RememberingRobertReynolds

ByJessicaPoundstone

1.Atadinnerpartyatthehomeofourfriend,thewriterMarthaGiesinMay2008,myhusbandBen andIlistenedasMarthasfriend,thepoetDavidAbel,describedabookhelovedcalled,AnExcuseTo BeTogether.ItwasoneofthemostfantasticbooktitlesIdeverheard.Davidsaidthebookwasa collectionofessaysandrecipesbyachefnamedRobertReynolds,whohadformerlyrunarestaurant inSanFrancisco,andwhonowlivedinPortland.Healsosaidthatthebookwashardtofind,asitwas selfpublishedinasmallprintrun. 2.Onemonthlater,IwanderedintoastorethatsoldFrenchlinens,killingtimebeforeahair appointment.Onatableintheback,amongothermiscellaneousitemsonclearance,wasaslightly bedraggledcopyofthebook,signedbyRobertalarge,jauntyRinblackmarkeronthetitlepage. Notmuchbiggerthanthepalmofmyhand,theslimbookhadatextured,caramelbrowncoverwith

thetitleembossedinsmallsilverywhitefontattheupperleftcorner,andalinedrawingofamapof theNorthwestcornerofFranceontheback.Iboughtit. Twentyminuteslater,browsingthroughacopyofPortlandMonthlymagazineatthehairdressers,the pageopenedtoastunningpictureofRobertandhisstandardgreypoodle,Thomas,intheir meticulouslyappointedsoutheastPortlandworkspace,TheChefsStudio.Robertstandsfacingthe camerainhischefscoatwithapeachdemitassecupinonehand,thesaucerintheother,while Thomassitsinprofilelookingloyallyupathismaster.AstainlesssteelislandisinfrontofRobert,an orangeandyellowLeCruesetpotisonthebottomshelf,andbehindhimisahugepowderblueoven. A.CopyrightnoticeforAnExcusetoBeTogether:Copyright2006RobertReynolds.All rightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproduced,copied,ordistributedwithoutprior writtenconsentfromtheauthor.Butfeelfreetopassonanyrecipeatwill. 3.Threeyearslater,havingmovedfromnortheasttosoutheastPortland,Ifrequentlysawamaninhis sixtieswalkinghisstandardgreypoodle.Oneday,passinghimonthesidewalk,Igotupthecourageto speak.AreyouRobertReynolds?Why,yes,hesaidkindly,expectantly,smiling.Asitturnedout,he livedoneblockawayfrommyhouse. B.Whatwouldyousaytoanoviceinthekitchentohelpthemgetovertheirfearof cooking? Beguidedbyloveoftheengagement,ratherthanthefearofmakingamistake.Whenthings areperfect,inaway,nothinghasbeenlearned. 4.BenandIwouldsayhellotoRobert,orwavewhenwepassedonthesidewalkorinourcars.My childrengoofy,extrovertedHenry,three,andthemorereservedSophie,six,lovedThomas,and Robertlovedthechildrenforthat.AnytimeHenryspottedthetwoofthem,hewouldyellThomas!at thetopofhislungs,andtryhisbesttoruntopethim.RobertssliverAirstreamtrailerwasalways parkedinfrontofhiscozy,Europeanstyleduplex.Onthebackofitwasayellowandredbumper stickerlettingyouknowthatthatifyoumessedwithhisAirstream,yourasswouldbekicked. C.Atthestartofanalldaycookingclass:Itsaparty.Whatthehell.Herewego. 5.Oneday,whileplayingwithSophieandHenryatthefieldofSophiesschool,BuckmanElementary, whichistwoblocksfromourhouse,SophieandHenryandIranintoourfriendsandneighborsSteve andLyndsey.TheyfrequentlycametoruntheirtwosmalldogsStanley,white,moppishandill tempered,andOlive,black,moppishandmildmannered.Steve,thehip,bespectacledassistantpastor atourchurch,andLyndsey,hiswife,aneccentriccomedienne,nanny,andathletespecializinginyoga andbiking,livedinanapartmentatthewestendofthefield. Asweweretalking,amaninablackcoatandadrivingcaparrivedwithamediumsized,fawncolored, energeticandfluffydog.SteveandLyndseyintroducedus.Kip,whomtheyhadmetwhiletheirdogs playedtogether,livedinalarge,white,oldPortlandhouseattheeastendofthefieldwithhiswife Colleen,theirtwoelementaryagedchildrenElizaandEliot,andtheirdogSukie.Kip,amusician, workedforalocalarchitecturefirmasabusinessdeveloper;Colleenwasabouttostartgradschool. Aswechatted,KipmentionedthathehadspentafairamountoftimeasastudentinFrance,wherehe hadalsolearnedtocook.ThinkingofRobert,whospentagreatdealoftimecookingandteachingin 2

France,Iaskedifanyofthemhadmethim.Kip,havinglivedintheneighborhoodformorethanten years,knewwhohewas,andSteveandLyndseyhadseenhimwithThomasonthefieldoccasionally. Butnoneofthemknewhimverywell. IsuggestedthatweshouldhaveaneighbordinnerandinviteRobert.Theyagreedthatwouldbe lovely,ifRobertwasgame.KipandmyhusbandBenhadbothspentextendedperiodsoftimein France,wheretheydeepenedtheirloveoffoodandtheritualsofthetable,andwewereallneighbors. IfelttheseconnectionswereexcuseenoughtofindRobertsemailaddressandissueaninvitation. D.Risottoisnotrice,Isaid.Risoisrice.Andifyourmotherorgrandmothermadeit,you wouldoftenbeadmonishedtosaveagrainortwofortheangels.Theideabeingthatthedish issowonderfulthatyouwanttoeateverylastgrain.But,toshowyourgratitude,youmake anoffering.Sometimesitishard;youdebate,andyouleavethatlastgrainoryoueatit. TheydonotspeakthiswayofSpecialK,forinstance,Itoldher. 6.Thedatewassetviaanemailexchange:October25thatKipandColleenshouse.Wewereallto bringdifferentelementsofthemealvegetables,appetizers,aperitifs,etc.Robertemailedearlyonto volunteertobringthemaincourse. Onthedayofthedinner,weallassembledatKipandColleenseveryoneexceptRobert.Colleensaid hehadstoppedbyearlierinthedaytoexplainthathehaddoublebookedhimself,apologize,anddrop offourmaincourse,chickenanddumplings,aswellasadessert,apinklayercakewithpinkfrosting. Wewentonwithourmeal,sadnottohaveRobertthereinperson,butenchantedbyhisgesture.The chickenandthepinkcakewerebothperfect,exquisite. Inanemailsenttothegroupafterwards,Robertapologizedagain.Hehadbeenagatheringto rememberafriendwhohaddied,somethinghedideachyear.Ilovedmakingthemainjustthesame andthoughtofthepleasureitgavemetoknowyouweretogether,eatingwell,beinggraciously hosted.Thatmatteredmost. Muchlater,Ilaterrealizedhewaslikelygatheringwithotherstorememberhisteacher,friendand belovedmentorJosephineAraldo,aculinarylegendwhodiedinOctoberof1989. E.Checkouttheclassessection.YouwillalsofindaseriesbyMariettaSiscaonItalianhome cooking.Or,KristenD.Murrayofferingaseriesonpastry.Yourlifewontbethesame. 7.ThesecondneighbordinnerdatewassetforNovember29,2011atourhouse,thetopleftunitina 1910craftsmanstylefourplex.PorkloinbyBen,afreshgreensaladbyKipandColleen,butternutsoup fromSteveandLyndsey.AndbyRobert,chickenlivermousseonbaguette,andabeautifulvanillapot decrme. Robertknewhowtoinhabitadinnerparty.Hewasallcharmingstoriesandwittyoneliners.I rememberopiningaboutmydisdainforthetrendoflightroastedcoffee,thattheFrenchandthe Italiansknewwhattheyweredoing,andthatanythingotherthanadarkroastwasawasteofspace. Robertsreply:IthinkyouandIweremeanttobetogether. F.Wecookforyou,youtalkwithus.Weserve,youeatanddrink.Seemslikeanagreeable waytospendanevening. 3

8.Thethirdand,asitturnedout,finalneighbordinnerwasplannedforMarch2012.Ilaterraninto RobertandThomasonthesidewalkoneafternoon.Wekissedhello,andIaskedhimwhathekindof foodweshouldhaveatourdinner.Withaslygrin,hesaid,IthinkweshoulddoIndian. Isuggestedthistothegroupviaemail.Allwereenthusiastic,butnonehadtackledIndianfoodbefore, andtheywantedfurtherdirection.Inresponse,Robertsentoutadozendifferentrecipestothegroup tochoosefrom,sayingIfit'sallGreek,givemeacall.I'mgladtosortitout.Thiswillbefun. Onthenightofthedinner,whichwasbackatKipandColleensagain,Benspoonedbatterforroti smallcornmealbasedtortillasintoasmallfryingpanonthegasstove.Weallgatheredaroundboth sidesoftheopenkitchenislandtowatchhim.AsBenfinishedcookingeachroti,oneatatime,heslid itfromthepantoRobertwhowouldcradleitinhispalmaddascoopoffilling,andhanditouttoone ofus.Benmadethefood,andRobertgiftedittous. RobertbroughtsquatlittlebottlesofSessionbeerandchicken&applechutney.Therewasmagicand heatandfenugreekleaves,andjoy.Itwashardtoleave.Itwaspouringdownrain,andwewere soakedtotheskinbythetimewewalkedthetwoandahalfblockshome. G.ThomaslikescomingandgoingthroughtheAirstreamsopendoor.Itslikeabig doghouse.Itsjustlargeenoughtograspquicklywhereeverythingis,dogdish,water, sleepingspot.Hewaslessexcitedbyitatthestart.Hedoesntlikethepickuptruckasmuch ashelikedtheElementIhadbefore.TheElementwasreallydogfriendly.Thepickuptruck mightbefriendlyifhegottorideinthebackbedlikeafarmdog.ButImnotafarmerora cowboy.Idonthaveagunrackacrossthebackwindow.Ihavethoughtofinstallingagun rackandthensettingawhisklargeenoughtospanthewindow. 9.Here,myfriendMarthamakesanotherappearance.SheinvitedmeandBenfordinnerwithNinh Filip,aVietnamesephotographerfriend.Atsomepoint,ImentionedRobertsname.Youknow Robert?sheasked.Ihavealwayswantedtomeethim.Shereacheddownintoacupboardand pulledoutabook,FromaBretonKitchen,whichRobertcoauthoredwithJosephineAraldo.This bookisbrilliant,shesaid.Shedescribedthestructureofthebook:thefirstthirdcontainsrecipesfrom BrittanythatJosephinegrewupwith.Themiddlesectioncontainstheclassicalbutterandcreamrich recipesusedatCordonBleuwhereJosephinestudied.Thethirdsectioncontainsrecipesforthevery samevegetablesthatJosephineandRobertcreatedandusedatLeTrouinSanFrancisco.Robert studiedunderJosephineinCaliforniauntilshewaswellintoher80s,andwasoneofherlaststudents. Marthaopenedthebookandsearchedforsomething.Readthis,shesaid,handingmethebookand pointingtoaspotonthepage.IreadaloudapassagedescribinghowRobert,duringJosephineslast daysinahospital,wasunabletobearthethoughtofherhavingtoeatinstitutionalfood.So,racing acrosstownonamotorbikeinhischefsuniform,hetookherwhatturnedouttobeherlastmeal.I lovethatmanforhisgifttoJosephine,saidMarthaagain.DoyouthinkIcouldmeethim? H.WedroppedeverythingandpreparedthefoodforJosephine:apotofcaffiltreexcellent, fresh,hotcoffeeinajellyjar;asmallpotofcream,atinofcanesugar;amasonjarofsoup; twocrepeswrappedcarefully;ajellyjarofsorbetmadefromstrawberriesandredwine, carefullywrappedinnewspapertokeepitchilled.Shehadaravenousappetiteandate 4

everythingwithgreatrelish.Shesaidasshefinishedthesoup,Yourfoodisalwaysthebest, Robeirt. 10.IemailedRobertonJuly1tosuggestadinnerwithMartha.Ididnthearback.Ididntseehim aroundtheneighborhood. 11.InearlyJuly,ColleeninvitedBenandmetoKipsbirthdaypartyattheirhouse.Shortlyafterwe arrived,Kippulledusaside.HetoldusthatRoberthadbeendiagnosedwithbraincancer,andhad beengivenonlyafewmonthstolive.KipandColleenhadattendedafundraiserforRobertwhoseplan wastotraveltoEuropewithasmallgroupoffriends,andliveouthislastdaysinFrance.Hewas hopingRobertwouldbeabletomakeittothepartythatevening,butwasntsurehewould. I.Geographyshapesourinitialviewoftheworld.Myownhorizonwasframedbygrowing upinNewEngland;forJamesBeard,itwasOregon.Hisattachmenttothisplace,toits people,andthefoodsthatcomefromherewereallofapiece. Thelessonstobedrawnfromaloveofplaceareallverysimple,andthemessageisclear. Whenwesay,Lifeistheberries,weknowofwhatwespeak.Ourberriesarestill magnificent.Beardssenseofbelonginghaditssourceintheberries,thesalmon,oysters, crab,andthemyriadformsofourlocalbounty.Histravelsaroundtheworldtaughthimthat thesethingsarenotfoundinthesamewayanywhereelse.Foodfunctionsasadaily reminderofhowgoodlifecanbe. 12.RobertarrivedatKipspartywithThomasabouttwentyminuteslater.Heseemedabit disappointedthatKiphadtoldusthenews.Perhapshewashopingforaneveningfreeofthe heavinessofpeopleknowing. Itwasaperfect,glorioussummerafternoon.BenandRobertandIsatinasmallcircleofchairs together,withmoundsoflavenderbloomingbesideus.Otherguestswereknottedintheirown conversationsaroundus.BenandIdrinkwine,atefingerfood,andtalkedwithRobertfortheentire hourhespenttherehedidntknowanyoneelseatthegathering,andneitherdidwe.Itwasthefirst timeIdbeenwithadyingpersonataparty.Itriedtostopmyselffromusinganoverabundanceof smalltalktocovermyshockandsadness.Myimpulseisusuallytokeepconversationsgoingbyasking questions.ButeveryquestionIaskedfeltuncomfortablylikeanattempttogetsomethingfromhim tocoaxoutormanufacturemyveryownspecialmemoryofRobert.Hisenergywaslowerthanusual, andhelookedrundown.Icouldntimaginehowanythinganyonewassayingcouldhavematteredin muchtohim.Butwhatdidmattermosttohimnow? J.Eachsessioninthekitchenstudioinvolvesanewchallengetostretchideasand thinking.Slowlyandsteadilyastheirknowledgestretches,theygeteachthing,onepieceat atimeandtheneventuallybunchesofideas,fallintoplace,andselfpossessionappears. Whattheydontrealizeatthispointisthatthegettingitwillcontinuetooccurforyears. 13.Thomaswaslyingunderanearbytable,asleep.RobertgotuptogoinsideforadrinkandThomas immediatelygotupandfollowedhim.OfcourseThomasknew. 5

14.ItoldRobertwewoulddoanythingforhim.Wewillcleanyourhouse.Iwillcleanyourtoilet. Youmayhavetogetinline,hequippedwithasmile.Good,Isaid.Idontlikecleaningtoilets anyway.Ihuggedhimabitlongerthanusual,andkissedhischeekashepreparedtoleave.Imsure Illseeyouaroundtheneighborhood,hesaidasheandThomasturnedtogo.Illbearound.Itwas thelasttimewesawhim. K.Americanshaveanimageoffoodthatmostlycomesfromrestaurantexperience. However,foodismeanttonourishbodyandspirit,invariety,style,techniqueand presentation.Itformspartofthefabricoflifecenteredaroundthetable. 15.Thenextday,ItoldthekidsthatRobertwasdying. ButwhatwillhappentoThomas?askedSophie. 16.OnAugust27,2012,Steveemailed,OurfriendRoberthaspassed.Heincludedalinktoan Oregonianarticle,whichreadReynolds,whowas70yearsold,passedpeacefullysurroundedathome byfriendsandfamilyandaveryniceArmagnac. Inanotherarticle,intheonlinemagazineEater,acheffriendofRoberts,MikeThelin,wrote,Today thePortlandfoodcommunitylostitslion.Mostareluckytoinfluenceoneortwopeopleduringa lifetime.RobertReynoldsinspiredhundredsifnotthousands.Tothosewhoknewhim,ourlivesare foreverbetterthankshiswit,wisdom,warmth,generosity,andapointofviewthatsoughttruthin ingredientandjustabouteverythingelse. 17.Thatevening,thechildrenandIcutpinkrosesanddaisiesfromouryard,andtookthemtoRoberts housetoputonhisfrontporch.Itdidntoccurtomethattherewouldbeanyonethere.Butwhenwe arrived,severalpeopleweresteppingouthisfrontdoor.Sophiehadtakenthebundleofblowersup thefewstairstotheporchandputitdown.Onerosewasstillinherhand,andshebeganpullingpetals off,andscatteringthemaroundtheporchanddownthestairs.Oh,isntthatlovely,saidoneofthe women,pausingtowatch.WewerejustinsiderememberingRobert.Throughmystreamingtears,I chokedouttheonlythingthatcametomind,Wewerehisneighbors. L.Amongmyobjectivesistogivethesecooksastandardofexcellenceagainstwhichthey canjudgewhentheyfindthemselvesaloneinthekitchen.Itseemstomethatthe psychologicalcomponentofcookingdemandsselfpossession.Sothesubject,thelearning situations,andtheenvironmentmustconspiretoengenderthefeelingthatIknowthis. 18.Youdontjustmournsomeonesabsencewhenyoumourntheirdeath.Youalsomournallofthe thingsthatwonthappeninthefuture.IdlookedforwardtoknowingRobertforalongtime.Idlooked forwardtoeverysidewalkencounter,everyconversation,everygloriousmeal.WhatIwillalwayshave 6

 aremymemoriesofRobert,andofthemealswesharedwithneighborsandfriends.Andweall,of course,havehisrecipes,andhisinstructionsforcreatingthem. M.Inyouropinion,whatarethemostimportantelementswhencreatingarecipefrom scratch? Havegoodingredients Keepitsimple Understandthestepstothedish Payattentiontothedetails Proceedslowly Enjoytheengagement Andremember,you'refeedingotherswhenyoufeedpeople,younurturethem.

JessicaPoundstoneisawriterlivingintheBuckmanneighborhoodofPortland,Oregonwithher husbandBen,andherkidsSophieandHenry.Reachheratjpoundstoneatgmaildotcom. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Sources

A.FromAnExcuseToBeTogether,byRobertReynolds. B.ReluctantGourmetwebsite,interviewwithRobert:http://www.reluctantgourmet.com/chef_robert_reynolds.htm C.BlakeVanRoekelsblog:http://chefstudioschool.wordpress.com D.Robertsblog,http://www.thechefstudio.com/2011/07/travelswiththomasforagingfarming/ E.Robertsblog:http://www.thechefstudio.com/2011/09/cooksdream/ F.Robertsblog:http://www.thechefstudio.com/2011/11/openhousenovember6th/ G.Robertsblog:http://www.thechefstudio.com/2011/07/nothingtobeafraidof H.FromaBretonGarden:TheVegetableCookeryofJosephineAraldo,page338 I.Robertsblog:http://www.thechefstudio.com/2011/04/thefinalexamwithrecipe/ J.Robertsblog:http://www.thechefstudio.com/2011/02/whenknowledgeisgooditservesyou2/ K.Robertsblog:http://www.thechefstudio.com/2011/08/1289/ L.Robertsblog:http://www.thechefstudio.com/2011/08/1289/ M.ReluctantGourmetwebsite,interviewwithRobert:http://www.reluctantgourmet.com/chef_robert_reynolds.htm)