Fabric Inspection

Jimmy K.C. Lam The Hong Kong Polytechnic University

Fabric Inspection
Why, when and where  Inspection Systems 

± Four-Point System Four± Ten-Point System Ten-

Inspection Condition  Sampling  Acceptance Level 

Fabric Inspection (I) When. why.  10% check will give buyer some ideas of his product quality  25% check maybe necessary for new supplier  3% check maybe enough for a proven record supplier  .000 yds fabric)  Buyer wants to assure the product quality he ordered. where Producer likes to know the quality of his products (says quality for 500.

middle and late production. different lot and different time  Inspector must use a packing list and select different bales on different place  The samples should be selected from early.Fabric Inspection (II) Fabric inspection must be selected randomly  The fabric sample must be selected from different place.  .

used in garment pieces .Inspection Standards  Ten Point System ± Oldest and most used in woven finished fabric  Four point System ± Widely adopted and used in knitted fabric  The Graniteville¶78 System ± major and minor types.

Ten Point System .

Ten Point System The earliest inspection system and is designed to identify defects and to assign each defect a value based on severity of defect  Published in 1955 by Textile Distributors Institute and National Federation of Textiles  .

Ten Points System (Woven)  Warp Defects ± ± ± ± 10-36 inches 105-10 inches 1-5 inches up to 1 inch 10 points 5 points 3 points 1 point  Weft Defects ± ± ± ± Full width 10 points 5 inches to half width 5 points 1-5 inches 3 points up to 1 inch 1 point .

regardless of type.Ten Point System Standards for examination of finished goods (woven mainly)  Penalties to be assigned for imperfection of warp and weft defects  Grading is designed to apply to every imperfection according to size.  . any piece of grey which contains less than 50% more penalty points than yardage may be passed for printed fabric.  For print cloth.

Ten Point System (Note) No one yard should be penalized more than 10 points  Any warp or weft defect occurring repeatedly throughout the entire piece makes it ³second´  A combination of both warp and weft defects when occurring in one yarn should not be penalized more than 10 points  .

 ³Second Quality´ ± A piece is graded a ³second´ if the total penalty points exceed the total yardage of the piece. .Ten Point System Grading  ³First Quality´ ± A piece is graded as ³first´ if the total quality points do not exceed the total yardage of the piece. Eg. 100 yard piece got the penalized of 70.

Four Point System .

 It was endorsed by federal government for military inspection and American Apparel Manufacturers Association  .Four Point System It was published in 1959 by the National Association of Shirt Pajama Sportswear Manufacturers  It got the biggest support for American Society for Quality Control.

Four Point Systems Knitted Fabric      Grading of fabric quality according to penalty points Penalty points are based on the length of defects measured in inch. Fabric inspection is only on one side of fabric and is based on fabric width of 64-66 inches (knitted fabric) 64Four penalty points per linear yarn up to 64/66 inches in width The quality shall be expressed in the number of penalty points per 100 yarn length .

Commerical K itted abric Gradi g ystem. ength of the defect in the fabric in either length or width Up to 3 inches Over 3 inches to 6 inches Over 6 inches to 9 inches Over 9 inches Points allotted 1 2 3 4 . Fabric defects is penaltized by maximum of 4 points. our oi t ystem Four Point System is adopted byAmerican Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) for piece goods knitted fabric.

Commerical Acceptance Levels for efect points : abric y iruclar. Warp nit) Tricot B ic Circular Faced Finish Circular Novelty Circular Basic Raschel Raised Surface Raschel Noverty Raschel Silver r First uality oints 100 inear Yards not over 0 not over 50 not over 0 not over 70 to 85 not over 0 not over 50 not over 0 not over 50 r . V ully ashion.

Four Point Systems (others) All products sold must be have the following properties:  Grey Goods:  ± construction ± blend ± width ± weight Finished Goods  Buyer must inform seller on any particular condition of goods  .

the points per 100 square yards is : ± (100X3600)/(72X100) =50 .fabric width is 72 inches.g inspected 100 yards fabric and got 100 penalty points.Calculation  Points per 100 square yards = ± (Total points scored X 3600)/ (Cloth width in inches X yards examined)  e.

The Graniteville µ78 System .

depending on its location in the end use item  .  The system divided defects into major and minor types  The major defect was one which was very obvious and lead the goods to second quality  The minor defect was one may or may not have caused garment to second.Graniteville¶78 System It was introduced in 1975 for the field of fabric grading.

78 System Point Penalty Point Assignment of Graniteville¶78  Defect Length Penalty Points  ± 9´ ± 9´-18´ 9´± 18´-27´ 18´± 27´-36´ 27´- 1 2 3 4 .

 .Notes PointsThe principle was established in garment cutting piece. which the short length defects (less than 9´) will normally be removed. 3 The system tend to eliminate very small defects from the total penalty score.  The system tries to balance the importance of longer defects (over 9´) and put less weight on 1110´ defects such as slubs  The system also suggests the viewing distance of 9 foot instead of normal 3-foot viewing distance.78 Points.

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