Saveur11 min readFood & Wine
Strange Magic
PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRISTINA HOLMES “Verdelho,” whispers Luis D’Oliveira to his assistant, “noventa quarto, setenta e três, trinte e dois, doze.” Presiding over our tasting in a pressed striped shirt, hair combed neatly across his forehead, and with an i
Saveur1 min read
Sweet Succulents
FORAGING FOR NATIVE PLANTS has been a practice of Chile’s indigenous people for centuries. As part Mapuche, one of Chile’s native groups, I try to bring those same influences to the menu at Boragó, my restaurant in Santiago. Some of the most interest
Saveur9 min read
A Delicious Plague
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JASON JAACKS DIVE DIRECTION BY AARON KOSEBA We launch our kayaks at dawn from a pristine, sheltered cove and paddle about a quarter-mile up the pinnacle-studded Mendocino coastline to a craggy reef just offshore. Our mission is to scan
Saveur1 min readFood & Wine
Where There’s Smoke
ILLUSTRATION BY SPIROS HALARIS The cliffside village of Auchmithie, on Scotland’s northeast coast, once sat above a bustling commercial harbor; its stone cottages were home to hundreds of fisherfolk. The women of the town were renowned for their stre
Saveur1 min read
Waking the Dead
These inexpensive fish are often deep-fried (no pre-soaking needed) until crisp and fragrant, then eaten as a snack or appetizer. Among the most extravagant delicacies and prized for their slithery mouthfeel, sea cucumbers require lengthy soaking and
Saveur1 min read
Mussel Memory
THE BAY OF MONT SAINT-MICHEL divides Normandy and Brittany on France’s northern coast. Twice a day, the bay rises as much as 50 feet and then slinks away. At low tide, one might meander through the exposed mussel farms more than 100 yards out to the
Saveur4 min readFood & Wine
Whole Fish Game Plan
You don’t have to do it all yourself: Ask for your fish head-on, but scaled and gutted, with fins removed. At that point, all you need is a big cutting board, a few sharp knives, and these instructions Lay the cod on a large, washable cutting board,
Saveur2 min readFood & Wine
Oceans and Evolution
THERE’S A REASON I LOOK SO HAPPY filleting fish while wearing a silk blouse. saveur’s test kitchen has long been a second home for me, and there have been some thrilling changes coming out of here of late. It’s from this lucky place that I’ve headed
Saveur6 min readFood & Wine
Peruvian Ceviche
WALKING AROUND LIMA, where there are cevicherías in every neighborhood and each one is bursting with locals, you would never know that ceviche—a citrus-marinated seafood starter—wasn’t invented in Peru. Crude forms of the dish—at its most basic, raw
Saveur2 min read
Foreword
PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRISTINA HOLMES I grew up in France, splitting my time between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic sides, so the sea has always been important to me. On weekends, my family would gather to go fishing and scuba diving, and we’d bring bac
Saveur2 min read
The Feast of the Single Fish
FOR THE BETTER PART of American seafood history, home cooks deftly dealt with whole fish, whether they bought them or reeled them in themselves. But when pre-processed fillets were introduced into the American marketplace in the 1920s, these prime cu
Saveur7 min read
Memories of a Middle Eastern Fish Fry
AS TOLD TO SARAH ZORN ILLUSTRATION BY SPIROS HALARIS AS A PALESTINIAN CHRISTIAN, raised in Nazareth near the Sea of Galilee, I remember my family observing “Fish Fridays” all through my childhood. Abstaining from red meat was a religious ritual (in t
Saveur2 min read
Katsuobushi on Japan’s Ise-Shima Peninsula
Once they are fully fermented and dried, bonito fillets look and feel more like wooden sheaths than fish, with a brilliant red interior. Yukiaki Tenpaku reaches for a piece of raw ubame oak in his clifftop smoke hut, stoking a fire like the ones his
Saveur2 min read
Shrimp Baiting Off James Island
A little before sunset, a johnboat departs James Island, South Carolina, carrying three men, an empty cooler, bait, and marking poles. Chris Stewart, chef at Charleston’s Glass Onion, fought traffic after a day in the kitchen to be here. Shrimp baiti
Saveur6 min readFood & Wine
Test Kitchen
Making the most from leftover leche de tigre LITERALLY TRANSLATING TO “tiger’s milk,” leche de tigre is a critical part of Peruvian ceviche: The mix of citrus, chiles, aromatics, and fish stock flavors and gently “cooks” the raw fish. But in parts of
Saveur2 min readFood & Wine
“Crabbing” Dinner Cruises in Karachi’s Keamari Harbor
Saleem Razzaq (below) is well-known in Karachi’s harbor. His dinner cruises, which he hopes will someday be popular again, always feature the local mud crabs. Razzaq hopes that, now and then, customers will still be interested in a local boatman’s st
Saveur6 min readFood & Wine
In The Kitchen With Oysters
PHOTOGRAPHS BY TED CAVANAUGH FOOD STYLING BY STACY ADIMANDO Between the dollar specials and those tiny forks, oysters have become a food we, by and large, order at restaurants. But they’re not as high maintenance as you’d think: These briny bivalves
Saveur2 min read
The Menaica Nets of Italy’s Cilento Coast
Vittorio Marino Donatella Marino’s storefront is a few dozen diagonal yards from the marina in Pisciotta, a fishing village in the Cilento region of Italy. Directly in front of the shop, the Tyrrhenian Sea stretches westward to the horizon, and it’s
Saveur10 min readTravel
The Old Woman And The Sea
PHOTOGRAPHS BY SHIRLEY STOLZE A boat bearing floral tributes to sea-goddess Iemanjá makes its way out from the harbor in downtown Salvador. By midmorning, the festival is in full swing, with revelers and onlookers crowding the sand It’s not quite 4:3
Saveur1 min read
The Almond Wood Canoes of Sumba
When the ocean is calm and the moon on the wane, Habel Higa Lewa fishes for wahoo and mackerel late into the night along the coast of Sumba, an island in Indonesia’s Sunda Archipelago. He’s paddling a dugout canoe, which he will have labored over for
Saveur8 min read
The GREENHORN of Little PECONIC BAY
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW HETHERINGTON Oyster farmer Peter Stein and his barge, La Perla, are ready for a day on the water. The crew winches up a cage farmer Peter Stein LONG BEFORE IT WAS FAMOUS FOR PIZZA OR DIRTY-WATER DOGS OR CRONUTS, NEW YORK WAS A C
Saveur2 min read
Family-Produced Fish Sauce in Phú Quoc, Vietnam
As it ages, fish sauce takes on a dark, caramel-brown color; this young tasting sample was taken from Red Boat’s vermilion barrels. “Nobody at the time was exporting high-quality Vietnamese fish sauce like this to America.” One of nearly 800,000 refu
Saveur9 min readFood & Wine
Under The Palms
On the Thai island of Ko Yao Noi, no dish is complete without a hit of coconut.
Saveur2 min read
In A Dry Place By The Sea
NINE YEARS AGO, KOBUS VAN DER Merwe quit his job at a Cape Town food magazine to help his parents run a casual eatery in Paternoster, a small beachfront town about two hours’ drive north of the capital. Cooking every day and exploring with botanist a
Saveur2 min readFood & Wine
Eating and Exploring Madeira
The splurge choice, on Funchal’s outskirts, is the Belmond Reid’s Palace—with a storied past (including two stays by Winston Churchill), a 500-species botanical garden, and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Otherwise, look just outside the city at one o
Saveur2 min readFood & Wine
The Pepper Sauce Ladies of Nevis
STANDING STILL ON A RANDOM roadside on the tiny Caribbean island of Nevis, little sister to the better-known St. Kitts, you’re less likely to hear cars driving by than the sleepy sounds of wind blowing through mango trees, or goats bleating from a ba
Saveur7 min readFood & Wine
Joshua Skenes Has A Fleet Of Fishermen And An Abalone Farmer On Retainer
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED ANDERSON THE FLUKE IS KELP-BROWN AND SPECKLED, SHINY, STILL WET from the tank. It strains against the cutting board, thrusting up its head and tail to convulse into a taut, furious U. The spiny rays of its fins ripple, as if trying
Saveur4 min read
An Underwater Endeavor
Bren Smith joins his mentee Jay Florez at his vertical farm, where ropes of glistening kelp and nets of mussels will ultimately make their way onto restaurant menus all along the East Coast. Alongside the strands of kelp, mussels hang in nets, and oy
Saveur1 min readFood & Wine
More Fun with Fermentation
There’s a reason chef Cortney Burns of “A Living Larder” (pg. 22) has a basement filled wall to wall with jars. The art of fermenting vegetables is as simple as soaking them in salt and water, or—another technique she loves—rubbing them in salt so th
Saveur2 min readFood & Wine
Apples All Day
At the Glade Hill Cannery in Franklin County, Virginia, master canner Ronald David helps his neighbors process local heritage apples—like tart, vinous Staymans—into dense, jammy apple butter (see “Preserving Tradition,” page 18). The concentrated nat
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