Colour theory, Dyes & Pigments

Dr. Nilanjana Bairagi

What is colour?
Colour is a sensation which occurs when light enters the eyes. If a textile material has a particular colour, the textile material absorbs all the light falling upon it and reflects only that particular wavelength of the colour. A white fabric appears white as it reflects all the light waves. Green fabric- reflects light which appears green to the eyes.
Black fabric ?

Specifying colour
Hue: common name of the colour Value: Term used to describe lightness, darkness, tone or shade of the hues. Chroma: Used to describe the depth of colour; dullness, brightness, saturation, intensity, vividness or purity of the colour.

Dyes & Pigments

Dyes are dissolved in whatever solvent is used (soluble). Pigments are insoluble. Often a pigment is made by attaching a dye molecule to an insoluble particle. Dye molecules are comparatively smaller, pigments are larger in size. it's like comparing a football (pigment) to say a head of a pin (dye) Pigment particles are about 1-2 microns in size. (1 micron =1/1000 meter).

Dyes & Pigments

Bonding: Taking the example of dyeing a wood surface, the dye and the substrate (wood) that is dyed are chemicals, that have certain features called functional groups. At the level of molecules these groups serve as open pockets of electrostatic charges (+ or -). The functional group in dyes, serve as a method for attaching the dye to the wool. Pigment requires the help of a binder for gluing. As it is an inert substance which is merely suspended in a carrier/binder .

Dye molecule
Chromophores & Auxochromes Chromophore: Gives the dye molecule its particular colour. Auxochrome:Intensify the hue of the dye moleculess colour, makes the dye molecule more water soluble and improves the colour fastness properties of the dyed or printed fibre.

Dye molecule
Dye molecules are organic molecules The shape or configuration of the dye molecule determines how:

 Readily the dye can diffuse through fibre surface;  How deeply the dye molecule will enter the polymer system of the fibre  How the dye molecule will be able to attach itself and/ or become trapped in the polymer system of the fibre.
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Dye classification as per application

1. Direct dyes (substantive colours) 2. Acid dyes (anionic dyes) 3. Basic dyes (cationic dyes) 4. Disperse dyes 5. Mordant dyes 6. Metal-complex dyes 7. Reactive dyes 8. Sulphur dyes 9. Vat dyes 10. Azoic dyes
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Dye classification as per application

Class of dye
Direct dyes (substantive colours) Acid dyes (anionic dyes) Basic dyes (cationic dyes) Disperse dyes

Fibres which can be dyed

Man-made & natural cellulosic fibres Natural protein fibres, nylon fibres Acrylic , modacrylic fibres Polyester, nylon, acrylic, cellulose acetate

Dye classification as per application

Class of dye
Mordant dyes Metal-complex dyes Reactive dyes *Covalent bond formation Sulphur dyes

Fibres which can be dyed

Wool, silk ( natural protein fibres), nylon,& modacrylic Wool, silk ( natural protein fibres), & nylon Cellulosics & protein fibres ( Natural & manmade fibres) Natural & man-made cellulosic fibres
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Dye classification as per application

Class of dye
Vat dyes Azoic dyes (Napthol dyes)

Fibres which can be dyed

Natural and man-made cellulosic fibres Natural and man-made cellulosic fibres

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Significance of commercial dye names

FORON SCARLET E 2GFL, DRIMAREN BLUE R SPL

     

FORON- Brand name SCARLET hue E : series ( depends on the method of dyeing) 2G: Tone of the hue F: Brightness L: Light fastness

 G Yellow  R Red  B-Bluish

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General Theory of Dyeing

The fibre:

 Develop slightly negative surface charge or potential when immersed in an aqueous solution.  When the dye molecule & fibre both become negatively charged they repel one another.  For dyeing the dye molecule has to enter the fibre structure.

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Dyeing recipe
Dye: Shade % M/L ratio or MLR Electrolyte Temperature Duration Auxillaries

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Role of water
In addition to dissolving the dye, water acts as a medium through which the dye molecules are transferred into the fibre. Heat is necessary  to encourage the dye to leave the water & enter the fibre, and  also for penetration of the dye into the fibre
Water, assisted by heat also swells the fibre that are hydrophilic, making it more accessible for the dye.

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Heat
Increases the energy of the dye molecule & the rate of dyeing. Increases the efficiency of the dye molecules to enter into the amorphous regions of the fibre. The heat also swells the fibre, making it easier for the dye molecule to entre the fibre.

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Role of electrolytes( sod chloride, sod sulphate)

The electrolyte dissociates completely in the water and increases the dye uptake. It makes the surface charge of the fibre neutral and increases the dye uptake when both the dye & the fibre have negative charge.

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Dye auxillaries
It includes:

     

Carriers or swelling agents Levelling agents Anti-foaming agents Dispersing agents Detergents Wetting agents

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Carriers or swelling agents

Carriers are added to the dye liquor to improve the dye exhaustion for highly crystalline fibre like polyester. Used while dyeing polyester with disperse dyes. Process of dyeing polyester/ nylon/ acrylic:
      Shade % ( commercial dyes comes with dispersing agents) Acetic acid: pH 4 Temp 1300 C Time : 45 mins M/C used: High temp & high pressure machine Differential dyeing of polyester is preferred

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Levelling agents
Addition of levelling agent helps to produce more uniform colour to the textile fibre. It slows down the dye uptake of the fibres. Also termed as retarding agents or retarders.

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Fastness properties
Wash-fastness Light-fastness Dry-cleaning fastness Perspiration fastness Chlorine fastness ( fastness to bleaches containing chlorine) Rubbing fastness

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Wash-fastness
The loss of colour during laundering is referred to as the lack of wash-fastness or bleeding. It occurs when the dye is held loosely to the fibre and has not penetrated the fibre structure. It is tested by using standard methods like : ISO Test 3, ISO Test 2 for wash-fastness. The grading is given 1-5, where

 5 No change in colour ( Excellent wash fastness)  4 slight change in colour  1 Poor wash-fastness

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DYEING MACHINES
Dr. Nilanjana Bairagi

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Dyeing
Fibre Yarn Fabric - open-width, rope form  Batch wise, continuous  Knitted fabric- tubular form Garment

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Batch dyeing Machinery for exhaust dyeing

Three types of dyeing machines for batch or exhaust dyeing are based on machines in which
1. 2. The material moves, but liquor is stationary
Example: jig ( jigger) and winch m/c for fabric dyeing

The liquor moves, but material is stationary

 Example: Hank or package dyeing of yarns and beam dyeing of fabric Example: Jet, Softflow and overflow jet machines for fabrics

3.

Both liquor and the material moves



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Dyeing machinery
Advantages of lower liquor ratio  Decreases water & energy consumption  Decreases volume of waste water  Facilitates rapid dyeing  Increases dye exhaustion

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Jig or Jigger dyeing machine

Fabric dyed open width Fabric traverses from one roll through dyebath-to a second roller When the second roller is full, the fabric stops and the motion is reversed. The procedure is repeated. Dye liquor is added in portions A hood prevents the release of steam Jigs operate at 98-100 C, pressurized jigs operate at 140C . Material to Liquor ratio 1:3-5
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Winch or Beck dyeing

Winch dyeing may be used for dyeing in rope form. Temperatures upto 98-100 C Suitable for delicate fabrics to prevent creasing

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Beam dyeing
Fabric is wound at open width on to a perforated stainless steel beam. Dye liquor is pumped through the multiple layers of fabric. The fabric winding tension must be low to avoid stretching. Mostly used for dyeing thin permeable fabrics of polyester , nylon MLR 1:10

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Soft-flow jet dyeing machine

Soft-flow jets provide a more gentle mechanical action on the fabric rope. The fabric transportation being carried out over a winch reel followed by soft-flow jet systems. In some machinery the flow is split between two jets Which exerts low pressure to the fabric

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Pad-batch dyeing
Padding stage Followed by hot conditions Used for reactive dyeing

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Continuous dyeing machinery

Continuous dyeing can be carried out by dye impregnation, fixation, washing off and drying on ranges. Woven fabrics at open width, carpet and warp dyeing ranges. Originally designed for economical dyeing. Polyester cotton blend- first step pad-drythermofixation process. Then reactive dyeing using a pad-steam process.

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Garment dyeing machine

Available in 90 to 300 kg. capacities An efficient Garment/ Knitwear Processor & Washer Carries out desizing, enzyme silicon wash, bleaching, stoning, softening, dyeing Microprocessor - Pneumatics combines to ensure precise control of time, temperature, level, speed, rotation & process control

Front loaded garment dyeing machine

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