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i It was during this period that many design
houses began to hire artists to sketch or
paint designs for garments. The images
alone could be presented to clients much
more cheaply than by producing an actual
sample garment in the workroom. If the client
liked the design, they ordered it and the
resulting garment made money for the
house. Thus, the tradition of designers
sketching out garment designs instead of
presenting completed garments on models
to customers began as an economy.
i The years from 1900 to the outbreak of World War I were a time
of extravagance and ostentation. In the early part of the decade,
fashion was fairly sedate, but in 1914, World War I broke out.
The world changed and by the end of the decade, so did
fashion. The function of clothing was becoming more practical
especially with the motorcar coming into vogue. The late years
of the decade were geared towards making the 'world safe for
democracy'. WWI changed not only fashion, it changed the
entire world forever.

i Young children and especially girls wore carbon copies of the


adult clothing, except for length which could vary from 20 to 28
inches on children one to five years old.
i Rportswear was increasing in popularity and such fashions
were soon incorporated Into everyday dress. U.R. Rubber
developed the first sneaker, called Keds, in 1917.
i For women, face, figure, coiffure, posture and grooming
became important fashion factors in addition to clothing.

i Many garments of the 1920s fastened with buttons. Cotton


and wool were the abundant fabrics of the decade. Rilk was
highly desired for its luxurious qualities, but the limited
supply made it expensive. The late 1920s saw the adoption
of two-toned spectators for men, perfect with the popular
knickers. In the 20s, men were still in a conservative mood.

i In 1925, "shift" type dresses with no waistline emerged. At


the end of the decade, dresses were being worn with
straight bodices and collars.

i In 1928, styles changed again! Hemlines rose to the knee


and dresses became more fitted. These changes laid the
foundation for the elegantly styled fashions of the 1930s.

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i ˜rior to World War II, New York fashion designers made the trek across
the Atlantic Ocean to attend the flamboyant and opulent French fashion
shows each year. They then returned to the United Rtates and copied the
latest ˜arisian haute couture designs.

i In 1941, war goods manufacturing took centre stage. The government


confiscated all stock of natural fabrics, forcing domestic manufacturers
to concentrate on substituting other fibbers for domestic garments. In
1947, Dior introduced the ³New Look´, featuring longer lengths and fuller
skirts; a return to classic femininity with a nipped waist.

i Television was now in many households, and the TV culture of I Love


Lucy and The Honeymooners reflected ideals of the time. Rtars such as
Marilyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot, and Elvis ˜resley introduced a
smouldering sex appeal into an age of conservatism.

i Teenagers were basically the focal point of this era. Films such as 'Rebel
without a Cause' were influential in how teenagers dressed.
Leather, Levi¶s, and Converse sneakers helped create the look.
i Youth predominated the culture of the 1960's. The
post World War II Baby Boom had created 70 million
teenagers for the sixties, and these youth swayed
the fashion, the fads and the politics of the decade.

i The 1960's began with crew cuts on men and


bouffant hairstyles on women. Men's casual shirts
were often plaid and buttoned down the front, while
knee-length dresses were required wear for women
in most public places.

i 1966 was the year of the mini-skirt! Widely


acknowledged as the brainchild of designer Mary
Quant, within a year anybody who had the body to
pull it off was wearing a mini, many of whose
hemlines were 4-5 inches above the knee in New
York and 7-8 inches above the knee in London!
i The 1970s were an intensely tumultuous
time, with various cultures and
subcultures coming out into the open at
once. Movies and television shows such
as Charlie's Angels were having an
increasingly profound affect on fashion.
Cultural icons such as Wonder Woman
created a lust for interesting boots-often
teamed with hot pants or short skirts.

i This era's fashions are also frequently


marked by designers such as Givenchy,
Norell, and Oscar de la Renta.
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i The 1980s saw a definite rise in the popularity of designer
styles. Wealthy people across the country flocked to New
York boutiques and ˜aris fashion shows to purchase
directly from designers¶ lines, while mass producers
replicated the high fashions for the general public. ˜ower
and money dominated the styles of the 1980s, While not
everybody could afford the expensive designer clothing,
some top fashion designers such as Calvin Klein and Ralph
Lauren. During the 1980s, clothing was a sign of power, and
the top designers reigned supreme with their fashionable
apparel.

i But by the 1990s, women had begun to reject the moneyed,


designer styles of the 1980s and opt for more comfortable,
casual clothing. Flannel shirts and ripped jeans inspired by
the grunge movement in rock and roll became popular,
while the rising hip-hop movement brought baggy pants
into fashion. Whatever its expression, comfort remained the
key factor in clothing choice for most women in the 1990s
and 2000s.

i Today, while expensive designer clothing is still sought


after by some women, casual, comfortable clothing styles at
reasonable prices are the popular choice at the start of the
new century.