Saveur2 min readFood & Wine
Food Moves Us Closer
WE CAN NEVER LEARN ENOUGH about one another’s cultures. Although there is beauty in our individuality as nations, regions, and families, making an effort to know more about each other is the ultimate path toward kinship and unity. What we’ve already
Saveur5 min read
Notes From The Test Kitchen
IF IT’S UNLIKELY THAT YOU WILL FIND yourself in Fall River, Massachusetts, to visit Portugalia Marketplace (see “Conservas, Olives, and Salt Cod,” p. 22), you need not miss out on the best selection of Portuguese specialties this side of the Atlantic
Saveur2 min readFood & Wine
Canada’s Brisket Whisperer
ON THE CORNER OF an otherwise indistinguishable big-box strip mall in Markham, a suburb of Toronto, you’ll see signs for a Jewish delicatessen. It’s a predominantly Chinese neighborhood, but Sumith Fernando, a Roman Catholic Sri Lankan immigrant, saw
Saveur2 min read
The French Bitter That Took Nevada
I’D BEEN IN ELKO, NEVADA, for less than an hour, and I’d already broken a rule. I had come to the Star Hotel, a century-old restaurant and former boarding house for cattle ranchers, in search of the Picon punch. There it was, advertised on a chalkboa
Saveur3 min readFood & Wine
A Long And Winding Road
In my kitchen in Oakland, California, I preheated my cast-iron comal and slipped a pat of butter onto the surface. I’d just gotten home from New Orleans, where at an artisanal bakery I’d purchased a mallorca, a sweet spiral bun made by a baker from P
Saveur2 min read
The Booza Boom
THE POUNDING OF BOOZA is a spectacle worth lining up for. Though the word means “ice cream” in Levantine Arabic, today it mostly refers to the Syrian version, a combination of milk with sahlab or salep (a starchy orchid-root flour) and mastic gum (a
Saveur2 min read
Conservas, Olives, and Salt Cod
“THIS IS NOT ENTRY-LEVEL FISH,” says a smiling Michael Benevides, standing in what has to be the United States’ largest purpose-built bacalhau chamber. It occupies one end of Portugalia Marketplace, the emporium Benevides opened with his father, Fern
Saveur4 min read
Cannoli, Grandpa’s Way
CANNOLI HAVE ALWAYS BEEN a fixture in Angie Rito’s family, thanks to her Sicilian grandfather Santo. At age 8, he worked at a tiny pastry shop in Riposto, on the island’s eastern coast. His first task was mixing cannoli dough. “Back then, the shop wa
Saveur7 min read
The Real Pad Thai
PAD THAI MIGHT JUST BE Thailand’s most famous export. The lightly sweet, peanut-topped noodle dish can be found in nearly every Thai restaurant around the world. And while it has been endlessly adapted (some might say bastardized) to appeal to the gl
Saveur7 min read
Mexico’s Party Food
EVERY TIME STEVE SANDO, THE founder of California-based heirloom bean company Rancho Gordo, heads down to Mexico, he encounters a new kind of pozole. “I remember one I tasted in Oaxaca where the cooks used some puréed hominy to thicken the broth and
Saveur6 min read
Stacked in Your Favor
PARATHAS ARE THE STUFF of my carb-filled dreams. The soft, layered Indian breads were a staple of my childhood in Dallas—most commonly stuffed with spiced, mashed potatoes and made by my Aunt Rachna. I remember sitting at her kitchen table, mesmerize
Saveur13 min readFood & Wine
Nothing Gold
IT APPEARED AT first that I had arrived in Macau by time machine. The hotel’s name, Morpheus, seemed picked to evoke either Greek mythology or The Matrix, but the exterior of the $1.1 billion building makes it clear the proprietors had chosen science
Saveur9 min readFood & Wine
Around The Fire
TURKISH LONDON STRETCHES through the boroughs of Hackney and Harringay, in the northeast of the city. There are Turkish barber shops and bakeries, lahmacun cafes and baklava stores, and an Ottoman-style mosque with a butcher’s shop beneath it. Greeng
Saveur8 min readFood & Wine
The Last Lebanese Steakhouse In Tulsa
“They didn’t tout it as Lebanese,” remembers Davidson, who is now the owner of Oklahoma Joe’s BBQ. “We didn’t even know where Lebanon was. But if you wanted to have a great rib-eye, that’s where you went.” Just one of these restaurants remains within
Saveur11 min readFood & Wine
The Middlemen
Sarah Maglass lives in a new red-brick house in Tanzania’s fertile Kilombero Valley, just south of Udzungwa National Park, nearly 40 miles from the nearest electricity or paved road. In her village, Mbingu, there is one dirt road and a tangled networ
Saveur13 min read
There and Back
Every meal at Milli begins with a complimentary chalupa. One of the cooks griddles a small, handmade corn tortilla atop a hot comal until it’s bronzed on both sides, then layers it with smoky red salsa and homemade queso fresco. It’s a humble gift—an
Saveur8 min readFood & Wine
At The BAYOU’S EDGE
AT THE END OF THE LAND IN SOUTHERN LOUISIANA, water sloshes at the sides of the road, creeping into parking lots and backyards and beneath houses on stilts. Wetlands and fishing docks splay out into the Gulf of Mexico, narrowing the divide between so
Saveur1 min readFood & Wine
Champagne Mango Sorbet
Thai-Thanh Dang works her sorbets into impressive cakes. The assembly is tricky, but encasing frozen treats in meringue is simpler than you might think. For more, see “Whip It Good,” p. 94. MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART Active: 45 min. Total: 4 hr. 45 min. Cha
Saveur2 min readFood & Wine
Lamb Ribs with Spicy Harissa Barbecue Sauce
SERVES 4 Active: 35 min. Total: 2 hr. 10 min. Perfect for parties, these ribs pre-roast in the oven, then crisp up under the broiler. Ask your butcher for a Denver cut: the lamb rib equivalent of St. Louis–style pork spare ribs, which is a fatty port
Saveur1 min readFood & Wine
Grilled Marinated Lamb Kebabs
SERVES 4 Active: 30 min.• Total: 1 hr. Lamb shoulder is an under utilized cut for grilling. It’s inexpensive yet juicy, and when cut into small pieces, it can easily absorb flavor from spice rubs and marinades. Made without any acid, this marinade re
Saveur2 min readFood & Wine
Indebted to Our Growers
MY SUMMER MORNINGS ALL START the same way: with a walk in our backyard garden. So far, it’s just a few raised beds—not much more than a tomato plant here and some herbs and chiles there—and yet harvesting as little as two or three ripe strawberries,
Saveur2 min readFood & Wine
Fry Time
AT ITS VERY BEST, VEGETABLE tempura is piping hot and airy crisp, without a hint of heaviness or oiliness. And at its worst, it is a questionable soggy fry-up strewn atop a bowl of rice. While there are plenty of examples of the latter to be found in
Saveur2 min readFood & Wine
Lamb Burger with Mint, Feta, and Balsamic Onions
SERVES 4 Total: 35 min. At the Marketplace at Emerald Valley in Washington, Pennsylvania, lemon zest and fresh mint go into every lamb burger patty. A tangle of sweet balsamic onions, a hint of chile, and briny feta balance the charred meat and brioc
Saveur4 min read
On Dry Land
ON A COOL MORNING IN PAMPORE, India, the fields have become a purpledotted canvas. Haji Ghulam Hassan Bhat, 65, walks toward his farm carrying a small willow basket, called a zaen, that his grandfather had gifted him when he plucked his first saffron
Saveur3 min readFood & Wine
Tempura Tools
Chances are you already have most of what you need to fry tempura at home—you can use standard kitchen equipment (a spider skimmer, a deep-fry thermometer, and a wide, deep skillet, for example). But having the proper traditional tools—like two kinds
Saveur2 min readFood & Wine
Grilled Rack Of Lamb With Garlic And Herbs
SERVES 4 Active: 45 min. Total: 3 hr. 55 min. This easy but elegant recipe is adapted from the Presidents Pub in Washington, Pennsylvania, where the chefs oven-roast a whole local lamb rack to a tender mediumrare. On the grill, the meat picks up a sm
Saveur3 min read
Mission: Impossible
TO THE SIDE OF AN EMPTY ROAD ON THE ISLAND OF Lanzarote, the northeasternmost of Spain’s Canary Islands, a landscape of dark volcanic mountains and craters rolls out into the distance. The black rock is so arid, and the vientos alisios (trade winds)
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