You are on page 1of 39

OM490 VOCABULARY

You need to know this stuff There will be a test What will happen to you if you dont learn this

Hause of Howe
Mens line: Cowboy punk meets English Country Gentleman Womens: Miss Kitty meets Emma Peel (?)

Types of garments
What is your line plan? Who will be wearing this/what size range? Will one garment be the focus? Can one garment sell the line/concept? Will too many garments cloud the message and interfere with ability to meet deadlines? What does Jade Howe want? Who will he serve? What will Union Bay do?

Womens Bottoms
Pants (fit)
Flat cut Pleated Straight Pegged A-Line Hip hugger Leggings Boot cut

Skirts (length, closure, fit)

Zippers
Overlap Exposed Invisible Fly

Womens Woven Tops


Keep sleeve type, collar and closure in mind when you plan the top
Shirt Blouse Camp Shirt Western Cut Shell

Collars
Tailored Mandarin Notched Convertible (open/closed)

Sleeves
Set in Shirt Raglan Dolman Cap

Cuffs
Vented Ruffle Roll up French

Knit Tops
Halter Top Polo Shirt T-Shirt Tank

Necklines
Sweetheart V-neck Jewel Square

Sweaters
Cardigan Pullover Turtleneck/mock turtleneck V-neck

Jackets and Coats


Blazer Pea coat Trench

Line Plan
A list of what will be produced for a specific offering
Need to know
Season Colors Theme

Minimums
Applies to
Garments Fabric Findings

Woven
Two or more yarns interlaced at right angles
Warp yarns
Run lengthwise, parallel to selvage, most stable direction, straight of grain

Weft Yarns
Cross wise (weft to Wight), fill, cross grain, most give

Bias

Knit
Formation of fabric by the inter-looping of one or more sets of yarns Wales vertical columns of stitches Courses are the horizontal rows Examples Warp knit Tricot, lace Weft Knit Single knit (jersey, velour) Double (interlock, rib)

Sustainable
Fabric that is used Manufacturing Method/Factory Use of garment alone

Concept Board
Tear Sheet Swatches Start it now with your idea book

Knock Off
The cut or details of a garment cannot be copyrighted under existing law, although logos and original prints can be protected Illegal and legal

Silhouette
The outline or shape of the garment

Pre-production garments
Sketch Muslin Proto Size run Wear test Pre-production TOP (Top of Production)

Target Customer
Different issues when you are designing clothes

Fit Model
Your responsibility to find one. Standard size and look
Mens sizing for Hause of Howe
Medium 41 chest Large 44 XL 46 XXL 49

Labeling issues
Care and Content Country of Origin Hang Tags

Types of Stitches
Lockstitch Over lock Cover stitch Flat lock Seamless/Bemis/Welded Top Stitch (single needle/double needle)

Pattern making and layout


Grading Marker Selvage Ease

Preparation for presentation to factory


Spec pack/Tech Pack
Bill of Materials (BOM) Trims Findings Points of Measure Sequence of Construction

Fabric Terms
Greige Goods
Any fabric that has not been finished

Vegetable Fiber (cotton, linen, silk, hemp) Animal Fiber (wool, leather) Man made Denier
Yarn or fiber size DPF (yarn size divided by # of filaments)

Fabric Coloring
Yarn Dye Piece Dye Product Dye Problems and remedies
Shading/streaks Dye lot difference

Embellishment Methods
Embroidery
Digitize Screen Print Heat Transfer Sublimation - no use of liquid. From paper to fabric through and through. Printing (Roller printing, discharge, ink jet)

Embellishment Problems
Migration/Bleeding Crocking

FOB
Freight on Board

Tariff
Also called Harmonized Tariff Code (HTC), this coding system is used by the U.S. Government to classify U.S. imports and exports. These codes can be up to 10 digits long. Exports codes (called Schedule B) are administered by the U.S. Census Bureau. Import codes are administered by the U.S. International Trade Commission (USITC). Some GATT member nations also use this system. Here is an example of a hierarchy from HS: 61 Articles of apparel and clothing accessories, knitted or crocheted 6103 Men's or boys' suits, ensembles, suit-type jackets....knitted or crocheted 6103.19 Of other textile materials 6103.19.20 Of cotton 6103.19.20.10 Jackets imported as parts of suits

Post Production Issues


Compliance Inspection Standards/Tolerances Quality Control in house and/or at factory Packing/shipping
Folding

Pantone

Carry over

Croquis

Factory Terms
Spreader Bundling Station system
each part is completed at a station then goes to a central location

Continuous System
Begins as parts and does not come off the line until it is done

You might also like