Pattern 7538

pattern pieces
A A A A A A A A A A B B B B B B B B B B B B B B C C C C C C C D D D D D D D D 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Center Front / Inside 1x (CD Lining) Side Front / Inside 2x (CD Lining) Back / Inside 2x (CD Lining) Front 1x Back 1x Front Facing 1x Back Facing 1x Upper Flounce 4x Lower Flounce A 4x, B 8x Strap 2x Train 2x Train / Extension Band / Train 1x Strap 2x Belt 1x Strap 6x Sleeve 2x Rose 18x
Use BURDA carbon paper to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other lines and markings to the wrong side of the fabric pieces according to package instructions. LINING Use pieces 1 to 3 and 10 to cut the lining for view A. Use pieces 1 to 3 and 15 to cut lining for view B. Use pieces 1 to 3 to cut the lining for view C. Use pieces 1 to 3, 10 and 15 to cut the lining for view D. = See pattern sheet for cutting diagrams. Seam and hem allowances must be added to the pattern pieces. 5/8 in (1.5 cm) at all seams and edges. Transfer pattern piece outlines to the lining pieces. INTERFACING Cut interfacing as illustrated and iron on the wrong side of the fabric pieces. Iron interfacing on the wrong side of the lining for piece 15. Transfer pattern outlines to interfacing pieces.

D D D

sewing
When sewing, right sides of fabric should be facing. Transfer all pattern lines to the right side of the fabric with basting thread.

the cutting layouts are on the pattern sheet preparing pattern pieces
Choose your size according to the Burda measurement chart on the pattern sheet: dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to your bust measurement, pants and skirts according to your hip measurement. Adjust the pattern pieces, if necessary, by adding or subtracting the number of inches that your measurements differ from the measurements given in the Burda chart.

AB

UNDERDRESS (Fabric) Front Panel Seams

1 Lay side fronts right sides together with center front. Baste panel
seams (seam number 1) and stitch. Trim allowances, neaten together and press toward center front. Stitch center back seam. Neaten allowances, press open. Side Seams / Left Slit

ABCD

Cut out the following pattern pieces in the required size from the pattern sheet: for the DRESS view A pieces 1 to 10, for the DRESS view B pieces 1 to 9 and 11 to 15, for the DRESS view C pieces 1 to 7 and 16, for the DRESS view D pieces 1 to 7, 10, 15, 17 and 18. B Important: Stick on the extension before cutting out: piece 12 to piece 11.

Lay front right sides together with back. Baste right side seam from upper to lower edges (seam number 2) and stitch. Trim allowances, neaten together and press onto back. Stitch left side seam from lower edges to about 10 cm (4 ins) below slit mark (arrow). FLOUNCES

lengthen or shorten pattern pieces

Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5 feet, 6 inches (168 cm). If you are taller or shorter, you may adjust the pattern to fit your size at the lines marked lengthen or shorten here. = Make sure that you adjust all pieces of one model by the same amount at the same lines. How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces: Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines. To lengthen, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far apart as necessary. To shorten, overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far as necessary. Even out the side edges.

Upper flounce: Lay two upper flounce pieces each right sides together, stitch front and back center seam. Lay pieces right sides together, stitch side seams. Trim allowances, neaten together and press to one side.

4 Press allowance at lower edge to inside. Topstitch fold edge with

close zigzag stitching. Trim surplus allowance close to stitching. TIP: Test-stitch on a scrap of fabric to check stitch setting and thread tension. Use machine embroidery thread. Lower flounces: Construct two lower flounces (of different fabrics for view A) as for upper flounce.

Baste one lower flounce (of floral print fabric I for view A) right sides together with lower edge of underdress, matching side seams. Stitch. Trim allowances, neaten together and press onto flounces.

cutting out
FOLD ( ) means: Here is the center of a pattern piece but in no case a cut edge or seam. The piece should be cut double, with the fold line forming the center line. Pattern pieces outlined with a broken line in the cutting diagram are to be placed face down on the fabric. The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric. A Fabric I and Fabric II Cut pieces 4 to 7 and 10 of fabric I, pieces 1, 2, 3 and 8 of fabric II, piece 9 four times each of fabric I and fabric II. = See cutting diagrams on pattern sheet. D Contrasting Fabric Cut pieces 15 and 18 of contrasting fabric. = See cutting diagrams on pattern sheet.

6 Neaten upper flounce and baste right sides together with underdress along joining line, matching side seams. Stitch. Press flounce down.

ABCD UNDERDRESS (Lining)

Stitch front panel seams as described and illustrated in step 1 and center back seam. CD: Stitch side seams as described and illustrated in step 2. = For views A and B, stitch side seams of lining opposite of on underdress of top fabric. Stitch one side seam just to slit mark. Facing: Stitch right side seam (seam number 4), stitch side seam for views CD opposite of on underdress. Press allowances open. Neaten lower edge of facing.

ABCD

7 AB: Baste facing on upper edge of underdress of lining with wrong

side facing right side and matching side seams. Stitch lower edge. CD: Baste facing on upper edge of underdress of lining with wrong sides facing and matching side seams. Stitch lower edge.

ABCD

For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to the right side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides are facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the wrong side. Pattern pieces shown in the cutting diagram extending over the fold of the fabric should be cut last from a single layer of fabric. SEAM AND HEM ALLOWANCES must be added to the pattern pieces: 5/8 in (1.5 cm) for hem, sleeve hem and at all other seams and edges except on pieces 14 and 16 (seam allowance is already included on the pattern piece).

AB

Stitch the other lower flounce (of fabric II for view A) onto lower edge of dress as described and illustrated in step 5.

8 Fold each front so that pleat lines meet. Stitch lines together from
upper edges to arrow. Secure ends of stitching. Stitch pleat folds together at a slant as illustrated. The middle pleat is an inverted pleat. Press all pleat folds from the middle toward the side edge, baste at upper edge. Stitch and press pleats on back likewise. Stitch side seams as described and illustrated in step 2 (seam number 3).

1-2

7538_Erw_EN_2.indd 1

26.10.2009 16:31:24 Uhr

Pattern 7538
AB

Lay zipper bands over allowances at the top. Turn allowances to

inside and sew on by hand. Stitch remaining side seam of dress and lining separately as described and illustrated in step 11. Neaten hem / lining hem as described and illustrated in step 4. Try on dress, pin straps under back edge from marking and sew on by hand.

Place dress over underdress of fabric with wrong side facing right side. Baste upper edges together, matching seams. Baste edges of slit together from upper edges to slit mark and neaten together. Clip allowances of dress at slit mark (arrow). Invisible zipper: You will need a special presser foot for invisible zippers. The zipper should be a bit longer than the opening.

D Roses

J Open the zipper and pin face down on the seam allowance at one

Fold strip for roses on FOLD LINE, wrong side facing in. Pin open

edge of the opening. The teeth of the zipper must lie exactly on the marked opening edges. Stitch the zipper with the special presser foot, stitching close to teeth of zipper. Stitch zipper onto other edge likewise (10a). Stitch both edges of opening from the top to the slit mark (arrow). The teeth of an invisible zipper roll inward and are held flat by the special presser foot. Close zipper.

edges together. To gather edges, stitch two closely spaced lines of machine basting (longest stitch setting). Pull bobbin threads and roll up each strip to form a rose. Knot ends of threads Sew edges together. Sew 9 roses each to straps (22a).

BD Belt

Baste belt to belt lining with wrong side facing right side and treat as one layer of fabric from now on.

K Stitch remaining side seam on underdress as far as possible to

slit mark. Lay zipper aside to stitch. Secure ends of stitching. Stitch side seam of dress likewise. Trim allowances of seams, neaten together and press to one side.

{ Press allowances on underlap to inside. Fold belt lengthwise, right

side facing in. Stitch edges together as illustrated. Trim allowances, trim corners diagonally. Turn belt. Baste edges and press. Edgestitch open end together. B: Sew TRIM (of organza with roses) to belt. BD: Sew BOTTOM HALVES OF SNAPS to underlap. Sew HALVES OF SNAPS on underside of other edge. Tip: Try on belt to check the fit first. press to one side. Neaten side and lower edges as described and illustrated in step 4. Fold pleats at upper edge in arrow direction, baste. Make a THREAD LOOP centered on lower edge. Sew BUTTON on in back of dress at waist level.

A Straps

Baste straps to lining straps with wrong side facing right side and treat as one layer of fabric from now on.

L Fold straps lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch edges together
as illustrated. Trim allowances, trim corners diagonally. Turn straps. panel seams.

B Train: Stitch center seam. Trim allowances, neaten together and

M Baste straps right sides together with upper edge of dress at front
B Straps

N Fold straps lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch 1/4 (0.7 cm) next

} Stitch band to upper edge (seam number 5). Turn in allowance at

to fold edge. Trim allowances. Leave a length of thread hanging, insert into a darning needle. Push needle eye first through fabric tube to turn right side out (14a). Baste straps in place as described and illustrated in step 13.

narrow edges. Press allowances onto band, press allowance at other long edge to inside. Turn band to inside on fold line, baste at joining seam. Topstitch close to edges (24a).

AB Upper Edge of Dress / Lining

Pin band on upper edge of dress matching centers. Topstitch edge

O Pin underdress of lining with facing right sides together with upper

edge of dress, matching seams. Fold out side edges of lining 3/16 (0.5 cm) before edges of slit and pin in place. Fold zipper bands out and pin at edge lying over lining. Baste and stitch upper edges. Catch straps in between. Trim seam allowances and press onto lining. Topstitch lining close to joining seam (15a).

of dress 1/4 (0.7 cm) wide, catching band. Lay train of dress out over upper edge. Sew narrow trim on along upper edge of dress, beginning and ending at the train.

P Turn lining to inside, baste edge and press. Sew lining on at zipper

bands by hand. Stitch every other pleat from the right side the width of the facing, catching lining. A: Sew TRIM on upper edge of dress and to straps. AB: Try on dress, pin straps under back edge from marking and sew on by hand.

C (Braided) Straps

Q Twist three strips of fabric and braid together for each strap. Stitch
ends together to prevent from coming apart. Baste straps in place as described and illustrated in step 13.

D Straps / Sleeves

Neaten allowance at outer edge of sleeve as described and illustrated in step 4. To gather between the ! , stitch two closely spaced lines of machine basting (longest stitch setting). Pull bobbin threads to gather to length of straps.

R S

Stitch sleeve right sides together with one edge of strap. Leave strap overhanging. Trim allowances and press onto strap. Press allowance at other long edges to inside. Fold strap in half on FOLD LINE, stitch close to joining seam (19a). Baste straps in place as described and illustrated in step 13.

CD Upper Edge of Dress / Lining

T Pin underdress of lining to upper edge of dress with wrong side

facing right side and matching seams. The facing lies right sides together with dress. Baste and stitch upper edges together. Catch in straps. Trim seam allowances and press onto lining. Topstitch lining close to joining seam (see illustration 15a). Turn lining to inside, baste edge and press. Baste lining at slit edges of dress. Neaten edges together. Clip allowances of dress at slit mark (see illustration 9). Stitch pleats from right side as described and illustrated in step 16. Stitch in invisible zipper as described and illustrated in step 10.

2-2

7538_Erw_EN_2.indd 2

26.10.2009 16:31:24 Uhr