluder.
Occlusion puts a layer of oil on the skin's surface, slowing down
water loss. A humectant enhances the surface of the skin's capacity
to hold water. A lubricant reduces friction when anything rubs
against the skin.

• Emollients include a large variety of compounds with softening and

smoothing properties.

• Emollients show very good spreadability on the skin and provide a

satiny, smooth and non-greasy feel to the skin. Typically, they are
non-comedogenic, non-allergic and non-irritant.
 Classification Emollients
• Medicated or non-medicated.
• Non-medicated topical emollients or moisturizers contain occlusive agents(
fat soluble emollients), and humectants( water soluble emollient).

• Emollients offer an occlusive barrier and they smooth flaky skin cells, to
make the skin look smoother. Some spread more easily than others. Esters
and oils can be used.

• Emollients has three basic actions:

• Occlusion - Occlusive agents coat the skin, forming a physical barrier that
prevents the loss of water. EX- Petrolatum, waxes, oils, and silicones.

• They can be uncomfortable on the skin, so they may be combined with an

emollient

• Humectants - include ingredients such as glycerin, urea and pyrrolidine

carboxylic acid. They attract water from the atmosphere and from the lower
layers of skin to moisturize the surface of the skin.
 • Medicated Emollients

• Some emollients contain specially medicated formulas that

can be used to treat skin conditions such as: eczema: a long-
term (chronic) skin condition that causes the skin to become
reddened, dry, itchy and cracked, psoriasis: a chronic non-
infectious skin condition that causes red, flaky patches of
skin
 Waxes
• Waxes form an important group of ingredients forthe
manufacture of personal care products and decorative
cosmetics.
• Chemically, waxes are complex mixtures of heavy
hydrocarbons and fatty acids combined with esters.
• The modern scientific requirement of a wax is that it is not a
glyceride. Glycerides are fats which are still close relatives of
waxes.
• Waxes are harder, less greasy and more brittle than fats, and
are very resistant to moisture, oxidization and microbial
attack.
 Beeswax
• Beeswax is the purified wax from the honeycomb of the bee Apis Mellifera.

• For each eight pounds of honey made by the bee, one pound of wax is
produced.

• There are two grades available, yellow(natural) and bleached beeswax.

• The primary component of beeswax are esters (more than70%) of which

myricyl palmitate forms the main part. The remaining 30 % are free wax
acids and hydrocarbons.

• Beeswax comes usually as white flakes with a faint honey odor.

• It is soluble in oils and warm alcohol, but insoluble in water or cold alcohol.

• Beeswax is used primarily as thickener and emollient, but has also

emulsifying properties.

• It is used in a large variety of cosmetic products such as creams, lotions,

pomades, balms, ointments, lipsticks, mascara, foundations, or eye
shadows.
 Carnauba Wax
• Carnauba wax comes from the leaves of the Brazilian palm Copernicia

Cerifera.

• It is the hardest natural wax known, with a melting point above 80 o C

(176oF).

• These properties make carnauba wax very unique and often carnauba wax is

used mainly for its hardness and high melting point.

• Carnauba wax contains more esters (about 85%)but less wax acids (2-3%)

compared to beeswax

• Carnaubawax is therefore an important ingredient for solidsticks (e.g.

lipsticks) to prevent them from meltingat higher temperatures (e.g. upon sun

exposure).
 Candelilla Wax
• Candelilla wax is produced from the stems of the Mexican

weed Euphorbia Cerifera.

• Candelilla wax consists of only 35% esters, but of more than

50% hydrocarbons.

• It is therefore less hard and softer than carnauba wax, but

can still raise the melting point of stick cosmetics.

• Candelilla wax also gives a nice gloss to lipsticks.

 Jojoba Wax
• Often jojoba wax is called jojoba oil because it is liquid.

• It is extracted from the desert shrub Buxus Chinensis found in the

southwestern USA.

• Jojoba oil can be hydrogenated to make a hard, white wax with a

melting point above 70oC.

• However, the liquid wax form is used much more often in cosmetics.

• Jojoba wax is an excellent moisturizer (prevents transdermal water

loss) and emollient.

• Since it does not form a film on the skin but penetrates into the skin,
it is also used as anti-wrinkle agent.

• Jojoba wax also protects partly from UV rays (SPF about 4).

• Liquid jojoba wax is used in a large variety of personal care products

 Ozokerite
• Ozokerite is a naturally occurring mineral wax originally
mined in Eastern Europe.
• It is insoluble in alcohol and has a relatively high
melting point depending on the composition of the wax.
• Similar to carnauba wax, ozokerite is often used in stick
products to prevent softening and melting.
• Ozokerite is also very useful in creams due to its
thickening and emulsifying properties
 Petrolatum (Vaseline)
• Petrolatum is a semi-solid wax consisting of purified hydrocarbons
obtained from petroleum.

• Better known as Vaseline, petrolatum has been on the market for

several decades already.

• The melting point of Vaseline is only about 35-50oC and thus lower
than other waxes.

• It comes as translucent paste and is odorless, well dispersible in

oils, and soluble in hot alcohol.

• Vaseline is an excellent emollient and lubricant but is also used as

modifying agent to add viscosity to cosmetic products
Wax Source Components
Beeswax Purified wax from The primary component of beeswax are
the honeycomb of esters (more than70%) of which myricyl
the bee Apis palmitate forms the main part. The
Mellifera remaining 30 % are free wax acids and
hydrocarbons.
Carnauba leaves of the contains more esters (about 85%)but
Wax Brazilian palm less wax acids (2-3%) compared to
(hardest Copernicia Cerifera. beeswax
known wax)
Candelilla produced from the Candelilla wax consists of only 35%
Wax stems of the esters, but of more than 50%
Mexican weed hydrocarbons.
Euphorbia Cerifera.
Jojoba Wax desert shrub Buxus Jojoba oil has fatty acids including
Chinensis ferulic acid, docosenoic acid, 11-
Eicosenoic acid, oleic acid,
docosdienoic acid, palmitoleic acid,
erucic acid and 9-Godoelic acid.

Spermaceti: Spermaceti is no longer used in cosmetics after the ban

on sperm whales.
 Oils
 Oils- two types

 Vegetable oils

 Mineral oils

 Vegetable oils

Consists of triglycerides- three hydroxyl groups of glycerol

esterified with same or mixed triglycerides of other fatty
acids.
 Vegetable oils

 Almond oil- pale yellow oil, consists of glycerides of oleic

acid,linoleic acid,myrstic and palmitic acid.Used in creams and

lotions.

 Arachis oil- pale yellow oil with faint nutty odour. Consists of

glycerides of oleic acid,linoleic acid.At low temp it solidifies.Used in

hair oils.

 Castor oil- faintly yellow. Consists of 80% ricinoleic acid. Used in

hair oils,creams,lotions.

 Olive oil – Pale yellow or greenish yellow oil. Consists of glycerides

of oleic acid, palmitic acid, lenolic acid, stearic acid and myristic

acid. At low temp. it solidifies. Used in bath oils, creams, oils.

Coconut oil-
 Mineral oils
 Light liquid paraffin
Mixture of liquid hydrocarbon. Lower viscocity,
colorless and odorless oily liquid. Good spreading agent.
Used in bath oils, hair oils, lotions, creams
 Heavy liquid paraffin
Mixture of hydrocarbons. Colourless and odourless.
Emolient in nature. Used in creams, lotions, hair oil,
bath oil.
* Mineral oil more stable than vegetable oil.
(10 ppm tocopherol /BHT used as stabilizer)
 Preservatives
• Used to prevent spoilage of cosmetic products

• Spoilage of cosmetics due to

 Oxidation of oils and fats

 Microbial growth

• Water is the prime ingredient-promotes growth of microbial growth

 Organic acids- Benzoic acid,p-OH Benzoic acid,Formic acid

 Alcohols-Ethyl alcohol, chlorobutanol, Isopropyl alcohol

 Aldehydes –formaldehyde

 Phenolic compounds-Cresol, phenol

 Esters –Methyl p-OH Benzoate, Ethyl p-OH Benzoate

 Mercuric compounds-Thiomersol, Nitromersol

 Surface active agent –Benzathonium chloride

 Misc. Compound –Vanilin, Ethyl vanillin

 COLORS
• A term used to describe color imparting substances.

• Colors are classified as

– Dyes: Soluble in medium

– Pigments: Insoluble in medium but uniformly distributes in media

– Lakes: Lakes are the dyes which are precipitated by addition of

metallic salty like aluminium.

– Chrome: imparts shine

– Opacifier: imparts opacity

– Micas: Colors used for shining, sparkling appearance

Natural Color

Inorganic Colors
 Perfumes
• Mixture of fragrance, essential oil, aroma compounds, and
solvents used to give human body or any object a pleasant smell.

• Natural Ingredients:
– Flowers: Rose, Jasmine, Tuberose

– Fruits: Orange, Lemon, Grape fruit

– Seeds: Coriander, Caraway, Anise

– Wood: Sandalwood, Rodewood

– Resin: Peru Balsma, Gum benzoin

– Leaves: Citrus leaves

– Animals: Musk, ambergris, castor