In the Shadow of Charlemagne

ust north of Madonna di Campiglio in the Val Rendena is the pass that connects the Rendena to the Val di Sole known as Campo Carlo Magno or Charlemagnes Field. At first, the north German Emperors name may seem out of place in this bucolic Tyrolean valley, but in the 8th Century, the Tyrol hosted a real-life game of thrones with the Val Rendena as one of the center stages.

The last of the Lombard kings, Desiderius, tried to maintain control by becoming the Papacys official protector and married his daughter, Desiderata, to Charlemagne. Thinking this secured his northern frontier, Desiderius warred against the new pope, Adrian I, in the south. After the death of Charlemagnes brother Carloman, the widow fled to the Kingdom of the Lombards as Charlemagne seized his lands. In response to Desiderius decision to protect Carlomans widow, Charlemagne rejected his marriage to Desiderata. At the same time, conflict between the Lombards and the Papacy precipitating open war between the Lombards and the Franks.

After the Barbarian Invasions and the fall of Rome, most of Western Europe lay as a collection of warring kingdoms ruled by various Barbarian Tribes. The Merovingian Dynasty of the Franks established itself in the area that is now present day France and Germany. Meanwhile, the Lombards, who give their name to modern day Lombardy, took advantage of the exhausted Byzantine and Ostrogoths who had fought each other to a stand still in Northern Italy to invade. They managed to dominate the Italian peninsula until the late 8th century through deft diplomacy and military campaigns against the Papacy.

Charlemagne invaded Italy and laid siege to the Lombard capital of Pavia, south of Milan, in 774. However, Desiderius son was raising a new army in Verona to break the siege. Keeping a force to maintain the siege of Pavia, Charlemagne lead a force north through the Trentino from Bergamo through the Val Camonica. Next, he lead his host through the Val di Sole and south through the Val Rendena, stopping at Campiglio, Carisolo and Pelugo as shown in the map at the lower left. Although the there are no documents to further detail his travels, it is likely that he continued down through the valley through Tione, crossing into the Giudicarie through Passo Durone and approached Verona through Riva and the coast of Lake Garda. Charlemagne easily dispatched the Veronese force before completing the siege of Pavia. He crowned himself King of the Lombards before continuing his military campaigns in Saxony, Spain and Bavaria. Perhaps no person since the Roman Empire did as much to unite Europe into one political unit and to this day, Charlemagne is called the first European.

However, Charlemagnes impact and influence on the Rendena is well-documented. Legend tells of miraculous works and healings by Charlemagne as he passed through the valley. In addition to Campo Carlo Magno, the memory of Charlemagnes passage is shown in the Bascheni frescoes in San Stefano in Carisolo known as the Privilege of San Stefano (A complete view of the mural can be seen in this issues article on San Stefano). Below the fresco is the text of the original document of Charlemagnes grant to the local bishops. The text describes the conversions of the local pagans to Christianity and the construction of many churches

including Carisolos San Stefano. In the image below from the Bascheni Fresco, Charlemagne (left) is shown approvingly witnessing the baptism of a pagan attended by the Pope and several bishops. In addition, to Charlemagnes Privilege -- which echoes the grants that would legitimize the creation of the Papal States in central Italy -- many Lombard nobles, seeing Charlemagnes certain victory, donated their lands to church authorities, including many of the valleys along the path leading to the Val di Sole and the Val Rendena. Charlemagnes influence can also be seen in the art and

architecture of region. One of the most distinctive features is the octagonal dome that can be seen in such buildings such as Trentos Saint Vigilius Cathedral (Duomo). In addition to buildings in Germany, many similar buildings can be seen in Bergamo, Brescia and other stops along his journey through the Trentino.

Charlemagne would return to the Rendena on his path to his coronation as the Holy Roman Emperor by Pope Leo III (the Great) on Christmas Day, 800 AD. Fittingly, Pope Leo is often thought to be the one responsible for the December celebration of Christmas. Written by Christian Brunelli

The Carnival Project

he Museo of San Michele allAdige is at the forefront in the project Carnival Kin of Europe. Its objective is to research the commonalities of Carnivals throughout Europe regarding the costumes, personalities, and the sequence of fear, the dance of the spouses, the satirical masks, the appearance of the plow as a wish for a good harvest and the bonfire, to burn a puppet that representing the Carnival. Go to view images, film clips and documents www.carivalkingofeurope.it (the site is in English). Displayed below are some examples of the masks made and used in the Trentino and on display at the Museo degli Usi e Costumi della Gente Trentina