A great little country

Estonia

www.visitestonia.com

TRAVEL GUIDE

Includes 3 route maps

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eople from larger countries may find it odd that there are in fact no distant places in Estonia one can travel from one end of the country to another in just four or five hours without having to rush. And yet Estonia is larger on the inside than on the outside, the secret well known and shared by the locals. It is quite unusual to find such a variety in landscapes, flora, seasons, weather and moods within only a couple of dozens of kilometres. At the same time the traveller in Estonia has plenty of space: on the territory with a size comparable to that of Denmark or Holland there are four and twelve times less inhabitants here, respectively. verything that you see while travelling around in Estonia is inseparable from our history. Estonians belong to the oldest peoples in Europe and were already living on the coasts of the Baltic Sea at the time when the first pyramids were erected in Egypt. Since the 13th century we have been invaded and ruled by Germans, Danes, Swedes, Poles and Russians, but each one of them have left behind also something good. The Republic of Estonia was declared on 24 February, 1918, and for a couple of decades the people felt pride in their home country, work, children and achievements. The vile and destructive occupation by the Soviet Union which lasted half a century interrupted the natural development of many spheres of life in Estonia, which until then had been keeping up well with its northern neighbour Finland. In 1991 Estonians regained their independence in the course of the Singing Revolution and returned to their rightful place in Europe and the world.

ost tourists who visit Estonia arrive first in Tallinn. Since this medieval Hanseatic town, the capital and the business and cultural centre of Estonia deserves a guidebook of its own (of which there are plenty available), we will cover only the most important facts about Tallinn in this publication. First and foremost we will focus on interesting places, activities, food and culture in other parts of Estonia.

orth Estonia this is a mixture of colourful history and the dynamic present time, contrasts in lifestyles and nature, a journey from trendy Tallinn to the quiet of bogs and romantic fishing villages, an ascent from the primeval forest to the height of a limestone cliff and a view over the sea. South Estonia is unique and mysterious: the rich nature, lakes and hills of the heartland nourish the character of the hard-working country people, the nostalgic atmosphere of small towns and the academic-bohemian ambience of the university town Tartu. West Estonia is characterised by vast expanses of land, peace of mind and fresh sea air, bays abounding in birds, juniper fields, pine trees and people toughened by the sea breeze on the coast.

fter having taken the chance to travel in the world after the regaining of independence, more and more Estonians spend their summer holidays at home. What could serve as a better recommendation to a visitor? We wish that you will enjoy yourselves here are and leave Estonia richer with new impressions and knowledge, and a warm feeling your hearts. Vano Allsalu
Your travel guide

NORTH ESTONIA

Estonia
Tallinn a Hanseatic town

A great little country

T
allinn 1 , the oldest capital in Northern Europe, was put on the map for the first time by Arabian geographer al-Idrisi in 1154. Tallinns Old Town is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List as one of the best-preserved medieval town centres in Europe. It boasts a town wall with 26 defence towers, the Dominican St. Catherines Monastery founded in 1246, the 600-year-old Gothic Town Hall, the worlds oldest functioning pharmacy on the Town Hall Square and the 159 metres high Oleviste Church which was the highest structure in the world in the 16th century. Toompea Hill and the towers of Oleviste Church and the Town Hall offer breathtaking views over the Old Town. Toompea Castle, built in the 13th and 14th centuries, is the seat of the nations parliament and there flies Estonias first flag on top of Tall Hermanns Tower.

allinn is a dynamic city on the move. The medieval Old Town is not a museum, but a vibrant, living organism be-

tween the harbour and the new business district. The city centre with its cosy cafs, boutiques and art galleries beckons to take a stroll and explore the streets, to have a drink and a bite to eat, to party, and why not to shop. There is also the Estonian Open Air Museum which gives a glimpse of rural life, the Song Festival Grounds, Kadriorg Park and Castle, the Pirita Convent, romantic Nmme, a garden town built under the pine trees in the 1930s, and the distinc-

tive wooden house districts of Kalamaja and Lillekla.

info:
Tallinn Tourist Information Centre +372 645 7777 e-mail turismiinfo@tallinnlv.ee Tourist information centre in Tallinn port (Terminal A) +372 631 8321 e-mail port.tallinn@visitestonia.com

WWW:

www.tourism.tallinn.ee | www.tallinn.ee/eng

Lahemaa and Krvemaa

hen you drive from Tallinn towards Narva you will pass SahaLoo near Lake Maardu where the land has been cultivated for over 3,000 years. In Jelhtme 2 there is the Rebala Heritage Protection Area, by the museum of which lies the oldest known stone burial grounds in Estonia dating back to the 8th-7th centuries BC. Nearby are the Kostivere karst area and Jgala Falls 3 , largest in Estonia, which offer impressive sights during high water in spring and autumn. Kiiu Tower 4 , a vassal stronghold from the 16th century, houses a cafeteria and has given its name to a well-known Estonian liqueur.

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stonias largest national park, Lahe maa, is famous for its rich nature, cultural heritage and beautiful sights. The main attractions of Lahemaa are sandy beaches, enormous erratic boulders, mossy pine forests, over 200 species of birds and almost 900 different plants. The ancient Altja fishermens village 5 offers a glimpse into the life of coastal people in olden times and its

popular Lamba-Ada Beach Bar in Vergi 9 and the stylish restaurant in Sagadi Manor House.


Altja fishing village

anors are undoubtedly one of the main attractions of Lahemaa. The baroque Sagadi Manor 10 is home to a forestry museum and hosts an annual international workshop on wood sculpting. Palmse Manor 11 , with a swan pond and a palm house, houses the visitors centre of Lahemaa National Park, a museum introducing the life in the manor and a collection of antique cars. Beautiful views open on Vihula Manor 12 situated on the shore of a picturesque lake, and on Kolga Manor 13 which was founded when Estonia was invaded by the Danes in the 13th century. Those interested in culture should visit the art museum in

rock and dip the feet in the sea. The sea breeze, the sounds of screeching seagulls and a distant fishing boat are like a balm for any weary soul tired of hectic city life. Silence and fresh air can be enjoyed in marshlands. For example, the Viru bog 15 which is surrounded by a pine forest and has a boardwalk and a watchtower is situated only 1 km from the TallinnNarva highway.

genuine romantic aura is a real treat for an appreciative traveller. Near Altja you can take a walk along the wonderfully refreshing Oandu forest trail 6 which with its numerous information boards also offers an educational experience. Among other things, you will find traces of elk, bear and wild boar, springs with crystalclear water, windfalls, as well as dunes formed by the ancient sea: thousands of years ago waves of the Baltic Sea washed the shores here.

he maritime museum in Ksmu captains village 7 , where there was a maritime school from 1884 to 1931, has exhibits on seafaring, fish-

Kakerdaja Bog

Palmse Manor

Jgala Falls

ing and smuggling. In the 1920s, the years of prohibition in Finland, the seamen from the North Estonian coastal villages helped to quench their kinsmens thirst by taking spirits across the bay in their boats under the cover of the night. Today drink and food are offered at the colourful Altja Tavern 5 , the 18th century rustic Viitna Tavern 8 , the

Viinistu 14 that each summer hosts an international interdisciplinary art festival. There are around one hundred giant boulders in Estonia that have a perimeter of at least 25 metres and onetenth of them are found on the nearby Prispea Peninsula.

rvemaa is characterised by forests, bogs, mysterious forest lakes and moors. North Krvemaa Landscape Protection Area with its centre in Aeg viidu 16 , which includes a former Soviet military polygon, and Krvemaa Landscape Protection Area with its centre in Simisalu 17 make sure that the natural landscapes remain pristine. Krvemaa is a habitat for various protected bird species including the golden eagle, the less-

traveller can also just stop the car and take a walk in the woods or on the seashore, sit down on a sun-warmed

NORTH ESTONIA

er spotted eagle and the black stork, and a number of fascinating plants. n northern Krvemaa one can hike along the nature study route of Pauk jrve, Jussi and Uuejrve. There are watchtowers on the Paukjrve glacial moraine and Venemgi. One of the most remarkable examples of untouched nature is the two-level Kakerdaja bog 18 in Albu in the southern part of Krvemaa. Valgehobusemgi 19 Hill nearby has hiking and ski trails and a watchtower. rvemaa also offers cultural experiences. The museum of A. H. Tamm saare, the great Estonian writer 20 , offers a look at farm life in the past, hosts theatrical performances in the summer, and is a starting point for nature hikes in Krvemaa. Jneda Manor 21 houses a unique musical observatory of the c omposer Urmas Sisask. Popular eat ing and partying places in Jneda are Musta Tku Tall and the seafood restaurant Suurvanker which is built on a huge horse carriage. In summertime tourists can also visit Albu Manor House 22 and admire its colourful wall paintings; nearby in Albu Toiduait you can have a bite to eat.
info:
Visitors Centre of Lahemaa National Park +372 329 5555 e-mail info@lahemaa.ee

bers, and you can try your hand at archery. Shenken berg Tavern serves dishes made from recipes hundreds of years old.

he oldest traces of human inhabitation in Estonia, dating back more than 10,000 years are found near Kunda 24 . The Kunda culture that existed from 8,000 to 4,000 years BC was based on hunting and fishing. Of domestic animals only the dog was known in those distant times, predating ancient Sumerian or Egyptian cultures. When in Kunda, the Cement Museum is worth a visit: cement manufacturing started here in 1870 and the first hydropower plant in

ndoubtedly the biggest attraction in the area is the Ontika coastal limestone cliff 31 that runs for more than 20 km between Saka and Toila. At its highest the cliff is 56 metres and presents breathtaking views of the Gulf of Finland. Valaste 32 boasts the highest waterfall in Estonia. One can admire it on a special viewing platform which also offers an excellent view on the 470 to 570 million-year-old amazing layers of rock. Limestone is Estonias national stone and the Ontika coastal limestone cliff is a candidate for inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

ortheast Estonia is a region full of contrasts where beautiful landscapes are side by side with industrial locations such as the huge ashmounds

WWW:

www.lahemaa.ee | www.l-virumv.ee

The coastal limestone cliff and Virumaa

Narva

akvere 23 got its town rights in 1302, while the original wooden stronghold Tarvanp was first described already in 1226 by the chronicler Latvian Henrik. Now there is a museum and an open air stage in the romantic ruins of the castle of the Teutonic knights, and next to it a recreational area with a windmill and a statue of aurochs, the symbol of Rakvere. The museum features exhibitions, tours to medieval horror and torture chamRakvere

the Baltics was built in 1893. Nearby the ruins of Toolse Order Castle 25 stand on the coast.

halkivi 26 near Kunda on the Letipea peninsula is the largest boulder in the Northern European area that was covered by huge ice sheets during the last Glacial Era. The perimeter of this giant rock is 49.6 metres and it weighs over 2,400 tons. A little more to the east you will find Kalvi Manor 27 with splendid sea views, fountains and a luxury restaurant. Purtse 28 is the location of a unique fortified dwelling house from the 16th century which is now a concert venue and a restaurant. You can take a stroll in the protected parks of Aa Manor 29 or Toila-Oru 30 , the latter of which is located right on the seacoast and is rich in various plant species. It surrounded the former presidential summer residence which was destroyed in World War II.

that are the result of oil shale mining and energy production, and the high chimneys of power plants. To get a panoramic view of the area climb to the top of the Kukruse slagheap 33 , a stones throw away from the Tallinn-Narva highway. The Kohtla Oil Shale Museum 34 organises tours to the former underground mine where you can ride in a mine wagon, try out mining tools and eat a miners lunch which is served right there.

Kohtla Oil Shale Museum

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he oldest written record on Jhvi 35 , the county centre, dates back to 1241. With its sea views and Stalinist buildings, Sillame 36 is a unique open air museum of the Soviet industrial heritage in Estonia. Narva 37 , which was once called the baroque pearl of the Baltic Sea but was almost completely destroyed in 1944 by the Soviet air force, offers its

the epic Estonian hero. Eastern Virumaa is also the location of the Kurtna lake district 39 where the hilly heath landscape covered mostly by pine forests is dotted with 40 larger and smaller lakes.
info:
Jhvi Tourist Information Centre +372 337 0568 e-mail johvi@visitestonia.com Narva Tourist Information Centre +372 356 0184 e-mail narva@visitestonia.com Rakvere Tourist Information Centre +372 324 2734 e-mail rakvere@visitestonia.com

Saku Brewery

WWW:

www.rakvere.ee | www.ida-viru.ee www.narva.ee | www.kaevanduspark.ee

West and South of Tallinn

visitors curious experiences. On the bank of the Narva River that has for centuries been regarded as the border between the Eastern and Western civilisations stands the powerful Hermann Fortress. Now a museum, it faces Ivangorod Fortress on the opposite side of the Narva River. A few kilometres upstream is the historical Kreenholm Manufacture, one of the largest textile factories in Europe in the second half of the 19th century.

hose who do not want to leave Tallinn for too long will find plenty

training centre of the Soviet submarine fleet. The beautiful Pakri islands 46 near Paldiski were settled by Swedes in 1345 and were used by the Soviet air force for bombing practice in post-Second World War decades. In the TallinnHaapsalu direction the sites of interest are Vasa lemma Manor 47 , the Padise Monastery that dates back to the 13th century 48 , Harju-Madise Church overlooking the Pakri Bay 49 and Harju-Risti Church with its unique steeple 50 .

he Phtitsa Dormition Convent in Kureme 38 , established in 1891 is the only Russian Orthodox cloister in Estonia and a destination for both pilgrims and curious travellers. In the distant past it was the place of hiis, a sacred grove worshipped in Estonias ancient Taara religion. On the hillside there was a sacrificial well. According to legends, the hill itself was created by Kalevipoeg,
Kureme Convent

to see within an hours drive from the capital. There is Estonias largest brewery in Saku 40 , the museum of which gives an overview of the history of brewing; there is also a pub where you can have a meal and taste the local beer. About ten kilometres away in Kurtna 41 there is a motorcycle museum and the Vembu-tembumaa family amusement park. eila Falls 42 are among the largest in Estonia. Wonderful views open from the 31-metre-high Trisalu limestone cliff 43 . Another impressive coastal cliff can be found on the Pakri Peninsula 44 dominated by a 54-metre-high lighthouse and wind power generators. Pal diski 45 , once turned into a closed town by the Soviet army, has remains of the naval fortress built by Peter the Great and the huge building of the former

n the way from Tallinn to Prnu it is worth visiting the partially restored Varbola Stronghold (first mentioned in 1212) 51 . Among the restored parts are the gateway, well, siege tower and some catapults. The settlement around Tuhala 52 is estimated to be as old as 3,000 years. There are 11 places of ancient settlements, cult stones and sacred groves in the area. Estonias oldest log road, dating back to the 3rd-4th centuries, can be found in the Heinasoo bog. Tuhala, the largest karst area in Estonia
Witchs Well at Tuhala

NORTH ESTONIA

is best known by its Witchs Well that gushes out water at the time of spring and autumn floods as well as by a hidden river that runs 1.5 kilometres underground. eople interested in manors should certainly visit those at Alu 53 , Kuu siku 54 , Valtu 55 and Purila 56 near the county centre Rapla 57 . Those keen on gardening should attend the flower fair in May in the Estonian spring capital Tri 58 . The places to still hunger here are the historical Nmme Tavern (1786) 87 , Kadri Tare Cafeteria, the station restaurant Klla Jrile and Saara Kohvi tuba, a caf praising the work of sewing. Interesting fabric dolls and decorations can also be seen in the Resa Tiits maas puppet room. And before leaving make sure you dont miss the brightly coloured cock weathervane on top of Tris three-nave church.

also marked bicycle routes leading to sights of natural beauty and historical buildings. Recreation areas with places for campfire, shelters and other necessary amenities, as well as archaic-romantic huts and old farm houses for overnight stays are managed by the State Forest Management Centre RMK. A hike in a bog will definitely be an unforgettable experience: by walking along a safe boardwalk you can enjoy untouched primeval nature. In Rapla and Jrva counties you can go canoeing on the rivers of Jgala, Pltsamaa and Prnu. For tips on equipment and guidance contact the canoe and bike trip services in Tamselja 60 , the Krve Centre 61 or the hiking and skiing centre in Krvemaa 62 . In Western Virumaa the rivers suitable for canoeing are Loobu, Kunda, Pedja and Valgejgi.

Kuuseknnu Riding Farm 71 , Pallase Stables 8 , Arma Riding Farm 72 or Oru Farm 73 in Western Virumaa. Kohala Manor 74 offers riding for children on Icelandic ponies. Golfers can enjoy their favourite pastime on the Niitvlja 68 and Suuresta 75 golf courses or practice at Sagadi Manor 10 . There are 44 safaris and ATV tours, kayak tours to small islands off the northern coast, wind surfing and rafting possibilities, wall-climbing and go-kart racing on the tracks of TriAlliku 76 and Aravete 77 . There are numerous possibilities for hunting bear, elk, wild boar and other big game; archery and bloodless hunting can be practiced at Saka Cliff Hotel & SPA 78 . Hunting tourism is mainly organised by RMK.

or those who love animals there is Tallinn Zoo and Sillaotsa Farm

ow we are not far from the town of Paide 59 that is the heartland of Estonia and the administrative centre of Jrvamaa. Paide, which became a town in 1291, has several historical monuments such as the octagonal gate tower of the order castle as well as a number of places for dining and recreation. Located halfway between Tallinn and Tartu, Paide is an excellent starting point for traveling south or north.
info:
Harju Tourist Information Centre +372 600 1333 e-mail harju@visitestonia.com Rapla Tourist Information Centre +372 489 4359 e-mail rapla@visitestonia.com Paide Tourist Information Centre +372 385 0400 e-mail paide@visitestonia.com

WWW:

www.jarva.ee | www.tyri.ee

Things to do...

lthough the weather in Estonia can be quite changeable, the beach season usually kicks off in early June. Bathing in the sea is limited to July and August but lakes and shallow bays have warmer temperatures. But a high season or not, Estonian beaches such as Kloogarand 63 , Kaberneeme 64 , Salmistu 65 , Vsu 66 , Vainupea 67 , Narva-Jesuu and the northern coast of Lake Peipsi offer nevertheless lots of atmosphere, fresh salty sea breeze, and an opportunity to be on ones own. Those who seek fun and company should head for Pirita, Stroomi or Kakume beach in Tallinn. eople interested in horseback riding can choose between the Niitvlja 68 or Ruila 69 stables in Harju county, Maasikme Riding Farm 70 in Rapla county, Jneda Stables 21 in Jrvamaa,

Museum 79 . In summer, the childrens amusement park Vembu-tembumaa in Kurtna 41 attracts visitors with trampolines, an obstacle track and an outdoor grill. In the Keila aquapark 80 one can indulge in all sorts of water activities all year round. The spa resorts in Viimsi 81 , Laulasmaa 82 and Toila 30 offer the possibilities to relax in pools, saunas and salt chambers as well as to enjoy massage and other treatments. Visitors who prefer rural holidays should visit the Vljaotsa farmhouse-spa with sauna and massage

hose keen on holidays in nature will find various hiking routes, nature trails, guided manor tours and horseback riding trips in Lahemaa. There are

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services 83 . One can relax in modern infrared and steam saunas at Saka Cliff Hotel & SPA 78 , jump straight into icy water from an archaic smoke sauna in Tri-Alliku 76 , visit a transparent plastic sheet sauna at Vana-Veski Holiday Centre in Ussisoo 84 , enjoy a barrel sauna of Anne Holiday House 85 or test the heat of a very special sauna built inside a fire truck at Jrva-Jaani 86 .
WWW:
www.retked.ee | www.ropeclimber.com www.egk-golf.ee | www.tallinnzoo.ee www.viimsitervis.ee | www.saka.ee www.laulasmaa.ee | www.toilasanatoorium.ee www.veskisilla.ee

... and places to go

allinn has many memorable dining establishments that offer either medieval menus and atmosphere (Olde Hansa, Peppersack), Estonian cuisine (Kuldse Notsu Krts, Vanaema Juures), Italian dishes (Bocca, Controvento), Russian food (Nevskij, Troika), international and modern cuisine (Pegasus, Novell), exclusive gourmet experience (Stenhus, Egoist) and much more. Party animals head for high-class nightclubs such as Priv, Moscow, Hollywood, BonBon, Parliament, etc. There is always something different happening in places such as Von Krahl, LoveSexMoney, Levist Vljas (Out of Coverage), KuKu and Cultural Factory Polymer. Trend magazines praise Tallinn as a nightlife capital in the Nordic countries. Yet there are plenty of possibilities for more peaceful activities and family vacations as well as space for wandering and meditating on ones own.

in Lahemaa, Nmme Tavern 87 in Rapla maa and Musta Tku Tall 21 in Jrvamaa attract with excellent meals and the authentic ambience of a country pub. At trout farms at Hru 88 , Jgisoo 89 , Veski silla 76 and Vaikla 90 you can spend an enjoyable day outdoors, catching fish and having it prepared and cooked or smoked on the spot.

heatres, cinemas and museums make their best efforts to ensure a pleasant stay in Tallinn. In Kadriorg Castle one can enjoy classical painting and

ining places with distinctive character can also be found outside Tal linn. The taverns of Viitna 8 and Altja 5

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sculpture; in autumn 2005 the new contemporary art museum KUMU will open its doors in Kadriorg. There is always something to see in the Tallinn Art Hall, Rotermanns Salt Storage, and the Museum of Applied Arts and Design. The numerous boutiques and galleries in the Old Town are works of art in their own right: here you can see exciting historical limestone interiors decorated with murals, mixing boldly the ultramodern and the archaic.

stonias most famous festival is unquestionably the National Song and Dance Festival which takes place every five years. Summer events include the Tallinn Old Town Days and the Medieval Tallinn festival. There is also the Black Nights Film Festival which takes place in different places and at different times, the jazz festival Jazzkaar, the new music festival NYYD, the theatre festival Baltoscandal, the church music festival in Rapla 57 and the folklore festival Viru Sru 11 . For a different experience you can visit the Viking Days in Ksmu 7 , the Tri Flower Festival 58 , the Avi nurme Coopers Fair 91 , the Masters Fair

in Paide 59 , the Jneda gardening and flower days 21 , the woman-carrying competition in Mriku 92 and watch barrel riding at Porkuni Lake 93 . Art lovers will enjoy the Tallinn Print Triennial, the Paide Limestone Festival 59 , the wood sculpting festival Vambola Puu 51 , and the ceramics symposiums at Tohisoo Manor 94 . Katariina Guild in the Tallinn Old Town, Puraviku Windmills Smithy 55 , Atla Manor ceramics workshop 95 , Kandlekoda 96 in Raplamaa and the smithy at Palmse manor 11 are places

where master craftsmen make beautiful handicrafts and where sometimes workshops are organised for tourists. The favourites of visitors to Estonia are woollen sweaters with colourful patterns, linen garments, items made of juniper wood and articles of wrought iron.

ast but not least, one can visit the motorcycle museum in Kurtna 41 , the firefighting museum in Jrva-Jaani 86 , the glass museum in Jrvakandi 97 , the cement museum in Kunda 24 and the Estonian Broadcasting Museum 58 . When in Tallinn, visit the History Museum in the Old Town or the Estonian Open Air Museum. Limestone and limestone products are on display in the Porkuni Limestone Museum in Lne-Virumaa 93 and at the Gildemanns dolomite centre in Jalase 98 in Raplamaa.
WWW:
www.opera.ee | www.concert.ee www.ekm.ee | www.etdm.ee www.evm.ee | www.eam.ee www.svm.ee | www.bocca.ee www.restoranpegasus.ee | www.egoist.ee www.troika.ee | www.restoran.ee/viitna

SOUTH ESTONIA

Tartu and Lake Peipsi

entioned for the first time in 1030, Tartu 1 is the centre of South Estonia and the countrys second-largest town. Its pride is the University of Tartu, founded in 1632, whose academic staff has among other outstanding scholars included Karl Ernst von Baer, a pioneer of the theory of evolution and modern embryology, and Juri Lotman, the founder of structural semiotics. Tartu is also the birthplace of Estonian national literature

tance from the city centre is Supilinn (Soup town), a picturesque and rather worn-out district of wooden houses, with streets named after vegetables. Other districts worth seeing are Karlova, Tammelinn and Thtvere.

10

s you leave Tallinn towards Tartu make a stopover in Pltsamaa 2 , Estonias wine capital. The local wines from apples and black currants are delicious and certainly worth tasting. This small town has also a rose nursery and seventeen bridges. Near county centre Jgeva 3 there are the ruins of the Laiu se citadel 4 , the winter residence of the king of Sweden Karl XII during the Great Northern War. A legend says that the king personally planted a linden tree that is still growing in the local churchyard 300 years later.

macy buildings, a watermill, and an ancient churchyard. The Luua Arboretum 6 houses around 750 different species of trees and bushes, while the garden of Saare Manor 7 grows a wide selection of herbs. Vooremaa is the home for Elist vere Animal Park 8 that accommodates many local animals and birds.

ur ther east there is Lake Peipsi, Europes fourth largest lake. The mainly Russian settlements on the shores of the lake originate from religious refugees who settled there in the 17th and

E
Tartu

and journalism, and it hosted the first national song festival in 1869. The towns most notable buildings are the main University building, St. Johns Church (1323), famous for its unique terracotta statues, and the Town Hall, which dates back to the 18th century.

ndla Nature Reserve belongs to the list of wetlands of international importance under Ramsar Convention. Among other things it offers boat trips, study tours and an opportunity to climb the top of an observation tower right next to bog pools. Another interesting area is

Onion beds at Lake Peipsi

hen you take a walk in the distinctly classical old town dont miss the famous statue of kissing students in front of the Town Hall or Tartus Tower of Pisa, the leaning building of the art museum by the Town Hall Square. Toomemgi, one of Tartus main landmarks, is an English-style park located on the site of the former Estonian stronghold. Toomemgi is known for its two bridges, the Devils Bridge and the Angels Bridge, the Observatory, and the ruins of Dome Church, which was the largest cathedral in Livonia when it was completed in the 15th century. At the foot of the hill you will find Wilde Pub with a cosy bookstore and the bronze figures of two prominent writers: Estonian Eduard Vilde and BritishIrish Oscar Wilde.

Laiuse

Vooremaa with its picturesque drumlins formed by glacial drift and eight lakes full of fish. At the heart of Vooremaa you will find Palamuse 5 with its parish school museum, old vicarage and pharVhandu River

18th centuries. They were the so-called Old Believers who opposed the official teachings of the Orthodox Church. These people live in unique one street villages that stretch for miles. The museum in Kolkja 9 collects and preserves everything related to the Old Believers, and a local restaurant offers authentic fish and onion dishes. In Raja 10 pay a visit to the monastery of Old Believers or go swimming or fishing. Not far from the shores of Peipsi lies Alatskivi Castle 11 in the middle of a nice deer garden. Life seems to have stopped in Piirissaare 12 , an island of fishermen and onion growers. In summer you can get there by fer-

he dominant element in Tartu is the Emajgi River which divides the town into two parts and which used to be an important trade route in the past centuries. Within a walking dis-

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ry from Tartu. On the way to Peipsi great views open on the vast expanse of Ema je Suursoo Nature Protection Area on both banks of the Emajgi River.
info:
Tartu Tourist Information Centre +372 744 2111 e-mail tartu@visitestonia.com Palamuse Tourist Information Centre +372 776 8520 e-mail palamuse@visitestonia.com

www:

www.tartu.ee | turism.tartumaa.ee www.jogevamv.ee

Plvamaa and Setumaa

he hilly landscapes of southern Estonia are punctuated by large and small lakes, rivers, valleys, meadows covered with scattered trees and forests, swamps and bogs. South of Tartu in the primeval valley of the Ahja River lies Taevaskoda 13 with its 24 metres high bare sandstone rocks that are 400 million years old. Taevaskoda is a popular destination for horseback riding. And if lucky, you may spot a rare kingfisher. In the Kiidjrve-Taevaskoja holiday area na-

43 metres), old mill sites, and beautiful meadows and forests.

hungry you can stop in Tiinas Kitchen in Veriora 22 .

11

n Rpina 17 one can find one of the oldest paper plants in Europe (founded in 1734) which is still working. There are more than 300 species of trees and bushes in the park of classical Sillapea Manor. The county capital Plva 18 is a small, peaceful town which emerged around the 16th century St. Marys Church. Other tourist attractions include the Intsikurmu song festival grounds, an impressive community centre, and the beach on the shore of an artificial lake.

n the southeasternmost corner of Estonia is Setumaa, a region characterised by an interesting mixture of Estonian and Russian cultures, which is inhabited by native Setus who speak their own dialect, difficult to understand by other Estonians. Famous are Setu national

M
Akste ants protection area

eenikunno Landscape Protection Area 19 is a place to experience

ture lovers should check out the Akste 14 ants protection area, with its up to two metres high anthills, and the Kiidjrve water mill. In summertime its a pleasure to board the riverboat Lonny for a tour of the Saesaare water reservoir. An interesting hiking route and a watchtower help to discover Valgesoo Landscape Protection Area 15 .

Meenikunno Landscape Protection Area

he awesome sandstone vaults of the caves in Piusa 16 are worthy of a church and are marked for safe access. This is one of the largest hibernation locales for bats in northeastern Europe, which is why the caves are closed in winter. In the Piusa pottery, located in the former railway station, visitors can try their hand at ceramics. Further south is the protection area of the Piusa River primeval valley that features huge exposed sandstone rocks (including Hrma Wall, Estonias highest at

the silence and tranquility of bogs, and to admire Valgejrv (White Lake) which has the clearest water in Estonia, and its sister Mustjrv (Black Lake) with its dark waters. There are meteorite craters in Ilumetsa 20 , the largest of which is called the Hells Grave and is 80 metres across. Not far away are the Devils Grave and the Ghosts Grave which, according to the locals, are shortcuts to Hell. Those with an interest in ecological tourism should visit Svahavva (Deep Grave) Nature Farm 21 , which organises tours to the Vhandu River, and helps you get to know local herbs. If you are

costumes, decorated with massive silver trappings, and a special style of singing called leelo. Peko, the Setu god of fertility, belongs to an ancient religion that predates Christianity, and there are archaic elements in the Setu way of life even today. You can get a good overview of the Setu culture at the Setu Kingdom Days, held annually in August, where among other things Pekos representative on earth is elected. he Setu Farm Museum in Vrska 23 has many exhibits showing centuries of farmhouse architecture, old tools, and samples of handicraft, and also serves traditional Setu food. Yo u c a n d i n e , bathe and, for example, play tennis at Hir veme

SOUTH ESTONIA

Holiday Centre. Vrska has a spa well-known for its curative mud and mineral waters. In Obinitsa 24 you will find the Seto Muuseumitar museum that presents the way Setus lived and worked from 1920 to 1940. The Obinitsa artificial lake, adorned by the statue of the Setu Mother of Song, is good for swimming, fishing and boat rides. The Setu museum in Saatse 25 has more than 20,000 examples of Setu culture. There are also many interesting small village chapels called tssson in Setumaa. And be prepared for surprises in Setumaa. It is, for example, a venue for the annual meeting of the Estonian Volkswagen Beetle Club.
info:
Plva Tourist Information Centre +372 799 5001 e-mail polva@visitestonia.com Rpina Tourist Information Centre +372 796 4810 e-mail rapina@visitestonia.com

Estonian writer who composed our national epic Kalevipoeg in it while he was a town doctor. Other tourist attractions are the beaches by the lakes of Tamula and Kubija, a hunters and fishers settlement dating back to the Stone Age, and the Meegome motocross track. n the Haanja Upland the traveller will find the highest peak of the generally low and flat Estonia Suur Munamgi (318 m) 29 , the deepest body of water Ruge Suurjrv (38m) 30 , the deepest primeval valley Ktiorg (70 m) 31 with a downhill skiing resort, and the Vllame bog 32 with the thickest layer of peat (17 m) in Estonia. Magnificent views open on the varied southern Esto nian landscape from the tower on Suur Munamgi. Haanja Nature Park, created to protect the local landscapes and traditions, attracts visitors as a holiday-making destination in summer; one can enjoy the colours of nature in autumn and go skiing in winter.

WWW:
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www.southestonia.info www.polvamaa.ee | www.polvamaale.ee www.hot.ee/setotour www.hot.ee/setomuuseum

Ruge Church

Vrumaa and Valgamaa

hen in Vastseliina 26 one should visit the ruins of the 14th century episcopal castle which once used to be a popular destination for pilgrimages. Visitors are welcome to eat and relax at Piiri Tavern, the location of which was printed on a road map as early as in 1695. This is also the starting point for trips to the Piusa primeval valley and colourful fairs are held here in summer. From the 202-metre Mereme Hill 27 nearby you can get a good overview of the surrounding landscape and in clear weather even the golden cupolas of the Orthodox churchHinni Canyon es in Petseri on the Russian side are visible. Vrumaa, with its hilly landscapes, primeval valleys and forests, has always been considered one of the most beautiful parts of Estonia. One of the characteristic features of Vru 28 , the county centre, is its interesting wooden architecture. One of the modest wooden houses is now the museum of Fr. R. Kreutzwald, the famous
View from Suur Munamgi

n Ruge 30 you will find a church harmonising with the surrounding beautiful landscapes. In the vicinity there is a unique complex of seven lakes, connected to one another, and Nightingale Valley that echoes with nightingale song in spring. In Tindiorg a traveller can admire the smart water pumps called water rams that are powered by the flowing water itself, swing on the village swing or visit the ostrich farm. You can have dinner in the Saarsilla farm caf in Ruge, fish and grill trout in Tindiorg or at Veski Farm in Saarlase Village. In the Hinni Canyon 33 near Kahrila Lake there are impressive Taagepera Castle sandstone rocks. In the open-air museum in Mniste 34 you can see authentic old farmhouses and try weaving on the handloom, look for the vein of water with a magic rod, chop wood or show your whole family around in a horsecarriage. A scenic landscape can be enjoyed on a bike or on foot also in Paganamaa (Devils Land) near the Latvian border; a legend has it that its valleys were formed from the footprints of the Devil fleeing from a thunderstorm.

stonias smallest, Karula National Park (visitors centre in hijrve 35 ) is a mixture of meadows, forests, lakes and bogs. Here you can admire rare plants and with a bit of luck encounter a black stork, a fish hawk, or an otter. Metsamoori Family Park in Mhkli 36 , consisting of ten holiday farms, and the Pokumaa hiking trail in Visela 37 are a real treat for families with children. Near Urvaste 38 you will find the 700 years

SOUTH ESTONIA

old Tamme-Lauri oak, the largest tree in Estonia. On the slope of the picturesque primeval valley stands the 14th-century church in Urvaste which is the oldest preserved building in Vrumaa and as a basilica unique among Estonian country churches.

alga 39 , the county capital, is actually a twin-town with Valka in Latvia and they are split in two by the border. North from Valga towards Otep lies Sangaste Castle 40 , a major example of the Historicist style in the Baltic States, with a remarkable park with numerous unusual plant species. There is also a hotel and restaurant in the castle. Equally impressive is Taagepera Castle 41 situated in the middle of primeval forests which is considered one of the finest examples of the Art Nouveau manor houses in Europe. Today the castle accommodates a hotel-conference centre where one can enjoy a health programme focusing on different methods of massage or go pheasant hunting. Its little brother Holdre Castle 42 has been built in the same style.

Meadow in Soomaa

tep 48 is the the most well-known winter sports centre in the Baltics and the winter capital of Estonia. It got its name (bears head) after the peculiarly shaped hill, onto which was built the first known brick castle in Estonia in 1224. The Estonian national blue-blackand-white tricolor was blessed for the first time in the local St. Marys Church on 4 June, 1884. There is the Estonian Flag Museum now in Otep pastors mansion. Otep Nature Park is a highly appreciated holiday area comprising a landscape of rolling hills and lakes, romantic winding village roads and small rivers. Beautiful views open from the observation towers on top of 217-metre Kuutsemgi 49 , Harimgi 50 and Vike Munamgi 51 hills. In wintertime the area is a paradise for skiers, snow mobile riders and to everyone enjoying snow: there are lit slalom slopes equipped with elevators, innumerable cross-country tracks, the skiing centres in Tehvandi and Kuutse me and the ski museum in Otep.

in magic forces should pay a visit to the so-called energy pillar in Otep.
info:
Vru Tourist Information Centre +372 782 1881 e-mail voru@visitestonia.com Valga Tourist Information Centre +372 766 1699 e-mail valga@visitestonia.com Otep Tourist Information Centre +372 766 1200 e-mail otepaa@visitestonia.com
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WWW:

www.southestonia.info | www.vorulinn.ee www.visitvoru.ee | www.haanjamaa.ee www.karularahvuspark.ee

Viljandi and Soomaa

he county centre Viljandi 53 is the hilliest town in Estonia with lots of greenery and ancient trees, winding streets and the ruins of the powerful order castle built between the 13th and 16th centuries. Organ concerts are held in St. Johns Church (1466); worth seeing are the Town Hall, the water and watch tower as well as the suspended bridge, the symbol of the town. The old pharmacy building now houses a museum introducing the history of Viljandi. There is a nice beach, boat rentals and sports grounds at the scenic Viljandi Lake. In town one will find cosy cafs and restaurants; in Uueveski Holiday Centre one can catch trout and prepare ones own meal.

O
n the vicinity of Trva 43 , a miniature garden town and historical place of tarburning, are the Helme caves 44 and ruins of an order castle, Orjakivi (Slaves Stone) and a sacrificial well where young girls are said to have sacrificed beads to preserve their beauty. Today there is a caf in the old smithy. On the bottom of Valg jrv Lake further south 45 one can see the remains of a 1,500 years old pile dwelling. One can go bathing and simply enjoy nature both at Valgjrv Lake and Tndre Lake 46 . In Jgeveste 47 one can visit the mausoleum of Barclay de Tolly, the Russian general in the Napoleonic Wars.

tep also boasts the most beautiful lake in Estonia Phajrv 52 (Holy Lake), featuring in many artists paintings. In summertime Phajrv and around one hundred other lakes in the area offer various activities ranging from rowing and paddle boat rides to fishing and sunbathing. There are also tennis courts and hiking trails as well as a soon opening golf course. Those who believe
Viljandi

or nature lovers the main attraction in Viljandimaa is certainly Soomaa National Park. In spring and autumn, sometimes also in rainy summers, the rivers overflow their banks and flood the fields, forests and pastures so that the water level may rise up to six metres above the lowest level. Yet the floods in Soomaa are not a natural disaster but the areas characteristic feature and a spectacle for tourists. The locals main vehicle at the time

SOUTH ESTONIA

14

of floods is the boat and in some places also the archaic haabjas a boat hewn from the trunk of one single big aspen tree. Soomaa is the habitat for bear, lynx and wolf; one can encounter rare orchids and flocks of migrating birds resting on the water. Boating on the rivers one will notice meadows covered with scattered trees and virgin forests abundant with different plant species. Thirteen different hikPilistvere ing and nature study trails, observation towers, hiking huts and 10 camping sites help to discover the secrets of the national park. More detailed information can be obtained from the visitors centre in KrtsiTramaa 54 . Exciting activities will surprise adventurers in the Karuskose holiday centre 55 : beaver safaris, overnight stay in the owls nest on top of a big linden tree, the floating sauna Phamristus (Good Heavens) and of course boat trips. One may have a chance to see the making of haabjas and even hold an ax in ones hand. Sookolli Sgituba (Swamp Bogys Dining Room) serves characteristic local meals based on recipes dating from the grandmothers time. In Lubjassaare 56 one can visit a farm musem, the birthplace of Johann Kler, a pioneer of the nations professional art; there are also a camping site and swings. The Ruunaraipe dunes 57 nearby are the remains of the ancient seashore. The Kurekiiva farm museum of taxidermy in Sandra Village 58 displays local animals and birds as well as horns and skulls of wild animals. iljandimaa borders on Vrtsjrv, Estonias largest inland water body, and a popular destination for fishermen who catch eel, pike and bream here. The southern part of the county attracts visitors with its scenic landscape and sights of interest. In Heimtali there is a museum of regional history 59 with a large collection of Estonian handicraft and an interesting vodka distillery with four towers. Karksi-Nuia 60 is a nice small town by the Halliste primeval valley; there are ruins of a stronghold, a church with a leaning steeple and a winery. One will find several bathing places and picnic sites in the neighbourhood. Nearby in Allaste Village there is the Mgiste spruce tree whose trunk has 13 forks. isu 61 has a beautiful 18th century manor complex and an old smithy open for tourists. The 15th century Halliste 62 church has a unique black ceiling and a modern altar painting and is considered one of the prettiest churches in Estonia.

terested in plants. The market town of Suure-Jaani 66 boasts St. Johns fortified church that dates back to the 14th century, a nice park and an artificial lake. Three kilometres away there is the Lhavere stronghold hill 67 , the home base of Lembitu, the legendary leader of the Estonian freedom-fighters in the war with the Teutonic Order.
info:
Viljandi Tourist Information Centre +372 433 0442 e-mail viljandi@visitestonia.com

WWW:

www.viljandi.ee | www.viljandimaa.ee | www.soomaa.ee | www.soomaa.com

Things to do...
etailed information on hikes on foot or by bicycle can be obtained from tourist information centres. Canoeers favourites are Soomaa National Park and the Ahja and Vhan du rivers with their old water mill sites, rapids and high sandstone banks. After the trip it is refreshing to enjoy sauna and organic food on a tourist farm. Most lakes and rivers, including Lake Peipsi although most of its shoreline is filled with reeds, are suitable for bathing. There are also plenty of small beaches created at artificial lakes. Horseback riding, both indoors and outdoors, horse sledge picnics by torchlight in wintry woods with mulled wine and snacks all this is offered by Timmo Stables near Plva 68 and several tourist farms.

kiing fans can participate in the Tartu Cross-Country Marathon, belonging to the Worldloppet series. Its 60kilometre track from Otep 48 to Elva can be cycled through on mountain bikes in summer. Various activities are offered by Junsi Holiday Centre near Kpu 69 including ATV trips, rifle shooting, motor and canoe trips to Soomaa and bloodless hunting with the camera. The water festival and inflatable boat race in Ruge 30 are fun for everyone. You can go
Making the local dugout boat (haabjas) in Soomaa

n Olustvere it is worth visiting the tourist centre in the manor house 63 , the collection of wooden horses, and a park with majestic alleys. The Pilistvere memorial 64 to the victims of the Communist genocide is a place for a quiet stopover. By bringing field stones to the base of the large cross Estonians commemorate the tens of thousands of compatriots who were deported to Siberia. The date carved in the wall stone of the steeple of Pilistvere Church 1222 testifies to the beginning of the missionary work of the Cistertians in this area. The Energy Farm in Vihi Village 65 grows herbs and organises special tours for those in-

SOUTH ESTONIA

pheasant hunting at Taagepera Castle 41 , while the main organiser of hunting tourism is the State Forest Management Centre RMK. n Vrumaa, families with children should certainly visit the Metsamoori Family Park in Mhkli 36 , and the Poku maa hiking trail in Visela 37 . In Nursi 70 in Midriait you can try your weaving skills. July and August are the best months for picking berries and wild mushrooms in the woods with the help of a good guidebook. This very popular tradition in Estonia is almost forgotten in Western Europe but you only have to compare the taste of the wild blackberry to that of the cultivated blackberry, and you will see the difference!

the Werner and Wilde cafs, the nightclub Atlantis right next to the River Emajgi, and a number of other cosy or trendy places. In Tammeknnu Holiday Centre near Plva in Mammaste 68 one can try the menu based on thousandyear-old recipes and before that enjoy activities in the nature. Modern and yet

sive overview of Estonian history and culture is provided by the Estonian National Museum and of art, by the Art Museum. Quality handicraft can be found at Antoniuse Guild. The grand open-air performances of Vanemuine Theatre in summer have become a tradition. The wellknown expression in Estonia, the Tartu

f you are looking for something special visit the Sleep Centre in Kubija 71 to check the quality of your sleep,

15

Lake Music Festival at Leigo

Smoke sauna in South Estonia

to cure insomnia and generally improve your health. A wide range of medical and recreational services is available in Phajrve 52 spa. While you are in South Estonia, try out the smoke sauna where it is customary to beat oneself with juniper, nettle or birch twigs, whereafter you can spoil yourself with delicious local beer and food. Another possibility is to combine canoeing with a barrel sauna experience: it is a giant wooden barrel that is filled with water heated by an underwater stove. Karuskose Holiday Centre in Soomaa 55 attracts visitors with its floating sauna called Phamristus (Good Heavens); a similar one can be found in Paunkla Holiday Centre.
WWW:
www.kagureis.ee | www.suusaliit.ee www.junsi.ee | www.taageperaloss.ee www.pokumaa.ee www.kaikakant.ee/metsamoor www.kubija.ee | www.pyhajarve.com

characteristically Estonian dishes are served by many taverns, restaurants and pubs. Tourist farms are also known for their excellent food. In Setumaa in southeast Estonia try baked potatoes with sauerkraut, cottage cheese and raisin bread. Wash it down with mead and the local white whiskey called hansa to the background of live music. Local organic food products and outdoor grilling are held in high esteem here. Estonians value especially highly domestic milk and meat products, rye and barley bread. In Tartu visit the riverside vegetable and flower market, even just for fun or to see colourful country types.

spirit, signifies the academic-bohemian atmosphere and the inexplicable something else, which you simply have to experience yourself. n summer there is an impressive openair Lake Music Festival at Leigo 72 near Otep. The eventful summers in Viljandi 53 culminate with the Old Music Festival and the traditional music festival Viljandi Folk. The Kondas Centre exhibits exciting paintings by Paul Kondas, the bestknown nave artist in Estonia. The most important cultural event in Vru 28 is the international folklore festival accompanied by a handicraft fair. In the Bagpipe Farm in Riidaja 73 you can listen to a live bagpipe ensemble and see how this instrument is made. The farm serves traditional Estonian food, and dont be surprised to find there also a small airstrip. At the Hellenurme water mill 74 visitors can see how grain is turned into flour and taste oven-warm bread. You can walk in the beautiful garden in Kaasiku Farm 75 and visit their lace chamber; Lusika Farm 76 has a lovely rose garden. In the museum of regional history in Heimtali 59 textile artist Anu Raud has assembled a complete collection of Estonian national handicrafts; there are knitted toy animals with traditional patterns on display.

artu 1 has a lively cultural life all year round where the youthful high-

...and places to go

n Tartu there is Pssirohukelder (Gun powder Cellar) with its impressive interior, the restaurant-club Maailm (World),

lights are the Hansa days and the students days with the relay race in carnival costumes and the inflatable boat race on the River Emajgi. A comprehen-

SOUTH ESTONIA

16

Vru Folklore Festival

or a better understanding of Estonian contemporary history one should visit the Forest Brothers farm in VastseRoosa Village 77 which restores the scene of freedom fighting in Estonia after World War II when thousands of men and women went into hiding in forests and swamps, not being able to accept the Soviet occupation. One can spend the night in an ascetic underground bunker; the local theatre troupe revives a piece of history a battle between the freedom fighters and the Russian security forces.
WWW:
www.vanemuine.ee | www.erm.ee www.tammekanuu.ee | www.leigo.ee www.folk.ee | www.werro.ee/folkloor

Lnemaa

aapsalu 1 was granted the rights of town in 1279 and nowadays it is the administrative centre of Lne County. Its main attraction is the episcopal castle that today accommodates a museum and a caf, and hosts plays
Koluvere Castle

WEST ESTONIA

and concerts in its courtyard. At full moon in August a translucent figure of a woman the White Lady appears in the window of the baptistery of Dome Church, the largest one-nave church in the Baltics. The old city centre is characterised by a miniature town hall and romantic wooden dwelling houses. By the seaside Promenade stands Kuursaal, one of the finest wooden buildings in Estonia, which houses a summer restaurant. The first mud spa opened its doors in Haapsalu in 1825. Haapsalu was the favourite holiday spot for the family of Russian czars and the famous composer Peter Tchaikovsky among others. Today, people are attracted to Haapsalu by its historic and maritime ambience and by the Paralepa beach.

Promenade in Haapsalu

aapsalu was a source of inspiration for Ilon Wikland who grew up here and later illustrated the childrens books of the world famous Swedish writer Ast r id L indgren. From the 13th centur y until World War II there was a large Swedish community in West Estonia, which explains why so many locations in Haapsalu Castle the area have Swedish names. To get a glimpse of the culture and history of the people called Coastal Swedes, you can visit special museums in Haap salu and Saare (Lyckholm) 2 . he landscape in Noarootsi is dotted with low lakes and thickets of reeds tens of thousands of birds touch down here in their spring migration. One will find nice beaches in sterby 3 and by the Roosta Resort 4 and can visit Noa rootsi Tavern 5 in Prksi for a meal. The island of Vormsi 6 with its juniper fields, seaside meadows, erratic boulders and lighthouses is best toured on a bicycle or on foot. The graveyard of Vormsi Church (1632) is famous for numerous ancient circular crosses.

atsalu National Park is a real paradise for bird watchers: it is an important migration stopover and nesting place for birds. 275species of birds, 49 species of fish and 47 species of mammals have been recorded here. More information on hiking trails, bird-watching towers and boat rides is available in the centre of the national park in Penije 7 . Characteristic of Marimetsa Nature Protection Area 8 is a bog with numerous pools, sand dunes covered with pine forest, a boardwalk hiking route and observation towers. eople interested in history should visit the well-preserved Koluvere Order Castle 9 , medieval churches in Kullamaa 10 and Ridala 11 , and the museum of local history in Lihula Manor House 12 . There are vast expanses of land in Lnemaa and it is a nice area for just wandering around in the fields of junipers or at the seaside.

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info:

Tourist Information Centre: +372473 3248 e-mail haapsalu@visitestonia.com

WWW:

www.aiboland.ee | www.matsalu.ee | www.eoy.ee

Hiiumaa
iiumaa is famous for its virgin nature, picturesque coastal landscapes and a peaceful pace of life. Already on the mainland, in Rohukla Harbour waiting for the ferry to Heltermaa a peculiar peaceful and pleasant feeling will sink in.

WEST ESTONIA

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he county centre Krdla 13 is a cosy little town with small wooden houses, beautiful gardens and a nice beach. Most of Hiiumaa is covered with forests; the Kpu Lighthouse 14 the symbol of Hiiumaa rising high above treetops attracts the eye from a great distance. This imposing structure was erected in the first half of the 16th century and is the worlds third-oldest operating lighthouse. The windy, shingled beach of the Ristna Peninsula 15 has made it a popular surfing centre. Luidja 16 is famous for its beautiful beach and Reigi 17 for its church, known from The Vicar of Reigi, a novel by Aino Kallas. Near Krdla is Ristimgi (Cross Hill) 18 with thousands of crosses made by visitors from rocks, leaves or branches. At the tip of the Tahkuna Peninsula 19 there is a fine lighthouse and a memorial to the children who perished in the disaster of the ferry Estonia; nearby are ruins of Kpu Lighthouse military installations from various periods of time. The shoreline of the peninsula is ideal for long walks in search of inner calm.

Saaremaa

stonias largest island Saaremaa is a beloved destination for hiking, holiday-making or for just enjoying sea breeze and beautiful sights. After taking a ferry from Virtsu you arrive first in Muhumaa. There is Muhu Church 25 in the Gothic style (1267), Koguva Village 26 with its old farm buildings, stone fences and draw wells, and Pdaste Manor 27 which offers luxury accommodations and top-of-the-line cuisine. A working windmill can be found in Linnuse Village 28 and an ostrich farm nearby. The atmosphere and nature on islets such as Kinastu, Vilaid and Suurelaid are also worth discovering. he sea dam across the Strait of Vike Vin takes you to Saare maa where you will probably want to see Kuressaare, the islands capital first. Short detours along the way are certainly rewarding. In Pide 29 towers a massive 13th century fortified church and not far away you will find Kahutsi earthen stronghold and a boarded trail in the Koigi Bog. As imposing as Pide is Valjala Church 30 , the oldest one in Saaremaa with its unique frescos. Close by are the remains of Valjala Stronghold that was the last in Estonia to surrender to the German Teutonic Knights in 1227.
Muhu Church

he oldest place of worship on the island is Phalepa Church 20 with a unique stone pulpit. The splendid Suuremisa Castle is close by. Driving towards Kina one passes the Vaemla wool factory 21 where one can watch the work of centuriesold machinery, buy local products and re freshment s in the caf. The narrow Sre peninsula in the southwest of Kassari Island 22 stretches far into the sea; with its warm coastal wa- Sre Peninsula ter it is a great sunbathing and bathing spot. Other places worth visiting in Kassari are the Hiiumaa Museum and the unique reed-roofed chapel. Hiking on the Orjaku 23 nature trail one can observe a host of birds in the Bay of Kina. Up to 10 metres high junipers in Nasva 24 are a must Tahkuna see. Tough and aromatic juniper wood and products crafted from it are the trademark of the Estonian islands. Both Kassari and Kina offer plenty of places for dining and staying the night.
info:
Tourist Information Centre: +372462 2232 e-mail hiiumaa@visitestonia.com

WWW:

www.saared.ee | www.hiiumaa.ee turism.moonsund.ee

WEST ESTONIA

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Kuressaare

ear Kljala you will find the roundshaped Kaali Lake 31 , set in a meteorite crater and, a rare natural object in the context of the whole world. The space rock that hit the Kaali area only a few thousand years ago is the last known meteorite to hit a densely pop-

in dining and entertainment spots, several high-standard health spas, and a yachting harbour. South of Kuressaare lies the protected Loode oak wood, and further down the Srve Peninsula where in World War II some of the heaviest battles in Estonia took place.

around 100 small islands. Tens of thousands of waterfowl migrate through or nest in the national park, and most of the Baltic grey seals come to breed in Innarahu Reserve. Vilsandi Island can be reached by boat from the harbour of Papisaare or if the sea level is low, by

Koguva Village

Kaali Lake

Limestone Cliff at Panga

ulated area. This is why it has shaped not only the local landscape but the mythology as well. The Kaali catastrophy, comparable to a nuclear blast, has inspired writers and historians (including Lennart Meri, President of Estonia in 19922001) to link the local big bang to the roots of Fenno-Ugric mythology or the Phaethons flight and fall in Greek mythology.

n northwest Saaremaa near Kihelkonna you will find the Mihkli Farm Museum 33 . What makes it unique is the fact that the items on display in this fully preserved farmhouse complex have been made on the farm over six generations. Loona Manor 34 houses the centre of Vil sandi National Park which encompasses

walking across through the water. Access to the nesting areas of birds and animals is limited to tourists. A beautiful view on the islands opens also from the peninsula of Harilaid 35 , whose tip is adorned with a tilted lighthouse. Nature-lovers will enjoy a visit to Viidume Nature Protection Area, the centre of which is in Audaku 36 . There is a museum that has an exhibition of rare and protected plants.

he brand of Kuressaare 32 is a very well preserved 14th century episcopal castle which houses the Museum of Saaremaa. Visitors of the castle can order medieval dinner and enjoy the view over the town and the sea opening from the tower caf. The old town, built between the 17th and 19th centuries, abounds

ne of the attractions in Saaremaa is the steep and impressive limestone cliff on the northern coast at Ninase 37 and Panga 38 where it rises 21 metres above the sea level. Culturally and historically interesting are the windmills at Angla 39 ; the medieval, rustic Karja church

WEST ESTONIA

camping in Saaremaa. Those looking for an island of their own can take a boat from Kuressaare to Abruka Island 46 .
info:
Tourism Information Centre: +372453 3120 e-mail kuressaare@visitestonia.com

WWW:

Prnu beach 40 without a steeple is rich in unique hewn sculptures and frescos. In Laugu Village 41 there is a glassblowers workshop where you can watch masters at work and even try out their craft. Near Triigi Harbour 42 you will find the arboretum and spelling and ritual grounds of a famous Estonian healer Vigala Sass. From Triigi you can take a ferry to Hiiumaa; boat trips in the Strait of Vike Vin start from Orissaare Harbour 43 . The interesting ruins of Maasi Order Castle 44 are also worth a visit.

www.saaremaa.ee | www.kuressaare.ee www.muinas.ee/ecp/kaali/en www.saaremaamuuseum.ee | www.vigalasass.com

Summer capital Prnu

20

rnu 47 is a popular summer destination, a seaside resort, and a town with a lively cultural life. Its shady parks, beautiful sandy beach and quality restaurants, cafs, spas and nightclubs help you recharge your batteries whether you travel with a family or look for adventures on your own. For a change one can visit the local theatre, museums, numerous con-

Pulli Village. The holiday centre in Silla 54 on the Reiu River with a swimming spot and a small open air stage. In Mihkli there is a church 55 built in 1226, where the famous chronicler Latvian Henrik once served as a priest, and a protected oak forest. The Soontagana earthen stronghold 56 that lies on a high bog island; hiking trails and an observation tower nearby. A unique railway museum in Lavassaare 57 ; a hiking centre for bicyclists in Oidrema Manor 58 ; Nigula Nature Reserve with its centre in Vanajrve 59 .

must see destination in West Estonia is the island of Kihnu 60 attracting travellers with its virgin nature and tranquillity. In Kihnu the centuries-old traditions are still part of everyday life the local dialect, national costumes and handicrafts, dances and songs. The area of Kihnu culture has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The adventure begins as soon as you board a ferry or a fishing boat to the island.
Prnu Tourism Information Centre +372447 3000 e-mail parnu@visitestonia.com

info:

WWW:

www.parnu.ee | www.pernau.ee | www.nigula.ee

Things to do...

T
Kihnu girls

here are many picturesque seashores, varied landscapes as well as hiking

ne of the popular holiday spots is Lake Karujrv 45 . There are several beaches by the seaside and even more places with a sea-view for walking and

certs and exhibitions. A dedicated visitor to the summer capital Prnu is likely to have neither time nor mood to go to the countryside. Yet some landmarks of Estonian culture and plenty of sites of natural heritage in Prnu County are worth mentioning.

ndra 48 and its neighbourhood which was the home of a number of important figures in the history of Estonian culture; the Kurgja farm museum 49 ; Tstamaa 50 Islets Protection Area; Tori Stud Farm 51 and the part of Soomaa National Park belonging to Prnu County. Viisireiu Watermill 52 which is still in operation in Tali parish; the museum introducing the history of local wool industry in Sindi 53 , and not far from it the oldest, over 9,000 years old settlement site in Estonia in

and nature study routes in West Estonia. Here you can go bird or game watching or looking for rare orchids. A good overview of the surroundings is provided by marked bicycle routes, and bikes can be rented in lots of places. You can always stop on your way and have a look at how the locals live. Although Estonian country people are not always open and talkative right away, they are generally friendly and helpful.

hose who feel comfortable at sea can contact Saarte Loodusmatkad who organise sea canoe trips to the islands

WEST ESTONIA

of Vilsandi 61 and Abruka 46 and to the islets surrounding Hiiumaa. Many tourist farms rent out rowing and paddle boats for shorter trips and offer fishing as well as bird and game watching services. For those interested in military history there are special tours in Tahkuna 19 . Between Prnu and Ikla one will find beautiful beaches and wild berry forests.

ots of tourist farms offer horseback riding and carriage rides. In Tori 51 one can learn about the history of horse breeding in the Stud Farm founded in 1856. In Tihuse Riding Farm 62 in Hellamaa on the island of Muhu

Muhu Island has won international acclaim among gourmets. In Haapsalu you will find the Kuursaal summer caf and several unique restaurants in the old town. Kuressaare welcomes its visitors with dozens of cosy and exciting dining and entertainment spots. The restaurant in the Liilia Hotel in Kina 67 is considered to be the best in Hiiumaa. An interesting restaurant is in the former vodka distillery of Krgessaare 68 Manor.

the summer the streets and the open-air stages of Episcopal Castle are filled with folk music, opera and rock. The White Lady Days and the Medieval Haapsalu festivals add a bit of mystery with a flavour of history. The best souvenir is a hand-woven woollen kerchief or shawl with a complicated pattern which are known as Haapsalu shawls or miracles in lace. Modern art is displayed at the local Linnagalerii. aaremaa is famed for its opera days, held in the courtyard of Kuressaare Castle and for the Saaremaa Waltz Festival which has become a common friendly festivity of the two kindred peoples Estonians and Finns. The programme includes a competition for young talents attended by popular stars from both countries. The Kures saare Sea Days Festival is an enjoyable

n smaller rural villages one will find both quite ordinary dining places as well as taverns and cafs with unique and characteristic cuisine, interesting interiors and colour ful local visitors. In tourist farms you can order simple, organic farm food, in coastal villages smoked fish. Made in Saaremaa is a strong brand in Estonia, be it smoked ham, vodka, or spring water.

21

you can plough the field with a horse and do other farmwork. Families with children should certainly visit the Raja Farm mini-zoo 63 in Sigaste Village in Prnumaa where you can see and make friends with miniature pigs, cows, goats and other tiny animals.

olf players are welcome at the golf courses in Haapsalu 64 and Valge ranna 65 . Roosta 4 , Linnume 14 and Reiu 54 holiday centres offer a variety of activities. There are six spa hotels in Prnu 47 offering the best medical and recreational services. The best known types of treatment are mud baths, massage, laser and paraffin treatments, and salt and cold therapy. Other larger spas are Rtli, Meri and Saaremaa Valss in Kuressaare 32 and Fra Mare in Haapsalu 1 . The Port of Prnu also offers yacht rentals and pleasure trips on the sea.
WWW:
www.roosta.ee | www.sanatoorium.ee www.framare.ee | www.miniloomad.ee

Midsummer Celebrations in Saaremaa

... and places to go

here are many excellent places to eat in Prnu such as the luxurious Ammen de Villa with its French-Mediterranean cuisine, Postipoiss Tavern specialising in Slavic cuisine, the restaurant in Ranna hotell and Kuld Lvi Tavern 66 just outside of the town. Pdaste Manor 27 on

here are several ar t galleries in Prnu, including the Museum of New Art and the Estonian Lithographic Centre which introduces visitors to various exciting graphic techniques. Prnu also hosts the reputable International Documentary and Anthropology Film Festival. The David Oistrakh Festival in midsummer brings to Prnu top-class musicians and exciting new works from all over the world. There are also the Prnu Opera Days and Klaasprlimng Festival, as well as several other musical events that cater for many preferences and tastes. And last but not least, there is Endla Theatre with its interesting programme of plays.

family event focusing around sea-related themes and activities, visits to yachts and sailing trips, sea shanteys, and an openair market. While there are also many great events taking place in Hiiumaa, let it stay, first and foremost, a haven of peace and quiet!

he Estonian Railway Museum in Lavas saare 57 is the third-largest of its kind in Europe and impresses visitors with its extensive display of rolling stock, a functioning railway line and a museum train.

aapsalu is known for its Old Music Festival, Violin Festival and the Blues Festival in August. Throughout

WEST ESTONIA

There is also a railway museum in Haap salu 1 . The Mihkli Farm Museum 33 in Saaremaa and the Soera Farm Museum in Hiiumaa in Palade 69 give an insight into the everyday life of Estonian country folk in the past. In the latter one can go to a genuine smoke sauna, taste homemade beer and fish and listen to accordion music. In the Kurgja farm museum 49 in Prnumaa the land is farmed and animals bred in the traditional, centuries-old way.
WWW:
www.padaste.ee www.ammende.ee www.kuldlovi.ee www.operadays.ee www.ee/eesti-mr

The Republic of Estonia

in a nutshell:
Official name: the Republic of Estonia (Eesti Vabariik in Estonian). Area: 45,227 sq km (around 10% of the territory is comprised of 1,520 islands, 5% of inland waters, 48% of forests, 7% of bogs and 37% of farmland). Population: 1.36 million (68% Estonians, 26% Russians, 2% Ukrainians, 1% Belorussians and 1% Finns); 68% of population are urban inhabitants. Capital: Tallinn (397,000 inhabitants). Distances from Tallinn: Helsinki 85 km, Riga 307 km, St.Petersburg 395 km, Stockholm 405 km. Official language: Estonian. System of government: parliamentary democracy. Independence day: 24 February. National bird: barn swallow. National flower: cornflower.

Good to know
Time zone: Eastern European (GMT +02:00). Average temperatures: July between 16C and 20 C (max 30 C), February between 3 C and 7 C (www.weather.ee); the climate is variable; coastal areas are often windy and humid due to the proximity of the sea.

Currency and credit cards

The currency is the Estonian kroon (EEK) (1 EUR = 15.6466 EEK). Most shops, restaurants, hotels and service providers accept major international credit cards. Currency can be exchanged at banks and currency exchange bureaus (at Tallinn Passenger Port, Tallinn Airport, central railway station, hotels, supermarkets and elsewhere); traveller's cheques are cashed by banks (www.hansa.ee, www.eyp.ee, www.sampo.ee, etc). In towns there are many ATMs, but take along some cash when you go to the countryside. While Estonian restaurants include the service charge in their bills, you are welcome to add 10% as a tip.

Souvenir shops and other tourist attractions are generally open 7 days a week from 10 am to 6 pm. Most service personnel speak adequate English, Finnish and Russian.

Traffic and transportation

You can enter Estonia by air (www.tallinn-airport.ee), by road via Latvia or by ferry from Rostock (www.silja.ee), Helsinki or Stockholm (www.tallink.ee). For getting around you can rent a car (all major car rental companies are represented). There is regular bus service between all major towns and villages (www.bussireisid.ee). There are few bicycle routes in Estonian towns but their number is growing, as is the number of marked bicycle routes in the countryside. Neither pedestrians, bicyclists nor motorists should forget that sometimes the Estonian traffic culture leaves much to be desired. While the majority of motorists are polite to others, there are some who give driving a bad name. Fortunately, the situation is improving.

Shopping
Most shops are open from 9 am to 7 pm on workdays and for more limited hours on weekends. Supermarkets and shopping centres are open 7 days a week from 9 am to 9 pm (some until 11 pm).

Photos: Lembit Michelson, Ingmar Muusikus, Jri Seljamaa, Jarek Jepera, Malev Toom, Mark Raidpere, Priit Simson, Vano Allsalu

 There are a number of manned petrol stations (such as Statoil and Lukoil) and unmanned petrol stations (Neste, 123, Uno X) that operate 24 hours and accept both cash and credit cards. For 24-hour towing and car assistance dial 1888. Before setting out please check www.balticroads.net for road information.

Telephone and Internet

Estonia's area code is +372. To place an international call start by dialling 00. Public phones are operated by telephone cards (50 EEK or 100EEK) on sale in hotels, tourist information centres, post offices, newsstands, etc. Prepaid mobile phone cards (Simpel, Pop, Zen, Ultra, Smart) are on sale in petrol stations, newsstands, post offices, shopping centres and telephone stores. The largest mobile phone operator is EMT (www.emt.ee). There are over 700 public Internet access points in Estonia (regio.delfi.ee/ipunktid) and about 400 mostly free wireless Internet areas in hotels, pubs, libraries, petrol stations, parks and elsewhere (www.wifi.ee). For any inquiries (telephone numbers, addresses, public information, etc.) dial 1182 (Ekspress Hotline, www.1182.ee) or 1188 (Infoabi, www.1188.ee) for a fee-based information service. For emergencies, dial 110 for police or 112 for ambulance and fire department.

Traffic rules and regulations

Speed limit: 50 km/h in urban areas; 90 km/h on roads, unless otherwise signposted. Headlights must be turned on and safety belts fastened in both front and rear seats. Driving under the influence of alcohol or other intoxicating substances is punishable by law! There is paid parking in most town centres. Look for more information on special signs and parking metres. In the case of a traffic accident call the police. If there are no injuries and the drivers involved in the accident reach a consensus, they can prepare a written report on all circumstances and facts in two copies, without calling the police.

Layout: TANK; text: Vano Allsalu; designer: Kaido Knd. Data as of January 2005.

ENG

www.visitestonia.com e-mail: info@visitestonia.com www.investinestonia.com

Travel Information

www.riik.ee/en www.vm.ee/eng www.rmk.ee www.turismiweb.ee www.maaturism.ee www.regio.ee www.balticsworldwide.com www.inyourpocket.com/estonia/en

Culture

www.culture.ee www.festivals.ee www.estonica.org www.laulupidu.ee www.estoniantheatre.info www.estmusic.com www.kunstikeskus.ee www.estlit.ee www.piletilevi.ee