WEAVES ,THEIR VARIATIONS, PROPERTIES & THEIR APPLICATIONS

By: Madhu Kumari Tanvi Mishra

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We would like to express our thanks to Ms. Yashoda Kumari for her guidance and help. Furthermore we are grateful to the college Resource Centre which provided us with the necessary material for the presentation. Finally we would like to thank our classmates for their patience and support.

DEFINITION

Weaving : The interlacing of two sets of yarns, warp and weft, at right angles. Warp yarns are those which lie lengthwise & Weft yarns lie widthwise of the selvage

REPRESENTATION OF WEAVES Draft: Represents the number of harnesses used in the making of the weave. Peg Plan: Indicates the repetitive pattern that occurs at intervals in the weave. .

WEAVES CLASSIFICATION Basic Weaves Plain Weave Basket Weave 2×2 4×4 Rib Weave Crosswise Vertical Twill Weave Satin Weave Right Hand Left Hand Warp Faced Filling Faced Broken Reverse Warp Faced Filling Faced .

Taffeta. Requires only two harnesses. Fresco. The repeat is over two ends and two picks. Yields the strongest fabric.PLAIN WEAVE Simplest and Tightest method of interlacing. Interlacing is opposite in each neighboring cells. Muslin. Voile. . Examples : Batiste. Donegal. Each warp yarn passes alternately over and under each weft. Honan. Opposite sides of the fabric are the same. Cambric.

Plain Weave Examples of Plain Weave Batiste Muslin Cambric .

Commercial Styles: ottoman.broad cloth.VARIATIONS OF PLAIN WEAVE Rib Weave: surface shows raised lines or ridges. high weft density. rib. not a very common fabric. high density of warp ends. faille and poplin -Weft Rib: runs through the length of the cloth. unbalanced fabric -Warp Rib: runs across the fabric width. finer warp yarn covers fabric surface. . Abrades quickly. Filling yarns are thicker than warp yarns. bengaline . taffeta.

Rib Weave Example of Rib Weave Ottoman .

Examples:. poor shape retention.) Basket Weave: groups of two or more warp yarns interlacing as one yarn with groups of two or more filling yarns that also interlace as one yarn. porous. Hopsacking.. coarse.VARIATIONS OF PLAIN WEAVE (CONTD. Oxford cloth. flat weave effect Not durable and easily shrink Difficult to sew .Monk·s cloth. 2×2 basket weave is the most common Decorative. snags easily.

Basket Weave 1×2 4×4 2×2 Example of Basket Weave Hopsack .

. tweed. Produces diagonal lines( Z or S) on the fabric.TWILL WEAVE Created by floats between interlacing points which move one cell upwards/downwards on adjacent threads. On the back twill direction is the opposite. tricotine. Smallest repeat size: 3 warp & 3 weft Two Types : Warp Faced & Weft Faced. Can be made soft or loose and twill lines can be made more prominent . drill. Examples : cavalry. serge. whipcord. gaberdine. diagonal. denim.

Twill Weave Examples of Twill Weave Cavalry Tweed .

sheeting . Commercial Names: Twill . Broad Twills: show a very broad twill line. face and back are similar with opposite twill directions. warp floats usually cover more than two cells and weft floats at least two. Commercial Names: Diagonals and Cavalry. Can be balanced/unbalanced. Balanced Twills: warp and weft floats are of equal sizes. weft faced or balanced.VARIATIONS OF TWILL WEAVE Diagonals: larger twills with two or more twill lines of different width. Can be warp faced.

Waved Twill: by changing the direction of the twill line at regular interval a wave or zigzag effect can be created. . twills display a twill line of about 45°. Flattened Twill: usually weft faced which means that twill line is formed by the weft yarn. Herringbone: made by reversing the direction of the twill at regular intervals.DEVELOPMENT OF TWILL WEAVES Steep Twill: equal density of warp and weft. Broken Twill: are formed by reversing the pattern part way through the repeat.

Waved Twill Herringbone Broken Twill Steep Twill .

Double/Cavalry Twill Corkscrew Twill Right-hand Twill (Mock Up) Left Hand Twill Mock Up .

75° : 4 Filling Yarns Higher 76° : 3 Filling Yarns Higher 63° : 2 Filling Yarns Higher 45° : 1 Filling Yarns Higher 27° : 2 Filling Yarns Higher 26° : 3 Filling Yarns Higher 15° : 4 Filling Yarns Higher .

satin. Uniform and Lustrous. Satins are Warp/Weft Faced. But the warp end interlace only once per repeat which results in Long Floats. . Repeats over at least 5 ends and 5 picks. Sateen is Weft faced. Commercial Names: Atlas. Smooth. duchesse.SATIN/SATEEN WEAVE Uniform distribution of the interlacing which are never adjacent to one another. sateen. venetian. Face and the Back look different. doeskin.

Satin Weave Sateen Weave .

Examples of Satin/Sateen Duchesse Satin Atlas Venetian .

Faconne. Damask. Satin Faconne. Chiffon with Satin Stripes . Figured Jacquard. .DEVELOPMENTS OF SATIN WEAVE Few variations because interlacing must not be allowed to come close together Patterning is achieved by arranging for interchanging areas of sateen & satin on a Plain/Twill background. Examples : Satin Stripe.

Developments of Satin Weave Damask Satin Stripes Figured Jacquard .

SPECIAL WEAVES CLASSIFICATION Complex Or Novelty Weaves Jacquard Weave Double Cloth Weave Leno Weave Double Faced Double Back Figure Weave Lappet Weave Spot Weave Swivel Weave Piqué/Cord Weave French Back Dobby Weave Gauze Weave Thermo Weave .

.DOUBLE CLOTH A single ply fabric made by two sets of filling and one set of warp yarn or two set of warp and one set of filling yarn.

squares. dots. diamonds. small floral. Patterns are referred to as birdseye. dotted or geometric weave produced with a dobby attachment . honeycomb .DOBBY WEAVE A flat or raised. nailhead. Dull and shiny surface effects.

producing two fabrics with two distinct faces.DOUBLE FACED CLOTH A woven or knitted fabric constructed with more than one set of warp & filling yarns. .

FIGURE WEAVE Ornamental embroidered effects are produced by adding additional warp/filling yarns at regular intervals during weaving. .

which produces an additional plain woven end into the plain woven background .LAPPET WEAVE A figure/embroidery weave design produced by a needle on the loom.

SPOT/DOT/CLIPPED SPOT WEAVE Method of producing decorative designs & patterns on the entire width/length of the fabric in predetermined areas. .

circles or squares on the surface of the fabric.SWIVEL WEAVE A method of producing decorative dots. .

. Patterns can incorporate any of the three weaves or their combinations.JACQUARD WEAVE Comprises of complicated patterns.

BIBLIOGRAPHY Clothing Technology : Europa Lehr-Mittal Fabric Science: Puzzartto Understanding Fabrics Pictures: Google. Understanding Fabrics .

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