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You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Diamonds as an investment - Buying and selling for profit
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Clothing stores have huge mark-ups; this we know from the end of season sales markdowns. But clothing stores turn their stock around 4 times faster than jewelers; so to make up for stock turns jewelers need very big mark-ups to stay in business.
So why buy jewelry as an investment? 1. Not everyone trusts banks. In some cultures and countries often +10% of wealth is "portable". Cashing in gold and diamonds helped many Chinese escape from Indonesia in 1997. 2. Some women consider their jewels as security or "running away assets" (few diamonds are returned if the relationship ends). 3. Jewels are emotional or family investments; a band of diamonds marks a child's birth, a ruby bangle for a 40th wedding anniversary etc. They are usually an important part of an inheritance. The more love in the family, the higher the non monetary value. 4. A $100,000 diamond ring has more 'investment' potential than a $1,000 ring. You do not buy a $1,000 painting hoping to sell it in a few years for $5,000. There is relatively less cost to selling an expensive piece; as the value goes up, seller's margins come down, just like in real estate. 5. Less people are diamond investors. It is easier for a buyer to compare the prices of many similar cars, properties or shares. Jewelry requires a lot of specialized expertise. OK, you are not buying jewelry to sell for a profit. But you want to buy something that will gain in intrinsic value. What is the best investment? 1. Consider buying something that can be worn most of the time (not left at home for thieves) and you may not need to pay to insure it. 2. A single diamond does not go up in value faster than say a pair or a matched set in a 3 stone ring. 3. But a single stone may be more liquid than a collection. A single stone might cost less to set. 4. Investment diamonds must be D Flawless or VVS quality. What rubbish! Rarer diamonds are the hardest for you to sell. Medium quality diamonds (with no visible imperfections or obvious discoloration) are more saleable, and go up in value at a proportional rate to rarer more expensive diamonds. 5. Princess cuts are hot at the moment, but in a few years they will be passe. Heart shapes, marquise and other shapes come and go in fashion. Round brilliant cut diamonds are definitely the best most resell-able in the long-term. 6. 90% of round diamonds are poorly cut. A clever buyer will buy a non-traditional Ideal Cut' diamond that will fit into the new GIA and AGS best cut standards. 7. Fancy colored pink diamonds may become rare if the Australian Argyle mine output falls as appears likely. But pinks are hard to re-sell.
Advanced Info
Tolkowsky Ideal Cut Crown and Pavilion Holloway Cut Adviser AGS Ideal Cut Firescope & Ideal-Scope Hearts and Arrows Diamonds Table Size Fish-eye 60:60 Spread Diamond Girdle Thickness Diamond Culet Diamond Symmetry Diamond Polish Diamond Fluorescence Proportion Scanners Brilliance, Fire and Scintillation Pricing & Lab's Diamond Glare Treatments & Synthetics Investment
There are lots of opportunities for those prepared to do some homework via Pricescope and the internet to both enjoy beautiful diamonds and secure a bit of diversity in your investments. But don't buy with a goal of making money by reselling, unless you make it your raison d'etre. Best of all, many vendors will trade diamonds up. Some are especially generous with stones they sold in the first place. The only caveat is that that you must spend the same amount as the original purchase or the trade in value. Discuss on the Forum AGA Cut Charts
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Engagement Rings, Wedding Bands, and Luxury Designer Jewelry at Pearlman's Jewelers
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DIAMOND GUIDE
Welcome to Pricescope's 4Cs Diamond Guides. Learn everything you need to know about buying a diamond-starting with the basics. The 4Cs are factors that determine a diamond's quality and price. The Guides will give you the information you need to make an educated purchase online or at your local jeweler. Have questions while you learn? Register for our forums and get help from knowledgeable consumers and experienced diamond trade members.
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The 4Cs
Carat Weight is the simplest and only truly objective factor of the 4C's. Diamond carat weight is also the biggest influence on price.
Diamond Cut
Clarity refers to the existence of internal and external imperfections that characterize an individual diamond.
Diamond Color
Cut refers to the proportions and relative angles of a faceted diamond. Cut is a quality factor that determines value along with the other 4Cs.
Diamond color refers to how little color is present within a diamond. Learn more about diamond color and value.
What diamond should you get? This guide will help you prioritize the 4Cs.
Is it Safe to Buy Online?
Independent 3rd party report to help you verify your diamond purchase.
Anatomy of a Round Brilliant Diamond
Modern round brilliant cut diamonds are composed of flat polished surfaces called facets. These facets are arranged in a specific pattern to receive light and to return light to a viewers eye.
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The Lesotho One - 71.73 carat emerald cut diamond The original rough diamond named "The Lesotho" was over 601 carats and was purchased by Harry Winston in 1968. The rough was cut into 18 gems, and the Lesotho One was the largest at 71.73 carats.
What is a "Carat?"
1 carat = 200 milligrams or .200gm 1 carat = 100 points - so a point is 1/100 of a carat Sometimes you may hear a jeweler refer to a diamond in points. A 25 point (25pt) diamond is a .25ct or 1/4ct. *Fun Fact - The origin of the word "carat" comes from the carob seed. Gemstones were once weighed on balance scales, and gem dealers used carob seeds as counterweights, because of their uniform shape, size and roughly equivalent mass. Carat weight was standardized to .20gm in the early 20th century.
http://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/diamond-carat-weight/[10/02/2011 17.10.01]
*Note - While excess depth is undesirable in round diamonds, depth is function of design with some Fancy Shape Diamonds, which are cut to different specifications.
http://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/diamond-carat-weight/[10/02/2011 17.10.01]
Related Threads and Articles: Carat weight vs. finger size - finger coverage percentage What are the minimum "Cs", for my diamond purchase? What is the Carat Weight Sweet Spot? Carat, Carat, Carat! The round vs square "size" debate Cut, Clarity, Carat, or Color?... HELP!!! 4 Cs: Which is most important to you? Under 1ct diamonds
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Posted by jcrow 2.13 J SI2 Ideal Cut Diamond *Note - This tutorial discusses cut quality of round brilliant diamonds. For more information about Fancy Shapes, please visit: Fancy Diamond Shape Tutorial
Anatomy of a Round Brilliant Diamond Grading Report What diamond to Buy? Is it Safe to buy online? Appraisal Essentials
Diamond Anatomy
To understand diamond cut, the first step is learning the parts of a diamond. Please visit: Anatomy of a Round Brilliant Diamond for the basic facet structure. The image below shows essential proportions of diamond cut. Proportions
http://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/diamond-cut/[10/02/2011 17.10.18]
Diamond Cut | PriceScope IGI Diamond Reports EGL US HRD Antwerp *Note - AGS Labs has developed the first diamond cut grade for princess cut diamonds, and cut grades are offered on oval cut and emerald cut diamonds. For more information on the AGS Lab fancy shape diamond cut grades please visit: AGS Light Performance Cut Grade
2. Direct assessment Ideal-Scope viewers and photos show leakage and light return. Hearts and Arrows viewers are for grading symmetry, but some H&A's do not score <2 on HCA. Optical symmetry does not always equal the best light return. The Brilliancescope and ISee-2 shine light onto a diamond and give digital pixel counts. Both give a good indication of diamond performance, but neither gives the same grade for the same diamond.
3. A virtual 3D model from a Sarin or Helium scanner can be viewed and tested with a free GemAdviser download. 3D methods give new R&D Ray Trace Cut info and virtual ideal-scope images.
Diamond Calculator
Related Threads and Articles: Laboratory Cut Grades: What the report doesnt show What are the minimum "Cs", for my diamond purchase? Best light return? Excellent symmetry or ideal cut? How important are HCA factor grades in assessing diamonds? Which C do I need? Cut, Clarity, Carat, or Color?... HELP!!! 4 Cs: Which is most important to you? what is a sarin report used for and how to measure light return
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The Centenary Diamond 273.85 carats - D Color, Flawless Clarity De Beers Group
Anatomy of a Round Brilliant Diamond Grading Report What diamond to Buy? Is it Safe to buy online? Appraisal Essentials
VS1 and VS2 Very Slightly Included VS1 and VS2 diamonds have minor inclusions that are seen under 10X magnification, but inclusions typically cannot be seen without the aid of a loupe or microscope. Click for more pictures and video of VS1 and VS2 clarity diamonds.
Very Slight - VS
SI1 and SI2 Slightly Included SI1 and SI2 diamonds have inclusions that are noticeable under 10X magnification, and inclusions may be eye-visible. The degree of visibility varies with SI clarity
http://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/diamond-clarity/[10/02/2011 17.10.35]
diamonds. Click for more pictures and video of SI1 and SI2 clarity diamonds.
Slightly Included - SI
I1, I2, and I3 Included (In Europe P for Pique pronounced PeeKay) Included stones have obvious inclusions at 10X magnification, and depending on the degree, included diamonds will have obvious eye visible inclusions. In this category, durability may also be compromised by inclusions. Click for more pictures and video of I1, I2, I3 clarity diamonds.
Imperfect - I (Pique - P)
*Fun Fact - Did you know that approximately 1 in 100 people can see VS2 inclusions? If you are one of these nearsighted individuals, then you may prefer a VS1 clarity diamond...or you can always wait a decade until your ability to focus up-close drops away. ;)
Some European and other international gem labs use the term "Pique" (pronounced Peekay) for the Included grades - using the abbreviations P1, P2, and P3, rather than I1, I2, and I3. For more information from different diamond grading labs, visit EGL USA, EGL , HRD Antwerp, and IGI.
What is SI3?
EGL and EGL USA introduced an SI3 grade in 1992. Because of the big price difference between I1 and SI2, many dealers used SI3 for decades. The World Federation of Diamond Bourses wants labs to introduce SI3, and most refuse, but many have softened their SI2 grades. * Note - Ultimately diamond grading reports are just "expert opinions" under 10 power magnification. Even GIA has given different clarity grades for the same diamond. Remember, humans are grading clarity in the labs, and while they are highly skilled, there will be a certain level of subjectivity among graders.
(left) clarity grading plot of an I1 clarity diamond (right) photos courtesy of Russian Gemology Center
http://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/diamond-clarity/[10/02/2011 17.10.35]
Related Threads: Should I care about Clouds and Feathers in a VS2 Stone? Does anyone have an SI3 diamond? 1.71 I1 eye clean hmm "Eye Clean SI2" an oxymoron?
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DIAMOND COLOR
Most diamonds have a hint of yellow or brown. The rarest and most expensive are D or Icy white - on a scale that goes to Z and is yellowish (or brownish). (More color than Z is graded as a 'fancy' color). Below 1ct about half the people in my "blind Pepsi taste tests" can tell the difference between D and H colored diamonds, at I and lower, most people can see the faint tint of yellow. But diamonds over 5ct it is easier to pick G from D, and prices reflect that. Color also has more influence on prices in higher clarity grades.
SHAPE
Round Round 1.0 1.0
We grade Color by placing diamonds face down and comparing them to color master stones with special lighting
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Glassy looking cuts like Asscher and Emerald cut diamonds show more color than ideal cut rounds; brighter cuts face up more colorless; you can see their color when you look from the side. It is easier to see the color of a diamond in a white setting (platinum or white gold). If you have a yellowish diamond, then setting it in a rubbed over bezel style setting can improve the apparent color by a couple of grades. Some people just prefer warmer colors (J-L) others want to save money, get a bigger diamond or a better cut. As with all the 4C's, color is a subject of preferences which can depend on cultural, social, or national background. Some nations prefer a higher clarity and are prepared to sacrifice color for "purity". Fluorescent diamonds with a bluish tint (about 30% of diamonds) usually appear more colorless. Trivia: When GIA developed the D-Z grading system they avoided A-C because some dealers use A1 to C3 for 'in-house' grading systems. There will never be better color than D!
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Crown
The crown is the top part of the diamond that sits above the girdle. Light enters a diamond through the crown facets. The crown is composed of bezel facets (crown mains), star facets, upper girdle facets (upper halves), and a table facet.
Diamond Cut Diamond Clarity Diamond Color Anatomy of a Round Brilliant Diamond Grading Report What diamond to Buy? Is it Safe to buy online? Appraisal Essentials
Table Octagonal in shape, the table is the largest diamond facet. It sits at the top of the crown. Bezel Facet Also known as the crown mains, the bezel facets are diamond shaped and sit between the table and the girdle edge. There are 8 bezel facets on a round brilliant. Star Facet These triangular facets extend from the table to the upper girdle facets. There are 8 star facets. Upper Girdle Facets Also known as the upper halves, these triangular facets are closest to the girdle edge. There are 16 upper girdle facets.
Girdle
The girdle separates a diamonds crown and pavilion. Diamond girdles are often polished with tiny facets. Diamonds can also be found with girdles that have a frosted or slightly waxy appearance, finished but not faceted.
Pavilion
The pavilion is the bottom half of the diamond that sits below the girdle. The pavilion facets reflect incoming light that has entered through the crown facets. The pavilion is composed of lower girdle facets (lower halves), pavilion main facets, and an optional culet facet.
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Lower Girdle Facets Also known as lower halves, these triangular facets extend from the bottom of the girdle to the culet. There are 16 lower girdle facets. Pavilion Main Facets Kite or diamond shaped facets that often take on the appearance of arrows. There are 8 pavilion mains. Culet A small facet at the very bottom of a diamond. Most modern round brilliants do not have a culet. The bottom usually comes to a sharp point where the pavilion mains meet.
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Almost all diamonds sold online, and better quality larger stones sold in the stores, come with a (supposedly) independent 3rd party grading report , or 'cert'. Reports help you compare apples - but sadly there is no international standards body - different labs can give the same stone different grades. Some vendors send a diamond to 2 or 3 different labs then sell the stone with the report that makes it cost the most. However the market prices labs too, e.g. a diamond with a GIA report usually sells for more than one with the same reported grade from EGL . On-line listings show this. But if you are shopping in stores you should factor in the lower prices these 'soft report' diamonds often trade at. See Pricescope Grading Survey GIA grading reports are the most common listed on the web (about 3/4's of all listings) AGS Diamond Quality reports are popular with Pricescopers buying unseen because that lab has a better cut grade system for rounds and a few other shapes. IGI is the biggest lab by quantity. Most IGI graded stones are sold in stores. EGL is also a big lab and was a global franchise until the slightly stricter American EGL split away. HRD is a respected Belgian institution in Antwerp - a big trading center for rough and polished diamonds. HRD reports are more common in Europe and Asia. Grading reports include these features below (the bold ones are in the Quick and Easy tutorial): Cut Shape Carat weight Color Clarity Dimensions Treatments Cut grades Symmetry & Polish Girdle inscriptions Fluorescence A unique report number Plotting diagram Comments Holograms Most Labs have web based online confirmation services. You will need to enter report # and Carat weight GIA AGS IGI EGL USA EGL WORLD WIDE Some labs offer perspex sealed reports which helps stop mix-ups but limits testing and viewing options. There are hundreds of smaller and specialty labs, and independent appraisal services. Some provide useful extra information as a comfort or point of sale support in addition to a report from one of the major labs above. There are far too many to list, but here are some examples. GCAL Gemex Canadamark Some stores, like Tiffany & Co. operate their own labs, or have other labs brand their grading reports. IGI and others provide a service like this for branded cuts.
EGL-USA Diamond Certificate. GIA Diamond Grading Report (2006 -Present). Click & mouse over for a cool demo University analogy IGI and EGL are like large statewide universities. GIA is Ivy League, and AGS is like the MIT rocket-science program. A polisher or manufacturer sends each diamond (student) to the place it will get the best grade (earn more $). The good to average go to the large universities (IGI/EGL). The better ones are sent to the Ivy League (GIA / HRD) and a few nerds go to MIT (AGS). Drop outs end up in a program at a chain store or Joe's Bar & Grading Lab. This fun analogy underplays complex factors such as a cutters specialty and client base and a dealers target market.
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Carat Weight
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Size Only Cut You can live with a yellowish diamond with a few black spots! The cut should be in the 54% to 60% total depth Carat range with a thin to very thin girdle (this can still rate well on the Cut Adviser). Look for a +60% table (keep below 65%) Clarity Color Size, then Quality Your friends can't see the inclusions if you keep moving it. Slightly yellowish in daylight or office lighting. Cut as above. Cut Clarity Color Both Size and Quality Your diamond must look clean to the eye, white and sparkly. It should have a good ideal-scope image etc. Cut Clarity Color Quality Only You want to impress people with the jargon, or you want the best money can buy because the diamond is a symbol of your love. Inclusions must be hard for you to see through a microscope or a 10X loupe. The diamond must blow your friends away with its icy whiteness. It must be beautiful with a Cut Adviser rating of around 1.0 to 2.0. It probably should have a branded cut name.
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You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Diamond Guide >> Is it safe to buy diamonds online?
http://www.pricescope.com/wiki/it_safe_buy_diamonds_online[10/02/2011 17.11.54]
Is it safe to buy diamonds online? | PriceScope PA. Mr. Atlas and two other members of his staff were awarded the title of Master Gemologist Appraiser from the Accredited Gemologists Association and almost all of the lab's staff members are GIA trained graduate gemologists. The lab is known for its diamond cut grading system. The AGA 1A cut grade for round diamonds is even narrower than that allowed by AGS for its "0" cut grade, and the Accredited Gem Laboratory is, at this time, the only lab with a cut grading system for fancy shaped diamonds. Thus, the AGA cut grading charts are used as a reference tool for fancy shaped diamond proportions by much of the industry. Accredited Gem Laboratory accepts diamonds for grading by the consumers and diamond dealers. If you are looking for a round brilliant diamond, use our exclusive Holloway Cut Adviser to see how the diamonds you are considering will perform. The Cut Adviser describes how brilliant, fiery, scintillating and spread the diamonds you are considering will be. You can save a lot of money by finding a diamond that rates well on the adviser, but does not fall into the well-known, but sometimes faulty AGS 0 ideal cut standards for which a premium is charged. Independent appraisers At PriceScope we recommend that you take any diamond you purchase to an independent appraiser during the time period the vendor allows for returns. The best appraiser is an independent appraiser i.e., one who does not sell diamonds . While most jewelers are quite reputable, there are unfortunately ones who will tell you the stone you bought is problematic just because he/she wants to sell you one of his/her own diamonds. There are excellent independent appraisers who accept diamonds to evaluate before the customer has paid for them. (Of course, customers who have already paid for their diamond can also send their stones to these appraisers to be evaluated before the return date.) Just ask the vendor you are working with if they will agree to these terms. The customer does have to pay the appraiser fee (by carat weight-the fee should never be based on the price of the diamond), but you need an appraisal for insurance purposes anyway. The independent appraisers will make sure that the diamond matches the independent grading lab's grading report, check for structural problems with the stone, determine if the price was appropriate for the market in which it was bought, evaluate the diamond's beauty based on expertise and the use of special equipment, etc. Click here for the list of independent appraisers. Summary Buying a diamond over the Internet can be a very pleasant experience. While there is great value in having a local jeweler whom you trust for setting your diamond, cleanings, maintenance, repairs, etc., the greatest variety of well-cut diamonds at the best prices can be found on the Internet. Feedback PriceScope is produced by consumers for consumers with the advice of industry experts. We rely upon consumer feedback and would appreciate if you would take a minute to tell us about your internet diamond buying experience so we can bring dependable information to other consumers. Please submit your feedback here. Thank you.
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Tolkowsky Ideal Cut Crown and Pavilion Holloway Cut Adviser AGS Ideal Cut Firescope & Ideal-Scope Hearts and Arrows Diamonds Table Size Fish-eye 60:60 Spread Diamond Girdle Thickness Diamond Culet Diamond Symmetry Diamond Polish Diamond Fluorescence Proportion Scanners Brilliance, Fire and Scintillation Pricing & Lab's Diamond Glare Treatments & Synthetics Investment
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You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Crown and Pavilion Angles
The overlain profiles show how similar the light paths are, even though the angles vary considerably. This is common sense; but common sense is not common. Many labs use grading systems with minimum & maximum crown and pavilion angles that penalizes cutters who produce BIC's and FIC's. The American Gem Society Lab was first to adopt this 'inverse proportion' approach. GIA is likely to follow soon. If you know a diamonds proportions, you can use HCA to check if it can be ideal.
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Discuss on the Forum Holloway Cut Adviser
Tolkowsky Ideal Cut Crown and Pavilion Holloway Cut Adviser AGS Ideal Cut Firescope & Ideal-Scope Hearts and Arrows Diamonds Table Size Fish-eye 60:60 Spread Diamond Girdle Thickness Diamond Culet Diamond Symmetry Diamond Polish Diamond Fluorescence Proportion Scanners Brilliance, Fire and Scintillation Pricing & Lab's Diamond Glare Treatments & Synthetics Investment
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Forum You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Holloway Cut Adviser
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HCA is only for round diamonds with known Table, Crown, Pavilion and Total Depth inputs; it has no idea about the diamonds symmetry, poor minor facet proportions or various cutters tricks. Use it to reject known poor performers and narrow down your selection. Please do not use it for final selection; it will not replace an analysis with an Ideal-scope and/or an independent appraisal. Stones listed here are ranked by HCA scores, and many have ideal-scope photo's and other cool stuff. GIA's new system is similar to HCA but with symmetry, polish and minor facet data, but the data on GIA reports has been severely rounded. In order of importance: Pavilion 0.2, Crown 0,5 lower girdle depth 5%. Steeper crown and deeper pavilion GIA graded 'Excellent' diamonds have a dark ring in the table area and will show the dirt on the pavilion. Diamonds that rate below 2 (red on the chart) are unlikely to show too much leakage darkness, overly thin or thick girdles, or fish-eyes. But there are other negatives that HCA can't predict. Additionally, if you examine diamonds from closer up than 10 inches (25cm) in your selection process, you will probably prefer diamonds with proportions that fall in the Young Peoples Rings area that is marked on the chart below in the upper right of the red zone. Figure. This chart indicates some diamond proportions and information that you may find useful.
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Shallow stones (lower left on the chart) look darker if you have excellent close up vision because your head obstructs more light sources which makes a shallow diamond appear darker. But shallow diamonds have a bigger spread, and are great for pendants and earrings, where normal social viewing distances apply. Stones near the center of the red region (the lowest scores) are least affected by symmetry variations. Alternatively hearts and arrows diamonds, which have excellent optical symmetry, but often HCA scores around 2, may out-perform diamonds with lesser symmetry and lower HCA scores. Deeper stones in the upper green and blue zones have more leakage and often appear dark just inside the table and the outer girdle edges; they are best set in open backed rings so light can get in the bottom or pavilion. But small 'vee' shaped leakage zones near the outer edges of a diamond, as seen with an Ideal-Scope, can add to a diamonds contrast and brilliance. Trivia HCA caused a bit of a stir when we first offered it free on Pricescope in 2001; like any new concept that affects diamond sales, HCA was not liked by many vendors. GIA spent millions on cut research, Octonus and Moscow State University used their brains, and AGS did a seat of the pants study like HCA. All support the inverse Crown and Pavilion theory.
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HCA is fine-tuned from time to time - results may change without notice. Remember - only use HCA to reject diamonds & narrow down your selection. A full technical description of HCA can be found at www.diamond-cut.com.au
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Diamonds are rated for each of these criteria and the lowest score sets the final grade. 1. Light Performance: Brightness, Fire (dispersion), Leakage and Contrast 2. Proportion Factors: Girdle thickness , Culet size, Weight or Spread, Durability (no crown angles below 30) and Tilt (fish-eye) 3. Finish: Symmetry and Polish 1. Light Performance Brightness: A high Light Return is required from a 3D scan of each diamond imported into the AGS version of DiamCalc.
Diamond Cut Diamond Clarity Diamond Color Anatomy of a Round Brilliant Diamond Grading Report What diamond to Buy? Is it Safe to buy online? Appraisal Essentials
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Fire (Dispersion): AGS have designed their own Fire software that produces images like the one below. One day AGS might print Fire and ASET images (like the one in the DiamCalc simulation above) on certificates.
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Leakage: AGS used a leakage calculation based on the older version of DiamCalc. Contrast: We expect Contrast will be similar to DiamCalc. AGSs new software does not work for all stones, so they will also use human grading based on ASET images. 2. Proportion Factors
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Girdle thickness: Girdle thickness of all shapes of diamonds will now be measured at facet junctions*, where the girdle is about 1.7% thicker than the scalloped valleys (where they were measured previously). AGS grades will be based on the percentages below.
AGS Grade 3 1 0 0 0 3 5 7 8 9 10 Description Ex Thin Very thin Thin Medium Slightly Thick Thick Very Thick Extremely Thick Extremely Thick Extremely Thick Extremely Thick Examples: 3 0 5 Ex Thin-Med Thin-Slt Thick Med-Very Thick 03.3% 2.74.1% 3.56.3% Girdle thickness for all shapes 0 at any spot 1.82.19% 2.22.99% 3.03.99% 4.04.99% 5.05.99% 6.06.99% 7.07.99% 8.08.99% 9.09.99% > 10%
Culet size: AGS 0 - None to Medium, Slightly large 2, Large 5, Very Large - 9. Spread: For rounds the DiamCalc factor should must be within + or -5% about 6.35 to 6.6mm for a 1.00ct stone. Princess spread factors should not be worse than -25, or about 5.3mm square. Durability: No crown angles below 30 (rounds and princess) Tilt (fish-eye): This is the amount of tilt to when you can see the girdle of a stone, from the face up position. The Fish-eye calculation on DiamCalc must be higher than 6. 3. Finish: Symmetry and Polish
AGS Finish Grades Ideal Excellent Very Good Good Fair Poor 0 1 2 3, 4 5, 6, 7 8, 9, 10
AGS 0 Princess Cuts AGS have a complex manufacturers guideline charts that show approximate table size and precise angles for pavilion 1, pavilion 2, crown 1, and crown 2 (which unfortunately are not given by Sarin and Ogi scanners).
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Forum You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Firescope
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FIRESCOPE
In 1984 I got my Firescope which was based on Mr. Okuda from Japan's 1970's invention. I designed the Ideal-Scope as a portable version for my businesses diamond buying. The 10x lens has a 'hot pink' reflector in front of the diamond so you can judge how much of the red / pink light refracts back from the diamond. The redder the diamond the more light is returned. White areas in a diamond show light transmitted from behind the diamond; this is called leakage - the enemy! The blackness of the lens mimics an observer's head which blocks out some light sources. The most brilliant diamonds look bright pink/red with a black star and minimal white or pale areas. Most ideal cuts have small 'V' shaped white leakage features at the girdle . This is not bad. Diamonds with perfect symmetry and good proportions show a black eight-pointed star. Hearts and Arrows (and H&A's viewers) was a by-product of Mr. Okuda's discovery. Around 80% of round diamonds would be rejected with an Ideal-Scope by anyone after just a few minutes practice. It was also instrumental in the development of HCA. Scientists from Moscow Stat Uni. have computerized the Ideal-Scope; DiamCalc and free Gem Adviser ray tracing program lets you see virtual ideal-scope images of 3D scanned diamonds. More on Ideal-Scope Reference Charts
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You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Hearts and Arrows Diamonds
G G VS2 VS2
Carat Weight Diamond Cut Diamond Clarity Diamond Color Anatomy of a Round Brilliant Diamond Grading Report What diamond to Buy? Is it Safe to buy online? Appraisal Essentials
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Forum You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Table Size
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TABLE SIZE
Table width is quoted in percent (width divided by the average stone diameter). Table size is less critical to the beauty of a diamond than variations in than crown and especially pavilion angle . AGS and GIA's new systems each have top grades that include 61% table sizes (AGS will go down to 47%). Yields from most rough diamonds are improved by polishing larger table sizes than we might prefer. Small variances in crown and pavilion angles cause less problems if table sizes are in the range of 55% to 58%. Larger table diamonds have a better "spread" and can be brighter, i.e. they return more light, but are often less firey than diamonds with smaller tables. They often have less scintillation. Larger table sizes are considered to be an advantage in smaller diamonds below .10ct. The ability of a diamond to break light into rainbow colors, called fire or dispersion, is enhanced by light entering or leaving a diamond at an acute angle; a larger table size means a smaller crown facet area, the part that creates most dispersion. The same principle applies to cut crystal wine glasses and chandeliers. Visualize the Pink Floyd "Dark Side of the Moon" CD cover. Technically, dispersion is maximized as light approaches the critical angle between the diamond to air interface. The resultant burst of color emerges close to parallel to the surface of the diamond. So if you look from the front of a diamond you are more likely to observe fire from a crown facet which is greater in size when the table is smaller. Scintillation is the other casualty of a large table; your line of sight is "bent" more by crown facets, so you look more deeply into the diamond and there may appear to more flashing sparkles you observe as you roll a diamond with a small table. Old cut diamonds often have very small tables (and steeper crown angles) and sometimes you can see the culet in the crown facets 4, or even 8 times, from a face up view. You can see on the images here that the smaller table diamonds appear to have more facets than the larger table images. If a diamond had no crown facets it would appear boring. Table sizes over 60% are more affordable and because there is less crown height, they have a larger spread or diameter. You get a bigger looking rock for less cash. We suggest an upper limit of 63%. You will see that Ideal-Scope images of larger table diamonds often look a little paler just inside the table; but what appears to be 50% pink intensity will actually return 75% or more light. As table sizes get larger, beware of the fish-eye effect. Discuss on the Forum Fish-eye Table 63% Table 53%
G G VS2 VS2
Table 58%
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Forum You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Fish-Eye Effect
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FISH-EYE EFFECT
A fish-eye is a nasty appearance that you can see just inside the table of a diamond. It looks slightly crazed and dull, just like a dead fishes eye. The fish-eye is a reflection of the girdle (on the opposite side). If the girdle is not polished and is thick the effect looks like a BIG circular inclusion, and can be as bad as an I3 (P3). Fish-eyes are more apparent if the pavilion is shallow 39.5, the table is large; the girdle is thick and not polished. Combinations of these factors worsen the effect. Holloway Cut Adviser takes fish-eye into account. Fish-eyes occur between the following pavilion depths and table sizes: 41 degree pavilion and 72.2% table 39 degree pavilion and 58.4% table Diamonds with these proportions show fish-eyes that require no tilt to see them. If the table gets 1% bigger you see a 1% more fish-eye. We down grade fish-eyes in value, a bit like an inclusion, because that is what they look like. HCA will give "do not buy this diamond under any circumstances as it is a fish-eye" comment if the fish-eye is very bad. A small amount of tilt to see a fish-eye is acceptable because these diamonds have a very good spread and look very big for the money. If the fish-eye can only be seen with 5 degrees or more tilt then we consider the diamond to be ideal.
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COLOR CLARITY
G G VS2 VS2
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Forum You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Diamond Cut: 60/60
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The pavilion angles on these two stones are 36 degrees and 45 degrees. This range actually exists. Of all of the diamonds within this range of pavilion angles, only those between 40.2 and 41.2 degrees are likely to be worthy of consideration. Girdle thickness is another variable a very thin girdled stone can end up with too steep / deep in crown and pavilion angles and the opposite can be true if the girdle is too thick. GIA is the largest most prolific lab and there are 40 crown and pavilion angle combinations for 60% table sized diamonds that receive its top cut grade of Excellent (although Pricescope addicts would only recommend about 20 of these). AGS list 26 angle combinations that potentially should achieve AGS 0 or Ideal (compared with 32 for a 56% table size). These virtual diamond images were simulated using DiamCalc for the diamonds with 60:60 table:depth ratio and thin girdle but different pavilion angles.
G G VS2 VS2
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Forum You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Diamond Spread
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DIAMOND SPREAD
Spread is very important to you, but hardly ever talked about by technicians working away in labs. You want the diamond you are buying to look big. The diamond on the left of the photograph sounds big but looks smaller than the one on the right. Both measure 6.2 mm in diameter and could have been cut from the rough diamond in the centre. Note the lifeless one is 4.4 mm deep (70%) while the ideal cut is just 3.65mm (59%).
SHAPE
Round Round 1.0 1.0
How do you know if the diamond you are considering has a good spread? If you divide the depth by the diameter and multiply by 100 you can calculate the depth percentage . This should be between 56% and 65%. If the table is small the depth will can be larger, and vice a versa. The smaller the depth percentage, the larger the spread. Other factors that effect spread are the girdle thickness and crown and pavilion angles. Holloway Cut Adviser rates a diamonds spread.
G G VS2 VS2
This stone has table and depth proportions of 60:60. Normally you would expect a 6.5mm spread for a 1.00ct stone. This one spreads 8% less at 6.3mm because it has a thick girdle . Discuss on the Forum Girdle Thickness
Uper 1/2 carat has the same spread as lower lifeless 2/3 carat
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Forum You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Girdle Thickness!
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GIRDLE THICKNESS!
The girdle is the edge of the diamond and is quoted in either words (Thin, Thick etc) or as a percentage of the diameter (e.g. thin = .6% or thick = 3.0%). Bruting is the rounding process of grinding two diamonds against each other on a lathe that results in a ground glass like finish. Today larger diamonds mostly have faceted girdles (nearly 100 tiny facets), or they may be polished shiny all the way around. A bruted girdle does not lower a diamonds grade, and only looks worse if the stone is a 'fish-eye'. The best girdle thickness is Thin, Medium or Slightly Thick. There is almost always some variation in girdle thickness around a stone; Thin to Slightly Thick etc. Sometimes there up to four small thinner areas that may include remnants of the original (squarish octahedral) rough diamond crystal. The remnants are not a concern if they are confined to the upper part of the pavilion facets. They may be described on a certificate as naturals and marked in green on the report plot. If the girdle has Extremely Thin or Very Thin areas it is best not set them in exposed areas in rings; thin parts can be cleaved or chipped by a blow. These stones are OK in pendants and earrings, but there is still a very slight risk of a girdle chipping during setting. Diamonds with Thick, Very Thick, or Extremely Thick girdles weigh considerably more, so the spread of a diamond is reduced. But thicker girdles have little impact on a diamond's sparkle. Be wary when selecting diamonds that have pointy ends with Extremely, Very Thin, or even Thin parts on the points because there is a high risk of damage during prong setting. The example in the photo shows a dangerously thin point on a Princess cut. In USA girdle thickness of rounded diamonds were always measured at the thinnest part or 'valley'. In Europe the girdle is measured at the main or bezel facet junction, which is normally 1.6 or 1.7% thicker than the valley. The new AGS system now measures girdle thickness at the thick part. Warped diamonds. Mr. Fred Cuellar wrote a diamond buying guide and has advised consumers not to buy diamonds if the crown , girdle and pavilion percentages do not add up to the same as the total depth percentage ; he calls these "warped diamonds". Therefore most US graded diamonds are warped by 1.6 or 1.7%. Hopefully GIA will also change and then there will be no more warped diamonds. e.g. 15% crown height, 1% Medium girdle and 43% pavilion depth should have a 60.7% total depth, not 59%. The girdle measurement at the thickest part would be 2.7%. 15 + 2.7 + 43 = 60.7%
Abbreviations ETN, ETH, XTN, EXN VTN, VT, VETN T, TN, TH M, ME, MD, MED STK, ST, SLTK, SLTH T, TK, TH VTK, VTH ET, EXTK, XT, XTK F, FA, FAC S, SM P, PO Girdle Extremely Thin Very Thin Thin Medium Slightly Thick Thick Very Thick Extremely Thick Faceted Smooth Polished
G G VS2 VS2
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Forum You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Culet
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CULET
The point on the bottom of a diamond's pavilion is called a culet (pronounced que-let or the French sounding que-lay). During the manufacturing process, the culet is often polished as a flat facet so that it does not get chipped as the other facets are polished. These days the cutter usually closes this facet to a point, but sometimes it remains as a small extra facet; this is not so bad because it protects the culet from chipping as the diamond is handled and while the jeweler is setting the stone. In fact the AGS originally down graded a diamond if the culet was closed, but changed this policy because of demand from Asia for diamonds with closed culets. In some cultures an open culet is said to allow evil spirits to get into the diamond (no kidding!).
G G VS2 VS2
Sometimes you read that a round brilliant cut has 57 facets, and sometimes 58; the 58th facet is the culet. A diamond behaves as a window if opposing facets are parallel, and this is exactly what happens if the culet is too big, because the culet is parallel to the table. The result is that you can see right out the hole the culet appears to make in the center bottom of the diamond. If you have ever seen a large old cut diamond you probably know what we mean. The culet size is listed on a cert and your diamond's culet should be pointed (no culet), very small, small or medium because these are not visible to the naked eye. Large to extremely large culets may be visible to the naked eye and can look like an inclusion.
CLARITY
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Forum You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Diamond Symmetry
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DIAMOND SYMMETRY
Most labs grade Symmetry as Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair or Poor on a GIA report. The basis of lab grading includes microscopic examination to ensure that facets meet perfectly; this can result in very different results to the optical symmetry that we have discussed in this tutorial. During the GIAs 70,000 observation study, diamonds with Good symmetry, but proportions that would have qualified them for the top category, were generally not preferred by both trade & consumers survey participants. That is why GIA have decided to allow diamonds to be in a cut grade above its Symmetry or Polish. However AGS insist that diamonds that receive its top cut grade, AGS 0, have Ideal Symmetry (Ideal which is meant to be a level above GIA Excellent). When polishing a rough diamond the aim is to cut the heaviest, most valuable diamond possible. This often means polishing a diamond with imperfect symmetry to avoid inclusions or just to achieve a "magic weight" (like 1.00ct). The polished diamond may be slightly off round, have variations in girdle thickness , tilting of the table, and off centering the table or the culet etc. Contrary to popular belief, symmetry defects in a diamond are often the result of a highly skilled cutter, rather than an indication of poor skills. The diamond images we have used in this tutorial are mostly symmetrical. But in the real world very few diamonds are perfectly symmetrical, but symmetry is less important to the overall beauty of a diamond than the critical facet proportions. You may never notice any difference between diamonds with Ideal, Excellent Very Good or even some Good symmetry diamonds.
Price difference for Round diamonds 1-1.49ct, F-H, VS1-SI2, GIA and AGS 58%-63% Depth , 53%-58% Table
Diamond with AGS ideal symmetry Data for April, 2004
G G VS2 VS2
Polish & Symmetry Ex/Ex or Id/Id Ex/VG or Id/VG VG/VG VG/G G/G
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The Ideal-Scope reference chart is an effective way to judge symmetry because the patterns we observe with it display "optical" symmetry. Another category of high symmetry diamonds is Hearts and Arrows.
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Forum You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Polish!
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POLISH!
Polish is graded the same way as symmetry: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair or Poor on a GIA report. AGS add their Ideal Polish to the above list. Just as hardwood takes a better polish than softer timbers, diamonds hardness makes it the absolute leader in luster. Poorly polished facets may reduce the intensity of light reflected from, or refracted into and out of a diamond. Labs assess polish by examining the diamond, facet by facet, with reflected and a microscope; you or I may not see any difference. But there is a price difference as was shown in the chart on the Symmetry page. The visual effect of Good or lower Polish is that you might feel a need to clean the stone. During the GIA observation testing, it was found that observers were less inclined to prefer diamonds with Good and lesser Polish. Previously the market has read more into Polish (and symmetry) simply because it was part of the only cut grade info on GIA reports. A common polish defect is surface grain lines. Even the most skilled cutter can encounter variations in hardness or grain, just like in timber, as they polish a facet. The result is a polish line or lines (usually microscopic) running across a facet. These grain lines are very common in pink fancy colored diamonds and sometimes they can be seen with your naked eye in reflected light. If you choose a diamond with an SI or VS inclusions, a few microscopic polish lines may be of no relevance. But if you were considering buying a Flawless diamond, then Ideal or Excellent Polish could be a consideration. If the polish is rated as Fair or Poor, visual performance may be noticeably reduced. Polishing lines. From 3D Diamond Course. Courtesy of OctoNus.
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You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Diamond Fluorescence
DIAMOND FLUORESCENCE
Is Diamond Fluorescence Bad?
Some retailers will tell you that fluorescence is bad...is a negative, but many consumers actually prefer diamonds with fluorescence! The truth is that fluorescence rarely affects a diamond's sparkle and brilliance , and in warmer or lower colored diamonds, fluorescence makes them look whiter or more colorless. Diamonds with fluorescence should be graded case by case. You may not even notice fluorescence in your diamonds, unless you are at a nightclub with black lights...Have fun and enjoy the blue glow! About a third of diamonds exhibit fluorescence, like the fluorescent minerals you have seen in natural history museums or the novelty shop toys under the black (UV) light. The effect is like a white shirt in a discotheque. Fluorescence can be faint to very strong, and the most common fluorescent color is blue. As blue is the complimentary color to yellow, the most common tinted color in diamonds, blue fluorescence can make yellowish diamonds look white or colorless.
G G VS2 VS2
1.34ct I VS1 graded Very Strong Blue Fluorescence by GIA Photo of loose diamond on left by Whiteflash Posted by TotalNewbie
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Search for diamonds with fluorescence by clicking below and see how many diamonds are fluorescent:
Very Strong Diamond Fluorescence Strong Diamond Fluorescence Medium Diamond Fluorescence Faint Diamond Fluorescence
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When you are considering stones with Very Strong or Extremely Strong Fluorescence, it is wise to compare them side by side with non-fluorescent diamonds in shaded daylight, which has a lot of ultraviolet light. You can also use a UV filter like a small sheet of Lexan.
Kite Shape Yellow Diamond with Strong Yellow Fluorescence Posted by davi_el_mejor
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Diamond Phosphorescence
When the UV light is turned off, fluorescence ceases instantly, but some rare stones will phosphoresce after exposure. The Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond and The Hope Diamond show intense orange-red phosphorescence. The Hope and The Wittelsbach-Graff both phosphoresce after exposure to shortwave uv light, but they do not exhibit fluorescence during exposure to shortwave or longwave uv light. This unique property adds mystery to these incredible and historical diamonds.
The 31.06ct Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond and The 45.52ct Hope Diamond Photo by Chip Clark, Smithsonian Physorg.com
People will often choose a fluorescent diamond over a non-fluorescent stone, and many diamond experts actually seek them for this interesting property. An additional bonus is that they may cost less. In essence, Diamond Fluorescence is generally not an issue. Rather, it is a cool effect and a fun feature, so enjoy!
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PROPORTION SCANNERS
The Sarin digital scanner measures diamond proportions 10 times faster and more accurately than previous methods. Quick and accurate proportion measurement made it feasible for labs like the American Gem Society to offer cut grading services. GIA uses scanners to measure the table size and dimensions of diamonds, but it also collects all the angles etc which it uses to "finger print" diamonds for its own internal purposes to screen for resubmitted diamonds; e.g. dealers hoping for a better grade. GIA has also identified resubmitted treated HPHT diamonds using its Sarin Horizon program. Ogi makes similar at a lower price, but all labs currently use Sarin. To use HCA we would prefer Sarin too; Ogi use a different less accurate method to calculate the critical pavilion angle . Sarin (and Ogi) now also measure minor facets, and can create 3D models, but with less accuracy than OctoNus' new scanner Helium. Their next generation scanner measures facet angles with much greater accuracy but also measure the azimuth or direction that each facet faces (i.e. do opposite facets exactly face each other?) which is very important for 3D models. AGS and GIA need more accurate 3D models for their new cut grading systems, so it is very likely they will begin using Helium scanners.
SHAPE CARAT COLOR CLARITY
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You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Brilliance, Fire and Scintillation
SHAPE CARAT
A moving chess board appears 'brighter' than a sheet of white paper that has only half the light return
COLOR CLARITY
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You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Diamond Grading Labs and Pricing
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Rounds
Ex/Ex Pol/Sym 59% - 63% Depth 53% - 58% Table
All Rounds
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Merchants send stones to AGS that they believe will get a cut grade AGS 0 or 1 (on a scale of 0 to 10). Stones with lower AGS grades are rare. But diamonds with other certs can also score very high on HCA and not all AGS 0s score excellent or very good. Merchants may have volume deals with one or two labs; they may never send stones to AGS. It is common to have an AGS cut grade supplied by the dealer on better cut diamonds certified by other labs. This is commonly in the form of a 2 x 1 inch label stuck onto the paper the diamond is stored in. The diamond has not been sighted by AGSLab, the stone has been Sarin or Ogi scanned by the vendor. The information is usually accurate. EGL invented the SI3 grade which brings them extra grading business for better I1s and stones the dealers think might be border line SI2 / I1s. With a close look you can usually spot inclusions. EGL-USA has a legal trademark battle raging with EGL, who operate mainly in Israel and Belgium. EGL has a reputation for softer grading while the US / Canadian owners have tightened up (which is reflected in the pricing comparison). EGL-USA certs are clearly labeled as such, but on internet data bases it is difficult to tell which is which without viewing a copy of the actual scanned cert (not a dummy web form). HRD is the Belgian equivalent of GIA. HRD certified diamonds are more common in Europe and the East. Populations of HRD and IGI graded diamonds on the internet are too small to make a price comparison, but in the trade round diamonds they have graded may be similar to GIA and EGL-USA respectively. The AGA lab is a small regional east coast respected firm. They specialize in fancy shape diamond cut grading. Discuss on the Forum Treatments & Synthetics
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You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Glare or Reflected Light
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You Are Here : Home >> Knowledge >> Advanced Tutorial >> Treatments and Synthetics
Natural colorless diamonds are far more expensive to make. A high tech MIT company, Apollo, was developing diamonds for computer chips and made a few stones with a vapor deposition method. Apollo and Gemesis both received great venture capitol fund raising publicity with this sensationalized but inaccurate Wired article. Apollo diamonds are too thin, and they are brown to grey. After production Apollo diamonds they need expensive HPHT processing to remove the color. Unfortunately, journalists often present sensational materials without consulting true experts. Synthetics diamonds are not difficult to detect; gemologists have been doing such things since synthetic ruby and sapphire were first produced in 1892. For example in 1999 Lazar Kaplan and GE announced their new HPHT process that removed strong brown coloration from natural diamonds. They claimed the bleached diamonds were indistinguishable from Mother Nature's and since gemologists would not be able to detect the process, they decided not to inform buyers the gems were treated ! Within 3 months routine detection tests were developed that all major labs now use for all graded diamonds. Please don't get me wrong; there is a place for synthetic gems. Chain stores have developed a thriving ethical business in imitation, synthetic and treated gems. When Cubic Zirconia's (CZ) first burst onto the market in the 1970's the media pronounced death of the "hated" De Beers and the diamond industry, but woe betide any man who proposes marital union (or any other type) with a fake! Those who do not like the economic symbolism of diamonds may prefer a man made (or is that "human" made?) diamond. Some people feel synthetic diamonds are a solution to the conflict diamond trade in West Africa and child labor in India. I disagree, but then I am against rich nation trade barriers because they hurt poor countries. Diamonds play a vital employment, revenue and development role in Africa, and they provide nearly 1 million well (relatively) paid jobs in India. Rich nation tariffs on cotton and sugar cause far greater suffering. Canada (in my opinion) should stop marketing its diamonds as "non-conflict" and divert their efforts into helping African nations market "development diamonds". New Kimberley Process import/export laws are making diamond smuggling increasingly costly. Diamonds are smuggled to avoid mining and export taxes, but if we, as consumers, demanded to be sold tax paid diamonds mined and polished in poor nations, our dollars will stop illicit diamond trading and benefit the poor. Discuss on the Forum Investment
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You Are Here : The Internets #1 trusted diamond & jewelry resource, with over 350,000 diamonds to search and compare.
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Forum You Are Here : Home >> Pricescope Diamond and Jewelry Guide
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Read our extensive diamond guide to learn more about cuts, quality, price. Carat Weight Diamond Cut Diamond Clarity Diamond Color Anatomy of a Round Brilliant Diamond Diamond Grading Report
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DIAMOND APPRAISERS: Why you need one and what to expect. | PriceScope of value' with your appraiser before you start. The correct answer to the wrong question won't do you much good after all. "SALE" prices. When was the last time you went to the shopping mall and saw big signs that said "SALE"? Did you really believe the signs? Do you sometimes wonder if anything ever gets sold for the full retail price? Are you being fooled by phony sale signs or is it really a special priced event? The same reasonable approach needs to be made with jewelry on "sale" and that is presented with an appraisal that is far higher than what you are being asked to pay. You might be getting a great price, even a special one, but just because you are told this, does not mean it is true. A little doubt can be a very valuable bit of knowledge. Many times the price tag on something is not a true indicator of what it generally sells for. It may be some multiple of the correct selling price or just a guide for a commissioned sales person who wants to get the most they can before getting to the bottom line and best figure. You have to be the judge and you have to have the right knowledge. Shopping and learning are keys to getting the right stone and the right price. If in doubt, consider hiring the services of an independent. Evaluation Choosing a diamond to buy online is quite tricky. Many consumers ask an appraiser for an opinion about a diamond they are considering for purchase; a diamond they cannot see. An independent appraiser can often say a lot about stones with GIA, AGS or comparable documentation but they can't give you the full story without a thorough inspection. Many have special tools, techniques and experience that allow them to tell you far more about your stone than what is included on the lab report. The truth is, a professional appraiser generally won't give any opinion on a diamond that has not be physically examined, in person because there are so many paths that lead to an incomplete or misleading conclusion. There's been quite a bit of effort since 2005 to define the various ranges of fine and ideal cut stones. Most major labs now assign a cut grade to round brilliant cut stones and a few, like AGS and AGA include a grade on some other cuts as well. Research in this area continues at a rapid pace and an appraiser can help you apply the various grading scales to your particular stone. Services and Fees Qualified appraisers charge fees related to the degree of difficulty, the time involved, and possibly the weight of the major stone or stones. Appraisers need to cover their liability by charging higher fees for work where more liability exists. Larger gems generally require longer examination than tiny ones. Discerning the finest colors takes more time than deciding a stone is M or N color, where few folks care either way and prices are closely related anyway. The detailed kind of person seeking out the finest cut stones almost always has a raft of questions that take time to answer properly. The fees for this will vary from city to city and the most experienced appraisers generally charge more than those who are new to the business. They should be happy to tell you up front what services you can expect and what you will be expected to pay. Appraisers often work on behalf of retail stores, auction houses, diamond dealers and consumers. An honest, unbiased opinion has value to everyone in the chain of every sale. Those involved in legitimately selling diamonds and jewelry today are committed to giving all the facts to their customers. Sometimes a seller will ship a stone to an independent appraiser for examination at the request of a consumer. The appraiser makes a verification of the identity of the stone and the accuracy of the grading, adds in the value side of the report, contacts the consumer, and if all's well, forward the stone to the consumer, back to the dealer or on to a 3rd party to be mounted. Many independent appraisers offer additional services and tests to answer questions that aren't included on the lab report and that can be very useful as shopping tools. Sellers can send diamonds to many independent appraises in confidence because many have long standing quality reputations which in this very traditional business serves to put diamond dealers at ease. Dealers must rely that appraisers know how to act within the framework and traditions of the diamond trade. Sometimes consumers can get a stone examined BEFORE they have to pay for it. In the end, everyone can be protected at a nominal cost. For anyone interested, there is an appraisers listing right on Pricescope where many publish what they charge and what they can do for you. A professional appraiser's loyalty always extends to the end user of their reports. They strive for full disclosure and accuracy in grading. Unfortunately, not every appraiser or gem lab is identically qualified or knowledgeable. That's something a consumer must assess for themselves. People do report on how they have been treated within the Pricescope forums, so looking there for feedback is not a bad idea. Again, just because something is in a signed document, does not make it so. There is abuse at every level of business and you need to become aware of it. One last thing of importance. The AGA Cut Class system primarily is based on Dave Atlas' many years of experience in looking at diamonds. It is not a scientific approach such as Garry Holloway's, or the one offered on a few shapes by AGS but we believe these systems have been shown to be reasonably compatible. All appraisers look forward to the advancements coming in grading light behavior and the components of diamond beauty. No doubt, some labs will be ahead of others. Some traditionalists will hesitate longer. Modern consumers will be left to pick and choose who can give them the best total package of advice. Credentials Appraisal training is available from several different schools and each appraiser will have a different background. Some will come from retail environments, some will have been manufacturers and others will have a background in the auction or one of the related industries. In addition to the basic gemological credentials, many will have one or more credentials from the following: National Association of Jewelry American Society of Appraisers American Gem Society International Society of Appraisers Summary Appraising is an important part of the jewelry business. It can be useful as a shopping aid as well as for getting the most value out of your insurance policy. Like other professional services, it's necessary to shop carefully for your appraiser and to make certain that both you and they understand what is expected. They are not all the same. Appraise the appraiser.
David S. Atlas GG(GIA) ASG(AGA) Sr. Mbr. NAJA datlas@datlas.com Neil Beaty GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA Neil@gemlabs.us
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DIAMOND GLOSSARY
Glossary of Diamond Related Terms
a|b|c|d|e|f|g|h|i|j|k|l|m|n|o|p|q|r|s|t|u|v|w|x|y|z|0|1|2|3|4|5|6|7|8| 9
Click one of the letters above to advance the page to terms beginning with that letter.
A
AGS American Gem Society - A professional jeweler's society founded in 1934. AGS has a laboratory which grades diamonds and offers a diamond grading report . AGS has a cut grading system for round diamonds. AGS CUT GRADING SCALE 0 Ideal, 1 Excellent, 2 Very Good, 3-4 Good, 5-7 Fair, 8-10 Poor AMERICAN GEM SOCIETY A professional jeweler's society founded in 1934. AGS has a laboratory which grades diamonds and offers a diamond grading report . AGS has a cut grading system for round diamonds. APPRAISAL A written estimate of the approximate retail replacement value of the item described. They can be used for insurance purposes and should be updated every few years. ARTISANAL MINING Small-scale non-mechanized mining that is done by individuals or small groups of miners typically working with simple hand tools
B
BEZEL FACET On a round brilliant diamond, these are eight large kite-shaped facets on the crown . Also called top main facet. BRILLIANCE Brilliance describes the reflections of white light coming from the diamond. BRILLIANT CUT DIAMOND Round diamond with 57 facets (58 if there is a culet ). Round brilliant cut diamonds are more brilliant than any of the fancy-shaped stones.
C
CARAT The standard unit of measurement of the weight of a diamond. One carat equals 1/5 of a gram or 1/142 of an ounce. 1 carat=100 points . CAVITY A type of inclusion consisting of a large or deep opening in the diamond. CLARITY The degree to which a diamond is free from blemishes / inclusions. Clarity is graded on a scale from Flawless (FL) to Imperfect. CLARITY ENHANCEMENT Any process used to improve the apparent clarity of a diamond. This may include filling fractures and cavities with glass/resin. CLEAVAGE A break in a diamond which is parallel to one of its crystallographic planes. A cleavage may be caused by inherent internal strain or by a sharp blow. The break may extend to the surface of a diamond.
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CLOUD A group of tiny, white inclusions which give a cloudy appearance. COLOR A degree for which the diamond is not colorless. http://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/diamond-color/ CONFLICT DIAMOND Diamonds that are controlled by factions, rebel groups, and other forces that use them to finance war against internationally recognized legitimate governments. CROWN The part of the diamond that is above the girdle . It consists of the table and the crown facets below it CROWN ANGLE The angle measured between the girdle plane and the bezel facets. Along with the table size, the crown angle helps determine the amount of dispersion displayed by the diamond. CROWN HEIGHT The part of the diamond that is above the girdle . CROWN HEIGHT PERCENTAGE The crown height expressed as a percentage of the average girdle diameter. CRYSTAL A type of inclusion . A crystal is a mineral deposit trapped inside the diamond. CULET The smallest (58th) facet at the bottom of a full-cut diamond. Some diamonds do not have a culet (none or pointed is how the culet of that diamond will be described). CUT The cut (make) of a diamond refers to the proportions given to the polished diamond by the diamond cutter. The cut is the most important of the 4Cs (cut, color , clarity , carat ) in determining the diamond's overall beauty.
D
DDI Diamond Development Initiative is a multi-stakeholder platform, which brings NGOs, governments, and the private sector together to address the issues of artisanal diamond miners. http://www.ddiglobal.org/ DEPTH The distance between the table and the culet as measured in millimeters. DEPTH PERCENTAGE The depth of the diamond divided by the average width. DISPERSION The fiery, rainbow colors emanating from a diamond as white light is broken-up into colors.
E
EGL European Gemological Laboratory - EGL has franchises in a number of cities around the world which grade diamonds and offer a diamond grading certificate. EYE-CLEAN In clarity -grading, eye-clean diamonds should have no inclusions that are visible through the table to the unaided eye.
F
FACET The polished planes on the surface of a diamond. FEATHER A fracture in a diamond that looks like a white feather . FIRE The rainbow colors seen in a diamond as a result of dispersion.
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FLUORESCENCE The property in many diamonds that makes them glow in an environment rich in ultraviolet light. Diamonds can fluoresce in a number of colors, but generally all but blue are to be avoided. Faint to medium fluorescence is rarely detected under ordinary lighting conditions. Strong or very strong fluorescence may make a diamond appear 'milky' or 'oily', especially in sunlight. Blue fluorescence may enhance the color of diamonds rated 'H' in color or below (I,J, etc.) by hiding their yellow tint. Diamonds rated D-F with medium+ fluorescence may sell at a discount. FRACTURE A chip or break on a diamond that is not in the direction of a cleavage plane. Irregular in shape , they usually appear step-like or as a splinter. FRACTURE FILLING A diamond enhancement process whereby a cavity in a diamond is filled with an artificial substance.
G
GIA Gemological Institute of America GIA-GTL Gemological Institute of America Gem Trade Lab. The well-respected independent laboratory which grades diamonds and includes a diamond grading report with each diamond. GIRDLE The outer edge of a diamond which forms a band around the stone. The girdle can be faceted, polished or unpolished GIRDLE THICKNESS The measurement describing the percentage of the diamond's average girdle diameter. GRADING REPORT Sometimes called a 'certificate', although labs do not 'certify' diamonds. The grading report , issued by an independent laboratory, should accurately describe the proportions, weight, color , clarity , symmetry, polish and possible fluorescence seen in the diamond being evaluated. Some labs such as GIA and AGS are felt by many experts to be more consistent and stringent in their grading than some other labs.
I
IGI International Gemological Institute. A laboratory which offers a grading report . IGI also produces written appraisals. INCLUSION A naturally-occurring imperfection in a diamond. Some examples are: feathers, crystals, needles, clouds and pinpoints .
K
KIMBERLEY PROCESS From http://www.kimberleyprocess.com/ "The Kimberley Process (KP) is a joint governments, industry and civil society initiative to stem the flow of conflict diamonds...The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) imposes extensive requirements on its members to enable them to certify shipments of rough diamonds as conflict-free. As of December 2009, the KP has 49 members, representing 75 countries, with the European Community and its Member States counting as an individual participant."
L
LASER DRILL HOLE A tiny tube created in a diamond by laser drilling , which is often done to treat diamonds. LASER DRILLING A diamond enhancement technique whereby a laser is used to drill to an inclusion which is then bleached to enhance the diamond's appearance. LENGTH-TO-WIDTH RATIO A comparison of the length and width of the girdle outline on fancy-shaped diamonds. The ratio is found by dividing the length of the diamond by the width. The width is always stated as 1. Some L to W ratios are considered to be more appealing than others, but this is a matter of personal preference. Pear 1.50 - 1.75 : 1 Marquise 1.75 - 2.25 : 1 Heart 0.98 - 1.02 : 1 Oval 1.33 - 1.66 : 1 Emerald 1.50 - 1.75 : 1 Radiant/Princess 0.95 - 1.05 : 1
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LOUPE A small magnifying lens used to examine diamonds. 10x magnification is the standard. LOWER-GIRDLE FACET The facets on the pavilion of a round brilliant just below the girdle .
M
MINE CUT DIAMOND An early form of the brilliant diamond with a squarish-shaped girdle , high crown , small table , deep pavilion , and very large culet . MOHS SCALE The 10-point scale of mineral hardness. Diamond scores 10 on Mohs Scale . The diamond is the hardest of all known natural substances.
N
NATURAL These blemishes can be found on some polished diamonds when some of the rough is left on the diamond. This is often done so the cutter can maximize weight in a diamond.
O
OLD EUROPEAN CUT DIAMOND The earliest known form of brilliant cut diamond with a very small table , heavy crown and large depth .
P
PAVILION The portion of the diamond below the girdle PAVILION ANGLE The angle measured between the girdle and the pavilion main facet . PAVILION MAIN FACET The eight facets found on the pavilion of a round brilliant diamond. Their points touch the girdle . PHOSPHORESCENCE Light emitted from a gem after a stimulating energy source has been removed. Notable examples include The Hope Diamond and The Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond, which phosphoresce intense orange-red after exposure to short wave ultraviolet light. PINPOINTS Very small inclusions in a diamond. POINTS 1/100th of a carat . For example, a 1/4 carat diamond weighs 25 points . POLISH The way the cutter finishes the facets on a diamond. Labs grade finish from poor to excellent. PROSUMER A diamond and jewelry enthusiast who volunteers their time on the forum to share their knowledge and help others.
S
SCINTILLATION Sparkle. The tiny flashes of light noticeable in a diamond when the observer moves his/her head. SHAPE There are eight common diamond shapes. They are round, marquise, pear, oval, heart, princess/radiant, emerald, and trillion. The round is the most popular (the rest are called 'fancy-shaped'). There are also other shapes created and sold by manufacturers. STAR FACET One of the eight triangular facets found on the upper crown section (next to the table ) of a brilliant-cut diamond.
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SYMMETRY Labs grade symmetry from poor to excellent, based on the diamond's proportions and the relation of one facet to another (meet-point faceting). SYNTHETIC DIAMOND A laboratory grown diamond with essentially the same chemical composition and crystal structure as a natural diamond. Synthetics should not be confused with simulants, which have different optical and physical characteristics. For more information please visit: www.pricescope.com/journal/synthetic-diamonds
T
TABLE The largest facet which sits on top of a diamond. This is where most of the light enters and exits a diamond. TABLE PERCENTAGE The width of the table divided by the average diameter.
U
UPPER-GIRDLE FACET One of the 15 facets found on the lower crown portion of the diamond (abutting the girdle ).
W
WHITE GOLD White gold is alloyed with Nickel or Palladium, Copper, and Zinc. It is not white in its natural state, and it is typically Rhodium plated.
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G G VS2 VS2
Table %
53 -58%
52 -60 %
51.5-63 %
51 -64 %
CLARITY
Crown angle
34.0-34.7
33 -35.1
32.1-35.8
31.6-36.4
Crown height %
14 -16.3%
13.5-16.8%
11.6-17.9%
11.1-18.1%
Pavilion Depth %
42.8-43.2%
42.5-43.5%
42 -44%
41.5-44.9%
The 4C's Introduction Carat Weight Diamond Cut Diamond Clarity Diamond Color Anatomy of a Round Brilliant Diamond Grading Report What diamond to Buy? Is it Safe to buy online? Appraisal Essentials
58 -62.3%
58.3-62.99%
<58.3% >63%
Excellent toGood
CUT CLASSES
Class 3A
Class 3B
Class 4B
Table %
50.5-67 %
50 -70%
49 -72 %
>72% <49%
Crown angle
30.1-37.9
29.6-39.4
29 -40.5
<29 >40.5
http://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/diamond-grading-chart-round[10/02/2011 17.18.57]
Crown height %
9.6-19.3%
8.5-20.5%
7.8-21.8%
<7.8% >21.8%
Pavilion Depth %
41 -45.5%
40.5-46%
38 -48%
<38% >48%
Total depth %
<58.3% >63%
Good -Fair
Poor
A diamond called a "Tolkowsky Cut" is only approximated by cut 1A. However, a "Tolkowsky Cut" is a very specifically calculated cut with the following parameters: Table 53.0%, Crown Angle 34.6, Crown Height 16.2%, Girdle Thickness app 1.7%, Pavilion Depth 43.1%. Many diamonds are improperly called "Tolkowsky Cut" when they are only approximating the parameters Tolkowsky formulated. Courtesy of D.S. Atlas, Accredited Gem Appraisers, AGA 1998-2004
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From Faceting Limits The pavilion and bezel slopes commonly recommended for faceting are the result of trial-and-error and human judgment. This explains why references differ in their recommendations. Trial-and-error is an effective way to solve complex problems until a better way comes along, but it usually finds only the best solution in the range of experimentation. Other good solutions may exist beyond the bad ones but are found only by accident. This has been as true in faceting as in many other scientific fields. ARTICLES
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A Study of Colored Stone and Diamond Cutting Angles Making the Grade - GIA Cut Grading China on the Rise: Exploding Economy with a Fantastic Future (Part Two) Gemstone Cutting - Step by Step China on the Rise: Exploding Economy with a Fantastic Future (Part
Has the GIAs cut grading system for round brilliant diamonds made lower cut grades redundant?
China on the Rise: Exploding Economy with a Fantastic Future (Part Two)
Mon, 10/18/2010 - 22:00 - John Pollard
One) What is "Fair Market Value?" Cleaning Diamond Rings Lead Glass Ruby - The Nightmare that Keeps on Giving Synthetic Diamonds Interview with Dorothe Gizenga, Executive Director of DDI Price-prediction of diamonds My analysis of the Alrosa-analysis New GIA and AGSL Naming Conventions For Cushion Cut Diamonds Diamond Feather Inclusions: A Durability Risk?
In the second installment of his two-part feature, John Pollard moves away from Chinas tremendous retail potential and examines the countrys diamond grading industry.
I am often asked by clients, friends and family about how gemstones are faceted. I designed this photo pictorial to illustrate to the steps of the gemstone cutting process. The gemstone I selected for this first pictorial was a 13.3ct piece of rhodolite garnet from Africa. Due to the shape of the rough, I chose an oval design for the finished gemstone. The pictures below show the gem progress from a piece of rough to a finished gemstone. Each photograph is described in depth to highlight what is occurring during the gemstone cutting process.
China on the Rise: Exploding Economy with a Fantastic Future (Part One)
Wed, 10/06/2010 - 20:57 - John Pollard
What Is An Independent Appraisal and The Benefit In Securing One The French Blue, by Richard W. Wise, G.G.
Mainland Chinas incredible growth and potential is a melodious counterpoint to the songs of worldwide woe in our industry, as John Pollard discusses in the first of a two-part report.
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Ideal Scope
The Holloway Cut Adviser (U.S. Patent 7,251,619) estimates a round diamonds appeal based on its potential Light Return, Fire , Scintillation and Spread.
Diamond Calculator
Diamond Calculator is a system of modeling cut gemstones, which enables precise calculation of the diamond weight and determination of the cut proportions. The real (photorealistic) image of a polished diamond created by the system makes it possible to determine the cut parameters that cannot be measured and to select the optimal combination of the parameters to obtain the best perception (luster, brilliance, fire) of the stone.
The Ideal-scope is based on a principle discovered by Mr Okuda in the 1970's. A 10x lens with a hot red / pink reflector in front of the diamond has a central viewing hole, which allows you to see just how much of the red / pink light refracts back from the diamond.
Gem Advisor
The GemAdviser is a free read-only software to model polished gemstones allowing anybody to 'view' and analyze the diamonds and gems created by Diamond Calculator. GemAdviser also allows to evaluate visual performance of a diamond such as Light Return and Leakage.
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This week's jewel is a lovely Umbalite garnet ring posted by arjunajane. Thanks everyone for posting your gorgeous jewelry in the Show Me the Bling forum!
G G VS2 VS2
pricescope's blog
Meyer Garnet Ring February Birthstone Amethyst Hearts Nouveau Valentine Jewelry February 4th is National Wear Red Day! Jewel of the Week - Tacori
Amethyst, the purple variety of quartz, has been valued for centuries. The ancient Greeks revered the gem as a totem of spirituality and healing, and amethysts can be found in crown jewels and religious relics around the world. Russia was once a significant source of fine amethyst until the early 20th century. Today, major sources of amethyst include Brazil, Zambia, Uruguay and Canada with additional sources in the US and Afghanistan.
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Engagement Ring Celebrity Jewelry at the 2011 SAG Awards Are You Ready for Some Super Bowl Rings?
Jewel of the Week Diamond Halo Pendant Romantic Rose Gold for Valentine's Day Oprah's Pink Diamond Giveaway Jewel of the Week Cushion Cut Engagement Ring Jewelry from the Golden Globes! GCAL Express Opens in
Jewelry designers are bringing sophistication and style to a sweet shape. An organic shaped heart in textured gold is a new everyday classic. Heart shaped diamonds bezel set and paired with rose cuts bring fresh perspective to traditional diamond ring styles. Enjoy a new romance of the heart.
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World Diamond Tower Jewel of the Week Tsavorite Garnet Ring Old World Romance, Vintage Jewelry for your Valentine
Help fight heart disease in women by wearing red today, 02.04.2011. You can help raise awareness by wearing red clothing and red colored gemstones! To learn more about National Wear Red Day visit: American Heart Association. Get inspired by the red gems below posted by Pricescopers. Wear your red today!
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This week's jewel is a classic Tacori engagement ring posted by emeraldlover1. Thanks everyone for posting your gorgeous jewelry in the Show Me the Bling forum!
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Standout earrings stole the show at the 2011 SAG Awards. Actresses kept it simple with clean necklines offset by diamond and gemstone drop earrings or classic studs. Wondering what to wear to a big event? A gorgeous gown paired with fabulous earrings will do the trick.
Natalie Portman
$2 million 27.95 carat yellow diamond earrings from Tiffany & Co.
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Bring on the Big, Heavy, and Blingy Superbowl Rings! Super Bowl rings get more diamond encrusted by the year, as seen in this selection notable rings from games past. Massive and rife with symbolism, these rings often feature marquise cut diamonds, which resemble, what else? Footballs!
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This week's jewel is a stunning diamond halo pendant designed and posted by gemgirl. Thanks everyone for posting your gorgeous jewelry in the Show Me the Bling forum!
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Valentine's Day is three weeks away. Need inspiration? Whether you are looking for an engagement ring or a small gift, rose gold jewelry is perfect for Valentine's Day. Rose gold can range from pink to soft peach or red. Remember, anyone can wear rose gold. It looks great on men too!
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Lucky audience members at Oprah's Ultimate Australian Adventure received a limited edition Australian Colors "O" necklace featuring an Argyle pink diamond! Rio Tinto's Argyle mine yields the most fancy colored diamonds in the world, including brown, green, red and pink diamonds.
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You Are Here : Home >>Forum >> Diamond Prices and Grading >> Indian Ice SHAPE CARAT
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Topics Carat.com
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HPHT Diamonds?
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To all the experts: can UV spectroscopy really detect modern CVD and HPHT?
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returns to Tan?
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Couple of projects
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212 topics Page 1 of 8 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 ... 8 Topics Rock Walk Album is now Available!
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He doesn't understand
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