Professional Documents
Culture Documents
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THE IMPERIAL
Macrame Lace
Book.
FLAX THREADS.
BARBOUR BROTHERS,
No. 134
CHURCH
STREET,
NEW
YORK.
y
(P
\\ c.
.jMM,j^:
T .CSC
W. MARTIN,
Printer, 47
Murray
Street, N. Y.
1877.
<^
i
f'
r"?
tiie "i'ef.r
Wl',
INTM OB UCTION
iM
Macrame
Lace,
we
are acting
who
interesting study.
times,
is
The
known
this
in
ancient
its
now
so
much
favor that
it
way
and we take
method of
it
introducing
it
to
remarkable that
this
in spile of its
ancient
until
unknown
in this countrv,
it.
we had
Its history in
goes back
to a very early
Knotted threads
the most
may be
Tagliente and
II
We
art is
beauiiful
all
will
true
BARBOUR BROTHERS,
134 Church
St.,
Franklin
St.,
Boston,
119 Pine
San Francisco.
HILDEN MILLS,
Litibuni, Ireland.
BARBOUR FLAX
SP'G CO.
Pater sov, y. J.
TRADE MARK.
(From the
A TRIUMPH
BARBOUR FLAX SPINNING
(BARBOUR BROTHERS.)
CO,
The Pliiladelpliia Exhilntion will long be looked upon as the greatest study ever offered to the world. It would seem that the United States desired to unite, in this manifestation of the lirst centenary of their existence, everything relating to
industrial genius
and
scientific
to the
l>lete
it
tion of both
American and foreign visitors. The French Government, fully alive to this pi'ogress and tlie benefit which might result to our industry by a study of
the different branches of manufacture, sent index^endently of the delegation of intelligent workmen, and their most experi-
For some years j^ast our European markets have suffered from a decreased exportation to the United States, and this, naturally, has aroused the attention of our French Government.
Our celebrated
many
of
whose observations relating to spinning and weaving in this country we have already reported, expresses himself in the following terms regarding the Linen Threads exhibited by the house of Messrs. Bakbour Brothers, of 134 Church Street, New York.
{Translated frotn the Reports for the French Government.)
DK MONTAtSVILLK AND E. StEBNHEIH Gentlkmen : You request of me informatlou concerniug those products whose technical value merits to be sigualized iu your work of reports to our Government.
MeSSl-S.
:
On examining the threads and yarns exhibited by Messrs. Barbour Brothers, of New York, the reduction of our exports iu these fabrics is explained to me. The perfection in the regularity of tlieir threads is unapproachable, in whatever color they may be dyed. The raw material used by them Is the best ?:uropean flax, and even in those colors in which the chemical nature of the coloring matter often deteriorates the textile fibre, I have found an extreme reslstence of tension. Wc do not make a better article either in Ireland, or in Scotland, or in France.
Please to receive
my sincere,
etc.
(Signed,)
LOl'IS
CHATEL.
Member
of the
It was in consequence of this favorable report that we desired to inform ourselves of the importance of this establish-
ment. But, before entering into details, let us take a general view of this industry and of the causes of its development in
this country.
in the transformation
of textile substances into thread or woven fabrics constitute one of the most important revenues of modern times. For a great number of years, and up to a recent period, they following a progressive development side by side with other manufacturing productions of prime necessity. Less than fifty years ago * the amount of such goods required in the United States could be easily ascertained in advance, since the result was dependent on a population, the consumption by whom was, we may almost say, foreseen, and on means of manufacture which were well ascertained and limited. Since that time these conditions have been materially altered, for motive powers, called into being by the inventive genius of Americans, have been produced. For the present we will confine ourselves to those causes which have reference solely to the progress made in the manufacture of linen threads for shoemakers and other purposes. We will cite the invention of the sewing machine, which, among its innumerable applications, is to-day the great agent in the rapid manufac-
ture of boots and shoes, and in other work of a similar nature. These machines necessitate the use of a thread which Is not only strong, but is above all, even in quality. Hence the development of the industry of linen threads, of which the Messrs. Barbour Brothers are the most important and the best manufacturers in the United States. The name of Barbour is one of the oldest and best known in the linen trade of Belfast, Ireland. It was in 1864, that
Messrs. Barbour Brothers laid the first foundation of their establishment in the United States, which now occupies several acres of ground at Paterson, New Jersey, where they have several buildings, giving employment to six hundred work people. But those having become insufficient, they have now in progress of construction, and nearly finished, additional works on a larger scale, and w^hen these are completed
they will employ one thousand work people. This establishment, as a whole, presents a mechanical com-
pleteness wliicli is unrivalled. The spinning rooms contain ten tlionsand spindles. The machinery is driven by an engine
of five
large
hundred horse power. The work rooms, which are and well ventilated, are constructed in accordance with
in view of the large number of here congregated. This essential point reflects peoi^le gi'eat credit on the principals of this establishment. Not only have they had every consideration for the comfort of their employees, but the wages are, relatively higher than those paid to our work people in Europe. These gentlemen buy their raw material in Ireland, France, Belgium and Germany. Tlie first preparations which flax and hemp undergo are partly agricultural and partly manufacturing; but they are imported here in bales, ready for spinning. The orders for these linen threads, which are received, from all x^arts of the United States, Mexico, China and elsewhere, are all transmitted to the offices of these gentlemen in
work
Church
Street,
New York.
Barbour Brothers
will send
They
Avill
and
of
of
by the jury
DE MONTAi:XVILLE
AIS^D E.
StERNHEIM.
Originators of the visits to the works and factories on behalf of the Official Delegation of "Workmen from the French
Government.
=*S^?== ^^^isJ^^ttD
'S^j?=?:52:ES?'^^^^^>::>'='
oblong cushion
is
required,
These look
either
prettiest
when made
some bright
color,
made
of silk or
Cashmere.
sizes of
The cushion
at
rests
on a small
table.
is
Two
pin-
German
The
larger size
for
and the
small ones are used for putting between the threads on the top line
to
to the cushion.
The
straight lines
may
but
if
with a weaver's
the exact size
those,
for
given with
each pattern
but
bit
when
the
required
is
length
sary,
is
longer than
necesthe
fringe
so
threads shorter by
much.
The
coarse Italian
for furniture,
twine
used
in
making the
lace>
when intended
and the
finer
The
also
lace
is
adapted
to
this
latter purpose.
silk,
The
in
lace
looks
when made
of Maltese
either
black or bright
The
lace
is
made by
to
One thread
single
is
is
and each
thread
knotted twice on
the leader
is
it.
When
is
a leaf
is
worked from
is
right to
left,
held
in the left
worked from
left to right,
the leader
Pin on as
many
In
commencing
pattern,
fasten the
the top line as follows :--Pass the two ends of each thread under
the line, pointing them up, then draw them back through the loop,
repeat to the end of the cushion then put in a pin between every
line,
hold
it
firmly
left
in
the right
to
it
with the
hand.
The
are always
worked
it
in
this
way.
its
should be worked
tightly, as
adds much to
No.
A,
Take two
threads,
it
1.
Single
Chain.
in
the left
;
other thread on to
with the
left.
JRepeat.
No.
1.
^^^B
B,
This
is
DomMe Chain.
same way
as the single chain, but with four
made
in
the
C.
Take
the
first
Open Chain,
with the
four threads
commence
two
hold
of these
in tie right
left
hand
as leader,
on
to
it
with the
hand,
left
same thread
as before twice
first
on
to
it,
in the left
;
leader twice on to
at
the
left
side twice
on
to
it,
leaving a
up
tight.*
with the
left
hand.
Then
take
at
hold the
under one
in the right
on
to
it
leader to the
the leader
to
left
still
it
hand, and
in the left
Hold
at the left
side twice on
It
would be well
making
this
is
always passed into the other hand, and the thread knotted
twice on to
It.
6
knot the remaining thread
before.
at the left side
on to
the
it,
leaving a loop as
Then
back
to
right hand,
and knot
1>,
Take
Solomon^ s Knots,,
two centre ones straight; pass the
loosely over these.
first
thread at
side, pass
side
Take
the
thread
at
right
over the
at left side
it
draw
it
up
tight.
Then
over
up tight
to
meet the
first
part of the
E,Maised
The Raised
straight
Picoi.
Take
the
two
from each
leaf
hold
to to
the
and make
six
Solomon's knots on
them
pass
the two
centre threads
down through
once
it
at
No.
2.
No.
2.
long.)
Pin on the straight lines in the usual way, then fasten on the
threads to the top
line,
after
line,
and
with the
left
hand.
Make
row of
under the two centre ones, and draw it up tight. Then pass
left
the right thread over the tAai centre ones, pass the
this,
thread over
at the right
side,
under the two centre ones, and up through the loop draw it up tight to meet the first part of the knot.
Repeat
in
to
Then
line,
hold
it
the right
with the
left.
First
Oval. *Take
eight threads
in
the left
to
it
hand
as
leader,
;
and
then
first of these in the right hand and knot the three threads on to it with the left hand; then take the two centre threads from each side and make a Solo-
mon's knot
first
it
leader, hold
;
it
in the right
hand, and
it
with the
right
hand.
Then
on
to
it
with the
8
right side, hold
it
in the left
to it;
then
left side,
in
and knot
with the
hand.
line,
Repeat from
hold
the
it
Then
in
the
with
left
hand.
Repeat
this to the
Then
in the left
oval on to
it
hold
in
Then make
Solomon's knot
in the
left
middle with the four centre threads; then take the leader at the
side,
hold
;
it
in the right
it
with
the
left
hold
it
in
the
left
hand^
to
it
Repeat
until there
then
make
and
it
comes
gives
to one.
it
If preferred,
the fringe
a rich effect.--See
No. 4 Pattern.
No,
3.
in the usual
way,
after
which fasten
on-
the threads thus :--Pass the tw^o ends of each thread under the top
line,
pointing them up, then bring them through the loop, then loosen
it
in
on
;o
it
with the
left
hand.
Then
hold the
first in.
No.
3.
the
left
;
to
it
hand
from each
with the
left
hand
repeat
to
end of cushion.
it
Then
loosen
the
in the
right
thread twice on to
it
with the
left
hand.
* Take the
six threads^
five
hold the
first
thread
left
:
in
the right
hand
as leader,
;
knot the
threads
on
to
it
with the
then
make
left
the
second
row of the
leaf thus
Hold the
first
thread
at the
side again in
it
on
to
with the
hand
then take the next six threads, hold the sixth thread in the
as leader,
hand
five
threads twice on to
it
make
threads on to
left
it
leader in the
to
it
;
leaf twice
on
then
make
the
same leader
still
in the left
then
take
first
of these (that
leaf,
the
left
side one) in
the right
with the
left
hand
second
the
line
then
loosen
fourth
in the usual
way.
them
in
into
two
take the
first
thread
left
it
the right
Row of Leaf
with the
hand. Second
in
the
first
thread again,
hold
the right
left
10
next four threads, hold the fourth thread as leader in the feft hand, and knot each of the three threads on to it with the right. Make
the second row of the leaf in the same
way
still
in
the
first
left
hand, and join the two leaves by knotting the leader of the Repeat from * six times, then reduce it one leaf twice on to it.
in each
row
until the
point
is
point
thread at the
left
side,
hold
it
in the
it
right
hand
and
to
down
scollop
continuous line;
it
scollop, hold
to
it
in the left
;
tight
first
thread
again at the
first
side
line,
thread
in the
left
The
after
leader
top,
which the
down
on the wrong
close.
No.
4.
Commence by
first line.
then loosen
to
it
with the
left
hand.
No.
i.
11
Then make
as before.
a row of Solomon's
to
it
Then
make
with them.
Repeat
Then loosen
with the
first
the
left
hand
of these in
at the top,
;
with the
left
left
Repeat
same
as last.
Then
first in
the right
hand
leaf of
hand
as leader,
and make a
leaf,
two rows
and
with them
make
row of
six
Solomon's knots
centre threads- of these four between the two leaves, pointing them
Then
in
the
hand
as leader,
hand, to
make
it
hand
as leader,
and make
make
three
Repeat
to the
end of cushion.
it,
Loosen the
fifth line,
thread twice on to
as
before.
Take
four threads,
make
three
Repeat
to the
end of cushion.
it
Loosen
as before; then
;
make
then loosen
as before.
12
To finish
at
last line
pinned on
both ends
up under the
this loop,
draw
them up
tight, to
one
The
Pass
now be
in front,,
them firmly
wrong
side,
No.
(Threads
for this
o.
in
the
usual
working as described
in the
former patterns.
it
Loosen end of
the second line, and knot each thread twice on to the cushion.
to the
Take the
first
first
hand
line,
and knot
it
as usual.
Take
twice on to
with the
left
first
hand, and knot the tburth thread twice over them with the right
to the next four threads:
it it
then take
the
first
of
in the right
threads twice on to
leaves are
with the
left
The
made
in the
same way.
No.
5.
liiipi qiBHiiiPiiiiiiiiJiimiiip i
ff
igijigii
14
knotted sixteen times, increase two
begin
at the left side,
in
then
of
the right
hand
as
leader,-
and knot
first
it
also knot
first
threads,
repeat this
the
long rows
then make
according to the
engravings.
hand
The
last
make
a knotted fringe.
No.
6.
long.)
working on
hold
it
in the right
first
it.
Take the
;
four threads,
make
them
repeat to
Take
into
the fourth *
parts,
two
make
chains with
threads,
and
make
six
left
Take
the
first
thread at the
hold
it
in the right
hand
as leader, and|[knot
eleven threads on
No.
6.
15
to
it
;
left
on
to
the
right hand,
with the
left,
also
to
the
the
two
left
threads of the
single chain.
pass
to
the
it
leader
back
left,
with the
be knotted in
left
the
hand,
and
two threads.
Commence
to
it
at the
hold
in the left
Then
pass the
on
to
it
with the
single chain.
of single chain.
Then
pass
second chain
pass
the
to
it
same leader
with the
to
;
left
Take
the
two threads
at
each end of the centre pattern, and make six single chains on each.
eight middle
threads;
make
;
a Solomon's knot under these, taking two threads from each knot
Solomon's knot
at
each
side,
in the centre,
and
And now, having clearly described the pattern so far, the may be easily copied from the engraving by any worker who
followed the directions to this stage.
rest
has
16
The
scollop being
composed of
leaves,
with
verj-
little
,
variety,
it
would be only a
repetition
of
any
of
the
former patterns.
No.
7.
in
the usual
way,
after
the second
to
it
hold
the
it
in
the
left.
Take
ones
in
the
Repeat
to
the
end
of cushion.
end of cushion.
Then loosen
hold
it
in the
right hand,
left
first
hand.
four,
Take
eight threads,
make
in
a Solomon's knot
left
the
hand
as
leader,
with
the
right
make
take the
four,
next eight
take the
lI.
?ads,
make
then
first
thread, hold
as leader
in
it
the
right
with the
a
hand.
;
Then
make
first
make
second row
After
this,
then
take the
thread at the
left side,
hold
it
in the right
it
hand
as
leader,
and knot
Repeat
it
with the
left
hand.
second
line.
Then
in
No.
7.
17
the
left
hand
as leader,
to
it.
Repeat
Take
last
four threads,
make
a Solomon's
four threads.
Then
of double chain.
to
the
end
Then
in the right
hand
take
the
with the
left
hand.
Then
to
make
a Solomon's knot.
line,
Repeat
end of cushion.
threads, hold the
Loosen the
fifth
hold
with
it
in
to
it
the
left.
Take
six
five
the right
left.
hand
as leader,
threads on to
it
with the
Take
threads on to
;
it
Repeat
two more
lines
then
make
hold
it
in the left
hand, and
knot the
five
threads on to
it.
lines.
Take
in the right
hand, and
knot the
five
;
threads on to
it
with the
left
hand.
more
lines
make
a row of
open chain
four threads.
the sixth
to
it.
Repeat from
hold
it
* to the
end of cushion.
Then
loosen
line,
in left
Take
the
first
four threads,
;
make
a Solomon's knot.
line,
Repeat
to
the end
of cushion
hold
it
in the right
The next
to finish off
part of the
made
at
first,
and
keep the
last
pinned on
up under the
through
line in
this loop,
draw them up
18
one at the top
line
;
the last two lines, pass these threads to the back one at each side of the knot, tie the two threads firmly together at the back, sew them neatly down on the wrong side, repeat to the end of cushion, and cut off the threads close.
No.
8.
then fasten on
so: Take
a thread
of
it
under the
line,
pointing them up, and then bring them down Loosen the second leader by taking out the pin
it
hold
in the
right
twice on to
with them
as follows
it
with the
left
hand.
Take
four threads,
and
make
made
: Take
over the
first
thread, under
;
left side
draw
it
up
it
ones loosely
ones,
take the
left
thread, pass
it
over
at the right
side,
draw
up
tight
to
meet the
Repeat
to
Then
hold
the
loosen the third line by taking out the pin at the right
it
in
right hand,
on
to
it
with
left
hand.
first
To make
in the right
hold the
one
No.
7.
19
of the seven threads twice on to
first
it
with the
left
hand.
Take the
it
in the right
to
it
Take
Take
hold
it
in the
as before.
Then
leaf,
make
a raised Picot, so
Take the
six
then pass
the two centre threads between the two leaves, pointing them
down
then knot each of these threads on the two remaining ones, to fasten
them
it
in the left
it
take
in the left
seven threads on to
it,
as before.
it
Then
make
the fourth
leaf,
hold
it
in the right
left
with the
hand
in the right
on
to
it,
as before.
star.
Repeat
the
right
to
end of
cushion.
hold
left
in
hand, and
with the
hand.
is
The
when
Scollop.
As the
scollop
made
;
of these
to
finish
it
stars,
it
is
and
the scollop
in the right
first
thread, hold
it
;
but
when
the
stars
this
makes the
pletely
;
straight
line
more com-
thread
'at
hold
it
in the left
left
Repeat
then at the
it
side; then take the ninth thread at the left side, hold
it
in the right
with the
left
hand.
20
Repeat
at the right side.
Then
it
in the right
left
with the
hand.
Repeat
the scollop.
No.
(Threads for
this Pattern
9.
long.i
lines,
for
working on
the
usual
way
second
at the
in the
left
right hand,
and
knot
with
four
to
the
hand.
Take the
first
threads,
Solomon's knots.
the
first
first
Repeat
;
Then
take
four threads
and knot
the
hold
it;
it
in the
left
four on to
in the right
it
hold
the second
four
onto
with the
it
hand
then
take
the third
in the left
four on to
the right
it;
thread of the
hold
in
to
it
in the
left
this
Repeat
to the
end of cushion.
in
The
is
each row,
until only
No.
8.
No. 10.
21
No. 10.
(Threads for this Pattern two yards three inches long.^
line.
Loosen
the second line at the right side by taking out the pin which conf.nes
it
to the
in the right
with the
left;
take the
first
Repeat
to
the
end of cushion.
the left
;
Then take
the
first
first in
hand and
then take
them
in the left
fourth
over
hand.
Repeat
to the
end of cushion.
Then make
hold
it
with the
left;;
first
four threads,
first first
it
Solomon's knot.
Repeat
to
Take
the
two threads and make four single chain, asknot the fth re ad straight in the left hand,
with the
it
other thread on to
left
hold
hold this in the right hand, and knot the other on with the
with every two take the next two threads, do the same, and repeat
threads to the end of cushion; then miss the with the next four threads
first
make
a Solomon's knot.
it
Repeat
to the
end.
Then loosen
in the right
hand and
first
with the
left.
For the
leaf
22
take six threads
others,
left
;
hold the
first
threads twice on to
it
with the
hand
first
as before in the
it
right hand,
left.
threads twice on to
with the
Repeat
:
first leaf.
For the
second leaf
Take
left
hand over
Re-
more
times.
Then
divide the twelve threads, and hold the sixth thread in the
hand,
five
;
threads on to
it
Rethread
and
Take the
left.
first
hold
it
in
each of the
times more
of cushion
;
five
;
threads twice on to
it
with the
Repeat three
to the
of four leaves.
Repeat
right
end
fifth line,
it
hold
it
in the
hand, and
the
first
with the
left.
Then
to
take
make
a Solomon's knot.
Repeat
the
end.
Then
This
is
made same
as single,
holding two
sixth
to
it
Then loosen
first in
the
line
hold
the
it
with
left
right
left.
hand,
with
Repeat
take
first
large leaf.
left
Then
the
with
the right.
more.
threads,
leaf.
Then
Picot
the
is
four
centre
and
witli tliem
i)
;
make
divide
a raised
described in
Pattern No.
then
these
23
parts;
hold
the
twelfth
thread
in
it
the
left
Repeat three
first
and
for
the fourth
leaf
Hold
the
thread
of
with the
left.
hold
the
it
in the right
with
left.
To Make
it
six
threads
hold the
first
thread in the right hand, and knot the other five threads twice on to
with the
left.
first leaf.
Then
hold
the
thread in
the
the
left
threads on to
with
right
hand.
by holding one
straight,
then take
each of the
five
threads twice on to
to
form the
leaf.
Then
the
right.
When
leaf.
in the left
Repeat
that
first
three times
more
in
form the
Then
threads
the
it
were used
leaf of the
scollop; hold
thread twice on to
the
leaf.
it.
with
the
for
Then
join
till
Repeat
the
completed.
24
No.
11.
I
(Threads for this Pattern one yard and twenty-seven inches ong.)
Pin on
the
lines to the
cushion
in
the usual
hold
it
in the right
;
with the
take the
first
left
first
do
the
;
same.
then
with
the
Then *
with
the
make
a Solomon's
knot
the
other
Then
left
take
next four
Then
to
make
draw
make
thread,
up close
let
it
to
in the
come
same
take
to
work
thread
make
four
the
three
Then
these four threads, and the two threads of the single chain
it,
close
six threads
make
a Solomon's
knot
then
take the
first
first
single chain,
;
and
four of these threads, hold three of them in the right hand, and
first
knot the
left
hand
then
make
make
a small Picot
after
knots with
those,
each
knot
being the
first
part
of
This makes a
six
twist.
Then take
in
the
next four
and
witli
them make
knots
eight
the
same way.
same.
Take
the next
four threads
and make
knots of the
Then
No. 11.
25
take these twelve threads, hold the ten centre threads together,
and
make
Then
with
the
two outside
eight
threads
take the
first
make
knots same as
before.
Take
make
six knots
Take
the next
four threads,
make
same knots.
line,
end of cushion.
hold
in the
right
hand,
with the
left.
and do the
;
same.
Then
first
take the
first
make
miss
a Solomon's knot
six single chain
;
take the
make
four
chain
the next two threads, and with the next four threads
make
a Solo-
mon's knot.
Then
with them
a small
make
then
Picot at each
then
make
and
Then
take these
it,
four threads, and the two threads of the single chain close to
make
a Solomon's knot.
Then
make
a Solomon's knot
first
;
Then
single chain,
and two
make
then
a Solomon's
again,
knot
then
leave out
a Solomon's
knot
make
Picot
at
each
side
then
;
make
were
three
make
then take
two
it,
threads
left at
then
make another
;
then a small
take
then
then
four
make
Solomon's knot
then take
the
first
two of these
26
threads,
make
then
make
next to
two threads
four threads
make
six
single chain
threads close
to
them,
make
a Solomon's knot
left side,
two,
and
six
single
chain
two
then
make
a Solomon's knot
with
the four
then take two of these threads, and two from the knot at
side of them,
then
then
make
side;
;
make make
then
a
then
make
the
left
side;
then
make
the
then
make
a Solomon's
knot with
first
two threads
make
at
six
chain,
right
;
and
then
make
the
make
close
Solomon's
Take
;
the
first
chain
them
at
make
a Solomon's knot.
;
fifth line
made
to
the end of cushion, loosen the sixth line, and knot each thread twice
on
to
it.
line
To
No. 12.
on
at
both ends.
;
draw them up
tight, to
at the
top line.
lines
The two
threads will
now be
last
;
tie
them
to the
work on
end of
to
the
No.
{Threads
for this
12.
long.!
Pin on the
for
working on
* Take the the
first
to the
top line.
hold
it
in the
with the
left
hand.
three threads
with the
left
little
loop, so
;
last knot,
being made
threads
;
then
more
knots.
Take
next three
same
Then
to join them,
:
hold two
in
the right
thread
Then
hold two in
hand,
knot the
them with
28
the middle.
Then
make
hold the
with the
first
thread
it
left.
;
Re-
peat again to
leaf.
Take Hold
hold the
it
fourth thread in the left hand, knot the three threads over
right hand.
with the
the
left
Repeat again.
still
in
it
side
on
to
with the
;
Repeat again.
Then
hold
it
the
first
threads
to
on to
with the
cushion.
hand.
Repeat again.
line,
Repeat from *
it
the
end of
hold
in the right
thread twice on to
with the
left
hand.
Miss the
chain
two threads;
the
six
make
;
three single
take
next
single
two,
make
;
four
single
chain
take the
next two,
chain
will
make
;
chain
make
eight single
take
the
next
There
it
now be twelve
hand, and knot hand.
;
Take
the
first
thread
hold
in the right
it
with the
left
Repeat
hold the
Take
the
first
four of these
threads
;
fourth in the
the present.
single chain.
Take Take
make
it
eight
in
hold
the
on
to
it
with
the
left.
;
This part
miss the
is left
for the
;
present.
Take up
the
next six
single
threads
first
two
make
;
three
chain
first
make
single
it
chain
then
take
the
in the
left.
right
each of the
rows.
three
threads on to
it
with the
;
Take
single
threads
make
five
chain
make
more
chain
with
Take
t\\o
29
threads
;
in the left
five
threads on to
with the
left.
Repeat
Having described
continue, as
this stage
it it
this
in
detail
so
far,
it
is
not necessary to
thing,
and
at
the worker.
The
best thing
is
now
hold
it
in
with the
left
hand.
To.
will
Make
the Scollop.
Take
;
Count
off
off eighteen
threads
this
Count
eighteen
threads
at
for
the
left
the
make
six single
chain
left side,
make
as
left
right
hand
the
five
threads on to
twice with
hand.
Then with
from the
time holding
it
with the
hand
twice.
Then
there
be twelve threads,
make
left
Then
to
take up the
at
the
first
side
with
the
left
the
right
hand
as leader,
for
and knot
on
to
it
with
the
left.
Repeat
Then
When
the third
row
at
30
the
left
side
hold the
it
;
first in
the
right
at
hand,
the
knot
right
to
three
side
;
threads
take four
;
threads
hold the
left
it
hand; join
in the
at left side.
Repeat
at
the middle.
;
Take
first
the
first
the the
right
left
;
hand
knot the
this
will
form a thick
Do
two of these, and make make ten with the other two; do the same at Then commence at the top of the scollop again left
;
six single
chain
the
with
the
next two
make
with
next two.
Then
hand
;
take
hold the
it
first
knot
with
the
hand.
more rows.
side ones
;
Then
be the outfirst
the
right
with the
left
;
the
as
Take one of
these threads
in
;
the
right
left
hand
with the
left;
it
hand then
it
hold
in
the
hand
hand
with the
left.
it
Then
in the
four threads.
thread, hold
left,
with the
taking in
first
the
first
;
chain.
Repeat
for
Miss the
right
in
four
threads
in the
hand
knot each
thread twice on to
chain.
with
the
left,
taking
Repeat
for tvvo
more rows.
it
Miss the
four threads
in the right
hand, knot
each
thread
with the
left
hand, taking
Repeat
No. 13.
31
for
Miss the
first
four
threads
take
up the next
it
thread, hold
in the right
with
the
left
hand.
Repeat
Leave out
and with the other four make a strand, so : Hold three threads in the right hand and knot the first one eight then take the first four threads that were times over it with the left
;
left
first in
twice on to
with the
;
left
hand.
Repeat
for
This
were
left
Take
the
first
leaf,
hold three of
first
thread
in
the
Then
first
and the
in the left
hand
and knot
the
first
on
to
left
then
knot on
the
the
same thread
Repeat
centre.
worked
in.
Do
and
exactly
to finish
side, let
the
it
same thing
at the right
hand
side of
left,
the
scollop,
threads
tnem
cross one over the other, and knot one thread neatly over
tight,
them
drawing very
and cut
off the
fasten
No. 13.
(Threads for this Pattern one yard and four inches long.)
in
the
usual
way
to the cushion
then
on
Then
loosen the
32
second
line at the right side,
it
hold
left.
it
in the right
thread twice on to
in the left
with the
Take
three threads
hold two
right.
Repeat
end of cushion.
;
thread,
hold the
two
in
the
left
hand,
to the
right.
Repeat
right
end of cushion.
line,
hold
left
it
in
the
hand,
first
with the
hand.
left
Take
the
with
the
leader to the right hand, knot the threads on with the leader back to the
left
pass
the
This
will
make
four twists.
;
Take
threads,
make
three
;
twists in the
same way
make two
twists
thread in the
it
left
hand,
and knot
Repeat
all
for another
;
row; leave
Take
the
next
four threads
right hand,
knot each of
leader
four
Repeat
to
make
four
of
twists.
Then
the
take
threads at the
threads,
side,
left side,
make
a twist
three; take
next four
left
make
of three
leave this.
Commence
and
at
with
them make
of three
;
make
a twist
take
make
;
back
hold
were missed
take
the
first
of these,
it
in the right
left.
fifteen threads
line.
each twice on to
with the
Repeat
second
.4
No. 14.
iimnt miiim im
w/
\\u
VNi;
v^/
v\(/
\w; \^;
'VVV\fVW^/v\
33
of these
at the right side,
;
twist of three
same
it
the ^hand,
hand
side
on
to
it
hold
it
in the right
left
;
hand, and
with the
the
side,
from each
side,
hold eight in
diamond, and
above
;
for
the
reversing them.
it
Repeat
to the
end of cushion.
Then
loosen
in the right
on
to
it
with the
it
left.
Repeat from *;
fifth
it
line,
hold
and knot
with the
left.
six threads,
a running knot.
No. 14.
(Threads for this Pattern one yard
long.)
Pin the
fasten
straight lines
for
on
to the
then
on the threads
line,
working
to the
Then
the
loosen the
second
to
it
hold
left.
it
in the right
with the
;
Repeat
for
another row.
Take
first
two
threads
make
first
Repeat
to
the end
of cushion.
single
;
Miss the
chain.
make two
Repeat
four
end of cushion.
;
Take
the
first
first
two threads
make
single
chain
repeat.
Miss the
34
the next two threads
make two
;
chain.
Repeat
to the
end of cushion.
to
Take
the
first
two threads
first
make
four chain.
the
Repeat
end of
;
cushion.
Miss the
;
thread
with
next two
threads
make
;
two chain
Repeat
to
end of cushion.
to
in
Take
the
first
two threads
make
four chain.
Repeat
it
end of cushion.
the
right hand,
line,
twice oyer
it
straight
it
hold
the
in
the right
for the
knot,,
line.
with
left;
and
take
four
threads and
with
draw
it
up
to
straight
;
Repeat
end of cushion.
first
threads
to
make a
Repeat
end of cushion*
of knots.
fringe,
and
is
No.
IS.
(Threads for this Pattern one yard and twenty-seven inches long,)
the
usual
way, and
working on
ond
line,
hold
first
it
in the right
thread
chain.
on
it.
Take
end.
the
four threads;
Repeat
to the
Then
hold
left
it
in
the
right
hand, knot
;
with the
hand.
with the
left
hand
in the left
hand.
No. 15.
35
knot three on to
in the right
it
take the
to
it
first
thread, hold
left.
it
hand
with the
Repeat
five rows to each leaf; then take the at each side, until there are knot, repeat to the end of cushion. six threads, make a Solomon's
line,
hold
left.
it
in
with the
Take
make
Take
Take hand, knot the three threads twice over it. the of each knot hand, left the the next four, hold the fourth in rows. repeat for two more nine threads over it with the right four chain make three Make threads. first two of these
thread in the
;
Take
the
chain with
all
Take
four threads;
Solomon's knot; take two of these threads, other two threads. make four single chain; do the same with the hold it in the left hand, knot first of these four threads
make
Take
the
it
hand
threads, hold
right
it
in the
with the
six single
first
chain
make
three
four threads,
:
make
with tne
next four
twelve threads, and threads leave this for the present. Take up knot make four sinwith the last four of them make a Solomon's
;
two of
these
threads
take
of
of the three threads them, hold the first in the right hand, knot each hold the first on to it with the left take the next four of them, the left it with thread in the right hand, knot nine threads on to make threads, two of these repeat for two more rows take the first
; ;
Do
the
six threads.
Take
it
one of the threads from the single chain the right hand, knot eight threads on to
hold
;
in
with the
left
take
up
96
the other
it
in
the right
hand,
knot
eight
on
to
it
with
threads.
the
left,
make
the
two Solothread
it
mon's knots
with
those eight
Take
fourth
in the
for
to
it
with the
left.
Repeat
it
three
more rows;
in
the
left
then
make
these four
this
and do the
Take four
next
to it;
of these
then
then take
the remaining
it
;
threads
make another
i;nedallion; then
then take four threads of these, and four of the second medallion,
it
in
threads on to
take these
it
with the
same
eight threads
chain.
it
beginning, hold
in the right
;
threads over
it
more rows
;
threads of these,
make
chain
hold
the
the
first
in
the right
loosen
fifth
in the
right hand,
twice on to
with the
left.
The remainder
the
engraving,
as
is
almost
all
repetition of
is
No. 16.
37
the Insertion, only reversing the order of working
off the threads
,
;
see
No. 16.
(Threads for this Pattern two yards long).
Pin on the threads in the usual way to the cushion, and to make
the Picot heading.
together, then pin
Take two
them on
them evenly
and end
it
to the
first line,
Repeat
to the
Then
loosen the
first
line
in
on
with the
left;
then
make three rows of Solomon's Then loosen the second line, hold it
it
the
right
thread twice on to
eight
with the
left
take the
first
chain
;
* take the
make
knots
to the engraving.
Take
five
the
it
in the right
hand, knot
twelve
with the
threads on
with the
left
left
take
the last
of these
it
threads, hold
right
;
in
the
make five
Leave
in the
the
first
with the
left.
Repeat
for
leaf.
Take
left
hand.
Repeat
for
three
more rows.
;
Repeat from *
hold
it
to
end
of
cushion
Take up
in
the
right
hand,
38
knot
knot
the
six threads six threads
on on
to
it
with the
left
first
thread,
in the
it
same way.
Take up
the
first
thread of
it
first leaf,
;
hold
in the left
with
the right
do the same.
Then take
the
first
first
leader at the
side,
hold
it
in the right
to
it
Then under
the
knot with four threads, take the fourth thread of the second
hold
it
in the right
it
with the
left,
:
take
hold
it
in the right
hand
do the
same.
Then
hold
with
those
sixteen threads
make
fifteen
more Soloat
it
the
side,
it
in the right
first
with
leader,
it
in the left
with the
take
in
;
the
left
seven threads on to
threads,
single
take the
first
two of these
make
;
make
;
five
chain
take the
it
in the left
in the right
hand,
knot
five
threads on to
with the
left.
Then
the engraving.
Take up the
on
of these threads
hold
it
to
it
with the
left,
the
left
Repeat
from * to
hold
it
Then loosen
in the
each thread on
with the
left.
Then
knots.
Repeat
to end.
Miss two threads, take the next four threads make two Solomon's
39
knots.
Repeat
to end.
line,
hold
it
in the right
with the
left.
To Make
six single chain
the
first
make
make two
the second
right.
single
chain with
left
the next
take up
in the
with the
threads, make five Repeat for another row. Take up eight four chain with the next, and chain with the last two of them; make first of these eight threads two chain with the next take up the
;
threads on to it with the left. hold it in the right hand, knot seven of those threads make Repeat for another row. Then with twelve Then take up the engraving. nine Solomon's knots according to threads on to seven knot hand; right the first thread; hold it in the Repeat for another row. Take the last thread it with the left. on to it with the right. hold it in the left hand; knot seven threads from the other side, Repeat for another row. Then take the leader
and knot
threads,
it
the
first
of these
six
make
;
do
;
the
threads
thread
and
make
same
three chain
do the same
to the next
;
to the following
two threads
then
make
;
this
forms a diamond.
to
Repeat
from * until
the
40
No.
(MATERIALS. A weightedCushion
or
17.
German
pins,
with
silk.)
The
lace
is
made by knotting
firmly,
and
to
it,
When
left
is
the
leaf
is
worked from
is
leader
is
held in the
the leader
worked from
left to right,
them on
INSTRU-CTIONS.
Fasten the threads on as follows
thread under the
first line,
:
Pass
the
two ends
of_
each
pointing them
in a
up, then
Then put
pin between
hold
left
in the right
with the
first
hand.
open work
Take
the
the right
and knot the fourth thread three times over them with Then take two threads from so on to the end. hand
;
each, hold
three in the
left
right
hand.
Then loosen
it
in
To make
the
left
leaf:
Take
hand
as leader,
No. 17.
41
with the right hand, always keeping the leader at the top and
threads
the
left
;
underneath.
Then
the
eighth
again, hold
to
it
it
in
the
with the
right
the
made
:
in the
for the
second
the
left
it
and third
right
leaf.
Fourth leaf
leader,
hand
as
to
it
with the
hand.
in the
Then
same way;
fifth line
second
line of
as the]
it.
first,
then
take the
to
take eight
threads, hold
leaf
the eighth
first
one
in
in
the
left
hand
as leader,
same
as the
one
the
insertion.
When
make
this leaf
is
hand and
hand
a second leaf.
Third
leaf:
the right
Fourth
leaf:
When
this leaf
leader twice on to
of the
scollop
is
the
leader
in the
The remainder
made
same way,
as
may
From
Editorial page,
LACE MAKING.
ANEW
INDUSTRY
NEW
It is
YORK, NOV.
13, 1S7T.
an important thing to introducce a genteel industry one that would have the advantages of giving occupation, and at the same time some little remuneration. There are very few of them that, for instance, the daughter of a tolerably genteel American family can turn a hand to. A man does not care to see a square bundle come from the merchant tailor's, and very few American families, would like to see an armful of pantaloons or of coats or vests taken out of the house en route to " the shop." And yet many so-called genteel families ought to have something to turn a hand to. Years ago, a writer in the Atlantic Monthly, had an article headed, " A Plea for the Afternoon," which was in favor of giving occupation to men advanced in life. He might now give us a plea for the forenoon, and for the young and old. I believe the hundred and one genteel industries of fFrance, caused the stockings and crocks to be filled with napoleons that turned out in such abundance to rid the polite nation of the presence of the sturdy and persistant Prussian. The titled ladies in Ireland have taught girls the art of lace-making, and you may go into the little shop of the Quaker Carr in Dublin, to find hand made lace, richly yellow, which was made by the girls of Lismore and Cappoquin, in Waterford County. It was a great boon to those girls to place that " bobbin " art at their fingers" points. The Children's Aid Society did and do a great educational service in giving plants to the scholars of their schools. At a given time they bring the plants back, and rewards of merit for the care of the plants, as one or the other may have succeeded, are given to the children. All these incentives and teachings are good. I have before me a little lace-book issued by Barbour Brothers, 134 Church Street, New York, and 153 Franklin street, Boston, and 119 Pine Street, San Francisco. It has forty-one pages and is illustrated, and has descriptive letterpress to enable one to make "Macramc Lace." In the preface we are told that the manufacture of this lace is a renewal of a pleasant employment, well known in the sixteenth century, and that now it Is amusing the ladles of the European Courts. The Messrs. Barbour claim the "honor and the privilege" of introducing it to American laches. Inasmuch as they issue this tasty little volume for free distribution, " with their compliments to the ladies of America," surely they may be allowed the honor and glory of the expenditure, which must have been considerable. But I might as well stop. No writing of mine could take the place of the volume, and I will simply suggest to my fair reader that she had better send a note to Messrs. Barbour Brothers, requesting a copy of the "Imperial Lace Book." The generous gentlemen who publish this volume do not even suggest that those wishing it need take the precaution of sendiijg stamps for return postage. Certainly, this offering at the shrine of the beautiful and the useful, as knotted lace is, is an elegant as well as a
gene.'ous one.
S. J.
A.
BARBOUR BROTHERS,
134
CKvircJi Street,
NEW
MANUFACTURERS OF
Macrame Lace Threads
Shoe Threads,
in all
YORK.
Wax
Glove Threads.
Machine Threads,
Bookbinder's Threads,
Gilling Threads,
Seine Threads,
Sail
Twine.
Linen Yarns.
Muirny
M;UTIK, Printer,
IS
StiPtt, N. Y.
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