Saveur2 min read
The Booza Boom
THE POUNDING OF BOOZA is a spectacle worth lining up for. Though the word means “ice cream” in Levantine Arabic, today it mostly refers to the Syrian version, a combination of milk with sahlab or salep (a starchy orchid-root flour) and mastic gum (a
Saveur2 min read
Conservas, Olives, and Salt Cod
“THIS IS NOT ENTRY-LEVEL FISH,” says a smiling Michael Benevides, standing in what has to be the United States’ largest purpose-built bacalhau chamber. It occupies one end of Portugalia Marketplace, the emporium Benevides opened with his father, Fern
Saveur4 min read
Cannoli, Grandpa’s Way
CANNOLI HAVE ALWAYS BEEN a fixture in Angie Rito’s family, thanks to her Sicilian grandfather Santo. At age 8, he worked at a tiny pastry shop in Riposto, on the island’s eastern coast. His first task was mixing cannoli dough. “Back then, the shop wa
Saveur7 min read
The Real Pad Thai
PAD THAI MIGHT JUST BE Thailand’s most famous export. The lightly sweet, peanut-topped noodle dish can be found in nearly every Thai restaurant around the world. And while it has been endlessly adapted (some might say bastardized) to appeal to the gl
Saveur7 min read
Mexico’s Party Food
EVERY TIME STEVE SANDO, THE founder of California-based heirloom bean company Rancho Gordo, heads down to Mexico, he encounters a new kind of pozole. “I remember one I tasted in Oaxaca where the cooks used some puréed hominy to thicken the broth and
Saveur6 min read
Stacked in Your Favor
PARATHAS ARE THE STUFF of my carb-filled dreams. The soft, layered Indian breads were a staple of my childhood in Dallas—most commonly stuffed with spiced, mashed potatoes and made by my Aunt Rachna. I remember sitting at her kitchen table, mesmerize
Saveur13 min readFood & Wine
Nothing Gold
IT APPEARED AT first that I had arrived in Macau by time machine. The hotel’s name, Morpheus, seemed picked to evoke either Greek mythology or The Matrix, but the exterior of the $1.1 billion building makes it clear the proprietors had chosen science
Saveur9 min readFood & Wine
Around The Fire
TURKISH LONDON STRETCHES through the boroughs of Hackney and Harringay, in the northeast of the city. There are Turkish barber shops and bakeries, lahmacun cafes and baklava stores, and an Ottoman-style mosque with a butcher’s shop beneath it. Greeng
Saveur8 min readFood & Wine
The Last Lebanese Steakhouse In Tulsa
“They didn’t tout it as Lebanese,” remembers Davidson, who is now the owner of Oklahoma Joe’s BBQ. “We didn’t even know where Lebanon was. But if you wanted to have a great rib-eye, that’s where you went.” Just one of these restaurants remains within
Saveur11 min readFood & Wine
The Middlemen
Sarah Maglass lives in a new red-brick house in Tanzania’s fertile Kilombero Valley, just south of Udzungwa National Park, nearly 40 miles from the nearest electricity or paved road. In her village, Mbingu, there is one dirt road and a tangled networ
Saveur13 min read
There and Back
Every meal at Milli begins with a complimentary chalupa. One of the cooks griddles a small, handmade corn tortilla atop a hot comal until it’s bronzed on both sides, then layers it with smoky red salsa and homemade queso fresco. It’s a humble gift—an
Saveur8 min readFood & Wine
At The BAYOU’S EDGE
AT THE END OF THE LAND IN SOUTHERN LOUISIANA, water sloshes at the sides of the road, creeping into parking lots and backyards and beneath houses on stilts. Wetlands and fishing docks splay out into the Gulf of Mexico, narrowing the divide between so
Saveur2 min readFood & Wine
Food Moves Us Closer
WE CAN NEVER LEARN ENOUGH about one another’s cultures. Although there is beauty in our individuality as nations, regions, and families, making an effort to know more about each other is the ultimate path toward kinship and unity. What we’ve already
Saveur5 min read
Notes From The Test Kitchen
IF IT’S UNLIKELY THAT YOU WILL FIND yourself in Fall River, Massachusetts, to visit Portugalia Marketplace (see “Conservas, Olives, and Salt Cod,” p. 22), you need not miss out on the best selection of Portuguese specialties this side of the Atlantic
Saveur2 min readFood & Wine
Canada’s Brisket Whisperer
ON THE CORNER OF an otherwise indistinguishable big-box strip mall in Markham, a suburb of Toronto, you’ll see signs for a Jewish delicatessen. It’s a predominantly Chinese neighborhood, but Sumith Fernando, a Roman Catholic Sri Lankan immigrant, saw
Saveur2 min read
The French Bitter That Took Nevada
I’D BEEN IN ELKO, NEVADA, for less than an hour, and I’d already broken a rule. I had come to the Star Hotel, a century-old restaurant and former boarding house for cattle ranchers, in search of the Picon punch. There it was, advertised on a chalkboa
Saveur3 min readFood & Wine
A Long And Winding Road
In my kitchen in Oakland, California, I preheated my cast-iron comal and slipped a pat of butter onto the surface. I’d just gotten home from New Orleans, where at an artisanal bakery I’d purchased a mallorca, a sweet spiral bun made by a baker from P
Saveur3 min read
Mission: Impossible
TO THE SIDE OF AN EMPTY ROAD ON THE ISLAND OF Lanzarote, the northeasternmost of Spain’s Canary Islands, a landscape of dark volcanic mountains and craters rolls out into the distance. The black rock is so arid, and the vientos alisios (trade winds)
Saveur1 min readFood & Wine
Batter It Better
Theories abound on how to achieve a lacy, feather light tempura shell. For Tokyo-style tempura, use a 1-to-1 ratio of flour to water, forgo gimmicks, and employ these simple steps. Sift the flour.Chefs Yokota and Kondo suggest using cake flour for th
Saveur6 min read
The Island Of Forgotten Orchards
IF YOU’RE DRIVING THE WINDING ROADS OF ORCAS ISLAND in late summer, you can smell the ripening fruit all around. On one such morning last year, I stopped the car at my destination and met Audra Lawlor, owner of Girl Meets Dirt, who was surveying one
Saveur3 min readFood & Wine
Tending the Bines
IT CAN BE EASY TO GET LOST IN the labyrinthine trails of Nopalito Farm and Hopyard in northeast San Diego County. Hop farms are strangely evocative of oceanic kelp forests: fields filled with gently waving, upward-reaching verdant plants that can tow
Saveur1 min readFood & Wine
Tempura Dipping Broth (Tentsuyu)
MAKES 1¼ CUPS Active: 10 min. Total: 15 min. Since tempura itself is not salted, it’s typically served with a dipping salt or flavored, salty broth. This version is especially dark from shoyu, a Japanese soy sauce, and its base is an umami-rich dashi
Saveur10 min read
The Olive Detective
VILLA ROMANA IS AN extra-virgin oil pressed from an previously unknown and likely ancient olive variety that grows exclusively on the shores of Lake Garda, in the northern Italian region of Lombardy. Sergio Cozzaglio, who discovered the olives on tre
Saveur3 min readFood & Wine
The Pepper People
THE SLENDER, YELLOW-GREEN kapitsiriwi pepper is named after a blowpipe dart. Then there’s dzaka inapa, resembling a jaguar’s tooth, and kawathsidalipe, extremely hot and shaped like a clay pot. Spanning from orange to green to yellow to purple, 80 di
Saveur4 min readFood & Wine
Summer-Vegetable Tempura
SERVES 4 Total: 1 hr. 45 min. This recipe is for classic tempura and kakiage, a fritterlike dish with a slightly thinner batter. Never chill tempura batter or its components—it will cool down the frying oil and disturb the process. Skim out errant pi
Saveur10 min read
Where the Wild Rice Grows
ON A SUNNY AFTERNOON in the last days of summer, I broke the first rule I had ever been taught about watercraft and stood up in a canoe. Mike Magney and Moon Jacobson of the White Earth Band of Ojibwe had offered to take me out onto Little Elbow Lake
Saveur2 min read
Field of Dreams
EVERY SPRING, THE SUGAR SNAP PEAS AT MAGIC SEED farm in Twin Falls, Idaho, burst from the dirt like an alarm clock, signaling the upcoming summer bounty. For owner Rod Lamborn, these snap peas are a living tribute to his father, Dr. Calvin Lamborn, t
Saveur1 min readFood & Wine
Here Today, Gone Tomorrow
IN THE WEEKS LEADING UP TO the season, a buzz begins to form around the farmers market stalls. Come June in New York, I’m one of a flock of people waiting—fiending—for summer’s most fleeting food: sour cherries. The bracingly tart, more brightly colo
Saveur2 min read
Wild Rice Hash with Beef, Lentils, and Sumac-Roasted Tomatoes
SERVES 6–8 AS A MAIN COURSE Active: 1 hr. 40 min. • Total: 2 hr. Wild rice in northern Minnesota is often cooked with venison, which is sometimes ground with pork fat to enrich the lean meat. But fatty ground beef and lamb are more widely available s
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