Nevada Adventure Guide

Matt Purdue

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ISBN 1-55650-842-5

© Matt Purdue

Maps by Kim André, © Hunter Publishing, Inc.

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Dedication
To Jordan, who has taught me to see the desert and life in ways I never dreamed
possible. Let’s get lost.

About the Author

Matt Purdue has won numerous national and regional journalism honors for his sports
and outdoor writing. In 1997 he won a National Newspaper Association award for best
sports feature. His writing and photographs have appeared in national magazines and
major newspapers, including the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Daily News, Orange
County Register and Outside, Backpacker, and Mountain Biking magazines. He
resides in both Southern Nevada and Southern California, where he can usually be
found leading a hike, a fishing expedition or a mountain bike ride.
Introduction
History
The state of Nevada rolls out the red carpet for some 29 million visitors every year.
About 27 million of them, however, come for one thing only: Las Vegas. In fact, Vegas
recently surpassed Orlando, Florida, as the top tourism destination in the US.
For anyone who loves the outdoors, that’s good news. Nevada’s booming popularity –
it’s the second most-visited state in the country behind California – makes the
backcountry relatively cheap and easy to access through gateways in Vegas and
Reno/Tahoe. While everybody else heads toward the Strip and its faux Sphinx, half-
pound hot dogs, plastic volcano and campy lounge acts, you’ll know better. Once you
get away from the surreal glow of the casino lights, the incessant plink-plink-plink of
the slot machines, the stale haze that hangs over the blackjack tables and head out
into the Great Basin, you can have the whole wild, woolly and naturally amazing state
almost to yourself.
Among the 50 states, the Silver State ranks seventh in size and 41st in population,
which means that you have just about enough room to do whatever it is you want to
do. Although Nevada has been the fastest growing state for the past 25 years, the
population density is still only nine folks per square mile, second lowest in the nation
behind Alaska. In fact, more than a few adventurous souls have called Nevada “the
poor man’s Alaska,” and for good reason. According to author John Hart, by 1825 only
two large regions of North America were unexplored: the backcountry of Alaska and
the interior of the Great Basin, which covers most of Nevada. Much of that Great
Basin hasn’t changed significantly since leather-skinned John C. Fremont and ol’ Kit
Carson himself mapped the region in the 1840s. But the Nevada encountered by the
native peoples who were sharpening spear tips near Lovelock between 7,500 and
10,000 BC was vastly different than the desert country it is today.
Nevada’s sociological history begins when the region was much wetter and more
verdant and supported a wide range of mammals. These mammoths, horses, bison,
giant sloths, mastodons and caribou fed many groups of hunting cultures as they
roamed the grasslands, pausing on the shores of huge freshwater lakes to drink.
Many prime archeological sites, like ones near Tule Springs just north of Las Vegas
and Grimes Point and Hidden Cave near Fallon, correspond to the geologic remains of
prehistoric lakes, wetlands and springs. Today many of the state’s museums display
evidence of the everyday lives of these little-known peoples: baskets, points, hand
tools, fish hooks, shells, and exquisite duck decoys woven from reeds. The rocks of
Nevada themselves also tell their mysterious stories in the form of petroglyphs
(symbols painted onto rock) and pictographs (forms etched or carved into rock) found
in abundance in areas like Valley of Fire State Park and Hickison Petroglyph
Recreation Area.
A group of people known collectively as the Lovelock Culture seems to have occupied
northern Nevada beginning about 1800 BC. Fine examples of their artifacts have
been found in Lovelock Cave. In the south, the Archaic Indians began hunting and
gathering about 2500 BC, followed by tribes known as the Basket Maker people
beginning about 300 BC. By about 500 AD, the Anasazi (which comes from the
Navajo and means “enemies of our ancestors”) were flourishing throughout the
Southwest, including southern Nevada. These peoples built permanent adobe
structures called pueblos, established trade routes, crafted fine pottery and
developed a sophisticated culture. In the 12th century, however, they mysteriously
scattered and disappeared from the landscape. Scientists cite reasons ranging from
depleted resources to disease and war for their vanishing. One of their restored
pueblos can be found 90 miles northeast of Las Vegas in Overton.
The natives who followed the Anasazi are more clearly defined. The Southern Paiutes
hunted and gathered in the increasingly dry regions of southern Nevada. The
Northern Paiutes, who call themselves Numa (meaning “the people”) shared the
Great Basin of northern Nevada with the Shoshone and Washo, the latter occupying
the Lake Tahoe area and the broad valleys over the eastern precipice of the Sierra
Nevadas. It would be more than 500 years before these Native Americans would
encounter the first “illegal aliens.”
While men in powdered wigs were pounding out a more perfect union on America’s
east coast, the first European entered Nevada. In 1776, padre Francisco Garces and
two Native American guides, searching for a direct route between New Spain
strongholds at Santa Fe and Monterey, traveled through the southern tip of Nevada.
Exactly 50 years later, Jedediah Smith, working for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company,
followed in Garces’ footsteps. His party wintered in California, then returned east and
became the first white people to cross central Nevada on their way to Salt Lake City.
In the north, another trapper named Peter Skene Ogden slipped into Nevada from
what is now Oregon and reached the Humboldt River in 1828. A year later he
returned to follow the Humboldt until the river vanished into the desert soil at
Humboldt Sink. In 1830, Mexican Antonio Amijo left Santa Fe and headed west. His
group found a shortcut and stopped at a spring in present-day Las Vegas. In 1833,
trapper Joseph Walker worked westward on the Humboldt and Walker rivers in the
north, then returned east along the route the next year.
Eight years later the first wagon train, the Bidwell Bartelson Party, entered Nevada
(which was the property of the Republic of Mexico until the Mexican-American War
and the ensuing Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848) and followed the Humboldt
River, crossed the dreaded Forty-Mile Desert, and headed over the Sierras. With
westward emigration becoming all the rage, John C. Fremont, who would later
become a war hero, Indian fighter and presidential candidate, was dispatched to map
the area. In 1843 and ’44, Fremont and Kit Carson scouted northern Nevada (guided
by a Northern Paiute leader named Captain Truckee), encountering Pyramid Lake,
naming the Carson River and becoming the first known white people to see Lake
Tahoe. They entered California and returned east through southern Nevada, camping
at Las Vegas. In 1845, Fremont returned with Walker to continue his meticulous
cartography, which helped open the gateway to the West.
As settlers drifted slowly into the newly mapped country, the Mormons were the first
white residents, launching forays from their citadel at Salt Lake City. In 1849, the
church established the State of Deseret, covering most of Utah and Nevada, with
Brigham Young as governor. The idea didn’t fly in Washington, DC, but the Utah
Territory government, dominated by the church, continued to oversee Nevada.
Mormon missionaries were sent to Las Vegas in 1855, but abandoned it two years
later. By 1857, tensions between the Mormons running the Utah Territory and the
federal government had reached critical mass and the Mormon settlers were called
home from Nevada. Non-Mormons were glad to take over their homesteads and
settled in for two years of calm before the storm.
In 1859, gold prospectors east of Carson City hit silver. The Comstock Lode, as it
came to be called, turned out to be the largest silver strike in recorded world history
and literally put the Silver State on the map. Thousands of miners poured into the
Carson City and Virginia City areas from both California and points east, swelling the
population well into five figures. The Nevada Territory was formed in 1861, and, with
the riches from Nevada’s mines needed to finance the Union war effort, Nevada
became a state on Halloween, 1864.
As gold and silver were ripped from the ground and whites moved onto traditional
Native American land, violence escalated. In 1855, Winnemucca, chief of the
Northern Paiutes, signed a treaty with the federal government, but territory-hungry
pioneers paid little attention. In 1860, Paiutes reacted to the kidnapping of two of
their women by burning a trading post and killing three whites. A militia of 105
volunteers rode for the Paiutes’ camp, but was ambushed. Warriors under Numaga,
son of Winnemucca, killed two-thirds of them. A force of more than 750 white troops
and volunteers returned and routed the Paiutes, ending the brief Pyramid Lake War.
In 1874, the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation was established.
Meanwhile, railroads began crisscrossing northern Nevada, bringing town sites,
commerce and industry. In 1873, the mother of all lodes, the Big Bonanza, was struck
in Virginia City. The discovery – still the largest find of gold and silver ore in history –
produced $100 million over the next six years and fueled the growth of Virginia City,
Carson City, Reno and the surrounding areas.
The boom slowed and died by the end of the 19th century, then picked up again in
the early 1900s, particularly in southern Nevada, where a tiny rest stop called Las
Vegas was established in 1905. In the teens and ’20s, automobiles came into fashion
and highways began to stripe the state. Then in 1931 came the biggest strike of all:
gambling was legalized. Clubs soon popped up in Reno and in Las Vegas,
simultaneous with one of the greatest engineering feats of all time, the building of
Hoover Dam on the mighty Colorado River in Black Canyon. Streets were laid out,
industry arrived and Vegas was on its way.
The Mafia saw a healthy Baby Boom bottom line in gaming and after World War II
sent Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel to Vegas to shake down the bookies. Siegel’s vision,
however, was of a classy, upscale Vegas, which he almost realized in 1947 when he
borrowed enough Mob money to open the Flamingo, the first true hotel-casino. But
the Flamingo initially failed and Siegel took the fall, winding up murdered in Los
Angeles later that year. Ironically, the Flamingo soon reopened, began making money
and the boom was on.
More booms: The Nevada Proving Ground, later known as the Nevada Test Site,
opened in 1950. An area larger than Rhode Island beginning only 70 miles from Las
Vegas endured above-ground nuclear tests for more than 10 years, then underground
tests for 30 more. Lighting up the desert sky for miles around, the mushroom clouds
became public spectacles and symbols of the Atomic Age.
Gambling continued to cast a seedy shadow over Las Vegas as the city expanded to
65,000 people in 1960. Then in 1966, Howard Hughes suddenly began buying
casinos. By 1970, he owned six of them and Las Vegas was suddenly legitimate.
Hughes’ deals paved for the way for the legalization of corporate ownership of
casinos, spurring the unprecedented growth that continues unchecked today.

Nevada Today
Through the 1980s and ’90s, Las Vegas casinos sprouted like mushrooms after the
non-existent Nevada rain. This time, however, the new casinos have billed
themselves as resorts and theme parks and today you’re more likely to see Dad,
Mom and their 2.3 kids cruising the Strip than some swank hipsters looking for a little
action. The boom in tourism has been like kerosene on the fires of southern Nevada’s
economy, and Americans have become moths to the flame, moving to the region in
record numbers. Where 10 years ago there was just desert scrub in Las Vegas Valley,
today there are master-planned communities, 24-hour supermarkets and drive-thrus
on every corner.
The growth has seeped into every corner of the state. Reno and the Carson Valley are
seeing an influx of new residents lured by new jobs and no state income tax. Even
the outlying city-towns where cattle roamed the streets not too long ago, places like
Elko, Winnemucca, Fallon and Mesquite, are reaping the windfall. But the explosion
has not been without fallout. Today Nevadans are also struggling with growth,
working feverishly to upgrade the state’s infrastructure, find enough water, fight off a
proposed national nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain and protect the wild
outdoors. Untouched natural areas like Lake Tahoe and Red Rock Canyon are
threatened more and more each day by the lengthening shadow of urban
development. To many, Nevada is quickly becoming a microcosm of the joys and ills
of the post-modern West, a land dominated by a mobile population, a service-
oriented economy (50 percent of Nevada’s working population is employed in tourism
or service-related fields) and a constant debate over development. How much is too
much, and who’s to say? The locals? Or the feds in Washington, DC, who through one
agency or another control 85% of Nevada land, more than in any other state?
Today the battle is just beginning. Environmentalists have a hard road to hoe against
the builders and multi-use advocates – ranchers, trappers, miners, farmers – who
have controlled Nevada since the beginning. The entire West will be watching what
transpires.

The Land
No matter who you ask, the land is definitely unique in the American patchwork. The
notion of Nevada as a flat, dry, sand-blasted wasteland is just that – a notion. In fact,
Nevada is more mountainous than any other state. Depending on who’s counting,
there are at least 160 major mountain masses and another 100 individual peaks, hills
and uplands, with nine ranges topping 11,000 feet. The roof of Nevada is 13,145-foot
Boundary Peak on the California border in Esmeralda County. On the other side of the
state, Wheeler Peak, 13,063 feet, towers over Great Basin National Park. Near Las
Vegas, the Spring Mountains soar from 2,000 feet to nearly 12,000 feet in the space
of a few miles, one of the steepest vertical pitches in the world. Nevada even has its
own 10,839-foot Matterhorn. Get the idea? After all, Nevada is Spanish for “snow-
capped.”
The Great Basin covers five-sixths of Nevada. Named by explorer John C. Fremont in
1844, the term describes an area where the rivers cannot escape to the sea. Two of
Nevada’s longest rivers, the Carson and the Humboldt, gurgle through the northern
part of the state, then disappear into their respective “sinks,” ancient dry lake beds
where the sun evaporates the rivers faster than they can run. The Great Basin
stretches into western Utah, southeastern Oregon and southwestern California, but
no state lays claim to it like Nevada. Here, much of the Great Basin is broken up into
basins and ranges, the mountains running roughly north to south and looking like the
march of the caterpillars on a topographic map. An east-to-west drive across the
belly of Nevada is a rollercoaster ride: up a range, down a range, across a sagebrush-
covered basin, then up another range, down another range, and so on.
This basin and range also contains most of Nevada’s lakes and rivers. Yes, this is the
driest state in the nation with annual average precipitation of about nine inches. But
Nevada harbors more than 600 various rivers, lakes, reservoirs and other watery
bodies. In the north, besides the aforementioned Carson and Humboldt rivers, the
Truckee and Walker rivers flow into the basin from the Sierra Nevadas, the Reese runs
through the center of the state and the Owyhee River and Salmon Creek are found in
extreme northeastern Nevada. The Colorado River forms the southeast border of the
state, pooling behind Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead, the largest man-made lake in
the Western Hemisphere.
Large natural lakes dot the landscape near Reno, most notably Lake Tahoe, the
largest alpine lake in North America. Pyramid and Walker lakes are two of the last
vestiges of Lake Lahontan, a great inland sea that 50,000 years ago covered 8,500
square miles of western Nevada.
Lower and drier, the southeastern corner of Nevada, including Las Vegas and
Laughlin, are part of the vast Mojave Desert. This is the desolate land of Hollywood
cinematographers: gray soil covered by cactus and spooky Joshua trees, stunning red
and orange sandstone formations standing against an unbroken sky, yucca-covered
flats stretching toward purple mountains’ majesty. Meadow Valley Wash and the
Virgin River, which empty into Lake Mead from the north, are the only reliable,
natural sources of running water.
The landforms and various bodies of water support a diverse mix of public
wilderness, most of which is under the control of the Bureau of Land Management.
Created to handle the “leftover” land after the Western frontier closed, the BLM has
lately been cast in the middle of a growing dispute between the traditional users of
this “unwanted” territory – particularly ranchers, miners and off-road vehicle
enthusiasts – and conservationists who protest the damage done to the natural order
by livestock and machinery. For the greens, it’s an uphill climb all the way,
considering the lack of precedent for leaving land alone in Nevada. It seems many
recent victories have come with a costly compromise.
When Congress passed the first wilderness act in 1964, only 65,000 acres were set
aside in Nevada, in the remote north near Jarbidge. Not until 22 years later did the
Feds add to the list, establishing 77,000-acre Great Basin National Park. In 1989, the
government created 14 new wilderness areas covering more than 730,000 acres. But
that was only half the acreage originally proposed by Congress in 1985, and included
provisions protecting pre-existing grazing rights in the new wilderness.
In the 1970s, the BLM studied five million acres (of the 45 million acres it oversees) in
111 areas for possible recommendation to Congress as federal wilderness, then
whittled that down to less than two million acres. The recommendations have been
under review for years.
What is undisputed is that Nevada is home to 22 state parks, 14 national recreation
areas, 14 federally protected wildlife refuges and a sliver of the nation’s newest
national park, Death Valley. The opportunities for losing oneself in the outdoors are
limitless. Or are they? It depends on the fate of Nevada’s open country now being
debated in legislatures and roadside cafés from Washington to Washoe Valley.

Plant Life
With its incredible gamut of habitat – from soaring alpine peaks to searing desert flats
and everything in between – Nevada supports an equally wide range of flora and
fauna. Still, the majority of the basin and range is characterized by one plant: big
sagebrush (Artemesia tridentata). This fragrant shrub has taken over since native
grasses have been grazed out of existence by livestock. Commonly found alongside
sagebrush are other plants that thrive in semi-arid conditions, such as rabbitbrush,
greasewood, horsebrush and shadescale.
Between the valley floors and mountain ridges, the two species of predominant trees
are easy to identify. The squat Utah juniper, with its tiny, finger-shaped needles and
small blue berries, is generally found throughout the state between 5,000 and 8,000
feet above sea level. Often found near the juniper is pinyon pine (or singleleaf pine),
the only one of the 100-odd pines with singular needles. The pinyon pine’s nuts were
a staple of many Nevada Native Americans, and the fall ritual of collecting the pine
nuts continues today among people of all races across the state. Mountain mahogany
is occasionally spotted at these middle elevations.
At elevations above 6,000 feet, quaking aspens and their silver-dollar-shaped leaves
seem to applaud whenever a stiff wind blows through them. Apart from aspens, it is
difficult to characterize the extent of hardwood forests over such a large geographic
area. In the wetter western Nevada ranges, particularly the Sierra Nevadas, the soil
supports many varieties of evergreens up to about 9,000 feet, including white and
red fir and vanilla-scented Jeffrey pine, ponderosa pine, Washoe pine, western white
pine, lodgepole pine, mountain hemlock and sugar pine. In the mountains,
biodiversity tends to decrease the closer one gets to the middle of the Great Basin.
The king of Great Basin vegetation, bristlecone pine, is usually found just below
timberline on mountain ridges. The bristlecone can live longer than anything else on
Earth, up to 5,000 years. Impressive stands of these ancient trees can be found in the
Spring Mountains outside Las Vegas and in Great Basin National Park.
The banks of the precious streams and rivers of Nevada, which make up just 1% of
the land, support as much as 80% of the state’s flora. Towering cottonwood trees are
common in these rare riparian regions, along with alder, willow and dogwood.
At the other extreme, Mojave Desert plants have evolved to thrive in parched
conditions. The four types of cacti most commonly found in southern Nevada appear
markedly different: cholla, prickly pear, hedgehog and barrel. They may conserve
energy by growing as little as a foot in 10 years, and their seeds may lie dormant for
that long before sprouting. Above the desert floor, creosote bush has an oily,
waterproof coating called lac that Southern Paiutes used as glue. Other common
shrubs include catclaw acacia, Russian thistle (tumbleweed) and Indian rice grass,
the official state grass. The Joshua tree, which is actually a type of yucca, stretches
its arms into the sky above the Mojave. The rare, hallucinogenic sacred datura, or
jimson weed, blooms by night here, waiting to be pollinated by the giant sphynx
moth.

Animal Life
Nevada’s fauna are as varied as its flora, with more than 120 mammal species and
370 bird species. The state’s upper elevations especially act as lush biological islands
in the seas of sagebrush and sand, supporting one of the most powerful players in
North America’s food web, the mountain lion. Black bears, however, seem absent
from Nevada almost entirely; the exception being the Sierra Nevada ranges that
extend into the state. After being threatened for decades by diseases from grazing
animals and loss of habitat, bighorn sheep have been making a comeback recently.
Ironically, help comes from hunters, who are fighting to sustain this choice big-game
animal. Three subspecies of bighorn inhabit Nevada: California bighorn in the
northwest, Rocky Mountain bighorn in the northwest and desert bighorn in the south.
Small numbers of elk can be found in middle-elevation forests, while mule deer are
abundant. Other common Great Basin mammals include bobcat, coyote, fox, beaver,
skunk, badger, weasel, pika, yellow-bellied marmot and chipmunk.
The mammals of the Mojave are active at night. The desert bighorn sheep, seen on
Nevada’s license plates, can live to be 14 years old and grow to 200 pounds. Blacktail
jackrabbits, kangaroo rats, antelope ground squirrels and feral burros and horses are
also common. In the air over the desert, both little and big brown bats are common
just after sunset. Other common flyers include the golden eagle, prairie falcon, red-
tailed hawk, Gambel’s quail, greater roadrunner, burrowing owl and canyon wren. The
Mojave is home to at least 15 species of reptiles, including the rare and venomous
banded Gila monster, chuckwalla, horned lizard and the ubiquitous Western fence
lizard. Snakes include several types of rattlers, among them the sidewinder and
Western diamondback. Meanwhile, the threatened desert tortoise struggles to survive
amid growing desert development.
America’s two poisonous spiders, the black widow and brown recluse, also live in the
Mojave, along with scorpions and the relatively harmless desert tarantula.
It may not seem surprising that the driest state in the country is home to the highest
number of threatened and endangered fish species. From the two-inch Devil’s Hole
pupfish living in tiny pools in the Amargosa Desert to the prehistoric holdover called
the cui-ui found only in Pyramid Lake, some of Nevada’s 67 types of native fish have
been decimated by decreasing habitat and pushed aside in many areas by non-native
species planted for sportfishing. Trout are the favorite of anglers, with Lahontan
cutthroat, brook, brown, rainbow, golden and Dolly Varden found in creels throughout
Nevada. Bass are popular additions to many reservoirs, and walleye can still be seen
in part of the Humboldt River.

How To Use This Book

This guide divides Nevada into five regions: Las Vegas Territory, Reno-Tahoe Territory,
Cowboy Country, Pony Express Territory and Pioneer Territory. This structure borrows
from regions defined by the Nevada Commission on Tourism’s visitors’ guides and
literature. This will help the adventure traveler easily cross-reference information with
other sources. It also assumes that you will start your adventures, like almost every
other Nevada visitor, in the gateway cities of either Las Vegas or Reno.
Each chapter begins with a short introduction to the region, covering its history,
culture and most attractive features. A section on Touring follows, detailing the
region’s main roads and transportation information. Touring is also a turn-by-turn
guide to the more easily accessible roadside highlights, broken down by specific
locales. It attempts to separate the tourist traps from the truly unique. This section
also includes sources for expert information, such as visitors bureaus, chambers of
commerce and state and federal land management agencies.
After Touring are sections covering each type of specific adventure, on land, on
water, on snow and in the air. Along with detailed information on where to go, you’ll
find listings for equipment retailers and/or guides in the area who are often the best
sources for inside tips. A list of regional campgrounds follows each Adventures
section.
Each chapter closes with a rundown of local accommodations and restaurants. Rather
than simply listing hotels and eateries, wherever possible this section spotlights the
unusual places to stay and eat in each region. Lodgings are given a price level
symbol according to the following chart. Note that many hotels and inns change their
rates seasonally, so use these symbols only as a general reference.
Accommodations Price Scale

$.....................................Up to $50 per day

$$...................................$50 to $100
$$$.................................$100 to $175
$$$$...............................More than $175

Adventures
 On Foot
Walking, Hiking, Backpacking, Rock Climbing
Traveling on foot in Nevada requires hardiness, forethought and patience. The climate
and geography are such that human-powered travelers can experience blazing heat
and below-freezing cold in one 12-hour period. Even when the trails are in sight of a
glittering hotel-casino, it is necessary to do some homework before stepping out in
the Silver State. With trails that are often far apart and limits on government
resources, trail maintenance in Nevada is often a catch-as-catch-can proposition. The
well-defined dotted line of a USGS topo map might in reality be a washed-out,
boulder-covered mess after a rough winter. This suggests two simple rules: always
use the most up-to-date maps available and always contact local land management
agencies in the area of your destination to double-check your maps and inquire about
trail conditions. Finally, flexibility in planning is the key to having an enjoyable time in
Nevada’s backcountry. Trails may be gone, fire roads may be closed for off-road
racing, rock faces may be restricted to protect recently discovered petroglyphs. It is
best to leave ample time for unexpected detours and have an alternate plan ready.
Finally, as varied and wondrous as the Nevada backcountry can be, it can be also be
extremely dangerous – even deadly. The remoteness that makes this wilderness so
inviting can also make it treacherous for the unprepared. Just because a government
agency puts up a sign at a trailhead does not mean that a forest ranger will be
checking on hikers or can come running in an emergency. As this guide goes to press,
there are only 19 incorporated cities in the entire state of Nevada, so help is usually a
long way away. Anyone entering the Nevada backcountry has an obligation to
themselves as well as to law enforcement and search-and-rescue teams to be as self-
reliant as possible.
Sport-Climbing Ratings
This books refers to the sport-climbing ratings used commonly in North America,
known as the Yosemite Decimal System. The ratings are a subjective measurement of
the technical difficulty of the most challenging part of a climb, although the rating is
usually increased if the climb is a very long one.
The first digit of each rating signifies the class of the climb according to the following
scale:
 Class 1 - Easy hiking.
 Class 2 - Hiking with some altitude gain and loss
 Class 3 - Boulder hopping, occasionally using hands
 Class 4 - Climbing, using the hands, but without the need for a belay (scrambling)
 Class 5 - Technical climbing with a belay (free climbing)
 Class 6 - Aided climbing
The number following the class indicates the difficulty of the climb, ranging from .0 to
.14 (and sometimes beyond). For Class 5 routes, the most popular among serious
rock climbers, the lower numbers (.0 to .6) indicate that two handholds and two
footholds are available for every move.
There are fewer sure holds as the numbers increase, until all holds disappear at .10.
Beyond that, climbers enter the realm of myth, legend, and braggadocio – usually
over pints of ale.
Ratings are generally applied by the first climber to make a particular ascent or
move, then amended by subsequent climbers. By their nature, these ratings are
meant only as guidelines, not hard-and-fast rules. As with all outdoor activities, use
common sense before you get into trouble, taking into account personal experience,
climbing partners, and the weather when determining the safest course of action.
Cautions
The US Forest Service suggests that all backcountry travelers follow these guidelines:
 Take no chances. Assistance can take hours or days.
 Be aware of conditions. Varied terrain exposes hikers to hypothermia, dehydration
and lightning. Snow fields are common year-round at higher elevations.
 Begin hiking early in the day. Storms are more common in the afternoon.
 Don’t travel alone. File a hiking plan with someone at home and stick to it. Give
them descriptions of yourself, your clothes (including what type of track your boots
make) and your vehicle. If the plan changes, check in so you can be found if
something goes wrong.
 Remain in good physical condition and know your limits. Allow time to acclimate to
altitude.
 Always take fresh water with you. In the arid country of Nevada, one gallon per
person per day is the minimum.
 Pack spare everything – food, clothing, first-aid supplies – in case you get
stranded.
 On Wheels
Four-Wheel Drive Vehicles & Bicycles
Perhaps the best way to adventure in Nevada is with a rugged, four-wheel-drive
vehicle. Not one of those trendy, knobby-tired sport-utilities that are jumping off the
showroom floors, but a powerful, high-clearance job, preferably one with a large gas
tank, racks for extra gas cans on the back and an expendable paint job. Many of the
best adventures in this guide require travel on unpaved roads. Even during dry
weather these gravel and dirt byways can be bumpy and rutted, but when they are
wet they can be downright impassable. Always check with the local authorities listed
in this guide for road and weather conditions.
 The state of Nevada publishes excellent road maps, but the constant companion
of any adventurer should be the Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer published by DeLorme.
The Gazetteer now includes global positioning system coordinates that can be used
in conjunction with electronic handheld GPS units now on the market. They can
pinpoint your position in latitude and longitude to within a few hundred feet.
Preparing for Emergencies
Keep in mind that most emergency situations begin with a vehicle breakdown. The
only way around this potential crisis is preparation. The non-profit Desert-Alpine
Reserve Emergency Services (DARES) of Maricopa County, Arizona, have published
an excellent booklet called Desert Awareness, which lists these rules for safe desert
travel:
 Be prepared. Make sure your vehicle is in top condition. Carry an inflated spare tire
or two, tools, jack, spare belts, extra gas, water and fluids.
 If you become stranded, stay put. Vehicles are easier to find than individuals
walking in the wilderness. Raise the hood and the trunk to signal for help.
 If you have water, drink it as needed. Do not ration water.
 If water is in limited supply, minimize talking and eating. Don’t smoke or drink
alcohol.
 Do not sit or lie directly on the hot ground, which can be 30° warmer than the
surrounding air.
 If you are positive of which direction to travel for help and must leave the vehicle,
leave a note telling searchers who you are, when you left and where you are headed.
 If you find a traveled road, stay on it.
 Watch the sky for storms and stay out of washes. A storm many miles away may
send flood waters rushing through low-lying areas.

For more information on desert survival, contact DARES, PO Box 39340, Phoenix, AZ,
85096.
Mountain biking in Nevada, especially in the south near Las Vegas and Laughlin, is
more popular than ever. Many of the bike shops and tour guides that have popped up
recently in Vegas can provide bikes, tips and maps to the latest hot single track. The
Lake Tahoe area is also a hotbed for mountain bikers. The rest of Nevada, however, is
literally uncharted fat-tire country, left out of popular literature. This book isn’t big
enough to list them all, but most National Forest trails allow bikes on trails (except, of
course, in wilderness areas). Biking in such isolated country can be as inspiring as it
is potentially dangerous. Be sure to follow the aforementioned precautions for hikers
and drivers when heading out.
 On Water
Boating, Fishing, Floating
There’s nothing better than pulling up to a beautiful, blue watering hole after hours of
driving through a sagebrush desert. Nevada offers a lifetime’s worth of water-borne
adventures on its handful of rivers and hundreds of streams, lakes and reservoirs.
Two of the most renowned bodies of water in North America wash up on Nevada
beaches: Lake Tahoe, the gem of the Sierras, and gigantic Lake Mead, created when
Hoover Dam tamed the Colorado River.

Boating on either Lake Tahoe or Lake Mead can be awesome, but take extra care.
Sudden storms can instantly rile up both lakes, bringing high winds and unsafe
conditions.

Many streams, lakes and reservoirs are accessible only via gravel and dirt roads that
can be unsuitable for some boat trailers. Local authorities and bait and tackle shops
will provide updated information.
 On Snow
Downhill & Cross-Country Skiing, Snowmobiling
Nowhere else in America can you go from a double-diamond run to a five-diamond
flush on a video poker machine in a matter of minutes. Nevada’s well-known ski
resorts are in the Lake Tahoe Basin, but a hidden gem can be found only an hour from
the Las Vegas Strip in Lee Canyon. Meanwhile, the Ruby Mountains in central Nevada
welcome heli-skiers from across the country to their extreme slopes.
At these higher elevations, many of the trails that beckon hikers and mountain bikers
in warmer months welcome cross-country skiers, snowshoers and snowmobilers
when the weather turns cold. Check with local land managers for trail conditions.
 In The Air
Scenic Flights, Ballooning, Skydiving, Soaring
Where there is Vegas, there are tourists. And where there are tourists, there are all
types of sky-high adventures. Small airports in the Las Vegas Valley support air-
touring companies and skydive operations. Ballooning and soaring are both popular
pursuits in the Carson Valley south of Reno. For those who like to watch, Reno holds
both balloon and powered flight races every year.

Climate
The climate in Nevada varies wildly according to the landscape, but there are a few
general trends to expect in the state. Summer and early fall can be blistering. In the
Mojave Desert of southern Nevada, temperatures above 110° are common. Laughlin,
on the Colorado River, recorded the state’s highest reading – 125° in 1994. In the
Great Basin, summer commonly brings highs in the 90s and above.
Summer is also the time of thunderstorms in the south, although they can occur at
any time of year. These storms are known to appear with little warning, throwing rain,
hail and lightning at the desert floor – which is unable to soak up the downpours.
Flashfloods are the predictable result, but despite the obvious danger, some people
are trapped or swept away by rising water every year.

Keep an eye on the sky and an ear tuned to weather reports. If thunderstorms
threaten, get out of low-lying areas. Leave the high altitudes as well; lightning is a
deadly threat on the mountains.

The weather has extreme potential in winter, too. In southern Nevada, winds gusting
upwards of 40 miles per hour on the valley floors can send windchill temperatures
plunging into the 20s. In the mountains, snow comes in buckets at higher elevations
and can stay for months. In the north, basin winters can be chilly, windy, rainy and
occasionally snowy, with overnight lows in the 20s and 30s. The ranges are
sometimes pounded with snow that lingers for months. In extreme northern and
eastern parts of the state, winter temps sometimes drop below zero.
Information Sources

The federal and state agencies listed below are excellent sources of travel
information. For information on specific locales, see the listings that accompany each
chapter.
Nevada Commission on Tourism, Capitol Complex, Carson City, NV 89710, 800-
NEVADA-8, www.travelnevada.com.
Nevada Department of Transportation, 1263 South Stewart Street, Carson City,
NV 89712, 702-687-4219.
Nevada Division of State Parks, 1300 South Curry Street, Carson City, NV 89703,
702-687-4384.
Nevada Division of Wildlife, 1100 Valley Road, Reno, NV 89520, 702-688-1500.
Bureau of Land Management, 850 Harvard Way, Reno, NV 89502, 702-785-6500.
US Forest Service, Intermountain Region, 324 25th Street, Ogden, UT, 84401,
801-625-5182.
Great Basin National Park, Baker, NV 89311, 702-234-7331.
Las Vegas Territory
Southern Nevada is a region of shocking contrast. Nowhere else on the planet
is the gulf between man’s avarice and nature’s sublimity wider – or in many ways,
closer. While modern-day robber barons fill the cities with their pleasure palaces of
steel and glass, southern Nevada’s 140-million-year-old Aztec sandstone waits
draped in crimson on the outskirts, in plain view of the casinos, as if quietly biding its
time until the slot players let down their guard and it can reclaim its rented-out
pieces of the Mojave Desert.
Nearly 30 million visitors a year descend on southern Nevada, the vast
majority to Las Vegas and its lure of easy money, cheap food, lounge shows – and
recently, the emergence of all-inclusive “theme resorts.” But step outside the hotel-
casinos, off the ever-expanding asphalt of America’s fastest growing city, and Las
Vegas Valley struts her rugged beauty like the best of showgirls. Within an hour’s
drive of the Strip are places of – for now – untouched serenity and hear-your-own-
heartbeat desolation. If you think hitting a 15 against the dealer’s 10 is an adventure,
try hiking to an 11,000-foot peak, or biking past a sidewinder’s tracks, or landing your
boat in a secluded cove while desert bighorns scramble across the cliffs above you.
It’s an easy drive from the Strip to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation
Area and its ancient sand dunes; the Spring Mountains’ alpine peaks; the inviting
waters of 110-mile long Lake Mead; and Valley of Fire with its mysterious 1,000-year-
old petroglyphs.
Inside the city limits, the Las Vegas Natural History Museum and Old Mormon
Fort provide a glimpse into the region’s past, both prehistoric and otherwise. For
performing arts that don’t require a two-drink minimum, the University of Nevada Las
Vegas offers a treasure trove of drama, music and dance. North of Las Vegas
the 1.6 million acres of the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, bigger than the state of
Delaware, beckon the intrepid traveler. To the south the growing communities of
Henderson and Boulder City reflect the last visions of southern Nevada’s gold and
silver booms. They are the gateways to Hoover Dam, one of the world’s engineering
marvels and keeper of today’s desert treasure: water.

While adventuring, take precautions against broiling heat, biting cold, fierce
winds and torrential rains. Even in Las Vegas proper, people are killed every year by
exposure, wind-related accidents and flashfloods. Check weather reports often and
be prepared for quickly changing conditions. In warmer months, stay hydrated and, if
possible, stay inside or at high elevations during the middle of the day. When
thunderstorms hit, leave mountains and low-lying areas immediately. A big helping of
common sense and caution are necessary in southern Nevada.

From the dam, the now-bucolic Colorado River flows gently into Lake Mojave, a
mecca for boaters and anglers. At its southern tip, the lake gives way to the shining
miniopolis of Laughlin, a true Western boomtown for the 21st century, where one
man’s dream grew from a bait shop into a glittering, gambling desert oasis almost
overnight.
Only in southern Nevada do those ludicrous dreams still have a chance of
coming true. It’s a place where the West is still wild, from the carpeted casino floors
to the wind-scoured peak of Charleston Peak, 11,918 feet above it all.

Touring
Touring in southern Nevada starts in Las Vegas. The best trips are out-and-back loops
beginning and ending at your hotel. To the west via Nevada 159 lie Red Rock Canyon
and Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. US 95 leads northwest toward Mt. Charleston
and the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. Driving southeast on US 93 leads to Boulder
City, Hoover Dam and the south shore of Lake Mead. Northward on Interstate 15 is
Valley of Fire State Park. Laughlin is 50 miles south on US 95 alongside the Colorado
River.
 Las Vegas
The 24-hour gambling capital of the world and the home of the 99¢ giant shrimp
cocktail didn’t get off to a very rousing start. The first white settlers in Nevada,
Mormon missionaries sent by Brigham Young, arrived in Las Vegas Valley in 1855.
They drew some strange stares from the native Southern Paiutes, struggled against
the torturous desert and trudged out of town only three years later.
Today, excess has become success in the most flamboyant town in the history
of Western civilization. The lure of a faux volcano, a glass and steel pyramid,
abundant jobs, affordable homes, video poker and the expanding aura of the West’s
last boomtown have combined to make Las Vegas the post-modern capital of
America. But beyond the neon lights and craps tables, behind the constant highway
and housing-tract construction, there is a side of Sin City that beckons with natural
wonders and a sense of history.
Museums & Culture
A good place to begin is where the Mormons did 140 years ago. Old Mormon
Fort State Historic Park, 908 Las Vegas Boulevard North, 702-486-3511, is the
oldest Euro-American building in the state. After the Mormons headed back to Salt
Lake, the original fort was used by ranchers, Hoover Dam concrete engineers, and
the Elks Club, which demolished all but the remaining adobe building. The fort is
open daily, 8 AM to 4 PM. Admission is free.
Next door is the Las Vegas Natural History Museum, 900 Las Vegas
Boulevard North, 702-384-3466. Among the many highlights are animatronic
dinosaurs, an exhibit of local wildlife and live sharks, which are fed Tuesday mornings
and Thursday and Saturday afternoons. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4 PM.
Admission is $5 for adults, $2.50 for children four-12.
Across the street within the Las Vegas Central Library complex is the Lied
Children’s Discovery Museum, 833 Las Vegas Boulevard North, 702-482-3445.
With more than 130 exhibits, many of them interactive, a trip to this 40,000-square
foot local favorite can stretch on for hours. The museum is open Tuesday through
Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, and until 7 PM on Wednesday. Admission is $5 for adults, $4
for seniors and children 12 and over, $3 for children under 12.
On the west side of town, Lorenzi Park, 700 Twin Lakes Drive, is home to the
Nevada State Museum and Historical Society, 702-486-4205, a must for
anyone interested in this curious region. Find excellent displays on Nevada’s quirky
past, unusual flora and fauna and local art. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM,
except on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. The admission is $2.

The above attractions are located in neighborhoods that leave something to be

desired after dark. It’s a good idea to do most of your exploring before the sun goes
down.

The Las Vegas Art Museum, 3333 West Washington Avenue, 702-647-
3300, shows the work of international and national artists, as well as local legends.
The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM, Sunday noon to 3 PM.
Admission is free.
Another west-side adventure can be found at the Southern Nevada
Zoological Park, 1775 North Rancho Drive, 702-648-5955. This tiny, privately
owned zoo has both wild and tame creatures, including a tigarina – a small,
endangered cat native to Central and South America. This is the only specimen in
captivity in North America. Open daily 9 AM to 4:30 PM. A few miles southwest of the
zoo, the new Las Vegas Fine Arts Museum, 9600 West Sahara Avenue, 702-228-
1940, is housed in a beautiful post-modern building with a branch library.
South on the Strip toward casino canyon is the Guinness World of Records
Museum, 2780 Las Vegas Boulevard South, 702-792-0640. Along with the displays
of the tallest, fattest, slowest and oddest is an interesting exhibit on Las Vegas
originals. The museum is open Monday through Thursday, 9 AM to 9 PM, Friday
through Sunday until 11 PM. Admission is $4.95 for adults, $3.95 for seniors and
students.
Just off the glittering Strip, but no less extravagant, is the Liberace Museum,
1775 East Tropicana Avenue, 702-798-5595. Dedicated to Mr. Showmanship, who
made his Sin City debut at age 23, this is the most popular non-casino attraction in
Las Vegas. Don’t miss the world’s largest rhinestone and the piano once used by
Chopin. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM, Sunday, 1 PM
to 5 PM. The tax-deductible admission is $6.95 for adults, $4.50 for seniors.
Southeast of the Strip, the 335-acre University of Nevada Las Vegas campus,
4505 South Maryland Parkway, 702-895-3011, offers a bounty of academia and
visual and performing arts. The Barrick Museum of Natural History, 702-895-
3381, has one of the best displays of Native American artifacts in the entire
Southwest. The museum is open Monday through Friday, 8 AM to 4:45 PM. The Beam
Fine Art Gallery, 702-895-3893, features work by students, faculty and invited
artists. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday, 8 AM to 5 PM.
Performing arts take the stage at the state-of-the-art Artemus W. Ham
Concert Hall, Judy Bayley Theatre and Alta Ham Black Box Theatre. For more
information on the Nevada Symphony, Nevada Dance Theatre and others who
perform here, call 702-895-3801. Yes, actual cosmopolitan, black-tie-and-tails
culture in the heart of Lost Wages.
Natural Wonders
But even more inspiring are the natural wonders surrounding this most
unnatural of cities. The most convenient place to discover the eye-popping beauty of
the Mojave is Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area,  702-363-1921.
Located about 20 miles west of the Strip via Charleston Boulevard (which becomes
Nevada 159 en route), this 260-square-mile region is a geologic wonderland of bright
red sawtooth peaks, giant, pink sandstone gumdrops and soaring limestone and
granite ridges. Seasonal streams, an abandoned quarry and Native American
petroglyphs and agave roasting pits can be found along more than 30 miles of some
of the best hiking trails in the state. The area is also a mecca for rock climbers, who
swear by a guide called The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada. (See below, under
Adventures on Foot.) The best time to take the 13-mile, one-way loop drive is early
morning, when the rising sun really sets the rocks’ iron oxide coating ablaze. It’s also
the only time you’ll find much solitude: Red Rock gets more than a million visitors a
year.
The park is open daily, 7 AM to dusk. The extensive visitor center is open 8 AM
to 4:30 PM. The entrance fee is $5 per vehicle and an annual pass goes for $20.
Continue on Nevada 159 south of Red Rock, along the way looking for wild
burros (leftovers from the early mining days). The shaggy critters will probably come
right up to your car, but feeding them is punishable by a fine – and they bite. It’s five
miles to Spring Mountain Ranch State Park,  702-875-4141. With structures
dating back to 1864, Spring Mountain Ranch has attracted various owners, among
them Howard Hughes and Vera Krupp, wife of a German munitions tycoon.
Interpretive programs and short hikes are offered. The park is open daily, 8 AM to
sunset, later during summer months, when locals flock to family musicals under the
stars to keep their minds off the heat. The admission is $5 per vehicle.
An unabashedly commercial operation lies another half-mile south. Bonnie
Springs Old Nevada,  702-875-4191, began in 1843 as a water stop for wagon
trains headed for California on the Old Spanish Trail. Today there is a restaurant,
saloon, petting zoo, trail rides and a “real” Western town, complete with mock
gunfights and hangings. The town opens daily at 10:30 AM and closes at 6 PM in the
summer, 5 PM in the winter. The restaurant and bar are open daily, 8 AM to 11 PM.
 Once back on the broiling Las Vegas Strip, a tour toward cooler regions heads
northwest on US 95. About 12 miles from the intersection of US 95 and US 15, a
turnoff leads to wonderful little (16-acre) Floyd Lamb State Park, 702-486-5413.
Besides being a peaceful picnic spot and popular fishing hole, the park is also one of
the West’s most notable archeological sites. Evidence of prehistoric humans dating
back to 11000 BC, and the horses and sloths they hunted among the tule reeds, have
been unearthed here. The park is open daily, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is $4.
Back on US 95, head north about four miles and turn left on to Nevada 157,
the road to Mt. Charleston. The highway climbs gently through sagebrush and Joshua
tree country toward the Toiyabe National Forest and the purple wall of the Spring
Mountains. Stop for a look inside the rustic Mt. Charleston Hotel, 2 Kyle Canyon
Road, 702-872-5500, then continue through the pines to the Kyle Canyon Ranger
Station, 702-872-7098, to pick up the excellent hiking maps. There are US Forest
Service campgrounds nearby. (See below, under Camping.) Pitch a tent, then head up
Nevada 157 to the end of the road at a bar and grill, the Mt. Charleston Lodge,
702-872-5408. Within a pinecone’s throw are five trailheads offering everything
from a quick two-hour walk to a thigh-burning, 17-mile, overnight hump to Charleston
Peak, elevation 11,918 feet. (See below, under On Foot.)
After the hike, backtrack eastward on Nevada 157 to the Nevada 158 turnoff and go
left. Beautiful subalpine trails begin along the roadside, and campsites offering 100-
mile views can be found near the highway’s crest. (See below, under Adventures and
Camping.) The highway ends at the intersection with Nevada 156, where a left turn
leads into Lee Canyon. During warmer months the area boasts ample hiking and one
of the only mouton biking routes in the Spring Mountains. In the winter, the canyon is
home to the Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort, 702-385-2SKI, and its 1,000
vertical feet of runs. And you thought Tahoe was the only place to ski by day and
gamble by night. For ski rental and shuttle bus information, see below under On
Snow.
Nevada 156 heads east 17 miles back to US 95, completing the Mt. Charleston
Loop. A right turn leads to Las Vegas, but a left turn and a short drive leads through
the Las Vegas Paiute Indian Reservation, all that remains of the Southern Paiute’s
once boundless claim to this gorgeous, desolate valley. At the northern edge of the
reservation, a turnoff winds northeast 4½ miles to the Desert National Wildlife
Refuge Corn Creek Area, 702-646-3401. A 10-acre site pot-holed by spring-fed
ponds, Corn Creek is Las Vegas’ closest gateway to the largest wildlife refuge in the
Lower 48. Bighorn sheep, Nevada’s state animal, may be spotted near water sources
during the summer. The 1.6 million-acre refuge’s interior is accessible only by a
carefully planned 4WD journey. (See below, under On Wheels.)
Las Vegas Transportation
McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas seems to be constantly expanding to
meet the increasing needs of visitors. The following are among the many commercial
airlines that serve Las Vegas.
Airlines
Air 21, 702-328-6400
Alaska Airlines, 800-426-0333
America West Airlines, 800-235-9292
American Trans Air, 800-543-3708
American Airlines, 800-433-7300
Canadian Airlines, 800-426-7000
Continental Airlines, 800-525-0280
Delta Air Lines, 800-221-1212
Delta Connection-Sky West, 800-453-9417
Frontier Airlines, 800-432-1359
Hawaiian Airlines, 800-446-4392
Kiwi Airlines, 800-538-5494
Midway, 800-446-4392
Northwest Airlines, 800-225-2525
Reno Air, 800-736-6247
Southwest Airlines, 800-435-9792
TriStar Airlines, 800-218-8777
TWA, 800-221-2000
United Airlines, 800-241-6522
USAir, 800-546-4564
Western Pacific Airlines, 800-930-3030

Rental Cars
Rental cars are available at the airport and many Strip and downtown hotels.
AA Auto Rentals, 800-290-3900
Airport Rent-A-Car, 800-785-8578
Alamo, 800-GO-ALAMO
Allstate, 800-634-6186
Always Rent-A-Car, 800-346-4222
Americar, 800-372-1981
Avis, 800-331-1212
Budget, 800-527-0700
Classic Car Rental, 800-372-1981
Dollar, 800-800-4000
Enterprise, 800-325-8007
Hertz, 800-654-3131
Ladki International, 800-245-2345
Lloyd’s International, 800-654-7037
Luxury Classic, 800-654-7037
National, 800-CAR-RENT
Preferred, 800-627-4654
Rent-A-Wreck, 800-227-0292
Sav-Mor, 800-634-6779
Thrifty, 800-367-2277
US Rent-A-Car, 800-777-9377
U-Save, 800-272-USAV
Value, 800-GO-VALUE
Buses
Several bus lines serve Las Vegas.
Gray Line Tours, 800-634-6579
Greyhound Lines, 800-231-2222
K-T Services, 702-882-3375
Ray & Ross Transport, 800-338-8111
Valen Transportation, 800-487-2252
Amtrak
Amtrak serves Las Vegas, stopping downtown. Call 800-USA-RAIL.

Information Sources
Las Vegas Chamber of Commerce, 711 East Desert Inn Road, NV 89109, 702-
735-1616.
Las Vegas Convention & Visitors Authority, 3150 Paradise Road, NV 89109,
800-332-5333.

 Henderson/Boulder City
From Las Vegas, US 93/95 runs southeast through the outskirts of Henderson, site of
the extensive Clark County Heritage Museum, 1830 South Boulder Highway,
702-455-7955. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 4:30 PM except Christmas and
New Year’s Day. Admission is $1.50 for adults, $1 for seniors and children under 16.
About 10 miles east on US 93 lies Boulder City, a peaceful town that was created in
1931 to house 4,000 Hoover Dam construction workers and planned as America’s
first experimental “model city.” The federal government ran Boulder City until 1960,
overseeing the plan until the town was incorporated. Did it work? Judge for yourself,
but first visit the Boulder City/Hoover Dam Museum, 444 Hotel Plaza, 702-294-
1888, for a look at a dam worker’s tent house. Maps of the Historic District and the
River Mountain Trail are available. On the north side of Boulder City, off US 93 at Ville
Drive, Hemenway Park attracts desert bighorn sheep in the early morning and
twilight hours.
Information Sources

Contact the Henderson Chamber of Commerce, 500 South Boulder Highway,

89105, 702-565-8591, or the Boulder City Visitors Center, 100 Nevada Highway,
89005, 702-293-2034.

Hoover Dam
Continuing northeast on US 93, you’ll hit the traffic long before you’ll hit the
dam eight miles away, unless it’s early morning or late afternoon. But a wait is worth
it to see this behemoth that tamed the mighty Colorado River. All of 726 feet high,
660 thick at the base, and 45 feet thick at the top, Hoover Dam took 5,000 workers
nearly four years to construct in this Black Canyon gorge. Its building caused the
death of 94 workers, but Hoover Dam reshaped the entire West. The cheap electricity
and predictable water flows generated by the dam enabled the explosive growth of
Las Vegas, Phoenix and Los Angeles. Hoover also created Lake Mead, the largest
man-made body of water in the Western Hemisphere.
Guided tours leave the new $123 million visitors center (the dam cost $175
million in the 1930s) daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM, taking gawkers 528 feet down
into the dam’s concrete innards. The cost is $5 for adults, $2.50 for seniors 62 and
over and children 10-16. Children under 10 are free. 702-294-3521
Lake Mead National Recreation Area
The lake spreads north and east from Hoover Dam, wetting 822 miles of
shoreline. Holding about 9 trillion gallons, Lake Mead provides water for 14 million
thirsty Westerners, including the greatest per capita water users in the nation, Las
Vegans. To explore Lake Mead from Hoover Dam, head back toward Boulder City,
stopping at the Alan Bible Visitor Center, 702-293-8907, for information on
camping, swimming, fishing, boating and diving. (See On Water below.) Be sure to
heed the warnings about driving in this remote country. From the visitor center, go
north on Nevada 166 (Lakeshore Road) about three miles to Boulder Beach, a public
swimming and boating area. It’s another 1½ miles to Lake Mead Marina, then six
miles through sagebrush and jackrabbit country to Las Vegas Bay, another small
marina and the home of the Lake Mead Cruises paddlewheeler, 702-293-6180.
Cruises range from midday trips ($14.50 for adults) to evening dinner/dance
excursions ($43).
Just beyond the bay, Nevada 166 heads away from the lake and forks. Go
straight to reach Henderson, or turn right to continue the lake tour and/or to return to
Vegas. In 3½ miles the turnoff for Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) appears on the
left and leads through the Sunrise Mountain Natural Area on the way back to the
city.
Going straight on what is now Nevada 167 (Lakeshore Boulevard) leads to the
turnoff for Calville Bay Resort and Marina, nearly five miles off the highway. Back
on Nevada 167, it’s about 25 lonely miles to the turnoff for Echo Bay Resort, which
rests on the Virgin River. Beyond here, the highway goes north 10 miles to a fork. A
right turn leads three miles to Overton Beach Marina, a left heads into the surreal
landscape of Valley of Fire State Park.
Valley of Fire State Park
If the shuttle to Mars is sold out, Valley of Fire will do quite nicely, thank you.
Nevada’s oldest state park opened in 1935 and ever since has amazed visitors with
sandstone formations of otherworldly colors and shapes. The displays in the visitor
center, 702-397-2088, explain the geology and forces of erosion, but there just
aren’t words to describe the sublime glow of Valley of Fire’s 140-million-year-old
Aztec sandstone under the rising or setting sun. There are half a dozen prime hiking
trails (see On Foot below), mesmerizing ancient petroglyphs and two drive-in
campgrounds.

Be aware that the weather here can be as extreme as the scenery, with
temperatures climbing well above 100° in the summer and flash floods a constant
threat during thunderstorm season.

The quickest way to return to Vegas from Valley of Fire is to exit the west side
of the park and go 15 miles to US 15, then south about 35 miles to the center of the
Strip.
Searchlight/Laughlin
Midway between Henderson and Boulder City, US 95 slides south through the
desolate Eldorado Valley, skirts the Highland Range Crucial Bighorn Habitat Area and
passes through Searchlight. Named for a brand of matches, the town was a gold- and
silver-mining hub for the first 40 years of this century. The Searchlight Historical
Museum and Mining Park, 200 Michael Wendoll Way, 702-297-1682, relives those
days. The museum is open Monday through Friday, 9 AM to 5 PM, Saturday, 9 AM to
1 PM. East of Searchlight 14 miles, on Lake Mojave, is Cottonwood Cove Resort
and Marina, 702-297-1464, with motel, campground and fishing and swimming
spots.
It’s another 14 miles south of Searchlight to the Christmas Tree Pass
turnoff. A bumpy gravel road leads east up into the Newberry Mountains, past bizarre
pinnacles and outcrops to the pass, where pine trees are hung with all sorts of
“decorations.” From here it’s seven miles to a rest stop at Grapevine Canyon,
where a short drive and hike lead to outstanding petroglyphs in a cool little canyon.
The northern end of Laughlin is only nine miles away. Don Laughlin started here with
a motel, bar and bait shop, constructed his Riverside Casino, and watched the town
balloon to where it now threatens Reno for the No. 2 spot on Nevada’s gambling
revenues chart and attracts 500,000 visitors a month. Nevada’s record-high
temperature, 125°, was recorded in Laughlin in 1994, so it’s no surprise that
adventures are centered on the Colorado River and finger-shaped Lake Mojave, which
backs up north of town behind 20-story Davis Dam, 520-754-3628. North of the
dam on the Arizona side of the river, a road leads 3½ miles to Katherine Landing,
520-754-3272, a campground and marina. South of here is camping, hiking and a
beach at Davis Camp County Park, 520-754-4606, in Bullhead City, Arizona. (For
details on all three, see below, under Adventures.) Just south of the park is the
Colorado River Museum, 355 Highway 95, 520-754-3399. The museum is open
Tuesday through Saturday, 10 AM to 3 PM Mountain Time. Admission is a $1 donation.
Henderson/Boulder City Transportation
Airlines
At presstime, four commercial operators offer regularly scheduled flights into
Bullhead City/Laughlin Airport:
America West Express, 800-235-9292
Eagle Canyon Airlines, 800-46-4584
Reno Air, 800-736-6247
United Express, 800-241-6522

Rental Cars
Several agencies also rent cars in Laughlin:
Avis, 800-331-1212
Budget, 800-527-0700
Enterprise, 800-325-8007
Hertz, 800-654-3131

Information Sources

For more information, contact the Laughlin Visitors Bureau, 1555 South Casino
Drive, 800-FOR-LAUGHLIN.

Special Events
February
In February, as many as 6,000 runners from 50 states and 40 countries participate in
the Las Vegas Marathon and Half Marathon, 702-876-3380.
March
The King of the Beach Invitational pro beach volleyball event brings the best
players in the world to a makeshift beach at Las Vegas’ Hard Rock Hotel each March,
310-448-1822.
April
April draws the finest in jazz to Vegas for the City of Lights Jazz Festival, 702-
798-6405. In Laughlin, April is time for both the Laughlin Stampede Rodeo, 800-
227-5254, which comes complete with dancing and barbecuing, and the annual
Laughlin River Run/Harley Days, 800-227-5245, which brings thousands of hogs
and their riders to town.
May
The convergence of Las Vegas’ Native American, Western and Mexican influences are
celebrated in its festivals. May is the busiest month, hosting cowboy-themed
Helldorado Days, 702-870-1221; Cinco de Mayo festivities at Freedom Park,
702-631-7000; and the Snow Mountain Pow Wow, 702-386-3926, a confluence
of Southern Paiute, Navaho and Mojave peoples. The annual River Days and
Celebrity Water Challenge, 800-227-5245, are held in Laughlin at the end of the
month.
July
The Fourth of July brings the Boulder City Damboree, 702-293-9256, to town.
Later in the month, Las Vegas plays host to the International Food Festival, 702-
898-6565.
August
In August, the International Black Heritage Festival, 702-454-1212, takes place
in Vegas, while Boulder City hosts the Good Old Summertime celebration, 702-
293-2034.
September
The Las Vegas Mariachi Festival, 800-637-1006, blows in, along with the Best in
the Desert race all the way to Reno, 702-457-5775. The Rattlin’ Rails Handcar
Races, 702-293-4857, take place in Boulder City.
October
Art in the Park, 702-293-1611, comes to Boulder City and the picturesque
RiverFlight, 702-452-8066, a three-day balloon rally, floats into Laughlin. Another
balloon festival, the Las Vegas Classic, 702-434-0848, also takes place in October.
December
December in Las Vegas brings the annual Holiday Festival, 702-687-5777, to
downtown, the Parade of Lights, 702-457-2797, to the waters of Lake Mead, and
the National Finals Rodeo, 702-895-3900, to the campus of UNLV.

Adventures
 On Foot
Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area
From any point in Las Vegas Valley, rising peaks in three directions beckon the
hiker and climber. To the west, the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, run
by the Bureau of Land Management at the foot of the Spring Mountains, is only 35
minutes from the Strip, but a world away from the glitz and grime of downtown.

This area is prone to brain-draining heat in the summer, teeth-chattering cold in the
winter and flashfloods the rest of the year, so take extra precautions when
adventuring here.

Red Rock attracts free climbers, sport climbers and boulder-hoppers from
across the world who come to scale the hundreds of routes up the soft Aztec
sandstone – so many, in fact, that chalk marks are becoming visual eyesores in some
areas. The area gets only four inches of rain a year, so chalk often stays put for
months. Be sure to practice leave-no-trace climbing.
With upwards of 800 designated climbing routes, Red Rock has become to
climbers what Moab, Utah, is to mountain bikers. Off the Red Rock Scenic Loop,
Sandstone Quarry provides a starting point for some of the best advanced climbs,
especially in winter months. Head west from the parking area and be sure to look out
for sport cragging climbs such as Running Man (5.11b), Graveyard Waltz (5.11+),
Stratocaster (5.12a), The Choad Warrior (5.12c) and Just Shut Up and Climb
(5.11). On the loop three miles beyond the quarry, White Rock Spring is the
springboard to Angel Food Wall and Tunnel Vision’s (5.7) crag and mixed climbing
walls. At nearby Willow Springs, the Lost Creek Trail leads to an excellent
bouldering and one-pitch area. Highlights include Rages Edges Clif (5.8), Sheep
Trail (5.9), Chicken Eruptus (5.10) and Bighorn Buttress (5.11).
Some of the best aided climbing in the area is found out of the Pine Creek
Trail parking lot. At the end of a 90-minute approach, Crimson Chrysalis (5.9) has
1,200 feet of bolt climbing with eight rappels, while nearby Cloud Tower (5.11d)
offers more advanced routes. One of the classic wall climbs in Red Rock is located in
Oak Creek Canyon. A one-hour approach is rewarded with Levitation (5.11). Other
routes include Solar Slab (5.6), Rainbow Buttress (5.8) and Eagle Dance (5.10 or
5.12).
 For more information, consult the Bible of local climbers, The Red Rocks of
Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste, published by the American Alpine Club. Another
excellent source is Climbers Guide to North American Rock Climbs, Volume 1 by John
Harlin III, Chockstone Press.
The 13-mile paved loop road that begins at the visitor center just off Nevada
159 leads to half a dozen trailheads. About seven miles from the visitor center, the
Willow Spring Picnic Area is the starting point for the La Madre Spring Trail, an
easy six-mile round-trip. Head up Rock Gap Road and turn right at an unsigned fork
just after crossing the wash. Following the fork, the trail passes under pinyon and
juniper pine, ending at a small dam and the spring, where bighorn sheep and other
wildlife can be spotted. A more difficult 10-mile round-trip to the top of the
Escarpment leaves Willow Springs Picnic Area on Rock Gap Road. At the
aforementioned fork, turn left and head up Red Rock Canyon about five miles. The
3,000-foot elevation gain provides well-earned views of the Red Rock Escarpment.
Narrow Pine Creek Canyon Trail begins 11 miles from the visitor center and heads
away from the road. The trail climbs gently within earshot of gurgling Pine Creek,
which feeds the tall conifers that stand out strikingly amid the greasewood and cholla
cactus. Stomping toward the cool recesses of the canyon, watch for Horace Wilson’s
basement, all that remains of his 1920s homestead. After a flat 2½ miles the trail
dead ends in a ravine filled with Toyota-sized boulders.
There are also guided horseback rides offered in the area. See Outfitters, page 41.
The Spring Mountains
Northwest of Las Vegas the Spring Mountains rise to almost 12,000 feet,
providing dozens of alpine escapes where temperatures are usually 20-30° lower
than in the blistering valley. Near the western terminus of Nevada 157, the
granddaddy of Vegas hikes begins. The South Loop Trail, 17 miles round-trip, starts
up Echo Canyon through an avalanche chute where somehow a few glorious aspens
have survived the annual onslaught of snow. The trail switchbacks time and again,
gaining 3,000 feet in four miles, toward a ridge at 11,000 feet. From here it’s two flat
miles through alpine meadows – a perfect place to camp-before another final climb
toward Charleston Peak, elevation 11,918 feet, to savor the 300-mile views.
An equally inspiring hike follows Cathedral Rock Trail up Mazie Canyon.
Through ponderosa pine and wildflowers, the trail climbs 1.4 miles, gaining 1,000 feet
to a saddle. A right turn heads to the dizzying edge of Cathedral Rock and
spectacular views of Kyle Canyon.
Just before the end of Nevada 157 in nearby Lee Canyon, Echo Road cuts
right and leads to the Trail Canyon trailhead. Beginning on a dirt road, the trail
passes aspen and mountain mahogany, covering two miles and gaining 1,500 feet to
Cockscomb Ridge. From there it’s possible to turn left and take North Loop Trail
to Charleston Peak, or continue seven miles to Nevada 158 if you’ve set up a car
shuttle.

Even though these hikes begin less than an hour from the Strip, they
shouldn’t be considered weekend strolls. Never take these altitudes lightly;
conditions can be as unpredictable as they are unforgiving to a hiker unprepared for
rapid weather changes, thunderstorms and snow. For trail information and weather
and safety updates, contact the US Forest Service, 702-873-8800 or 702-872-
7098.

At lower elevations, Mountain T Ranch, 702-656-8025 offers horseback

riding tours in the foothills and canyons for anyone over age seven. A 90-minute ride
is $20 per person.
Valley of Fire State Park
In Valley of Fire State Park northeast of Vegas, the easy three-mile round-trip
to Fire Canyon and Silica Dome begins just off the road 1½ miles north of the
visitors center. The White Domes Trail branches left after 200 yards, while the main
trail continues to a viewpoint overlooking Fire Canyon to the south. To the northwest,
the Sheep Creek Range soars 10,000 feet above the desert, while the Virgin
Mountains rise 8,000 feet into the northeastern sky.
The Historic Railroad Trail
On the southeast side of Las Vegas Valley near Boulder City, the Historic
Railroad Trail begins near the Alan Bible Visitor Center at the intersection of US 93
and Nevada 166. The hike runs five miles round-trip out and back on an old railroad
right-of-way. Additional Lake Mead-area hiking information is available at the visitor
center.
The Newberry Mountains
North of Laughlin the Newberry Mountains rise 5,600 feet above Christmas
Tree Pass. A scramble up Spirit Mountain begins by driving west six miles on
Nevada 163 from Laughlin. Turn right at the Christmas Tree Pass sign, go 6.2 miles,
turn right, and park at the end of the road. From the trailhead it’s two miles and a
lung-burning 2,000-foot elevation gain to the peak. Bruce Grubbs, in The Hikers
Guide to Nevada, Falcon Press Publishing, outlines the easiest route. Climb northward
up the slope, heading for the northernmost outcropping. Just south of this outcrop,
climb a gully to reach a ridge. Head west until this ridge hits the north-south-running
summit ridge, then go northwest to another plateau. Stay below the northern peaks,
ascending northwest. Go around the southern ends of the outcroppings, then up a
gully to a point just below the summit, which is marked by a post.
Hiking & Climbing Outfitters
Guided hiking, camping or climbing trips can be arranged through the following
outfitters.
Las Vegas
Escape the City Streets, 8221 West Charleston Boulevard, Las Vegas 89117, 702-
596-2953.
Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, PO Box 80875, Las Vegas, 89180, 702-223-2176.
Rocks & Ropes of Las Vegas, 3065 East Patrick Avenue, Suite 4, 702-434-3388.
Rocky Trails, PO Box 371324, Las Vegas, 89137, 888-86-ROCKY.
Sports & Adventure Tours, 3557 South Valley View Boulevard, 702-364-8687.
Climbers can hone their skills indoors at Powerhouse Rock Gym, 8201 West
Charleston Boulevard, 702-254-5604.
Red Rock
Sky’s the Limit, HCR 33, PO Box 1, 89124, 702-363-4533 or 800-733-7597.

Horse & Wagon Trip Outfitters

Horseback trail rides can be arranged through the following outfitters:
Las Vegas
2R Riding Stables, 1400 Desert Hills Drive, 702-256-7433.
Silver State Old West Tours, PO Box 19210, Las Vegas, 89132, 702-798-6565.
Cowboy Trail Rides, 1211 South Eastern Avenue, 702-387-2457.
Wagons West, 702-875-1978, can arrange a covered wagon trip.
Outdoor Equipment

Quality outdoor equipment, maps and information can be found at the following local
retailers:
Las Vegas
Adventure Outfitting, 2250 South Rainbow Boulevard, 702-252-7114.
Desert Outfitting, 2101 South Decatur Boulevard, 702-362-7177.
Desert Rock Sports, 8201 West Charleston Boulevard, 702-254-1143.
Hahn’s World of Surplus, 2908 East Lake Mead Boulevard, 702-649-6819.
Native Nevadan Sporting Goods, 617 Hoover Avenue, 702-383-0838.
Peak Sports, 4065 East Patrick Lane, 702-458-8870.

 On Wheels
Biking The Cottonwood Valley
There are literally hundreds of opportunities for mountain biking in Las Vegas
Valley. The trails in Cottonwood Valley, however, are the first to be set aside for fat
tire mavens. To get there from the southern end of Las Vegas, take Nevada 160 (Blue
Diamond Road) about 15 miles west toward the Spring Mountains. At mile post 17,
take Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road .6 mile to a dirt road. Armed with Suzanne
Shelp’s Las Vegas Single Track Gourmet (Chockstone Press), a combination
waterproof map/guide to 15 of the valley’s best rides, park here and pedal west
toward the peaks on the Cottonwood Valley Race Course, a six-mile loop. A
double track soon appears on the right. Take this up and over a knoll and follow the
trail as it turns right toward Power Line Road. At the road, turn left and ride until you
reach a rock cairn, which marks your trail heading south across the desert. Take this
until you reach a double track, turn right, and pump uphill. Just beyond the summit
make a left on a road to an intersection, make a quick right and head downhill. After
beginning another climb, turn left at the next intersection and ride until reaching a
large pile of rocks. Go left here, flying downhill and then up to another road. Turn
right, cross Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road and look for a trail heading left. Take this
through a parking lot and into a wash, scanning for a cairn on the left. Follow this
marker out of the wash and back to the trailhead.
For a more challenging excursion, the 14-mile Dead Horse Loop begins at
the Cottonwood Valley trailhead. But instead of turning left at the large pile of rocks,
you turn right toward a gradual climb and pedal toward a road. Turn right, go to the
next intersection, turn left to another intersection and turn right, heading uphill. Ride
until you see a cairn on the left, then follow that trail to the top of Cottonwood Pass.
Head downhill, following the trail right and into a wash which comes out on
Cottonwood/Goodsprings Road. Search for a cairn on the right and follow that trail to
the summit of Wilson Pass. Take a trail northward leaving the pass until you hit a
road. Turn right and ride until you see the trail on the left. Follow this to the top of
Red Valley, zoom downhill to the fork, turn right to reach the bottom of the
Cottonwood Valley Race Course and return to the trailhead.
For a tamer road trip, the paved 13-mile Red Rock Loop begins just off
Nevada 159 at the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area visitor center.
Because the status of any trail can change at any time, contact the Bureau of Land
Management, 4765 Vegas Drive, PO Box 26589, Las Vegas, NV 89126,  702-647-
5000, before heading out.

Biking Outfitters
Following is a list of local companies that rent bikes or offer guided tours.
Las Vegas
Bikes USA, 1539 North Eastern Avenue, 702-642-2453.
Downhill Bicycle Tours, 7934 Cadenza Lane, 702-897-8287.
Escape the City Streets, 8221 West Charleston Boulevard, 702-596-2953.
R&R Cycling, 3310 South Nellis Boulevard, 702-451-9586.
Ski Chalet, 4503 West Sahara Avenue, 702-252-8077.
Eaglerider Motorcyles rents Harleys and other street bikes. 4600 West Tropicana
Avenue, 702-876-8687.
Blue Diamond

Blue Diamond Bicycles, 16 Cottonwood Drive, 702-875-4500

Jeeping The Desert National Wildlife Refuge

There are also plenty of 4WD trails in Las Vegas Valley, including journeys into
the Desert National Wildlife Refuge, 702-646-3401. Because flash floods alter the
terrain of trails seasonally, be sure to contact the refuge office before heading out.
One of the well-mapped but still quite remote roads is the Bitter Springs Back
Country Byway, the remnants of the Old Spanish Trail used by explorers and
missionaries as far back as 1776. The byway is reachable on the eastern outskirts of
Las Vegas via Nevada 147 (Lake Mead Boulevard) in the Sunrise Mountain Natural
Area. The byway heads northeast past Gypsum Cave and the remains of abandoned
mines toward Bitter Ridge. The ridge is a prime example of a tilt fault, rising
hundreds of feet from the desert floor. The road passes the multicolored sandstone
hills of Buffington Pockets and the entrance to Hidden Valley, site of many ancient
pictographs and petroglyphs. At about the 10-mile mark, the byway forks. Turn left to
return to US 15, right to continue northeast on the Old Spanish Trail 15 miles to a
paved road. Here the options are left to US 15 or right 10 miles to Valley of Fire
State Park.

This is rugged country with no services. Drivers are strongly urged to carry
emergency supplies and a cellular phone or CB radio.

For details, maps and more information on backcountry byways, contact the Las
Vegas BLM office, 4765 West Vegas Drive, 702-646-8800.
Jeep Tour Operators
The following local operators offer motorized off-road tours:
Las Vegas
Jeep Tours, 2810 South Highland Drive, 702-796-9355.
Old West Territory Tours, 702-454-5555.
Rebel Adventure Tours, 713 East Ogden Street, Suite B, Las Vegas, 89101, 702-
380-6969.

 On Water
Las Vegas
It has got to be the wildest fly-fishing experience in the West. It begins, of all places,
just off the Las Vegas Strip at the Rio Suite Hotel & Casino, 3700 Flamingo Road. The
Rio's Masquerade Village shopping mall is the home of Reel Outfitters,  888-REEL-
RIO, a tackle shop which makes all other tackle shops seem like chump change. Fly-
tying master Robert "Granny" Granstrom, an avid angler for more than 50 years, is
on the premises, tying and offering advice and plenty of top-flight equipment. The
shop also holds the most unusual casting classes in the state on the shores of the
glistening, crystal-clear hotel pool. Classes are held Thursday through Sunday, 8 AM
to 11 AM. Since the pool opens to guests at 10 AM, the last hour of class covers knot-
tying and fly-fishing tackle. Classes run $60 and 24 hours advance notice is required.
Reel Outfitters also provides guided excursions to Lake Mead. A guide and boat are
included for $100 per day.
Rental equipment is extra, and two- to three-days notice is required. But the ultimate
fly-fishing trip is a stretch-limo ride to a 2,500-acre ranch in Utah. Expeditions include
the services of a guide for every three anglers, meals and overnight lodging for $449.
Reel Outfitters also has a full-service travel agency that can arrange fishing trips to
just about anywhere.
Lake Mead
Besides creating cheap supplies of water and power, Hoover Dam also formed
Lake Mead and provided nine million visitors a year with a recreation jackpot. Boat
and watercraft rentals are available at the marinas off Nevada 166 (Lakeshore
Road), Boulder Beach, Lake Mead Resort & Marina and Las Vegas Bay, and
also at Calville Bay off Nevada 167 (Northshore Road). (See below, under Boating
Outfitters.) Swimming, water skiing, jet skiing, sailing and houseboating are favorite
pastimes on the 110-mile-long lake, while anglers seek striped bass (the record fish
weighed more than 50 pounds), largemouth bass and trout.
Diving has increased in popularity at underwater relics like the Hoover Dam
asphalt factory and the Mormon village of St. Thomas. The diving trail at North
Boulder Beach lies in a protected area. For details, visit Divers’ Discount Supply,
4305 South Industrial Boulevard, 800-34-SCUBA. The expert staff is available seven
days a week, offering professional advice, instruction and gear.
The Overton Arm of the Virgin River
Northeast of Las Vegas, the Overton Arm of the Virgin River, about three miles
across at its widest point, flows into Lake Mead. Off Nevada 167, Echo Bay offers all
the amenities and rentals. An intriguing boating option is to power five miles north of
tiny Overton Beach to the Virgin River Confluence, where the Virgin and Muddy rivers
wind among rugged canyons and hidden inlets that are home to desert bighorns,
peregrine falcons and even flamingos. Forever Resorts, 800-255-5561, with
locations on Lake Mead and Lake Mohave, rents houseboats, powerboats and
cruisers.

Note that boating on Lake Mead can be extremely hazardous when the desert
winds kick up. Swimming and diving can also be dangerous, particularly near cliffs,
where people lose their lives every year jumping into the lake.

The Colorado River

South of Lake Mead on the business end of Hoover Dam, the once angry
Colorado River is now docile enough to allow float trips. Boulder City’s Black Canyon
Raft Tours Company, 800-696-RAFT, offers trips from January through November.
Large rafts seating 30-40 people depart from the south side of Hoover Dam on 12-
mile floats through the canyon to Willow Beach. Return transportation is provided by
bus. The cost is about $65 per person.
Lake Mojave
Farther south, the Colorado River flows into narrow Lake Mojave. Near
Laughlin, Lake Mohave Resort & Marina, 702-754-3245, is the local fishing and
boating hub. The Mojave boasts excellent trout fishing in cooler months. In Laughlin
most of the hotel-casinos and various outfitters rent watercraft.
Boating Outfitters
Marinas and tour operators near Southern Nevada’s lakes and rivers:
Boulder City
Down River Outfitters, PO Box 61235, 89006, 702-293-1190.
Lake Mead Cruises, PO Box 62465, 89006, 702-293-6180.
Lake Mead Resort & Marina, 322 Lake Shore Road, 702-293-3784 or 800-752-
9669.
 Lake Mead
Adventure Outfitting, 2550 South Rainbow Boulevard, Las Vegas, 89102,  702-
252-7114.
Calville Bay Resort, PO Box 100, HCR 30, Las Vegas, 89124, 702-565-8958.
Las Vegas Bay Marina, 4290 Boulder Highway, 702-565-9111.
Sunrise Adventures Tours and Rentals, 5841 East Lake Mead Boulevard, 702-
437-9283.
Tom’s Water Skiing, 702-433-3263.
Virgin River
Action Watercraft Rental, Overton Beach Marina, Overton, 89040,  702-564-5452
Echo Bay Resort & Marina, Overton, 89040, 702-394-4000.
Lake Mojave
Cottonwood Cove Marina, 1000 Cottonwood Cove, 702-297-1464.
Laughlin
Back Bay Canoes & Kayaks, 1450 Newberry Drive, Bullhead City, AZ, 520-758-
6242.
Fiesta Queen Cruises, PO Box 29279, Laughlin, 89029, 800-228-9825.
Laughlin River Tours, PO Box 29279, 89028, 702-298-1047
Fishing Outfitters
For fishing supplies and angling information, contact:
Las Vegas
Blue Lake Bait & Tackle, 5485 East Lake Mead Boulevard, 702-452-8299.
Clearwater Flyfishing, 3031 East Charleston Boulevard, 702-388-1022.
Sandy Cove Bait & Sporting Goods, 5225 East Lake Mead Boulevard, 702-459-
2080.
Henderson
Rainbows End Bass & Gas, 1330 East Lake Mead Drive, 702-564-5660.
Sunset Bait & Tackle, 1000 East Lake Mead Drive, 702-565-0696.
Fishing Guides
Las Vegas
Donoho’s Guide Service, 702-451-4004.
Karen Jones, 702-871-1399.
Henderson
Bill Spellman, 161 East Rancho Drive, 702-564-1558.
Jim Gof, 1500 Palomino Drive, 702-565-8396.
HB Fishing Guide Service, 68 Mallory Road, 702-565-7583.

 In The Air
With its proximity to the man-made wonder of Hoover Dam and the natural
splendors of Grand Canyon, Arizona and Zion, Utah, Las Vegas has more air tour
operators than any other city in the nation. Trips range from one-hour night flights
over the Strip to day-long excursions to the Grand Canyon, complete with guided
ground tours and meals.
Two issues to keep in mind are noise pollution and safety. The National Park
Service has moved to limit where and how low tour operators can fly over the Grand
Canyon region, citing growing noise problems. Decide whether you want to
exacerbate this environmental concern.
Tour operators aren’t held to the same safety standards as commercial airlines, so
check with local chambers of commerce and ask blunt questions about safety
records before flying.

Hot air balloons are a common sight over Las Vegas Valley, particularly during
the Las Vegas Balloon Classic, 702-434-0848, ext. 3800, held every October at
Silver Bowl Park. With commercial balloon tours, check the operator’s safety records
and consult weather reports.
Even more memorable, however, is a dive off the 175-foot high platform at
A.J. Hackett Bungy, 810 Circus Circus Drive, 702-385-4321. The company claims
more than 500,000 trouble-free plunges and offers an optional splashdown in a pool
of water. The platform is open Sunday through Friday, noon to 9 PM, Saturday until
midnight. A jump is $59, $20 for each additional jump on the same day.
Flight Outfitters
The following list of air travel and tour operators is meant only to provide information
and does not constitute any endorsement. Check safety records and certification
before flying with anyone.
Las Vegas
Air Nevada Airlines, 800-634-6377.
Air Vegas Airlines, 800-255-7474.
D&R Balloons, 3275 Rosanna Street, Las Vegas, NV 89117.
Eagle Canyon Airlines, 800-446-4584.
Heli USA, 800-359-8727.
King Airelines, 800-216-8330.
Las Vegas Airlines, 800-634-6851.
Las Vegas Flyaway Indoor Skydiving, 200 Convention Center Drive, Las Vegas,
89109,  702-731-4768
Las Vegas Helicopters, 3612 South Las Vegas Boulevard, 702-736-0013.
Las Vegas Skydiving Center, PO Box 19629, Jean Airport, Jean, NV 89019, 702-
877-1010.
Scenic Airlines, 2705 Airport Drive, 800-535-4448.
Skydive Las Vegas, 806 Buchanan Street, #115-200, Boulder City, 89005, 800-8-
SKYDIV.
Sundance Helicopters, 241 East Reno Avenue, 702-597-5505 or 800-653-1881.
Ultimate Balloon Adventures, 702-221-9199, Web site
www.ultimateballoonadven.com.
Boulder City
SkyDive Las Vegas, 806 Buchanan Street, 702-293-1860.

 On Snow
Largely ignored by the tourists, the quaint Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard
Resort, 702-385-2SKI, often enjoys uncrowded slopes and excellent conditions. Set
at a base elevation of 8,500 feet at the end of Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon, the resort
offers three chairlifts and 10 runs. The slopes are open from November until (usually)
April. An all-day lift ticket runs $27. Rentals and free transportation to and from the
hill are available in Las Vegas at Ski Lee Rentals, 2395 North Rancho Road, 702-
646-0008.
For more serious snow, check out southern Utah’s Brian Head Resort, 800-
272-7426, located about 180 miles northeast of Vegas off US 15. Brian Head offers
six lifts on two mountains and full amenities.
Where To Stay & Eat
 Accommodations
Las Vegas
With more hotel rooms than any other city on the planet – well, over 100,000
as of this writing – and nine of the 10 largest hotels in the world, getting a cheap
room in Vegas would seem easier than blowing a roll of quarters at a one-armed
bandit. But somehow, it seems, the old notion of pulling into town on a Friday night
with no reservation and grabbing a $20 room on the Strip has become part of
Nevada’s romanticized past.
Many hotels, even behemoths like the 5,000-room MGM Grand, are booked
solid on weekends. While rates remain lower than at comparable hotels in big cities,
be sure to reserve as early as possible for the best deals. After all, on any given day
you’re competing for space with an average of more than 80,000 visitors.
Look for coupons and discounts in your local newspaper and, if possible, travel to
Vegas Monday through Thursday, when rates are lower and lines are shorter. Above
all, avoid Vegas in late November when the annual Computer Dealers Expo
(COMDEX) hits town, luring 200,000 techies to Sin City. All they do is take up space,
clog up traffic and play the nickel slots.
For a nostalgic trip into Vegas’ past – and a slightly better chance of getting a
room on short notice – choose one of the downtown hotels near Fremont Street that
are holdovers from the 1930s. The downside to a few of the downtown streets is that
they border some questionable neighborhoods. Take a close look around before
choosing a hotel. The casino at the Las Vegas Club, 18 East Fremont Street, 702-
385-1664, $-$$$, opened just after gambling was legalized in 1931. The hotel tower
was built in the 1980s. The oldest original hotel-casino in the state is the El Cortez,
600 East Fremont Street, 702-385-5200, $-$$, opened in 1941 at Fremont and 6th
streets. The place was once part-owned by infamous gangster Bugsy Siegel, who
built the first casino resort, the Flamingo, before being gunned down in Los Angeles
in 1947. The Four Queens, 202 East Fremont Street, 702-385-4011, $$-$$$, was
opened in 1965 and has 700 rooms, while the nearby Jackie Gaughan’s Plaza, 1
Main Street, 702-386-2110, $-$$, has 1,037 rooms.
The Golden Nugget, 129 East Fremont Street, 702-385-7111, $$-$$$, is a bit more
luxurious and boasts the world’s largest publicly displayed gold nugget – 61 pounds.
If staring at wealth is your thing, also check out Binion’s Horseshoe, 128 East
Fremont Street, 702-382-1600, $-$$. Opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny
Binion, the ‘Shoe’s free photo of you in front of their display of $1 million cash is the
Vegas souvenir.
On the Strip (Las Vegas Boulevard), the adventure is finding your way to the front
desk through the maze of slot machines and video poker islands. If you’ve ever
wondered where all this money goes, you owe it to yourself to stay in one of Vegas’ -
mega-resort hotel-casinos at least once. One of the (relatively) old standbys is the
Las Vegas Hilton, 3000 Paradise Road, 702-732-5111, $$-$$$$. Built in 1964 two
blocks off the Strip, it still has all the accoutrements of a first-class establishment.
The movie Rainman was shot here. Down the street, across from the Fashion Show
Mall, is Treasure Island at The Mirage, 3300 Las Vegas Boulevard South, 702-894-
7111, $$-$$$$, which features a live-action battle between a full-scale British man-o’-
war and a pirate ship six times a night.
Next door is the Island’s big sister, The Mirage, 702-791-7171, 3400 Las Vegas
Boulevard South, $$-$$$$, where everyone flocks to see the tropical paradise,
magicians Siegfried and Roy’s white Bengal tigers and the dolphin enclosure in the
back. It’s pretty sad to see these animals stuck in a hotel, however. The faux volcano,
which erupts every 15 minutes after dark, is a crowd-pleaser.
Opened in 1966 but still oozing class, Caesars Palace, 3570 Las Vegas Boulevard
South, 702-731-7110, $$$-$$$$, now seems almost understatedly elegant – even
with its 18 fountains and two-story statue of Caesar Augustus – compared to the
Strip’s brash newcomers. South of here, the young upstarts, Monte Carlo, 3770 Las
Vegas Boulevard South, 702-740-NYNY, $$-$$$$, and New York, New York, 3790
Las Vegas Boulevard South, 702-740-NYNY, $$-$$$$, dominate the Strip. Even by
Vegas standards, New York, New York is out there, way out there, featuring uncanny
replicas of the Statue of Liberty and the Big Apple skyline, all surrounded by a
gigantic steel rollercoaster that speeds within a few yards of wide-eyed tourists.
Across the street is the green giant, the MGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas Boulevard
South, 702-891-1111, $$-$$$$, positively sedate with its 5,005 rooms and a 33-acre
theme park amid these new “destination resorts.” At the southern terminus of the
Strip the Egyptian-themed Luxor, 3900 Las Vegas Boulevard South, 702-262-4555,
$$-$$$$, has 2,500 rooms. Just follow the 40-billion candlepower light beaming out of
the top of the 350-foot black pyramid.
At this book goes to press, two spectacular hotel-casinos are nearing completion on
the Strip. Paris Casino Resort will sport a 55-story replica of the Eiffel Tower, while
Bellagio will boast 3,000 rooms and an Italian village surrounding a 12-acre lake.
On the less expensive end of the spectrum, Las Vegas is also home to the King 8
Hotel, 3330 West Tropicana Avenue, 800-634-3988, $-$$$, three Motel 6s, $-$$,
and literally hundreds of other small motor inns. For a complete list of Las Vegas
lodging, contact the Chamber of Commerce, 702-735-1616.
On the outskirts of Vegas, Bonnie Springs Motel, 702-875-4400, offers rustic
lodging on the west side of the valley near Spring Mountain Ranch State Park. In the
Spring Mountains, the Mt. Charleston Hotel, 702-872-5500, feels a bit more like a
quiet alpine lodge (despite the new golf course nearby) than the cabins at Mt.
Charleston Resort, 702-872-5408, set at 7,800 feet but next to a busy restaurant
parking lot.

A final note: While almost anything goes in Las Vegas, prostitution is still illegal in the
city and all of Clark County, contrary to popular belief. Prostitution is legal only in
counties with populations under 400,000, which eliminates Reno, too. You wouldn’t
know it by looking at the 82 pages of the Las Vegas Yellow Pages that are dedicated
to cheesy ads for “adult entertainers,” but paying for sex is against the law and
unsafe. None of the “entertainers” are tested for HIV or sexually transmitted
diseases as are the women in legal brothels.

Laughlin
For the most part, Laughlin’s hotel-casinos are brighter, more airy and easier
and cheaper to book than their counterparts in Vegas, but don’t count on that for
long. Laid out along the mile-long Strip paralleling the Colorado River, Laughlin and
its unique brand of hospitality attract some 500,000 visitors a month and climbing.
The Riverside Resort Hotel, 1650 Casino Drive, 702-298-2535, $-$$$, is
Don Laughlin’s original establishment, featuring a movie theater and large
showroom. Nearby, the Flamingo Hilton, 1900 South Casino Drive, 702-298-5111,
$-$$, opened in 1990, offers 2,000 rooms. The Edgewater, 2000 South Casino Drive,
702-298-2453, $-$$$, has 1,500 rooms, while the Colorado Belle, 2100 South
Casino Drive, 702-298-4000, $-$$, brings its Mississippi steamboat theme right to
the edge of the river. The Ramada Express, 2121 South Casino Drive, 702-298-
4200, $-$$, sports a railroad theme, while the Golden Nugget, 2300 South Casino
Drive, 702-298-7111, $-$$$, and Harrah’s, 2900 South Casino Drive, 702-298-
4600, $-$$$, seem a tad more upscale than the average Laughlin gaming house.
For a complete list of Laughlin lodging, contact the Chamber of Commerce,
702-298-2214.
 Restaurants
Las Vegas
The gathering place for gourmands from around the world, Las Vegas is known
more for its 24-hour, all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffets than memorable dining
experiences. After a few meals at most of these troughs, you won’t wonder why pit
bosses give away so many meals. An excellent buffet, however, can actually be found
at the Rio Suite Hotel, 3700 West Flamingo Road, 702-252-7777.
Most of the hotels do offer great food in at least one expensive restaurant. On
the Strip, Andiamo, 702-732-5111, in the Las Vegas Hilton, serves upscale Italian
fare. Emeril’s, 702-891-7374, and Gatsby’s, 702-891-7337, both at the MGM
Grand, are redefining the Vegas culinary experience. Emeril’s serves Creole with flair
and Gatsby’s offers a unique, and very expensive, Eurasian mélange. At the Flamingo
Hilton, Hamada, 3555 Las Vegas Boulevard South, 702-733-3111, is a regular stop
for well-heeled Japanese tourists seeking authentically prepared meals. To really dine
UPtown, try the very pricey Top of the World at Stratosphere, 2000 Las Vegas
Boulevard South, 702-380-7711, which rests atop the highest free-standing tower
(135 stories) in the United States. Downtown at the Four Queens, classy Hugo’s
Cellar, 202 Fremont Street, 702-385-4011, has been many locals’ “special place”
for Continental cuisine for years.
Off the main drags, Café Michelle, 1350 East Flamingo Road, 702-735-
8686, offers fine Mediterranean cuisine at moderate prices. Andre’s, 401 South 6th
Street, 702-385-5016, is perhaps Vegas’ finest French restaurant. Chin’s, 3200 Las
Vegas Boulevard South, 702-733-8899, while moderately pricey, is the most popular
Chinese place in town.
For satisfying American favorites, Phillip’s Supper House, 4545 West
Sahara Avenue, 702-873-5222, serves prime eastern beef and fresh seafood. An
impressive slice of protein can also be found at the Golden Steer, 308 West Sahara
Avenue, 702-384-4470. For a Latin taste, Yolie’s Brazilian Steak House, 3900
Paradise Road, Suite Z, 702-794-0700, boasts a deliciously eclectic mix of meat and
fish.
The Green Shack, 2504 East Fremont, 702-383-0007, is the oldest
restaurant in the city, having opened in 1932. Chicken is the house specialty. Fong’s,
2021 East Charleston Boulevard, 702-382-1644, has served Mandarin cuisine at this
site since 1955. ‘Round midnight (and beyond) head for Mr. Lucky’s 24/7 at the
Hard Rock Hotel, 4455 Paradise Road, 702-693-5000, which, as the name
implies, serves hip, energetic comfort food 24 hours a day, seven days a week.
Laughlin
In Laughlin the selection is a bit more mundane, although the Lodge, 2700
South Casino Drive in the Gold River Hotel, 702-298-2242, serves fine steaks and
seafood. Another steakhouse of distinction is William Fisk’s, 2900 South Casino
Drive at Harrah’s Del Rio, 702-298-4600.
 Camping
Besides the numerous RV parks scattered around Las Vegas, the closest
developed campgrounds are 20 miles west of the city in the Red Rock Canyon
National Conservation Area, 702-363-1921. Three miles past the visitors center
on Nevada 159 is the turnoff to Oak Creek campground, which has 15 primitive sites
set amid desert scrubland at the foot of limestone and sandstone peaks.
Northwest about 35 miles from the Strip, campgrounds abound in the Spring
Mountains National Recreation Area, in the shadow of Mt. Charleston. Near the
end of Nevada 157, Kyle Canyon, Hilltop and Fletcher View campgrounds offer a
total of 68 sites nestled between the pines alongside a seasonal creek. At the end of
Nevada 156 in Lee Canyon, McWilliams and Dolomite campgrounds offer 71 more
sites. All five campgrounds have piped water. The elevation here ranges between
7,000 and 8,400 feet, so be prepared for extreme weather. For information, call 702-
873-8800.
Primitive camping is also available in the Desert National Wildlife Refuge
north of Las Vegas. For information, call 702-646-3401. In Valley of Fire State
Park, 50 miles northeast of Vegas via US 15 and Nevada 169, the two adjacent
campgrounds have a total of 51 sites. 702-397-2088.
To the east of Vegas, Lake Mead has plenty of camping options. Moving north
from Boulder City, there’s Boulder Beach, Hemenway and Las Vegas Bay with a
total of more than 400 sites. On the north shore, Calville Bay has 80 sites. On the
Virgin River to the north, Echo Bay provides 153 tent and RV sites. For information
on all five locations, call 702-293-8906
Near Laughlin, most of the developed camping is on the Arizona side of the
Colorado River. There are 172 sites for tents or RVs at Katherine’s Landing, 520-
754-3272, north of town on Lake Mojave. Across the river from the Strip, 355-acre
Davis County Camp Park, 520-754-4606, has room for 171 RVers and tenters. The
only camping in town is at sparse Sportsman’s Park at the western end of Davis
Dam.
Reno-Tahoe
Territory
At the heart of this region, the city of Reno is the launchpad for a wider variety of
adventures than can be found in any other part of the state. Reno, still “The Biggest
Little City in the World” after all these years, offers all the diversions of its grown-up
sister, Las Vegas, but with a decidedly outdoorsy feel. The Truckee River, which flows
through – and sometimes floods – downtown, offers a bucolic retreat from the neon.
Reno-Tahoe International Airport is growing rapidly to serve the more than one million
adventure seekers who visit the area annually.
“Lake Tahoe is king of them all,” legendary naturalist John Muir wrote, “not only in
size but in the surpassing beauty of its shores and waters.” Certainly Lake Tahoe, the
largest alpine lake in North America, crowns this region of northwestern Nevada. The
Tahoe Basin is regularly listed among the top outdoor destinations in the country, and
for good reason. With a surface elevation of more than 7,000 feet, the area attracts
hikers and bikers to the Tahoe Rim Trail and other pine-shaded paths in warmer
months, as well as boaters and anglers to its crystalline waters. Some of the most
inspiring balloon rides in the country are an added bonus. Lake Tahoe Nevada State
Park protects much of the eastern shoreline of the lake from the development and
crowding that can make the California shores seem more like a theme park than a
mountain retreat.
Of course, if the goal is to get away from the get-away-from-it-all crowd in the
campground for a few hours, first-class hotel-casinos glimmer on the southeastern
shore, just east of the California-Nevada border.
In the winter, the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe truly shines. While many of the more
ballyhooed ski resorts in California territory are packed with vacationers, the Nevada
slopes can be relatively quiet, welcoming savvy skiers from all over the world to the
powder of Diamond Peak, Heavenly and Mt. Rose resorts. Cross-country skiing is also
a favorite local pastime.
South of Reno, Washoe Lake State Park, on the shores of Washoe Lake, offers quiet
camping and boating in the shadow of the mighty Sierra Nevadas. Farther south, the
heart of historic Nevada pumps in Carson City, the region’s capital since 1861 and
home to the shining capitol dome. The city is home to the history-minded Talking
House Tour, some of ye oldest publick houses in the state and the Stewart Indian
Museum, which fights to sustain the memory of Nevada’s original inhabitants. Just
south of Carson City, the town of Genoa remains faithful to the history of the pioneers
who first settled this once-God-forsaken area. The place dates back to 1851, while
the well-developed hot springs south of town go back thousands of years before that.
The touristy remnants of the richest mining boom in American history are less than
an hour’s drive east in a small valley that hides Virginia City, where one-of-a-kind
adventures await in an area that prides itself on staying with the way things were 130
years ago. A ride on the restored Virginia & Truckee Railroad is just one retro-
adventure here, where everyone expects Ben, Hoss and Little Joe to come riding in
from the Ponderosa at any moment – and former resident Mark Twain to cover their
arrival for the Territorial Enterprise.
Farther east of Carson City, hikes through both the hills above the famous Comstock
Lode and the remains of a 19th-century US Army outpost, Fort Churchill, are walks
back in time. The Carson River, which meanders – sometimes wet, sometimes not –
through Reno-Tahoe Territory, can provide plenty of water-borne fun amid the sage
and scrub.
About 30 miles north of Reno, meanwhile, lies the true oasis of the northern Great
Basin, Pyramid Lake, a 27-mile-long watering hole that is all that remains of Lake
Lahontan, an ancient, 8,600-square-mile inland sea that once teemed with whale-
sized dinosaurs. Today this mirage-come-true, complete with a 450-foot-high pyramid
rising from its depths, is surrounded by Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation, residents of
which invite visitors to wet a line in search of prized Lahontan cutthroat trout. North
of Pyramid Lake, the sinus-clearing desolation of Nevada’s backcountry abounds in all
its glory. What else would attract speed demons to the infamous dry lakebed called
the Black Rock Desert to attempt world land speed records?
Finally, almost 300 miles north of bustling Lake Tahoe, the Pine Forest Recreation
Area and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge, the latter one of the last homes of the
American pronghorn antelope, are as remote and isolated as they are beautiful.
Touring
Touring in Reno-Tahoe territory begins in Reno, gateway for almost every visitor who
doesn’t drive in across the Sierra Nevadas from northern California. From Reno, US
395 heads south to connect with NV 431, the highway leading west to Lake Tahoe. US
395 continues south to the Washoe Valley and Carson City. From Carson City, US 50
heads west to the shore of Lake Tahoe and east to Virginia City and Lahontan
Reservoir. Pyramid Lake lies north of Reno via NV 445 or NV 447, the latter beginning
in Wadsworth, 33 miles east of Reno via I-80.
 Reno
If Las Vegas is Nevada’s crowning glory, Reno is a little bit more like a diamond in the
rough. Like Vegas, the city continues to grow rapidly, but Reno has somehow
managed to curb, or at least slow, the lust for bigger and better that drives Sin City
South. No, there isn’t a glass pyramid, faux volcano or plastic pirate ship anywhere
on the Reno horizon as this is being written, which seems just fine to many of the
area’s visitors.
Reno is blessed by its location – straddling the gurgling Truckee River and within a
casino-chip’s toss of the towering Sierra Nevadas and Lake Tahoe. The powers that be
seem determined not to press their luck with over-development. Their efforts to
maintain a certain quaintness about their city have paid off more than any jackpot
could.
A good place to start exploring is the River Walk, located on the south banks of the
Truckee between the Sierra Street and Virginia Street bridges. About a block west of
the River Walk is Wingfield Park, actually an island that boasts the Wingfield Park
Amphitheater, which hosts special events in warmer months. Call the Reno-Sparks
Convention and Visitors Authority, 800-FOR-RENO, for a schedule. Take note of
the Virginia Street Bridge, which has spanned the Truckee since 1905 and is near
the site of the first tourist boom in Nevada. In 1852, H.H. Jameson established a
trading post here to serve pioneers on the Emigrant Trail, and in 1859 C.W. Fuller built
an inn and toll bridge to service travelers headed from California to Virginia City. In
1863, Fuller sold his property to Myron Lake, who made enough money from wagon
trains crossing his bridge near this site to kickstart the settlement now known as
Reno.
From here, it’s an easy walk to Reno’s main drag, North Virginia Street, which is
home to nine hotel-casinos within a six-block stretch between 1st Street and 6th
Street. From a historical point of view, the most significant of them may be Harold’s
Club at 2nd and Virginia. If there is a shrine to Nevada’s true cash crop, this is it.
Gambling was legalized in the state in 1931, but it wasn’t until Raymond Smith and
his son Harold entered the picture in downtown Reno with their clean reputations and
clever marketing that gaming became accepted as a mainstream diversion.
Harrah’s, situated behind Harold’s Club at 219 North Center Street, 702-788-3773,
has been at that location since 1946. William Harrah opened the casino nine years
after arriving in Reno.
Since this isn’t the Gambling Guide to Nevada, it’s time to leave the casinos and visit
the National Bowling Stadium and its huge bowling-ball-shaped geodesic dome,
300 North Center Street, 702-334-2600. More than 100 lanes full of pinheads can
bowl here at one time. When arms get tired, the Omnimax movies shown in the dome
are the main attraction.
Reno’s best adventures await away from downtown. On the north side of the city, the
campus of the University of Nevada, 1650 North Virginia Street, boasts three
treasures. Fleischmann Planetarium, 702-784-4812, houses a theater and
telescope. The Nevada Historical Society, 702-688-1190, is one of the best
museums of its kind in the West. And the Keck Minerals Museum, 702-784-4528,
is a must for rockhounds or treasure lovers.
About 10 minutes north of the university, where North Virginia Street hits North
McCarran Boulevard, Rancho San Rafael Park is another in-town highlight. (See
below under On Foot.) The Wilbur D. May Museum and Arboretum, 1502 North
Washington Street, 702-785-5961, are a tribute to this Renaissance man and
philanthropic heir to the May Company fortune. Great Basin Adventure, a nifty
historical theme park, is also located here.
On the northern outskirts of the city, Animal Ark Nature Center, 1265 Deerlodge
Road, 702-969-3111, is a well-known, non-profit haven for orphaned and injured
wildlife, including black bears and kit foxes. The staff welcomes visitors daily, April
through October, but call first for hours. To get there, take US 395 north to Red Rock
Road, turn right, go 11½ miles to Deerlodge Road and turn right.
On the suburban south side of Reno, the National Automobile Museum, 10 South
Lake Street, 702-333-9300, houses one of the world’s best collections, highlighted
by the 1907 Thomas Flyer that won The Great Race from New York to Paris and James
Dean’s 1949 Mercury.

Reno-Tahoe Transportation
Reno-Tahoe International Airport is served by a number of commercial carriers.
Airlines
Air 21, 702-328-6400.
Alaska Airlines, 800-235-9292.
America West Airlines, 800-359-2472.
Canadian Airlines, 800-426-7000.
Delta Air Lines, 800-221-1212.
Delta Connection-Sky West, 800-453-9417.
Northwest Airlines, 800-225-2525.
Reno Air, 800-736-6247.
Southwest Airlines, 800-435-9792.
TriStar Airlines, 800-218-8777.
TWA, 800-221-2000.
United Airlines, 800-241-6522.
Rental Cars
Rental cars are available at the airport and some downtown Reno hotels.
Avis, 800-331-1212.
Budget, 800-527-0700.
Dollar, 800-800-4000.
Enterprise, 800-325-8007.
Hertz, 800-654-3131.
Lloyd’s International, 800-654-7037.
National, 800-CAR-RENT.
Thrifty, 800-367-2277.
Buses
Several bus lines also serve Reno. If you don’t have a car, they are the only way of
reaching many of Nevada’s outlying areas.
Greyhound Lines, 800-231-2222.
K-T Services, 702-882-3375.
No Stress Express, 800-4-SHUTTL.

Information Sources

Greater Reno-Sparks Chamber of Commerce, 405 Marsh Avenue, Reno, NV

89505, 702-686-3030.
Reno/Sparks Indian Colony Tribal Council, 98 Colony Road, Reno, NV 89502,
702-329-2936.
The Reno-Sparks Convention & Visitors Authority, 4590 South Virginia Street,
800-FOR-RENO, is housed in Reno pioneer Myron Lake’s mansion that dates back to
the 1870s.

 Lake Tahoe
This sky-high sapphire, 22 miles long and 12 miles wide, is a study in contrast. In
1861, Mark Twain rode up to the Sierras from Carson City and, in his journal Roughing
It, proclaimed Lake Tahoe “the fairest sight the whole earth affords.” Tourism bureaus
have been lifting that phrase ever since. In reality, the lake still shines with
breathtaking beauty, a marvelous intermingling of water, rock, trees and sky,
showing off the unique geologic and atmospheric forces that have created one of
North America’s premier, year-round outdoor playgrounds. But there is a dark side:
Rows of shops, motels and restaurants line many (too many) miles of shoreline, and
in summer months the lines of traffic on the strip rival any Friday night gridlock on
Las Vegas Boulevard.
Growth is not only threatening the esthetic of the Tahoe Basin, but the future of the
Basin itself. The once-crystal-clear Lake Tahoe waters have begun a slow slide into
darkness due to increased erosion and algae growth. Fortunately, the waters are now
finding friends in high places. President Bill Clinton toured the region in 1997,
promising a government funding package to restore and protect the lake. All told,
local, state and federal governments plan to sink $900 million into a fight to save the
Basin’s wild qualities. At press time, the Nevada legislature was considering an $82
million plan to improve roads and trails, restore forest and watersheds, control
erosion and acquire open land.
The Nevada side of the Tahoe Basin, which includes 29 of the 72 miles of shoreline,
provides an interesting mix of adventures. At the northern and southern ends of Lake
Tahoe, respectively, the towns of Incline Village and Stateline bustle with rental cars
and video poker machines. But in between them, along the eastern shoreline, Nevada
protects some of the most dazzling areas of the Basin within Lake Tahoe Nevada
State Park.
The easiest access to the Nevada lakefront is from Reno via US 395 south to NV 431
west. About seven miles from the intersection west on NV 431 is Galena Creek
County Park, 702-849-2511. Stands of Jeffrey and ponderosa pines mix with
aspens, alders and dogwoods along the bubbling creek. The park, with its full slate of
running water, restrooms and picnic areas, is a favorite of hikers and horseback
riders. (See below, under On Foot.)
Up the twisting NV 431, the road tops out at Mount Rose Summit (the peak itself, at
10,776 feet, is two miles due north) and glides past the Mount Rose trailhead and
campground and access to the Mount Rose and Slide Mountain ski area on one side,
and Tahoe Meadows and the Ophir Creek trailhead on the other side. The road then
drops toward Lake Tahoe, offering glimpses of the water along the way and access to
Diamond Peak cross country and downhill ski areas.
NV 431 finally lands in Incline Village, a toney community near the California border
and home to the upscale Hyatt Regency Hotel and Sierra Nevada College. Just south
of Incline Village on NV 28, the unique Ponderosa Ranch, 702-831-0691, stands
out amid the pines. The place was built during the heyday of the Bonanza television
series to replicate the Cartwright’s ranch. The replica was so good that the producers
began shooting here. Today it’s a popular tourist attraction, open May through
November. Hayrides and barbecues are held regularly. Admission is $8.50 for adults,
$5.50 for kids.
After the buzz of the ranch, untouched Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park, 702-831-
0494, is a welcome respite. Viewed from the highway, waves of trees seem to roll
down the Carson Range toward the depths of the lake. Two posts on the inland side of
the road mark the Hidden Beach Trailhead. Close by are Memorial Point and
Hidden Beach, which offer great views of the water and secluded access down the
steep slopes to the shore. Three miles south of Incline Village, Sand Harbor is a very
popular spot for sunbathing and picnicking. The north end of the beach, called
Diver’s Cove, is well-known to snorkelers. A short nature trail winds along the
water’s edge. The beaches are open daily, 8 AM to 7 PM. The day-use fee is $5. No
bottles are allowed on the beaches. Every summer, Sand Harbor is home to a music
festival in July and a famous Shakespeare festival in August. For information,
916-583-9048.
It’s 10 miles south on NV 28 from Incline Village to the junction of US 50 and the
entrance to Spooner Lake. A drop-dead-gorgeous mountain bike/hiking trail begins
here, and the area is a cross-country skiing center in winter months. (See below,
under On Snow.) For the unmechanized, a nature trail circles the lake. Entrance fees
are $3 for cars and $1 for bikers or hikers.
The village of Glenbrook lies just south of the junction, and just beyond that is Cave
Rock, where the highway runs through 75 feet of solid Sierra Nevada granite. The
next stop is Zephyr Cove, a full-blown tourist draw along the lakeshore. This is the
home port of the Dixie II, 702-588-3508, a 150-foot-long paddlewheeler offering
cruises of various lengths, May through November. Woodwind Sailing Cruises,
702-588-3000, also offers excursions. Sailing, horseback riding, canoeing,
snowmobiling and a motel round out of the cove’s offerings. (See below, under
Adventures and Accommodations.)
The rest of the tour to the California state line is filled with a busy mélange of hotel-
casinos, restaurants, condos, offices and shops. At Tahoe Village, NV 207 heads west
toward Daggett Pass and the road to Heavenly Ski Resort. Booming in the winter
(see below, under On Snow), Heavenly is also a warm-weather destination thanks to
the tram that runs year-round, ferrying lazy hikers to the trails at an elevation of
8,250 feet in five minutes. The price for such sloth is $10.50 per adult, $6 per child.
Information Sources

Tahoe Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 7139, Stateline, NV 89449, 702-588-4591.

Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority, PO Box 16299, South Lake Tahoe, CA, 96151, 800-
AT-TAHOE.

 South of Reno
US 395 zips south from Reno first through Steamboat Valley, then into the broad
Washoe Valley. With the purple mountains’ majesty of the snow-capped Sierra
Nevada looming on the right and the Great Basin stretching away on the left, the
road is hands-down one of the most picturesque drives in the West.
About 15 miles south of Reno, US 395 slides southwest, while NV 428 heads due
south toward Little Washoe Lake and its big brother, Washoe Lake, site of Washoe
Lake State Park, 702-687-4319. During the wet season, Washoe Lake covers
about 3,000 acres, but it has dried up completely twice in the past 60 years due to
severe droughts. Camping, boating, windsurfing, fishing and horseback riding are
popular here. (See below, under Adventures, pages 83, 87 and 98). A wildlife viewing
tower has been set up in the lake’s wetlands.
Davis Creek County Park is located about 20 miles south of Reno, off NV 429, one
mile south of Washoe City. Often a more peaceful option than Washoe Lake, Davis
Creek offers its own small lake, camping and hiking (see below, under Adventures) in
the very shadow of the Sierras.
Just a few minutes south of Davis Creek, Bowers Mansion County Park, 702-849-
0201, invites visitors to gaze into northern Nevada’s mineral-filled past, when gold
and silver strikes made this one of the wealthiest areas in the country. The park’s
centerpiece, Bowers Mansion, was built in 1864 and comprises 16 rooms filled with
exquisite period furniture. The original owners, Lemuel Sanford Bowers and his
family, eventually lost their silver fortune, the mansion and all its furnishings. When
restoration began on the house 70 years later, preservationists started a statewide
search for as much furniture as they could find, a hunt that lasted 20 years. The
visitors center highlights exhibits explaining what was so good about the good old
days. Tours are given daily between 11 AM and 4:30 PM from Memorial Day to Labor
Day, and on weekends between May and October.
About 30 miles south of Reno, US 395 sweeps down a long grade into Carson City,
Nevada’s venerable capital and one of the best-preserved Old West cities west of the
Mississippi. In November, 1851, a group of six men opened a trading post called
Eagle Station in what would become downtown Carson City. But the area didn’t begin
to flourish until New York native Abraham Curry came to the Eagle Valley in 1858 and
immediately laid out a townsite and built a bathhouse on the hot springs near his
ranch. He called the site Carson City after explorer Kit Carson. When the Comstock
Lode, the world’s largest silver strike, was hit a year later in Virginia City, the boom
rolled in at full throttle.
Carson City became the capital when Congress formed the Nevada Territory in 1861 –
making it easier to funnel all that silver into the Union war effort and inspiring
Nevada’s motto: “All for our country.” On Halloween in 1864, while the blue and the
gray fought in the East, Nevada was granted statehood, hence the words waving on
the state flag: “Battle Born.” In fact, Nevada’s two new senators cast the deciding
votes to abolish slavery.
Unlike most Western capitals, Carson City has managed to retain a good portion of its
1864 romanticism, as well as the hospitality that attracted waves of homesteaders.
The most stunning examples of the city’s 19th-century glory are found in the
architecture.
The Capitol Building & Museum, 101 North Carson Street, 702-687-5030, is the
second-oldest capitol structure in the West. Built in 1871 of native stone quarried
from the State Prison and lined with Alaskan marble, the Capitol is open daily. It’s so
open, in fact, that visitors can stroll through the old legislative halls (great photo ops
in front of the lecturn) and Supreme Court chambers. You can even poke a head
through the open doors of the governor’s and lieutenant governor’s offices. The
Supreme Court chambers are a favorite stop for law students dreaming big. The
legislature and Supreme Court currently meet in the audacious neoclassical buildings
across the grassy plaza from the Capitol.
The Capitol Building & Museum is one highlight along a unique visitors’ path called
the Kit Carson Trail. Identified by a blue line on downtown sidewalks and a driving-
tour map, the trail hits more than 50 sites dating from the late 1800s and early
1900s. The entire tour can easily eat up an afternoon. Recorded narration on The
Talking House Tour can be heard by tuning your radio to 1020 through 1080 AM on
the dial.
If the two-plus miles of the Kit Carson historical trail in downtown Carson City are too
much, the Hoofbeats Historical Horse-Drawn Wagon Tour, 702-884-3450,
makes the rounds in a vintage buckboard. Headquartered in nearby Minden, the
wagons make regular stops along the trail. Call for schedules and pick-up points.
Just east of the Capitol, the Nevada State Library & Archives, 100 Stewart Street,
702-687-5160, are housed in a structure that was built in 1992 to incorporate the
old State Printing Building, which was opened in 1886. The library contains the
original state constitution, an unmatched collection of historical records and a variety
of changing exhibits. Open Monday through Friday, excepting state holidays, year-
round.
A must-stop is the Nevada State Museum, 600 North Carson Street, 702-687-
4810, regarded as the top museum of its kind in the state. Admission is $3. Located
in the Carson City Mint building, which coined the Silver State’s mineral wealth
between 1870 and 1893, the musem boasts an impressive antique money collection,
exhibits of native fauna, complete displays of Nevada geology and archaeology and
an eerie reproduction of a full-scale 19th-century mine tunnel in the basement.
Two blocks north, the Northern Nevada Children’s Museum, 813 North Carson
Street, 702-884-2226, has plenty of hands-on exhibits to keep little fingers busy.
Admission is $4 for adults, $2 for kids. The nearby Brewery Arts Center, 448 West
King Street, 702-883-1976, is the original 1864 site of the West’s first microbrewery,
the Carson City Brewing Company. The building now houses a live theater, pottery
studio and the Nevada Artists Association Gallery. The Roberts House Museum,
1207 North Carson Street, 702-887-2174, built in 1859 and moved to Carson City in
1873 on a railroad flat car, marks the height of Victorian Gothic architecture. The
museum is filled with period furniture. Admission is $2.
The St. Charles-Muller Hotel, 302 South Carson Street, was known as a four-star
establishment when it was completed in 1862. The Orion Clemens House, 502
North Division Street, was named for its original occupant, Nevada’s first territorial
secretary, whose trip out West was detailed by his traveling companion and brother,
Samuel. That classic journal, Roughing It, became one of Mark Twain’s best sellers. At
the corner of Mountain and West Robinson streets, three homes stand proudly: the
Governor’s Mansion (1909), Bliss Mansion, built for the Tahoe lumber king in
1879, and Bender House (1874), home to a Virginia & Truckee Railroad agent.
On the suburban south side of Carson City, train buffs the world over flock to the
Nevada State Railroad Museum, 2180 South Carson Street, 702-687-6953.
Locomotives and train cars from the halcyon days of the Virginia & Truckee (1869-
1950) – which became the most lucrative short line in the world, running treasure
from Virginia City to Carson City to Reno – have been painstakingly restored. The gem
is an 1888 steam locomotive. Visitors can ride daily during summer months.
Admission is $2.50; train rides are extra.
Nearby is the US Forest Service Carson Ranger District office, 1536 South
Carson Street, 702-826-2766. The staff can provide trail maps, books and permits
for the surrounding area, including the Carson Range of the Sierra Nevada and Tahoe.
The office is closed Sundays.
The Stewart Indian Museum, 5366 Snyder Avenue, 702-882-1808, is on the quiet
campus of the former Stewart Indian Boarding School, opened in December 1890 as
the Clear Creek Indian Training School. The native stone buildings are listed on the
National Register of Historic Places. The school’s initial mission was to “assimilate”
native children into white society and strip them of their heritage. The goal later
became to highlight Native American history. Before the school closed in 1980, 3,000
students had walked its halls. Today a small but wonderful museum and gift shop
struggle to survive in one corner of the campus. As of presstime, budget constraints
were forcing the museum to return all of its native-made pieces to the tribes from
which they were borrowed and focus solely on school history. The campus hosts an
incredible pow wow and arts and crafts festival every June.
Information Sources

Contact or visit the Carson City Convention and Visitors Bureau, 1900 South
Carson Street, Carson City, NV 89701, 702-687-7410.

 South of Carson City

Approximately 12 miles south of Carson City via NV 206, at the foot of the Carson
Range, lies Genoa, the first permanent white settlement in the state. The roots go
back to 1851, when a group of Mormons led by Colonel John Reese set up a trading
post here called Mormon Station. The place saw Nevada’s first house, now long gone.
What is left is fascinating in a quaint sort of way. The highlight for history buffs is the
Genoa Courthouse Museum at the corner of Main and 5th streets, 702-782-4325,
located in the 1865 Douglas County courthouse. Exhibits range from exquisite
Washoe Indian basketry to a full-scale prison cell and a tribute to trans-Sierran
postman Jon Torsteinson-Rue, better known as “Snowshoe” Thompson, who for
almost 20 years walked and skied the mail from Placerville, California, to Genoa,
where he is buried. The museum is open daily, May through October. Across the
street, Mormon Station State Park is a reconstructed fort that is also open daily,
May through October. Up the street, Genoa Bar, opened in 1863, claims to be
Nevada’s oldest watering hole.
About a mile south of Genoa is Walley’s Hot Springs, 2001 Foothill Road, 702-
782-8155, whose pedestrian name is quite deceiving. Walley’s, first opened to
tourists in 1862, is actually a full-service resort-hotel built around the steamy fresh-
water springs. Guests can enjoy the water, saunas, weight room and tennis courts
year-round. Daily admission is $12.
Back on US 395, about eight miles south of Carson City, the towns of Minden and
Gardnerville lie along the East Fork Carson River. Minden was founded in 1904,
Gardnerville in 1879. In Gardnerville, the main attraction is the Carson Valley
Museum & Cultural Center, 1477 Highway 395, 702-782-2555. Housed in the
1915 high school building, the center features fine displays covering local Washoe
Indians and agriculture, a children’s art museum and the East Fork Artists
Cooperative Gallery. Just down US 395, the unofficial Carson Valley museum is found
in, of all places, Sharkey’s Nugget Casino, 1440 Highway 395, 702-782-3133.
Sharkey Begovich’s iconoclastic collection ranges far and wide, including Western art
and portraiture, boxing memorabilia, circus items, and a saddle collection from rodeo
and film stars.
About three miles south of Gardnerville, US 395 runs through the Dresslerville
(Washoe) Indian Reservation and past the Lahontan National Fish Hatchery on the
right while climbing toward Holbook Junction and the California border. Finally, about
25 miles south of Gardnerville, the highway hits Topaz Lake, 702-266-3343, a
1,200-acre beauty set at 5,000 feet in the backyard of the High Sierras. Topaz Lake
Park offers prime camping and angling about eight months out of the year.
 East of Carson City
The vein that pumped the very lifeblood into Nevada in the mid-1800s can be traced
along two Reno-Tahoe Territory highways east of the capital. The otherwise barren
hills, valleys, mounds and depressions were once filled with the largest mineral
deposits ever found in this country, and folks by the thousands came from all
directions to unearth them. Their riches, their sweat, and their spirit built the Silver
State, and their ghosts still walk this landscape.
US 50 heads for the dry sage-covered land east of the city, where it intersects with
NV 341, the winding road to the site of the monumental Comstock Lode. Beyond NV
341, US 50 leads to the site of the state’s first gold rush.
Leaving Carson City, US 50 flies eight miles to NV 341, which climbs up a narrow,
dust-choked valley past abandoned mills and mines. Eight miles from the intersection
of US 50 and NV 341, Virginia City, the Far West’s best-preserved boomtown comes
into view, resting precariously on the brown flank of Sun Mountain. Miners were
already scouring these hills and canyons for gold in 1859 when Henry Comstock’s
claim was found to contain $3,000 a ton in silver. The Comstock Lode had been
struck, and within four years, more than 15,000 people would be crowded into
Virginia City.
Another huge vein was hit in 1873, and by 1876 half the state’s population of 46,000
lived in Virginia City. Today, the town shamelessly pans for tourist gold, with vendors
hawking every trinket conceivable along garish C Street. The good news is that the
money flowing in keeps the 150-year-old heart ticking and most of the period
structures open and in good repair.
At the south end of town, the Fourth Ward School on C Street, 702-847-0975, is a
looming, four-story Victorian spectacle built in 1876 that’s been converted to a
wonderful museum. Filled with displays of life on the Comstock, period classrooms
and background on the oft-forgotten women and immigrants of early Nevada, the
school is rife with creaky floors and spooky hallways. The building is open daily, May
through October.
Up C Street, a highlight for adventurers is found in the back of the otherwise
forgettable Ponderosa Saloon. Here, underground mine tours,  702-847-0757,
leave regularly, delving straight back through the saloon wall into a paved tunnel that
runs more than 300 feet into the Best & Belcher claim. Not recommended for
claustrophobes, the tours are narrated by live guides who know their stuff. Admission
is $3.
A plethora of museums and attractions line most of C Street, offering the spectrum
of Virginia City history, from the outstanding to the outrageous and the outlandish.
Most open daily around 10 AM and close at 5 or 6 PM. Admission prices range from
donations to $3. The Marshall Mint Museum, 702-847-0777, shows off local
minerals and sells unique silver and gold coins.
Julia Bulette
The Julia Bulette Red Light Museum, 702-847-9394, a room in the basement of a
saloon, is definitely not for the puritan. The museum is named for the city’s best-
known working girl, who was so popular that she was named an honorary member of
the local fire department. After she was murdered in 1867, 3,000 citizens turned out
to see her killer hanged. Today the museum’s displays portray the seedy side of
Comstock life: prostitution, opium dens and medical and dental equipment that
seems nothing short of barbaric.

The memory of Samuel Clemens, who took the pen name Mark Twain while writing for
the Territorial Enterprise here, lives on in two buildings. The Mark Twain Museum,
702-847-0525, is housed in the original newspaper offices and press room. Mark
Twain’s Memories, 702-847-0454, has a more eclectic collection, including an old
jukebox and player pianos. The Way It Was Museum, 702-847-0766, is dedicated
mainly to the history of mining technology in the Comstock.
Up the hill from the main drag on B Street awaits The Castle, 702-847-0275, a 16-
room mansion built in 1868 that, here in the middle of the rip-snortin’ West, rivals
any snooty English manor house in refinement and furnishings. The home is filled
with flawless European antiques and accoutrements. Open daily, June through
October. Admission is $2.50.
Up B Street from The Castle stands Piper’s Opera House, 702-847-0333, the
height of culture when it was built in 1885. Its extravagant interior, complete with
ornate chandeliers, is open daily. Admission is $2.
Railroad buffs who didn’t get their fill at the museum in Carson City should visit the
Virginia & Truckee Depot on E Street, 702-847-0830, for a ride into yesterday.
The steam train takes riders down the mountain to Gold Hill for $4 from Memorial
Day through September.
Finally, no visit to Virginia City is complete without a trip to the cemeteries at the
northeast edge of town on a small, windswept plateau. The headstones and
gravesites, most dating from the late 1800s and early 1900s and in various states of
disrepair, are sobering reminders of the pioneers that came and went here long
before the tourists arrived.
Information Sources

Contact the Virginia City Chamber of Commerce, 702-847-0311.

Past the intersection with NV 431, US 50 rolls east four miles to Dayton. The first gold
strike in Nevada occurred here in 1849, as did the state’s first marriage – and first
divorce. Several historic buildings survive in downtown, including Odeon Hall, built in
1875 as a meeting place and opera house.
Continuing east on US 50 another three miles, the Fort Churchill-Wellington
Backcountry Byway leaves the highway heading due east on an unpaved road. The
Byway’s terminus, Fort Churchill State Historic Park, 702-577-2345, can also be
reached via smooth highways: from US 50, go 15 miles east to Silver Springs, then
take ALT US 95 south eight miles to the park. Built in 1860 to protect settlers
following the Pyramid Lake Indian War, Fort Churchill was abandoned 10 years later.
Today, little more than a few walls remain, but a visitors center interprets the history
of the area, including the nearby Pony Express and Overland Telegraph routes. There
is also a developed campground.
 North of Reno
It doesn’t take long to leave the bright lights of downtown Reno behind and enter the
Nevada backcountry. One option out of the north end of the city is to take I-80 east
about five miles to Sparks, then exit at NV 445. From here it’s due north into the
sagebrush on the Pyramid Lake Road National Scenic Byway.
After about eight miles, the Bureau of Land Management Wild Horse and Burro
Placement Center, 702-673-1150, appears in Palomino Valley. The last true
holdovers from the untamed West, wild horses, or mustangs, number about 30,000 in
Nevada and are a regular source of controversy. Ranching interests decry mustangs
grazing on private land, while wildlife advocates attempt to sing their praises and
save their hides. The BLM thins herds by capturing wild horses and bringing them
here for adoption. Wild burros are also distributed through the center. Tours of the
center must be arranged in advance by telephone.
After another 20 miles, the most convenient – and eye-popping – source for
adventure north of Reno appears: Pyramid Lake. The first white man to describe
this terminus of the Truckee River was Great Basin trailblazer John C. Fremont, who in
his 1843 journal compared the pointed rock rising from the placid waters of the lake
to the Pyramid of Cheops, thus christening the 27-mile-long, nine-mile-wide watering
hole. Fremont encountered Paiutes at the lake, the latest in a long line of Native
Americans who have lived here, according to artifacts found in local caves, since at
least 9,000 BC.
Paiutes and treaty-busting white settlers fought deadly battles here during what
became known as the Pyramid Lake War in 1860. A reservation was formalized in
1874. Today, the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation, 702-476-1156, continues to
surround the lake. Tribe members administer recreation activities, selling permits and
running fish hatcheries.
NV 445 dead ends at NV 446, which runs north to the outpost of Sutclife and
Pyramid Lake Marina, site of the ranger station, campground, boat ramp, store and
museum. The mandatory day-use fee is $5. Camping, boating and fishing are extra.
The nearby Dunn Hatchery shows off the Paiutes’ success at raising the Lahontan
cutthroat troat that stock the lake, as well as the prehistoric cui-ui, an endangered
sucker fish with the distinction of having lived here virtually unchanged for tens of
thousands of years. Visitors must arrange for tours in advance by calling Pyramid
Lake Fisheries at  702-476-0510. They will provide directions and hours of operation.
Just north of the marina, the aptly named Pelican Point has a boat ramp and
primitive campground. Across the water due west of the point is Anaho Island, a
national wildlife refuge (strictly off-limits to the public) that is a historic breeding
ground for American white pelicans. Another 25 miles north via paved, gravel and
sometimes impassable dirt/sand roads lie Steam Geyser Hot Springs and The
Needles. The latter are fine specimens of tufas, formed when calcium carbonate
precipates out of the water onto rock formations. The lake’s pyramid is an extreme
example.
South on NV 446 from Sutcliffe, the road passes Wino, Sandhole and Popcorn
beaches, runs into NV 447 and heads north and crosses the Truckee River to the tiny
town of Nixon. Nearby, the Pyramid Lake Fishway, 702-547-0187, gives
prearranged tours for icthyology fans.
From Nixon, NV 447 speeds north past the Lake Range and Tohakum Peak (elevation
8,182 feet) to the west, reaching the hamlet of Gerlach, the welcome mat for the
Black Rock Desert. Spreading north and east, the world’s largest playa, or dry lake
bed, offers at least a million acres of soul-stirring barrenness. If losing yourself is your
goal, this is the place to do it – unless, of course, a near-supersonic land rocket is in
the vicinity. The Black Rock gained fame recently as the site of a land-speed record
assault by a British team of speed demons, stealing the thunder of the famed
Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. Tourists are invited to cruise the playa as well. Two “on
ramps” present themselves off NV 34 northwest of Gerlach, one about six miles from
town and another about 12 miles out. The latter leads across the playa to Black Rock
Springs.

In this region, preparedness is imperative. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly

recommended and, even with one, the playa is off-limits when it’s wet because
vehicles can quickly bog down. A stuck truck may sit for months until the playa is dry
enough to get a wrecker out here. Let someone know where you are going and when
you’ll be back, and carry enough water, food and warm clothes to spend several days
out here if something unexpected happens. A shovel, tow chain, spare tire, good
maps and a CB radio or cellular phone are also essential. Help can be a long way
away.

The easiest (read “paved”) route to the rest of northwestern Nevada begins in Reno
on I-80. Go west and north about 165 miles to US 95 in Winnemucca, then head north
31 miles to NV 140. From here it’s 66 miles through the Fort McDermitt Indian
Reservation to the town of Denio Junction, the gateway to Sheldon National
Wildlife Refuge, 503-947-3315.
The refuge is home to some of the last of the American pronghorn antelope that once
bounded across the West by the millions. The refuge boundary lies 25 miles west of
Denio Junction across Bog Hot Valley, on 575,000 acres of US Fish & Wildlife Service
land. The field station is located near Dufferena Ponds, about one mile south of NV
140. Besides antelope, best seen near Swan Lake in spring and summer and Big
Springs and Gooch Tables in winter, birds of prey, songbirds, and small mammals
are common sights amid the sagebrush. Again, caution and common sense are key to
traveling, camping and fishing safely in this very remote area.

Special Events
March
Virginia City hosts the Delta Saloon International Mountain Oyster Fry, 702-
847-7500, featuring these unique delicacies prepared in various styles. Carson City
and Minden are the sites of Cowboy Culture Weekend, 702-883-1352, an
increasingly popular Western music and poetry celebration. Carson City also hosts
the Mother Earth Awakening Pow Wow, 702-882-1808, one of the Great Basin’s
largest gathering of First Nations peoples.
May
Cinco de Mayo Fiesta Nevada, 702-353-2291, is held in Sparks, welcoming
Hispanic and Latino performers from across the West. The Minden Spring Arts &
Crafts Streets Fair, 702-782-2444, brings hundreds of artisans and musicians to
Carson Valley.
June
America’s Most Beautiful Bike Ride, 702-588-9658, is a fully supported 75-mile
ride around Lake Tahoe, with food, water, and roving vans offering repairs and
emergency pick up. The ride begins in Zephyr Cove. In Carson City, the Pony
Express Re-Ride, 702-882-1283, re-enacts the famous mail service and the
Feathers Day Pow Wow, 702-882-1802, is held at the Stewart Indian Cultural
Center. In Gardnerville, Carson Valley Days, 702-265-5281, features an old
fashioned parade and arts and crafts. In Reno, the West Coast Wine Tasting
Competition, 800-FOR-RENO, heats up, Night Curves, 702-329-7469, brings a
parade of muscle cars to the streets and the Reno Rodeo, 702-329-3877, bills itself
as the “Wildest, Richest Rodeo in the West.”
July
Harvey’s Casino at Lake Tahoe hosts the Microbrew World Music Festival, 702-
588-6211. In Virginia City, The Way It Was Rodeo, 702-847-0311, is a rip-snortin’
affair. Minden hosts Carson Valley Heritage Days, 702-782-2211, and Carson City
is the site of American Heat, 702-687-7410, a rolling custom car show.
August
August opens in Reno with Hot August Nights, 702-829-1955, a weekend salute to
the cars and music of the ’50s and ’60s. Reno also plays host to the Reno
500/National Truck Week, 702-827-7603, the Nevada State Fair, 702-688-
5767, and the famous Reno Basque Festival, 702-329-1476.
September
The famous International Camel Races, 702-847-0311, come to Virginia City
along with a parade. Street Vibrations,  702-329-7469, brings Harley-Davidsons to
the streets of Reno and Sparks. In the skies, Reno hosts both the Great Reno
Balloon Race,  702-826-1181, and the National Championship Air Races,  702-
972-6663. On the Black Rock Desert, the notorious Burning Man Festival, a sort of
post-modern, deconstructionist Woodstock, climaxes on Labor Day weekend with the
torching of a 40-foot wooden figure.
October
Carson City is home to the Wa She Shu Pow Wow and La Ke Le’lbe Pow Wow,
702-885-6939. In Incline Village, the Native American Snow Dance, 702-832-
1606, attracts American Indians from many Western states. The Great Italian
Festival, 702-786-5700, is held in Reno, and the Nevada Day Parade, 702-882-
1565, takes place in Carson City.
November
The Celtic New Year Celebration, 800-535-3045, fills Reno with pipe bands and
dancers, and the men and women of Rhymer’s Rodeer Cowboy Poetry, 702-
782-9711, gather in Minden.

Adventures
 On Foot
Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop Hike
Between Reno and Lake Tahoe, the fantastic Jones Creek-Whites Creek eight-mile
loop hike into the Carson Range (the local name for the eastern Sierras) is easily
accessible through Galena Creek County Park off NV 431 between Reno and Lake
Tahoe. The trail heads northwest for a half-mile, crosses Jones Creek and turns right.
Then it climbs north and turns west into White Canyon. At the five-mile mark, the trail
leaves the canyon and climbs southeast to 8,000 feet, whips around a peak, then
switchbacks downhill to rejoin Jones Creek and the trail you came in on.
 A detailed description of the Jones Creek-Whites Creek Loop hike is found in
Bruce Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada, Falcon Press Publishing, 1994.
The Mount Rose Trail
Up the road from Galena Creek, the Mount Rose Trail to the summit at 10,776 feet
remains one of the most popular trails in the area. Arrive here at dawn or on a
weekday to avoid the crowds. The trailhead is on the west side of the highway just
beyond Mount Rose Campground. The six-mile trail parallels Third Creek for about 2½
miles, then climbs to a saddle. After crossing Galena Creek, the trail goes downhill
into the creek drainage, crosses the creek again after the three-mile mark, then
climbs in earnest toward the peak. The ridgetops and the summit are often very
windy, so dress appropriately. Views of the lake and surrounding Sierras, however,
are more chilling than the mountain air.
Tahoe Basin Trails
In the Tahoe Basin, many hiking trails are shared with mountain bikes, including most
of the Tahoe Rim Trail on the Nevada side of the border. The 14-mile Spooner Lake
Trail north to Hidden Beach Trailhead is described below in On Wheels.
Some excellent crag climbing and bouldering can be found within sight of Lake Tahoe.
Incline Rock is 3½ miles north of Incline Village, with parking on the left just south
of the vista point. The 75-foot-high granite face is 100 yards uphill. Overhangs
present experts with 5.11a and 5.12a opportunities. In Incline Village above Diamond
Peak Ski Area on Tyrol Drive, Lycra Eliminator offers more overhangs and five aided
routes. Farther south, at the junction of US 50 and NV 28, Spooner Crag is found on
a side road heading west just west of the intersection. The crag is 75 yards uphill
offering sport crag climbing on 50 feet of face. There are 10 routes, including Jello
Wars (5.11a). The famous Cave Rock also has 80 feet of face and difficult
overhangs above and below US 50. There are more than 20 routes, all 5.11c and
heavier, including Asylum (5.11d) and Slayer (5.14a).
Reno
For hiking in Reno proper, the Oxbow Nature Study Area, 702-688-1893, offers a
beautiful willow- and cottonwood-lined slice of the city before the highrises arrived. It
is located on a bend in the Truckee River two miles west of downtown on Dickerson
Road. Don’t be discouraged by the row of seedy auto repair shops near the area’s
main gate. Over 100 species of birds have been sighted from its trails, including great
blue herons and birds of prey. Hours are seasonal, so call first.
On the north side of Reno in Rancho San Rafael Park, a trail leads to one of the
city’s highest points. Reach the trailhead by driving north on North Virginia Street
past North McCarran Boulevard to a parking lot on the left. The trail winds about one
mile toward the tip of Peavine Peak, elevation 8,260 feet.
Washoe Valley
About 20 miles south of Reno in Washoe Valley, Ophir Creek Trail begins at Davis
Creek County Park and climbs quickly into the Carson Range. This hike is certainly
strenuous, climbing 3,300 feet in just six miles, but the views of Washoe Valley from
Tahoe Meadows near the crest are well worth the effort. The trail parallels Ophir
Creek, scaling the drainage eastward for about three miles to Rock Lake, a
subalpine beauty just south of the trail. After another mile, the trail finds Upper and
Lower Price Lakes, which were destroyed in a gigantic landslide from the shoulders
of aptly named Slide Mountain in 1983. Debris is still visible in the Ophir drainage.
Since the slide, a new dam has been constructed and the lakes are on their way to
returning to their full pre-slide size. The last three miles follow an old jeep road
alongside verdant Tahoe Meadows, with over-the-shoulder views of Washoe Valley
now far below. The trail ends at a highway, NV 431. To continue the hike on the Mount
Rose Trail, walk a half-mile east along the highway to the trailhead.
Virginia City
The best way to see Virginia City is afoot, and one way to walk with an expert is with
Detours, 702-847-WALK, which leads three-hour history walks through the bustling
streets. The charge for adults is $12, for children $5. Customized walking and driving
tours are also available, as are group tours.
High Rock Canyon
One of the Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife-viewing hikes is also one of its most
inaccessible. But for those with chutzpah and a 4WD vehicle, High Rock Canyon is an
unforgettable stop. To reach the trailhead, start in Gerlach and drive 34 miles north
on gravel SR 34 to Smokey Canyon Road, turn right and head 14 miles to High Rock
Reservoir. From here, a portion of the proposed National Scenic Desert Trail
meanders northwest about one mile to a gate. The trail, once the popular route of the
Oregon Trail’s Applegate cutoff in the 1850s and ‘60s, winds below sheer canyon
walls that hide golden eagles, great horned owls and other birds of prey. Mule deer
and tundra swans are also seen. Pioneers used this route to avoid conflicts with the
British, who controlled the land north of Nevada in the mid-19th century. Note that
the canyon is closed February 1 to April 15. For travel information, call the BLM at
 702-623-1500.
High Rock Canyon provides a simple out-and-back hike, or an extended overnighter
with plenty of side canyons to explore beneath cliffs that soar 800 feet above the
desert floor. Stevens Camp, about 19 miles northwest of the traihead, is a good
overnight point, as it should have water and a wood-burning stove.

The Hikers Guide to Nevada is a great information source, as are 7.5-minute USGS
quads of High Rock Lake, Mahogany Mountain, Yellow Hills East, Yellow Hills West and
Badger Mountain Southeast. For road conditions and closures, contact the BLM,
916-279-6101.

Desert National Scenic Trail

The idea of this trail began in the 1970s as a corridor stretching from Canada through
the flatlands of five Western states all the way to Mexico. As this is being written, the
Desert Trail Association has established 300 miles of trail and produced maps for
eight sections, including High Rock Canyon and the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge.
For more information, contact the DTA at PO Box 34, Madras, OR 97441. A hiking club
called Desert Survivors has taken up the cause of the charting the rest of the trail
and preserving unspoiled spaces. The group regularly leads guided hikes and
welcomes new members. For more information, write them at PO Box 20991,
Oakland, CA 94620.

Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area

Not far from the Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge, Pine Forest Wilderness Study Area,
702-623-1500, beckons hikers to trails near Onion Valley Reservoir. To reach the
trailhead from the nearest town, Denio Junction, take NV 140 west about 13 miles to
a dirt road on the left. Look for the Knott Creek sign. A high-clearance vehicle is
strongly recommended from here. Follow this road south about 15 miles to a BLM
sign on the left. A left turn leads up a rough road into the Wildnerness Study Area. It’s
about eight miles to the reservoir. A steep, six-mile round-trip hike to the summit of
Dufer Peak begins on the west side of the reservoir, jogs through alpine meadows,
across a creek and toward the northern ridge of Duffer. The trail climbs a drainage
northeast of the peak, gaining 2,200 lung-burning feet, to the soaring summit at
9,397 feet.
On the east side of the reservoir, the road leads 1½ miles to a trailhead, terminus of
the fairly flat, one-mile Blue Lakes Trail. The lakes, set in a beautiful subalpine bowl,
were carved by glaciers thousands of years ago. The Duffer Peak 15-minute USGS
topo map comes in handy.

Hiking Outfitters

The following four listings are on the state list of Master Guides for 1997-98. Most of
them specialize in hunting and fishing, but they might also offer their services to
hikers, backpackers and photographers.
Silver State Outfitters, 3335 Vista Boulevard, Sparks, NV 89436, 702-
626-6916.
Bighorn Outfitting, PO Box 6145, Incline Village, NV 89450, 702-832-
5231.
Nevada Guide Service, 20 Daylily Court, Reno, NV 89511, 702-851-1924.
Outdoor Adventures, 1135 Terminal Way, #111, Reno, NV 89502, 702-
333-6795.
Reno
Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods, 490 Kietzke Lane, 702-322-
9559.
 Patagonia Outlet, 8550 White Fir Street,  702-746-6878.
Reno Mountain Sports, 155 East Moana Lane, 702-825-2855.
Sierra Mountaineer, 1901 Silverada Boulevard, 702-358-4824.
Twin City Surplus, 1675 East 4th Street, 702-323-5630.
Carson City
Kevin’s Ski & Sports, 1941 North Carson Street, 702-882-7779.
Sporting Rage, 4339 South Carson Street, 702-885-7773.
Strictly Scuba & More, 4375 South Carson Street, 702-884-3453.
Vogl Trek USA, 702-849-9651, leads multi-day hiking trips into the local moutains.

 On Horseback
On the shores of Lake Tahoe, Zephyr Cove Stables, 702-588-5664, rents mounts
by the half-hour and hour, and offers picnic rides. Near Washoe Lake State Park, Old
Washoe Ranch Stables, 1201 Highway 395, 702-849-1020, also rents horses. In
Carson Valley south of Carson City, Sierra Spirit Ranch, 702-782-7011, offers
ranch day trips, while Tieg’s Van Sickle Station Ranch, 702-831-5465, welcomes
visitors for extended ranch stays. In all four cases, call first for availability and
directions. In the highlands near Mount Rose, contact Tin Cup Adventures, 702-
849-0570.
 On Wheels
Biking Lake Tahoe
High above Lake Tahoe, one of the West’s best mountain bike trails begins near the
intersection of NV 28 and US 50 at Spooner Lake. The 10-mile round-trip is
classified as moderately strenuous. Begin by following the signs for North Canyon
Road, which parallels North Canyon Creek. After about three miles, the trail makes a
high-altitude, heart-thumping climb past Snow Valley Peak on the right toward
Marlette Lake. (The lake supplies water to Virginia City via a system of pipes and
flumes designed and built in 1873.) Don’t stop now – the views are definitely worth
the effort. The ride can be extended by continuing north past the lake another three
miles to Hobart Reservoir, or even six miles beyond there to the Hidden Beach
Trailhead on NV 28. A car shuttle is a good idea for the latter destination.
Note that bikers share this route with both hikers and equestrians, and they must
yield the right-of-way to both. The animosity that often exists between these three
user groups is not generally found at Tahoe, and bikers are actually well regarded
here for respecting their fellow recreationists and the environment. Put simply, don’t
screw it up. Another optional extension leaves the west side of Marlette Lake on the
famous Flume Trail. Riders will probably feel like a 19th-century log hurtling down a
water-filled flume on this extreme plummet toward NV 28. For detailed maps, contact
Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park, 702-831-0494.
Reno
The Truckee River Bike Path begins, or ends, depending on point of view, at
Idlewilde Park about one mile west of downtown Reno. The 12-mile path stretches
from Reno east to the sister city of Sparks along the banks of the Truckee.
Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Backcountry Byway
Drive your troubles away on the lonely, secluded Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs
Backcountry Byway, north of Pyramid Lake. The half-paved, half-gravel drive begins
in Gerlach on NV 447 heading northwest. The highway skirts Squaw Creek Reservoir
17 miles out, then near mile 52 hits the playa of Duck Flat and goes through the
intersection with Tuledad Road. Continuing northwest on NV 447, the byway crosses
the California border and runs due north, in the shadow of Eagle and Warren peaks on
the left, 35 miles to the town of Cedarville, site of the BLM Surprise Resource Area
office, 916-279-6101. From here, a right turn on CA 299 leads back across the
border (where the road becomes NV 8A), to Vya, 21 miles from the intersection where
you made the right turn onto CA 299. To complete the loop, make a straight shot
south-southwest on gravel NV 34, 84 miles back to Gerlach, past such landmarks as
Crabapple Ridge, Swedes Place and Leadville Canyon.
Carson City
A great road biking excursion that is also one of Reno-Tahoe Territory’s best wildlife
viewing tours is found along 22 miles of Jacks Valley Road, also known as NV 206,
south of Carson City. US 395 intersects with Jacks Valley Road three miles south of
the state capital and runs due south at the toes of the Sierra Nevadas.
 According to Jeanne L. Clark’s excellent Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide, Falcon
Press Publishing, 1993, hundreds of mule deer of both the Rocky Mountain and
California subspecies descend to this area each winter to forage. Birds of prey such
as red-tailed hawks and bald eagles can be seen all year, along with Canada geese in
fall, winter and spring.
The historic town of Genoa and its facilities are the halfway point of this ride. For
more information, call 702-688-1500.
Biking Outfitters
Reno
Bicycle Bananas, 2005 Sierra Highlands Drive, 89532, 702-747-1413.
Bicycle Warehouse, 3450 Lakeside Drive, 89509, 702-827-3277.
Bobo’s Ski Shop, 1200 South Wells Avenue, 89502, 702-786-5111.
Excell Skates, 235 East Plumb Lane, 89502, 702-322-6001.
Great Basin Bicycles, 1999 South Virginia Street, 89502, 702-825-8258.
Reno Schwinn, 4135 South Virginia Street, 89502, 702-826-0800.
Carson City
Capitol Bicycles, 500 North Carson Street, 89701, 702-883-3210.
Bike Brothers, 1987 North Carson Street, 89701, 702-887-1333.
The Bike Smith, 625 Fairview Drive, 89701, 702-882-5007.
Incline Village
Sierra Nevada Adventures, PO Box 3007, 89450,  888-831-4591
Minden
Bike & Ski Sports, 1685 Highway 395 South, 89423, 702-782-0867.

 On Water
Lake Tahoe
Lake Tahoe offers enough aquatic recreation – 191.6 square miles of surface – so that
boaters can spend the whole summer on the lake and not drift over the same spot
twice. On the Nevada side, the best launching point is Zephyr Cove. The Zephyr
Cove Sailing Center, 702-588-3369, rents powerboats, canoes, personal water
craft and kayaks. Lake Tahoe also offers scurfing, a surfing-skiing hybrid in which a
small surfboard is pulled behind a speed boat.
East Fork Carson River
One of Nevada’s few float-trip opportunties begins on the East Fork Carson River in
California and ends 21 miles later in Reno-Tahoe Territory. Begin at Hangman’s Bridge
near Markleeville, California, approximately 15 miles south of Gardnerville, Nevada,
via NV 88 and CA 89. During spring and early summer, canoeists and kayakers can
spot herons, kingfishers, red-tailed hawks, turkey vultures, coyotes, mule deer and
other wildlife along the river. The trip, which can take up to seven hours, ends near
Washoe Tribe Campground, six miles south of Gardnerville.
 A great description of this tour is found in Jeanne L. Clark’s Nevada Wildlife
Viewing Guide.
Contact the US Forest Service,  702-882-2766 for water conditions and a current
list of commercial float-trip operators.
Spooner Lake
In the Carson Range above Lake Tahoe, Spooner Lake, at the junction of NV 28 and
US 50, offers 1,200 acres of high-altitude fishing for trout: browns, cutthroat and
rainbows. Entrance fee is $3 per car.
Reno
By far the wettest metropolitan area near the Great Basin, thanks to Sierra runoff,
Reno proper even has a few fishing opportunities for the angler who doesn’t have the
time or the inclination to travel out of town. Virginia Lake Park on Lakeside Drive is
probably the best bet for stillwater fishing. The lake covers 24 acres and hides bass,
catfish and trout. Paradise Park Pond’s cats and trout swim under 10 surface
acres. For directions, water levels, planting and licensing information, contact
Nevada Division of Wildlife, 702-688-1500.
For moving-water anglers, few urban streams in America top the Truckee River near
Reno. The days when thousands of cutthroat trout would pack the river on their 115-
mile migration from Pyramid Lake to Lake Tahoe may be over, but in wet years, eight-
pound brown trout have been pulled from the Truckee within a crap shoot of the
Virginia Street Bridge. However, Idlewilde Park, only a mile west of downtown, is a
more natural setting for city-bound fishermen.
Washoe Lake State Park
About 20 miles south of Reno, Washoe Lake State Park, 702-687-4319, is a desert
mecca for boaters and windsurfers. There are two boat ramps, both on the eastern
shore. The state ramp on the southeastern edge is well-developed, with campground
and restrooms, and charges a launching fee. The smaller, primitive county boat ramp
to the north has no facilities to speak of but is free. For the stalwart anglers, catfish
dwell on the bottom of Washoe Lake.
A better option might be Ophir Creek, accessible through Davis Creek County Park
due west of Washoe Lake. Brook trout run in the drainage above the park, two to
three miles up a steep trail. Upper and Lower Price Lakes, still recovering from a
devastating landslide three miles up the drainage, are regularly stocked with
rainbows. If humping up a trail doesn’t appeal, the pond at Davis Creek County
Park is stocked seasonally.
Gardnerville
In suburban Gardnerville, the pond in Lampe Park is stocked seasonally. For more
adventurous angling, drive 25 miles south of Gardnerville to Topaz Lake (actually a
reservoir created by the damming of the Walker River) on the California border, one
of the more popular fisheries in the area – and for good reason. Thousands of rainbow
trout are planted here annually to supplement the black bass, bullhead cats and
brown and tiger trout. The terrain is varied enough to allow for trollers, shore anglers
and fly fishermen on the same morning, although boaters are said to be more
successful. There are two boat ramps on the lake. For more information, see below,
under Outfitters, or contact the Nevada Division of Wildlife in Reno, 702-688-
1500.
The East Fork Carson River
The East Fork Carson River between Genoa and Minden south of Carson City is prime
angler’s low country. Rainbow and brook trout are abundant here. Plenty of excellent
spots are also found south of Minden in the Gardnerville area. The Carson River east
of Carson City is another story, however, particularly along the unpaved Fort
Churchill-Wellington Backcountry Byway. During the days of the Comstock Lode
thousands of tons of mercury, used to separate gold and silver from ore, were
dumped into the Carson upriver near Dayton. More than 100 years later, a health
advisory is still in effect.
Squaw Creek Reservoir
About 17 miles north of Gerlach off NV 447, Squaw Creek Reservoir offers primitive
conditions but fine fishing. In his book, Nevada Angler’s Guide, Richard Dickerson
reports that largemouth bass and green sunfish hang out on the north side of the
reservoir, while rainbow, brown and cutthroat trout prowl the colder southern end.
The reservoir is located on private land.
Wall Canyon Reservoir
Another 41 miles north of Squaw Creek Reservoir, a road leaves NV 447 heading east
eight miles to isolated Wall Canyon Reservoir. Rainbow, brown and cutthroat trout are
here for the taking for the adventurous angler. Camping is primitive. Boats with
outboards are permitted, but keep in mind there is no paved boat ramp.
Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge
Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge, in extreme northwestern Nevada on the Oregon
border, boasts a handful of isolated spots, chief among them Dufurena Ponds for
largemouth bass, crappie and perch, and Big Spring Reservior for rainbow and
cutthroat trout. Come prepared; the setting here is primative.

Watersports Outfitters
Reno Mountain Sports, 155 East Moana Lane, 89502, 702-825-2855.
Master Guides
These Reno-Tahoe Territory guides are licensed by the state of Nevada as Master
Guides.
Mickey’s Big Mack Charters, PO Box 815, Tahoe City, CA, 96145, 916-546-4444.
Don’s Fishing Charters, PO Box 10225, Zephyr Cove, NV 89448, 702-588-4916.
Tahoe Sportfishing Co., PO Box 1909, Zephyr Cove, NV 89448, 916-541-5448.
Tahoe Topliners, PO Box 6506, Stateline, NV 89449, 916-573-0753.
Fishing Equipment
These shops are well-versed in up-to-date fishing conditions in Reno-Tahoe Territory.
Reno Fly Shop, 294 East Moana Lane, Reno, NV 89502, 702-827-0600.
The Gilly, 1111 North Rock Boulevard, Sparks, NV 89431, 702-358-6113.
Mark-Fore and Strike Sporting Goods, 490 Kietzke Lane, Reno, NV 89502, 702-
322-9559.

 On Snow
The Nevada side of the Carson Range is home to three well-developed alpine ski
mountains and two cross-country centers.
Mount Rose
To reach the Tahoe Basin’s highest hill from Reno, head southwest from Reno up NV
431 about 22 miles to Mount Rose, 800-SKI-ROSE or 702-849-0704. With a base
elevation of 8,260 feet, the 900-acre area has the highest base and one of the
smallest footprints in the West. There are five chairs covering a maximum of 1,440
vertical feet of runs, equally divided among novice, intermediate and advanced.
Mount Rose also offers lessons, rentals and a shuttle bus. Snowboarders are
welcome.
Diamond Peak Cross-Country & Snowshoe Center
About 12 miles southwest of Mount Rose in Incline Village, Diamond Peak, 1210 Ski
Way, Incline Village, NV, 89451, 800-GO-TAHOE or 702-832-1177, boasts both
downhill and cross-country runs. Alpine skiers and boarders will find seven chairs
covering 755 acres and an impressive vertical drop of 1,840 feet, not to mention
great views of the lake. Lessons, rentals, childcare and a shuttle bus are available.
For cross-country fans, there are 21 miles of marked and groomed trails, lessons,
rentals, day tours and amateur races. Trail passes run $14 for adults ($11 for a half-
day). A $35 Adventure Pass includes trail access and the use of standard Nordic skis,
skate skis, all-terrain skis, and/or snowshoes. A beginner's Nordic package (skis
rental, lesson, trail pass) is $34. Dogs are welcome after noon for a $3 fee.
Spooner Lake Cross-Country Ski Area
Near the intersection of NV 28 and US 50 above the lakeshore, Spooner Lake Cross-
Country, 702-749-5349, is one of the top Nordic destintations in the Sierras. Open
8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekends and holidays, 9 AM to 5 PM during midweek. The area
boasts more than 50 miles of trails ranging from 7,000 to 9,000 feet above sea level.
Trail passes are $15 for adults ($11 for a half-day, $8 after 3 PM). Ask about midweek
specials and package deals, which include a pass, lesson, and rental.
Heavenly
In the southeast corner of the Tahoe Basin is Nevada’s largest ski resort, Heavenly,
800-2-HEAVEN or 702-586-7000. This is a monster of a mountain, with the longest
vertical drop (3,500 feet), the greatest acreage (4,800) and the highest top elevation
(10,040) of any resort in the Tahoe region. Heavenly has 18 chairs, six surface lifts, a
new gondola and the famous tram. Twenty percent of the runs are rated for novices,
45% intermediate and 35% advanced. Lessons, rentals and a shuttle bus are
available. Snowboarders are welcome.
Other Winter Sports
If your preference is to let something else do the work for you on the white stuff,
there are two excellent options – one motorized and one not. For guided snowmobile
treks in the Carson area, call Nevada Outdoor Recreation, 702-831-8361. For a
real adventure (without the gasoline fumes), hook up with the mushers at Husky
Express, 702-782-3047, who offer dog-sledding trips in the Tahoe area.
Snow Sports Outfitters
Equipment can be rented at the resorts mentioned above, as well as the following
locations in Reno-Tahoe Territory.
Incline Village
Porter’s Ski & Sport, 855 Tahoe Boulevard, 89451, 702-831-3500.
Sundance Ski Company, 800 Tahoe Boulevard, 89451, 702-831-3537.
Village Ski Loft at Diamond Peak, 321 Sky Way, 89451, 702-831-2922.
Stateline
House of Ski, 209 Kingsbury, 702-588-5935.

Reno
Cope & McPhetres Boarder’s Paradise, 89502, 2615 Mill Street, 702-786-7071.
Bobo’s Ski Shop, 1200 South Wells Avenue, 89502, 702-786-5111.
Excell Skates, 235 East Plumb Lane, 89502, 702-322-6001.
Galena Ski Rentals, 16975 Mount Rose Highway, 89502, 702-849-0111.
Mogul Mouse, 515 East Moana Lane, 89502, 702-826-9096.
Serva Ski, 140 Vesta Street, 89502, 702-786-2020.
Sierra Mountaineer, 1901 Silverada Boulevard, 89502, 702-358-4824.
Snowind Sports, 2500 East 2nd Street, 89502, 702-323-9463.
Minden
Bike & Ski Sports, 1685 Highway 395 South, 89423, 702-782-0867.
 In The Air
Lake Tahoe Balloons, PO Box 19215, South Lake Tahoe, CA 96151,  916-544-1221,
provides the chance to hover over the maw of the 1,600-foot-deep blue monster and
ponder the meaning of life. In Reno, C&J Flight Aviation, 702-329-5358, offers
fixed-wing tours of The Biggest Little City in the World and Lake Tahoe to the west.
The Douglas County Airport, located off US 395 about five miles south of Carson City,
boasts one of the country’s largest soaring centers. High Country Soaring, 702-
784-4944, offers the closest thing to being reincarnated as a hawk with flights over
Carson Valley, the Sierras and, of course, Lake Tahoe. The question is how can a flight
that’s powerless be so powerful?

Where To Stay & Eat

 Accommodations
Stateline
The southeastern corner of Lake Tahoe is like a drain for all the California gambling
money that crosses the border and sows the seeds of high-rise hotel-casinos. While
they make wilderness preservationists cringe, they do offer some of the best views of
any lodgings anywhere.
There are two four-star establishments here. Harrah’s, 800-648-3773, $$$-$$$$,
offers 534 rooms, poolside service, a dance club, wedding chapel and butler service
in the suites ($199-$950 a night). Harvey’s Resort, 800-427-8397, $$$-$$$$, on
this site since 1944, has 740 rooms, eight restaurants, a shopping arcade and its own
airstrip.
Nearby is Caesars Tahoe, 800-648-3353, $$$-$$$$, which offers 440 rooms in a
15-story tower. The upscale Ridge Tahoe, 800-99-RIDGE, $$$$, has condos and a
private gondola to Heavenly’s Stagecoach Lodge. Tahoe Summit Village, 750 Wells
Fargo Lane, 702-588-8571, $$$-$$$$, also features condo accommodations. Lake
Village Vacations, 398 US 50, 800-635-0066, $$$-$$$$, has two- , three- and four-
bedroom condos two minutes north of the casinos.
Cheaper accommodations can be found at the 539-room Horizon, 800-322-7723, $
$-$$$, and the 124-room Lakeside Inn & Casino, US 50 at Kingsbury Grade, 800-
624-7980, $$. The Zephyr Cove Resort, 702-588-6644,$$-$$$$, has 33 rooms.
Incline Village
This lakeside hamlet is home to one of the state’s finest hotels, the Hyatt Regency
Lake Tahoe, 111 Country Club Drive, 702-832-1234, $$$-$$$$. A perennial four-
star winner, the Hyatt has 458 rooms and offers tennis, lawn games, a private beach
and exercise facilities with instruction.
Adventurers on a somewhat tighter budget can check out the Inn at Incline, 1003
Tahoe Boulevard, 800-824-6391, $$-$$$, which serves free continental breakfast.
The Haus Bavaria B&B, 593 North Dyer Circle, 800-731-6222, $$$, has balconies
adjoining each of its five rooms.
Crystal Bay
At the northern end of Lake Tahoe, the Cal-Neva Resort, 2 Stateline Road, 800-
225-6382, $$-$$$$, combines great views, a rustic feel, 300 rooms and a noisy
casino. The 19-room Crystal Bay Motel, 24 Highway 28, 702-831-0287, $-$$, is
the least expensive inn on the Nevada side of the lake.
Reno
Since Myron Lake first opened an inn near his Truckee River crossing in the early
1860s, Reno-Tahoe Territory has been attracting folks from both east and west. Today,
first-class, high-rise hotel-casinos have sprouted from the banks of the Truckee. Low-
slung motels also abound in Reno, some of which look like they’ve been around since
the 1860s. As in Las Vegas, many hotel-casinos offer midweek specials, and many of
the rooms look exactly alike, giving folks all the more reason to spend time in the
pits.
Among the downtown locations, the big daddy is the Silver Legacy, 407 North
Virginia Street, 800-687-8733, $$, with more than 1,700 rooms on 38 floors. There
is a shopping arcade downstairs, as well as a gym with instructor on site. Harrah’s,
210 North Center Street, 800-427-7247, $$, boasts nearly 600 rooms, a heated pool
and other amenities, including a barber shop. Nearby, the Eldorado, 345 North
Virginia Street, 800-648-5966, $$, is a 26-story giant with more than 800 rooms,
convention facilities and some impressive suites. Circus Circus, 500 North Sierra
Street, 800-723-6500, $$, has a heated pool, free airport shuttle and skier rates.
Away from downtown, the new Peppermill, 2707 South Virginia Street, 800-282-
2444, $$$, rises from the suburbs like an iceberg. It has more than 1,000 rooms, two
heated pools and a hair salon. The Atlantis, farther south of downtown at 3800
South Virginia Street, 800-723-6500, $$, also towers over the local strip malls with
its 18 floors full of 600 rooms.
Adventurers on tighter budgets might try the chain motels first, most notably the
Days Inn, 701 East 7th Street, 702-786-4070, $$, Motel 6, 1901 South Virginia,
702-827-0255, $, and Vagabond Inn, 3131 South Virginia Street, 702-825-7134,
$$. And any adventurer would be lost without the Adventure Inn and Wedding
Chapel, 3575 South Virginia Street, 800-937-1436, $$, which features theme
rooms.
Sparks
Just east of downtown Reno, John Ascuagua’s Nugget, 1100 Nugget Avenue, 800-
648-1177, $$$, has more than 1,700 rooms and all the glitz and glamour of a true
hotel-casino. Freeway convenient, the Motel 6, 702-358-1080, $, welcomes bargain
hunters.
Carson City
The state capital has one large hotel-casino, the venerable Ormsby House Hotel,
600 South Carson Street, 800-622-1890, $$-$$$, which overlooks the state
government center. There are 200 rooms and a kid’s play area. The St. Charles
Hotel, 310 South Carson Street,  702-882-1887, $$-$$$, is a three-story, 25-room
holdover from 1862 that’s filled with antiques. The standout lodgings are at Bliss
Mansion Bed & Breakfast, 710 West Robinson Street,  800-320-0627, $$$$, an
1879 Victorian with four rooms that was the original home of a Carson City pioneer.
Rates start at $195 per night. Another impressive establishment at half the price is
Deer Run Ranch, 5440 Eastlake Boulevard,  702-882-3643, $$, an owner-built,
passive-solar ranch house on a working alfalfa farm.
A number of cheap, generic motels abound in Carson City. Most convenient to
downtown are the City Center, 800 North Carson, 702-882-5535, $-$$, and
Pioneer, 907 South Carson, 702-882-3046, $-$$.
Gardnerville
Built in the late 1800s as a mercantile, the Victorian-style Adaven Hotel, 1435 US
395, 702-782-8720, $$, offers four rooms with private bath and a wedding parlor.
The recently renovated Nenzel Mansion, 1431 Ezell Street, 702-782-7644, $$, was
built in 1910 for Carson Valley merchant Arendt Jensen. It has four rooms. The Topaz
Lodge & Casino, 1979 US 395, 800-962-0732, $-$$, is the center of the action,
with 58 rooms and live entertainment.
Less expensive rooms can be found at Carson Valley Lodge, 1643 US 395, 702-
782-9711, $-$$, and the full-service Carson Valley Inn, 1627 US 395, 800-321-
6983, $$.
Genoa
The state’s first settlement offers quiet lodgings, including the small Genoa House
Inn, 180 Nixon Street, 702-782-7075, $$$. A three-room home listed on the
National Register of Historic Places, the inn was built in 1872 by A.C. Pratt.
Antonucci’s Wild Rose Inn, 2332 Main Street, 702-782-5697, $$$, boasts five
rooms with private bath in a Victorian mansion. The venerable Walley’s Hot
Springs Resort, 2001 Foothill Road, #800-628-7831, $$$, has five rooms.
Virginia City
Three 19th-century landmarks compete for guests here. The quite rustic Gold Hill
Hotel, 1540 Main Street, 702-847-0111, $$-$$$, was established in 1859 and is the
oldest operating hotel in Nevada. There are 13 rooms, 11 with private baths. The
Chollar Mansion, 565 South D Street, 702-847-9777, $$-$$$, was built in 1861
and is on the National Register of Historic Places. It has four rooms, two with private
baths. The Crooked House, 8 South F Street, 702-847-0521, $$, was built in the
late 1800s. Its four rooms were recently refurbished.
Gerlach
The gateway to the Black Rock Desert offers Bruno’s Country Club, 300 Main
Street, 702-557-2220, $, for weary wanderers. The motel has 40 rooms, some with
kitchenettes, and a casino.
Denio Junction
The largest town in remote northern Reno-Tahoe Territory is the site of the Denio
Junction Motel, 702-941-0371, $. The place has 14 rooms, no TVs and, of course, a
casino.
 Restaurants
Stateline
One of the finest rooms anywhere is Friday’s Station at Harrah’s, 702-588-6611.
Open for dinner only, the dining room overlooks Lake Tahoe and specializes in
hardwood grilled steaks and seafood. Another much-loved restaurant is the Sage
Room at Harvey’s, 702-588-2411. Open for dinner only, the menu features wild
game and breads baked on site. The room itself is set in the original Wagon Wheel
Saloon & Gambling Hall, the lake’s first casino. The hotels, along with Caesars Tahoe,
also run the gamut with delis, coffee shops, ethnic food and full buffets.
The Chart House, 328 Kingsbury Grade, 702-588-6276, offers outdoor dining with
views of the lake. Steak, seafood and a salad bar are all on the menu.
Reno
Dining in Reno ranges from copious amounts of fast food to generic hotel-casino fare
and first-class menus. One of the finest restaurants in northern Nevada is
Pimparel’s La Table Française, 3065 West 4th Street, 702-323-3200. The French
cuisine is made with fresh, seasonal ingredients; the menu changes every two
months. The restaurant also does its own baking. Reservations are recommended.
One of the best views in Reno can be found at The 19th Hole, 1200 Razorback
Road, 702-825-1250. Located on the Lakeridge Golf Course, the lights of the city are
a nice appetizer to the seafood and steaks. The 19th Hole is open for lunch and
dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
Famous Murphys, 3127 South Virginia Street, 702-827-4111, is a rousing pub with
good food, including a seafood and oyster bar. The dining room closes at 10 PM and
the bar is open until 4 AM.
For a rustic feel with high-end cuisine, try the Glory Hole, 4201 West 4th Street,
702-786-1323, a steak and seafood joint set in an Old West saloon outfit like a Silver
Rush mining camp. Ichiban, 210 North Sierra Street, 702-323-5550, serves fresh
Japanese steak, seafood and sushi for lunch and dinner.
Among the hotel-casinos, the Eldorado, 234 North Virginia, 702-786-5700, and
Peppermill, 2707 South Virginia Street, 702-826-2121, offer full-blown food courts
open from morning until late in the evening. The large hotels also have 24-hour
coffee shops and specialty restaurants ranging from La Strada at the Eldorado,
702-348-9297, one of the top Italian eateries in country, to Le Moulin at the
Peppermill, 702-689-7226, Trader Dick’s at John Ascuaga’s Nugget, 702-356-
3300, and Empress Garden at the Flamingo Hilton, 255 North Sierra Street, 702-
785-7000.
Carson City
A favorite local breakfast and lunch stop is the Cracker Box, 402 East William Street,
702-882-4556. Those counting cholesterol are advised to stay away, but for a
hearty plate of bacon and eggs or a juicy burger, this is the place.
Heidi’s, 1020 North Carson Street, 702-882-0486, is another neighborly hangout
serving good diner food for breakfast and lunch. The real attraction here is the
colorful murals on the inside walls.
Located in the 19th-century home of a state Supreme Court justice and dressed in
Barbary Coast decor, Adele’s, 1112 North Carson Street, 702-882-3353, is known
as one of the city’s upper-crust establishments. Open for lunch and dinner Monday
through Saturday. Specialties of this high-end house include seafood and roast duck.
There is also an extensive wine list. Note that Adele’s is closed the week between
Christmas and New Year’s.
Two blocks away, Silvana’s, 1301 North Carson Street, 702-883-5100, is open for
dinner only Tuesday through Saturday. Boasting a large Italian menu, Silvana’s
specializes in pasta, seafood and steak.
The Carson Nugget Steak House, 507 North Carson Street, 702-882-1626, is
known for protein-powered Western cuisine. The Carson Nugget also offers the
ubiquitous all-you-can-eat buffet and a 24-hour coffee shop.
South of the city center and south of the border, El Charro Avitia, 4389 South
Carson Street, 702-883-6261, is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays, dinner only
on weekends. El Charro is known for miles around for its fresh and filling Mexican
fare.
Virginia City
The Crown Point Restaurant, 1540 Main Street, 702-847-0111, adjacent to the
1859 Gold Hill Hotel, serves fine French cuisine.
 Camping
The US Forest Service Carson Ranger District, 702-882-2766, operates a
number of campgrounds in Nevada and California north and south of Lake Tahoe. On
the Nevada side, Mount Rose Campground is 30 miles southwest of Reno off NV
431. Set at 8,900 feet, the campground has 24 sites, nine for RVs. Open June through
September, Mount Rose has running water. The overnight fee is $7.
On the Lake Tahoe shoreline, the Forest Service runs Nevada Beach Campground,
916-573-2600. Open May through October, the campground has 54 sites and
running water. The overnight rate is $12.
Smack in the Reno city limits are three RV/trailer parks catering to visitors. The
largest is behind the Reno Hilton, 2500 East 2nd Street, 702-789-2000, with 265
sites starting at around $20 per night. On the other side of town is Chism Trailer
Park, 1300 West 2nd Street, 702-322-2281, with 152 sites and rates around $15
per night. Reno RV Park, 735 Mill Street, 702-323-3381, lies south of the river.
Rates run about $18 per night.
Camping at Washoe Lake State Park, 702-687-4319, off NV 428 about 15 miles
south of Reno, is limited to 24 mostly unshaded sites along the shore. The nightly fee
is $5. Showers are available. The campground is extremely popular in summer
months.
If Washoe Lake is full – or even if it isn’t – an excellent choice is Davis Creek County
Park, approximately 20 miles south of Reno on NV 429. There are 44 campsites here,
some for RVs and some for tents. There are even walk-in sites set amid pine trees.
Nightly fees are $6.
Prime camping in the foothills of the Sierra Nevadas is available about 25 miles south
of Gardnerville at Topaz Lake, which straddles the Nevada-California border.
Fishermen flock to the 100 developed and undeveloped campsites most weekends.
For information and fees, call 702-266-3343.
About 30 miles east of Carson City via US 50 and ALT US 95 south, Fort Churchill
State Historic Park has 20 sites with a dump station and running water amid the
trees near the Carson River. Simply wonderful.
The Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge is dotted with no less than 11 mostly
undeveloped campgrounds. Most of the sites are in the northern part of the refuge,
including Virgin Valley, Big Spring Reservoir, Gooch Spring and West Rock Spring. Call
the Cedarville, California, office of the BLM, 916-279-6101, for more information.
Pony Express
Territory
Like an artery running through the center of Nevada, Pony Express Territory follows a
corridor paralleling US 50 from the outskirts of Reno east to the Utah border. The
region is so labeled by the Nevada Commission on Tourism because for 18 months
the Pony Express galloped through the heart of Nevada on its regular route between
St. Joseph, Missouri, and Sacramento, California. Beginning in April 1860, the gutsy
riders, station masters and horses (there really were no ponies) risked the elements
and attacks by Native Americans to move the mail from east to west. Want ads called
for “Young, skinny, wiry fellows not over eighteen... willing to risk death daily.
Orphans preferred.” Riders, carrying only a pistol, Bible and mail pouch, tore between
stations, pausing only long enough to change mounts. Incredibly, the delivery time
was as little as 10 days, but that wasn’t fast enough for a quickly expanding nation.
On October 24, 1861, the first telegraph message was transmitted between the Pony
Express termini. Four days later the riders and horses were put out to pasture for
good.
Today remnants of a few Pony Express stations and the route – the old trail roughly
follows the path of US 50 – and reminders of those rip-roaring days when the frontier
was still wide open can be found scattered about the region. Dubbed “The Loneliest
Road in America” by LIFE Magazine in 1986 and touted as such unashamedly by local
chambers of commerce, US 50 is also the springboard to many outdoor adventures.
In the west is the farm town of Fallon and a 16-mile-long reservoir. Within an hour of
Fallon are one of the most popular waterfowl stops on the Pacific Flyway, one of the
most acclaimed petroglyph sites in the Great Basin and a 60-story sand dune.
Near the geographic center of Nevada and near and dear to its heart, the tiny burg of
Austin is a surprisingly active outdoor-minded community. Surrounded on three sides
by the Toiyabe National Forest, Austin is the gateway to fantastic mountain biking
and some of the best backpacking in the state on the Toiyabe Crest National
Recreation Trail. South of Austin, a unique state park and a handful of the largest
wilderness areas in Nevada wait to be discovered.
A trek through the rolling landscape of basin and range continues east toward the
living relic of Eureka, Humboldt National Forest and a handful of eerie ghost towns.
Near the town of Ely, which is another thriving adventure-oriented community, there
is excellent skiing, hiking and wildlife viewing. Just a few hours from Ely, one of the
nation’s newest and most unspoiled national parks, Great Basin, spans some of the
most beautiful, glacier-carved peaks, ridges and valleys in the country.
The customary luxuries of swank hotels and four-star meals are hard to come by in
Pony Express Territory, especially now that the free-wheeling gold and silver rushes
are things of the distant past. But if you consider solitude, uncrowded trails and mind-
bending scenery to be luxuries too, this area has plenty to offer.
Ranging in elevation from 3,963 feet in Fallon to nearly 12,000 feet in the Toquima
and Toiyabe ranges and 13,063 feet on Wheeler Peak in Great Basin National Park,
the area boasts almost unlimited opportunities for adventure. It also harbors a wildly
varying climate, so be prepared for anything. The basins are dominated by typical
high desert weather: hot dry summers that top out in the 90s and chilly winters that
bring occasional rain and snowstorms. In the higher mountains, thunder showers and
heavy snows are possible almost any time of year. As might be expected, traveler’s
services are scarce along “The Loneliest Road in America.” Towns are separated by at
least 70 miles along the highway so drive a vehicle in excellent condition and pack
extras of everything.

Touring
A count of out-of-state license plates along the breadth of US 50 shows equal parts
Californians and Utahns, with some Oregonians and Arizonans thrown in. But most
travelers enter Pony Express Territory from the west at the convenient gateway of
Reno. I-80 heads east out of Reno and meets ALT 50 about 33 miles away in Fernley.
ALT 50 then runs 19 miles southeast to connect with US 50. US 50 is also directly
accessible east of the capital of Carson City.
 Fallon
A good place to stock up on supplies before the trek eastward, Fallon is also worth at
least a couple of hours of any adventurer’s time. During the busiest days of the
Emigrant Trail, pioneers rested near here after crossing the notorious Forty-Mile
Desert. They invariably washed their dusty clothes in the Carson River and hung
them on trees to dry, inspiring the outpost’s first name: Ragtown. Today Fallon is a
bustling little hamlet of nearly 8,000 people.
The Churchill County Museum & Archives, 1050 South Maine Street, 702-423-
3677, is a must-stop for anyone interested in Nevada history. Over 14,000 square
feet are packed with exhibits depicting the life of local Native Americans and the
pioneers who helped close the frontier. The museum also houses county records
dating back to the 1860s as well as more than 100,000 photographic images. April
through December, the museum is open Monday through Saturday from 10 AM to
5 PM, and Sunday noon to 5 PM. January through March, the hours are Monday
through Saturday from 10 AM to 4 PM, Sunday, noon to 4 PM and closed Wednesday.
Admission is free.
About 17 miles west of Fallon via US 50 is Lahontan State Recreation Area, 702-
867-3500, encompassing a man-made lake that takes its name from the prehistoric
inland sea that once covered most of northwestern Nevada. With 10,000 acres of
surface area and 70 miles of sandy shoreline, the lake is a favorite getaway spot for
locals. (See On Water, below.)
On the northeastern edge of Fallon, the Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge, 1000
Auction Road, 702-423-5128, covers 77,500 acres of one of the most important
stops on the Pacific Flyway. In peak years, the refuge shelters upwards of 350,000
ducks and an equal number of shorebirds, as well as the state’s largest population of
wintering bald eagles. White-faced ibis, snowy plovers, pelicans, green-winged teals,
canvasbacks, peregrine falcons, great blue herons and whistling swans are other
commonly found species. In recent years, flooding at Stillwater has exposed ancient
Native American villages, burial sites and artifacts dating back 300 to 3,000 years.
The marshes here are subject to the whims of wet and dry years, as well as water
diversion for agricultural use, often a bone of contention between farmers and
conservationists. Note that the refuge is surrounded by the Stillwater Wildlife
Management Area, and “management” means hunting. The hunting season usually
opens in October, but visitors should call first for exact dates and safety tips.
Just east of town, on the Fallon Indian Reservation on Stillwater Road, Round
House Art Gallery is the workshop of one of America’s most successful native
artists. Adam Fortunate Eagle, a Chippewa and Native American activist who
organized the occupation of Alcatraz between 1969 and ’71, is the artist in residence
here. Besides regaling visitors with his tales, Fortunate Eagle sells beautiful Native
American works of art. At press time, he was in the process of building Earth Lodge
Museum & Gallery out of recycled tires and other detritus of modern society.
On the south end of town, near the intersection of Pasture and Berney roads, Naval
Air Station Fallon has occupied this site for almost 50 years. From prop-driven
torpedo bombers to today’s supersonic jets, NAS Fallon has long been a proving
ground for Naval Aviators. Forget what you’ve seen in the movies – this is the home
of the real Top Gun Navy Fighter Weapons School. Every spring, the station hosts one
of the country’s largest air shows, which features the famous Blue Angels.
The roar of Navy warplanes can even be heard at Grimes Point Archaeological
Area, located eight miles southeast of Fallon off US 50. One of the finest petroglyph
sites in the West, Grimes Point offers a number of short trails that bring visitors eye
to eye with the mysterious etchings on the dark boulder faces. Over 8,000 years ago,
this area on the then-lush shores of Lake Lahontan was popular with Native
Americans. Just off the highway are two short trails, one through a boulder field and
another to a lookout atop Grimes Point. About 1½ miles northeast of the boulders
along a gravel road, Hidden Cave Trail leads a half-mile to a one-time shelter and
storeroom for the original Nevadans. More than 21,000 years of stratigraphy are
exposed in the cave, which is open only twice a month for guided tours. Free tours
begin at the Churchill County Museum in Fallon (see above) on the second and
fourth Saturday of each month.
About 25 miles east of Fallon, the low, dark, volcanic-rock walls of the Sand Springs
Pony Express Station are relatively well-preserved reminders of the wild, wild
West. A team of archeologists dug out the station in 1976 and the location was
named a National Historic Site. Near the station, a fenced (to protect it from off-road
vehicles) 40-acre tract called the Sand Springs Desert Study Area welcomes
walkers to glimpse the landscape the way it was when the horses tore through here.
There is a half-mile interpretive trail with signs describing the flora, fauna, geology
and history of the region.
Adjacent to the study area (listen for the whine of motors), Sand Mountain is a 600-
foot-high, one-mile-wide dune outlined against the brown, volcanic cliffs around it.
Called a seif dune after the Arabic word “sayf,” meaning sword, the top of Sand
Mountain cuts a sharp edge that drops off steeply on the leeward side. A hike to the
precipice is a safe, but strenuous, undertaking – like climbing the stairs of a
skyscraper with wet newspapers for feet – but well worth the effort. But beware: the
area is a popular off-road vehicle recreation site. If the roar of engines ever dies
down, listen for the mountain’s “singing.” Booms, roars and moans, caused by
billions of sand particles rubbing together, regularly emanate from the dune.
Information Sources

Fallon Convention & Visitors Authority, 100 Campus Way, Fallon, NV 89406,
702-423-4556.
Greater Fallon Area Chamber of Commerce, 379 West William Avenue, Fallon, NV
89406, 702-423-2544.

 Austin
On the way from Fallon to Austin, about three miles past West Gate, keep a sharp eye
out on the north side of the road for the shoe tree. One of the only trees for miles
around is mysteriously hung with dozens of pairs of discarded shoes. Beyond the tree
about 13 miles is the site of Cold Springs Pony Express station, as well as
Overland Mail and telegraph stations. A 1½-mile trail leads to the remains of the Pony
Express stop.
From here US 50 heads over the Desatoya Mountains at New Pass and drops into the
wide Reese River Valley, then climbs again to Austin, population about 300. Set on
the feet of the Toiyabe Range at 6,577 feet, Austin is a quiet, picturesque holdover
from the days of the mineral rushes. Legend has it that in 1862 a horse belonging to
either a former Pony Express rider or an Overland Mail employee kicked loose a rock
unveiling silver ore in nearby Pony Canyon. However the rush began, the fact is that
by the 1870s more than 10,000 treasure hunters had poured into the area and the
town exploded with activity. As always, the boom was followed by the bust, but some
of the historic buildings constructed in the 19th century stand along Main Street (US
50) – including three beautiful churches – bearing silent witness to that bygone era.
Today Austin is the center of a ranching and mining economy, as well as the
launchpad for some of the best mountain biking and fishing in Nevada (see
Adventures below).
A guide to the 16-stop walking tour, which includes the 1863 newspaper office, 1864
Gridley store and 1897 Stokes Castle, is available from the Greater Austin
Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 212, Austin, NV 89310, 702-964-2200. The office
is located in the Austin Courthouse.
Two dramatic dirt-road driving tours leave Austin and head southeast of town. Both
drives are described on a map available from the Austin Chamber of Commerce. The
dirt roads are generally passable during good weather, but always check conditions
before heading out and learn to expect the unexpected in this remote region.
The first tour leaves Austin south of Stokes Castle on US Forest Service Road 002 and
follows Big Creek to a campground at mile 13. Climbing steeply to a summit at 8,350
feet, the road descends toward Kingston Creek and its narrow canyon, then past
Groves Lake and another campground at mile 24. Three miles later, the double-track
runs through the town of Kingston Village, then to paved NV 376, which rolls north 20
miles back to the junction with US 50, 13 miles east of Austin. The experienced
guides-for-hire at Mustang Outfitters, 702-964-2145, PO Box 1149, Round
Mountain, NV 89045, know the ins and outs of Kingston Canyon and the surrounding
Toiyabe National Forest.
The other driving tour departs Austin and heads east on US 50, past Bob Scott
campground, then south on NV 376 for a quarter-mile to US Forest Service Road 001
(Pete’s Summit Road). Six miles later, Spencer’s Hot Springs, a series of three
pools that was once home to a long-gone resort, are open to visitors just off the road.
A long, hot soak with views of the Toiyabes to the west and the 11,000-footers of the
Toquima Range to the east works wonders for weary travelers. At mile 30, near Pete’s
Summit, a short walking trail leads to Toquima Cave, which boasts a set of
mesmerizing pictographs made by the ancient Shoshone. Judging by the materials
analyzed in the pictographs, the aboriginals brought their paints many miles to mark
this important spot between 200 and 1,500 years ago. Over the summit and onto the
eastern feet of the Toquimas, the road runs through Sam’s Canyon, then heads due
south to Diana’s Punchbowl at mile 44. The punchbowl is a 50-foot-wide pool worn
into the top of a white, travertine hill that is visible for miles around. The hill is
located on private land, accessible through a gate on the east side of the road. Be
sure to close all gates on your way in and out. An easy hike leads to the pool’s lip,
which drops 30 feet straight down into the water. Use caution here and stay out of
the pool. A series of safe, small hot pools are found at the base of the hill. At mile 55,
the tour heads west on US Forest Service Road 023 into Perkins Canyon, passing
Northumberland Cave seven miles later. The limestone cavern, situated on a
hillside on the west side of the road, is recommended for serious, experienced cavers
only. Just across Northumberland Pass (7,430 feet) a view of an open pit gold mine
proves that Nevada’s mineral riches haven’t lost their allure. The road heads
northwest through Big Smoky Valley, surrounded by tall pillars of rock rising on both
sides. After merging with Lower Mine Road, the route hits NV 376 at mile 73 and zips
north back to US 50.
Twenty-four miles east of Austin on US 50, Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area
is maintained under the jurisdiction of the BLM Battle Mountain District, PO Box 1420,
Battle Mountain, NV 89820, 702-635-4000. The area is easily accessible (except
after winter snowfalls) via a one-mile dirt access road running north from the
highway. The petroglyphs were made by Native Americans between 500 and 1,000
years ago. BLM brochures are available at the beginning of a short trail that winds
among the rocks. There are good examples of both scratched and pecked glyphs, as
well as many markings made in the curved-line style of the central Great Basin.
There is also a free campground here.
Information Sources

Greater Austin Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 212, Austin, NV 89310, 702-964-

2200. The office is located in the Austin Courthouse.

 Eureka
About 70 miles east of Austin, another relatively well-preserved Nevada boom town,
Eureka, stretches for about a mile along US 50 in a narrow canyon below Richmond
Mountain. The state’s No. 2 mineral-producing region in the 19th century (behind
Virginia City), Eureka was the site of a silver discovery in 1864. Not until five years
later, however, was the process perfected for superheating the ore to separate the
lead from the silver. The numerous smelters in the area left the air choked with
smoke and fumes and earned the town the nickname “Pittsburgh of the West.”
Respiratory diseases were common and every tree for 50 miles around eventually fell
victim to the furnaces. By 1878, Eureka’s population of 9,000 made it the second-
largest city in the state. But by 1890 the rush was over. Still, the first 100 years of
mining in the region produced about $110 million in minerals.
Gold mines, found in the valleys around Eurkea, are still a major facet of the local
economy, but today the air is crystal clear and a few large slag heaps are all that
remain of the smelters. The main attraction here is the dozens of silver-rush-era
buildings still standing, some a little less gloriously than others, but most definitely
worth a gander. For more information and a self-guided tour pamphlet detailing 47
historic sites, contact the Eureka Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 14, Eureka, NV
89316,  702-237-5484.
A highlight is the Eureka County Courthouse, completed in 1880 and still in use
today. The building, open weekdays 8 AM to 5 PM, boasts pressed-tin ceilings and a
judge’s bench made of imported Spanish cedar. The Eureka Sentinel Museum on
Monroe Street was built in 1879 and served as the home office of the newspaper until
it ceased publishing in 1960. Today the museum displays artifacts from the town’s
glory years. It is open 9 AM to 5 PM daily from April through September, and Tuesday
through Saturday from October through March. Two other living relics are the two-
story Tatti’s Saloon, where the coalburners union was formed by Italian-Americans
in 1879, and the Jackson House Hotel. The shell of the building, which is still in use
as a bed and breakfast, dates from 1877. But the grand dame of the town is the
Eureka Opera House, one of the most extravagant in the West when built in 1880,
complete with a shock-absorbing floor to withstand years of dancing. It fell into
disrepair until 1991 when Eureka rallied around an effort to restore it. Singer Eddie
Rabbit rechristened the place with a concert in 1994, and today it serves as an
auditorium and community center. The Opera House is open 8 AM-5 PM, Monday
through Friday and by appointment.
Information Sources

Eureka Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 14, Eureka, NV 89316,  702-237-5484.

 Ghost Towns
From Eureka, US 50 rolls across basin and range, over Pancake Summit and Little
Antelope Summit, about 35 miles to an intersection with US Forest Service Road 401,
running south into the Humboldt National Forest. About 12 miles down the road is the
ghost town of Hamilton, first called Cave City when it was founded following an
1867 silver strike, because the prospectors lived in caves and dugouts rather than
waste time building homes. Thousands once scampered through this canyon in
search of silver ore, but today only a few buildings and foundations remain. A few
miles farther south, the ghost hamlets of Treasure City, Shermantown and
Eberhardt haunt the area. Situated at 9,000 feet, Treasure City had seven saloons
for its 1,500 residents. Other fun facts: Shermantown was named for Civil War hero
William Tecumseh Sherman, and Eberhardt once boasted a fine post office and
school.
 Ely
Back on US 50, the road takes travelers out of the White Pine Range, across Jakes
Valley and about 37 miles across the wide-open spaces to Ely. Pronounced EE-lee, this
mini-city (population about 5,000) is like a shining ore pocket amid the sagebrush
and rabbitbrush of the Great Basin. Sitting on the junction of US 50 and US 93, the
town has also become something of a hub for local adventure seekers. Entering town
at night can be quite dramatic, with the flashing lights of this desert queen glowing
eerily amid the all-encompassing blackness of the Great Basin.
One of the most popular spots in town is the Northern Nevada Railway Museum,
PO Box 150040, East Ely, NV 89301, 702-289-2085, located on East 11th Street.
This is really a whistle-blast from the past, when the railroads were the state’s
lifeline, taking minerals out and goods and miners into Nevada. The flagships at the
museum are two steam locomotives: a 1909 American Locomotive 2-8-0 and a 1910
4-6-0 Baldwin Steamer. Rail trips pulled by these antique beauties, as well as an
original, turn-of-the-century diesel ore train, depart on selected dates from May
through September. Call for exact dates and times. Prices start at $10 per person.
Tours of the railroad yard, depot, engine house, machine and blacksmith shops and
other historical locations are offered Tuesday through Sunday for $2.50 per person.
The White Pine Public Museum, 2000 Aultman Street, 702-289-4710, like many
museums in this territory, is charming for its displays of everyday artifacts from
Nevada’s pioneering days: a piano, clothing, accessories, furniture, a bicycle. The
museum, open weekdays 9 AM to 4 PM and weekends 10 AM to 4 PM, also pays
homage to perhaps the most famous Ely native, former First Lady Pat Nixon.
Admission is free.
The less mundane adventures in the Ely area begin not far from town. About six miles
southwest on US 6 are five miles of cross-country skiing trails at White Pine. On the
other side of town, US 50 runs southeast about five miles to Cave Valley Road, which
heads due south alongside the Egan Range 11 miles to Ward Charcoal Ovens
State Historic Monument. The row of six 30-foot-high beehive-shaped ovens was
constructed in 1876 and used to convert pinyon pine trees – 30 acres at a time in
each kiln – into charcoal to fuel the region’s numerous ore smelters. Since they went
cold in the 1880s, the ovens were used for awhile as horse barns. There is primitive
camping here.
Return to US 50, head southeast for about two miles and turn due east on NV 486
(Success Summit Road) to reach Cave Lake State Park, 702-728-4467. Set among
the pinyon pine and juniper at 7,300 feet, the park’s main draw is a 32-acre reservoir.
There are also two campgrounds with a total of 36 sites, running water, showers and
hiking trails, which become cross-country ski routes in winter months.
Starting in late fall, one of Nevada’s best-known natural spectacles takes place in the
Ely Elk Viewing Area, which begins about eight miles southeast of town adjacent to
US 50. Rocky Mountain elk descend from the cold of the Schell Creek Range and
congregate here near the highway, sometimes by the hundreds. Sightings of huge
six-point bulls are something that won’t be forgotten. For more information, contact
the Ely office of the BLM, 702-289-4865.
Information Sources
White Pine Chamber of Commerce, 636 Aultman Street, 702-289-8877.
Bristlecone Convention Center, 150 6th Street, 800-496-9350.

 Great Basin National Park

If your odyssey across Pony Express Territory began in Reno, this federally protected
wonderland near the Nevada-Utah border makes all the miles seem worth it. It’s still
a long leg east of Ely on US 50, 56 miles and a trip over Sacramento Pass to NV 487
south. That leads quickly to Baker, the tiny town that serves as the park’s unofficial
gateway. From Baker, drive six miles west into the Snake Range to reach the park’s
visitor center.
Designated a national park in October, 1986, Great Basin is not only one of the
country’s newest parks but also one of the least known. Only about 70,000 people a
year visit the park, the vast majority of them milling around the visitors center,
702-234-7331, Lehman Caves and the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive. Most of the
77,000 acres of parkland are untraveled, untamed backcountry, well-suited for foot-
propelled adventure. While hikers are welcome, mountain bikes are barred from trails
and backcountry use and are allowed only on park roads. Check with rangers about
access to Great Basin’s dirt fireroads.
As mind-blowingly beautiful as the park is, it did not come into being without a
protracted struggle. In 1922, a proposal to create a 6,000-acre national monument
centered on the wondrous Lehman Caves was scaled back to 640 acres after
bickering by local ranchers. In the 1950s a plan for a 150,000-acre national park was
again rebuffed by local interests. Conservationists not only had to settle for the
28,000-acre Wheeler Peak Scenic Area, but were then forced to fight off plans for
paved roads, ski resorts and tramways. Finally, in 1986, after haggling over acreage
figures ranging from 174,000 to 44,000, Congress settled on 77,086-acre Great Basin
National Park. While celebrating a victory, environmentalists still decry the fact that
the park service respects the livestock grazing rights (granted by the US Forest
Service) of ranchers who were here before the park’s lines were drawn. And even if
the invasive livestock were banned, there are concerns that the park may be woefully
small to preserve a healthy, diverse Great Basin ecosystem within its present
boundaries.
All this doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the views of (and from the top of) 13,067-foot
Wheeler Peak, the park’s crown jewel; nor the subterranean glory of Lehman Caves,
which is actually one huge cavern. Although Native Americans knew of the cavern, by
far Great Basin’s most popular attraction, the first white discoverer was Absalom
Lehman, who in the spring of 1885 marveled at the strange calcite formations, or
speleotherms: stalactites, stalagmites, columns, draperies, flowstone and soda
straws, among others. Lehman Caves is also well-known for its marvelous shield
formations. Tours of the cavern, limited to 30 people at a time, are held every day
except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. Tickets are available at the
visitors center or as far as 30 days in advance by calling 702-234-7331 x242. Prices
are $4 for adults, $3 for juniors.
Besides checking out Lehman Caves, most folks take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive
to catch roadside views of the mountain, then head straight out of the park. The
more adventurous visitor will be unable to resist putting feet to trail to come face to
face with Great Basin’s famous bristlecone pines (known as the planet’s oldest living
things) and the sole glacier between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch Mountains. The
high-altitude campgrounds, too, are hard to beat. (See On Foot and Camping, below.)
Note that the road above the visitors center is closed by snow during winter months.
Call ahead for conditions.
Information Sources
Great Basin National Park, Baker, NV 89311-9702, 702-234-7331.

Adventures
 On Foot
Garnet Hill Recreation Area
Just west of Ely, rock hounds will enjoy kicking stones at Garnet Hill Recreation Area.
Set at 7,600 feet, Garnet Hill hides its dark red semiprecious crystals inside the pink
rhyolite found everywhere. True rock hounds search the ground for darker areas
where the garnet crystals have eroded from the rock. The garnets found here, a few
of which are even of gem quality, are spessartite, or magnesium-aluminum garnet. To
reach Garnet Hill, take US 50 west from Ely and turn north just past the exit for Ruth.
Drive three miles to the recreation area, which has picnic tables and shade trees.
Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail
An incredible multiday hiking journey begins south of Austin on the Toiyabe Crest
National Recreation Trail. To reach the trailhead in Kingston Canyon, either take
unpaved US Forest Service Road 002 south from US 50 in Austin about 22 miles, or
use paved NV 376, which runs north-south through Big Smoky Valley, to reach the
village of Kingston. From here it’s only about eight miles west on the unpaved road to
the trailhead.
The entire Toiyabe Crest Trail runs 67 miles from the trailhead, along the spine of the
Toiyabe Range in Toiyabe National Forest, south into Arc Dome Wilderness. The
trail begins in Kingston Canyon at about 7,500 feet and climbs quickly to over
10,000 feet. Snow is common even in summer at these altitudes, which can take a
few days to get acclimated to. Be aware that this trail was constructed during the
Great Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps and has been maintained only
sporadically since then. Hikers should possess good compass skills and the ability to
decipher the following USGS topo maps: Brewer Canyon, Millet Ranch, Tierney Creek,
South Toiyabe Peak, Carvers NW, Arc Dome, Bakeoven Creek. More maps and
information are available through the US Forest Service Austin Ranger District,
702-964-2671.
Mount Moriah Wilderness
As stunning as it is isolated, one of the Great Basin’s loneliest hiking areas is the
82,000-acre Mount Moriah Wilderness, situated in the Snake Range and surrounded
by Humboldt National Forest north of Great Basin National Park. The
wilderness, set aside in 1989, can be reached only on unpaved roads and is at least
an hour’s drive from the nearest Nevada town, Baker. The area’s claims to fame are
The Table, a unique, 1,000-acre, high-elevation plateau covered with subalpine
vegetation and bristlecone pine; and Mount Moriah, which at 12,067 feet is the
fifth-highest peak in the state. The summit is reached via a difficult 23-mile round-trip
hike that covers more than 5,000 feet of lung-clenching vertical gain. To reach the
trailhead from the junction of US 50 and NV 487 (the road to Baker), head north on
unpaved Silver Creek Road almost 11 miles to a dirt road marked with a sign
indicating a four-mile drive to the trailhead at Hendrys Creek. This rough road
through the old Hatch quarrying area, which may be impassable when wet, is marked
with trailhead signs. From the trailhead/parking area, follow the Hendrys Creek
drainage about 1½ miles to the wilderness boundary, eventually reaching a beautiful
forest of aspens after a steep ascent. Tree-lined meadows offer fine camping spots on
The Table, where ancient bristlecone pine and limber pine are commonly found. After
about 10 miles of hiking, the Hendrys Creek Trail intersects with the Hampton
Creek Trail, which heads west toward the peak. The trail ends just before the
summit. Bring along USGS topo maps for Mount Moriah, Old Man’s Canyon and The
Cove, as well as all the water you will need. Contact the US Forest Service Ely
Ranger District, 702-289-3031 for more information.

At Great Basin National Park, don’t be fooled by your experiences on tourist-friendly

trails found at other national parks. This is some serious high-country hiking, with
many trails climbing above 10,000 feet along rocky, windswept paths. Watch for
signs of altitude sickness (dizziness, nausea, headache, difficulty breathing) and
descend if they appear. Sturdy hiking boots and layers of weather-resistant clothing
are a must, as is carrying plenty of water for each person. Because thunderstorms
can blow up mountain slopes in a matter of minutes, check weather forecasts at the
visitors center before heading out. If threatening clouds approach, leave the high
country immediately.

Wheeler Peak Trail

The Wheeler Peak Trail provides access to one of the most incredible peaks in the
West. At 13,063 feet, Wheeler Peak is the second-highest point in Nevada (Boundary
Peak in the White Mountains on the Nevada-California border is tops at 13,140) and
towers over the park’s glacier-carved valleys and cirques. To reach the summit, begin
at the signed parking lot on the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive, a half-mile above
Wheeler Peak campground. The 10-mile round-trip starts near 10,000 feet and climbs
moderately for the first mile, where it meets the Alpine Lakes Trail. Continue straight,
then take a right at the next intersection and start climbing toward a large meadow.
Soon the trail reaches an exposed ridge and heads south. Finally, the last 1,000 feet
of trail toward the summit are steep and often covered with snow and ice. Use
extreme caution here. If it is safe to venture to the peak, the views of the 8,000-foot
vertical drop to the valley floor are some of the grandest in the country. In 1878,
legendary naturalist and Sierra Club founder John Muir passed this way.
The Alpine Lakes Trial
The Alpine Lakes Trial is a three-mile loop that passes beautiful Stella and Teresa
lakes. This route begins at a signed trailhead about a half-mile beyond the Wheeler
Peak trailhead and climbs moderately for about a mile before intersecting with the
Wheeler Peak Trail. Turn left here and go a few hundred yards to another junction,
then turn left again. Follow the path going southwest and begin the short trek toward
Stella Lake. The bowl, or cirque, in which Stella Lake rests was formed by the
grinding action of a glacier. The trail circles the lake and heads across the loose rock
field left behind by the retreating glacier, then descends to Teresa Lake. This is
another depression etched by a glacier. The trail skirts the north shore of the lake and
follows Lehman Creek northeast for a few hundreds yards to a trail junction. Turn left
here and hike back toward the trailhead to complete the loop.
Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail
Another short hike on the Bristlecone Pine-Glacier Trail leads to just those: a grove of
the trees known as the Earth’s oldest living things and the last remaining glacier
between the Sierra Nevada and Wasatch ranges. From the Alpine Lakes Trailhead
parking lot, the six-mile round-trip begins with a steady climb for about a half-mile to
an intersection. Turn left, heading east-northeast over a ridge until the trail turns
right and crosses the field of rocks and boulders left behind by the melting glacier. A
small interpretive loop trail begins here and heads toward a bristlecone pine grove.

Living only in these harsh, subalpine conditions, the bristlecone is unlike any other
tree on Earth. A specimen found here in the 1960s was aged at 4,950 years, and
even a single needle might be 40 years old.

The main trail continues south about another half-mile to a dead end at the glacier,
which experts tell us is technically an ice field because it does not move. Return the
way you came.
Baker Lake Trail
An amazing alpine-country overnight backpacking trip begins and ends at the
terminus of Baker Creek Road, a four-mile drive south of the visitors center and a
half-mile beyond Baker Creek campground. The 16-mile Baker Lake Trail round-trip
gains 2,700 feet in the first seven miles, starting straight up the Baker Creek
drainage. The trail passes a few beautiful meadows and stands of fir and aspen.
Around mile six, the trail begins to switchback and climb away from the creek. This is
the time to begin looking for Baker Lake, set in a gorgeous glacial cirque surrounded
by high peaks. In good weather, this is a nice overnight stop.
To continue the loop hike, backtrack about a half-mile to locate the Johnson Lake
Trail, which branches to the south along a path the National Park Services describes
as “primitive.” Follow this exposed route toward 11,926-foot Pyramid Peak, just off to
the east, then wind around to the south side of the peak to find tiny Johnson Lake,
once the site of some mining activity. To return to the trailhead, begin a sometimes
steep eight-mile descent and stick to the left at each fork you encounter. After about
three miles, the trail heads north into the South Fork Baker Creek drainage and
follows the creek all the way back to the trailhead.

Anyone who wants to explore the Great Basin National Park backcountry should
check first with rangers for trail conditions and bring along USGS topos for Windy
Peak, Lehman Caves, Wheeler Peak, Kious Spring, Minerva Canyon and Arch Canyon.

Hiking Outfitters
Fallon

Sage-N-Pine Guide & Outfitter, 1707 Rice Road, 89406, 702-423-6171.

Wildlife West Guide Service, 5030 Reno Highway, 89406, 702-867-
3388.
The following offer trail rides or riding lessons:
Dankae Arabians, 3125 Stark Lane, 89406, 702-423-5185.
Flying M Stables, 2005 Harrigan Road, 89406, 702-423-9215.
Silver State Stables, 2011 Indian Lakes Road, 89406, 702-423-9215.
Ely

Bull Ridge Guide Service, 203 Heritage Drive, 89301, 702-289-4208.

Burdick Guide Service, HCR 33, Box 33570, 89301, 702-235-7439.
J & P Auto Parts, 1050 Aultman Street, 89301, 702-289-3063.
Great Basin Inn, 701 Avenue F, 89301, 702-289-4468.
White River Guide Service, HC 34, PO Box 34005, 89301, 702-238-5232.
Sportsworld, 189 Aultman Street, 89301, 702-289-8886, sells camping and
outdoor equipment.
Wendover
George A. Daum, PO Box 2560, 89883, 702-664-2977.

 On Wheels
Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex
If the roar of engines raises your hackles, Top Gun Raceway Motor Sports Complex,
800-874-0903, located 15 miles east of Fallon on US 95, is worth a gander. As of
presstime, a quarter-mile, state-of-the-art dragstrip had been completed and races
were underway. Plans were also set for both a three-mile off-road-vehicle track and
an Indy-car oval.
Sand Mountain
If you’d rather participate than watch, off-road mavens of all shapes and sizes are
encouraged to grind their gears at Sand Mountain, the six-story, two-mile-long sand
dune rising out of the sagebrush about 25 miles east of Fallon. Dune-buggy, ATV and
motorcycle riders descend on the mountain (then try mightily to ascend the
mountain) at the rate of 35,000 per year. All vehicles are required to have spark
arresters and a bright orange flag extending at least eight-feet high. There is
primitive camping at the base of the mountain with no shade or shelter. There are pit
toilets but no running water or firewood. For more information, contact the BLM,
702-885-6000.
Austin
By its hip marketing campaign, one would think tiny Austin, population 300, is the
fat-tire capital of the Silver State. The hamlet is home to the Central Nevada
Mountain Bike Association and lures riders of all ability levels with maps, brochures
and campgrounds. Bikers are even invited to use the showers and restrooms at
Austin’s rodeo arena. For more information, contact Tyrannosaurus Rix Mountain
Bikes, PO Box 504, Austin, NV 89310, 702-964-1212 or the Toiyabe National
Forest Austin Ranger District, PO Box 130, Austin, NV 89310, 702-964-2671.
Local trails are marked with a brown bike symbol. The Cahill Canyon Run is an 11½-
mile loop that departs from Austin on US 50 and climbs more than 1,000 feet in the
first third of the ride toward Austin Summit. Near here the trail turns off the
pavement to the south and runs up the ridge of the Toiyabe Range for about four
miles, then finally heads downhill to an intersection. Take a left turn to fly down into
Cahill Canyon, alongside an intermittent creek in a drainage dotted with juniper and
aspen. The route runs north out of the canyon, crosses US 50 and continues on a
double track. A tight left turn after about two miles swings the trail toward the west
for another three miles, where another left heads back to US 50 and the return trip to
Austin.
A 10-mile loop with a 1,300-foot elevation gain begins in the middle of Austin and
heads east on US 50 up to Austin Summit. Here a rocky double track leaves the
road heading due north for about three miles to the old Pony Express mail route,
where bikers can relive the experiences of the 19th-century riders. The trail turns
west at Emigrant Pass and begins a gradual descent toward Midas Canyon, where
the trail runs southwest and continues to lose altitude on the way back to US 50.
From the pavement, there is a short but steep climb back into Austin, past the US
Forest Service station.
Lexington Arch
Adjacent to Great Basin National Park near Baker, one of the area’s unique geologic
features can be reached only via a rough dirt road that, when the weather is dry, is
suitable for a 4WD vehicle. Lexington Arch is a six-story naturally occurring limestone
archway that is probably an exposed section of cave passageway. The road to the
arch begins about eight miles southeast of the town of Baker, between the Utah
village of Garrison and the north shore of Pruess Lake. The road heads southwest
toward the Snake Range for about five miles and crosses Lexington Creek before
dead-ending at another dirt road. Turn right and bump and grind another six miles to
a fork, then head left following South Fork Lexington Creek another three miles until
the road peters out into a foot trail. From here it’s a steep one-mile hike to the arch.

Do not attempt this remote and potentially hazardous trip without first checking with
Great Basin National Park, 702-234-7331, for maps, directions and road conditions.
Don’t count on the creeks to be running, and bring plenty of water. The route is
covered on USGS topo maps for Arch Canyon and Minerva Canyon.

Biking Outfitters
Ely

Sportsworld, 1500 Aultman Street, 702-289-8886, sells and services

bicycles.

 On Water

Lahontan State Recreation Area

About 17 miles west of Fallon, Lahontan State Recreation Area,  702-688-1500,
surrounds a 10,000-acre man-made lake with 70 miles of shoreline. Boat ramps are
located in two spots, off US 50 at North Shore Marina and off Fir Avenue on the
western edge of the lake. Boating and water-skiing are popular pastimes, along with
sportfishing. There are few amenities and the shoreline is relatively barren, so
adventurers are advised to come fully prepared.
Anglers will find white and largemouth bass, walleye and catfish waiting for lures and
live bait between May and September. White crappie can be hooked March through
May. Some of the best fishing spots are areas where the Nevada Department of
Wildlife has dumped old Christmas trees into the water to serve as cover for the
sportfishes’ favorite prey. A good map is available from area headquarters along US
50.

Note that a mercury warning – the after-effect of the area’s gold and silver milling –
exists at Lake Lahontan and no one should eat more than one eight-ounce meal per
month of fish caught here. Children under 12 as well as nursing women, pregnant
women or women who may become pregnant should avoid the fish altogether.
Walleye over 21 inches also should not be consumed.

In 1997, a pair of bald eagles with a new eaglet were spotted – the first such sighting
in Nevada in 20 years – on the western edge of the recreation area.
Austin
Terrific fishing is relatively easy to find along dirt road # 002 south of Austin. About
10 miles south of town nestled in the Reese River Valley, Big Creek hides rainbows
and brownies, with rainbows stocked during the late spring and early summer. There
are a number of beaver ponds in the area, where worms and corn are said to work
best. The trout limit is 10.
About 22 miles south of Austin, Groves Lake and Kingston Creek, which feeds the
lake, are both stocked with rainbows and hold a natural population of brown and
brook trout. Late spring is said to be the best time to nab the limit of five trout in
these popular locales. If dirt roads aren’t too inviting, the lake and creek are more
easily accessible from the east, via paved NV 376 and a three- to five-mile dirt
excursion from the town of Kingston Village.
On the west side of the Toiyabe Range south of Austin, moving-water anglers will find
plenty of chances to stalk the banks and wet a line. The Upper Reese River,
approximately 30 miles south of US 50 near the Arc Dome Wilderness, holds wild
brook and rainbow trout.
About 37 miles east of Austin and just south of US 50, Illipah Reservoir Recreation
Area has 67 surface acres open to boat and shore anglers seeking rainbows and
browns. The reservoir and its primitive campsites are overseen by the Ely office of
the BLM, 702-289-4865.
Fishing Outfitters
Ely
The following businesses sell fishing equipment and can provide expert advice:
Sportsworld, 1500 Aultman Street, 702-289-8886.
J & P Auto Parts, 1050 Aultman Street, 702-289-3063.
Great Basin Inn, 701 Avenue F, 702-289-4468.

Where To Stay & Eat

 Accommodations
Fallon
There are a number of clean and functional establishments on US 50, which is called
Williams Avenue within the city limits. The Bonanza Inn & Casino, 855 West
Williams Avenue, 702-423-6031, $-$$, is one of the biggest places in town, and one
of the best bargains, with 74 rooms adjacent to the small casino. A few chain
operations are also situated on the main drag, including the Comfort Inn, 1830 West
Williams Avenue, 702-423-5554, $$, which has 49 rooms, a heated pool and interior
corridors; the 22-room Value Inn, 180 West Williams Avenue, 702-423-5151, $-$$;
and, right in the center of what action there is in Fallon, the two-story
EconoLodge/Downtown, 70 East Williams Avenue, 702-423-2194, $$, which has
30 rooms, a heated pool and a small casino.
Two other easily accessible lodging places are found on Taylor Street, which is north-
south running US 95. The Nevada Belle Motel, 25 North Taylor Street, 702-423-
4648, $-$$, has 27 rooms, while on the southern edge of town, the Budget Inn,
1705 South Taylor Street, 702-423-2277, $-$$, has 21 rooms.
Austin
Nothing in this tiny burg will ever be confused with the Ritz, but after a long day on
the road, who really cares. All of the rooms in Austin are on US 50, called Main Street
as it runs through town. As you drive in from the west, the first stop is the tiny Pony
Canyon Motel, 702-964-2605, $-$$, with 10 rooms. Austin’s two other motels are
located on the same block. Next door to the Pony Canyon is the Mountain Motel,
702-964-2471, $-$$, which has 12 rooms set in single-wide mobile homes. On the
corner is the cheapest of the lot, the Lincoln Motel, 702-964-2698, $, which has 17
rooms. On the east end of town, the Pony Express House, 115 Northwest Main
Street, 702-964-2306, $, is an inexpensive bed-and-make-your-own-breakfast with
just two rooms. It is open seasonally.
Smith Creek Ranch, 702-423-4254, $$$, is a unique establishment located
approximately 40 minutes west of Austin (although the reservation desk is in Fallon).
The ranch, set at the feet of the Desatoya Mountains on 2,800 acres, combines a B&B
with a private, trophy-trout-filled six-acre lake. Packages include wet and dry fly
fishing, basic equipment, instruction, meals and overnight accommodations. The
reservation line is open Monday through Friday during regular business hours. Call for
information, rates and directions.
Eureka
Eureka has a surprising mix of lodgings, most of which are on US 50, also called Main
Street here. The Sundown Lodge, 702-237-5334, $-$$, is a modern, three-story
motel with 27 rooms right in the center of town. The Eureka Motel, 702-237-5247,
$, has 17 rooms. For a real blast from the past, try Jackson House B&B, 702-237-
5577, $-$$. The red brick structure was built in 1877, gutted in an 1880 fire that
destroyed a number of buildings, then rebuilt and run as a hotel into the 1890s, when
it was advertised as Nevada’s only fireproof hotel. After years of dormancy, the
Jackson House was restored in 1981 and reopened as a nine-room hotel.
Up the hill opposite the Jackson House on Monroe Street, the 15-room Colonnade
Hotel, 702-237-9988, $, is another living antique. Constructed as a meeting house
in 1880 by the Italian Benevolent Society (the Italian immigrants became famous as
charcoal makers in the Eureka area), the building was vacant 10 years later. It
reopened as a boarding house in the 1940s and today is a small, two-story hotel.
Ely
With a population of more than 5,300, the crossroads of US 50 and US 93 offers all
types of rooms. From the neon glow of small casinos to bed and breakfasts, there is
something for every taste in this town at the foot of the Egan Range. Most of the
rooms are on or near US 50, which is called Aultman Street on the west side of US 93
and Avenue F on the east side.
The historic Hotel Nevada & Gambling Hall, 501 Aultman Street, 702-289-6665,
$-$$$, has 65 rooms in its six-story structure. The hotel was established in downtown
Ely in 1929 and still has some prices more fitting to those days. For a more modern
taste, try the Holiday Inn & Prospector Casino, 1501 Avenue F, 702-289-8900, $
$, which has 61 rooms.
The 65-room Ramada Inn/Copper Queen Hotel & Casino, 701 Avenue I, 702-
289-4884, $-$$, located on the south side of town off US 93, has an indoor heated
pool with jacuzzi, as well as a dining room and cocktail lounge. There are two Best
Western motor inns within two blocks of each other: the Main Motel, 1101 Aultman
Street, 702-289-1234, $-$$, which has 19 rooms; and its twin, the 21-room Park-
Vue Motel, 930 Aultman Street, 702-289-4497, $-$$. One of the largest
establishments in Ely is the new 122-room Motel 6, 770 Avenue O, 702-289-6671,
$, located just down the highway from the Copper Queen.
For a more genteel stay, try the Steptoe Valley Inn B&B, 220 East 11th Street,
702-289-8687, $$-$$$. Set in a restored 1907 grocery store, the inn has five rooms
with private baths. There are also private balconies, a library and a landscaped lawn
with a gazebo. The inn is open June through September.
There are also a handful of motels spread around Ely. The Bristlecone Motel, 700
Avenue I, 702-289-8838, $-$$, has 21 rooms, while the two-story Four Sevens
Motel, 500 High Street, 702-289-4747, $-$$, has 40 rooms and a guest laundry. The
47-room Jailhouse Motel, 5th and High streets, 702-289-3033, $-$$, is located on
the west side of town near the convention center and has rooms complete with “cell”
numbers. Two bargain-priced establishments are the Idle Inn Motel, 150 4th Street,
702-289-4411, $, and the White Pine Motel, 1301 Aultman Street, 702-289-
3800, $.
Baker
Thanks to its proximity to Great Basin National Park, the tiny town of Baker has
enjoyed a resurgence of tourism since the park received official designation in 1986.
At presstime there were two places to stay in town, and two others outside of Baker.
The Silverjack Motel, 702-234-7323, $-$$, with its seven rooms, is located on NV
487 (Main Street) just south of the turnoff to the park. Behind the Silverjack, the most
cleverly named rooming house in Nevada can be found at End of the Trail...er,
702-234-7323, $. The owners rent out the two bedrooms nightly. The other in-town
options are Mountain View RV Park, 702-234-7272, which has a laundromat and
showers, and Whispering Elms RV Park, 702-234-7343, which has 25 sites for
motor homes and tent campers. It is open June through August.
Back on the US 50 at the Nevada-Utah border, the Border Inn, 702-234-7300, $, is
a favorite spot for travelers, what with its 29 rooms, 24-hour laundromat and
showers. South of Baker at the national park boundary, Hidden Canyon Guest
Ranch, 702-234-7267, offers tipis and a campground, along with horseback riding,
guided tours and off-road adventures. The best way to reach the ranch is to take NV
487 southeast seven miles to Garrison, Utah, then backtrack west a few miles to the
ranch.
Information Sources

Contact the Great Basin Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 90, Baker, NV 89311,
702-237-7302.

 Restaurants
Finding much else besides American diner food is a challenge in Pony Express
Territory. On the stretch of US 50 between Fallon and Ely, even fast food joints are
nonexistent. Like mom-and-pop eateries everywhere, the ones in this region
sometimes open and close at the whims of the owners, so call ahead for operating
hours.
Fallon
Chophouse food and Mexican fare rule the roost here. The Fallon Nugget Casino, 70
South Maine Street, 702-423-3111, houses both Aniceta’s Good Food and Double
Down Pizza. Tony’s, 1350 West Williams Avenue, 702-423-5588, serves up steaks,
seafood and pasta for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. The Depot Casino,
875 West Williams Avenue, 702-423-3233, is home to The Diner, with huge
portions of Mexican and American fare. Stockman’s Casino, 1560 West Williams
Avenue, 702-423-2117, offers the sizzle of Angelica’s Steakhouse. The Mexican
food at La Cocina, 125 South Maine Street, 702-423-6166, is known throughout
Fallon. Carhops at Bob’s Root Beer Drive-In, 4150 Reno Highway, 702-867-2769,
have been serving great burgers, thick shakes and root beer “made fresh daily” for
nearly four decades. Café Nations, 960 Auction Road, 702-423-6828, is Fallon’s
only coffee house. It’s open Monday through Saturday until 10 PM. Williams Avenue
(US 50) also sports plenty of fast food establishments, including McDonald’s,
Denny’s, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Burger King and a handful of pizza joints.
One of the best – and last – places to stop for fresh produce before hitting the road is
Lattin Farms, 1955 McClean Road, 702-867-3750.

Be sure to look for the famous Hearts O’ Gold cantaloupes and ask about their
strange hold on Fallon. In the 1920s and ‘30s, cantaloupe fever swept over Fallon
and 44 farmers devoted more than 500 acres of prime farmland to growing the huge,
sweet Hearts O’ Gold brand melons that became known as far away as New York City.
In 1929 and ’30, however, the Depression and a severe drought brought ruin to most
of the growers. Today a few farms still grow the water-intensive crop, and the glory
days are celebrated at the Cantaloupe Festival each Labor Day.

Austin
All commerce is located on US 50 (Main Street), including the few eateries. Open for
breakfast, lunch and dinner, Carol’s Country Kitchen, 702-964-2493, serves
everything from burgers to fish and pasta. Smack in the center of town, Toiyabe
Café, 702-964-2220, is also open for three squares a day, specializing in omelets
and steaks. The International Café and Bar, 702-964-9905, is located in the
second-oldest building in the state. If your mind is on pizza, try Mary’s Owl Club,
702-964-2627. Groceries can be purchased at Kent’s Store, 702-964-2412.
Eureka
If the meat and starch hasn’t gotten to you yet, might as well top it off in Eureka,
where the restaurants are also along US 50. The Owl Club, 702-237-5280, serves a
fine steak sandwich, and is attached to a bar. The Busy Bee Drive-In, 702-237-
5356, is strictly walk-up-window fast food with the dining room consisting of a few
outdoor tables. The best bet might be to buy a sub from Luigi’s Deli, 702-237-
5477, and find a quiet place to nosh on a hill above town. It’s a good idea to call each
of these to check their hours before heading out.
Ely
One of the best bargains in town is at the Hotel Nevada, 501 Aultman Street, 702-
289-6665, which features prime rib, top sirloin steak and eggs, and breakfast in its
restaurant 24 hours a day. Jerry Restaurant No. 21, 2160 Aultman Street, 702-
289-3905, is also open 24 hours a day, serving diner-style grub. The Ramada
Inn/Copper Queen’s Café, 701 Avenue I, 702-289-4884, begins serving its large
portions of breakfast, lunch and dinner at 6 AM. Adjacent to the Jailhouse Motel is the
Cell Block Dining Room, 211 5th Street, 702-289-3033, which serves beef and
seafood in a unique penitentiary setting. Two Chinese restaurants are Good Friends,
1455 Aultman Street, 702-289-4888, and Orient Express, 562 Aultman Street,
702-289-3313. Ely also has its share of generic fast food along the main drags,
including McDonald’s and Pizza Hut.
The Fireside Inn, 702-2289-3765, located three miles north of town on US 93,
serves American cuisine in a casual atmosphere. Hearty breakfasts are served June
through October.
 Camping
Two RV parks in Fallon welcome tent campers. Fallon RV Park, 5787 Reno Highway,
702-867-2332, has 64 sites, and Hubtotel RV Park, 4800 Reno Highway, 702-
867-3636, offers 45 sites.
West of Fallon, Lahontan State Recreation Area, 702-688-1500, has one
developed campground at Silver Springs Beach. There are plenty of spots to pitch a
tent, however, around the man-made lake on its 70 miles of sandy shoreline. Believe
it or not, the area fills quickly on summer weekends, so arrive early and bring plenty
of supplies, as there are no services near the water.
Some of the quietest and most beautiful campgrounds in the state can be found near
Austin off US 50. Just east of town, Bob Scott Campground, set at 7,195 feet in the
Toiyabe National Forest, is a perfect spot near the highway to spend a few warm
summer nights. There are 15 sites. South of Austin along dirt US Forest Service Road
002, Big Creek campground is located about 13 miles south of US 50. There are 14
spots in the campground and many more primitive sites adjacent to the creek. About
nine miles south of Big Creek, Kingston Campground has 14 sites. There are other
undeveloped sites along the nearby creek. For more information and road conditions,
contact the Toiyabe National Forest Austin Ranger District, PO Box 130, Austin,
NV 89310, 702-964-2671.
Austin RV Park, 702-964-1011, one mile east of NV 305 on US 50, has 21 sites for
motor homes plus tent camping. Open April to October.
For a unique camping experience among the markings of ancient Native Americans,
Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area, 24 miles east of Austin, has 16 free
campsites near the mysterious outdoor gallery. Wonderful views of Big Smoky Valley
to the southwest (named by John C. Fremont for the naturally occurring hydrocarbon
haze), along with campfire rings, grills, picnic tables and vault toilets. No running
water or firewood. For information, contact BLM Battle Mountain District, PO Box
1420, Battle Mountain, NV 89820, 702-635-4000.
Just east of the Eureka town limits, there is primitive camping near the Eureka
Historical Marker and at Pinto Summit, both off of US 50.
Only six miles southwest of Ely, the US Forest Service operates Ward Mountain
Campground in the shadow of the 10,936-foot peak near Murray Summit. US 6
leads to the 29 campsites, which are open June through September with running
water.
North of Ely, there are several fine campsites on the west side of the picturesque
Schell Creek Range. Take US 93 north through McGill about 17 miles to NV 486, which
heads east into the Humboldt National Forest. After a few miles, the highway
becomes County Road 1056 and dead ends at East Creek Campground, where
there are eight campsites set at 7,300 feet. None have running water. To reach Bird
Creek campground, backtrack down to NV 486 and turn south, then go a mile to
County Road 1059. Turn east and go two miles to reach the eight sites set at 7,500
feet. There is drinking water here. Finally, Timber Creek Campground is another
mile south on NV 486, then three miles east on county road 1062 all the way up to
8,800 feet. There are 10 sites here with piped water. For more information, contact
the US Forest Service Ely Ranger District, 350 8th Street, Ely, NV, 89301, 702-
289-3031.
Two RV parks near Ely welcome tent campers: KOA of Ely, 702-289-3413, on US 93,
has 100 sites, and Valley View RV Park, 702-289-3303, has 46 sites located one
mile north of town on US 93.
The BLM, 702-289-4865, operates Cleve Creek Campground on the eastern side
of the Schell Creek Range between Ely and Baker. To reach the campground from US
50, head north on NV 893 through Spring Valley about 13 miles to US Forest Service
Road 435. Turn left and go toward the mountains about four miles to the
campground. The area is known for fine examples of Native American petroglyphs,
fishing in the creek and wildlife and bird watching.
In Great Basin National Park, there are four developed campgrounds accessible
via NV 488 west of Baker. Three of them are on Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive, beginning
with Lower Lehman Creek, which has 11 sites suitable for RVs on five acres. Set at
7,300 feet, this is the only park campground open all year. One mile beyond Lower
Lehman Creek is Upper Lehman Creek Campground at 7,752 feet. There are 14
sites for RVers and nine for tenters. The campground features ranger-led campfire
programs.
Nine miles above Upper Lehman, Wheeler Peak Campground rests in the rarified
air of 9,886 feet. There are 20 sites suitable for smaller RVs and 17 for tent campers.
Baker Creek Campground is reached by turning south from NV 488 on Baker Creek
Road and driving three miles. There are 30 sites here at 7,530 feet. Upper Lehman,
Wheeler Peak and Baker Creek are usually open from mid-May through September,
depending on weather conditions. All the above campgrounds charge $5 per night
with a 14-night maximum stay, and there are no showers. There are also primitive
campgrounds within park boundaries. On the northern edge of the park, there are
several campsites along Strawberry Creek Road, which runs southwest from US 50
from a junction about 69 miles east of Ely.
In the center of the park, there are 19 campsites along Snake Creek Road,
accessed by driving about seven miles southeast of Baker on NV 487 to an unpaved
road leading to the Spring Creek Rearing Station. The first campsites are
approximately 10 miles from the highway. The roads ends about three miles later at
Shoshone Campground (elevation 8,250 feet), where a trail leads up to Johnson
Lake. Contact the visitors center, 702-234-7331, for more information on any of the
campgrounds within Great Basin National Park.
Cowboy Country
From 4,000-year-old duck decoys, lovingly handcrafted out of tule reeds, to wagon
ruts created by legions of 19th-century prairie schooners, evidence of humans
passing through northern Nevada is everywhere in this region. Throughout history,
however, not many of them stayed around very long. Today in Cowboy Country,
livestock almost certainly outnumbers people, which makes the area a perfect place
to enjoy uncrowded spaces.
The Great Basin dominates the landscape here. A drive across the state is like riding
the world’s largest and gentlest roller coaster, climbing up one side of a mountain
range and dipping down the other side into its basin. The mountains rise up like giant
whitecaps in a still, sagebrush-covered sea, reaching as high as 11,000 feet and
more. Desert bighorn sheep, the state animal, call many parts of this high country
home, stepping between stands of bristlecone pine, the oldest living thing on earth.

Bristlecone Pines

The bristlecone pine, whose botanical name (Pinus longvaea) means long-lived pine,
has been an object of great curiousity for hundreds of years. The short, gnarled trees
with bottle-brush greenery caught the eye of John Muir, who described them as
“lowly old giants, five or six feet in diameter that have braved the storms of more
than a thousand years.” Little did Muir know that he was short-changing these alpine
denizens by four millenia. No one realized how old bristlecone pines really were until
the 1950s, when University of Arizona researcher Dr. Edmund Schulman, ferreting out
rumors of ancient trees in the White Mountains on the California-Nevada border,
started pulling core samples. He found one living specimen dating back 4,700 years,
concurrent with the building of the great Egyptian pyramids. Named Methuselah, the
still-living tree's exact location is closely guarded to protect it from the bristlecone's
only real threat, humans.
Dendrochronologists, scientists who study tree rings as a record of past events and
environmental conditions, have used bristlecone wood to create a tree-ring timeline
dating back 10,000 years. Even Muir would never have imagined that this stumpy,
twisted living relic would become an invaluable window into Earth's past.

The ranges provide a respite from life in the flatlands, offering miles of uncrowded
trails for hikers, bikers and equestrians. There are four designated wilderness areas in
Cowboy Country, all centered on Humboldt National Forest land. Jarbidge Wilderness
in the extreme northern part of the state remains one of the most pristine wilderness
areas in the country, with lush forests giving way to high peaks that provide 150-mile
views. The snowmelt from these ancient mountains fills dozens of rivers, streams,
lakes and reservoirs, attracting anglers from across the West to wet their lines in
search of various species of trout, bass and other gamefish. There are easily
accessible bodies of water like huge Rye Patch Reservoir and Angel Lake – reached by
a paved highway climbing to 8,500 feet – that become crowded on summer
weekends, and there are virtually untouched glacial cirques high in the Ruby
Mountains that require strenuous hikes to fish their shores.
The weather here can be as wild as the land. Summers are generally hot and dry, but
not unbearably so as in the southern part of the state. The ranges are the place to be
when the basins top 90°. Winter brings rain and snow. Upper elevations stay covered
with the white stuff often long into spring and summer, and lower elevations can
receive a foot and more overnight.
Travelers in Cowboy Country should be ready for anything. Since many of these
adventures make use of unpaved roads, driving a high-clearance vehicle is
sometimes required and taking extra supplies and emergency equipment is always a
good idea. There are few phones – and even fewer cellular phone towers. Always
check with local authorities about road and trail conditions before heading off the
beaten path. Carry good maps and a compass, and know how to use them.

As remote as Cowboy Country can be, the centers of population provide plenty of
comfortable options and amenities. In fact, towns like Winnemucca, Elko and
Wendover are regarded as mini-boomtowns, with local economies spurred by both an
expanding gaming industry and a healthy mineral market. In 1993, Elko headed the
list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America. It’s been decades since fortune-seeking
gold and silver prospectors, including one named Samuel Clemens, combed Cowboy
Country, but thanks to new mining technology, this region remains one of the
greatest mineral-producing areas on Earth. The towns are also home to a number of
outfitters and guide services, eager to show visitors the wonders of this unique
region.
This brings us to the people of Cowboy Country. The Northern Paiute and Shoshone
and their ancestors (including the ones who made the exquisite tule duck decoys)
patrolled this region for thousands of years before the whites moved in. The Native
Americans left behind artifacts and artwork that scholars are still trying to decipher.
Today they display their culture to visitors through museums and pow wows. Whites
entered the territory en masse in the mid-19th century on the Emigrant Trail, parts of
which are still visible today. The famous trail, followed by the doomed Donner Party,
paralleled the Humboldt River. Today Interstate 80 runs alongside both of them and is
the main artery for adventure travelers. Few settlers stopped for very long on their
westward treks, that is until gold and silver strikes in the 1850s and 1860s gave them
reason to hunker down. Basques from Europe were among the newcomers who, after
the riches ran out, took to sheepherding. Today northern Nevada boasts the largest
concentration of Basques outside of the Old World.
In late 1860s, the Central Pacific Railroad came though, finally giving many
homesteaders reason to put down roots. The hale and hearty survived various booms
and busts throughout the years to come; others moved on, leaving the region with a
number of eerie ghost towns. But since the early days, one thing has remained
constant: life on the range. Cowboy Country celebrates this uniquely American way of
life like no other area in America. The Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Cowboy Music
Gathering, both held in Elko, have become two of the most popular festivals of their
kind in the world. The region’s guest ranches invite city slickers to try their hand with
the reins and rope, and a thick steak and a locally grown potato remain the menu
items of choice for breakfast, lunch and dinner. This is a place where pick-up trucks,
Stetsons and boots aren’t the trendy toys of the affluent, but everyday tools. And
Cowboy Country offers enough adventures to fill a thousand weekends.

Touring
 Lovelock
First called Big Meadows after the nearby tule marshes that marked the end of the
Humboldt River, Lovelock began as a watering hole for travelers on the Emigrant Trail
who paused here to rest up before embarking on the torturous trek across the Forty-
Mile Desert. George Lovelock, a Welshman who had become successful in California
during the Gold Rush, arrived here in 1866. A year later he donated 85 acres to the
Central Pacific Railroad for a depot and townsite, which the company named after
him.
With a population of just over 2,300, Lovelock has more than enough small-town
charm to go around. The seat of 6,000-square-mile Pershing County, Lovelock is also
home to nearly half the county’s inhabitants and is a good jumping off point for
adventures in northern Nevada. I-80 runs northeast from town and onward into the
Great Basin. Nevadans have roamed these parts for thousands of years, as evidenced
by the artifacts found at Leonard Rock Shelter and Lovelock Indian Cave, located on
the southern outskirts of town.
A chronological look at this region must begin at the shelter, reached by driving south
from the center of Lovelock on Amehert Avenue six blocks, then veering left onto
South Merdidian Road. After eight miles, turn left on Derby Road, which crosses the
Humboldt River, and drive a mile to a dirt road that branches to the right.
This part of the Old California Trail soon reaches a short, four-wheel-drive road on the
left that leads to Leonard Rock Shelter, about 17 miles from Lovelock. A vertical
rock dike protruding from the west flank of the Humboldt Range, the rock shelter’s
north face is covered with petroglyphs. The area around the shelter wasn’t excavated
until 1950, when a group of archeologists from UC Berkeley found an infant burial site
and evidence of twined baskets dating to 4000 BC. Hunting and fishing tools and
other artifacts, including exquisite duck decoys fashioned from tule reeds, were also
found and dated to 2000 BC.
Five miles southwest of the shelter, another short road on the left heads one mile to
Lovelock Indian Cave. Local legend says that 16-year-old John T. Reid was the first
white person to see the cave, which measures 160 feet wide and 40 feet deep, in
1886 or 1887. He may have been led there by Natchez, son of the great Paiute leader
Winnemucca. The cavern wasn’t formally explored until 1911, when a group of guano
miners looking for fertilizer began to unearth various artifacts. Scientific excavations,
the first ever in the Great Basin, were begun in 1912 by Nevada Historical Society
and UC Berkeley archeologists. Mummified remains were found here, along with other
evidence of human presence dating to 2000 BC.

Paiute legend has it that a tribe of cannabilistic, red-headed people once lived in the
area and were chased into the cave at the end of a long-runnning war with the
Paiute. Paiute warriors started a fire at the mouth of the cave, killing the last of the
mysterious tribe.

For more information and a map to the shelter and cave sites, contact the Pershing
County Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 821, Lovelock, NV 89419, 702-273-2713.
The chamber of commerce office shares space with the amazing Marzen House
Museum, located just off I-80 on the west end of town. Some of the Humboldt
Valley’s Native American artifacts can be seen in this 19th-century home, including a
fine collection of Native American points and tools. The whitewashed two-story
structure (look for the green cannon in the driveway) houses an impressive display of
antique furnishings, clothing and household items, many of which were donated by
locals. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday, 1:30 PM to 4 PM. Admission is
free.
Architecture fans will want to visit the Pershing County Courthouse, sitting
downtown at the intersection of Main and Central streets. One of only two round
courthouses in the country, the building was designed by award-winning architect
Frederic Delongchamps and completed in 1921. The courthouse is on the grounds of
a quiet, picnic-perfect park, which also features the community pool.
Nearly as interesting as the courthouse, a minor geological wonder is found in the
tufa field, about six miles from downtown Lovelock. Tufas, quite common in this part
of the Great Basin, are large, dark, finger-shaped formations of mineral deposits left
over from the bottom of prehistoric Lake Lahontan, which once covered most of
northwestern Nevada. Lovelock’s dozens of tufas, standing five to 15 feet high and
spead over 100 acres, are silhouetted against the picturesque backdrop of the Trinity
Range, which seems close enough to touch. To reach the tufas from the courthouse,
go north on Central Avenue 1½ miles to Pitt Road (NV 399), turn left and drive 2½
miles to a gravel road on the right. The tufas are another 1½ miles up the road.
Information Sources

Pershing County Chamber of Commerce, PO Box 821, Lovelock, NV 89419, 702-

273-2713.

 Rye Patch Reservoir

About 22 miles north of Lovelock alongside I-80, Rye Patch State Recreation
Area, 702-538-7321, is centered on this man-made lake. Created by a 75-foot dam
that was constructed across the Humboldt River in 1936, Rye Patch Reservoir is a
banana-shaped, 22-mile long lake with 72 miles of shoreline that is a favorite
playground of locals and travelers alike. There are three picnic grounds and a
swimming beach, as well as opportunities for boating, fishing and camping. For
details, see below under Adventures. Open all year, the reservoir does get its share
of cold rain and snow in winter months.
 Unionville
Samuel Clemens was among the treasure hunters who descended on the burgeoning
Yerba Buena Valley in the winter of 1861-62 in search of silver. After later taking the
name Mark Twain, he described his adventures here in the journal Roughing It.
Clemens was smart enough to put down the pick after a few weeks and take up the
pen (his first job was with the Unionville paper), although about $5 million worth of
ore was eventually ripped from the mountainsides in the area around Unionville in
the 1860s and ’70s. What was once a mini-metropolis of 200 homes and 50
businesses is now a sleepy little village, complete with a rustic bed and breakfast
(see Accommodations, below) and well-manicured homes. About 16 families reside in
Unionville, where stone ruins of the early settlements extend for three miles up the
length of the canyon. What’s left of Clemens’ crude cabin is found beind the Pershing
County Youth Camp, a good spot for a picnic. A cemetery and mill ruins are located
near the mouth of Yerba Buena Valley. To reach Unionville from I-80, head south on
NV 400 from Mill City 13 miles to an unpaved road on the right. From here it’s five
miles to the town.
 Winnemucca
The largest city between Sparks and Elko, Winnemucca (population 7,380) was
founded in 1850 as French Ford, a stop for wagon trains headed west on the Emigrant
Trail. When the Central Pacific rolled through in 1863, the locals sought to placate a
local Paiute chieftain and end his regular attacks on settlers by renaming the village
after him. The attacks subsided after an army fort was built nearby and Winnemucca
grew quickly as a supply depot for travelers and prospectors.
In the 1870s Basque men began migrating to northern Nevada to search for silver
and herd sheep. They later brought their families. Today their descendants, the
largest concentration of Basques in the New World, celebrate their heritage with food
and festivals. Dressed in their traditional red berets (for the men) and red and black
skirts (for the women), the Basques celebrate in the streets each summer with a
parade, dancing, the riotous contests of strength and a Holy Mass held in Euskera,
their native tongue and one of the world’s oldest living languages.
Winnemucca has been the hub of a vibrant ranching industry for decades, and today
portrays and preserves the cowboy way at the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and
Western Heritage Museum, 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard, 702/623-2225.
Local cowpokes born in the 1800s are honored in the hall, which also displays
ranching equipment and Western art. The hall is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a
week, except for lunch. Admission is free. On the west side of the Humboldt River
atop a small hill, the Humboldt Museum complex, 702-623-2912, is comprised of
the former sanctuary of St. Paul’s Episcopal Church (1907) and a modern building
behind the church. The buildings are located at the corner of Jungo Road and Maple
Avenue. The museum has a fine collection of period pieces, including a dress worn by
Charlie Chaplin’s longtime co-star and lover, Edna Purviance, a former resident.
Curator Pansilee Martin also keeps an eye on a 100-year-old organ shipped to town
from Vermont and a collection of antique cars. There is a gift shop next door. The
museum is open 10 AM to noon and 1 PM to 4 PM Monday through Friday and 1 PM to
4 PM Saturday.
Maps of the city’s historical walking tour are also available throughout Winnemucca.
The tour visits 30 sites, which might be too much for an afternoon walk, but all are
easily drivable. One highlight is the Humboldt County Courthouse at 5th and
Bridge Streets. Designed by the famed Frederick Delongchamps and constructed in
1921, the cost of the courthouse so angered residents of Lovelock that they broke
away and formed Pershing County. They then hired Delongchamps to build their own
round courthouse, one of two in the country. The former First National Bank, 352
Bridge Street, is worth noting because legend has it that the notorious Wild Bunch –
Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid and William Carver – robbed the bank in 1900,
nabbing $32,000 in gold. The thieves escaped to Texas, where they reportedly had
their photo taken and a copy sent to the bank’s cashier, along with a thank you note.
A copy of the photo and note are on display at the First Interstate Bank of Nevada at
4th and Lay streets.
Another gem is the Shone House, 602 Bridge Street, which has been used as a
rooming house since 1901. Said to be the oldest surviving hotel in Nevada, the red
brick Winnemucca Hotel, 95 Bridge Street, was erected in 1863. Like something out
of old Mexico, St. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church towers over the corner of 4th
and Melarkey streets. Built in Spanish mission style with Romanesque features and
two huge bell towers, the church was finished in 1924 at a cost of $40,000.
Information Sources

Bureau of Land Management, 705 East Fourth Street, Winnemucca, NV 89445,

702-623-1500.
US Forest Service, 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard, Winnemucca, NV 89445,
702-623-5025.
Winnemucca Chamber of Commerce, 30 West Winnemucca Boulevard,
Winnemucca, NV 89445, 702-623-5025.
Winnemucca Convention & Visitors Authority, 50 West Winnemucca Boulevard,
Winnemucca, NV 89445, 800-962-2638.

Ghost Towns
Winnemucca is a great launchpad for a tour of some of northern Nevada’s prime
haunts. These trips involve dirt-road driving in remote areas, so travel in a well-
running vehicle stocked with emergency supplies. Located about 50 miles north of
downtown Winnemucca, Camp Winfield Scott was built by the army in 1866 to
protect settlers from Paiute raids. The camp was abandoned by 1869, when the
attacks had subsided and residents were founding the nearby village of Paradise
Valley. To reach the remains of the camp, take US 95 north from Winnemucca 22
miles to NV 290, turn east and drive 18 miles to Paradise Valley. The camp is 4½
miles northwest of town. Jungo, 36 miles due west of Winnemucca via Jungo Road,
sits on the toes of the Jackson Mountains. A 20th-century ghost town, Jungo began as
a Western Pacific Railroad depot in 1910. A land speculator lured farmers here in the
’20s, but the soil proved unyielding and all but one family had moved away by the
mid ’40s.
A small saloon and café remain in Midas, once a busy town of more than 2,000 who
rushed here in 1908 after hearing news of a gold strike. When the ore turned out to
be lackluster, all but 250 people left. Some of the prospectors’ shacks remain, along
with the local watering hole, which serves as a meeting place and information center.
Midas is reached by driving 16 miles east on I-80 to Nevada 789, then northeast for
44 miles to a road heading north. Midas is two miles from this junction. The
Rochester Mining District, between Winnemucca and Lovelock, was so christened
in the 1860s by prospectors from that city in New York state. The only major silver
strike here occurred in June 1912, and 2,300 people had moved by 1913. Thiry years
and $9 million worth of ore later, the town was an empty shell. Wooden structures
and stone mill foundations can be found by heading east 10 miles from the Oreana
exit off I-80, about 14 northeast of Lovelock.
 Paradise Valley
From Winnemucca, it’s an easy drive 40 miles north to this tiny hamlet. The first
settlers arrived here in 1863 and, after fending off resident Paiutes, established
Scottsdale in 1866. Three years later the village became Paradise City. Today about
100 people live in town, which is the perfect gateway to adventures in the nearby
Santa Rosa Range, which emcompasses a portion of Humboldt National Forest
and 31,000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. This is a spectacular
setting for unspoiled hiking, biking, fishing and camping. (See Adventures and
Camping.) Chimney Dam Reservoir, sometimes an angler’s paradise, is located
about 24 miles east of town (see On Water.)
In town, Paradise Saloon,  702-578-3381, offers a bar, deli and soda fountain,
while Paradise Valley Mercantile is a full-service grocery store. Gas is also
available. In Winnemucca, obtain maps, permits and information at the US Forest
Service Santa Rosa District headquarters, 1200 East Winnemucca Boulevard,
702-623-5025, located on the extreme east end of town.
 Elko
Located 125 miles east of Winnemucca on I-80, this town of about 25,000 is the
fourth-largest city in the state and the largest settlement between Salt Lake City and
Sparks, on a stretch of highway spanning 540 miles. Elko traces its roots back to
1868, when the Central Pacific Railroad established a townsite here, just one year
before meeting the Union Pacific in Utah to complete the first transcontinental
railway. Today Elko is something of a post-modern boomtown, especially since it
topped Norman Crampton’s list of the 100 Best Small Towns in America in 1993. The
local mining, gaming and construction industries fuel the turbo-charged economy,
while on the edges Elko maintains a distinct 10-gallon-hat feeling that seeps in from
the many successful ranching operations in the vicinity. After all, this is Cowboy
Country.
Elko is also the hub for year-round outdoor adventures. Just south of town, the Ruby
Mountain Wilderness rises from the Great Basin, while remote Jarbidge
Wilderness is a day’s drive to the north. A state park, beautiful high-country lake,
verdant marshes, five reservoirs and six campgrounds are all an easy drive from the
hustle and bustle of the city streets. There are also numerous outfitters ready and
willing to lead you into the backcountry. (See Adventures.)
There are a few spots definitely worth seeing in Elko proper, however. The
Northeastern Nevada Museum, 1515 Idaho Street, 702-738-3418, is easy to
locate. It’s the white, ultramodern building with the tiny log-and-sod Pony Express
shack in front. The museum celebrates the region’s unique historical and cultural mix
of Native Americans, Basque immigrants, Chinese laborers and the American
cowboys and pioneers who have all passed through here. Displays of local wildlife,
geography, geology and industry abound. The museum is open Monday through
Saturday, 9 AM to 5 PM, and Sunday, 1 PM to 5 PM. Admission is free.
The Western Folklife Center, 501 Railroad Street, 702-738-7508, preserves and
protects the arts of the American cowboy. Housed in a former hotel that was built in
1912, the center celebrates the lyricism of the West, most notably during the annual
Cowboy Poetry Gathering. Held the last weekend of January (winter is the only
time cowboys can afford to come in off the range), the gathering can only be
described as a Great Basin cultural phenomenon. (The town even made it into The
New York Times crossword as a four-letter word for “cowboy poetry mecca.”) What
started small in 1984 now attracts over 10,000 enthusiasts who have rediscovered
the beauty of the words that can seem as simple and deep as the Nevada sky. The
center also hosts the Cowboy Music Gathering the last weekend in June, along
with various other events throughout the year. The gift shop is open Wednesday
through Sunday, 10 AM to 5 PM.
Transportation
Airport
The Elko airport, also known as J.C. Harris Field, is served by Delta Connection-Sky
West, 800-453-9417, and a charter airline, El Aero Services, 702-738-7123. For
airport information, contact the field at 702-738-5138.
Rental Cars
Avis Rent-a-Car, 800-331-1212.
Deweys Rent-A-Car, 702-738-5131.
Hertz Rent-A-Car, 800-654-3131.
Elko is also served by Amtrak passenger trains, 800-872-7245.

Information Sources

Bureau of Land Management, 3900 East Idaho Street, Elko, 89803, 702-753-
0200.
Elko Chamber of Commerce, 1601 Idaho Street, Elko, 89801, 702-738-7135.
Elko Convention & Visitors Authority, 700 Moren Way, Elko, 89801, 800-248-
ELKO.
Humboldt National Forest, 976 Mountain City Highway, Elko, 89801, 702-738-
5171.

 Lamoille/Ruby Mountains
It would be easy to write an entire Adventure Guide for the Ruby Mountains, located
southeast of Elko. Alpine vistas, lush conifer forests and sapphire lakes will have you
believing you’ve died and gone to Switzerland – without all that fattening chocolate.
This range offers enough activity to keep even the most diehard outdoor lover smiling
for months. The Ruby Mountains are 100 miles long and 16 miles across at their
widest point, with elevations ranging up to 11,387 feet at Ruby Dome. The Rubies
have been shaped and sculpted by glacial forces perhaps more than any other
mountains in the state, making for some of the most beautiful hiking, fishing and
camping in the entire West. (See Adventures and Camping.) Most of the range lies
within Humboldt National Forest, including the remote, 90,000-acre Ruby Mountains
Wilderness.
The most convenient entrance to the Ruby Mountains is the tiny town of Lamoille.
From Elko, take NV 227 south-southeast 20 miles through Spring Creek to this
achingly beautiful little burg nestled in the shadow of the purple mountains’ majesty.
The white-washed Presbyterian Church, set on a lonely country road against the
stunning backdrop of the range, is one of the most photographed churches in the
West. From town, NV 227 climbs southeast through gorgeous Lamoille Canyon into
the Ruby Mountains, passing Powerhouse picnic area, Thomas Creek
campground and Terraces picnic area before dead-ending appropriately enough
at Roads End picnic area (8,800 feet). At the crest, the view of 12-mile-long
Lamoille Canyon, gouged by glaciers into a Yosemite-like, U-shaped valley, is
spectacular. Ruby Dome, rounded by a geologic process called exfoliation, which
causes the granite to crack in circles and peel away like onion skin, is visible in the
west, rising 11,387 feet. The parking area is also the terminus of the Ruby Crest
National Recreation Trail. (See On Foot.)
 Jarbidge
Jarbidge bills itself as the most isolated town in Nevada, and there’s no argument
here. This village of about two dozen fulltime residents is accessible only on gravel
roads. From the south, the most direct path is via NV 225 north from Elko 55 miles to
the unpaved Jarbidge turnoff. The road leads east 21 miles, then north another 25
miles. Note that these roads are not plowed during winter months and are
impassable much of the year. Even when they are open, a high clearance vehicle is
required. The only route that is open year-round begins north of Jarbidge in Idaho,
where most residents obtain their supplies and set their clocks. Yes, this town sticks
to Mountain Time. From Wells, Nevada, take US 93 north 68 miles through the town of
Jackpot at the Idaho border. Continue north 18 miles to Rogerson, then turn west on
the paved Rogerson-Three Creek Highway and tool about 56 miles until the pavement
runs out. Just past the outpost of Murphy’s Hot Springs, Idaho, the road meets the
Jarbidge River, turns south, follows the west fork across the Nevada border and winds
down, down into Jarbidge Canyon. Jarbidge is nine miles south of the Nevada line.
The road into Jarbidge is narrow and has many blind curves, so drive cautiously.
The Humboldt National Forest surrounds Jarbidge, which sprouted up out of
nowhere in 1909 after gold was discovered in the canyon. More than 1,500 people
flooded into the region, making it the top gold-producing area in the state at the
time. The last stagecoach robbery in America took place nearby in 1916, and by the
1930s the rush was over. As small and remote as Jarbidge is, the area is surprisingly
tourist-friendly, with a handful of eateries and lodging houses open for business.
There are also a number of campgrounds nearby. For details on all of this, see below.
A few slices of the days of gold fever remain, including the old jailhouse and 1910
Community Hall. For access to both, check with the owners of the Trading Post,
Rey and Marguerite Nystrom, or call them at 702-488-2315.
 Suggested readings are two works by local authors: Donald Mathias’ I’d Rather
Be in Jarbidge and Helen Wilson’s Gold Fever, both available at the Trading Post.
 Wells
From Elko, I-80 continues east 50 miles to Wells. This is also the junction of US 93, the
main artery running up the east side of the state. Wells started out in the 1860s as a
Central Pacific Railroad depot and today the town’s historic structures consist mainly
of an 1869 bar and a 1911 bank. Wells is better known as the northern entry point to
the East Humboldt Range, which rises to 11,306 feet at Hole in the Mountain
Peak. The range is also home to Angel Lake, reached easily via a paved highway,
and the 37,000-acre East Humboldt Range Wilderness. Adventures in the
mountains are listed below. For ghost town fans, the site of once-thriving Metropolis
is located off Upper Metropolis Road about 13 miles north of Wells. The town was
abandoned in 1942. For last-minute camping and fishing supplies, try Stuart’s
Foodtown, 647 Humboldt Avenue, 702-752-3215. Stuart’s is open Monday through
Saturday until 10 PM, Sunday until 9 PM.
 Wendover
From Wells, there’s not much but sagebrush and open sky for 70 miles to Wendover,
just west of the Nevada-Utah border. Before entering town, however, stop at Horizon
Viewpoint, stare out across the famous, billiard-table-level Bonneville Salt Flats to
the east and check out the curvature of the Earth. Cool. Wendover is technically on
the Nevada side, but the sprawl of motels and restaurants stretches well into Utah,
the main difference between the two sides being, of course, the presence of casinos.
For decades the salt flats have attracted speed denizens of all shapes and
horsepower. (Although recent land speed records have been set on the playa of the
Black Rock Desert in Reno-Tahoe Territory.) On the Utah side of the state line,
Bonneville Speedway Museum, 801-665-7721, displays vehicles ranging from
1870s jalopies to present day rocket cars. To access the flats, the 44,000-acre
remnants of ancient Lake Bonneville, head east from the border, exit at No. 4 and go
five miles northeast. Speedsters celebrate opening day every July and the annual
World of Speed weekend every September.
Besides fulfilling the need for speed, Wendover is also known as the staging ground
for the first atomic bombing run. The Wendover Airbase was the home of the First
Composite Group and site of the training missions for the Enola Gay and Bockscar,
the historic World War II B-29s. A peace memorial and tribute to the those who
trained at the base stand side-by-side today in Wendover.
A more awesome display of air superiority can be found about 27 miles south of
Wendover. One of the largest raptor migrations in the world takes place in the
Goshute Mountains from mid-August through mid-October, when thousands of
birds of prey make their annual move. Eagles, hawks, falcons and ospreys are
common. Hawkwatch International conducts seasonal interpretive programs. The
main viewing site is reached by an unimproved dirt road and two-mile hike, which
gains 1,600 feet in two miles. Check with the Wendover USA Visitors Bureau for
directions and road conditions before heading out.
Information Sources

The Wendover USA Visitor & Convention Bureau, 702-664-3414, is at 735

Wendover Boulevard.

Special Events
January
Late January welcomes the famous Cowboy Poetry Gathering to Elko, which
attracts upwards of 10,000 buckaroos, wannabes and fans of the Western way of life
to the heart of Cowboy Country. Rooms are booked well in advance for this week-long
extravaganza.
February
Wells holds its annual chariot races, which welcome up to 60 horse-driver teams.
The night before the events, auction-goers bid to “buy” their favorites. The Battle
Mountain Easter Pow Wow, celebrating the rich Native American culture of
Northern Nevada, is held in late March or early April. Call 702-635-8245 for more
information.
June
Both hay- and gasoline-powered steeds are flying, first at the Miner’s Rodeo, then
at the Elko County Dirt Riders motocycle races. Both events take place at the Elko
County Fairgrounds. Battle Mountain is the starting line for the Pony Express
100/Weekend on Wheels, a three-day festival of racing and fun. For details, call
702-635-8245. The Winnemucca Basque Festival also takes place in June,
featuring food, dancing, a parade and feats of strength. In Wendover, the
Bordertown Bike Challenge invites riders from all over the region to pedal a one- ,
six- or 23-mile loop.
July
In July, the Shoshone Tribe holds its annual Native American Festival at the Elko
County Fairgrounds. There is a traditional dance contest, arts and crafts and a photo
exhibit. The town of McDermitt, north of Winnemucca on the Nevada-Idaho border,
hosts the Ranch Hand Rodeo in the first week of the month. Ranch hands from
across the West compete for prizes by day and whoop it up by night. Call 800-
WMCA-NEV for information. The largest Basque get-together in the US, the National
Basque Festival occurs every July at Elko City Park. Thousands crowd the streets to
participate in and watch the traditional cultural events and sports, hear the music
and eat the food. Near Wendover, the Bonneville Salt Flats are the scene of the
annual Land Speed Opener, where entrants from around the world compete in all
types of vehicles.
August
Hot August Nights come to Winnemucca near the end of the month, when hot rods
and classic cars fill the streets.
September
Speedsters return to Wendover in September for another shot at breaking world
records during World of Speed weekend. They’re back in October for the
Bonneville World Finals.
October
October brings the Military Vehicle Rally to Winnemucca, when tanks, jeeps and
other vehicles roll out for rides and demonstrations. The Te-Moak Pow Wow takes
place in mid-October at the Elko Indian Colony.
Unless otherwise indicated, call the local chambers of commerce or visitors centers
for information on the above events. Phone numbers can be found above, under
Touring.

Adventures
 On Foot
Star Peak
The highest point in the Humboldt Range, Star Peak, is accessed by a tough four-mile
hike from a trailhead off I-80 north of Lovelock. The hike is also described in Bruce
Grubbs’ The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada, Falcon Press Publishing, 1994. To reach the
trail, travel 30 miles north of Lovelock to the Humboldt exit, turn right and backtrack
south 4½ miles to Eldorado Canyon. From here, the road, passable by high-clearance
vehicles, leads due east toward the highest point, Star Peak (elevation 9,834 feet).
The trailhead appears after three miles. The trail is punishing, climbing more than
4,000 feet in four miles. At mile three the trail turns left along the shoulder of Star
Peak, but the adventurous hiker can continue straight (east) to the summit. From the
top, views of Bloody Canyon directly to the east and the East Range’s Auld Lang Syne
Peak are tremendous.
The Santa Rosa Mountains
The trails of the Santa Rosa Mountains are an easy drive from Winnemucca. Nevada
290 runs north from town up the east side of the range through Paradise Valley, then
bisects the mountains at Windy Gap before heading west to join US 95. This makes
for a great loop drive, as US 95 heads south back to Winnemucca along the west side
of the Santa Rosas. Granite Peak (elevation 9,732) is the highest point. Most of the
Santa Rosa Range is under the jurisdiction of Humboldt National Forest, including the
31,000-acre Santa Rosa-Paradise Peak Wilderness. Chartered in 1989, the
wilderness is located just 35 miles north of Winnemucca and offers one of the best
hikes in the area on the Summit Trail. To reach the trailhead, go north on US 95 35
miles to the Buffalo Canyon sign and follow the dirt road for two miles. The trail
begins northwest of the US Forest Service boundary fence. The first half of the
moderately strenous, nine-mile round-trip climbs gradually through sagebrush, willow
and cottonwood country, crossing Buffalo Creek. The last 2½ miles are covered on a
somewhat primitive trail heading east toward Paradise Peak. Aspen, mahogany and
wildflowers like yellow violet, lupine and leopard lilly are common here. The last half-
mile of the trail ascends at a 40% grade to the crest of the range at an elevation of
8,200 feet. The Forest Service reports that mountain lions are known to travel in
Buffalo Canyon. Pronghorn antelope, which are actually not part of the antelope
family, can be seen on the lower slopes of the mountains.
The Summit Trail is also accessible from the east side of the Santa Rosas through a
number of trailheads, including Singas Creek. Drive about 39 miles north of
Winnemucca via NV 290 toward the hamlet of Paradise Valley and turn west at the US
Forest Service sign for Singas Creek, about one mile south of town. The gravel and
dirt road runs 5.6 miles to a parking area. The Summit Trail is reached by climbing
steeply up an old road from the parking lot. A hike to the summit measures 11 miles
round-trip. The route climbs through the aspen and sagebrush for almost a mile
before reaching the Summit Trail, where you turn south, keeping an eye skyward for
golden eagles and red-tailed hawks. Wildflowers are in abundance here as the trail
continues toward Singas Peak (elevation 9,415), dipping into Morey Creek Canyon
and climbing out. The trail continues toward the Abel Creek drainage, descends
toward a watercourse, then ascends over the ridgeline south of the creek. Here the
trail turns west and climbs again toward the crest of the range, eventually reaching a
signed junction that points the way into Buffalo Canyon (see above). Return the way
you came.
The best time for hiking at higher elevations in the Santa Rosas is June through
October, although the weather in this range is know for being unpredictable. Come
prepared for anything. Horses are welcome on these trails. High-clearance vehicles
are strongly advised for any dirt-road driving. USGS 7.5-minute quad maps of the
area include Five Fingers, Santa Rosa Peak and Hinkey Summit. For a Humboldt
National Forest Visitor Map and more information, contact the US Forest Service
Santa Rosa District in Winnemucca, 702-623-5025.
The Ruby Mountains
The Ruby Mountains southeast of Elko have been called by many “the poor man’s
Alaska.” Elevations range from 6,000 feet on the floor of the Great Basin to 11,387
feet at the summit of Ruby Dome. Hikers can visit rock peaks, cirque basins, glacial
lakes, rolling sage-covered hills and steep, narrow canyons. This is also a prime locale
for wildlife watching. Mountain lions, big horn sheep, mule deer and the Himalayan
snowcock – imported from Asia in the 1960s – all call the Ruby Mountains home.
The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail begins (or ends) at Roads End
campground in Lamoille Canyon. The trail runs about 35 miles south to Harrison
Pass and is open June 15 to September 15, depending on weather conditions.
Traversing the high country of the wettest range in Nevada, the trail passes near no
fewer than four glacial lakes and reaches the apex at Wines Peak, more than 10,800
feet above sea level. Water is usually not difficult to find along the way, but always
check with rangers first on trail conditions. While most hikers choose the more
convenient Roads End trailhead, hiking south to north is said to be slightly easier. To
reach the Harrison Pass trailhead from Elko, take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due
south to Jiggs at the 27-mile mark. Continue south as the road turns to gravel and
take the left fork just beyond Barnes Ranch onto dirt Forest Service Road 113, then
climb approximately 10 miles alongside Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. The pass is
often closed in winter, so check road conditions before heading out.
Any number of dayhikes are possible from the Roads End trailhead, including a
strenuous 12-mile round-trip to Favre Lake, set at 9,500 feet. From Roads End, with
fishing pole in hand and fishing license in pocket, you begin the climb from the Ruby
Crest trailhead, cross Lamoille Creek a few times, then step over a footbridge and
come upon the Dollar Lakes. Pause to rest but not to fish, as there are no trout here.
Continue to climb steeply past a short cutoff trail to Lamoille Lake (where brook
trout hide) through an austere, granite landscape to Liberty Pass. At 10,400 feet, this
is the high point of the trek. The trail then descends from nosebleed country,
sideswipes Liberty Lake on the way down and reaches the Favre Lake junction. The
lake itself is about 400 yards off the trail. Feel free, of course, to stop at any point
along the way and turn around to shorten the hike.
Anyone considering a hike in the Ruby Mountains should consult Larry Hyslop’s well-
written 76-page booklet, Hiker’s Guide – Trails in the Elko Area. Hyslop, a computer
instructor at Great Basin College, and his dog Molly, know this region as well as
anyone. The booklet is available through the Elko Chamber of Commerce, 702-
738-7135. For up-to-date trail and weather information for the Ruby or East Humboldt
mountains, contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells,
702-752-3357. The USGS quadrangles covering the Ruby Crest Trail include
Lamoille, Franklin Lake NW, Franklin Lake SW and Harrison Pass.
The East Humboldt Range
The East Humboldt Range south of Wells contains 10 trails that cover 43 miles. Two
trails are easily accessed near the end of NV 231 (Angel Lake Road). The five-mile,
sometimes steep Grey’s Lake Trail begins on the east side of Angel Lake
campground at 8,400 feet and heads north, then west as it crosses the East
Humboldt Wilderness boundary. After about a mile and a half, the trail drops toward
the cross-country cutoff to nearby Smith Lake at Clover Creek and continues north
for half a mile, then descends again to cross Trout Creek. The 1,300-foot climb to
the ridge above the creek almost makes you forget the magnificent wildflower
display put on here. The trail drops again, crosses an alpine meadow and ascends
again past the 9,000-foot mark. Finally, the trail begins a final one-mile descent to
the breathtakingly beautiful five-acre lake at 8,700 feet. The water is stocked with
cutthroat trout. Return the way you came.
An easy four-mile hike to Winchell Lake leaves NV 231 approximately two miles
below Angel Lake. Views of the surrounding mountains are incredible on this open,
exposed route which gains a total of 900 feet to the lake. Beaver ponds are a
common sight along the trail. Unfortunately, Winchell Lake supports no fish (which
makes it a less popular destination), but the five-acre pond is the perfect place for a
picnic. USGS topo maps for Welcome and Herder Creek cover both of the above
hikes.
The Humboldt National Forest Jarbidge District
If you have a hankering for the remotest of the remote, the Humboldt National Forest
Jarbige District beckons with about 150 miles of trail through some of the least-
traveled wilderness in the Lower 48. Most of the paths are found in the 113,000-acre
Jarbidge Wilderness, which became one of the country’s first such areas when
Congress passed the Wilderness Act in 1964. The terrain in this portion of the
national forest ranges from an elevation of 6,000 feet to 10,839 at the summit of
Matterhorn Peak.

Not only does the Jarbidge Wilderness boast one of America’s few closed-canopy,
subalpine forests, but it is Nevada’s only Class 1 Airshed, making it one of 20
national areas used to benchmark clean air. On a good day, hikers and equestrians
can enjoy views extending for 150 miles and more.

Gods Pocket Peak Trail is a great 11-mile backpack trip, providing a window on the
diverse makeup of the local wilderness. To reach the Hummingbird trailhead from
Rogerson, Idaho, the closest town, follow the directions under Jarbidge Touring and
drive about 36 miles west of Rogerson on the Rogerson-Three Creek Highway to the
turnoff for the US Forest Service Pole Creek Site. Follow this road for 17 miles to a
junction and continue on road 284 south for about two miles to a dead end. From the
trailhead, the hike descends gradually on an old road past Hummingbird Spring. Just
past the spring, a trail junction provides access to Cottonwood Trail. Follow the sign
for Gods Pocket Peak Trail as the path continues across a fork of Cottonwood
Creek. Wildflower-filled meadows (what John Muir called “bee pastures”) and aspens
are your companions as you descend about a mile to the lush main branch of
Cottonwood Creek. From the creek, the trail climbs steeply to a ridge, then winds
around the southern and eastern faces of Gods Pocket Peak (the summit stands
10,184 feet) and Divide Peak for a few miles. If the narrow, high-altitude trail
doesn’t take your breath away, the views of Cottonwood Canyon will. After crossing
over the shoulder of Divide Peak, the trail ascends a ridge before before twisting and
turning through a forest of subalipine fir into the Right Fork Camp Creek drainage.
Some excellent campsites are located on the ridge just before the descent. The route
wanders through stunning red-rock terrain before reaching the head of Camp Creek.
You can turn around at this point or continue on to link up with Camp Creek Trail,
Marys River Basin Trail and East Fork of the Jarbidge Trail. Consult topos
covering Goat Creek and Gods Pocket Peak. For more information on trails and maps
for the Jarbidge area, contact the US Forest Service Jarbidge District, 208-543-
4129.
Hiking Outfitters
The following outfitters offer guided hikes and/or horseback rides, as well as outdoor
equipment and good advice.
Winnemucca
Black Rock Outfitters, PO Box 1192, 89446, 702-623-5926.
Pine Forest Guide Service, PO Box 1010, 89446, 702-941-0267.
Jarbidge
Cottonwood Ranch Wilderness Expeditions, PO Box 260070, 89826, 702-752-
3604.
Jarbidge Wilderness Experience, 800-621-0154.
Lowell Prunty, Murphy’s Hot Springs, Rogerson, ID 83302, 208-857-2270.
Elko
Elko Guide Service, HC 30, Box 197, Lower South Fork, 89801, 702-744-2277.
Prunty Ranch Outfitters, 2016 Ellis Way, 89801, 702-738-7811.
Snake Mountain Guide Service, 933 Southside Drive, 89801, 702-777-7241.
Stager’s Outdoor Store, 153 Commercial Street, 89801, 702-753-4333.
Lamoille
Nevada High Country Outfitters, PO Box 281388, 89828, 702-777-3277.
Wells
Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 89835, 702-752-3604.
Hall’s Oufitting & Guide Service, PO Box 399, 89835, 702-752-3778.
Humboldt Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 160, 89835, 702-752-3714.
Nevada High Country Tours, PO Box 135, 89835, 702-752-3040.
Stormy Canyon Cow Camp, PO Box 673, 89835, 702-752-0288.

 On Horseback
For a hearty taste of life in the Great Basin 100 years ago, try the cowboy horseback
rides offered by Elko Guide Service. EGS, which operates on a 6,500-acre ranch near
Elko that's perfectly suited for overnight guests, leads groups of up to 10 riders on
five-day, 43-mile treks along the stunning Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail.
Cowboy poets and musicians come along to entertain the guests, who camp in a log
cabin or wall tents. Trail rides usually take place in July and August, weather
permitting. EGS also offers wagon trips on the Emigrant Trail and discounted
adventures for grandparents who bring along grandchildren. Call 702-744-2277, or
write HC30, Box 17, #13, Elko, NV 89801.
 On Wheels
Fossil & Rock Hunting
For rockhounds with a 4WD vehicle (what true rockhound is without one?), the area
around the Humboldt Range and Grass Valley is ripe for the picking. Begin in
Lovelock by stocking up on extras of everything, including gas. This can be lonely
country. Travel northeast on I-80 about seven miles to the Eagle Picher mill and turn
east onto Coal Canyon Road. Proceed 14 miles to the Dago Pass turnoff and turn east
on a dirt road. Go about six miles to the east side of a low mountain in the Humboldt
Range and scour the earth north and south of the road between the base of the hills
and the flats for fossils.
To continue the adventure, from Dago Pass go 35 miles to a junction with Grass Valley
Road. Turn south and drive seven miles, then take a road heading north for about five
miles. Fossils are also found here, within two miles of the south side of the road.
Fluorspar, titanium and rhodochrosite can be spotted in an area about 12 miles north,
as the road heads northwest toward a mining area. At the northern end of Grass
Valley, the town of Cortez is home to various stone and brick ruins of buildings
constructed here during the silver rush of the 1860s. Today it is the center of a large
gold mining operation.

Beware of old mine shafts, tunnels and diggings in Nevada’s backcountry and stay
away from them at all times. They claim lives every year.

For more details on rockhounding in the area, contact the Pershing County Library,
1125 Central Avenue, Lovelock, NV 89419, 702-273-2216.
Winnemucca Wildlife Watching
South of Winnemucca, a dirt road provides access to one of the area’s well-know
wildlife watching areas. From downtown, drive east on Hanson Street to Grass Valley
Road, then go south 11 miles to unpaved Sonoma Creek Road and turn left. Weasels,
coyotes and mule deer are common mammals found along the creek. Birds of prey
include golden eagles and prairie falcons. For more information, contact the Bureau
of Land Management, 702-623-1500.
Midas Hot Spring
North of Winnemucca, more unpaved paths lead to the soothing waters of Midas Hot
Spring. From Winnemucca, drive 16 miles east on I-80 to NV 789, then northeast for
44 miles (leaving pavement behind) to a junction with the road to Midas. This ghost
town (see Touring, above) is a good side trip. To reach the spring, however, continue
east on NV 789 another four miles to a dirt road heading north. Turn left here and go
3.6 miles to another intersection and turn right, then head another 3.6 miles to the
spring. Evidence of ancient Native American visitors can be found near the water
hole.
Kyle Hot Spring
Winnemucca is also the jumping-off point for a cross-country drive to Kyle Hot Spring.
To reach the site of this former health resort, head west on I-80 29 miles to the Mill
City exit and go south on NV 400 toward Unionville. About 16 miles south of the
highway, turn left on a dirt road and drive nine miles to a fork. Bear left and continue
to the site of the spring, identifiable by the remnants of the resort.
Elko Biking
The city of Elko caters to mountain bikers and road cyclists by offering a smorgasbord
of trails not far from the neon lights. From the 18-mile Four Mile Canyon Trail,
suited for beginners, to the strenuous 15-mile Radio Tower Trail, there is probably
something to fit any skill level and schedule. For detailed information, contact Great
Basin Cyclery (see below) or the Elko Convention and Visitors Bureau, 702-738-
4091.
Biking Outfitters
Elko
Great Basin Cyclery, 452 Idaho Street, 89801, 702-738-8199.
Ship’s Cycles, 172 5th Street, 89801, 702-738-8236.

 On Water
Rye Patch State Recreation Area
Created in 1971, Rye Patch State Recreation Area, 702-538-7321, is a favorite
watering hole for northern Nevadans. The star attraction is Rye Patch Reservoir, a
22-mile-long lake with 72 miles of shoreline and up to 10,800 surface acres,
depending on how wet the preceding winter was. The lake has been known to be
completely or almost completely drained during drought conditions, so call before
making the drive. Various varieties of bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted and
white) inhabit Rye Patch, along with cats and crappie. Anglers have also been known
to pull out a huge walleye or two. A boat ramp is located near the dam at the
southern tip of the reservoir, about 22 miles north of Lovelock. Campsites and an RV
dump station are open all year.
The northern end of Rye Patch, where the Humboldt River meanders into the lake, is
also a good fishing spot. A road heads northwest from I-80 just west of the Imlay exit
and crosses the Humboldt about seven miles later. Rainbow trout are the catch of the
day here.
Chimney Dam Reservoir
Near the bucolic village of Paradise Valley in north central Nevada, Chimney Dam
Reservoir is a 2,100-acre man-made lake that supports a proportionally large
population of game fish. Channel cats, rainbows, mountain whitefish, walleye and
crappie are all said to be available here. Fishing is best in spring and early summer.
The site has a paved boat ramp, campsites and restrooms. To reach the reservoir
from Paradise Valley, travel 24 miles east on gravel NV 290 (Shelton Road) around
the north side of the Hot Springs Range to the shoreline.
North Fork Little Humboldt River
While there are no lakes or reservoirs in the Santa Rosa Mountains north of
Winnemucca, there are 26 streams on Humboldt National Forest lands that offer a
total of 69 miles of fishable waters. The isolated North Fork Little Humboldt River,
accessible from forest lands in the ranges northeast of Hinkey Summit all the way to
the basin at Chimney Dam Reservoir, supports brook, brown and rainbow trout. Since
water levels can change so quickly in mountain streams, contact the US Forest
Service Santa Rosa District, 702-623-5025, for up-to-date information and
directions before heading out.
South Fork Reservoir
Just 19 miles south of Elko, South Fork Reservoir is one of Cowboy Country’s recent
additions to the angler’s itinerary. The 90-foot-high dam holds back the sagebrush-
encircled lake that didn’t reach full capacity until 1995. Here fly fishermen have
pulled in trout tipping the scales at nine pounds, and black bass have become a
favorite catch. The reservoir is also open to water-skiing. There is a campground and
boat ramp on the north shore of this increasingly popular state recreation site, and
everything is open year-round. The nearby South Fork Humboldt River also
provides ample fishing opportunities. To reach the lake from Elko, take NV 227
southeast seven miles to NV 228 and turn right. Continue south 12 miles to the first
of two signed entrances. For more information, call 702-758-6493.
Ruby Marsh National Wildlife Refuge
Located in a relatively remote part of Elko County on the eastern side of the Ruby
Mountains, this is truly a gem for fishermen and bird watchers. The spring-fed
marshes cover more than 8,000 acres, flanked on one side by the picturesque Ruby
Mountains and on another by the sagebrush-blanketed Great Basin. The refuge is
generally divided into two parts: shallow, reed-crowded marshland on the north end
and a deeper lake on the south end. The waterways and channels have produced
some of Nevada’s largest keepers, including a 25-pound brown trout and a rainbow
weighing in at nearly 11 pounds. The area is also known for an abundance of
largemouth bass. Two improved boat ramps are located on the south side of the
refuge, and a campground is found just outside the refuge, midway between the
northern and southern portions.
For Birders
More than 200 species of birds have been recorded at Ruby Marsh, including bald and
golden eagle, trumpeter swam, great sandhill crane, white-faced ibis, short-eared owl
and American kestrel. Water fowl are common in spring and early summer, with
wintering birds such as eagles found here in fall and winter.

To reach the refuge from Elko, take NV 227 southeast to NV 228 due south to Jiggs.
Continue south as the road turns to gravel and take the left fork just beyond Barnes
Ranch onto dirt Forest Service road 113, then climb approximately 10 miles alongside
Toyn Creek to Harrison Pass. Continue over the pass about eight miles to Ruby Valley
Road, turn right and go 11 miles to the refuge. Harrison Pass is often closed in winter,
so check road conditions before heading out. For an easier drive from Wells, take US
93 south to paved NV 229 west, then drive 14 miles to Ruby Valley Road. Turn left
and head south 32 miles. For more information, contact the US Forest Service,
702-738-5171.
The Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail
This provides access to excellent high-country fishing. The most convenient trailhead
is at Roads End, elevation 8,800 feet, at the terminus of Lamoille Canyon Road
southeast of Elko. Within six miles of the trailhead, Lamoille Lake and Favre Lake
contain brook trout, and Liberty Lake holds northern pike.
Angel Lake
Near Wells, 13-acre Angel Lake is a favorite spot for both brook and rainbow trout.
The lake is found at the end of NV 231 high in the East Humboldt Range southwest of
Wells. At the foot of the range, brook trout also run in Angel Creek.
Wild Horse Reservoir
North of Elko, Wild Horse Reservoir is open all year and in the winter is a local hot
spot for ice fishermen. Rainbow, brown and a cross between rainbows and cutthroat,
the bowcut trout, are the best bets here. In warmer months, catfish, white crappie
and smallmouth bass are here for the taking. The reservoir also sports developed
campsites. To reach the 2,400-acre lake, take NV 225 about 65 miles north from Elko.
Blue Lakes
Whoever heard of scuba diving in the desert? Strange as it seems, the spring-fed,
crystalline Blue Lakes, located 12 miles south of Wendover via ALT US 93, have
become a local haven for divers. For more information, contact the Wendover USA
Visitors Bureau, 702-664-3414.
Watersports Outfitters
Winnemucca
Bikes & More, 423 South Bridge Street, 702-625-2453.
 Elko
Dawn’s High Desert Divers, 1250 Lamoille Highway, 89801, 702-777-DIVE.
Elko Guide Service, HC30 Box 17 #13, 89801, 702-744-2277.
Grandview Marine, 285 12th Street, 89801, 702-738-8473.
Raley’s, 2511 Mountain City Highway, 89801, 702-738-2775.
Ruby Valley
Hidden Lake Outfitters, HC 60, PO Box 515, 89833, 702-779-2268.
Secret Pass Outfitters, HC 60, PO Box 685, 89833, 702-779-2226.

 On Snow
Elko SnoBowl
The higher elevatations of Cowboy Country receive several feet of the white stuff
each winter, making for some fine (albeit unglamorous) skiing. You won’t find any
fancy lodges or designer hot chocolate in the region, but you might just find plenty of
uncrowded powder. There are two opportunities for skiing near Elko, one tame and
the other decidedly not so. Elko SnoBowl, 702-738-7135, offers 130 acres of terrain,
ranging from 5,500 to 6,500 feet. Half the runs are rated novice and half intemediate.
There is one chairlift and one surface lift, along with plenty of room for snowboarders.
The hill is generally open weekends from December through mid-March, depending
on snowfall. The SnoBowl is located five miles north of town in the Adobe Range. For
aficionados of the black diamonds – and beyond – Ruby Mountain Heli-Ski, 702-
753-6867, will fly extremists into the range southeast of Elko and up to as high as
11,200 feet. The outfit boasts 5,000 acres of skiable mountain, covering 5,200
vertical feet. Snowboarders are welcome and rental equipment is available. Three-
day packages based out of Red’s Ranch include skiing plus food, lodging and all the
extras. Trips are limited to 16 people, so reserve spots as far in advance as possible,
especially for the relatively short high season that typically peaks in February and
March.

Where To Stay & Eat

 Accommodations
Lovelock
The rooms are pretty basic in Lovelock. The Best Western Sturgeon’s, 1420
Cornell Avenue, 800-528-1234, $$$, is the most happening place in town, with a 24-
hour casino, restaurant, lounge, pool and jacuzzi, not to mention 74 rooms. The
Lovelock Inn, 55 Cornell Avenue, 702-273-2937, $-$$, is convenient to I-80, but
still on a quiet street near the Marzen House museum.
Unionville
Not far from where Mark Twain worked an ill-fated silver claim for a few weeks in
1862, Old Pioneer Garden Guest Ranch, 2805 Unionville Road, 702-538-7585, $
$, has nine rooms set in a lovingly restored farmhouse. Proprietors Lew and Mitzie
Jones raise barnyard animals and fresh vegetables. Although there isn’t a television
to be found, there is a trout stream and pond near the property. Rates include a
ranch-style breakfast. Lunch and dinner are extra. To reach the ranch from I-80, drive
south on NV 400 13 miles to the Unionville road, then head west for five miles to
town.
Winnemucca
Is Winnemucca a traveler’s town? There are more than 900 hotel rooms in a town
with a population of less than 7,000. The chain establishments pretty much dominate
the scene on the main drag (Winnemucca Boulevard), starting with the two biggies,
the Red Lion Inn, 741 West Winnemucca Boulvard, 800-633-6435, $$-$$$, and the
Motel 6, 1600 West Winnemucca Boulvard, 702-623-1180, $-$$. The Lion has 106
rooms along with a casino, restaurant and full bar. The Motel 6 is casino-less but does
have a pool. There are also two Best Westerns. The Gold Country Inn, 921 West
Winnemucca Boulvard, 800-346-5306, $$-$$$, also has a pool to go with its 71
rooms, and the Holiday Motel, 670 West Winnemucca Boulvard, 800-262-8901, $$,
offers 40 rooms. Rounding out the chain gang are two relatively identical 50-roomers,
the Super 8, 1157 West Winnemucca Boulvard, 702-625-1818, $-$$, and the Days
Inn, 511 West Winnemucca Boulvard, 702-623-3661, $-$$.
The larger of the various and sundry motels lining the boulevard include the two-
story, 46-room Pyrenees Motel, 714 West Winnemucca Boulvard, 702-623-1116, $
$, the 80-room Val-U Inn, 125 East Winnemucca Boulvard, 702-623-5248, $$, and
the Model T Motel, 1122 West Winnemucca Boulvard, 800-645-5658, $-$$, which
has 75 rooms along with a casino and restaurant. Off the beaten asphalt a bit is
Scott’s Shady Court, 400 1st Street, $-$$, 702-623-3646, offering 70 rooms.
Elko
Elko has more hotel rooms than any city for hundreds of miles around, but don’t be
surprised if an empty one is rather hard to find on a summer weekend. Most of the
large hotels and motels are strung along Idaho Street, including the queen of Elko
establishments, the Red Lion Inn, 2065 Idaho Street, 800-545-0044, $$-$$$$. The
Red Lion not only has a casino, eateries, a lounge with live entertainment, a pool and
223 rooms, but also its own charter airline, Casino Express. If you want all the extras
of a reliable chain hotel without the razzle-dazzle of a casino, the 170-room Holiday
Inn, 3015 Idaho Street,  702-738-8425, $$-$$$, is for you. There are three Best
Westerns in Elko, the Gold Country Motor Inn, 2050 Idaho Street,  702-738-8421,
$$, with 150 rooms, casino, restaurant and bar, the Ameritel Inn Elko, 1930 Idaho
Street,  702-738-8787, $$-$$$, with 110 rooms and an indoor pool, and the generic,
49-room Ameritel Inn Express, 837 Idaho Street,  702-738-7261, $$. There are
plenty of cheap, basic motels on the main drag, including the Super 8, 1755 Idaho
Street,  702-738-8488, $-$$, and the Thunderbird Motel, 345 Idaho Street,  702-
738-7115, $-$$.
Away from Idaho Street, Stockmen’s Hotel, 340 Commercial Street, 702-738-
5141, $-$$, is a relative bargain with its full-fledged casino, restaurants, bar and pool.
There are 141 rooms. The Shilo Inn, 2401 Mountain City Highway, 702-738-5522, $
$-$$$, has 70 rooms, some with kitchenettes, along with a pool, jacuzzi and fitness
center.
For a real taste of Cowboy Country, check out any of the handful of guest ranches
near Elko. Jiggs Guest Ranch, $$$-$$$$, Ruby Crest Guest Ranch, $$$-$$$$, and
Ruby Marshes Guest Ranch, $$$-$$$$, can all be reached by calling 702-744-
2277. Ranch hands will even pick up guests at the airport.
Lamoille
There may be no prettier town in Nevada than Lamoille, sleeping quietly at the feet
of the towering Ruby Mountains. Experience the tranquility at Pine Lodge/Hotel
Lamoille, PO Box 281208, Lamoille, 89828, 702-753-6363, $$, which beckons
weary travelers with bed and breakfast. There are three rooms and even pets are
allowed. The Pine Lodge also serves hearty dinners. The place is located on NV 227
just as you drive into town. Breitenstein House Bed & Breakfast, PO Box 281381,
702-753-6356, $$-$$$, has three rooms in the main lodge and a large, detached
cabin with jacuzzi. There is a restaurant just a few feet away.
Just outside of Lamoille, Red’s Ranch, 702-753-6281, $$$$, is an exclusive, all-
inclusive bed & breakfast and conference center set in the splendor of the canyon.
There are 13 sumptuous rooms, a swimming pool, jucuzzi and plenty of après-soak
activities, including skeet shooting, hiking and fly fishing. The ranch is also the home
base of Ruby Mountain Heli-Skiing.
Paradise Valley
Located about 35 miles north of the town of Winnemucca, Stonehouse Country
Inn, 702-578-3530, $$, offers all types of accommodations: six private rooms in the
two-story ranch house, a bunkhouse and stables for individuals and groups. There is
even space for campers and RVers. Proprietor Steve Lucas and chef Jean Thomas also
serve homemade dinners and desserts. The inn is a great basecamp for hiking, biking
and horseback riding.
Jarbidge
For a settlement whose only year-round access is an unpaved road running down
from Idaho, Jarbidge has some decent rooming options. On Main Street, the Outdoor
Inn, 702-488-2311, $-$$, has 13 indoor rooms and a restaurant. On the north side
of town, Tsawhawbitts Ranch Bed & Breakfast, PO Box 260090, Jarbidge, 89826,
702-408-2338, $$-$$$, offers a total of nine rooms in two separate structures built
in 1974. Some folks also rent out their homes and cabins to vacationers. For more
information, contact Rey and Marguerite Nystrom at the Trading Post, 702-488-
2315.
Wells
A large Motel 6, 702-752-2116, $, sits smack dab at the intersection of I-80 and US
93. There are 122 rooms and a pool to ease that Great Basin summer heat. There are
plenty of other generic motels to choose from, most of them planted along 6th
Street. The Super 8, 930 6th Street, 702-752-3384, $-$$, boasts a restaurant and
lounge with regular live entertainment. There are 57 rooms. Down the street, the
Rest Inn Suites, 1250 East 6th Street, 702-752-2277, $-$$, has 56 rooms, and the
Best Western Sage Motel, 576 6th Street, 702-752-3353, $-$$, offers another 24
rooms, if you’re into chains. If not, there’s the Wagon Wheel Motel, 326 6th Street,
702-752-2151, $, the Chinatown Motel, 455 South Humboldt Avenue, 702-752-
2101, $, which has 20 rooms and serves some of the only Chinese food in Cowboy
Country, and the Old West Inn, 456 6th Street, 702-752-3888, $, which also has a
restaurant and bar.
Cottonwood Ranch, HC 62, PO Box 1300, 702-752-3604, $$$-$$$$, is a working
cattle ranch with five guest rooms that welcomes tourists (“dudes”) for adventure
vacations. A more genteel setting can be found at Grandmother’s Bed &
Breakfast, HC 62, PO Box 300, 702-752-3065, $$-$$$, which has four tastefully
appointed rooms and a stocked trout pond. Grandmother’s is located about eight
miles north of Wells on the road to the ghost town of Metropolis.
Wendover
With the growing acceptance of gambling as a national pastime, even by the
neighbors in Utah, Wendover has becoming a very popular overnight destination.
There are more than 1,000 hotel rooms on the Nevada side of the border alone,
including a combined 600 at the huge State Line/Silver Smith Hotels, 100
Wendover Boulevard, 800-848-7300, $-$$$$. Of course the main attractions here
are the glitzy casinos, which are connected by an elevated walkway over the
boulevard. Together these places have many Vegas-style amenities, including
restaurants and lounges, live showroom entertainment, a health club, pool, jacuzzi,
tennis courts, 18-hole golf course and even an airport shuttle.
Runner-up in size is the Nevada Crossing Hotel, 1035 Wendover Boulevard, 800-
537-0207, $$-$$$, which has 137 rooms to go along with the standard casino,
restaurants, lounges, pool and jacuzzi. The Peppermill Hotel, 680 Wendover
Boulevard, 800-648-9660, $$, is another gamer’s haven, with 90 rooms, a 14,000-
square-foot casino, live entertainment, dancing and an 18-hole golf course. Nearby,
the Super 8, 1325 Wendover Boulevard, 702-664-2888, $-$$, offers 74 rooms
directly adjacent to the Red Garter casino, which has live entertainment. There are
also numerous motels across the state line in Utah.
 Restaurants
Lovelock
There are a handful of eateries here offering not a whole lot more than diner fare,
Mexican food and pizza. In the center of town, Mama Jean’s Grill and Pastry
Shop, 260 Maine Street, 702-273-2442, is the perfect place to grab a quick-but-
hearty meal and catch up on the local goings-on. The squeaky clean establishment is
open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday, and until 2 PM on
Sunday. There are two pizza parlors within a few blocks of each other. Wee B’s Pizza
& More, 485 Cornell Avenue, 702-273-7444, is open until 10 PM every day, and
Pizza Factory, 750 Cornell Avenue, 702-273-3232, is open until 11 PM Friday and
Saturday, 9 PM on Sunday. La Casita, 410 Cornell Avenue, 702-273-7773, serves
three squares of homemade Mexican and American Monday through Saturday. Open
24 hours a day and seven days a week, the coffee shop in Sturgeon’s casino, 1420
Cornell Avenue, 702-273-2971, offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, along with daily
specials.
Winnemucca
When in Winnemucca, do as the Winnemuccans do: eat Basque. One of the most
popular joints in town is the Martin Motel, at the corner of Melarkey and Railroad
streets, 702-623-3197, which basks in the Basque tradition. The 100-year-old Martin
is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner seven days a week, serving
steak, leg of lamb, shrimp and Basque side dishes.

Don’t miss the “famous Winnemucca potatoes” from Don and Jerry Kracaw’s farm,
home of the world’s largest potato field. The town’s potato processing plant is the
planet’s largest dehydration facility and supplies the flakes for each and every
Pringles potato chip.

A hankering for Basque cuisine can also be satisfied at Ormachea’s, 180 Melarkey
Street, 702-623-3455, which is supposedly the locals’ choice. The atmosphere is
definitely casual. Restaurante San Fermin, 485 West Winnemucca Boulevard,
 702-625-2555, offers traditional Basque tapas along with live entertainment. The
bar opens at 4:30 PM and dinner service begins at 5 PM. American and Basque food
has been served on the site of the Winnemucca Hotel, 95 South Bridge Street,
 702-623-2908, since 1863.
The Steak House, 5186 East Winnemucca Boulevard, 702-623-1444 is the home
of the famous two-pound T-bone steak, while The Griddle, 460 West Winnemucca
Boulevard, 702-623-2977, has been owned and operated by the Aboud family since
1960. It’s a great breakfast or lunch stop, but get there before 1 PM. China Garden,
1061 West Fourth Street, 702-623-6777, wows visitors with more than 120 entrées
and lunch and dinner specials. Next door is DJ’s Flyin’ Pig BBQ, 1100 West
Winnemucca Boulevard, 702-623-4104, where the meat is served right out of a real
hickory pit. There is also more than enough fast food and casino coffeeshop fare to go
around in Winnemucca, with the highlight being Taylor Made Foods, 597 West
Winnemucca Boulevard, 702-623-4440, which features Pap’s pizza and pasta and
miner’s sandwiches.
Elko
The Red Lion Inn, 2065 Idaho Street, 800-545-0044, is the largest hotel-casino in
town and one of the most convenient places to grab a bite or two or three. There’s an
all-you-can-eat buffet, 24-hour coffee shop and Misty’s restaurant. Specializing in
steak, seafood and chicken, Misty’s is open for lunch and dinner Sunday through
Thursday, and dinner only Friday and Saturday. Stockmen’s Hotel, 340 Commercial
Street, 702-738-5141, has a great steakhouse that is open for dinner every night.
Winnemucca isn’t the only place for Basque cuisine. Toki Ona, 1550 Idaho Street,
702-738-3214, opens at 6 AM and doesn’t stop serving Basque and American
specialties until 9:30 PM. This being ranch country, all of their meat is cut to order.
Another Basque establishment, Biltoki’s Basque-American Dinner House, 405
Silver Street, 702-738-9691, is open Thursday through Tuesday for dinner. In the
tradition of a sheepherding people, lamb is one of the menu’s staples. If you crave
Mexican food, 9 Beans and a Burrito, in the Elko Junction center at 2503 Mountain
City Highway, 702-738-7898, is a festive cantina that turns out three meals a day
and makes tortillas and salsa by hand. The breakfast burritos are particularly good.
La Fiesta, 780 Commercial Street, 702-738-1622, serves lunch and dinner and
makes a great margarita. Hungy for pizza? Eat in the barn. Pizza Barn, in the
Sunrise Shopping Center at 2598 Idaho Street, 702-738-2541, opens daily at 11 AM,
just in case you need one of their hot-and-delicious pies for brunch. You can catch the
triple threat of a great steak, cold beer and the ballgame on the tube at Matties,
2525 Mountain City Highway, 702-753-3877. D’Orazio’s Italian Gardens, 217
Idaho Street, 702-738-7088, delivers on its name, opening its outdoor patio when
the weather cooperates. Specializing in family spaghetti dinners and homemade
soups, D’Orazio’s also grills a mean steak and serves various seafood entrées. One of
the best places to stock up on supplies before a trip into the backcountry is the giant
Smith’s Food & Drug Center, 1740 Mountain City Highway.
Lamoille
Breitenstein’s House, 702-753-6356, adjacent to the Breitenstein’s Bed &
Breakfast behind the Presbyterian Church, is a classy-yet-casual establishment that
has been serving superb steaks to guests and passers-by alike since the mid ’70s.
Prices range from moderate to expensive. Pine Lodge, 702-753-6363, also serves
hearty meals.
Jarbidge
Go indoors at the Outdoor Inn, 702-488-2311, to peruse the ornate bar, carved
from European mahogany in the 1880s and shipped around the Horn to San
Francisco, where it survived The Big One in ’06. The food’s not bad either at the
adjacent Tired Devil Café. The inn/café is open mid-May through early November,
depending on weather conditions. Be sure to stock up on provisions at the Trading
Post, 702-488-2315, on your way in and out (the place closes at 6 PM), because
Jarbidge is simply a long way from anywhere that’s anywhere.
Wells
There isn’t much but diner food in this town of about 1,300 souls. Burger Bar, Main
and Humboldt Streets, 702-752-3210, has a varied assortment of protein-powered
cuisine, while the Flying J truck stop’s Country Market Restaurant and the 4 Way
Casino on the east end of Wells both serve it up hot 24 hours a day.
Wendover
The hotel-casinos offer all manner of cuisine, ranging from cheap-and-satisfying to
four-course gourmet meals. The combined State Line/Silver Smith Hotels, 100
Wendover Boulevard, 800-848-7300, offer 12 different restaurants, including the
ubiquitous casino buffet, which is open for brunch on weekends and dinner every
evening. The Peppermill Hotel, 680 Wendover Boulevard, 800-648-9660, fêtes
feasters with everything from Mongolian barbecue to a seafood buffet, offering three
all-you-can-down meals every day. Both hotels also have 24-hour coffee shops.
 Camping
Evidence of early American campers dating back 8,000 years has been found near
the present-day site of Rye Patch State Recreation Area, 22 miles north of
Lovelock. For modern hunter-gatherers, the area has two campgrounds. One on the
Humboldt River south of the dam has sites with shade trees and running water. The
other one, just north of the dam,offers direct access to the lake but is more primitive,
with pit toilets and hand-pumped water. Fees are $7 per night in summer, $3 per
night in winter. The main draw here is 11,000-acre Rye Patch Reservoir, which holds
trout and walleye. For more information, call 702-538-7321.
Just minutes from downtown Winnemucca, there is primitive camping at Water
Canyon State Recreation Area, located at the end of Hanson Street. The local
creek runs in spring and early summer, and there are opportunities for cross-country
skiing in winter. For more information, call 800-962-2638.
In the Santa Rosa Range north of Paradise Valley, Lye Creek Campground has 13
family sites and a group site that accommodates up to 100 people. There is running
water and vault toilets. The fee is $6 per night for a one-family site, $8 for a two-
family site. Set at 7,400 feet, the campground is usually open mid-June through mid-
October. The campground is located off NV 290/Forest Service Road 804 in Humboldt
National Forest. For more information, call 702-738-5171.
About 25 miles south of Elko in the Ruby Mountains, Thomas Canyon Campground
is found eight miles up the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway. Running water and vault
toilets are available for the 39 sites, some of which are adjacent to Lamoille Creek.
Sites 22, 23, 25, 27 and 29 are especially good. The fee is $7 per night. Set at 7,600
feet, the campground is generally open from late May through late September. In the
East Humboldt Range south of Wells, two beautiful US Forest Service campgrounds
are just minutes from I-80. Angel Creek Campground rests on the eastern fringe of
the mountains, offering 18 sites with running water. Only eight miles south of Wells
on NV 231, Angel Creek is set at 6,800 feet and is popular with anglers. The
campground is usually open May 23 through October, and the fee is $7 per night. At
the end of NV 231 near the crest of the mountains, Angel Lake Campground is
even more popular with local fishermen. Set at 8,500 feet, four steep miles west of
Angel Creek, the 26 campsites are near the shore of the gorgeous 13-acre lake. The
campground is usually open June 21 through early September, and the fee is $8 per
night. Sites 17 and 20 are directly adjacent to the water. For information on the above
campgrounds, contact the US Forest Service Ruby Mountains District in Wells,
702-752-3357.
Off NV 225 about 73 miles north of Elko, Wildhorse State Recreation Area is
located in Owyhee Canyon on the edge of Humboldt National Forest. The
campground, has 37 first-come, first-served sites. The sites are near both the
Owyhee River and Wildhorse Reservoir, and are open June to October. The fee is $5
per night. There are also two US Forest Service campgrounds nearby. About five miles
up NV 225, Wildhorse Crossing Campground offers 17 sites on sagebrush-dotted
Humboldt National Forest land at 5,900 feet. There is no running water and the fee is
$6 per night. The campground is generally open May 23 through November 15. There
are 13 sites in forested Big Bend Campground, located off Elko county road 745
about seven miles from Wildhorse Reservoir. There is running water and the fee is $6
per night. The campground is generally open June 1 through November 15.
There are several good camping options near the isolated village of Jarbidge,
including three run by the US Forest Service. One mile south of town on Elko county
road 752, Jarbidge Campground has four family sites and one group site, all free,
with running water. Two miles south of Jarbidge campground, Pine Creek
Campground has five free family sites, but no running water. Both campgrounds are
generally open June through November 15. One mile north of town, the Forest Service
rents recreation cabins at Mahoney campground. The fee varies between $20 and
$30 per night, depending on the availability of running water. The cabins are open
October through mid-May. For more information, contact the US Forest Service
Jarbidge District, 208-543-4129.
Pioneer Territory
Before he became patriarch of the American conservation movement, writer,
naturalist and wanderer John Muir adventured in this region of Nevada. Few are
aware that in 1878 he traveled with a Coast and Geodetic Survey party to Pioneer
Territory and marveled at the unique and vast landscape of the Great Basin. He later
wrote of six simultaneous cloudbursts falling from different parts of the Nevada sky,
marveled that the Native Americans’ pine nut harvest was greater in abundance than
the entire wheat crop of California, and retold tales of climbing Mount Jefferson, an
11,949-foot peak in the Toquima Range.
Much has changed since Muir set boots in Pioneer Territory. The inevitable boom-and-
bust cycle of a minerals-based economy has left an indelible mark on central Nevada,
both socially and physically. Get-rich-quick towns that once boasted populations in
the thousands are now empty shells, like Belmont and Rhyolite. Others, like Silver
Peak and Goldfield, are in a state of “arrested decay,” where the few residents hold
fast to the glories of the past. The Shoshone and Paiute peoples, who once roamed
this entire area, search for meaning and identity both inside and outside their
communities. Meanwhile, new boomtowns like Pahrump and Mesquite, fueled by
expanding local economies and gambling revenues, are dealing with the immense
challenges of double-digit annual population growth. And the entire West struggles
with central Nevada’s nuclear monster. The atomic bomb tests held for 40 years at
the Nevada Test Site are finally a thing of the past, but many Nevadans wonder what
radioactive legacy remains. All the while they ponder the federal government’s plans
for a new nuclear waste depository at Yucca Mountain near Beatty.
Some things haven’t changed all that much since the early days, however. Cities like
Tonopah and Hawthorne that sprang up not long after Muir left have survived and
matured in areas where mining continues in gigantic open pits. Much of the land itself
is still wild – and still almost entirely owned by one or another arm of the
government: BLM, US Forest Service, Department of Defense, Nevada Division of
State Parks. The backcountry remains the land of cloudbursts, pinyon pine forests
and basin and range that Muir admired. There are portions of Death Valley National
Park, Toiyabe, Humboldt and Inyo National Forests, four federally designated
wilderness areas that are among the least visited in the country, and six state parks
to explore.
Geographically, Pioneer Territory is like a wrinkled blanket, with the Mojave Desert
baking in the far west near the California border, and the narrow mountains and
valleys characteristic of the Great Basin stretching east toward Utah. In the lowlands,
smoky-blue sagebrush and greasewood roll on for miles and miles, giving way to
serviceberry bushes and wildflowers in the foothills, forests of pinyon pine and
juniper, then limber pine at higher elevations. There is plenty of unspoiled territory,
where coyotes chase black-tailed jackrabbits and where mounton lions, Rocky
Mountain elk, desert bighorn sheep and rainbow trout travel undisturbed in the
mountains, all watched by golden eagles and red-tailed hawks.
Adventuring in Pioneer Territory is not without its hazards. People and services are
scarce, and some roads go untrammeled for days or weeks at a time. In the Mojave
Desert, temperatures routinely climb above 120°, and in the high elevations of the
mountain ranges snowstorms can hit any time of the year. Go prepared in a reliable
vehicle – some areas require 4WD – stocked with plenty of supplies and leave an
itinerary and emergency instructions with someone reliable.

Touring
Since more than 90% of Nevada visitors enter the state through Las Vegas, the
following section assumes adventurers will start there. The first part of Touring covers
the western portion of Pioneer Territory beginning west of Vegas in Pahrump and
proceeds northwest to Reno-Tahoe Territory. The eastern tour begins northeast of
Vegas in Overton and traces a path north toward Great Basin National Park.
Pahrump
About 65 miles west of Las Vegas on NV 160 lies Pahrump, a rapidly-growing
community of about 24,000. Pahrump has seen an influx of new residents from not
only Nevada, but the rest of the country. They’ve come for the unique mix of open
spaces, low taxes, affordable housing and 216 days of sunshine a year. Pahrump is
growing at an annual rate of 15 to 17%, making it one of the fastest growing rural
areas in the country. It’s also one of the hottest, with summer temperatures soaring
well above 100°.
A Winery in Nevada?
Pahrump Valley Vineyards, 3810 Winery Road, 702-727-6900, is the first and, as
of this writing, only winery in Nevada. On the south end of town in a modern, mission-
style, blue and white building, the winery offers free tours and houses a fine
restaurant that is open for lunch (noon to 3:30 PM) and dinner (5 PM to 9 PM).
Although a bit on the pricey side (hey, there’s no competition), the food and drink
rival anything in Northern California’s famed wine country. The Grape Stomp Festival
is held every October.

Equiphiles might want to stop by Painted Desert Legacy Ranch, 1771 Sagehen
Road, 702-751-0821, for a look at Lynda and Kevin Roberts’ beautiful show horses.
The Roberts have almost single-handedly established the community as a font of
prize-winning animals. Pahrump is also the home of the US Department of Energy’s
Yucca Mountain Science Center, 1141 South Highway 160, 702-727-0896, where
the government puts a positive spin on its scheme to truck waste from 108 nuclear
reactors across the country to an underground site northwest of town near Beatty. In
1997, Congress passed the Nuclear Waste Policy Act, authorizing up to 90,000
shipments of radioactive waste into the Yucca Mountain site. According to Winona
LaDuke, founder of White Earth Recovery Project and a Nevada Shoshone, the waste-
bearing trucks will pass within half a mile of 50 million Americans.
Information Sources

For more Pahrump information, contact the Chamber of Commerce, 702-727-

5800.

Ash Meadows
Hidden in a quiet, often overlooked corner of central Nevada, Ash Meadows
National Wildlife Refuge is an unhurried spot where visitors can while away an
hour or an entire day searching out finger-sized fish under the endless sky. The
22,000-acre refuge is managed by the US Fish & Wildlife Service, whose primary
purpose is protecting the area’s endemic species. It’s no easy job, considering that
24 different animals and plants call nowhere else but Ash Meadows home, giving it a
higher concentration of endemic species than any other local area in the country, and
the second-greatest in all of North America. Hot water bubbles to the surface in more
than 30 places throughout the refuge, providing homes for several species of aquatic
rarities, including the famed Devil’s Hole pupfish, which lives solely in a fenced-off
pool at the bottom of a stone cauldron, inaccessible to the general public. Visitors
can, however, view the equally tiny Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish from a wooden
boardwalk near the refuge headquarters. The refuge’s marshes and reservoirs also
attract a wide variety of birds and small mammals, including ducks, coots, moorhens,
snipe, mallards, great blue herons, white-faced ibises, prairie falcons, coyotes and
rabbits.
To reach the refuge from central Pahrump, go three miles north on NV 160 to Bell
Vista Road and turn left, then head west for about 20 miles, following the signs to Ash
Meadows. Note that the refuge’s unpaved roads are often impassable when wet, and
shotgun hunting and dogs are allowed in most of the refuge during hunting season.
Call ahead for road conditions and safety tips. Swimming is allowed in Crystal
Reservoir, and motorless boating is permitted in Crystal and Peterson reservoirs.
Camping is prohibited inside the refuge.
Information Sources

For more information, contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge

headquarters, HCR 70, Box 610Z, Amargosa Valley, NV 89020, 702-372-5435.

Amargosa Valley
With a population of about 1,300 spread over 545 square miles, the unincorporated
town of Amargosa Valley offers plenty of elbow room. If you’re ready for a break after
the 41-mile drive from Pahrump, stop in at Rosa’s on NV 373 at Mecca Road, 702-
372-1131, for some handmade Mexican food.
Information Sources

Contact the Amargosa Chamber of Commerce, HC 70, PO Box 6102, Amargosa

Valley, NV 89020, 702-372-5459, and ask for a copy of The Amargosa News.

Beatty
The Gateway to Death Valley, Beatty is the outpost nearest the small portion of
Death Valley National Park that extends into Nevada. Located on US 95 29 miles
northwest of Amargosa Valley, Beatty is 41 miles north of Death Valley’s Furnace
Creek (California) visitors center. A National Park Service ranger station in Beatty
provides information, maps, and collects the $10-per-vehicle entrance fee.
Information Sources

Visit the ranger station at 307 Main Street, 702-553-2200, for more information.

Just four miles west of Beatty in the dun-colored hills lies Rhyolite, one of the most
photogenic ghost towns in the West. Now recognized as a state historic site, Rhyolite
was founded soon after Frank “Shorty” Harris and Eddie Cross struck paydirt among
the characteristic green rocks in 1904. The Bullfrog Mining District sprouted up and
counted 2,000 claims over 30 square miles. Rhyolite was the center of the mining
boom (which continues on an industrial scale today in Nye County) that once
supported a population of 8,000, 50 saloons, 19 hotels, three newspapers, two
hospitals and a busy red-light district. The Bullfrog District hiccuped in 1910 when the
water was turned off and by 1919 Rhyolite had croaked. Some of the well-preserved
structures include Tom T. Kelly’s Bottle House, constructed in 1905 almost entirely
of glass bottles; the gray, stone skeleton of the three-story Cook Bank building,
built with marble floors at a cost of $90,000; and the old train depot. A group called
the Friends of Rhyolite are working to preserve and promote the sights for future
generations through fundraisers and walking tours. The combined fanfare of Beatty
Railroad Days and the Rhyolite Living Festival are held each June.
Information Sources
For more information, contact the Beatty Chamber of Commerce, 702-553-2424.

Between Beatty and Rhyolite, the Gold Well Open Air Museum presents an odd
assortment of large-scale sculpture, a massive project begun by artist Albert
Szukalski in 1984. By far the spookiest piece is “Last Supper,” a collection of white,
life-size, shrouded figures that seem as frozen in time as nearby Rhyolite. Local
residents were used as models, who were draped in clothes soaked in wet plaster to
create molds, which were then left to harden under the Mojave Desert sun.

Don’t miss the 25-foot-high pink woman made of cinder blocks, and the 24-foot-high
silhouette of a prospector and his trusty penguin companion.

Another ghost of a town rests in pieces three miles south of Beatty on a hill west of
US 95. In the first decade of the 20th century, the settlement of Gold Center was
developed not for the sake of mineral riches, but because of its proximity to the
Amargosa River. Gold Center served the nearby mining towns and milled their ore
until about 1910, when the money ran dry. Today the remains of stone buildings,
concrete foundations and rusting equipment are all that’s left.
Goldfield
Founded in 1902, Goldfield is one of the state’s finest examples of a well-preserved,
turn-of-the-century frontier community. Once the largest city in the state, Goldfield’s
mines were producing $10,000 a day worth of ore in 1907, keeping a population of
more than 20,000 dizzy with gold fever. The 1906 world lightweight championship
bout, promoted by soon-to-be boxing legend Tex Rickard, went 42 bloody rounds
before Joe Gans won on “Battling” Nelson’s low blow. By 1920, however, the largest
of the mines had been played out and shut down, and in 1923 a fire destroyed most
of the structures and burned the soul out of Goldfield. Today a population of about
400 lives out the dream here, 67 miles north of Beatty and hip-to-hip with the Nellis
Air Force Bombing and Gunnery Range. The most amazing sight is the four-story brick
Goldfield Hotel, constructed in 1908 for $500,000. It boasted an all-mahogany
lobby, crystal chandeliers, a gourmet dining room and a phone for every guest.
Renovations are about 80% complete, with the locals always eager to find a buyer to
finish the job. The fortress-like Esmeralda County Courthouse, built in 1908 and
still in use today, was originally outfitted with a set of Tiffany crystal lamps. Stop to
quench your thirst at the Santa Fe Saloon (1905) and tell your friends you wet your
whistle at one of the oldest continually operating bars in the West, then head to The
Mozart for a quick bite to eat.
About 30 miles southwest of Goldfield via US 95, NV 266 and unpaved NV 774, the
town of Gold Point is still breathing, more than 130 years after it was founded as
Lime Point. There are 50 or so buildings dating back at least 70 years, including the
old post office that is now the local museum. Gold Point is also the home of Earth
Connections, a non-profit conservation group that cares for threatened and
endangered animals. Tourists can visit a wolf or hawk. Gold Point also offers RV
hookups and guided tours.
Information Sources

For more information on Goldfield or Gold Point, contact the Goldfield Chamber of
Commerce, 702-485-6365.

Tonopah
The largest city in this portion of Pioneer Territory, Tonopah has ridden the roller
coaster of the mining industry since rancher Jim Butler first discovered silver and set
off the local boom in 1900.

Shootout-at-the-OK-Corral survivor Wyatt Earp ran a saloon here in 1904, around the
time future heavyweight boxing champion Jack Dempsey was working as a bouncer
at the Mizpah Hotel.

Today Tonopah is a good jumping-off point for hiking and fishing expeditions and
general exploring because of its prime location: 26 miles north of Goldfield at the
intersection of north-south-running US 95 and NV 376, and east-west-running US 6.
Before heading out, however, pick up a copy of the superb visitors pamphlet from the
Chamber of Commerce, 301 Brougher Avenue, 702-482-3558, and spend a few
hours following its trail. Just off US 95 on Logan Field Road, the Central Nevada
Museum, 702-482-9676, boasts a yard and building full of an extensive collection
of artifacts, photographs and exhibits, including one on Nevada’s unsung Chinese
immigrants who helped build the state’s first infrastructure and once constituted 6%
of the population. A library, slide show and research facilities, including a map room,
are available by special request. The museum is open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM. Admission
is free.
The Tonopah Historic Mining Park is one of Nevada’s true hidden gems, not to
mention a very commendable effort at sustaining the memories of the Wild West’s
heyday. Located on the north edge of town, near the end of Queen Street below
Mount Oddie, the 70-acre park is situated on the site of Jim Butler’s original Tonopah
mining claim. The hillsides abound with the original headframes, power plants, ore
bins, mine stopes (step-shaped excavations found in old mines) and numerous
mining artifacts. As this is being written, park officials are planning regular tours on
Saturdays. For more information, call 702-482-5355.
Other highlights on the streets of Tonopah include the 1905 Neo-Classical Nye
County Courthouse, the Queen Anne-style Arthur Raycraft House, which dates
to 1906, and the 1907 George A. Bartlett House. As a judge, Bartlett was primarily
responsible for Nevada’s unique divorce laws, which helped put the state on the map.
Within an hour’s drive of Tonopah are three of America’s newest and least-visited
federally designated wilderness areas: Arc Dome, Alta Toquima and Table
Mountain, which total more than 260,000 acres. For more on these wonderful
regions, see below under On Foot.
Hawthorne
US 6/95 heads east from Tonopah 38 miles to Coaldale, where US 95 continues north
and west 63 miles to the small city of Hawthorne. Like many Nevada locales,
Hawthorne has risen and fallen with the mines around it. Gold was discovered near
here in 1860, and in 1881 the Carson and Colorado railroad established a shipping
terminus at Hawthorne. The town became the Esmeralda County seat in 1883, but
lost it soon after when the tracks were rerouted. In 1911, state senator Fred Balzar
helped carve out a new county, Mineral, with Hawthorne the new seat. No doubt he
carried Mineral County when he was later elected governor. When the 400-square-
mile Naval Ammunition Depot was established in Hawthorne in 1927, the town
exploded – figuratively – and by World War II the mostly military population was
14,000. Today the Army Ammunition Depot is the largest of its kind in the world,
encircling Hawthorne and its 5,000 residents.
The Mineral County Museum, at the corner of 10th and D streets, 702-945-5142,
shows off the area’s heritage with special collections of mining, fire and railroad
equipment, cameras and photography, Victorian furniture, rocks, minerals, wildlife
and fossils. The museum is open Monday through Friday, 11 AM to 5 PM in summer,
noon to 4 PM in winter. Visitors can also make appointments for Saturdays and
Sundays. Admission is free.
The main attraction, however, is nearby Walker Lake. Almost 15 miles long and six
miles wide, Walker Lake even has its own lake-serpent legend. (See On Water, below.)
Before heading to the lake, be sure to stop at Bob and Peggy Tompkins’ Gun &
Tackle, 898 E Street,  702-945-3266, to inquire about current fishing conditions and
the latest gear and maps.
Near the northern tip of the lake, where US 95 and ALT US 95 split, the village of
Shurz is the administrative center of the Walker River Indian Reservation and
home of the Paiute-run Walker River Travel Center, a combination truck stop,
restaurant and Native American gift shop. The Paiutes hold the Pine Nut Festival and
Rodeo every September.
About 55 miles southeast of Hawthorne, the ghost town of Candelaria is easily
accessible via paved roads. Mining has been going on in this region since at least the
Civil War era, but Candelaria didn’t really boom until the 1870s. At the zenith of its
existence, the town boasted 1,500 people, a number of hotels and restaurants and a
newspaper, and was producing $1 million a year in mineral wealth. The mid-1880s
saw a large fire and labor strife in Candelaria, and by 1890 the good times were over.
Today a huge open-pit gold mine operates within sight of the silent remains of a bank
building and other small structures. To reach Candelaria, take US 95 south from
Hawthorne 49 miles south through Mina to a marked, paved road on the right. Take
this road six miles to the town.
To see where it all started, what little remains of the boomtown of Aurora is found
about an hour southwest of Hawthorne, just three miles from the California border.
Gold was struck here in 1860 and while thousands of prospectors poured in, the
states of Nevada and California fought over the claim to Aurora itself. Both states set
up offices and Aurora served as the Esmeralda County, Nevada seat and the Mono
County, California seat until an 1863 survey placed it in the former. Like the tourism-
minded folks in Cowboy Country’s Unionville, Aurora backers report that a guy named
Samuel Clemens tried his hand, unsuccessfully, in the local hills before giving up
prospecting for his first newspaper job. The glory years produced $20 million in gold
in less than a decade. Today, all that’s left are a few buildings and headstones. The
easiest way to Aurora is on paved NV 359 south out of Hawthorne about 29 miles to
Forest Service Road 058, which rumbles north about 10 miles to the outskirts of
Aurora.
Information Sources

For more information on any of the above attractions, contact the Mineral County
Chamber of Commerce, 702-945-5896.

Yerington
From Walker Lake, head north through the village of Schurz, then take ALT US 95
northwest 24 miles to the peaceful town of Yerington. Located smack dab in the
center of Mason Valley, Yerington’s 2,800 or so residents take pride in a quietly
cosmopolitan way of life, where miners, ranchers and farmers work hard all week and
play outdoors all weekend. Founded in the early 1870s as Pizen Switch (reportedly
because a local tavern served a concoction likened to poison, or pizen), Yerington was
incorporated in 1907.
Stop in at Yerington Grammar School No. 9, 22 Highway 208, a 1912 Italian
Renaissance Revival schoolhouse that has been restored and converted into the
Jeanne Dini Performing Arts Center, complete with a modern 210-seat theatre.
The Lyon County Museum, 215 South Main Street, 702-463-6576, certainly lives
up to its claim as one of the best rural museums in the state. The museum is actually
a complex of restored buildings containing rooms decorated with turn-of-the-century
items as well as displays of Nevada’s mining industry, Native Americans, flora and
fauna. The museum is open Thursday through Sunday from 1 PM to 4 PM. April
through October, it opens at 10 AM on Saturdays only. The museum is run by
volunteers, so donations are welcome. The friendly folks at the Mason Valley
Chamber of Commerce, 227 South Main Street, 702-463-2245, are always eager
to help a traveler.
Wovoka
No discussion of Yerington is complete without the story of Wovoka, a member of the
Yerington Paiute tribe who lived in Mason Valley in the late 19th century. Wovoka,
whose Christian name was Jack Wilson, was said to possess messianic powers, such
as the ability to control nature and receive visions. His visions inspired him to work to
foster brotherhood between various Native American tribes, as well as between
Indians and whites. Through a complex system of ceremonies and beliefs that
became known collectively as the Ghost Dance Religion, Wovoka gave hope to many
Native Americans disillusioned by the coming of white settlers, including members of
more than 30 tribes who visited him and spread the word across the US and Canada.
Some historians claim that the Sioux’s fervent belief that the Ghost Dances would
protect them and restore their society to its pre-Columbian glory prompted the 7th
Calvary to massacre 200 women and children at Wounded Knee Creek, South Dakota,
in 1890. Today a plaque honoring Wovoka’s memory rests at the Yerington Indian
Colony. The Spirit of Wovoka Days Pow Wow is held every August at Pat Peeples Field,
702-463-3304.

Two beautifully unique outdoor meccas are found south of Yerington. The West
Walker River has carved a narrow passage through Wilson Canyon, where anglers,
campers and hikers can recreate between the gray volcanic cliffs for hours. Fossils,
geodes and petrified wood dot the local hills, while golden eagles, red-tailed hawks
and prairie falcons can be seen overhead. Fishermen can expect to find rainbows and
brownies, as well as whitefish. To reach Wilson Canyon, take Bridge Street west one
mile to NV 339 south and drive 12 miles to NV 208. Head west into the gorgeous
gorge. Continue east on NV 208 for another six miles through Wellington to Upper
Colony Road and turn right to reach Wellington Deer Range. In colder months,
hundreds of mule deer descend out of the Pine Nut Mountains to feed here in Smith
Valley.
Information Sources

For more information on the above locales, call the BLM, 702-885-6000.

North of Yerington, Mason Valley Wildlife Management Area is a prime spot for
walking and wildlife watching. The 12,000 acres of sagebrush basin and wetlands is
home to waterfowl, birds of prey, small mammals and a large population of Rio
Grande turkeys. The marsh on the west side is open for angling, promising catfish,
bass and bluegill. Camping is restricted to special areas The adjacent Mason Valley
Trout Hatchery is open 8 AM to 5 PM seven days a week. To reach the WMA, go
north on ALT US 95 4½ miles to Miller Lane, turn right and drive three miles to Lux
Lane. Turn left and head two miles to the fish hatchery.
Information Sources

For more information, contact Nevada Division of Wildlife, 702-463-2741.

Overton
Just outside Valley of Fire State Park, Overton has been listed in this chapter instead
of in Las Vegas Territory because it makes such a great starting point for exploring
the eastern side of Pioneer Territory. What better way to begin the journey than with a
look at some of the very first prehistoric Nevadans in the famous Lost City
Museum, 712 South Moapa Valley Boulevard, 702-397-2193, just south of town on
NV 169. The Moapa Valley was once a popular place for the peoples now known as
Anasazi, who were flourishing throughout the Southwest by about 500 AD. They built
adobe structures called pueblos, one of which was unearthed on this site in 1924.
Today the museum features a recreation of the pueblo and some of the finest
artifacts in the entire western US. Admission is $2 for adults and the museum is open
daily, 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except major holidays.
Mesquite
Back on I-15 at the Nevada-Utah border, Mesquite is another gaming-fueled modern
boomtown that has taken off like a rocket. The population has more than quadrupled
since 1980 and casinos have sprung up like yucca blossoms in spring, including the
massive, 1,000-room Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel. Visit the Desert Valley Museum, 31
Mesquite Boulevard, 702-346-5705, for a glimpse into the lives of Virgin Valley’s
original inhabitants and the pioneers who followed them. The museum is open
Monday through Saturday, 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission is free. The Oasis Orvada Gun
Club & Ranch, 800-621-0187, is in the center of a game reserve that also features
a petting zoo, hayrides, skeet shooting and horseback riding. Maybe a day riding the
range will clear your head after you have pondered exactly when the urban sprawl
will stretch all the way across the border to Utah’s Zion and Bryce Canyons, and just
where the people of Mesquite will get their water.
The Running of the Bulls
In 1998, Mesquite was the setting for the first running of the bulls on American soil.
More than 600 lunatics braved two dozen charging cattle and 112° July heat to pay
homage to their counterparts in Pamplona, Spain. There were three minor injuries
and 20 people passed out, while media from as far away as Germany gawked. At
presstime, the promoters were planning to make it an annual event.

Information Sources

For more information, contact the Mesquite Chamber of Commerce, 850 West
Mesquite Blvd, Mesquite, NV 89027, 702-346-2902.

Caliente
About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the
entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park,
254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-
acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and
small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute
words for “place of many waters.”
In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the
Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style,
white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most
exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to
1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, 702-
726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic
sites.
Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this
head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by
naturally occurring minerals in the water. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native
American petroglyphs.
State Parks Near Caliente
Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the
least visited. All of them offer overnight camping. For information on any or all,
contact Nevada Division of State Parks Panaca Region, 702-728-4467.
The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge, located in a long, narrow
valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay
of the canyon walls. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the
gorgeous gorge (see On Foot, below). The park is located just west of US 93 about 12
miles north of Caliente. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature
programs in the campground amphitheater, along with many other events. There are
16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March.
Kershaw-Ryan State Park, three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317,
centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. The steep hills
once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond.
Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the
most lightly trod. The 2,200 acres come complete with deep canyons, pinyon and
juniper forests, a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder
Lake. Boats are not recommended, but anglers are welcome to cast about for
rainbow trout. The park, set at 5,000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border, is
open year-round, but travel is not advised during winter months. From Caliente, go
six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads
to the park. There are 42 campsites, which charge $6 per night during high season
and $3 November through March.
Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground
and boat ramp on the shoreline. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied
wildlife, native plants and unique rock formations. Because the park is set on 930
acres at 5,200 feet, winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving
conditions. From Caliente, head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on
NV 322. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. Roll up Eagle Valley 16
miles to the park. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season
and $3 November through March.
Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1,200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle
Valley Reservoir. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch
House. Winter travelers might also find snow here. From Caliente, head north on US
93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. Go four miles and take the right fork
eight miles to the park. There are 37 campsites, which run $7 during high season and
$3 November through March.
Pioche
Just 25 miles north of Caliente, the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a
boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869. Packed with historic points of interest,
the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy, hazy
afternoon. Check in at Commerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets, 702-962-
5215, for a walking/driving tour map. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar
Courthouse, which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped
around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. The original building costs totaled
$16,000, but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt
officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. All told, they ran up to $1
million.

Legend has it that Pioche was so wild in the 1870s that 72 men died with their boots
on before a single resident died of natural causes. Many of them are buried on Boot
Hill at the end of Comstock Street on the north side of town.

The Extraterrestrial Highway

It’s got to be one of the most bizarre marketing concepts in American tourism history.
Feeding on the modern fascination with UFOs, government cover-ups, men in black
and all things conspiratorial, Nevada has designated NV 375 in Nye County between
Crystal Springs and Warm Springs as The Extraterrestrial Highway. The pavement
passes a few miles east of a portion of the Nellis Air Force Bombing and Gunnery
Range that is the supposed location of the government’s ultra-secret Area 51 where,
true believers theorize, debris from a crashed flying saucer and the bodies of the
alien occupants were brought in the 1950s. The feds admit only that there is an Air
Force facility at Groom Lake, but some of the locals swear that it’s no coincidence
that more UFOs are seen in their backyard than anywhere else in the world, while
gun-toting guards in unmarked 4WD vehicles patrol the desert. The existence of alien
technology here is utterly wild speculation, but it’s widely held that the area has been
the testing ground for aircraft like the U-2 and Stealth bomber for more than 40
years. This much is sure: Former employees of the facility have sued the government,
claiming that they’ve gotten sick from the burning of tons of toxic waste, a thought
scarier than any little green men.

The people of the tiny town of Rachel have taken up the ET cause, selling souvenirs
and literature. If you’re in the neighborhood, stop at the Little A’Le’Inn, 702-729-
2515, (pronounced “alien”) and visit with bartender Roy Nickell. Ask him about the
weekly UFO watches held south of town.

Adventures
 On Foot
Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park
Walkers can easily while away a day at one of the most unique parks in the West,
located about 74 miles northwest of Hawthorne. The name of Berlin-Ichthyosaur
State Park is strange enough to invoke images of a band of angry German punk
rockers, but in reality it’s two superb historical tours in one. Berlin is an impressively
preserved mining camp – held in a state of “arrested decay” – that dates back to an
1895 silver strike. A well-written tour pamphlet is available at the mine
superintendent’s former home that describes the numerous buildings and artifacts,
including the old mill, sleeping quarters, a bar and cemetery. The park is open all
year, but guided tours are held Saturday and Sunday mornings, Memorial Day
through Labor Day only. There are also 14 developed campsites in the park that go
for $6 a night.
The ichthyosaurs are centered two miles away, where you are asked to picture these
bone-dry hills as the once-shallow shoreline of a prehistoric inland sea. Ichthyosaurs,
or fish lizards, were swimming reptiles 50-60 feet long that plied the planet’s waters
beginning some 240 million years ago. The fossilized remains of a large group of
them were found here in 1928 and excavated in 1954. Today visitors can view the
fossil pit and a relief sculpture of a life-size re-creation of the sea behemoth that
makes a great white shark look puny. Interpretive tours are held in March, April, June,
July, August, October and November. To reach the park from Hawthorne, drive 24
miles east on US 95 to NV 361 and head north 28 miles, through Gabbs, to NV 884.
Go east (the pavement soon runs out) another 16 miles to the park. For more
information, call 702-867-3001.
Boundary Peak
Even been master or mistress of all you survey? Get a feeling for it atop Boundary
Peak, the highest point in Nevada at 13,140 feet. Located in the relatively dry, almost
tree-free White Mountains that straddle the California-Nevada border, Boundary Peak
is accessible via an eight-mile round-trip that most fit hikers can handle in eight to 10
hours. To reach the trailhead in the Boundary Peak Wilderness Area from the
intersection of US 6 and US 95 in Coaldale, travel west six miles to NV 773, then go
south nine miles to NV 264 in Fish Lake Valley and continue south almost six miles to
a dirt road leading west. From here go seven miles to a junction, turn right, and roll
on six more miles to the parking area. The hike begins on the road, following a
stream into Trail Canyon. The trail seems faint at times, so always continue up
toward the head of the drainage to a saddle. From here, follow the ridge up steeply
until the terrain opens up to reveal Boundary Peak to the south. Keep to the ridge and
continue heading upward, passing just underneath and east of the peak itself. The
last mile or so requires some boulder hopping, until finally you reach the summit and
its awe-inspiring views of the Sierra Nevadas to the west. Return the way you came.
The Boundary Peak USGS quad map covers this hike.
Arc Dome Wilderness
In the Toiyabe Range north of Tonopah, Arc Dome Wilderness is the largest
designated wilderness in Nevada, where desert bighorn sheep, elk, mountain lion,
deer, beaver and other wildlife roam unimpeded by human interference. There are
numerous access points to the 115,000-acre region from NV 89 on the west side of
the mountains and NV 376 on the east side, including feeder paths for the
granddaddy of all central Nevada hikes, the Toiyabe Crest Trail. The footpath runs
67 miles from the Arc Dome Wilderness north to Kingston Canyon. The southern end
of the trail can be reached via Peavine Canyon Trail or Toms Canyon Trail. Take the
Peavine Campground turnoff (Forest Service Road 020) from NV 376 and head west
and north about nine miles to Peavine campground. Signed Toms Canyon Trail is
accessed by going another 5½ miles north to the end of the road, then half a mile
east. The trail climbs nearly 2,000 feet in 3½ miles, up through the sparse forest of
pinyon pine and juniper and out of Trail Canyon to a pass just to the east of 10,020-
foot Peavine Peak. From here follow the route along intermittent Trail Creek about two
miles to the Reese River and the Toiyabe Crest Trail, a total of 10 miles from the
trailhead. USGS quads for Toms Canyon and Arc Dome are needed for this hike.
Unsigned Peavine Canyon Trail is reached by turning left 5½ miles past the
campground and bouncing along until you’re forced to park somewhere along the
two-mile “road” to the trailhead. Climbing relatively gently up and out of Peavine
Canyon alongside the creek, the trail gains 1,400 feet to a pass west of Peavine Peak.
The trail continues north and drops to the Reese River where it, too, meets the
Toiyabe Crest Trail, nine miles from the trailhead. Consult Toms Canyon, Farrington
Canyon and Bakeoven Creek USGS quads for this hike.
The South Twin River Trail leads up to the Toiyabe Crest Trail from the northeast.
Begin at the intersection of NV 376 and Forest Service Road 080, drive northwest
three miles to the trailhead and follow the trail leaving the road up the hill to the
east. The trail switchbacks to a saddle 50 stories above the river canyon (take a
breath here), continues a steep ascent to another saddle, then drops through the
sagebrush to meet a road coming from the northeast. The path descends further,
offering views of the dramatic canyon on the way down to the South Twin River,
where it crosses the water several times. An old miner’s waterwheel in the canyon
marks a point three miles from the trailhead. About 500 yards beyond the mill, the
trail reaches a junction with the South Fork South Twin River Trail. Continue straight
on what is now labeled the Toiyabe Crest Trail and begin climbing in earnest up the
drainage. About a mile and a half later, notice the intersection with the North Twin
River Trail. Continue straight again another mile to South Twin Pasture, go through
the meadow and climb for about half a mile to find a side trail leading up the top of
11,361-foot Arc Dome. The main trail leads straight ahead, up and up alongside the
South Twin River, reaching a pass at the Reese River after another mile where it
formally joins the Toiyabe Crest Trail. USGS quads for Carvers NW, South Toiyabe
Peak and Arc Dome cover this hike.
For more on the northern sections of the Toiyabe Crest Trail, see the Pony Express
Territory chapter.
Alta Toquima Wilderness
Alta Toquima Wilderness is found in the central part of the Toquima Range, another
narrow, north-south trending formation that is common in the Great Basin. The
38,000 acres are covered with sagebrush, pinyon pine and juniper, and at higher
elevations, limber pine. Pine Creek, one of the most picturesque fisheries in Pioneer
Territory, is lined with aspen and birch. A small group of desert bighorn sheep were
recently released into the wilderness to join other large fauna like elk, mountain lion,
deer and coyote.
The high point, literally and figuratively, is imposing Mount Jeferson, which tops
out at 11,949 feet and is the sixth-highest peak in the state. In the late 1970s
archeologists discovered evidence of the highest Native American village ever found
in North America near the summit of Mount Jefferson. It was used as a hunting camp
5,000 years ago, then occupied again by families sometime around the 14th century.
In fact, the area near the summit has been set aside as the Mount Jeferson
Research Natural Area for the preservation and study of endemic elements.
Legendary conservationist John Muir also rambled through this range.
Even less popular than the Arc Dome Wilderness, Alta Toquima is most easily reached
from the east side of the Toquimas via Route 82 through Monitor Valley. From
Tonopah, take NV 376 north from US 6 and travel 13 miles to the Route 82 fork. It’s
roughly 47 miles to the wilderness turnoff, which marks the way to Pine Creek. After
turning west, head straight one mile and turn right onto Forest Service Road 009,
which leads 2½ miles to Pine Creek Campground, the perfect place to rest up for
an assault on the summit.
The summit trail, 13½ strenuous miles round-trip, leads up the road past an
intersection with Pasco Canyon Trail, gaining altitude quickly toward the ridgeline.
The trail follows – and occasionally splashes across – the streambed of Pine Creek all
the way up, passing through a meadow at the four-mile point. After locating the trail
on the far side of the meadow, you’ll climb another mile to a second meadow. From
here piles of rocks should point the way to an intersection of the South Summit and
North Summit trails. Turn left and head toward the highest point, going west, south,
then sharply northwest to the South Summit, 11,949 feet above sea level. Return
the way you came. USGS topos for Pine Creek and Mount Jefferson are helpful.

Keep in mind that some trails in the Alta Toquima Wilderness are faint due to lack of
maintenance. Hikers should have maps and a compass, and the skills to use them.
Altitude sickness is also a possibility for those accustomed to life in the flatlands, so
pace yourself accordingly and stay hydrated.

Table Mountain Wilderness

Table Mountain Wilderness, the most remote of central Nevada’s wilderness areas,
lies in the central portion of the Monitor Range. The 98,000 acres, set aside in 1989,
are characterized by a unique 12-square-mile plateau and one of the most expansive
aspen forests in Nevada. There are more than 100 miles of trails that wander through
the aspen groves, grasslands filled with wildflowers and limber pine stands. Elk, also
called wapiti to differentiate them from European elk (which are actually moose),
were released here in 1979 and now number over 300. Birds of prey like hawks and
golden eagles patrol the skies over 10,856-foot Monitor Peak.
The most popular gateway is through Barley Creek/Cottonwood Creek. To reach
the trailhead from Tonopah, take US 6 east to NV 376 and go north 13 miles to Route
82 toward Belmont. Head north 26 miles to Belmont, then seven more miles into
Monitor Valley to the Barley Creek turnoff. Veer east and proceed about eight miles to
the trailhead, following the signs for Cottonwood Creek. As you’ll see, this wilderness
entry is relatively popular with horse packers because of the abundance of gently
sloping terrain. This is remote, rugged country, so travel with care, let others know
your itinerary and instruct them to call for help if you don’t check in on time.
From the trailhead, it’s a 15-mile out-and-back hike to the crest of Table Mountain.
The route heads up the clearly defined Barley Creek Trail, climbing up the creek
drainage. The trail first splits at mile three, with the path to Big Meadow traversing a
drainage to the northwest that ascends the West Fork of Barley Creek to the
tableland, with Dry Lake off to the west. On the plateau west of Lower Dry Lake, a
network of low stone walls is thought by archeologists to be a system used for
trapping sage grouse that dates back to 50 BC.
The main trail continues straight ahead, then climbs about half a mile to meet the
signed Cottonwood Creek Trail. To complete a nice loop hike, turn right and walk
three miles east to Cottonwood Creek, then turn right again and trek down the
canyon about four miles, following the creek as it bottoms out and turns west to join
Barley Creek at the original trailhead. Meanwhile, Barley Creek Trail continues up
Barley Creek about a mile and half, crosses the water and begins a steep, half-mile
switchback up and out of the drainage. Once atop the plateau, the route goes
generally north and east to a junction, where a right turn leads up and then back
down to Barley Creek again. From here it’s another mile to the top of Table Mountain.
 For details on this and other hikes in the Arc Dome, Alta Toquima and Table
Mountain wilderness areas, refer to Michael C. White’s masterful book, Nevada
Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking
Guide, Wilderness Press, 1997, and contact the US Forest Service in Tonopah,
702-482-6286.
Cathedral Gorge State Park
In Cathedral Gorge State Park, there is an unforgettable five-mile loop hike through
the gorge that begins at the picnic area and ends at the campground. The two ends
are connected by paved roads and dirt pathways. Start on the trail that heads due
north toward Miller Point, turning left after a quarter-mile and traversing northwest a
little more than two miles to Cathedral Gorge. Enjoy the views, then continue south
two miles back to the campground. The picnic area is about half a mile to the
northeast as the crow flies.
Beaver Dam & Echo Canyon State Parks
In nearby Beaver Dam State Park, the Waterfall Trail is an easy two-mile walk near
the rocky cliffs of Schroeder Lake to a spillway found in a forest of pinyon pine and
juniper. Also close by, in Echo Canyon State Park, the Ash Canyon Trail leaves from
the upper campground and describes a 2½-mile loop, climbing 800 feet to the valley
rim, then descending into Ash Canyon. The trail provides access to the backcountry
on the Nevada-Utah border before heading back to the campground through Echo
Canyon.
Hiking Outfitters
The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as master guides. While
they specialize in hunting and/or fishing, some will lead hikes and photography trips.
They know the Pioneer Territory backcountry better than anyone and can be valuable
sources of information for hikers and backpackers.
Tonopah
Stanley R. Galvin, Jr., Timberline Outfitters, PO Box 168, 89049, 702-482-6422.
Nicholas Perchetti, Timberline Outfitters, PO Box 65, 89049, 702-482-6258.
Round Mountain
William A. Berg, Big Smoky Valley Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 77206, 89045, 702-964-
1207.
James S. Stahl, Mustang Outfitters, PO Box 1149, 89045, 702-964-2145.
Yerington
Marty S. Howard, Mason Valley Guide Service, PO Box 725, 89447, 702-463-4497.
Roy Lerg, Grand Slam Safaris, 27 Smith Gage Road, Smith, 89430, 702-465-2598.
Moapa
Adam R. Lewis, Expeditions Unlimited, PO Box 428, 89025, 702-283-7797.
Lund
Gary Luisetti, PO Box 162, 89317.

 On Wheels
Lone Mountain
A short 4WD excursion or long mountain-bike ride awaits near Tonopah that takes
adventurers to the foot of Lone Mountain, which, at 9,108 feet, is one of the highest
points in Esmeralda County. Begin in Tonopah and head west on US 95 about 12 miles
to an unpaved road running southwest. (If you pass Millers, you’ve gone too far.) The
unpaved track rolls through the sagebrush almost a mile before crossing an old
railroad right-of-way and a set of powerlines. Just beyond the right-of-way, turn left
and head due south, climbing into a small valley. The road turns east briefly, then
continues south to a junction, 8½ miles from US 95. Mike’s Well is straight ahead just
a few minutes, a left turn leads cross country about 12 miles back to Tonopah to
complete an excellent loop, and a right goes alongside a streambed directly toward
Lone Mountain. The latter path right peters out after half a mile, leaving a strenuous,
unmarked hike to the summit.
Big Smoky Valley
A mostly unpaved road trip begins 37 miles north of US 6 in Big Smoky Valley, at the
junction of NV 376 and NV 377. Take the latter seven miles east into the Toquima
Range (keep an eye on the north for views of Mount Jefferson, the sixth-highest peak
in the state) to the ghost-like town of Manhattan. A few dozen people still live in the
area, which was first settled in the 1860s. Manhattan boomed, busted and boomed
again between 1905 and 1909, with dredging continuing into the 1970s. Round
Mountain Gold still operates here. The liveliest spirits in this almost-ghost are found
at the two watering holes, Miner’s Saloon and the Manhattan Bar. The historic
highlight is the wooden Manhattan Catholic Church, which was built in nearby
Belmont in 1874, then moved 15 miles to its present location in 1908. The pavement
runs out east of town and the trip continues, heading northeast 13 miles to the
Belmont National Historic District. The Nye County seat from the 1860s until
1905, Belmont saw most of the 2,000 residents run out shortly after the silver ran out
around 1914. They did leave behind a splendid two-story stone courthouse that cost
$22,000 to construct in 1876. The other ruins are on private property, so keep your
distance. The Belmont Saloon, however, is open for business on weekends. Route
82 heads out of Belmont and south briefly, then north again through Monitor Valley
along the eastern flank of the Toquima Range. Side roads provide access across the
valley to Barley Creek and Table Mountain Wilderness. Continuing north, the road
passes the mouth of Round Meadow Canyon, known for abundant wildlife, and
Pine Creek, where a campground lies at the edge of the Alta Toquima Wilderness.
Just north of Pine Creek, Route 82 hits Forest Service Road 008 (Moores Creek Road).
Take it west over the Toquima Range through picturesque Red Rock Canyon and
Charnock Pass. Exiting the mountains through Dry Canyon, Moores Creek Road runs
across Big Smoky Valley and rejoins NV 376 near the Twin River.
Information Sources

For more information on this and other drives, contact the Greater Smoky Valley
Chamber of Commerce, 702-377-2490. For road conditions, contact the Nevada
Highway Patrol in Tonopah, 702-482-6331.

Chimney Springs
A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended for a trip to Chimney Springs, one of the only
remaining habitats of a pint-sized fish that is as remote as it is unique. Located in a
portion of the Railroad Valley Wildlife Management Area, Chimney Springs can
be reached from the outpost of Lockes off US 6 between Warm Springs and Ely. Take
an unpaved road .2 mile west of Lockes going south. A six-mile drive leads to the
access road on the left. The springs are half a mile away. Three hot pools are found
on two acres here, and careful adventurers can step to the edge of the water to look
for a species of springfish that is endemic only here and in nearby Duckwater Valley.
As tempting as a bath might seem, stay out. Not only is the water very hot, but the
springfish are protected as a threatened species. For more information contact the
BLM, 702-482-7800.
Mt. Wilson National Back Country Byway
In east-central Nevada, the town of Pioche is the starting point for the Mt. Wilson
National Back Country Byway. The drive takes adventurers from the grassy lowlands
to pine-dotted mountain slopes and hillsides covered with wildflowers. From Pioche,
take NV 322 (Eagle Valley Road) east into Eagle Valley.

In the early 1860s, Mormon settlers were sent to this region, then part of Utah
Territory, to establish missions. Many of them were called back in 1866 to protect
them from the lure of silver mining and hostile Native Americans, but those in Eagle
Valley stayed on.

NV 322 turns north and rolls through the historic settlement of Ursine, then up a
narrow canyon to Meadow Valley Campground and Spring Valley State Park.
Continuing north, the byway skirts Ranch Campground and heads into broad
Meadow Valley and Camp Valley, where it follows Camp Valley Creek before
turning left onto County Road 431 headed toward Buckhorn Ranch. Going north and
east on BLM Road 4045, the byway climbs the eastern slopes of the Wilson Creek
Range, past pinyon pine forests and quiet streams. As the scenery becomes more
dramatic, the fauna changes to ponderosa, mountain mahogany and aspen. Spring
brings bright bursts of wildflowers and fall an explosion of leafy color. Wind-sculpted
cliffs of white and pink stone add to the natural pallet. The byway gradually descends
from the mountains and heads northwest to intersect with County Road 441 (Atlanta
Road), where a left turn leads 10 miles back to US 93 and Pony Springs in the heart
of Lake Valley. From here it’s 38 miles south to Pioche to complete the loop. The
byway is generally passable by a high-clearance vehicle, but check on road
conditions before you go. Snow usually closes the loop in winter months.

There are no services along the byway, so take the necessary precautions before
heading out, including notifying someone of your itinerary and carrying extra
supplies.

Information Sources

For more information and a map, contact the BLM, 702-289-4865.

 On Water
Oakridge Landing & Pahtimpi Fins
Suburban anglers can wet a line in two private ponds near Pahrump. At Oakridge
Landing, 5340 South Oakridge Road, 702-727-8276, you pay $3 per pound for what
you catch. You also pay by the pound at Pahtimpi Fins on Hafen Ranch Road, 702-
727-4504, where no license is required and tackle is available for rent.
Esmeralda County
Fishing is fine on the western edge of Esmeralda County near the Nevada-California
border. Streams flowing out of Inyo National Forest lands in the White Mountains are
somewhat remote, but lure the adventurous fly fisherman with the promise of a creel
full of trout. Local services are available in the town of Dyer, reachable from Tonopah
by driving west on US 6/95 41 miles to Coaldale, then continuing west on US 6 six
miles to NV 773. Turn south and go 24 miles to Dyer. The most popular stream in the
area is Chiatovich Creek, found off a dirt road about 11 miles north of Dyer. The
road follows the creek west into the mountains, offering angling in the shadow of
Nevada’s highest mountain, 13,140-foot Boundary Peak. Chiatovich is stocked
annually with rainbow trout. Brookies and cutthroat also abound. Just a mile north of
Dyer, NV 264 passes Leidy Creek, where six miles of fishable waters contain a
natural population of brook, brown, cutthroat and rainbow trout. Less than a mile
southwest of Dyer, Perry Aiken Creek likewise flows unstocked, but the savvy
angler can reel in rainbows from its two miles of fishable water.
Peavine Creek & Twin River
There is also plenty of creek fishing on the east slope of the Toiyabe Range between
Tonopah and Austin. Two of the best spots are Peavine Creek and Twin River. Peavine
is located on Toiyabe National Forest land, reached from Tonopah by driving about 34
miles north on NV 376 into Big Smoky Valley, then taking the signed turnoff to
Peavine campground. Unpaved Forest Service Road 020 leads past the campground
and along the creek into Toms Canyon. There are more than 15 miles of fishable
waters here stocked with brook trout and naturally occurring cutthroat, rainbow and
brown trout. About 70 miles north of Tonopah, Twin River is accessed from the
intersection of NV 376 and unpaved Forest Service Road 080 running west. After the
road peters out, anglers can hoof it to the north and south forks of the river, casting
for brook and rainbow trout while hiking up-canyon into the Arc Dome Wilderness. For
more information on fishing in the White Mountains or Toiyabe Range, contact the US
Forest Service in Tonopah, 702-482-6286.
Walker Lake
Only five miles north of Hawthorne, huge Walker Lake is yet another leftover from the
ancient inland sea called Lake Lahontan that once covered most of northwestern
Nevada. The lake is named for Joe Walker, a pathfinder and scout who led Captain
John C. Fremont’s famous trek into the Great Basin in the 1840s. Covering 37,000
acres, Walker Lake is shared among the Walker River Paiutes (whose reservation
covers the northern end), the Bureau of Land Management and the US Army.
Hundreds of thousands of Lahontan cutthroat trout are released into Walker Lake
each spring, joining the tui chub and rare Tahoe sucker and attracting anglers from
across Nevada and California. The lake is also a twice-annual migratory stop for
hundreds of common loons. They are celebrated during the April Loon Festival, when
the Nevada Division of Wildlife leads group tours.
Beginning at the southern end of the lake, a boat ramp and primitive camping are
found at Old Ski Beach (9.7 miles north of Hawthorne), while Walker Lake State
Recreation Area (12.3 miles) is a day-use area with a sandy beach, picnic facilities
and boat ramp. Seventeen free campsites and a boat ramp are found at
Sportsmen’s Beach (15 miles), with more primitive campsites and ramps available
at Tamarack Beach (18.2 miles) and Twenty Mile Beach (19.4 miles). Fishing
derbies are held in February, April, October and November. Walker Lake also
welcomes water skiers and wind surfers.
The very future of Walker Lake is threatened, however, by the diversion of Walker
River water for farming and commercial use, exacerbated by a high evaporation rate
and occasional droughts. In fact, the lake’s level has dropped 130 feet since 1880.

The Walker Lake Working Group has been formed to respond to the lake’s silent SOS
and is developing a long-term plan to protect the water and its inhabitants without
jeopardizing upstream interests. For more information or to become a member ($20
donation), write the group at PO Box 867, Hawthorne, NV 89415.

Lake Mead
A boat is the best way to spot the creatures at the northern tip of Lake Mead, where
the Muddy and Virgin rivers flow into the lake from the north through narrow, high-
walled canyons that attract many species of Nevada fauna. The nearest put-in is at
full-service Overton Beach Marina, about 13 miles south of the confluence. Desert
bighorn sheep are known to traverse the cliffsides, while Canada geese, both brown
and white pelicans and even flamingos can be spotted with binoculars. Contact Lake
Mead National Recreation Area, 702-394-4040, about conditions and weather
reports before heading out. Lake Mead can be treacherous when the wind kicks up
and careless boaters are occasionally swamped.
Upper Pahranagat Lake
Off US 93 on the eastern side of Pioneer Territory, Upper Pahranagat Lake in the
National Wildlife Refuge provides limited fishing on less than 700 of its 5,000 acres.
Largemouth bass and white crappie are the catches of the day here. Boaters are
welcome, but motors are prohibited. Contact the refuge office, 702-725-3417, for
details. North of Pahranagat off US 93 near Caliente and Pioche, popular Echo
Canyon State Park offers a 65-acre man-made lake that supports a healthy supply
of rainbows, largemouth bass and white crappie. Spring Valley State Park is
another oft-fished spot, with its 65-acre reservoir attracting plenty of fisherman from
southern Nevada. Brown trout, which are stocked in spring and fall, are the main
attraction here.
Watersports Outfitters
The following are licensed by the Nevada Division of Wildlife as game fish master
guides.
Kathleen L. Howe, Classic Anglers, 633 Schley Street, Bishop, CA, 93514, 760-
872-2533
Yerington
Marty S. Howard, Mason Valley Guide Service, PO Box 725, 89447, 702-463-4497
Round Mountain
William A. Berg, Big Smoky Valley Outfitters, HCR 60, Box 77206, 89045, 702-964-
1207.
James S. Stahl, Mustang Outfitters, PO Box 1149, 89045, 702-964-2145.
Tonopah
Stanley R. Galvin, Jr., Timberline Outfitters, PO Box 168, 89049, 702-482-6422.
Nicholas Perchetti, Timberline Outfitters, PO Box 65, 89049, 702-482-6258.

 On Horseback
In Pahrump, Pioneer Territory Wagon Tours, 702-372-1717, is a new company
started by local Ron Matheny, who takes visitors on covered wagon trips to Ash
Meadows National Wildlife Refuge. The family-style outings, which include an
authentic trailside barbecue, provide lessons in natural history and Native American
culture.
Located on Rainbow Canyon Road in Caliente, the Longhorn Cattle Company
Guest Ranch, 702-889-8844, invites city slickers and seasoned riders alike to take
part in roundups and enjoy a home, home on the range, at least temporarily. Rates
start at $100 and go up from there. Lonhorn Cattle Company also has an office in Las
Vegas at 953 East Sahara Boulevard, Suite 9B, 89104.

Where to Stay & Eat

 Accommodations
Pahrump
There are nearly 100 rooms in Pahrump, but you’d be surprised how fast they can fill
up in one of the fastest-growing towns in the West. Advance reservations are highly
suggested. The big enchilada is Saddle West, 1220 South Highway 160, 800-
GEDDY-UP, $-$$. With 110 rooms, including four deluxe suites that go for only $70 a
night Sunday through Thursday, Saddle West is a great escape from the Mojave.
There is also a 24-hour restaurant, casino and lounge, a pool and an outdoor Jacuzzi.
The 46-room Pahrump Station Days Inn, Highway 160 at Loop Road, 702-727-
5100, $-$$, offers all the familiar trappings of a chain motel, along with a pool and
honeymoon room. Apartments with refrigerator and microwave go for as little as $59
during the off-season. Budget-minded travelers might try the Charlotta Inn Motel,
1201 South Highway 160, 702-727-5445, $. There are some surprises here usually
found in pricier digs, including a heated pool, cable TV and even king rooms with
fridge and microwave.
Amargosa Valley
This waystation only 85 miles from Las Vegas offers a full-service hotel-casino, the
Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line, 800-508-9493, $-$$.
There are 60 rooms, including 14 king minisuites with fireplace and patio. The casino
boats live blackjack and a steak house, while the inn offers laundry services, a
convenience store, hair salon, non-smoking rooms and a pool. In short, it’s a mighty
fine place to rejuvenate after a day in the desert. Even RV campers are welcome to
hook up here.
Beatty
Just returned from Death Valley? Resurrect thyself at the Burro Inn on US 95 South,
702-553-2225, $-$$. The Burro boasts 62 motel-style rooms, a casino with live 21, a
restaurant, lounge, horseshoe pits and RV parking with full hookups. The Exchange
Club Motel, 604 Main Street, 702-553-2333, $-$$, is a two-story job with 44 rooms
that were redone in 1993, a casino and 24-hour coffee shop. The Stagecoach on US
95 North, 800-4-BIG-WIN, $-$$, has 32 rooms, along with the ubiquitous casino
games and standard restaurant. A lounge with live entertainment, a kids’ play area
and rooms with kitchenettes are nice, but the main draw is the pool when the
thermometer starts bubbling. The other two motels are the El Portal, 420 West Main
Street, 702-553-2912, $-$$, which has 30 rooms and a pool, and the 54-room
Phoenix Inn, US 95 at First Street, 702-553-2250, $-$$.
Goldfield
The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon, 9000 North 5th Avenue, 702-485-3431, $, was built
in 1905, when Goldfield was one of the most happenin’ addresses in the entire West.
Check out the old “cribs” out back where the ladies of the evening plied their trade.
Don’t worry, though, the two rooms are quite a lot nicer.
Tonopah
By far the largest settlement in western Pioneer Territory, Tonopah has more than 600
rooms. None are finer than those at the Mizpah Hotel, 100 North Main Street, 702-
482-6202, $. Dating back to 1908, the Mizpah once employed boxing legend Jack
Dempsey and installed the first Otis elevator in the West. All 45 rooms retain the
charm of yesterday, at very reasonable rates. The Mizpah also has a small casino and
a restaurant and bar with live entertainment.
If you’re into chains, the Best Western Hi-Desert Inn, 323 Main Street, 702-482-
3511, $$, comes highly rated. It has 94 rooms, a pool and whirlpool open May
through September, workout equipment, RV parking and free continental breakfast.
Even dogs are welcome. The Jim Butler Motel, 100 South Main Street, 702-482-
3577, $, is named for the rancher who found gold here in 1900 and started the rush
to Tonopah. The winner of something called the 1990 US Senate Productivity &
Quality Award, the Butler has 25 rooms, free movies and is close to the convention
center.
Some of the larger, better-lit establishments include the Sundowner Motel, 700
Main Street, 702-482-6224, $, which has 93 rooms, a restaurant and bar, VCR and
tape rentals and a rec room; the 85-room Silver Queen Motel, 255 Main Street,
702-482-6291, $, with a restaurant, lounge, pool and free in-room coffee; and the
sprawling Station House, 1100 Main Street, 702-482-9777, $-$$. This place has it
all: 75 rooms, RV hookups, a casino, restaurants, lounge with entertainment, arcade
and laundry.
There are also inexpensive motel rooms at the Golden Hills Motel, 826 Main Street,
702-482-6238, $, with 40 rooms, a restaurant and free coffee, and the 33-room
Clown Motel, 521 North Main Street, 702-482-5920, $, which offers the added
bonus of being next to the historic cemetery.
Hawthorne
El Capitan Motor Lodge, 540 F Street, 702-945-3321, $, has been catering to
travelers since 1943. There are 103 rooms, including four two-bedroom units, a
casino, two restaurants, a heated pool and a small play area. Location, location,
location is the beauty of Clifside House Lakeside Resort, 1 Cliff House Road,
702-945-2444, $. Adjacent to Walker Lake, the 12 rooms are just steps from the
water and are sometimes rented to groups that want their own private beach. The
Best Western Desert Lodge, 1402 5th Street, 702-945-2660, $$, has 39 rooms, a
Jacuzzi and a pool. Just a block away, the 37-room Sand N Sage Lodge, 1301 5th
Street, 702-945-3352, $, also has a pool. The handful of generic motels includes the
seven-room Anchor, 965 Sierra Highway, 702-945-2573, $, the Hawthorne, 720
Sierra Highway, 702-945-2544, $, which has 14 rooms, the 23-room Holiday
Lodge, on the corner of 5th and J streets, 702-945-3316, $, and the Rocket, 694
Sierra Highway, 702-945-2143, $, which has 14 rooms.
Yerington
The glitziest place in town is Casino West, 11 North Main Street, 702-463-2481, $-
$$. Run by the Masini family, Casino West has 79 rooms adjacent to the gaming hall,
a pair of family-style restaurants, a lounge, pool and movie theater. To find a quieter
environment, try either of two B&Bs: the one-room Arbor House B&B, 39 North
Center Street, 702-463-2991, $$, or the Robric Ranch B&B on Osborne Lane,
702-463-2998, $-$$, which has two non-smoking rooms.
More rustic lodgings can be found near Smith, 17 miles southwest of Yerington, at
Walker River Resort on Hudson Way, 702-465-2573, $$-$$$. The resort has five
cabins that run from $64 to $105 and a huge RV park with 150 hookups. Close by is
Smith Valley Bed & Breakfast, 702-465-2341, $$, and its three nicely appointed
bedrooms. Just west of Smith in Wellington, the historic Hoye Mansion B&B, 2827
Highway 208, 702-465-2959, $$, has five rooms.
Mesquite
How popular is this bustling border town? There are 1.4 hotel rooms for every one of
its 1,900 or so residents. The local behemoth is Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel, 1137
Mesquite Boulevard, 800-621-0187, $-$$, which at last count had 1,103 rooms and
all the trappings of a Vegas gaming palace, including dozens of suites, various
restaurants, live entertainment, pool and spa, a golf course, tennis courts, bowling
alley, family fun center and an airport shuttle. Another giant is the 724-room Virgin
River Hotel, 915 Mesquite Boulevard, 800-346-7721, $-$$, with a 24-hour casino,
restaurants, bars, entertainment, a pool, Jacuzzi, movie theater and kids’ play area.
Plans call for 300 more rooms and a golf course. The Casa Blanca, 950 Mesquite
Boulevard, 800-896-4567, $$-$$$, formerly Players Island, has 700 rooms, with
blueprints for hundreds more, a 925-seat showroom, golf course, pool, Jacuzzi, airport
shuttle, RV park and four bungalows. Holiday Inn has gotten in on the action at the
Rancho Mesquite, 301 Mesa Boulevard, 800-346-4611, $$-$$$, a 215-room hotel-
casino with restaurants, pool, Jacuzzi, fitness center and live music. The quieter
Budget Inn & Suites, 390 North Sandhill Road, 702-346-7444, $-$$$, has 67
rooms, a pool and a hot tub.
Caliente
If you’re staying here, might as well make an adventure of it and try the Caliente
Hot Springs Motel on US 93 on the north end of town, 702-726-3777, $-$$. Each
of the 16 rooms includes access to the tubs that are fed by 105° spring water. The
baths are also available to non-guests for a small fee. The two other inns in town are
the seven-room Rainbow Canyon Motel, 884 A Street, 702-726-3291, $, and the
unfortunately named Shady Motel, 450 Front Street, 702-726-3106, $, which has
22 rooms.
Pioche
If the nearby campgrounds are full, there’s not much to choose from in Pioche. Your
best bets are the Hutchings Motel on US 93, 702-962-5404, $-$$, which has five
rooms, and the nine-room Motel Pioche, 100 LaCour Street, 702-962-5551, $.
Rachel
In the shadow of Area 51, Little A’Le’Inn on NV 375, 702-729-2515, $, has 13
rooms, a restaurant and bar, and welcomes pets. Flying saucer parking is out back.
 Restaurants
Pahrump
A Chinese restaurant may seem out of place in the Mojave Desert, but there was a
time when one out of 16 Nevadans was Chinese. Besides, Rose Garden, on NV 160
in Valley View Plaza, 702-727-6440, has great lunch specials between 11 AM and
3 PM. It’s open until 9 PM Sunday through Thursday and until 9:30 PM Friday and
Saturday.
No fast food, just good food quickly at Terrible’s Town Casino on NV 160 at NV 372,
702-751-7777. The small “food court” features a Blimpie sandwich counter, a
miniature Pizza Hut and a Baskin-Robbins 31 Flavors to top it all off. A large Smith’s
Food & Drug Center, 601 South Highway 160, 702-727-2404, is complete with a
full-service bakery and deli, pharmacy and bank. At Saddle West Casino, the Silver
Spur, 1220 South Highway 160, 702-727-0909, is open 24 hours a day, and the
buffet starts at $2.99. Stagestop Casino, 100 West Stagecoach Road, 702-727-
7300, and Mountain View Casino & Bowl on Calvada Boulevard, 702-727-7777,
also have full-service restaurants.
Amargosa Valley
The Longstreet Inn on NV 373 near the California state line, 800-508-9493, has a
great $7.95 Sunday brunch in the Longstreet Café. The Nebraska Steakhouse at
the Inn serves them up hot and sizzling.
Beatty
Start the day at Beatty Donut Emporium & Bread Factory on US 95 at Main
Street, 702-553-2111, a perfect spot to stock up on starch before heading off into
the parched desert. Ask for the Beatty Belgian Waffle and a bunny cookie. The DE&BF
is open 6 AM to 3 PM Tuesday through Saturday. Choice is the catch of the day at the
Stagecoach Hotel on US 95 North, 800-4-BIG-WIN, where Alexander’s Steak
House and Rita’s Café serve up a wide variety of American favorites. The
Exchange Club, 702-553-2368, and Burro Inn, 702-553-2225, also have family-
style restaurants.
Tonopah
The rather predictable fare at the hotel-casinos is the staple of Tonopah visitors. The
living antique that is the Mizpah Hotel, 100 North Main Street, 702-482-6202,
features the pricey Jack Dempsey Steakhouse and a coffee shop. The Station
House, 1100 Main Street, 702-482-9777, also has a 24-hour café. If you’re in the
mood for Mexican, you could do worse than El Marques, 348 North Main Street,
702-482-3885, open until 9 PM.
Hawthorne
The blue and white El Capitan, 540 F Street, 702-945-3321, features both a 24-
hour coffee shop serving such choice items as the king-cut prime rib, and an all-you-
can-eat buffet and salad bar. Have dinner and watch waterfowl from the windows of
the Clif House at Walker Lake, 702-945-5253. Traditional American and
Continental fare, including excellent seafood, fill the menu. For quick bites of
harmless road-trip treats, try Jack’s Family Restaurant, 1291 5th Street, 702-945-
2994, Maggies, 785 E Street, 702-945-3908, or the Jolly Kone Drive-In, 501 I
Street, 702-945-3320. If you lean toward the Asian persuasion, try Happy Buddha,
570 E Street, 702-945-2727, or Wong’s Chinese Fast Food, 923 5th Street, 702-
945-1700.
Yerington
Casino West, 11 North Main Street, 702-463-2481, is the home of two restaurants.
The Ranch House Cofee Shop features nightly buffets and a 20-ounce T-bone
steak, while the new Pizza Factory’s full Italian menu and picnic-style dining is great
for a casual lunch or dinner. The town’s other casino, Dini’s Luck Club, 45 North
Main Street, 702-463-2868, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, along with the usual
buffet. The Mason Valley Country Club, 111 Highway 208, 702-462-3300, and the
Stage Stop Restaurant, 11 North ALT 95, 702-463-3707, are both known as the
finer dining rooms in the area. Lighter fare can be found at the Country Sunflower,
Willhoyt Lane and ALT US 95, 702-463-2054, which serves breakfast, lunch and
dinner in a family atmosphere.
Mesquite
It’s hard to argue with the vast quantities of food laid out by the big hotels here –
cheap, satisfying and never-ending. Si Redd’s Oasis Hotel, 1137 Mesquite
Boulevard, 800-621-0187, has a 24-hour coffee shop, buffet and fine dining at
Redd’s Steakhouse. The Casa Blanca, 950 Mesquite Boulevard, 800-896-4567,
offers a similar setup: elegant surroundings at Katherine’s, a “live-action” buffet
and you’ve gotta love a coffee shop called the Blue Fez. The Virgin River Hotel,
915 Mesquite Boulevard, 800-346-7721, also has a 24-hour café and all-you-can-eat
buffet.
Caliente
The coffee shop at the Knotty Pine Casino on Front Street, 702-726-3194, serves
typical-but-filling Western fare and stays open as long as there are diners to serve.
Two blocks up, Carl’s Burgers, 702-726-3138, is like a blast from the 50s. It’s a
perfect spot for lunch.
 Camping
Convenient tent camping can be found in Pahrump at Days End Tush Rest, 2281
West Scales Way, 702-727-2314. This private campground operated by Ron and
Sandy Daviau has spots with fire rings and picnic tables. There’s even an indoor
workout facility. Small RVs are welcome (there are no hookups) and the coffee is hot
and free.
There are a handful of remote US Forest Service campgrounds in this territory. Five of
them are in the Toiyabe Range, in and around Arc Dome Wilderness. Peavine
Campground is set at 6,700 feet on the southern end of the wilderness and is a
perfect launching pad for hiking the Toiyabe Crest National Recreation Trail. It has 11
units suited for tents or trailers. To reach the campground from Tonopah, drive about
34 miles north on NV 376 to the signed turnoff on the left, then head about nine
miles up gravel Forest Service Road 020. There is excellent fishing on Peavine Creek.
Primitive campsites are located 5½ miles north of Peavine campground at the end of
the road near the Peavine and Toms Canyon trailheads.
On the west side of the Toiyabes off State Route 89, unimproved Cow Canyon
Campground is set at 8,000 feet inside the wilderness boundary. There is easy
access to fishing in Big Sawmill Creek and a footpath that leads to the Toiyabe Crest
Trail and the summit of Arc Dome. The drive to the campground is arduous and
requires a 4WD vehicle, but it might be worth it for those seeking solitude among the
aspens. From Tonopah, go west on US 6/95 five miles to State Route 89 (Gabbs
Poleline Road) and turn right. Head about 33 miles to Forest Service Road 018 and
turn right, then continue north about 25 miles across the Toiyabe National Forest
Boundary and past Farrington Ranch to Forest Service Road 121 leading to the
campground.
The only developed campground in Alta Toquima Wilderness, Pine Creek
Campground is located off State Route 82 at the foot of Mount Jefferson. There are
11 sites set at 6,700 feet. For directions, see On Foot, above.
Located in Table Mountain Wilderness, Cottonwood/Barley Creek Campground
has 10 sites for tents set at 7,800 feet in the Monitor Range. To reach the
campground from Tonopah, take NV 376 north 13 miles to State Route 82 and
continue north 27 miles to Belmont. From here, the unpaved road goes south briefly,
then north five miles to Forest Service Road 005, running east six miles to Barley
Creek Ranch at the wilderness boundary. The campground is another three miles
away. Mosquito Creek Campground is in the northwest corner of the wilderness.
There are a number of unimproved campsites set at the 7,100-foot level, providing
access to fishing and hiking. To reach the campground from Tonopah, take NV 376
north 13 miles to the junction with State Route 82 and continue northeast, through
Belmont, for a total of 45½ miles to the signed junction for Mosquito Creek. Forest
Service Road 096 leads eastward eight miles to the campsites. For more information
and maps on camping in the Toiyabe, Alta Toquima or Monitor mountains, contact the
US Forest Service in Tonopah, 702-482-6286.
Near Walker Lake State Recreation Area north of Hawthorne, privately owned Desert
Lake Campground, 702-945-3373, offers sites for $11 per night. A primitive public
campground at Sportsmen’s Beach has 20 sites for tenters or RV campers. There is
no running water and no fee. For information, contact the BLM, 702-687-6100.

Suggested Reading
This reading list is not meant to be all-inclusive. Rather these are suggestions for
those interested in obtaining more information and inspiration when planning a trip to
Nevada. They are listed in alphabetical order.
AAA California/Nevada CampBook, American Automobile Association.
AAA California/Nevada TourBook, American Automobile Association.
The Backyard Traveler: 54 Outings in Northern Nevada by Richard Moreno, Childrens
Museum of Northern Nevada, 1993.
The Backyard Traveler Returns: 62 Outings in Southern, Eastern and Historical
Nevada by Richard Moreno, 1993.
Basin and Range by John McPhee, Noonday Press, 1990.
Dave Stanley’s No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing in Nevada by Dave Stanley, David
Banks and Lucinda Handley, David Communications, 1997.
The Hiker’s Guide to Nevada by Bruce Grubbs, Falcon Press Publishing, 1994.
Hiking Great Basin National Park by Bruce Grubbs, Falcon Press Publishing, 1998.
Literary Las Vegas: The Best Writing About America’s Most Fabulous City by Mike
Tronnes (editor) and Nick Tosches, Henry Holt and Company, 1995.
Nevada: The Magazine of the Real West, published by the State of Nevada.
Nevada Angler’s Guide by Richard Dickerson, Frank Amato Publications, 1997.
Nevada Atlas & Gazetteer, DeLorme, 1996.
Nevada Handbook by Deke Castleman, Moon Publishing, 1995.
Nevada Mountain Ranges by George Wuerthner, American & Geographic World
Publishing, 1992.
Nevada Off the Beaten Path by Mary Buckingham Maturi and Richard J. Maturi, The
Globe Pequot Press, 1997.
The Nevada Trivia Book by Richard Moreno, Gem Guides Book Company, 1995.
Nevada Wilderness Areas and Great Basin National Park: A Hiking and Backpacking
Guide by Michael C. White, Wilderness Press, 1997.
Nevada Wildlife Viewing Guide by Jeanne L. Clark, Falcon Press Publishing, 1993.
Roughing It by Mark Twain.
Tales of Tahoe: Lake Tahoe History, Legend and Description by David J. Stolley, Jr.,
Mojave Books, 1969.
Touring California & Nevada Hot Springs by Matt C. Bischoff, Falcon Press Publishing,
1997.
Western Nevada Jeep Trails by Roger Mitchell, La Siesta Press, 1993.