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dinner, is a lesson in pristine presentation and elegant form there is much to see and admire before you even pick up your chopsticks to eat. e emphasis on appearance dovetails with other concepts in Japanese culture, such as wabi-sabi (the art of nding beauty in imperfection) and minimalism. In contrast, roadside tagine stops along Moroccos N9 roadway o er symmetrical, conical clay pots bubbling against a backdrop of the High Atlas Mountains. Presentation is not the focus, but it remains the primary takeaway. e value of these clay pots lies in their visual beauty and versatility. ere is a large Moroccan population in Montreal, and while I was familiar with the tagine as a result, nothing prepared me for the sight of dozens of ochre cones at the side of the road, steam rising toward the heavens.
Hand-painted tagines from Fes, Morocco.
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Jodi Ettenberg
and o er a service swap of sorts. I tell the vendor that I will bring guests from my hostel or hotel to the hawker stand for meals in exchange for being taught how to make a speci c dish on the menu. While some street vendors have balked at this idea, most have broken into a huge smile. Many vendors specialize in one main dish (or two or three), and build reputations around those simple options. By o ering customers in exchange for recipes, I gured out a way to eat well and learn in the process. I have engaged in this exchange in many countries around the world, with recipes to try upon my return visits to Montreal. It enabled me to not only connect to the vendors, who are mysti ed but attered that I would take such an interest in their food, but also to see the conditions of their work environment as I stood many times over, watching them cook in the heat and humidity, and even (in Kuala Lumpur) in the monsoon rains. e recipes I have accumulated from this experiment are not always mainstream, nor are they necessarily well-known variations on a popular dish. ey are merely the expert o erings of particular families or cooks, and dishes that piqued my fancy as I traveled. In recreating them at home, Ive brought friends and family along for the ride and provided them with new taste discoveries.