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Some refer to Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren as the Gilbert and George of fashion, a comparison that goes beyond their twinned, bespectacled appearance. Since Viktor & Rolf began making clothes in 1993 after graduating from the Netherlands' Arnhem Academy of Art and Design, they have endeavored to blur the line between art and fashion. The Dutch duo's runway presentations are typically high on concept, showmanship, and wit. And like all good artists they can infuriate as well as delight. A few (out of many) examples of their unusual approach: an entirely topsy-turvy show with upside-down dresses and an earsplitting backwards soundtrack, a provocative all-black show (including the models' faces), and a presentation featuring, on a revolving turntable, a single model who was layered in look after look like a Russian doll.
Though early on they were known for wowing the fashion press
but not selling a stitch, Horsting and Snoeren have since tapped into their commercial potential. They made a move from haute couture to ready-to-wear in 2000, launched a perfume called Flowerbomb (and packaged it in a grenade-shaped bottle) in 2004, drew frenzied crowds for their collaboration with fastfashion retailer H&M in 2006, and opened a boutique on the Via Sant'Andrea in Milan. Earlier this year the pair sold a controlling stake of its business to Diesel owner Renzo Rosso. "We have high ambitions," Snoeren commented to The New York Times, which also reported their plans to open five more boutiques within the next few years. Nevertheless, their penchant for surrealism hasn't diminished: Their 15-year retrospective at London's Barbican Art Gallery, called The House of Viktor & Rolf, consisted of a gigantic dollhouse populated by 55 dolls, each wearing a Viktor & Rolf look re-created in miniature.
Prasoon Parashar
A print of Victorian ladies could have been mug shots of Freud's patientsor Jack the Ripper's victims. And Viktor & Rolf Soir, the duo's new eveningwear capsule collection, was also very much in the fullmoon, funereal vein that was so accurately captured in the look book. Still, Snoeren insisted that what they stand for as designers is "unexpected elegance," and there were enough instances of that with these clothes that you can see why they keep showing up on red carpets. A padded gazar waistcoat stays in the mind. And something else Freud might have to concedethere's always a kernel of humor somewhere with Viktor & Rolf. The Victorian buttoned boot came with a dominatrix heel. Roll on, full moon.
Techniques- Quilting on cape Materials- patent leather, cotton twill, poly silk. Process- quilting done using thin layer of foam around 1/4th inch thickness and sewn.
Prasoon Parashar
Techniques- Swarovski crystals overlay on the shirt, jacket lapel fabric replaced by patent leather and quilted. Materials- patent leather, felt, cotton twill, blended cotton. Process Quilting done using thin layer of foam around 1/4th inch thickness and sewn. Swarovski crystals beaded and overlaid using heat locking from the back of the fabric.
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Prasoon Parashar
Techniques- Braiding of the fabric on the shirt sleeve. Materials- cotton twill, poly silk. Process- Braiding done by twisting the fabrics creating three loops interlaced together in a way to carry the edge further. After braiding stitched on the shirt sleeve.
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Techniques- burning out the fabric industrial method. Materials- velvet, poly silk. Process- burned using heat given to the fabric to take the warp out of it. paneled and stitched
Prasoon Parashar
Prasoon Parashar
Prasoon Parashar
Techniques- Eyeleting and laced through it the fabric. Poly wrap effect on the lace fabric and embossed.
Prasoon Parashar
Techniques- Eyeleting, fabric laced through it the fabric, felted silk and varnished, Uneven box pleats. Materials- felted silk and varnished, cotton lace. Process- Eyeleting done by punching chisels and fixing eyelets to it fabric laced through the eyelets in put and pull through manner.
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Techniques- Eyeleting, fabric laced through it the fabric, frilled laced 1/4th inch length, ladder look type lace stitched on the princess panels Materials- poly silk, cotton lace. Process- Eyeleting done by punching chisels and fixing eyelets to it fabric laced through the eyelets in put and pull through manner. frill lace stitched to the sleeves hem lines.
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Techniques- cotton net sandwiched between the two layers of fabric, katagami technique. Materials- poly silk, silk felt, cotton net, piping. Process- cotton net sandwiched between the two layers of fabric and piping done. fabric cut with lasers or stenciled (katagami)
Prasoon Parashar
Techniques- Eyeleting, fabric laced through it the fabric, Swarovski crystals fixed to the fabric. Materials- poly silk, cotton lace. Process- Eyeleting done by punching chisels and fixing eyelets to it fabric laced through the eyelets in put and pull through manner.
Prasoon Parashar
Prasoon Parashar
Techniques- silk frills stitched to the surface. Materials- pure silk, blended cotton fabric. Process- silk frills stitched in the center of the fabric and placed in vertical manner.
Prasoon Parashar
Techniques- silk frills stitched to the surface. Couching on the edge. Materials- pure silk, blended cotton fabric, varnished velvet. Process- silk frills stitched in the center of the fabric and placed in vertical manner. Velvet varnished
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Techniques- varnished velvet surface. Couching on the edge. Materials- organza, blended cotton fabric, varnished velvet. Process- silk frills stitched in the center of the fabric and placed in vertical manner. Velvet varnished
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Materials- pure silk, blended cotton fabric, net. Process- small fabric petals stitched on the net fabric.
Prasoon Parashar
Techniques- Swarovski crystals fused on the leather, cut out work. Materials- pure cotton, leather, Swarovski crystals. Process- Swarovski crystals beaded and overlaid using heat locking from the back of the leather. laser cut of the leather.
Prasoon Parashar
Prasoon Parashar
Prasoon Parashar
Prasoon Parashar
Techniques- cut, stitch and spread, quilting. Materials- wool felt. Process- The felt fabric has been cut, stitched and spread to make the circular like effect. Quilting done using thin layer of foam around 1/4th inch thickness and sewn.
Prasoon Parashar
Prasoon Parashar
Prasoon Parashar
Techniques- wide cut frills, Swarovski crystal beads sticked on some of the frills. Materials- Swarovski crystals, poly silk. Process- Fabric pieces cut wide and stitched on the surface of the shirt. Swarovski crystals beads sticked to the panels using the heat set techniques.
Prasoon Parashar
Prasoon Parashar
Bibliography
www.viktor&rolf.com www.style.com www.google/images.co.in http://rackreader.blogspot.in/2010/02/brand-profile-viktor-and-rolf_15.htm
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