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GARMENT FINISHING &

TESTING
[ FABRIC & GARMENT FINISHING ]

Submitted to : Mr. Samuel Wesely


Submitted by :
Amit Tanwar
Hemant Pandey
Praveen Pratap
Praween Tiru
SPOTTING
 Paint, Oil and Grease (POG) spotting
agents are used to remove spots from
garments by professional textile
cleaners.
 They are sprayed on spots before and
after garments are processed through
the garment cleaning machine.
 POG spotting agents containing
trichloroethylene (TCE) and per-
chloroethylene (PERC) are used widely
by the garment cleaning industry .
SPOTTING PROCESSES
HAZARDS
 TCE and PERC are carcinogens and
are heavily regulated in
California.Spotters and other
employees in garment cleaning
plants are exposed to these
dangerous chemicals
 Use of these spotting agents will
make the waste streams generated
by the non-PERC garment cleaning
processes hazardous .
FOLDING
 Creases result from applying pressure to folds.
 If we wrap a piece of paper around a cylinder, it will be easy to
straighten again. If we make a fold in the paper, it will be more
difficult. If we apply pressure along the fold, the crease will be
even more pronounced. Clothing is no different.

IMPROPER FOLDING

 1) folds that will "set", producing creases, and


 2) garments moving (rubbing) against one another, producing
wrinkles (tiny folds) in the fabric, that will also "set".
 The oft-suggested trick of wrapping individual clothing items in
plastic dry-cleaning bags or tissue paper helps to reduce wrinkling
(problem 2, above), but does nothing about the creases.
 Another popular suggestion, that of rolling clothing, reduces — 
though does not eliminate — the number of folds (problem 1), but
usually increases wrinkling.
SHIRT FOLDING MACHINE
 This machine is specially designed for the
packing of shirts. The main benefit of this
table is correct and smooth shaping of
shirt collars and easy packing. It has the
capacity of giving an output of 300 to 400
shirts per shift of 8 hrs.
FEATURES : 

- Competitive price
- Adjustable head for choosing collar size.
- Button guard for perfect center line and
elegant shirt fold
- Pressed shirt collar to be round and
smooth
- Stainless steel folding plate.
ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY
 Sensors will detect clear materials
All motors are controlled by frequency
inverters to ensure:

- Precise folds
- Smooth start of all drive systems
- Reduced maintenance by eliminating the
need for brake motors
JAM-PREVENTION SYSTEM
 The folder will automatically reject any missed
piece that is likely to result in a jam in order to
provide uninterrupted operation.
 If a jam does occur, the PLC will only shut off
the actual section where the jam occurred.
 The items that were already in the machine in
front of the jam will be folded and clear the
machine in order to minimize any down time.
PACKING & PACKAGING
REQUIREMENTS
 Ensure the carton is strong and secure enough to protect
the contents in the normal transport and distribution
processes according to the standards
 Ensure the contents of the carton are packed as per
instructions
 Ensure the labelling/marking are as per requirements
 Eliminate the outer shipper carton where inners are the
distribution unit
 Ensure the carton does not display any misleading
information or unrelated printed matter,
- for example, brands or product names unrelated to the
cartons content.
It is important to:
 Use the correct size carton for the goods you
need to pack to minimise free space in carton
 Ensure that packages form a stable unit load
 Ensure that cartons are adequately sealed to
support the content
 Do not use brown paper wrapping
 DO NOT use any form of strapping
 DO NOT use carton stapling
HANGERS
 The hangers must be secured with a cable tie.
All film specifications remain the same as for
pre-made bags.
 The supplier must ensure that the heat setting is
adequate to seal the bags sufficiently without
overheating and weakening the bag strength.
 Garments to hang loose in bags. Bottom edge of
garment is to remain above bottom edge of bag.
Hanger opening is to face left.
NOTE: Garments must have no more that 6cm to 12cm excess at the bottom heat-
sealed or taped closed.
FLAT BED FUSING PRESSES
 The flat bed fusing press has
been designed with versatility
and ease of use very much in
mind.
 Its large 120cm x 50cm heated
top p late makes it suitable for
use in the manufacture of
many different types of
garments & textiles.
 With a temperature range of up
to 200oC, it can be used with a
wide selection of today's modern
fusib le interlinings (& heat
transfers etc.)
OPEN SIDED ROLLER FUSING
PRESSES
 Up to 45cm fusing width
 End less fusing length
 Conveyer belt fusing
system
 Silicone rubber pressure
roller
 Open sided to allow wider
items
 20 to 200 Oc temperature
 Co mpact & affordable
 1.5Kg/cm pressure.
 Independent belt tracking
system.
STEAM IRON
 It is comfortab le and easy to use, with
its design meeting the requirements of
prolonged industrial use.
 As well as its 1kW heat ing element
& useful 225mm long base plate,
operators can choose from two d
ifferent iron handle styles.
 The standard M28/11 steam iron
features a traditional cork style
handle and the optional M28/1 model
feat ures an ergono mic handle. Both
have a well positioned micro switch
for easy operation.
FINISHERS FOR DIFFERENT
GARMENTS
UNIVERSAL FINISHER

 This universal finisher is the preferred equipment for small


to middle
 sized laundries and textile care plants.
 It is available in a steam heated version.
 Spin-dry shirts, blouses, smocks or dustcoats are finished quickly
without
 creases by the high performance silent hot-air fan.
 Dry garments, such as jackets, coats, etc., can also be
finished on this
 machine.
 The individual functions are called step by step on the kickerplate.
SHIRT FINISHER
 Shirt Finisher provides an excellent
and complete finish for washed, pre-
treated or wet processed shirts.
 The shirts are placed on hangers,
buttoned or unbuttoned prior to
the finishing operation.
 Seam tensioning elements, custom
shaped shoulder forms, electrically
heated pressing plates for the shirt
pocket, the integrated suction
plate and stretch-control are standard
features.
FORM FINISHER FOR DRESSES
AND SHIRTS
 The height and shoulder width (270-
450 mm/ 10.6-17.7 in.) of the dress
form is adjustable and the sleeves can be
closed with a zip.
 The individual dress forms turn through
360 degrees and can be exchanged
within seconds.
 Base Unit with extremely strong hot and
cold air fan.
 Infinitely adjustable volume of air for
easy treatment o f light and heavy
knitwear.
 A special form for skirts is mounted over
an adapter on the VEIT 8308 base unit.
ABSORBENCY TEST

METHOD A – BY DROP TEST

 Drop of 0.5g/l methylene blue solution is placed on the


fabric surface from a height of 2.5cm with the help of
pipette.
 A stop watch is started as soon as the drop falls on the
fabric and stopped no sooner the image of the reflected
light disappears at the edge of the drop i.e. the water
drop is completely absorbed by the fabric.
 This is termed as „drop absorbency time‟. A drop
absorbency of about 5sec is generally considered
satisfactory for well-prepared Cellulosic materials.
ABSORBENCY TEST

METHOD B – BY SINKING TIME

 At least 4 samples of the size 1”-1” are cut.


 Each sample is kept on the surface of water
taken in 500ml glass beaker.
 Time taken by the piece to sink just beneath the
water surface is measured.
 A sinking time of about 5sec is generally
considered satisfactory for well prepared
Cellulosic materials.
TENSILE (BREAKING)
STRENGTH
 Fabric samples are clamped in
the jaws of a tensile tester and
pulled apart until they break.
 Three samples are tested across
the warp and three across the
weft and the average breaking
strength established is
expressed in Newtons.
TEAR STRENGTH TEST
 This test measures the force required to
continue a tear which has already been started
in the fabric.
 A cut is made in a rectangular sample to form
two "tongues" and reference lines are marked to
indicate the point the tear is to be continued to.
 One tongue is then placed in the upper jaw of a
tensile tester, the other tongue in the lower jaw,
and the two jaws opened to continue the tear to
the reference line.
 The average tear strength is then calculated.
TEAR STRENGTH FOR
DIFFERENT USES
SR.NO. PURPOSE FORCE(IN
NEWTON)
1. Occasional 15N
domestic/Light
domestic
2. General 20 N
domestic/Sever
e domestic
3. Severe contract 25 N
RUBBING/CROCKING
FASTNESS
 Instrument used for checking is the
standard crockmeter.
 Test is quite sensitive and for
getting consistent result, it is
necessary to use standard
crockmeter cloth, maintain uniform
pressure for applying rubbing
strokes and number of strokes.
 for wet rubbing, % moisture on the
crock-cloth has to be kept to
uniform level.
 The rubbing cloth has to be
squeezed to contain its own weight
of water.
LIGHT FASTNESS TEST
 The light fastness of dyed fabric is evaluated by
exposing the fabric samples to xenon ARC.
 Even though the light sources are same, other
conditions are different.

GRADING-
 The fastness to light is tested in accordance with
DIN 16525.
 The degree of fading is assessed by comparison
with the blue scale for wool (DIN EN ISO 105-
B01).
FASTNESS TO LIGHT RATINGS
FLAMMABILITY TEST
 A standard test rig is constructed from fabric and
foam to form a simulated chair with the back at a
right angle to the base.
 This enables the ignition source to be kept in
permanent contact with both back and seat
throughout the test. Watersoak prior to testing is
compulsary.

PART 1
 A lighted cigarette is placed in the angle of the test
rig and left to smoulder along its entire length.
After 60 minutes no smouldering or flaming of the
fabric should be observed.
Part 2
 A butane flame 35mm in height is used to
represent a burning match and is applied for 15
seconds, again in the angle between the test rig
base and back. After the flame is removed, no
burning of the fabric should occur after 2 minutes
have elapsed.
DRY CLEANING FASTNESS
TEST
TEST METHOD:
 Sew the sample with 12 steel plates in to a cotton bag
(10 x10 cm).
 place in a stainless steel beaker of 550ml volume and
treat with 200ml perchloroethylene for 30 minutes at
30C in the Launder-O-Meter.
 Then remove the test sample, squeeze or hydro extract
and hang to dry in warm air at 60C.

ASSESSMENT:
 'Change of shade', 'staining' of the solvent with Grey
Scale 'staining' will be assessed.
COLOR FASTNESS TO
WASHING
 In the test, change in color of the textile and also staining of
color on the adjacent fabric are assessed.
 A 10 x 4 cm swatch of the coloured fabric is taken and is
sandwitched between two adjacent fabric and stitched, The
sample and the adjacent fabric are washed together.
 The solution for washing should be prepared to the required
temperature of washing.
 The liquor material ratio is 50:1 .
 After soaping treatment, remove the speciment, rinse twice
in cold water and then in running cold water under a tap.
 Squeeze it and air dry at a temperture not exceeding 60°C.
 The change in color and staining is evaluated with the help
of grey scales.
FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION
TEST
 Continuous contact with the human perspiration
also affects the fastness of some the dyed
fabrics.
 In fact the perspiration is found to be either
slightly alkaline or acidic in nature.
 When fabric is subjected to this alkaline or acidic
perspiration continuously some times the tone
and depth of the dyed shade gets affected.
ARTIFICIAL PERSPIRATION
CONDITION

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